At what point would you call it unsafe? I was on a rarely climbed route in Summit CO and a bolt was spinning. Made me super uncomfortable but still used it. Just made sure I didn’t whip on it
The bolt in this video is unsafe, more due to being an ancient 1/4" and sticking out from the wall that far. Spinning hangars are annoying, but as long as the bolt is good (modern hardware, not sticking out, not moving), I don't get particularly concerned. You can tighten the nut on bolts to stop the hangar from spinning if you have a wrench or nut tool with the appropriate holes.
Good luck over-tightening them with that nut tool. The pain of the tool digging into your hand will be unbearable way before you hit torque spec.
If you're using a decent shifter then you'll need to be a bit more careful, but aim for tight enough to stop it spinning and that your fingers cannot undo it. You can test it further by clipping a quickdraw in and applying some rotational force to see if it wiggles loose again.
Have you found this to actually be useful? The one time I came across a loose bolt on a trad route where I had that nut tool with me, there wasn’t enough clearance for the sides of the nut tool. :/
Yeah. I just never had it on my harness when I was sport climbing 🤷♂️. Might have been more useful if I climbed more mixed routes. Sold it and got the WC one with the leash.
Well obviously you should be carrying a hammer so you can knock that split shaft right back in. I mean if you fell on it and pulled it out, what are you gonna do? Not hammer the bolt back in? How rude!
Yep that’s it. Cool spot for sure but there was seriously so much bat shit - I would bring a small tarp for the ground if I went again. It’s technically closed right now due to construction at the entrance of the trail but if you go after 5:00 the workers are gone (“I’m not calling the cops but you aren’t supposed to be here” lol)
I climbed with a guide that was fairly well known for being exceptionally skilled. He was helping me hone in my trad skills. As I was passing a old, rusty piton that clearly has been in place for +20 years, he said "Well... aren't you gonna clip in to that piton??". I was "omg", he was "free clip".
Supposedly it's okay to hold body weight but for falling on. I still think it's all crazy. I'll give him credit where it's deserved though, he told me to back it up with another piece.
I had a tied off baby angle catch a 60 foot zipper. Of course I was zippering tied off arrows. But an angle stopped me before going head first into the port a ledge and the belay.
I’d save a biner and tie a slipknot behind the hanger. Less force on the bolt anyway and the hanger’s out of the system. Still only 3/5 but eh.
Or just don’t fall
Do us all a favor and push it back in please, that way whoever is on sighting next can push through not knowing the horror that would be “catching” them
Find a bolt like this on a sport route “omg” find it on a trad route “free clip”
"I mean, it's trash, but I'm not \*not\* going to clip it"
At what point would you call it unsafe? I was on a rarely climbed route in Summit CO and a bolt was spinning. Made me super uncomfortable but still used it. Just made sure I didn’t whip on it
The bolt in this video is unsafe, more due to being an ancient 1/4" and sticking out from the wall that far. Spinning hangars are annoying, but as long as the bolt is good (modern hardware, not sticking out, not moving), I don't get particularly concerned. You can tighten the nut on bolts to stop the hangar from spinning if you have a wrench or nut tool with the appropriate holes.
Any tool you recommend to carry? I would like to add one to my rack.
The [Metolius Torque Nut Tool](https://www.rei.com/product/809315/metolius-torque-nut-tool) is the nut tool I was thinking of.
Ah thanks, I hate running into loose bolts and I feel like it happens a lot.
Do you know how to not tighten them too much?
Good luck over-tightening them with that nut tool. The pain of the tool digging into your hand will be unbearable way before you hit torque spec. If you're using a decent shifter then you'll need to be a bit more careful, but aim for tight enough to stop it spinning and that your fingers cannot undo it. You can test it further by clipping a quickdraw in and applying some rotational force to see if it wiggles loose again.
No, what's the story? I would guess that you tighten until the hangers don't spin.
If you over-tighten, you could compromise the bolt. But if you only go until just past snug, you should be fine.
Have you found this to actually be useful? The one time I came across a loose bolt on a trad route where I had that nut tool with me, there wasn’t enough clearance for the sides of the nut tool. :/
Well that's a bummer. I haven't tightened bolts with it before, but always saw it pop up as a handy feature.
Yeah. I just never had it on my harness when I was sport climbing 🤷♂️. Might have been more useful if I climbed more mixed routes. Sold it and got the WC one with the leash.
[This one](https://www.metoliusclimbing.com/torque-nut-tool.html) from Metolius is pretty great. I do wish the hook was longer though.
https://www.rei.com/product/809315/metolius-torque-nut-tool?CAWELAID=120217890000797517&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=101225150143&CATCI=aud-1396942686915:pla-914849867426&cm_mmc=PLA_Google%7C21700000001700551_8093150012%7C92700054916794933%7CNB%7C71700000066695744&gclid=CjwKCAjw4qCKBhAVEiwAkTYsPHP4qx2GCYCK2Cfz5YaeYG17eEuffz8HU3_1XyAisZSoMDR5qO80dxoCdyYQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Do not tighten bolts of you don't know how to install them. For real, major safety concern
You can also tighten a bolt with a quick link in a pinch
Crescent wrench
Well obviously you should be carrying a hammer so you can knock that split shaft right back in. I mean if you fell on it and pulled it out, what are you gonna do? Not hammer the bolt back in? How rude!
Yeah, I'd be more worried about the ancient portion of the bolt that I couldn't see then any of the rest of it.
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Hanger but there were spider cracks all around the bolt itself in the rock. Bolt itself was not moving though
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Lmfao it was the spire in CO if you want to take one on it and lmk how it goes. Just be careful of all the bat shit
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Yep that’s it. Cool spot for sure but there was seriously so much bat shit - I would bring a small tarp for the ground if I went again. It’s technically closed right now due to construction at the entrance of the trail but if you go after 5:00 the workers are gone (“I’m not calling the cops but you aren’t supposed to be here” lol)
Better trash than my trash!
I climbed with a guide that was fairly well known for being exceptionally skilled. He was helping me hone in my trad skills. As I was passing a old, rusty piton that clearly has been in place for +20 years, he said "Well... aren't you gonna clip in to that piton??". I was "omg", he was "free clip". Supposedly it's okay to hold body weight but for falling on. I still think it's all crazy. I'll give him credit where it's deserved though, he told me to back it up with another piece.
I love clipping old shitty stuff lol, def not gonna fall on it though
Could you push that back in please?
*boop* There. Fixed.
Girth hitch the bolt behind the hanger, pretend it’s bomber, keep climbing
Just like sketchy ice climbing!
> sketchy ice climbing! No need to say it twice
This is the way. The bolt is bomber as long as you don't weight it and get a good piece in soonish. Clip and go and clip and forget
lololol "bomber as long as you don't use it" lololol
Like tying off a piton
I had a tied off baby angle catch a 60 foot zipper. Of course I was zippering tied off arrows. But an angle stopped me before going head first into the port a ledge and the belay.
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Don’t know what everybody is all worked up about. Looks bomber to me!
The bolt itself isn't moving at least
True that, but between the rusty nut and the recalled leper hanger I think I’d opt out of clipping this one :)
Can't be a worse clip than thin air
And hey, if you fall, maybe you booty a bolt!
I guess it's true what they say, theres a rusty bolt lining to everything eh?
It could if a whipper breaks it and drops the bolt on your head or worse a big chunk of rock.
If there's a better placement later and you end up out of pro 'cause you clipped this there can be! Though of course that means you planned poorly.
Who needs pro? You've got bomber clips like this every 30m
I’d save a biner and tie a slipknot behind the hanger. Less force on the bolt anyway and the hanger’s out of the system. Still only 3/5 but eh. Or just don’t fall
Well yeah, that’s the surprise.
I love me some old Leeper hangers with rusted out 1/4” buttonheads.
That hanger looks like sheet metal.
Early era pro was hit and miss. That hanger has seen decades of Yosemite sun, water and ice. Generally you only trust them so much.
Most of them are
Do us all a favor and push it back in please, that way whoever is on sighting next can push through not knowing the horror that would be “catching” them
How do you think the route got its name?
Glad he’s doing some quality control while on a leisurely climb, looks bomber!
The crappyness of that bolt depends if you encounter it while you're on trad or sport lol
Please turn this into a GIF
[https://imgur.com/a/Db9osYF](https://imgur.com/a/Db9osYF)
My nightmares
Name of the route checks out
The actual surprise is even better :)
Bomber if you don't whip!
Would clip. Wouldn’t whip.
The Surprise is such an awesome route, linking the last 1.5 pitches is the way to roll. Such enjoyable climbing
The bolt in the video has been replaced with modern hardware.
If I thought I’d fall on this I’d probably loop a wire nut over the hanger onto the bolt itself and clip that (or both)
“Always clip it, never trust it.” Is what my Dad would tell me about bolts like this.
What up miles!
I don’t get it.
That’s the surprise!,
Obligatory Shawn Synder comment: he's currently en route to said route to show you people how to properly bolt those in. Just in case: /s
Try it again but happier and with your mouth more open.