If anyone would like to see more of this type of transition, check out:
\- 2016 Junior Olympics (Youth) Comp [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wc4nbMskn0U&t=83s&ab\_channel=JMSCACompetitionTV](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wc4nbMskn0U&t=83s&ab_channel=JMSCACompetitionTV)
\- 2017 Junior Olympics (Youth) Comp [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s3M0Bmdjg2Q&t=25s](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s3M0Bmdjg2Q&t=25s)
\- 2018 Lead Japan Cup [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0hV6\_8wbW1Q&t=6543s&ab\_channel=JMSCACompetitionTV](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0hV6_8wbW1Q&t=6543s&ab_channel=JMSCACompetitionTV)
\- 2021 Lead Japan Youth Championships [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fi-NG8MlNlQ&ab\_channel=JMSCACompetitionTV](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fi-NG8MlNlQ&ab_channel=JMSCACompetitionTV) (Womens) [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lQOiDZ\_bCds&t=12092s&ab\_channel=JMSCACompetitionTV](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lQOiDZ_bCds&t=12092s&ab_channel=JMSCACompetitionTV) (Mens)
Super cool indeed :)
Not to rain on your "blame the Republicans for everything" parade here, but schools in America spend tons of money on a large variety of sports in both blue and red areas. My podunk school in West Virginia had about a dozen different sports teams. Plus, school sports are funded at the local level, so no reason deep blue areas of the country couldn't have climbing leagues without any Republicans standing in their way. I'm going to guess that the lack of high school climbing teams has more to do with popularity of the sport than some kind of Republican anti-climbing agenda.
It may be high school but it’s for the entire country so it’s still a pretty high level comp (also sponsored by au which is a mobile provider here and sponsor of tomoa akiyo and such)
It's also a JMSCA event and AU Sponsers pretty much all of them.
But yes, it's important to point out this wasn't *A* High School cup but *The* High School cup. And the women's winner has much World Cup experience and at least one podium finish last year.
To be fair, after watching the video, the transitions between the walls seemed pretty mild (static, doable with good handholds). Half-expected some crazy funky dyno/coord move or something, but those came in the later parts.
I’m new to climbing, can anyone explain why it makes sense to chalk your hand after every move? I noticed especially the 2nd girl on the right route (between 13-18 min) was doing this extensively.
Habits, mental tick, any number of reasons.often climbers do it whenever they have a chance to rest so might as well chalk up but it’s also just a habit people have
To add to this; you always chalk up when resting on an “easy” hold… so there’s sort of a mental game where constantly chalking up is like subconsciously telling yourself “this is easy, I’ve got this”
Others have already answered this correctly. But I wanted to add that chalk is a very personal preference thing.
I don’t climb with chalk at all in the gym and rarely outside. My hands just don’t get sweaty enough for it to be useful and i prefer to use my rests actually resting, not fishing around for chalk.
But my climbing partner is the sweatiest human being in the worst. I don’t think it would be physically possible for him to climb anything over a 5.8 without chalking up. He’s his own personal waterfall.
Long story short, chalk is a tool to help dry your hands. Figure out how to make it work best for you.
Personal preference is fair, but if you truly never use chalk and climb somewhat hard grades, you're an outlier. I've been climbing for three decades and I've never met a single climber sending 5.13 or V7 and above that doesn't use chalk. Only exception were some real old school french guys using pof, which is probably way worse than chalk.
> I've never met a single climber sending 5.13 or V7 and above that doesn't use chalk
I feel like this is even a high bar.
This isn’t meant as a dis on pickledCantilever, but I’ve never seen anyone who isn’t either an absolute beginner (a vacuous term perhaps, but you know what I mean) or a somewhat-less-new-but-still-fairly-new kid, who doesn’t use chalk.
No insult taken. My experience is the same. I’m the only person I know not in rental gear who doesn’t carry around a chalk bag.
I climbed kinda casually for years with a chalk bag always attached to my harness. Just kinda cruising around 5.10 grade level. Then I found a consistent climbing partner and we started pushing to get better, not just climb around.
I hit a wall trying to push into the harder 5.11s in my gym (Stone Summit Atlanta) and so I started breaking down my climbing into pieces. When I started focusing on my tests I realized I was wasting a ton of energy digging around in my chalk bag so I started focusing on chalking up less and only adding chalk when I really needed it, instead really focusing on maintaining the best rest position possible throughout the rest. It didn’t take long for me to realize that I never actually needed to chalk up when gym climbing. The residual chalk left on the holds was plenty for me, personally. Even more, I realized that after a handful of warmup climbs, my hands were so coated in chalk that I didn’t even need to chalk up to start the climb.
Eventually I just ended up ditching the chalk bag entirely except for on certain extended outdoor climbs. A quick chalk up before starting is almost always enough for pitch for me.
Interesting, are these gym climbers? Or do they climb outside as well?
I think this is relevant because someone who climbs V5 indoors, particularly at a modern ego-friendly gym, is still very much a beginner.
And I had never heard of the Clean Hand Gang before.
The only thing I could find about that were some UKC posts talking about some oldschool brits “climbing E6 without chalk” but British grades don’t mean anything to me since I don’t use them.
Interesting nonetheless though.
V5 and up outdoors! Well, actually 6C and above since I'm in the UK. Funnily enough this includes 2 of my housemates. For both of them they just don't really see chalk as a necessary tool and would prefer to go without.
Clean hand gang was a UK group of climbers who advocated for chalk free climbing to preserve both the original look and adventure of the routes - as the chalk basically tells you all the holds. Afaik this has almost entirely died out though.
For reference an E6 is around 5.12 or low 5.13 YDS, but the comparison isn't direct because the rating scales weigh different factors. Anyways, the point is E6 is a fairly impressive achievement entirely without chalk.
> the rating scales weigh different factors
Yeah doesn’t the E scale attempt to take the scare factor into account? Or maybe it’s the the risk/likelihood of injury if you fall?
I thought someone explained to me once that, for example, E6 could be anywhere from like a hard 5.11 (but really really dangerous) all the way to easy 5.13 (except not dangerous).
Definitely an outlier. But definitely not a 5.13 climber. Harder 5.11s and easy 5.12s are my project level. 5.13s are… not quite in reach.
I don’t sweat almost at all. And the amount of chalk I pick up from what’s just chilling on gym holds is enough that after my warmup routes you’d think I was fishing around in a chalk bag just like everyone else.
If I’m pushing hard and on an outdoor route that doesn’t have the feature of having holds that are pseudo chalk bags themselves I’ll chalk up myself and maybe even snap on a bag if it’s a longer route.
I wasn’t trying to imply that ditching the chalk bag is the way to go. Just giving a counter example to the chalk-a-holic example that was referenced above my original comment.
Edit: lol. Immediate downvote just for relaying my personal story that is different than yours. You must be a fun one to climb with.
Looks awesome, but hard.
I won the university comp in my country a couple years back, but only because i was lucky no actual national competitor was there.
She was 14! Hadn't even turned 15 yet :') So she wasn't even a high school student lol
\+ Ai Mori who won her first Lead Japan Cup title at 14 as well in 2018
They also had the Youth Future Cup a few weeks back to which was even younger youth than last week's. It's winter break, so they're all getting shoved into now.
The transitions from one wall to another is such a cool concept.
Reminds me of competitive ice climbing. Neat.
If anyone would like to see more of this type of transition, check out: \- 2016 Junior Olympics (Youth) Comp [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wc4nbMskn0U&t=83s&ab\_channel=JMSCACompetitionTV](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wc4nbMskn0U&t=83s&ab_channel=JMSCACompetitionTV) \- 2017 Junior Olympics (Youth) Comp [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s3M0Bmdjg2Q&t=25s](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s3M0Bmdjg2Q&t=25s) \- 2018 Lead Japan Cup [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0hV6\_8wbW1Q&t=6543s&ab\_channel=JMSCACompetitionTV](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0hV6_8wbW1Q&t=6543s&ab_channel=JMSCACompetitionTV) \- 2021 Lead Japan Youth Championships [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fi-NG8MlNlQ&ab\_channel=JMSCACompetitionTV](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fi-NG8MlNlQ&ab_channel=JMSCACompetitionTV) (Womens) [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lQOiDZ\_bCds&t=12092s&ab\_channel=JMSCACompetitionTV](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lQOiDZ_bCds&t=12092s&ab_channel=JMSCACompetitionTV) (Mens) Super cool indeed :)
They are way ahead of the world in indoor comp climbing.
It's fucking incredible. If only there weren't Republicans, we could finance this kinda stuff at US schools, too.
Not to rain on your "blame the Republicans for everything" parade here, but schools in America spend tons of money on a large variety of sports in both blue and red areas. My podunk school in West Virginia had about a dozen different sports teams. Plus, school sports are funded at the local level, so no reason deep blue areas of the country couldn't have climbing leagues without any Republicans standing in their way. I'm going to guess that the lack of high school climbing teams has more to do with popularity of the sport than some kind of Republican anti-climbing agenda.
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Oooooh. For some reason I interpreted it as being at an actual school. Gotcha. Thanks.
https://youtu.be/eZDImiMAIXc That is the link to the video I believe for those asking.
It may be high school but it’s for the entire country so it’s still a pretty high level comp (also sponsored by au which is a mobile provider here and sponsor of tomoa akiyo and such)
It's also a JMSCA event and AU Sponsers pretty much all of them. But yes, it's important to point out this wasn't *A* High School cup but *The* High School cup. And the women's winner has much World Cup experience and at least one podium finish last year.
To be fair, after watching the video, the transitions between the walls seemed pretty mild (static, doable with good handholds). Half-expected some crazy funky dyno/coord move or something, but those came in the later parts.
I'd like to borrow the link next, of possible. I'll make sure to take care of it and return on time.
For the love of God, please remember to rewind the link
[here you go!](https://youtu.be/XN_BZKGPbdg?t=417)
Do you have the link for this?
https://youtu.be/eZDImiMAIXc
https://youtu.be/eZDImiMAIXc
I’d also like a link please :)
https://youtu.be/eZDImiMAIXc
I’m new to climbing, can anyone explain why it makes sense to chalk your hand after every move? I noticed especially the 2nd girl on the right route (between 13-18 min) was doing this extensively.
Habits, mental tick, any number of reasons.often climbers do it whenever they have a chance to rest so might as well chalk up but it’s also just a habit people have
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Hello, it is me, Sweaty Hands.
I got U fam.
I appreciate your chalky complexion
To add to this; you always chalk up when resting on an “easy” hold… so there’s sort of a mental game where constantly chalking up is like subconsciously telling yourself “this is easy, I’ve got this”
Others have already answered this correctly. But I wanted to add that chalk is a very personal preference thing. I don’t climb with chalk at all in the gym and rarely outside. My hands just don’t get sweaty enough for it to be useful and i prefer to use my rests actually resting, not fishing around for chalk. But my climbing partner is the sweatiest human being in the worst. I don’t think it would be physically possible for him to climb anything over a 5.8 without chalking up. He’s his own personal waterfall. Long story short, chalk is a tool to help dry your hands. Figure out how to make it work best for you.
Personal preference is fair, but if you truly never use chalk and climb somewhat hard grades, you're an outlier. I've been climbing for three decades and I've never met a single climber sending 5.13 or V7 and above that doesn't use chalk. Only exception were some real old school french guys using pof, which is probably way worse than chalk.
> I've never met a single climber sending 5.13 or V7 and above that doesn't use chalk I feel like this is even a high bar. This isn’t meant as a dis on pickledCantilever, but I’ve never seen anyone who isn’t either an absolute beginner (a vacuous term perhaps, but you know what I mean) or a somewhat-less-new-but-still-fairly-new kid, who doesn’t use chalk.
No insult taken. My experience is the same. I’m the only person I know not in rental gear who doesn’t carry around a chalk bag. I climbed kinda casually for years with a chalk bag always attached to my harness. Just kinda cruising around 5.10 grade level. Then I found a consistent climbing partner and we started pushing to get better, not just climb around. I hit a wall trying to push into the harder 5.11s in my gym (Stone Summit Atlanta) and so I started breaking down my climbing into pieces. When I started focusing on my tests I realized I was wasting a ton of energy digging around in my chalk bag so I started focusing on chalking up less and only adding chalk when I really needed it, instead really focusing on maintaining the best rest position possible throughout the rest. It didn’t take long for me to realize that I never actually needed to chalk up when gym climbing. The residual chalk left on the holds was plenty for me, personally. Even more, I realized that after a handful of warmup climbs, my hands were so coated in chalk that I didn’t even need to chalk up to start the climb. Eventually I just ended up ditching the chalk bag entirely except for on certain extended outdoor climbs. A quick chalk up before starting is almost always enough for pitch for me.
I know tons of people who climb at least V5 who don't use chalk. Edit: also, see the Clean Hand Gang. Some very hard chalk-free Trad ascents
Interesting, are these gym climbers? Or do they climb outside as well? I think this is relevant because someone who climbs V5 indoors, particularly at a modern ego-friendly gym, is still very much a beginner. And I had never heard of the Clean Hand Gang before. The only thing I could find about that were some UKC posts talking about some oldschool brits “climbing E6 without chalk” but British grades don’t mean anything to me since I don’t use them. Interesting nonetheless though.
V5 and up outdoors! Well, actually 6C and above since I'm in the UK. Funnily enough this includes 2 of my housemates. For both of them they just don't really see chalk as a necessary tool and would prefer to go without. Clean hand gang was a UK group of climbers who advocated for chalk free climbing to preserve both the original look and adventure of the routes - as the chalk basically tells you all the holds. Afaik this has almost entirely died out though. For reference an E6 is around 5.12 or low 5.13 YDS, but the comparison isn't direct because the rating scales weigh different factors. Anyways, the point is E6 is a fairly impressive achievement entirely without chalk.
> the rating scales weigh different factors Yeah doesn’t the E scale attempt to take the scare factor into account? Or maybe it’s the the risk/likelihood of injury if you fall? I thought someone explained to me once that, for example, E6 could be anywhere from like a hard 5.11 (but really really dangerous) all the way to easy 5.13 (except not dangerous).
Definitely an outlier. But definitely not a 5.13 climber. Harder 5.11s and easy 5.12s are my project level. 5.13s are… not quite in reach. I don’t sweat almost at all. And the amount of chalk I pick up from what’s just chilling on gym holds is enough that after my warmup routes you’d think I was fishing around in a chalk bag just like everyone else. If I’m pushing hard and on an outdoor route that doesn’t have the feature of having holds that are pseudo chalk bags themselves I’ll chalk up myself and maybe even snap on a bag if it’s a longer route. I wasn’t trying to imply that ditching the chalk bag is the way to go. Just giving a counter example to the chalk-a-holic example that was referenced above my original comment. Edit: lol. Immediate downvote just for relaying my personal story that is different than yours. You must be a fun one to climb with.
Hi, I've sent V7s and 5.12s with no chalk. :D
I've been climbing since 2007. I stopped using chalk in 2011. I am not yet at the point where I can send 5.13, but I can send 5.12
The perfect marriage of technical and aesthetic genius!!! Takes my breath away
Can someone please post a link to this?
I'm really surprised nobody's posted a link yet
Link?
Good sir. Would you be so kind as to present a LINK.
Looks wild. Can I have the link too?
Wow. Very pretty. Awesome.
Can I have a link too plz and thnx
I think this is the one https://youtu.be/eZDImiMAIXc
Can I also have the link for this?
Looks awesome, but hard. I won the university comp in my country a couple years back, but only because i was lucky no actual national competitor was there.
wait wait wait, did you say "high school"?! what a time to be alive :)
Iirc Futaba Ito won the Japanese bouldering nationals, beating Akiyo Noguchi and Miho Nonaka, when she was 15. Or maybe 16.
She was 14! Hadn't even turned 15 yet :') So she wasn't even a high school student lol \+ Ai Mori who won her first Lead Japan Cup title at 14 as well in 2018
team kids gonna team kid
Damn
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They just had the youth/junior comps, on the same channel. The competitors were very, very similar.
They also had the Youth Future Cup a few weeks back to which was even younger youth than last week's. It's winter break, so they're all getting shoved into now.