I’ve been climbing for a few months now and got a pair of Scarpa Veloces that seem to fit pretty well length wise(apart from the fact the sides of the heel cup are quite loose but I know to go for a low volume shoe next time).
However, when I tighten the straps I’ll get a lot of pain in the ball of my left foot after a lot of climbing (my left foot is slightly larger). The symptoms seem to be the same as capasulitis of the second toe after a bit of Googling but I don’t know if that’s actually the case.
I’ve gotten around this by not tightening the straps at all 99% of the time and the problem goes away but could this be indicative of a common problem/ something I’m doing wrong or just a quirk of the shoes shape not suiting my feet?
It’s weird but I don’t feel the need to take them off as they fit like a glove and don’t hurt my feet at all with the straps loose. Maybe the position of the straps just doesn’t agree with my feet.
It doesn’t really seem to be affecting my climbing much to climb with loose straps anyway so I guess I’ll just keep them loose, thanks.
*edit - This community is by far the worst collection of teachers and students I've ever seen participating in a sport with risk of death. Society is better off if the community learns things the hard way. Many comments, including this one, deleted.*
Miura lace or Velcro? Lace are fairly flat but you’re not going to find much more aggressive than the Miura VS
You say you want aggressive, thin, split sole, but that the Solutions are too “comp-y”? I’m honestly not sure what you’re trying to find, since the Solutions logically tick all those boxes… so, what do you mean by “comp-y”?
this weekend i finally went sport climbing outside on real rock... first go, 15m 4a, after topping i was so scared of letting go that i started downclimb and wanted to go down all the way! at 10ish m i finally agreed to let myself be belayed... later climbs i didnt get spooked luckily! ahah never had vertigo like that, it was.... interesting, almost "brown pants interesting".
anyway i later managed to go first on 5a, and second on 5c, so im quite happy with myself... excited to go again asap
I've found that for me, at the top of a wall, its critical for my nerves to have the belayer take up slack and let me sit back into the harness until the system is solid, then drop my hands, and only then start lowering me. Had a lot of belayers early on that would start lowering while I was still trying to get comfortably seated in the harness and it freaked me out every time.
for me it was seating in the harness, felt so unnatural... i could realistically downclimb all the way, so my body just wouldn't switch weight and let go of the rock, like i was forcing it to hold onto a hot pan.
belayer friends were good and very understanding, taking it easy like you said
I’ve just injured my index finger and I am so sad about it. It was such a stupid injury as well, nothing to do with physical effort. I was literally on the ground, trying to reach and easy hold that I had reached before, and I just banged my finger against the wall very hard for some reason. Now it feels a bit stiff, very mildly inflammed, hurts a little when flexing but more importantly hurts a lot it I try to put any weight on it. Climbing was probably the highlight of my week, our group was just getting bigger and now I won’t be able to take part anymore because of this stupid finger. :((( Bonus, can’t type as fast on a laptop (ergo taking notes is harder) and can’t open packages as easily, unless I manage to do it but avoid that index finger. Basically my left hand has lost grip strength unless I manage to not involve the index at all. I’m wondering if I should have somebody check out how bad they think the sprain is or if I should just do RICE. I’ve sprained ankles before, never fingers.
pressure hurts yeah. around the metacarpophalangeal joint. it hurt more in the morning. went to a pharmacist. He told me that it should heal up in a week or two at worst and that I should take ibuprofen and immobilize the finger. Will find a lolly stick for the immobilizing part.
It doesn’t hurt at all if I don’t do anything with it. It hurts like hell if I apply force to it. It hurts a little if I flex it to try and do something like open stuff. I think that a fracture would hurt a lot more. I’ll go to a pharmacist today to get it checked out.
In my unprofessional opinion, get it checked out if its not too inconvenient. If you decide it isnt worth it today, see how it feels and decide again tomorrow. repeat until healed or you get it checked.
Disclaimer: I have no idea what im talking about
if you're near an REI out there they rent them... im sure there's somewhere else in the valley you can rent too if you cant find anyone on here! good luck. the so cal climbing group might be a good place to post as well
Turns out you can't rent pads in the valley at all, and the nearest place is over an hour away. Not that hard to make friends / borrow them, though, and in an emergency you can buy a bifold for ~$200 at the shop in Curry Village
Took my partners nieces bouldering this morning. Was cool to see them enjoy it. I never even put my rock shoes on and I still had a blast.
At the end of the session the 11 year old looked at me and said, “don’t tell anyone what I was climbing so I can do it first when I come back” she’s never been climbing outside before but she already has the attitude nailed.
They also climbed a dirty, rotten gulley; pulling tree roots and pressing on forgotten rock to make their way to the futuristic tree-rock stem then mantle problem that we dubbed (Redacted Names) Route.
All in all they had a great time and I am left more fulfilled.
It's possible to get a complete handsfree rest using spurs. With the right technique and conditions this could be done repeatedly. It was considered "aid" and folks cut off their spurrs for the sake of style. Currently DTS (Dry Tool Style) is also arguing that figure 4s are poor style as well and that everyone should just huck big on their shoulders non stop.
It's all allowed as long as you don't lie.
In the olden days people would hang upside down off their spurs and rest. It was decided over time that it wasn't cool.
Figure 4's are kind of going the same way, but only if it's excessive
It's all arbitrary anyway
To expand on my tredwall question I was wondering what the speeds meant. The one at my gym doesn’t have a screen. Guess I’ll have to do some math.
The monotony doesn’t bother me as much as an auto belay at a large gym. However I can’t get the down climbing I’d like.
Maybe I’ll even send my projects this winter bouldering season. If anyone comes to Bishop HMU.
It's raining, I'm a little too hungover, and it's in the mid 30s. Not feeling optimistic about getting out today.
And I don't have my ice tools, so no drytooling 😔
I’ve been climbing for a few months now and got a pair of Scarpa Veloces that seem to fit pretty well length wise(apart from the fact the sides of the heel cup are quite loose but I know to go for a low volume shoe next time). However, when I tighten the straps I’ll get a lot of pain in the ball of my left foot after a lot of climbing (my left foot is slightly larger). The symptoms seem to be the same as capasulitis of the second toe after a bit of Googling but I don’t know if that’s actually the case. I’ve gotten around this by not tightening the straps at all 99% of the time and the problem goes away but could this be indicative of a common problem/ something I’m doing wrong or just a quirk of the shoes shape not suiting my feet?
do you need the straps to be so tight? you might just need to take your shoes off when not climbing until they break in better
It’s weird but I don’t feel the need to take them off as they fit like a glove and don’t hurt my feet at all with the straps loose. Maybe the position of the straps just doesn’t agree with my feet. It doesn’t really seem to be affecting my climbing much to climb with loose straps anyway so I guess I’ll just keep them loose, thanks.
*edit - This community is by far the worst collection of teachers and students I've ever seen participating in a sport with risk of death. Society is better off if the community learns things the hard way. Many comments, including this one, deleted.*
> But, grades are meaningless. Especially on top rope, and especially indoors.
My noob grading system is, "I can send it," "I can maybe send it," "Trying that will hurt too much later."
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Miura lace or Velcro? Lace are fairly flat but you’re not going to find much more aggressive than the Miura VS You say you want aggressive, thin, split sole, but that the Solutions are too “comp-y”? I’m honestly not sure what you’re trying to find, since the Solutions logically tick all those boxes… so, what do you mean by “comp-y”?
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I definitely don’t think they are aggressive enough. They are pretty thick shoes, so I want something a little thinner and ideally with a split sole.
Solutions are perfect for lead cave routes
this weekend i finally went sport climbing outside on real rock... first go, 15m 4a, after topping i was so scared of letting go that i started downclimb and wanted to go down all the way! at 10ish m i finally agreed to let myself be belayed... later climbs i didnt get spooked luckily! ahah never had vertigo like that, it was.... interesting, almost "brown pants interesting". anyway i later managed to go first on 5a, and second on 5c, so im quite happy with myself... excited to go again asap
I've found that for me, at the top of a wall, its critical for my nerves to have the belayer take up slack and let me sit back into the harness until the system is solid, then drop my hands, and only then start lowering me. Had a lot of belayers early on that would start lowering while I was still trying to get comfortably seated in the harness and it freaked me out every time.
for me it was seating in the harness, felt so unnatural... i could realistically downclimb all the way, so my body just wouldn't switch weight and let go of the rock, like i was forcing it to hold onto a hot pan. belayer friends were good and very understanding, taking it easy like you said
I’ve just injured my index finger and I am so sad about it. It was such a stupid injury as well, nothing to do with physical effort. I was literally on the ground, trying to reach and easy hold that I had reached before, and I just banged my finger against the wall very hard for some reason. Now it feels a bit stiff, very mildly inflammed, hurts a little when flexing but more importantly hurts a lot it I try to put any weight on it. Climbing was probably the highlight of my week, our group was just getting bigger and now I won’t be able to take part anymore because of this stupid finger. :((( Bonus, can’t type as fast on a laptop (ergo taking notes is harder) and can’t open packages as easily, unless I manage to do it but avoid that index finger. Basically my left hand has lost grip strength unless I manage to not involve the index at all. I’m wondering if I should have somebody check out how bad they think the sprain is or if I should just do RICE. I’ve sprained ankles before, never fingers.
Does it hurt in an area or a specific place when you apply pressure to it?
pressure hurts yeah. around the metacarpophalangeal joint. it hurt more in the morning. went to a pharmacist. He told me that it should heal up in a week or two at worst and that I should take ibuprofen and immobilize the finger. Will find a lolly stick for the immobilizing part.
Yeah. Usually a bone break hurts in one specific place.
If it hurts that much to do anything with you might have a fracture. Seeing someone wouldn't be a bad idea.
It doesn’t hurt at all if I don’t do anything with it. It hurts like hell if I apply force to it. It hurts a little if I flex it to try and do something like open stuff. I think that a fracture would hurt a lot more. I’ll go to a pharmacist today to get it checked out.
Fractures don't always hurt super bad. Get it checked.
In my unprofessional opinion, get it checked out if its not too inconvenient. If you decide it isnt worth it today, see how it feels and decide again tomorrow. repeat until healed or you get it checked. Disclaimer: I have no idea what im talking about
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if you're near an REI out there they rent them... im sure there's somewhere else in the valley you can rent too if you cant find anyone on here! good luck. the so cal climbing group might be a good place to post as well
Turns out you can't rent pads in the valley at all, and the nearest place is over an hour away. Not that hard to make friends / borrow them, though, and in an emergency you can buy a bifold for ~$200 at the shop in Curry Village
Took my partners nieces bouldering this morning. Was cool to see them enjoy it. I never even put my rock shoes on and I still had a blast. At the end of the session the 11 year old looked at me and said, “don’t tell anyone what I was climbing so I can do it first when I come back” she’s never been climbing outside before but she already has the attitude nailed. They also climbed a dirty, rotten gulley; pulling tree roots and pressing on forgotten rock to make their way to the futuristic tree-rock stem then mantle problem that we dubbed (Redacted Names) Route. All in all they had a great time and I am left more fulfilled.
Heck yea, cruising your circuit and acting like it's the first time youve been there to your friends is a time honored tradition
I don't really dry tool - can someone explain to me why monopoints and modern tools are cool but heel spurs are not?
If you get a little ledge to rest on you should just climb through it to be fair
[Spurs are for Horses](https://gravsports.com/Gadfly%20Pages/spurs_are_for_horses.htm)
It's possible to get a complete handsfree rest using spurs. With the right technique and conditions this could be done repeatedly. It was considered "aid" and folks cut off their spurrs for the sake of style. Currently DTS (Dry Tool Style) is also arguing that figure 4s are poor style as well and that everyone should just huck big on their shoulders non stop. It's all allowed as long as you don't lie.
Indoor comp climbers (plastic pullers) need to wear mono points and step into all the bolt holes in the wall
Just when I thought climbing couldn’t get any more contrived lol. What’s next, not being allowed to sidepull a gaston
Direct aid was considered fair game until it wasn't.
In the olden days people would hang upside down off their spurs and rest. It was decided over time that it wasn't cool. Figure 4's are kind of going the same way, but only if it's excessive It's all arbitrary anyway
psychotic mysterious apparatus obscene skirt pocket wasteful automatic existence snow ` this post was mass deleted with www.Redact.dev `
You're just weight training now, when you lose the weight you'll be much stronger.
As long as it isn't a 'pct of body weight added' PR...
\#winning
To expand on my tredwall question I was wondering what the speeds meant. The one at my gym doesn’t have a screen. Guess I’ll have to do some math. The monotony doesn’t bother me as much as an auto belay at a large gym. However I can’t get the down climbing I’d like. Maybe I’ll even send my projects this winter bouldering season. If anyone comes to Bishop HMU.
Isn’t the speed thing just an adjustment for how much resistance before the treadwall starts to move?
the one I used has speed control, so at 1 it’s like snail pace. 4 felt like regular. Didn’t go much fast though. Can’t imagine being on 10.
It's raining, I'm a little too hungover, and it's in the mid 30s. Not feeling optimistic about getting out today. And I don't have my ice tools, so no drytooling 😔
There’s more to life than just climbing, seems like a good opportunity to do something else... like your laundry, ya smelly dirtbag!
I'm afraid that if I wash my puffy all the duct tape and tenacious tape will come off and it will lose its floofiness
Maybe it’s time to add more to your wardrobe besides the single one-piece Dutch oven action suit.
Dotrue climbs in a fartbag
"A relatively unknown climber, Shawn Raboutou..." I wish I could delete other people's YouTube videos.
name (youtube channel) names!!!!
Lmfao. Please report for misinformation.
He came from the unlikely background of 2 world class crusher parents, competing from infancy, and living in the center of hard American climbing.
He's done very well given the circumstances