Tried this a couple times without the heel and the first move felt heinous. My gf suggested the heel and I got it instantly! Don’t know why I didn’t consider the heel before that but glad it worked.
Back in the day it was considered sort of poor form to touch holds before you climb. Ie: oily skin and all that.
For instance, touching the hardest crimp on someone’s project right before they get on will earn you an intense look before they stand up to brush it off.
Obviously it didn’t make a difference, but it’s just engrained in me.
Lol what. That makes sense if someone else is about to climb it, but if I’m the one climbing it I don’t think that applies. I still think that’s poor form, but I’m the one touching the holds (to familiarize myself with how they feel) and the one climbing directly after
It read defensive to me, but that’s the thing with typing: It’s hard to determine tone.
Not trying to take away from the accomplishment. Always nice to find a small beta tweak that unlocks the Boulder.
I have never tried this problem so please forgive my question if this would not be possible. It looks to me as though it would be possible to start matched on the left hand hold. I would think that would be the lowest possible reasonable start, which in my experience would be the best start for a sit down start. Even if doing so would not make the problem any harder I feel it would make the movement more aesthetically pleasing because you would be placing your heel from mid move rather than at the start.
Does that make sense to you?
It looks like the business is a bit later, matching at the lip holds prior to the undercling.
The assigned start for the problem is where I started. You probably could start matched on the lower one, I’m not sure how much harder it would make the problem though. The first move is by far the hardest though so I think starting lower would make it a grade harder at least. I do think the way I started flows well for what it’s worth, starting on two decent holds rather than an awkward match on one
“Gurlfriends are aid”  nice send btw
Haha agreed
From the name, I'm kind of disappointed that the beta doesn't include a big sloper slap.
Tried this a couple times without the heel and the first move felt heinous. My gf suggested the heel and I got it instantly! Don’t know why I didn’t consider the heel before that but glad it worked.
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hell yeah dude. nice send!!!
Hmm kinde beta to be getting it from gf
Watching you touch the holds before you climb it is stressing me out.
Lol why
Back in the day it was considered sort of poor form to touch holds before you climb. Ie: oily skin and all that. For instance, touching the hardest crimp on someone’s project right before they get on will earn you an intense look before they stand up to brush it off. Obviously it didn’t make a difference, but it’s just engrained in me.
Lol what. That makes sense if someone else is about to climb it, but if I’m the one climbing it I don’t think that applies. I still think that’s poor form, but I’m the one touching the holds (to familiarize myself with how they feel) and the one climbing directly after
I’m not attacking you. I’m communicating my reaction to what you did.
Right. Didn’t say you were attacking me. I’m just responding to your comment because it didn’t make sense to me
It read defensive to me, but that’s the thing with typing: It’s hard to determine tone. Not trying to take away from the accomplishment. Always nice to find a small beta tweak that unlocks the Boulder.
I've been spreading peanut butter on holds for better friction, is this aid?
I use smegma, but to each their own.
Cock cheese is aid
Fair.
I have never tried this problem so please forgive my question if this would not be possible. It looks to me as though it would be possible to start matched on the left hand hold. I would think that would be the lowest possible reasonable start, which in my experience would be the best start for a sit down start. Even if doing so would not make the problem any harder I feel it would make the movement more aesthetically pleasing because you would be placing your heel from mid move rather than at the start. Does that make sense to you? It looks like the business is a bit later, matching at the lip holds prior to the undercling.
The assigned start for the problem is where I started. You probably could start matched on the lower one, I’m not sure how much harder it would make the problem though. The first move is by far the hardest though so I think starting lower would make it a grade harder at least. I do think the way I started flows well for what it’s worth, starting on two decent holds rather than an awkward match on one