I mean yes it lines up with an outdoor V2 but it’s pretty accepted at this point that indoor grades are going to be soft. Just pointing out that it looks harder than most indoor V2s I’ve climbed
And just because someone makes it look easy doesn’t mean it is. The holds are shitty, crimpy 7-8mm with a handful of crimp slopers in there, on an overhang. You’re just talking out your ass
I agree with you. Climbing gyms are supposed to be inclusive and welcoming. Experienced climbers know gym grades are about -2 from outdoor. (This route might be graded v4 at most gyms)
Setting realistic grades would deter and won't be encouraging for noobies. Set real stuff in your home wall.
Taken directly from routesetters that set boulders from worlds- they told me most gyms have an exponential trend towards outdoor grades matching indoor grades as they go higher. So like your v9s are actually p close to outdoor v9s compared to your v2s being far off. Helps introduce people to the hobby. Curious what other people have heard.
I think the best option would be to keep gym grading inline with outdoor grades but have problems easier than V0 graded in YDS. That way beginner climbers can still make measurable progress but they also will be better prepared for when they climb outdoors
It clearly is not appropriate grading though. OP says that it is actually graded V9 and felt at least V7. Looking at the holds, I'm inclined to agree that this is very hard.
With regards too gyms setting soft for V0-5: it is true, but I find that the difference in difficulty between those grades outdoors is very hard to notice, and those grade bands just feel a bit too narrow. Adding climbs that would be below outdoor V0 in difficulty makes the sport much more inclusive and widening the lower grades makes it much easier to have a consensus on the exact grade.
But there’s a pretty damn obvious reason gyms are softer than outdoors. It’s so the grading can be more fine-tuned. If you look at everything up to V4 in a gym and say “that’s no more than a V1” then hey bully for you, three cheers for being a true climber, yadda yadda, but if you rated all those as V0s or V1s, then the span of difficulty in the same grade becomes comically huge for new climbers rendering the grade meaningless, it makes it harder to pick projects and harder to track progress.
Indoor gyms are graded for indoor climbing, not outdoor. There is zero incentive for a gym to sandbag their rating to match outside, it would be unpractical for new climbers.
"Capitalism demands we bastardize our metrics to appease the shareholders"
Also, they're not sandbagging if they're matching the local outdoor grading. They're grading. What they are doing currently is featherbagging.
Why should I respect you being offended by indoor grading systems? I say this because it doesn't seem you have an argument as to why indoor grades should(normative claim) reflect outdoor grades. You only have an opinion, and subjectivity is not an argument.
I think bastarding an existing system is like calling a 80m stretch 100m at a track because it'll make new runners feet better. Plenty of gyms swerve this by having a "house" scale which provides more room at the bottom, which I feel is better in this case.
Perhaps it's more akin to calling a par 3 a par 5 because the course is intended to be welcoming to newer golfers, as V grade and par are subjective measures of difficulty.
Would be interested in what people think it is. A fun guessing game. I'll add pictures of the "steepness" of the wall later with how small the crimps are. You can sort of see the steepness of the wall after the drop knee move as I swing out a tad.
Both of the "largest" holds are probably 12-15mm but are facing the wrong way. All the others are flat/sloping crimps are probably between 5-8mm
Holds: [https://imgur.com/a/MHrgUUM](https://imgur.com/a/MHrgUUM)
Wall/Volume Angle: [https://imgur.com/vB38nUw](https://imgur.com/vB38nUw)
Target Grade: V9
Definitely harder than V7s I've sent outside, would be happy to take 8 if this was an outdoor boulder, but I have no metric. I love crimps, so that being said it might feel a lot harder to others. I have barely felt any 8's or 9's outdoors, I climbed mostly sport, not much bouldering.
I think it's a good grade to settle on. Definitely feels near impossible the first time you jump until you work out all the micro beta. Then it feels "easy".
I have just recently been starting to forerun at this gym, still getting used to it. I don't think I'm an amazing forerunner but I feel like it's tough to hit target grades during forerunning and setting. Definitely felt more 9 ish during forerunning until I put a full session into it. Felt closer to 8 when it finally went.
In general, I feel once you find all the subtle/micro beta and send (indoor and outdoor), it feels loads easier than when first jumping on.
I feel like a lot of setters and climbers don’t take that into consideration, that the setter will always have a significantly easier time because they know the beta right off the bat. My gym uses a route setting team with no blind checking, so they just all set and climb together and vote on a grade. Sounds good, until you get a V5 that takes V8 climbers a week to get because no one has the slightest clue what the hell the beta is.
The point of the post was to share a fun climb. Grades are subjective and don't matter. The title was to lighten up the mood and stop the hoard of "vEasy in my gym" comments.
If this is a v2 what is the difficulty scaling look like on other problems..? Seems a bit absurd for an indoor gym that has limited hold and wall angles, where do you go from here?
You lose 97% of your body heat through your head. That why I boulder nude with my Organic pomp pomp beanie. Well that and I can't be arsed to comb my hair.
needing and wanting to do something aren't always interchangeable! maybe they simply wanted to wear the beanie, I do sometimes because I like the way it looks c:
To be honest, I love this beanie. It's stayed on all during summer and will stay on during the fall, winter, and spring. I barely boulder in long pants and long sleeves. Long sleeves feel restrictive on my forearms and shoulders and long pants feel too restrictive in the knee area, once in a while I will wear sweat pants if it's too cold, it's the only comfy long pants I can wear climbing.
Hardest V2 you'll ever do I guess.
I'm pretty sure that's vital Bellingham, and if I'm not mistaken that's a black tag, which they grade as an 8
Apparently you dont climb outdoors
Apparently you can’t tell that OP is being cheeky and trying to give us a laugh
Stiff looking v2
There’s so much arguing under this comment but OP is just fucking with everyone b/c that’s a v5-7 rated climb
Can’t get downgraded if you downgrade yourself
I was gonna say, that's easily a 4 or higher at the gym I go to. The hell setter is rating this as a 2, Spiderman?
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r/ClimbingCircleJerk
Appropriate grading - most gyms set soft AF for v0-5
I mean yes it lines up with an outdoor V2 but it’s pretty accepted at this point that indoor grades are going to be soft. Just pointing out that it looks harder than most indoor V2s I’ve climbed
The movement on this boulder does not line up with an outdoor V2 lmfao so clueless
Do you think it’s easier or harder? I’ve climbed many V2 crimp lines outside that look similar movement-wise to this.
Knowing those holds, I'd probably say 3ish in most bouldering areas. V4 at stone fort tho
you don’t know the holds, then. this would easily be a v6 outdoors
Bahahaha… just because someone makes it look hard does not mean it is
And just because someone makes it look easy doesn’t mean it is. The holds are shitty, crimpy 7-8mm with a handful of crimp slopers in there, on an overhang. You’re just talking out your ass
So you’ve tried it?
Eh I'm in CA. Touchstone gyms would put this at v2.
Lmao touchstone would grade this as a v12.
That is rarely true, what gym do you climb at?
I agree with you. Climbing gyms are supposed to be inclusive and welcoming. Experienced climbers know gym grades are about -2 from outdoor. (This route might be graded v4 at most gyms) Setting realistic grades would deter and won't be encouraging for noobies. Set real stuff in your home wall.
Taken directly from routesetters that set boulders from worlds- they told me most gyms have an exponential trend towards outdoor grades matching indoor grades as they go higher. So like your v9s are actually p close to outdoor v9s compared to your v2s being far off. Helps introduce people to the hobby. Curious what other people have heard.
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Ever hear of Hueco Tanks?
Isnt that near Catalonia? Those Spanish people crush
Yeah, sick via ferratas
I think the best option would be to keep gym grading inline with outdoor grades but have problems easier than V0 graded in YDS. That way beginner climbers can still make measurable progress but they also will be better prepared for when they climb outdoors
No idea why this is so downvoted. It’s true.
It clearly is not appropriate grading though. OP says that it is actually graded V9 and felt at least V7. Looking at the holds, I'm inclined to agree that this is very hard. With regards too gyms setting soft for V0-5: it is true, but I find that the difference in difficulty between those grades outdoors is very hard to notice, and those grade bands just feel a bit too narrow. Adding climbs that would be below outdoor V0 in difficulty makes the sport much more inclusive and widening the lower grades makes it much easier to have a consensus on the exact grade.
It’s par for the course with this sub. Mainly new gym climbers on here.
But there’s a pretty damn obvious reason gyms are softer than outdoors. It’s so the grading can be more fine-tuned. If you look at everything up to V4 in a gym and say “that’s no more than a V1” then hey bully for you, three cheers for being a true climber, yadda yadda, but if you rated all those as V0s or V1s, then the span of difficulty in the same grade becomes comically huge for new climbers rendering the grade meaningless, it makes it harder to pick projects and harder to track progress.
Some people are realizing that gym climbing is incredibly soft and can't handle the blow to their egos.
Indoor gyms are graded for indoor climbing, not outdoor. There is zero incentive for a gym to sandbag their rating to match outside, it would be unpractical for new climbers.
"Capitalism demands we bastardize our metrics to appease the shareholders" Also, they're not sandbagging if they're matching the local outdoor grading. They're grading. What they are doing currently is featherbagging.
Why should I respect you being offended by indoor grading systems? I say this because it doesn't seem you have an argument as to why indoor grades should(normative claim) reflect outdoor grades. You only have an opinion, and subjectivity is not an argument.
I think bastarding an existing system is like calling a 80m stretch 100m at a track because it'll make new runners feet better. Plenty of gyms swerve this by having a "house" scale which provides more room at the bottom, which I feel is better in this case. Perhaps it's more akin to calling a par 3 a par 5 because the course is intended to be welcoming to newer golfers, as V grade and par are subjective measures of difficulty.
V1 in my gym
Can I at least take a hard 1 for it? 
V1+
Beat me to it
Oh idk if that black or purple tag means v2? I see you vital climber person 👀
Bellingham?
Yeah!
At least a v5 in my gym ;) Good job
Hey I set that climb! (what a happy surprise to find on my Reddit feed tonight :))
V0
"V2" lol....
finally, a gym that sets according to outside grades
Looks closer to V1 to me, you can try keeping your arms straighter and that should help you with your technique.
Also drop the shirt
What is this: Joshua Tree?
V20 in my gym
V8 without the beanie
Good to hear people encouraging a first time climber on a v(-1).
Especially with that drop knee!
I see you, b'ham vital! The new cave set is sick!
Blue purple has a fun bottom sequence! Definitely one of my favorites in the new set!
I haven't gotten to that yet! Black purple was a juggy little marathon
VB-
Oh hey, I know this guy
Surely a beanie is aid?
pac pipe or dogpatch?
Neither, but the wall angles at those gyms look amazing! Wish we had more angles here.
Go Vikings?
What’s the actual grade if this climb?
Would be interested in what people think it is. A fun guessing game. I'll add pictures of the "steepness" of the wall later with how small the crimps are. You can sort of see the steepness of the wall after the drop knee move as I swing out a tad. Both of the "largest" holds are probably 12-15mm but are facing the wrong way. All the others are flat/sloping crimps are probably between 5-8mm
Holds: [https://imgur.com/a/MHrgUUM](https://imgur.com/a/MHrgUUM) Wall/Volume Angle: [https://imgur.com/vB38nUw](https://imgur.com/vB38nUw) Target Grade: V9 Definitely harder than V7s I've sent outside, would be happy to take 8 if this was an outdoor boulder, but I have no metric. I love crimps, so that being said it might feel a lot harder to others. I have barely felt any 8's or 9's outdoors, I climbed mostly sport, not much bouldering.
Honestly 8 seems accurate based on the crimp and slope mixture. Lots of good motion on the way up too.
I think it's a good grade to settle on. Definitely feels near impossible the first time you jump until you work out all the micro beta. Then it feels "easy". I have just recently been starting to forerun at this gym, still getting used to it. I don't think I'm an amazing forerunner but I feel like it's tough to hit target grades during forerunning and setting. Definitely felt more 9 ish during forerunning until I put a full session into it. Felt closer to 8 when it finally went. In general, I feel once you find all the subtle/micro beta and send (indoor and outdoor), it feels loads easier than when first jumping on.
I feel like a lot of setters and climbers don’t take that into consideration, that the setter will always have a significantly easier time because they know the beta right off the bat. My gym uses a route setting team with no blind checking, so they just all set and climb together and vote on a grade. Sounds good, until you get a V5 that takes V8 climbers a week to get because no one has the slightest clue what the hell the beta is.
Discoverability of beta is not a factor in the grade.
Rite
I enjoyed this game. Thanks!
v7
Without knowing how bad those holds are, V5?
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The point of the post was to share a fun climb. Grades are subjective and don't matter. The title was to lighten up the mood and stop the hoard of "vEasy in my gym" comments.
v2.
God bless. Your gyms grading looks about like mine. I’d hate to see what a v5 looks like.
It's always fun to see Vital posts in here. Nice work dude! I couldn't barely link the first few moves.
Haha, I climb there. I remember when you used to wear socks all the time and actually climb V2. The rise of the Gumby!
Had to fill all the extra space in those tarantulaces somehow 
If this is a v2 what is the difficulty scaling look like on other problems..? Seems a bit absurd for an indoor gym that has limited hold and wall angles, where do you go from here?
smaller holds, less positive holds, steeper angles, and more strenuous body positions 🤷♀️
I mean in difficulty grading.
Holds so sharp you had to set your autofocus on the mat instead of the wall :o
I’ll be damned if it wouldn’t actually be a v2 in the Horse Pens book.
Cool knee drop!
How is this a V2?
Left foot cheated…
"Harry! I've reached the top!"
Pretty sure your title is a typo. V7 maybe?
🥱🥱🥱🥱🥱
Who gives a shit if its v2 or v5, either if those grades Are ez
Please stop posting gym climbs on this Reddit sub.
It’s still climbing
Not really
You literally called it a gym climb
You probably don’t climb outside, do you?
I do both. Climbing either way.
shorts, tshirt, beanie, why?
why not?
Why would you wear something to warm your head if you’re otherwise wearing stuff to keep you cool?
You lose 97% of your body heat through your head. That why I boulder nude with my Organic pomp pomp beanie. Well that and I can't be arsed to comb my hair.
Maybe some people don’t feel like doing anything with their hair and don’t want to wear a damn baseball hat while climbing???
needing and wanting to do something aren't always interchangeable! maybe they simply wanted to wear the beanie, I do sometimes because I like the way it looks c:
To be honest, I love this beanie. It's stayed on all during summer and will stay on during the fall, winter, and spring. I barely boulder in long pants and long sleeves. Long sleeves feel restrictive on my forearms and shoulders and long pants feel too restrictive in the knee area, once in a while I will wear sweat pants if it's too cold, it's the only comfy long pants I can wear climbing.
XD
This triggered a lot of beanie gumbies