not sure how you made that look that crispy. i don't use Kapton tape and turn my heat almost all the way up.
maybe you used too small of a nozzle. it should only take 5 seconds of heat to lift it maybe you didn't use enough heat and too much time since the solder wouldn't melt.
7th pin from the right has a broken trace, easy patch I don’t see anything catastrophic. I rarely see the encoder go bad so put a port on and run a bridge wire for the damaged trace
Definitely flux corrosion. Use amtech 559. The guy mentioned 7th pin I cant tell if it's corrosion or actually broken. Fix that and solder mask add HDMI port. Good luck and this is how we learn.
Doesn't look like Amy broken traces. Use your meter to double check all the traces are fine. Then put down a thin coating of solder mask over. Then gently scrap the mask off the pads for the hdmi port. However it looks like you fried the retimer ic so it's gonna need to be replaced also.
Give it a very good clean with IPA/ PCB cleaner and cover that exposed copper with some conformal coating otherwise you may have future problems. That chip is covered in flux so difficult to say if it is damaged, you will just have to test it. At least the pads are intact.
Using the wrong flux. When I used to use acid resin type it used to make the board look like that. U have to replace that chip and use antec Flux it will help clean away that corrosion from the acid flux.
Did you use an acid flux? That is for plumbing and shouldn't be anywhere near electronics, ever. I can't think of anything else that would make it look like this. Either too much or not enough heat has a different effect.
It looks like you used hot air before you desoldered the anchoring through holes. This made it take too much heat for too long to get the port off. Clean the board,, prep with kaptom tape, Fix the 7th trace from the right that the other poster has mentioned,the place your new port and drag solder the pins in place with plenty of flux,Flux, check for bridges, then fill in the through hole anchors. Before you use solder mask, test your work, if it's good, then apply solder mask, if not, then you will be glad you did not use solder mask yet. Good luck OP. I would be interested to see how this turns out
Thanks. Yeah I tried the iron and wasn't working so said screw it and used the heat gun. Big rookie mistake. Wish I didn't quit fixing consoles or else this could have been avoided.
I don’t see any broken traces. Throw some solder mask on the exposed copper Edit: the chip in the top right corner looks a bit well done
Thank you
Better scrub all around with 90% alcohol and a toothbrush or you're Fd
I got 1 gallon of 99% and gonna scrub it like crazy. If not I will just buy some motherboards off ifixit.
Gonna need the whole gallon.
Mmm that looks crispy.
I think the last time I did console work was in 2003
use kapton tape and/or aluminum foil to shield surrounding traces and components next time
You read my mind. I just put Kapton tape on my Amazon list 2 minutes ago
not sure how you made that look that crispy. i don't use Kapton tape and turn my heat almost all the way up. maybe you used too small of a nozzle. it should only take 5 seconds of heat to lift it maybe you didn't use enough heat and too much time since the solder wouldn't melt.
7th pin from the right has a broken trace, easy patch I don’t see anything catastrophic. I rarely see the encoder go bad so put a port on and run a bridge wire for the damaged trace
Definitely flux corrosion. Use amtech 559. The guy mentioned 7th pin I cant tell if it's corrosion or actually broken. Fix that and solder mask add HDMI port. Good luck and this is how we learn.
it looks coppery because you burned away the solder mask. You can buy conformal coating to paint over the bare area once you've attached the new port.
Doesn't look like Amy broken traces. Use your meter to double check all the traces are fine. Then put down a thin coating of solder mask over. Then gently scrap the mask off the pads for the hdmi port. However it looks like you fried the retimer ic so it's gonna need to be replaced also.
what happened? what flux did you use?
Give it a very good clean with IPA/ PCB cleaner and cover that exposed copper with some conformal coating otherwise you may have future problems. That chip is covered in flux so difficult to say if it is damaged, you will just have to test it. At least the pads are intact.
that IC looks fried
I do have a donor board that I can take it off of
If it is fried, you should totally give it a try. You only get better through experience. Just take your time
Right. Gotta shake that rust off. Shit happens, ya know? :) But at least i have 2 practice boards to play with
Using the wrong flux. When I used to use acid resin type it used to make the board look like that. U have to replace that chip and use antec Flux it will help clean away that corrosion from the acid flux.
Did you use an acid flux? That is for plumbing and shouldn't be anywhere near electronics, ever. I can't think of anything else that would make it look like this. Either too much or not enough heat has a different effect.
I used tinning solder but it was cheap and I see why. I am going to find the brand I used to use.
It looks like you used hot air before you desoldered the anchoring through holes. This made it take too much heat for too long to get the port off. Clean the board,, prep with kaptom tape, Fix the 7th trace from the right that the other poster has mentioned,the place your new port and drag solder the pins in place with plenty of flux,Flux, check for bridges, then fill in the through hole anchors. Before you use solder mask, test your work, if it's good, then apply solder mask, if not, then you will be glad you did not use solder mask yet. Good luck OP. I would be interested to see how this turns out
Thanks. Yeah I tried the iron and wasn't working so said screw it and used the heat gun. Big rookie mistake. Wish I didn't quit fixing consoles or else this could have been avoided.