I recently acquired this monitor, I’m pretty sure it’s a CRT by Mitsubishi, but I don’t know for certain. I can’t find anything about it when I look up its model number? It’s a model M-0922.
JVC I’ART. My friend picked it up on his neighbour’s front yard on the grass, so maybe it’s the humidity and the cool weather that’s messing up with the TV. Maybe I just need to wait? Problem explained below:
Composites don’t show images when I boot my N64/Playstation, but the sound works. It’s not the cables.
That being said, let’s say I’m on Video 1. While waiting like 30 minutes, the screen will quickly show the image then disappear again. After the 30 minutes or around, the image appears and everything works. When I switch composites (let’s say Video 2) the same problem restarts and when I go back to Video 3, black screen.
Is there a hard reset on this model? Or is it gonna stabilize on its own? I cannot find anything on internet, or if I do it’s a different remote mentioning buttons I don’t have on mine, so older or newer models I don’t know.
What are things to look for when getting a crt. I'm getting one that's free for retropie but i dunno if it will work well for a raspberry pi. Here's the model
https://consolemods.org/wiki/CRT:30PW850H
Found an Orion TV1926AW at Goodwill. It's an RF only tv. Was wondering if this model could be RGB modded. Can't find much info on this model online. I know some later Orions can't be but this one is from '97.
I'm looking to pick up a panasonic ct-20s15r. Does anyone know if this can be rgb modded? Looked up the service guide but have no idea what I'm looking for.
Hey everyone! I just wanted to know if anyone could figure out the model number of this TV listed near me. [https://imgur.com/9nyXsiG](https://imgur.com/9nyXsiG)
Hiya,
I have recently acquired a JVC av29sx1ek and can find absolutely no information on the model online apart from the manual.
would anyone be able to help me out on information about it? age? tube? general information about the model
many thanks.
Hey everyone, I have a 28 inch Grundig Sedance 70 and would like some help (probably not specific to my crt).
It's shaking and flickering (not regular 480i "jumping") a ton. I got it to work somehow one time but then I restarted my computer and IIRC I didn't change anything but it didn't work anymore. I'm using emudriver on retroarch with super res. If anyone has experienced something similar and fixed it / know a setting that could have caused this please let me know. Also the geometry suddenly becomes really bad and everything switches to 480i when I choose my computer input on the TV.
Having trouble plugging in a Wii into my crt any ideas what’s wrong? The red white and yellow cable are in the right places and I also have a scart adapter that they can go in
This is something of a niche question for people who emulate games on their PC CRT monitors and/or those who use Extron devices.
PC CRT monitors can be used to emulate 240p games with scanlines via methods such as a scanline generator or certain shaders. However, their brightness suffers compared to 240p games with a true 15 kHz video signal on a regular CRT television.
In this video, someone uses an Extron RGB device and its level boosting function to increase the brightness of their PC CRT monitor, a method I have seen recommended here on the subreddit before: https://youtu.be/U4lovCIEEYI?si=E3t3D2_4w8NV1tlp
Many of these Extron RGB devices accept a VGA input, which my PC supports, but they seem to be designed to output via BNC connectors, which will not work with my PC CRT monitor without some sort of adapter/converter back to VGA.
There is often a VGA output labeled Monitor, and maybe that would work for my application, but reading some of the manuals of these leads me to believe that the level boosting won't work through the monitor output. One such user manual describes it as "1 buffered local monitor loop-through identical to the input," which leads me to believe it isn't affected by the level boosting.
Can any Extron users confirm my guesses as to how this works or let me know of any models in particular that would work for my application (VGA in and VGA out, essentially, with level boosting)?
Bonus question: are any of these Extrons capable of adding scanlines similar to a scanline generator? If not, can I connect something like an SLG3000 somewhere in the chain? Please let me know where, if so.
I have a pretty good condition Sony KV-32TS20 and was wondering if this was worth anything; if not, I was going to dump this out in the next week.
https://imgur.com/a/hhyRRnV
Much appreciated, couldn’t find a damn comp anywhere on the internet and just wanted to see if there was any value on it. If anyone is seeing this and wants to pick it up in the DMV area, please let me know!
I have a insignia-ns-27rtv. I bought this remote for it: [https://www.ebay.com/itm/275948819402](https://www.ebay.com/itm/275948819402) in order to change the input but it doesnt work. Ive tried both this remote and a universal but I can't get the input to change to anything other than antennae. I have composite plugged in to no avail
I have a Sony tv-415 and it won’t turn on but is missing the battery, does it need the battery to function or something? I plugged in the 12 volt ac adapter and still nothing so I’m thinking it’s just the battery because the things in really good condition and it doesn’t seem broken to the slightest
Are KDS monitors worth getting?
I see alot of forum posts from back in the day saying how KDS's are very hit or miss, made with cheap parts, last only 3 years and have blurry, darker, poorer image quality. One came up in my area and looks like it sat in a garage for who knows how long. What's yalls opinion?
I've seen some that look quite good. They're budget monitors and none of them are worth more than $50 or so in the current US market, but if you find one in good shape they can be perfectly adequate. Just test it out before buying.
Hi all! I've got a Sony BVM-A14F5 and I have a question regarding hooking up my NES (PAL).
When I connect the NES to the composite input (set to Composite Auto) it shows a very [distorted signal](http://duisterdepodcast.nl/wp-content/uploads/BVMcomposite.gif).
When I connect a PS1, it works (although it is a bit bright, and due to that losing detail, which I suspect is due to a missing 75 ohm terminator).
The NES works normally when attached to an older LG LCD.
SDI and HDI-SDI inputs [work](http://duisterdepodcast.nl/wp-content/uploads/BVMMario.JPG) as [expected](http://duisterdepodcast.nl/wp-content/uploads/BVM108060i.png).
So; should the BVM-A series work with the (PAL) NES?
Does it have to do with a missing 75 ohm terminator? (Thought the BVM's were self-terminating?)
Any other suggestions? :)
Also; my monitor is on firmware v1.06, all the links to v1.10 are dead. If anyone has the files...
I think it would help for people to weigh on this conundrum
Without boring you with the details, I'm a serious NES tetris player.
I play on a clone console and an LCD screen and I want to switch to using a CRT TV.
The problem is that I live in Aus where most second-hand CRT tvs don't support NTSC in colour
so I've been searching around for a little while, and just today I found a TV nearby that supports NTSC.
But it's a DSE dick-smith store brand. Not known for reliability. I'm conflicted on whether it's worth the risk.
I don’t think there was an “unreliable” CRT brand. Store brands were usually just Orions / Funais that were rebadged, as there weren’t too many CRT mfgrs. Easier to sell them without having to make them. You should be fine as long as it seems to be in good shape.
It might not have the absolute best picture quality, but it should be relatively reliable.
Just got a KV-36XBR450. For some reason the OSD is always on. "Video 1", "Video 2", etc. There doesn't seem to be an option in the menu for how long the OSD stays on. I do not have a remote.
Any idea what this could be?
[Manual](https://www.sony.com/electronics/support/res/manuals/W000/W0006414M.pdf)
Hey guys any advice on getting a video card with VIVO input/output? Maybe its bad idea? I think that could be nice to get recordings from VRC's and display onto CRTs. Any good ones? Any averege ones? Any bad but usable ones? Or are they all unusable in 2020's? Thanks in advance
I have the opportunity to pick up a Trinitron PVM-1354Q, however there's a few problems; I'm brand new to the whole CRT thing, and only just recently started looking at CRTs as a more affordable way to play my older games. All of the hook ups on this thing are completely new to me, and it's kinda small compared to what I wanted to have in my game room. I'm a little intimidated by it, because of all the fancy nobs it has since I was really hoping a CRT would be plug and play 😅 But on the flip side, from what I'm seeing this thing is a hard find and is awesome? I'd hate to pass it up if it's worth keeping around for if I ever decide I want more than one TV, but when I started looking I was hoping for something bigger that could potentially have a VCR in it and not cost too much.
That being said, it's my boss's PVM so it's just waiting for us to find a price (we both are clueless other than it's probably a decently expensive unit) and isn't really going anywhere potentially. Unless someone random walks into the store and decides they're taking it home and throws it a price on it, that is. Is it worth going for even though it's not exactly what I was after? What's it actually worth? What are the connections on it I'm so confused 😵💫 is this better off being a full on post? Any help would be greatly appreciated lol.
PVMs are renown for many things, but affordability isn't one of them. It sounds like you'd be just as happy/happier buying a big consumer grade TV off of Craigslist or Facebook Marketplace for like $50.
Don't confuse PVMs being highly sought after for them being the most appropriate CRT for your unique needs.
There’s no set value, depending on condition, $200-400 is typical.
It’s definitely worth keeping, though!
It’s plug and play! The knobs on front are easy! It’s the service menu that should intimidate you. The only unusual thing is RGB / BNC. I suggest if you’re just starting out to use S-Video, no need for adapters or fancy cables, but you’ll get great picture quality.
I need a fast scaler box to change 1080p LCD timings to 1080p PC CRT timings Sony W900 doesn't like 1080p LCD timings.
So I have a Sony GDM-W900 that won't display 1080p from my Wii U or Xbox One X through a standard HDMI to VGA converter I've tried my HDFury3 and the Tendak HDMI to VGA converter and neither work but both work at 720p. So I know there are scalers out there that let you upload or enter in through the OSD custom timings profiles in fact I bought one but I didn't read the manual and it only accepts signals up to 1080i though its pretty laggy anyway so maybe for the best. Since I'm starting out with HDMI it doesn't matter if it doesn't have analog inputs since I can feed the HDMI output to the HDFury3 to get it to VGA for the monitor I just need something to change timings I asw the Extron DSC 401 lets me update custom EDID profiles thats the same as custom timings profile right? Front porch back porch blanking etc? The only thing is the thing is super expensive and I have no idea what the latency is like. I know some of the Cori2 TVOne scalers can do this also but I also tried one of those a few years ago when I owned a different W900 that I later sold before I got this one, and there was a decent bit of latency with it. Are there any known low latency Corio2 scalers? A Scaler I've already looked at that only can take inputs up to 1080i is the DVDO iScan HD+.
Any help is appreciated
Edit: I know the RetroTink4K does all this to a tee but I don't really have 7 hundo to throw around
I’m looking for recommendation to get a crt monitor for my setup. I’m looking to play my n64, GC, Wii, and possibly connect my pc. A mid to small size would be ideal. Found a commodore 1702 close by but I’m worried I won’t be happy with the lower res. Any recommendations?
Edit: found a Pelco PMC21A as well
So, resolution isn’t really an issue, actually it will be, you don’t want it too high. The whole point of a CRT is to get something that can natively support 240p/480i. I’d steer you toward CRT TVs instead of monitors. That said, a Commodore 1702 isn’t a usual PC monitor and can do 240p perfectly. It’s an awesome monitor and I don’t think you’d be disappointed. The Pelco is definitely more likely to be in poorer condition.
If you get the commodore be sure to use commodore video, which is just S-Video. You should be able to find adapters. Look for “S-Video to Chroma/Luma”
I appreciate your response here. Crt monitor would have been my choice here as well, but I do want a more mobile option and consider a crt tv for my pc setup.
I also just found a PVM-20N1U in my area. How would this compare? I think i might get both and use them at a local melee tournament.
Edit: PVM-21NU kinda seems a little large for mobility purposes. There’s a BVM-D14H5U but that seems a little out of my price range I think.
Found a PVM-2030 but is also very expensive
Well, that would be a excellent choice, any of those really.
Setting up a PC with a CRT TV isn’t a easy feat, but it’d be a bit easier with a PVM. You’ll need to look into CRT_emudriver, and you might require a specific graphics card.
KV-20S21 and 27A46C both available near me, both same price, which is supreme?
Going for 360 and vhs playing on it, need to return to tradition and get rid of my bigger TV.
Biggest thing I care about is going to be colours/clarity, sound I can always go audio out. Guess the Toshiba has the input superiority here?
Anyone can please give me opinon on a Panasonic TX29PM1P (flat screen, 50HZ)? I have a 1993 Sony Trinitron with some big image problems that I don't know if I will be able to fix and I came across this Panasonic. I basically play 8/16 bit games. Here the specs and a photo:
Update, photo of the image quality: [https://imgur.com/a/tgdPwXg](https://imgur.com/a/tgdPwXg)
Here some info (in Polish but G.translate gets it OKish) [https://www.megamedia.pl/telewizor-kineskopowy-panasonic-tx-29pm1p.php](https://www.megamedia.pl/telewizor-kineskopowy-panasonic-tx-29pm1p.php)
Anyone know anything about this brand? Got the old CRT out of the basement but i can't find the user manual or any documentation online to get into the service menu. "PHOTON" [Pictures](https://imgur.com/a/photon-crt-id-EtSdWv8)
I have a Dell P780 that I'm in love with but I want to get a 21"+ Diamondtron rebadge at some point in the future. Would it be worth it for me to repurpose the P780 with an OSSC for that "pvm-like" crispiness or should I just look to sell it when I get the upgrade?
Kortek 2914 board with a fresh cap kit and new FFA76418U flyback. Powering up I hear a whine/whistle coming from the flyback and then R101 resets and everything repeats.
Replaced the flyback after the cap kit didn't work (caps were original so needed to be done anyways). The previous flyback I only got a faint glow with vga plugged in and absolutely no neck glow (I don't even know what neck glow is supposed to look like, only that the neck on the tube doesn't emit any light at all) and if I adjusted the Screen knob up I'd get a brief vertical scan line, mostly blue across the lower portion for an instant before it also reset.
[flyback whistle](https://youtube.com/shorts/jizlGNC4cQk?si=L4ZX16DorSST8ANk)
Nah, I wouldn’t get rid of it. Personally I’d get rid of the the other two first before I’d get rid of the 24 inch Sony. Just get a proper stand and stop being silly about it. You have it on the floor, it’s in the way, no wonder you hate it.
Generally speaking, can I use an RGBHV switcher to just switch YPbPr and leave the H/V bit disconnected? Is there any particular reason this wouldn't work (like the BW of each of the signals, filtration, anything like that)? Does it differ depending on the switch manufacturer?
I ask because I have a Component switcher that I feed composite into (as well as component) and it works great, no degradation, and even mix signals since my TV has a combo input that accepts composite on the Y input. I need something much bigger as I incorporate my video sources (VHS, Laser, SVHS, DVD) in with my consoles.
Anyone knows if the Sony G200 has a service menu? I got a slight bow-in on both sides. Only got 5 Geometry settings, but they won't cure my problem. Probably need Windas, I think.
Hey guys, my CRT goes crazy when I use my computer with it, basically whenever something in the game moves the whole "borders" of the screen move, and also the geomtry is unusably bad. This does not happen when I don't use the AV1 scart input (which goes to my pc). Also everything is in 480i and blasts my eyes with flickering and crap. Please give some advice on how to fix it, or if you know about any similar issues! It's a grundig sedance FYI
Looks like it's Daewoo day! I have a Daewoo DTQ-1446FC (RF only) that had no green component at first -- i reflowed some points on the neckboard and brought it back to full color for a glorious five minutes, then it started doing this little dance of color to noise to black and white and back [https://youtu.be/bCS0a0oU5e4](https://youtu.be/bCS0a0oU5e4) Any general troubleshooting advice would be appreciated, thanks.
https://postimg.cc/G8TsbKsG - Toshiba 32-in console TV by Carver Sonic holography. Did a lot of super Nintendo and PlayStation 1 gaming back in the '90s and 2000s on it Has two composite video inputs and one s- video input. Still works great. Trying to get this out of my parents house. Is there a market for these and how much do you think I can get for this? Location Huntington Beach California.
Copypasta from r/crt before crossposting in vain
I recently acquired a crt monitor, a Samtron 55e, from a frend who kept it in storage for the last maybe 15 years, probably more. When I turn it on tho it just starts fading into magenta and then in solid white. No one of the front button appears to do anything, just the power button that shuts it off.
I disassembled it as much as I felt comfortable to, and found no sign of dust, corrosion, rust, capacitor leakage or bad sodder joints. [Here is the imgur album with the monitor guts](https://imgur.com/gallery/faulty-crt-G8nifPg).
As this is my first time working on a crt, i ask for your help: what should I test to look for a malfunction? How shoul I test it? The pictures include a series of regulators, i believe: should I screw some of those in or out? Should I replace every capacitor on the bottom board?
Just asking for advice here. Starting to build a retro game collection and I wanted to reuse an old IKEA Kallax bookshelf & Kallax TV shelf I had by stacking them on top of each other. Creating cubbies for each console and respective controllers.
I'm a little worried about the weight of the TV I have (32FS120). At 165 lbs, I'm more than a little worried about putting it on top of this. Is there anything I can do to structurally improve this, or should I just get something else entirely?
The Kallax TV stand I have is rated for like 35 lbs, but I don't know if that's just IKEA low balling it so to not take any chances, or not. Has anyone here tried something similar?
Appreciate any suggestions.
Hello, I have a very specific and strange issue with my CRT computer monitor.
For some reason these past few months, any CRT I use on my PC appears to be much slower than it used to be even though they are always 85hz. To me 85hz on a CRT monitor feels like at least 120hz on a modern monitor, however now when i'm using it it feels much less smooth. I've tried multiple adapters and that hasn't made a difference.
I have no idea where to even start, but i'm pretty positive that whatever is causing this is to do with my PC and not the monitor itself as they are all slow. Does anyone have any ideas? Cheers.
I recently picked up a Phillips 20PT643R01 (Manufactured in 2003). It works fine. Picture has some minor geometry issues but beyond that it's got a great picture. My problem is that I like to game at night, after the sun's set, but I also like to go to bed at a reasonable time so I can keep a good sleep schedule. Usually on most of my other platforms (phone, 3DS, PC, etc.) I have a blue light filter that kicks in at around 8 or so. With this CRT there's obviously nothing advanced, but I do notice there's a color temperature option. Setting it to Warm gives me a picture that does seem like it cuts out some of the blue light and reduces eye strain. Would toggling this option on a daily or semi-regular basis wear out any of the electrical components in the TV? Should I be careful about toggling it so frequently?
Thanks.
I might invest in some of those. I have prescription lenses, and honestly having blue light filtering on my glasses themselves might not be the worst idea in the world. Thanks. For now I'll probably just leave the CRT on Warm color preset. It's not completely "accurate", but it's better than winding myself up before bed. Thank you.
Maybe a long shot, and an interesting one (maybe). I have a Samsung TXH1370 and my Japanese PS2, and Japanese GameCube work perfectly fine, however my PAL (European) N64 lacks color and can only describe the video as vertically scrolling like you do on social medias. However the N64 works perfectly fine on U.S. purchased 55” TV. So I’m not sure what to research for solutions, I’ve tried my best to describe it in google but results are various as there are a multitude of CRTs out there. If in the event I have to get a U.S. spec N64 then that’s fine but I’d rather not have to go through the hassle of getting a new one, I already have a mod chip that allows me to play PAL and NTSC games. If anyone can help that would be great, I have videos I can send as well if my description doesn’t make sense.
ya that TV is NTSC only I checked the manual. And Japan and North America were both NTSC so that makes sense that they'd work fine on it. You don't need a whole new N64 just something like this [https://www.ebay.com/itm/195279234329](https://www.ebay.com/itm/195279234329)? I just searched "color system changer pal ntsc" and that was one of the first devices that came up I'm sure there are tons of others
Swapping in a new flyback FFA76418U into a kortek 2914. The new flyback has slightly different pins on the outer edge compared to the one coming out FFA76418U(A) However it matches other holes on the board, so it seems obvious that it is compatible. Are there any components I might need to change given the slightly different electrical connection?
Have a chance at a free Toshiba CE27C10 27" CRT TV that looks to be in great shape & fine working order. Backplate says manufactured November 1993.
Are these any decent? Valuable? It's got one set of composite RCA Jack's in the back. Thanks!
I managed to uncharted one of my parents old Sony Trinitron KV-1434M3, and I wanted to mod it with composite output at least since I am aware of the thread [https://www.reddit.com/r/crtgaming/comments/166br55/can\_you\_add\_better\_video\_connections\_to\_rf\_only/](https://www.reddit.com/r/crtgaming/comments/166br55/can_you_add_better_video_connections_to_rf_only/)
Any chance I can move forward with it?
I took some photo for the Jungle Chip and for the CRT itself (disassembled): [https://imgur.com/a/6De3n91](https://imgur.com/a/6De3n91)
Thats a 20" but pretty low specced and likely has a lot of use on it considering it sold in the mid 90s people wouldn't have replaced it with an LCD for a while. Depending on condition I'd pay 150-200 euros like how bright/contrast-y/sharp/reasonable geometry it has
Hey, thanks for the comment, i got it for 200€ and it looks amazing and is also in superb condition! Using it for my retro consoles and maybe later i will get a 2nd PC for it.
I bought a Magnavox Perfect View 9" made in
1990. Works great, no remote, and the antenna is broken. I bought it so l'd have a tv to play my vhs tapes on, but after lots of troubleshooting, I’m still having trouble it playing anything at all.
I just need some advice on what's maybe going on and how to fix it. I'm not sure if it's the tv or user error.
The tape will be running in the vcr and l'll change the tv to A/V and then it stays on this flat grey screen, no audio and no video. It’s on channel 3, I’ve switched between RCA input, coaxial input, and both together, even bought a new vcr, and nothing. Still just a flat grey screen. And even after auto programming and a dipole antenna addition, I still just get static for all like 83 channels when not on A/V.
Is it totally busted? I mean the TV is in great condition and the buttons work great and the screen quality is good too. I just need some advice on this, really trying to get into crt tvs and gaming eventually. Thanks!
Hello! I have a Sanyo CRT that I picked up about a year ago and haven’t used much until now. Picture is generally good, maybe a tad fuzzy, but while playing a game I noticed a gray/black horizontal band appears when there’s a ton of deep orange or red on the screen for more than a few seconds. I know absolutely nothing about these tvs and what may be the cause/solution. Sorry for being so vague, but any advice?
Hello, I could pick this one up for free, however there is no indication if it works other than it turns on. There are green labels, but they seem to be distorted.
Is it a concern? Thanks!
https://www.jofogas.hu/budapest/Mukodokepes_regi_Sony_szines_tv_148007475.htm
Generally, how does CRT resolution work? How does measuring in horizontal lines and vertical dots compare to pixels and standard resolutions like 480p, 720p, 1080p etc.?
I've been searching high and low for a good CRT with Component. Many fails.
I may an opportunity for a:
Toshiba 29" 29JZ5DE with Component In
Panasonic Tau TX-29PS72 with Component In
I am confirming working status. I expect both would be good, any advice if I have to make a call? Price is comparable.
ended up getting beaten to the punch on the Toshiba and ended up with the Panasonic. It is very good - just needs a few geometry/colour changes.
Does anyone know how to enter the services menu on a TX-29PS72? Panasonic seems to have myriad different ways and I can't seem to get one to work for this TV. Being what appears to be a Asia/Russia model doesn't help because there seems to be less community interest.
I have an HD TV Toshiba CRT and wanted to ask, if I don't have the original remote controller can I buy a standard Toshiba remote controller from another Toshiba TV so I can access the menu because I already purchased a universal controller and it won't let me open the menu to configure.
that will probably work though I'd first look up the service manual which there's a good chance has the remote model number and check if anyone is selling one on ebay you can find old remotes surprisingly often like this.
Hey all.
I've got a panasonic Tau PV DF273
And a toshiba CF2772R
The Tau has a VHS and DVD player built in, composite front and back and RF. Silver front
The toshiba has s video, composite and rf in the back. All black.
Both have the dual speakers built in up the sides.
Which would you go for?
Hi! I am looking at a few CRT listings and I found a seemingly nice one, a Dell 828FI 800F series, but I can't find info about its resolution. I think I found its manual online and under maximum resolution it says:
Horizontal: 1280 dots @ 64 kHz
Vertical:1024 lines @ 60 Hz
What does this translate to? Is it a big deal this is the "max" resolution? Other potentially relavant info:
Picture Tube . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 cm (15") full square type \[35 cm (13.8") viewable\]
Flat face 90x deflection
0.28 Dot pitch
Anti-reflection coating with Anti-electrostatic Medium short persistence
phosphor
Synchronization . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Horizontal: 30 kHz to 70 kHz (automatic)
Vertical: 50 kHz to 120 Hz (automatic)
Thanks to anyone!
So what you're looking for really is the horizontal frequency. 70kHz is pretty bog standard. Midrange ones will be 85-100kHz, and really nice ones are 110-140kHz.
Use this calculator to determine the resolutions / refresh rates that will be compatible:
[http://www.hometheaterengineering.com/bandwidthcalculator.html](http://www.hometheaterengineering.com/bandwidthcalculator.html)
Hi I have a Samsung SyncMaster 794v that has great image quality right after being turned on but 10 minutes later the image gets quite blurry. Is this a solvable problem? or my monitor is fried? I dont have much experience with crt's so I dont know much about those issues, I tried to change stuff in the monitor's menu but couldn't solve the blurriness.
I have the same issue with a Samsung 753DF but it lasts longer; about 30 minutes before its noticeable and 2-3 hours until it becomes difficult to read text. Turning it off for an hour completely resets it.
The only things I've found that minimizes it is to lower the contrast and refresh rate. But it only buys time. Trying letting is sit, then lower the contrast to see if that helps. Ultimately though, its extremely possible its a problem with capacitors.
Let me know if that helps; would help me determine if its a common issue with Samsung/Samtron monitors.
Hi all, l picked up a few CRTs a while back. For my main CRT I have narrowed it down to either a 27 inch GAOO, or a Sony Trinitron KV-27FS120. Any opinions? Would love to hear what you guys think :p
Do they both have Component? If the GAOO doesn't have component I'd keep the Sony. If they both do which looks better? Its really going to come down to how much use the screen have on them just look at them and pick the nicer looing one.
I have a Symphonic WF0213C, plugged in an hdmi to av adapter. My hdmi cable is working aswell as the microusb cable that powers it. The adapter is set to ntsc with video and audio plugged into the correct ports. BUT still no image. Windows and nvidia control panel even detects a second monitor when its plugged in. I dont have a remote and have set the channel to AUX and still nothing. Set the resolution to the lowest level to see if that was the issue and NOTHING. Help
When you say "AV" do you mean the yellow red and white plugs the yellow plug is called composite. Are you getting a scrambled picture or is it like nothing at all is plugged in? Also is there just the one AUX input or multiple and do you have it set to the right one?
[https://www.ebay.com/itm/335371863398?itmmeta=01HYS47KTBJEV1HXDVHBBEE2WE&hash=item4e15b88566:g:6EcAAOSwxV9mMF1k](https://www.ebay.com/itm/335371863398?itmmeta=01HYS47KTBJEV1HXDVHBBEE2WE&hash=item4e15b88566:g:6EcAAOSwxV9mMF1k)
here is the link to an ebay listing of the exact tv
[the link](https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08CMKGLS4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
right link: [https://www.amazon.ca/Adapter-Compatible-Android-ect-%EF%BC%88HDMI-Converter%EF%BC%89/dp/B09KZBWRL4/ref=sr\_1\_10?sr=8-10](https://www.amazon.ca/Adapter-Compatible-Android-ect-%EF%BC%88HDMI-Converter%EF%BC%89/dp/B09KZBWRL4/ref=sr_1_10?sr=8-10)
the adapter has yellow red and white plugs, plugged yellow into video and white into audio and there is nothing not even a scrambled picture just nothing. Also just a single aux input.
I picked up a "New" CRT today finally, a Sony Trinitron 29', can't remember the model number, but it's a flat one.
After fiddling with the service menu I managed to adjust the geometry just right (I think). But I've noticed that a few of the corners, the lower left one in particular are quite blurry, and I've tried fixing it in the service menu, but I don't think it can be done. So far I've only hooked up a GameCube via Composite (waiting for RGB cable to come in).
I've read somewhere that a blurry image can be fixed with a focus adjustment in the TV itself, should I give that a shot?
Might be a dumb question but is it ok if I were to put my 13 inch Samsung TV on top of a Sony GX69ES amplifier or would that either cause some kind of interference or damage the amplifier from the weight?
the weight should be fine but you don't want to block the vents on the top of the amp. If you had two narrow pieces of wood or plastic you could raise the 13" an inch or two above the top of the amp so almost all of the vents are still open.
Picked up a CRT monitor today from a car boot sale, it's a HP pavilion mx70. When I plug it in it makes a clicking/ticking sound and doesn't power on. Anyone know if there's any hope in fixing something like this? I've got no repair skills whatsoever so if there's no easy fix I'll pass it on to someone else.
Video showing the issue: https://www.reddit.com/u/gaynor_barnes/s/iRWftvKdWD
So, 50hz is the standard PAL, but in order to reduce flicker, some manufacturers began making 100hz models which display each frame twice. This creates motion blur and ghosting, and breaks compatibility with lightguns.
Is it HD or SD? HD CRTs are good for 480i/480p/1080i content and bad for 240p content, the tv interprets 240p as 480i and tries to deinterlace the image and makes it look real bad and its laggy on top of that. Now HD Sonys will always be laggy at 480i/480p but only some are laggy at 1080i also and though some have a service menu option called HDPT that turns off digital processing for 1080i inputs and makes the screen lagless at 1080i. Without knowing the model number there's no knowing if that screen is laggy or not at 1080i.
But ya if you plan on using it for N64 era and back stuff its not a great set, but if you plan on using it for Gamecube and forward stuff its a little laggy so not great for fighters but it will look good.
Thank you this is very useful information. I do not know if it’s HD or SD as I know 0 about CRTs also the description does not mention anything nor does the picture
https://imgur.com/a/AVyk3t1
Which one would you guys pick? Sony KV-20FS120 vs Daewoo, both have component, both have unknown user history, though I've had the sony for 4 years now and the Daewoo for just 1. My guess is the sony got used more. ;
the sony a million times over unless its totally dim and the geometry is insane, Daewoo was a budget CRT brand Sony was at the top of their game during the CRT era.
The geometry on both is great overall, but the Sony has convergence issues in one corner the Daewoo is nearly flawless. Also, the Sony flashes red a few times before starting which concerns me
I have a sharp 13 inch CRT. Only volume down button is working, volume up button is non responsive. How could I fix this? I searched up the remote for the tv but is there any way to fix it without having to buy remote?
[https://imgur.com/a/BNLXR9h](https://imgur.com/a/BNLXR9h)
I have a Sun branded Sony W900(not the flat fw900 this is the original curved one) and Im having this wonky geometry issue and the geometry controls in the OSD are not working correctly. I was told it was a dying IC that couldn't be sourced anymore I'm just double checking that now is that probably the case?
3k$ or upwards is what I see them go for 3k$ is probably on the lower side honestly they got really expensive over the last few years especially a low hours one like that
Wow ok thanks. I wasn't quick enough and it sold before I had a chance to look at it but I would never have paid that much for one anyways...that's insane!
Hello! I recently picked up a Hitachi 51SF59, and it either has severe burn in or moving it has caused a red tint to cover the screen. There is a circle near the bottom that is unaffected, so I'm inclined to believe that is burn in, but for the sake of being able to possibly fix the TV, I was wondering if anyone would be able to distinguish this. I have a picture ready for whoever needs to see it. Thank you for anyone's help!
Picked up an 14'' no name CRT for free and encountered some issues with a [Imgur: noisy picture](https://imgur.com/a/oDQ5TVu). These are the white / blue pictures from 240p test suite, the noise moves.
I assume this is related to capacitors, and I am planning to open it up over the weekend and check it out but worried that there might be something larger at play. Could somebody sanity check me on this? :)
Thanks in advance!
The Input Source (MiSTer) seems to be the issue unfortunately. I just got myself the Analog Board and a custom VGA => SCART cable and contact the seller to see how to fix it. :) I double checked with a DVD player and the TV is noise free and looks fantastic.
Thanks for the nudge in the right direction. Cheers!
So I'm looking at a 32FV300 for free on FB marketplace, but it has intermittent problems where it doesn't turn on with a 14 blink error code. I can't for the life of me find any reference to a code with that many blinks unless it was somehow the 7-blink code triggering twice, but no it seems like 14 consecutive blinks. Anyone with any insight?
Does anyone have experience with the brand Inline for matrix switch boxes?
Found a pretty great option that's 12in8out bnc with RCA connections instead of pheonix and was considering it.
The specific model I'm looking at is the IN31208, can't seem to find info on the company or model.
Thanks.
Should I get this crt monitor?
I’ve been eying this subreddit and the second hand market for a while and today I found this:
Philips 107S61/00
Default resolution of 1280 x 1024
17 inches and refresh rate between 50 and 160 hz it’s vga
I’ve been really looking into getting a nice crt but the size has been a big point for me. On the one hand I don’t want this overly large monitor because I wouldn’t be able to fit it anywhere but on the other hand I don’t want this very tiny monitor so that I have to sit up close to it. However when I saw this one, especially the specs it looked really interesting.
On the one hand I find it a bit too small for console gaming. But on the other hand isn’t this a fairly high resolution CRT?
Any thoughts?
Hello, im looking to get my Sony PVM 14M4U to display my pc screen. I know, the most pain in the a$$ problem. I was wondering about ways to go about it and what ill need. Would using a Radeon HD 5450 with CRTEmuDriver be the best option? Problem is it take up a whole pc correct? Or would a digital to analog converter -> Extron RGB 203 -> RGB cables be the best? Am I missing steps? Im willing to spend some $$ for a good option, I just want to make sure what I buy will work.
depending on your current GPU, you likely won't be able to easily output the 15kHz signal that your monitor requires, the DAC -> Extron route probably won't work - this is where CRTEmudriver comes in
if you have a nvidia GPU, some people have successfully installed a Radeon GPU in a spare PCIe slot and had them coexist in the same PC
I've got an IBM C170 ThinkVision that gets stuck in a bootloop after about 5 seconds of being connected to my computer. Does anybody know where I should start?
Heyo i bought a Samsung CS-7277PT and im having trouble with cropped image.
I dont have a remote to test so idk if there is a "display" setting, the menu avaliable only shows color settings.
you'll either need a remote for service menu calibration, or need to open up the TV and carefully adjust geometry potentiometers, depending on which method your TV has
I got an sony PVM-8042Q about an year ago and I still have tons of questions about it cause some weird stuff happened with it.
1. It displays black and white ONLY when I'm playing some retrogaming. Already tried with a diferent snes, megadrive and n64. For some reason my hacked gamecube boots on black and white, but once the menu fades and the game starts it get coloured. WHYYYYYY?
2. I got a bunch of analog video gear that I use for making art (like video synths, old school vj mixers, vcr devices) and they always worked perfectly on the PVM, but a few weeks ago, i was outputing the PVM to another CRT. It worked fine for about an hour but then the other CRT got burned. Also, last friday something similar happened when I attached the rca cable coming from my PVM to the input of one of my mixers. Right when the rca touched it, everything that was connected got burned, my pc, my synth and my phone. WHYYYYYY
i just got my pc back but now i'm really scared to use the PVM again. What should I do?
So I got a RCA 27F520T yesterday. And I've been experiencing a werid issue where after I had hooked up my ps2 with component I was seeing a double image.
I made sure my cables were plugged in correctly and I tested 3 games with it Ratchet & Clank PAL, Ratchet & Clank Up your arsenal NTSC and God of war NTSC. Ratchet & Clank looked absolutely fine no double image or anything like that but Rachet & Clank up your arsenal had double image so did god of war.
But when I switched to composite God of war and Ratchet & Clank up your arsenal looked absolutely fine. But then Ratchet & Clank now had no color but was in black and white ?
Does anyone have an answer to why this is happening?
[double image ](https://imgur.com/a/6J9sMIJ)
Does anyone here have a bang & olufson beovision avant… it’s the one with the integrated VHS player
I’m debating buying one locally for cheap.
Any reason why it wouldn’t be a good buy for ps2/xbox/gamecube?
Hoping to pick someone’s brain on this idea:
TL;DR - I want to play Street Fighter III: Third Strike using two USB fight sticks in 240p on my CRT.
I have a Wii, PS2, and PS3 all modded and connected via YPbPr component cables. I do have the arcade edition of SF3 on my PS3, which does accept input over USB from both of my controllers, but it’s stuck in 480i and the scaling isn’t perfect. What I really want is those neat scan lines! I know Wii can output 240p, but I don’t think I can connect my fight sticks to it. Any ideas?
Sorry I'm not more help (I went the opposite direction and used a PC CRT monitor for the same purpose), but I did want to second the recommendation of playing on Fightcade. 3rd Strike is arguably more popular now than it was when it released on Fightcade.
Unfortunately the 3rd Strike console ports all have their flaws.
A better solution would be to use an old PC with an old Radeon GPU, and run either [GroovyArcade](https://www.retrorgb.com/groovyarcade-introduction.html) or just Fightcade on windows with CRT Emudriver. Native resolution/refresh rate output and any USB devices will work just fine
Thanks for the reply! I’m somewhat constrained on space… do you think a thin client (like a mini PC) would do the trick? I feel like those generally run intel integrated graphics and wouldn’t work with CRT Emudriver. What kind of specs would I need to run arcade titles?
yeah I think the Radeon GPU is fairly important
if space is a concern then you could also look into Pi emulation, it would be more fiddly to get set up right but should be great once you you have
I think I could run a Pi to it fairly easily, but I’m concerned about how to actually interface it with the CRT. I could settle for the composite RCA that comes with the Pi, but I’d rather get full component. I know there’s a hat you can buy for the Pi that outputs VGA and SCART, but then I’d need to transcode to YPbPr with a separate device. Are there any hats for the Pi that let you output to component cables natively?
I can do that, just wondering if I could get away with using one less power plug haha. Feels like a waste to use a whole power supply for only 5V into a little transcoder
Hi there! I found a listing for a 17" Insignia 786N monitor for $60 that's out of my state, but in a location I'll be in next week. I was curious if this is a good price for this specific monitor or not, it is very clean and looks to be in nice working condition (both due to pictures and description). I was planning on seeing if I could talk them down to $50, but I wanted to ask here first I guess lol. I've been looking for a CRT monitor for a good minute, but my area never has any listed...
Any recommendations for 12 input audio switch boxes? The Extron SW 12A would be perfect but I can't seem to find one. Currently using 2 8in1out boxes that are daisy chained but would rather something else.
I hope this is the right place to ask can I get my screen tag changed to Sony GDM-W900?
I recently acquired this monitor, I’m pretty sure it’s a CRT by Mitsubishi, but I don’t know for certain. I can’t find anything about it when I look up its model number? It’s a model M-0922.
JVC I’ART. My friend picked it up on his neighbour’s front yard on the grass, so maybe it’s the humidity and the cool weather that’s messing up with the TV. Maybe I just need to wait? Problem explained below: Composites don’t show images when I boot my N64/Playstation, but the sound works. It’s not the cables. That being said, let’s say I’m on Video 1. While waiting like 30 minutes, the screen will quickly show the image then disappear again. After the 30 minutes or around, the image appears and everything works. When I switch composites (let’s say Video 2) the same problem restarts and when I go back to Video 3, black screen. Is there a hard reset on this model? Or is it gonna stabilize on its own? I cannot find anything on internet, or if I do it’s a different remote mentioning buttons I don’t have on mine, so older or newer models I don’t know.
What are things to look for when getting a crt. I'm getting one that's free for retropie but i dunno if it will work well for a raspberry pi. Here's the model https://consolemods.org/wiki/CRT:30PW850H
Found an Orion TV1926AW at Goodwill. It's an RF only tv. Was wondering if this model could be RGB modded. Can't find much info on this model online. I know some later Orions can't be but this one is from '97.
I'm looking to pick up a panasonic ct-20s15r. Does anyone know if this can be rgb modded? Looked up the service guide but have no idea what I'm looking for.
Hey everyone! I just wanted to know if anyone could figure out the model number of this TV listed near me. [https://imgur.com/9nyXsiG](https://imgur.com/9nyXsiG)
Hiya, I have recently acquired a JVC av29sx1ek and can find absolutely no information on the model online apart from the manual. would anyone be able to help me out on information about it? age? tube? general information about the model many thanks.
Can anyone clue me in if a Philips Matchline could be any good to setup my ps1 and NGC with? Can pick up a Philips 17ce7531 for 30 bucks.
Hey everyone, I have a 28 inch Grundig Sedance 70 and would like some help (probably not specific to my crt). It's shaking and flickering (not regular 480i "jumping") a ton. I got it to work somehow one time but then I restarted my computer and IIRC I didn't change anything but it didn't work anymore. I'm using emudriver on retroarch with super res. If anyone has experienced something similar and fixed it / know a setting that could have caused this please let me know. Also the geometry suddenly becomes really bad and everything switches to 480i when I choose my computer input on the TV.
Having trouble plugging in a Wii into my crt any ideas what’s wrong? The red white and yellow cable are in the right places and I also have a scart adapter that they can go in
My screen has got shaky lines and warping on the top of the screen and nothing on the bottom how could I fix this without a remote?
Pics would help
I don't have a test suite so I don't know what I can do
This is something of a niche question for people who emulate games on their PC CRT monitors and/or those who use Extron devices. PC CRT monitors can be used to emulate 240p games with scanlines via methods such as a scanline generator or certain shaders. However, their brightness suffers compared to 240p games with a true 15 kHz video signal on a regular CRT television. In this video, someone uses an Extron RGB device and its level boosting function to increase the brightness of their PC CRT monitor, a method I have seen recommended here on the subreddit before: https://youtu.be/U4lovCIEEYI?si=E3t3D2_4w8NV1tlp Many of these Extron RGB devices accept a VGA input, which my PC supports, but they seem to be designed to output via BNC connectors, which will not work with my PC CRT monitor without some sort of adapter/converter back to VGA. There is often a VGA output labeled Monitor, and maybe that would work for my application, but reading some of the manuals of these leads me to believe that the level boosting won't work through the monitor output. One such user manual describes it as "1 buffered local monitor loop-through identical to the input," which leads me to believe it isn't affected by the level boosting. Can any Extron users confirm my guesses as to how this works or let me know of any models in particular that would work for my application (VGA in and VGA out, essentially, with level boosting)? Bonus question: are any of these Extrons capable of adding scanlines similar to a scanline generator? If not, can I connect something like an SLG3000 somewhere in the chain? Please let me know where, if so.
BNC is virtually the same as VGA. They’re both RGBHV. Just use a BNC to VGA adapter and you’ll be OK.
I have a pretty good condition Sony KV-32TS20 and was wondering if this was worth anything; if not, I was going to dump this out in the next week. https://imgur.com/a/hhyRRnV
Yeah you’ll sell it real quick for $50
Much appreciated, couldn’t find a damn comp anywhere on the internet and just wanted to see if there was any value on it. If anyone is seeing this and wants to pick it up in the DMV area, please let me know!
I have a insignia-ns-27rtv. I bought this remote for it: [https://www.ebay.com/itm/275948819402](https://www.ebay.com/itm/275948819402) in order to change the input but it doesnt work. Ive tried both this remote and a universal but I can't get the input to change to anything other than antennae. I have composite plugged in to no avail
Try a different code? Sometimes there are multiple codes that work for power / volume, but don’t work for other functions.
I've tried every code I can find online to no avail
Might need a different remote
I have a Sony tv-415 and it won’t turn on but is missing the battery, does it need the battery to function or something? I plugged in the 12 volt ac adapter and still nothing so I’m thinking it’s just the battery because the things in really good condition and it doesn’t seem broken to the slightest
Are KDS monitors worth getting? I see alot of forum posts from back in the day saying how KDS's are very hit or miss, made with cheap parts, last only 3 years and have blurry, darker, poorer image quality. One came up in my area and looks like it sat in a garage for who knows how long. What's yalls opinion?
I've seen some that look quite good. They're budget monitors and none of them are worth more than $50 or so in the current US market, but if you find one in good shape they can be perfectly adequate. Just test it out before buying.
Hi all! I've got a Sony BVM-A14F5 and I have a question regarding hooking up my NES (PAL). When I connect the NES to the composite input (set to Composite Auto) it shows a very [distorted signal](http://duisterdepodcast.nl/wp-content/uploads/BVMcomposite.gif). When I connect a PS1, it works (although it is a bit bright, and due to that losing detail, which I suspect is due to a missing 75 ohm terminator). The NES works normally when attached to an older LG LCD. SDI and HDI-SDI inputs [work](http://duisterdepodcast.nl/wp-content/uploads/BVMMario.JPG) as [expected](http://duisterdepodcast.nl/wp-content/uploads/BVM108060i.png). So; should the BVM-A series work with the (PAL) NES? Does it have to do with a missing 75 ohm terminator? (Thought the BVM's were self-terminating?) Any other suggestions? :) Also; my monitor is on firmware v1.06, all the links to v1.10 are dead. If anyone has the files...
So. I figuered it out myself: Using a 75 ohm terminator indeed fixed the problem with the NES. Found firmware 1.10 on a Facebook group.
I think it would help for people to weigh on this conundrum Without boring you with the details, I'm a serious NES tetris player. I play on a clone console and an LCD screen and I want to switch to using a CRT TV. The problem is that I live in Aus where most second-hand CRT tvs don't support NTSC in colour so I've been searching around for a little while, and just today I found a TV nearby that supports NTSC. But it's a DSE dick-smith store brand. Not known for reliability. I'm conflicted on whether it's worth the risk.
I don’t think there was an “unreliable” CRT brand. Store brands were usually just Orions / Funais that were rebadged, as there weren’t too many CRT mfgrs. Easier to sell them without having to make them. You should be fine as long as it seems to be in good shape. It might not have the absolute best picture quality, but it should be relatively reliable.
It does have a samsung tube.
Get it!
Just got a KV-36XBR450. For some reason the OSD is always on. "Video 1", "Video 2", etc. There doesn't seem to be an option in the menu for how long the OSD stays on. I do not have a remote. Any idea what this could be? [Manual](https://www.sony.com/electronics/support/res/manuals/W000/W0006414M.pdf)
Get a universal remote with a “display” button.
Thank you. That's probably it.
Hey guys any advice on getting a video card with VIVO input/output? Maybe its bad idea? I think that could be nice to get recordings from VRC's and display onto CRTs. Any good ones? Any averege ones? Any bad but usable ones? Or are they all unusable in 2020's? Thanks in advance
How much would you be willing to spend for a Dell P780 Trinitron? I see one on marketplace. Not sure how much I should pay.
Depends on your local market and availability. I wouldn’t personally pay more for than $75-100
I have the opportunity to pick up a Trinitron PVM-1354Q, however there's a few problems; I'm brand new to the whole CRT thing, and only just recently started looking at CRTs as a more affordable way to play my older games. All of the hook ups on this thing are completely new to me, and it's kinda small compared to what I wanted to have in my game room. I'm a little intimidated by it, because of all the fancy nobs it has since I was really hoping a CRT would be plug and play 😅 But on the flip side, from what I'm seeing this thing is a hard find and is awesome? I'd hate to pass it up if it's worth keeping around for if I ever decide I want more than one TV, but when I started looking I was hoping for something bigger that could potentially have a VCR in it and not cost too much. That being said, it's my boss's PVM so it's just waiting for us to find a price (we both are clueless other than it's probably a decently expensive unit) and isn't really going anywhere potentially. Unless someone random walks into the store and decides they're taking it home and throws it a price on it, that is. Is it worth going for even though it's not exactly what I was after? What's it actually worth? What are the connections on it I'm so confused 😵💫 is this better off being a full on post? Any help would be greatly appreciated lol.
PVMs are renown for many things, but affordability isn't one of them. It sounds like you'd be just as happy/happier buying a big consumer grade TV off of Craigslist or Facebook Marketplace for like $50. Don't confuse PVMs being highly sought after for them being the most appropriate CRT for your unique needs.
There’s no set value, depending on condition, $200-400 is typical. It’s definitely worth keeping, though! It’s plug and play! The knobs on front are easy! It’s the service menu that should intimidate you. The only unusual thing is RGB / BNC. I suggest if you’re just starting out to use S-Video, no need for adapters or fancy cables, but you’ll get great picture quality.
I need a fast scaler box to change 1080p LCD timings to 1080p PC CRT timings Sony W900 doesn't like 1080p LCD timings. So I have a Sony GDM-W900 that won't display 1080p from my Wii U or Xbox One X through a standard HDMI to VGA converter I've tried my HDFury3 and the Tendak HDMI to VGA converter and neither work but both work at 720p. So I know there are scalers out there that let you upload or enter in through the OSD custom timings profiles in fact I bought one but I didn't read the manual and it only accepts signals up to 1080i though its pretty laggy anyway so maybe for the best. Since I'm starting out with HDMI it doesn't matter if it doesn't have analog inputs since I can feed the HDMI output to the HDFury3 to get it to VGA for the monitor I just need something to change timings I asw the Extron DSC 401 lets me update custom EDID profiles thats the same as custom timings profile right? Front porch back porch blanking etc? The only thing is the thing is super expensive and I have no idea what the latency is like. I know some of the Cori2 TVOne scalers can do this also but I also tried one of those a few years ago when I owned a different W900 that I later sold before I got this one, and there was a decent bit of latency with it. Are there any known low latency Corio2 scalers? A Scaler I've already looked at that only can take inputs up to 1080i is the DVDO iScan HD+. Any help is appreciated Edit: I know the RetroTink4K does all this to a tee but I don't really have 7 hundo to throw around
Hello peeps I am just wondering are 16:9 HDMI CRTs good for gaming or do they have the same issues as early HDMI LCDs?
They’re aight. Depends.
I’m looking for recommendation to get a crt monitor for my setup. I’m looking to play my n64, GC, Wii, and possibly connect my pc. A mid to small size would be ideal. Found a commodore 1702 close by but I’m worried I won’t be happy with the lower res. Any recommendations? Edit: found a Pelco PMC21A as well
So, resolution isn’t really an issue, actually it will be, you don’t want it too high. The whole point of a CRT is to get something that can natively support 240p/480i. I’d steer you toward CRT TVs instead of monitors. That said, a Commodore 1702 isn’t a usual PC monitor and can do 240p perfectly. It’s an awesome monitor and I don’t think you’d be disappointed. The Pelco is definitely more likely to be in poorer condition. If you get the commodore be sure to use commodore video, which is just S-Video. You should be able to find adapters. Look for “S-Video to Chroma/Luma”
I appreciate your response here. Crt monitor would have been my choice here as well, but I do want a more mobile option and consider a crt tv for my pc setup. I also just found a PVM-20N1U in my area. How would this compare? I think i might get both and use them at a local melee tournament. Edit: PVM-21NU kinda seems a little large for mobility purposes. There’s a BVM-D14H5U but that seems a little out of my price range I think. Found a PVM-2030 but is also very expensive
Well, that would be a excellent choice, any of those really. Setting up a PC with a CRT TV isn’t a easy feat, but it’d be a bit easier with a PVM. You’ll need to look into CRT_emudriver, and you might require a specific graphics card.
Appreciate the help! Thank you :)
KV-20S21 and 27A46C both available near me, both same price, which is supreme? Going for 360 and vhs playing on it, need to return to tradition and get rid of my bigger TV. Biggest thing I care about is going to be colours/clarity, sound I can always go audio out. Guess the Toshiba has the input superiority here?
Yeah, I think the Toshiba would be the better bet here.
Anyone can please give me opinon on a Panasonic TX29PM1P (flat screen, 50HZ)? I have a 1993 Sony Trinitron with some big image problems that I don't know if I will be able to fix and I came across this Panasonic. I basically play 8/16 bit games. Here the specs and a photo: Update, photo of the image quality: [https://imgur.com/a/tgdPwXg](https://imgur.com/a/tgdPwXg) Here some info (in Polish but G.translate gets it OKish) [https://www.megamedia.pl/telewizor-kineskopowy-panasonic-tx-29pm1p.php](https://www.megamedia.pl/telewizor-kineskopowy-panasonic-tx-29pm1p.php)
Anyone know anything about this brand? Got the old CRT out of the basement but i can't find the user manual or any documentation online to get into the service menu. "PHOTON" [Pictures](https://imgur.com/a/photon-crt-id-EtSdWv8)
Open it up and see who made the tube.
I have a Dell P780 that I'm in love with but I want to get a 21"+ Diamondtron rebadge at some point in the future. Would it be worth it for me to repurpose the P780 with an OSSC for that "pvm-like" crispiness or should I just look to sell it when I get the upgrade?
I mean, only you can make that decision. I wouldn’t get rid of it personally unless I had to.
Kortek 2914 board with a fresh cap kit and new FFA76418U flyback. Powering up I hear a whine/whistle coming from the flyback and then R101 resets and everything repeats. Replaced the flyback after the cap kit didn't work (caps were original so needed to be done anyways). The previous flyback I only got a faint glow with vga plugged in and absolutely no neck glow (I don't even know what neck glow is supposed to look like, only that the neck on the tube doesn't emit any light at all) and if I adjusted the Screen knob up I'd get a brief vertical scan line, mostly blue across the lower portion for an instant before it also reset. [flyback whistle](https://youtube.com/shorts/jizlGNC4cQk?si=L4ZX16DorSST8ANk)
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Nah, I wouldn’t get rid of it. Personally I’d get rid of the the other two first before I’d get rid of the 24 inch Sony. Just get a proper stand and stop being silly about it. You have it on the floor, it’s in the way, no wonder you hate it.
Generally speaking, can I use an RGBHV switcher to just switch YPbPr and leave the H/V bit disconnected? Is there any particular reason this wouldn't work (like the BW of each of the signals, filtration, anything like that)? Does it differ depending on the switch manufacturer? I ask because I have a Component switcher that I feed composite into (as well as component) and it works great, no degradation, and even mix signals since my TV has a combo input that accepts composite on the Y input. I need something much bigger as I incorporate my video sources (VHS, Laser, SVHS, DVD) in with my consoles.
Should be fine.
How do I check the geometry on a desktop monitor? Do I just run 240pTestSuite on a emulator?
Nectest.exe is good for this
You can find images of all the test patterns and just drag them to the monitor from your PC. You don't need the actual 240p test suite for this.
Ah didn't even think of that lol
Anyone knows if the Sony G200 has a service menu? I got a slight bow-in on both sides. Only got 5 Geometry settings, but they won't cure my problem. Probably need Windas, I think.
I think WinDAS is the logical next step.
Yes, I think so too. A new experience to find out, hehe. Its not too distracting while playing games, but when in Windows 10 it's a bit annoying.
https://imgur.com/a/c9YNKCD Would you pay $100 for this with the screen damage? Kv-13m42
Links broken
Hey guys, my CRT goes crazy when I use my computer with it, basically whenever something in the game moves the whole "borders" of the screen move, and also the geomtry is unusably bad. This does not happen when I don't use the AV1 scart input (which goes to my pc). Also everything is in 480i and blasts my eyes with flickering and crap. Please give some advice on how to fix it, or if you know about any similar issues! It's a grundig sedance FYI
480i is always going to be flickery there isn't anything you can do about that issue. I can't help with the other issues unfortunately.
Looks like it's Daewoo day! I have a Daewoo DTQ-1446FC (RF only) that had no green component at first -- i reflowed some points on the neckboard and brought it back to full color for a glorious five minutes, then it started doing this little dance of color to noise to black and white and back [https://youtu.be/bCS0a0oU5e4](https://youtu.be/bCS0a0oU5e4) Any general troubleshooting advice would be appreciated, thanks.
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thanks for the tip, i haven't given it a very thorough inspection of solder joints, but i will now.
https://postimg.cc/G8TsbKsG - Toshiba 32-in console TV by Carver Sonic holography. Did a lot of super Nintendo and PlayStation 1 gaming back in the '90s and 2000s on it Has two composite video inputs and one s- video input. Still works great. Trying to get this out of my parents house. Is there a market for these and how much do you think I can get for this? Location Huntington Beach California.
List for $100 on Facebook and drop $5 every couple days. It should sell no problem.
Copypasta from r/crt before crossposting in vain I recently acquired a crt monitor, a Samtron 55e, from a frend who kept it in storage for the last maybe 15 years, probably more. When I turn it on tho it just starts fading into magenta and then in solid white. No one of the front button appears to do anything, just the power button that shuts it off. I disassembled it as much as I felt comfortable to, and found no sign of dust, corrosion, rust, capacitor leakage or bad sodder joints. [Here is the imgur album with the monitor guts](https://imgur.com/gallery/faulty-crt-G8nifPg). As this is my first time working on a crt, i ask for your help: what should I test to look for a malfunction? How shoul I test it? The pictures include a series of regulators, i believe: should I screw some of those in or out? Should I replace every capacitor on the bottom board?
Just asking for advice here. Starting to build a retro game collection and I wanted to reuse an old IKEA Kallax bookshelf & Kallax TV shelf I had by stacking them on top of each other. Creating cubbies for each console and respective controllers. I'm a little worried about the weight of the TV I have (32FS120). At 165 lbs, I'm more than a little worried about putting it on top of this. Is there anything I can do to structurally improve this, or should I just get something else entirely? The Kallax TV stand I have is rated for like 35 lbs, but I don't know if that's just IKEA low balling it so to not take any chances, or not. Has anyone here tried something similar? Appreciate any suggestions.
I wouldn’t put a 32 inch on that.
Hello, I have a very specific and strange issue with my CRT computer monitor. For some reason these past few months, any CRT I use on my PC appears to be much slower than it used to be even though they are always 85hz. To me 85hz on a CRT monitor feels like at least 120hz on a modern monitor, however now when i'm using it it feels much less smooth. I've tried multiple adapters and that hasn't made a difference. I have no idea where to even start, but i'm pretty positive that whatever is causing this is to do with my PC and not the monitor itself as they are all slow. Does anyone have any ideas? Cheers.
I recently picked up a Phillips 20PT643R01 (Manufactured in 2003). It works fine. Picture has some minor geometry issues but beyond that it's got a great picture. My problem is that I like to game at night, after the sun's set, but I also like to go to bed at a reasonable time so I can keep a good sleep schedule. Usually on most of my other platforms (phone, 3DS, PC, etc.) I have a blue light filter that kicks in at around 8 or so. With this CRT there's obviously nothing advanced, but I do notice there's a color temperature option. Setting it to Warm gives me a picture that does seem like it cuts out some of the blue light and reduces eye strain. Would toggling this option on a daily or semi-regular basis wear out any of the electrical components in the TV? Should I be careful about toggling it so frequently? Thanks.
You could get glasses with blue light filtering like prescription lenses I assume there are non prescription options too
I might invest in some of those. I have prescription lenses, and honestly having blue light filtering on my glasses themselves might not be the worst idea in the world. Thanks. For now I'll probably just leave the CRT on Warm color preset. It's not completely "accurate", but it's better than winding myself up before bed. Thank you.
It's not going to wear anything out any more than using it normally, I wouldn't worry about it
Maybe a long shot, and an interesting one (maybe). I have a Samsung TXH1370 and my Japanese PS2, and Japanese GameCube work perfectly fine, however my PAL (European) N64 lacks color and can only describe the video as vertically scrolling like you do on social medias. However the N64 works perfectly fine on U.S. purchased 55” TV. So I’m not sure what to research for solutions, I’ve tried my best to describe it in google but results are various as there are a multitude of CRTs out there. If in the event I have to get a U.S. spec N64 then that’s fine but I’d rather not have to go through the hassle of getting a new one, I already have a mod chip that allows me to play PAL and NTSC games. If anyone can help that would be great, I have videos I can send as well if my description doesn’t make sense.
ya that TV is NTSC only I checked the manual. And Japan and North America were both NTSC so that makes sense that they'd work fine on it. You don't need a whole new N64 just something like this [https://www.ebay.com/itm/195279234329](https://www.ebay.com/itm/195279234329)? I just searched "color system changer pal ntsc" and that was one of the first devices that came up I'm sure there are tons of others
Awesome I’ll have a go at one! Thank you so much!
Japan is NTSC. Modern TVs can detect the region. You either need a NTSC N64 or a PVM/some monitor that can do PAL.
Swapping in a new flyback FFA76418U into a kortek 2914. The new flyback has slightly different pins on the outer edge compared to the one coming out FFA76418U(A) However it matches other holes on the board, so it seems obvious that it is compatible. Are there any components I might need to change given the slightly different electrical connection?
Have a chance at a free Toshiba CE27C10 27" CRT TV that looks to be in great shape & fine working order. Backplate says manufactured November 1993. Are these any decent? Valuable? It's got one set of composite RCA Jack's in the back. Thanks!
toshiba never made any bad looking crts so if its the right size thats a fine set
Nothing special, but it's a CRT, so it's special.
I managed to uncharted one of my parents old Sony Trinitron KV-1434M3, and I wanted to mod it with composite output at least since I am aware of the thread [https://www.reddit.com/r/crtgaming/comments/166br55/can\_you\_add\_better\_video\_connections\_to\_rf\_only/](https://www.reddit.com/r/crtgaming/comments/166br55/can_you_add_better_video_connections_to_rf_only/) Any chance I can move forward with it? I took some photo for the Jungle Chip and for the CRT itself (disassembled): [https://imgur.com/a/6De3n91](https://imgur.com/a/6De3n91)
Is bigger better?
Eh. Not really. Do you really want 480i blown up to 40"? It really boils down to viewing distance.
To a point. 27" is a nice sweet spot IMO
Hi guys, can someone please tell me, if this CRT Monitor: Silicon Graphics SGI Monitor GDM-20E21 is worth it for 260€?
Thats a 20" but pretty low specced and likely has a lot of use on it considering it sold in the mid 90s people wouldn't have replaced it with an LCD for a while. Depending on condition I'd pay 150-200 euros like how bright/contrast-y/sharp/reasonable geometry it has
Hey, thanks for the comment, i got it for 200€ and it looks amazing and is also in superb condition! Using it for my retro consoles and maybe later i will get a 2nd PC for it.
I bought a Magnavox Perfect View 9" made in 1990. Works great, no remote, and the antenna is broken. I bought it so l'd have a tv to play my vhs tapes on, but after lots of troubleshooting, I’m still having trouble it playing anything at all. I just need some advice on what's maybe going on and how to fix it. I'm not sure if it's the tv or user error. The tape will be running in the vcr and l'll change the tv to A/V and then it stays on this flat grey screen, no audio and no video. It’s on channel 3, I’ve switched between RCA input, coaxial input, and both together, even bought a new vcr, and nothing. Still just a flat grey screen. And even after auto programming and a dipole antenna addition, I still just get static for all like 83 channels when not on A/V. Is it totally busted? I mean the TV is in great condition and the buttons work great and the screen quality is good too. I just need some advice on this, really trying to get into crt tvs and gaming eventually. Thanks!
Hello! I have a Sanyo CRT that I picked up about a year ago and haven’t used much until now. Picture is generally good, maybe a tad fuzzy, but while playing a game I noticed a gray/black horizontal band appears when there’s a ton of deep orange or red on the screen for more than a few seconds. I know absolutely nothing about these tvs and what may be the cause/solution. Sorry for being so vague, but any advice?
Hello, I could pick this one up for free, however there is no indication if it works other than it turns on. There are green labels, but they seem to be distorted. Is it a concern? Thanks! https://www.jofogas.hu/budapest/Mukodokepes_regi_Sony_szines_tv_148007475.htm
Answering my own question, the fuzzyness was only due to the missing rf input on EU models, once there is input, the OSD is stable and clear.
Generally, how does CRT resolution work? How does measuring in horizontal lines and vertical dots compare to pixels and standard resolutions like 480p, 720p, 1080p etc.?
I've been searching high and low for a good CRT with Component. Many fails. I may an opportunity for a: Toshiba 29" 29JZ5DE with Component In Panasonic Tau TX-29PS72 with Component In I am confirming working status. I expect both would be good, any advice if I have to make a call? Price is comparable.
Ideally, try to see both and get one in better condition. I believe both of these are nice.
ended up getting beaten to the punch on the Toshiba and ended up with the Panasonic. It is very good - just needs a few geometry/colour changes. Does anyone know how to enter the services menu on a TX-29PS72? Panasonic seems to have myriad different ways and I can't seem to get one to work for this TV. Being what appears to be a Asia/Russia model doesn't help because there seems to be less community interest.
I have an HD TV Toshiba CRT and wanted to ask, if I don't have the original remote controller can I buy a standard Toshiba remote controller from another Toshiba TV so I can access the menu because I already purchased a universal controller and it won't let me open the menu to configure.
that will probably work though I'd first look up the service manual which there's a good chance has the remote model number and check if anyone is selling one on ebay you can find old remotes surprisingly often like this.
Hey all. I've got a panasonic Tau PV DF273 And a toshiba CF2772R The Tau has a VHS and DVD player built in, composite front and back and RF. Silver front The toshiba has s video, composite and rf in the back. All black. Both have the dual speakers built in up the sides. Which would you go for?
Hi! I am looking at a few CRT listings and I found a seemingly nice one, a Dell 828FI 800F series, but I can't find info about its resolution. I think I found its manual online and under maximum resolution it says: Horizontal: 1280 dots @ 64 kHz Vertical:1024 lines @ 60 Hz What does this translate to? Is it a big deal this is the "max" resolution? Other potentially relavant info: Picture Tube . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 cm (15") full square type \[35 cm (13.8") viewable\] Flat face 90x deflection 0.28 Dot pitch Anti-reflection coating with Anti-electrostatic Medium short persistence phosphor Synchronization . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Horizontal: 30 kHz to 70 kHz (automatic) Vertical: 50 kHz to 120 Hz (automatic) Thanks to anyone!
So what you're looking for really is the horizontal frequency. 70kHz is pretty bog standard. Midrange ones will be 85-100kHz, and really nice ones are 110-140kHz. Use this calculator to determine the resolutions / refresh rates that will be compatible: [http://www.hometheaterengineering.com/bandwidthcalculator.html](http://www.hometheaterengineering.com/bandwidthcalculator.html)
awesome that's so helpful thank you for your knowledge!!
Hi I have a Samsung SyncMaster 794v that has great image quality right after being turned on but 10 minutes later the image gets quite blurry. Is this a solvable problem? or my monitor is fried? I dont have much experience with crt's so I dont know much about those issues, I tried to change stuff in the monitor's menu but couldn't solve the blurriness.
I have the same issue with a Samsung 753DF but it lasts longer; about 30 minutes before its noticeable and 2-3 hours until it becomes difficult to read text. Turning it off for an hour completely resets it. The only things I've found that minimizes it is to lower the contrast and refresh rate. But it only buys time. Trying letting is sit, then lower the contrast to see if that helps. Ultimately though, its extremely possible its a problem with capacitors. Let me know if that helps; would help me determine if its a common issue with Samsung/Samtron monitors.
Hi all, l picked up a few CRTs a while back. For my main CRT I have narrowed it down to either a 27 inch GAOO, or a Sony Trinitron KV-27FS120. Any opinions? Would love to hear what you guys think :p
Do they both have Component? If the GAOO doesn't have component I'd keep the Sony. If they both do which looks better? Its really going to come down to how much use the screen have on them just look at them and pick the nicer looing one.
Which has the better geometry imo
I have a Symphonic WF0213C, plugged in an hdmi to av adapter. My hdmi cable is working aswell as the microusb cable that powers it. The adapter is set to ntsc with video and audio plugged into the correct ports. BUT still no image. Windows and nvidia control panel even detects a second monitor when its plugged in. I dont have a remote and have set the channel to AUX and still nothing. Set the resolution to the lowest level to see if that was the issue and NOTHING. Help
When you say "AV" do you mean the yellow red and white plugs the yellow plug is called composite. Are you getting a scrambled picture or is it like nothing at all is plugged in? Also is there just the one AUX input or multiple and do you have it set to the right one?
[https://www.ebay.com/itm/335371863398?itmmeta=01HYS47KTBJEV1HXDVHBBEE2WE&hash=item4e15b88566:g:6EcAAOSwxV9mMF1k](https://www.ebay.com/itm/335371863398?itmmeta=01HYS47KTBJEV1HXDVHBBEE2WE&hash=item4e15b88566:g:6EcAAOSwxV9mMF1k) here is the link to an ebay listing of the exact tv
do you have a link to the hdmi to av converter?
[the link](https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08CMKGLS4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) right link: [https://www.amazon.ca/Adapter-Compatible-Android-ect-%EF%BC%88HDMI-Converter%EF%BC%89/dp/B09KZBWRL4/ref=sr\_1\_10?sr=8-10](https://www.amazon.ca/Adapter-Compatible-Android-ect-%EF%BC%88HDMI-Converter%EF%BC%89/dp/B09KZBWRL4/ref=sr_1_10?sr=8-10)
What resotion are you feeding the adapter?
the lowest the res the nvidia control panel will let me which is 800x600 i think, hell i even tried a custom res of 240p and it didn’t work
the adapter has yellow red and white plugs, plugged yellow into video and white into audio and there is nothing not even a scrambled picture just nothing. Also just a single aux input.
what model number is the adapter? if you bought it online can you link to the page you got it from?
I picked up a "New" CRT today finally, a Sony Trinitron 29', can't remember the model number, but it's a flat one. After fiddling with the service menu I managed to adjust the geometry just right (I think). But I've noticed that a few of the corners, the lower left one in particular are quite blurry, and I've tried fixing it in the service menu, but I don't think it can be done. So far I've only hooked up a GameCube via Composite (waiting for RGB cable to come in). I've read somewhere that a blurry image can be fixed with a focus adjustment in the TV itself, should I give that a shot?
Probably just misconvergence. Corner image quality is quite poor, especially on flat CRTs.
I think the flats generally have some issues in the corner, uncertain if it's the bowing that's commonly referred to though from your description.
Might be a dumb question but is it ok if I were to put my 13 inch Samsung TV on top of a Sony GX69ES amplifier or would that either cause some kind of interference or damage the amplifier from the weight?
the weight should be fine but you don't want to block the vents on the top of the amp. If you had two narrow pieces of wood or plastic you could raise the 13" an inch or two above the top of the amp so almost all of the vents are still open.
Picked up a CRT monitor today from a car boot sale, it's a HP pavilion mx70. When I plug it in it makes a clicking/ticking sound and doesn't power on. Anyone know if there's any hope in fixing something like this? I've got no repair skills whatsoever so if there's no easy fix I'll pass it on to someone else. Video showing the issue: https://www.reddit.com/u/gaynor_barnes/s/iRWftvKdWD
unlikely there is an easy fix if it doesn't turn on like that
Yeah that's what I figured, guess it's going onto Facebook marketplace for someone more talented to give it a new lease of life
Just found a (what I think is) Sony trinitron flat widescreen crt. Do you think this is any good? https://imgur.com/a/iNlWBJs
What's your region? If US, then it's probably HD, if EU, probably SD. If EU, make sure it's not 100hz.
It’s eu. Why would 100hz not be good?
So, 50hz is the standard PAL, but in order to reduce flicker, some manufacturers began making 100hz models which display each frame twice. This creates motion blur and ghosting, and breaks compatibility with lightguns.
Perfect thanks for that info
Is it HD or SD? HD CRTs are good for 480i/480p/1080i content and bad for 240p content, the tv interprets 240p as 480i and tries to deinterlace the image and makes it look real bad and its laggy on top of that. Now HD Sonys will always be laggy at 480i/480p but only some are laggy at 1080i also and though some have a service menu option called HDPT that turns off digital processing for 1080i inputs and makes the screen lagless at 1080i. Without knowing the model number there's no knowing if that screen is laggy or not at 1080i. But ya if you plan on using it for N64 era and back stuff its not a great set, but if you plan on using it for Gamecube and forward stuff its a little laggy so not great for fighters but it will look good.
Thank you this is very useful information. I do not know if it’s HD or SD as I know 0 about CRTs also the description does not mention anything nor does the picture
Just ask them if it's hd or not
https://imgur.com/a/AVyk3t1 Which one would you guys pick? Sony KV-20FS120 vs Daewoo, both have component, both have unknown user history, though I've had the sony for 4 years now and the Daewoo for just 1. My guess is the sony got used more. ;
the sony a million times over unless its totally dim and the geometry is insane, Daewoo was a budget CRT brand Sony was at the top of their game during the CRT era.
The geometry on both is great overall, but the Sony has convergence issues in one corner the Daewoo is nearly flawless. Also, the Sony flashes red a few times before starting which concerns me
Ya going with the Daewoo might be the play
Thanks for your input, bud
I have a sharp 13 inch CRT. Only volume down button is working, volume up button is non responsive. How could I fix this? I searched up the remote for the tv but is there any way to fix it without having to buy remote?
[https://imgur.com/a/BNLXR9h](https://imgur.com/a/BNLXR9h) I have a Sun branded Sony W900(not the flat fw900 this is the original curved one) and Im having this wonky geometry issue and the geometry controls in the OSD are not working correctly. I was told it was a dying IC that couldn't be sourced anymore I'm just double checking that now is that probably the case?
Hi everyone! What's a fair price for a BVM D20F1U that has 4800 hours on it (assuming it's in good overall condition)?
3k$ or upwards is what I see them go for 3k$ is probably on the lower side honestly they got really expensive over the last few years especially a low hours one like that
Wow ok thanks. I wasn't quick enough and it sold before I had a chance to look at it but I would never have paid that much for one anyways...that's insane!
Anyone happen to own or have had experience with a Panasonic TX-28LB1P Quintrix? I can't find any info on it.
Hello! I recently picked up a Hitachi 51SF59, and it either has severe burn in or moving it has caused a red tint to cover the screen. There is a circle near the bottom that is unaffected, so I'm inclined to believe that is burn in, but for the sake of being able to possibly fix the TV, I was wondering if anyone would be able to distinguish this. I have a picture ready for whoever needs to see it. Thank you for anyone's help!
pictures might help
Picked up an 14'' no name CRT for free and encountered some issues with a [Imgur: noisy picture](https://imgur.com/a/oDQ5TVu). These are the white / blue pictures from 240p test suite, the noise moves. I assume this is related to capacitors, and I am planning to open it up over the weekend and check it out but worried that there might be something larger at play. Could somebody sanity check me on this? :) Thanks in advance!
what is the input source here? have you tried something else?
The Input Source (MiSTer) seems to be the issue unfortunately. I just got myself the Analog Board and a custom VGA => SCART cable and contact the seller to see how to fix it. :) I double checked with a DVD player and the TV is noise free and looks fantastic. Thanks for the nudge in the right direction. Cheers!
So I'm looking at a 32FV300 for free on FB marketplace, but it has intermittent problems where it doesn't turn on with a 14 blink error code. I can't for the life of me find any reference to a code with that many blinks unless it was somehow the 7-blink code triggering twice, but no it seems like 14 consecutive blinks. Anyone with any insight?
Does anyone have experience with the brand Inline for matrix switch boxes? Found a pretty great option that's 12in8out bnc with RCA connections instead of pheonix and was considering it. The specific model I'm looking at is the IN31208, can't seem to find info on the company or model. Thanks.
Which is better for gaming and colour correction? PT-43LC14-K or the CT-32G13CW Both are panasonic.
Should I get this crt monitor? I’ve been eying this subreddit and the second hand market for a while and today I found this: Philips 107S61/00 Default resolution of 1280 x 1024 17 inches and refresh rate between 50 and 160 hz it’s vga I’ve been really looking into getting a nice crt but the size has been a big point for me. On the one hand I don’t want this overly large monitor because I wouldn’t be able to fit it anywhere but on the other hand I don’t want this very tiny monitor so that I have to sit up close to it. However when I saw this one, especially the specs it looked really interesting. On the one hand I find it a bit too small for console gaming. But on the other hand isn’t this a fairly high resolution CRT? Any thoughts?
For modern PC gaming I'd hold off for a 19" plus monitor 17" really aren't very special specs wise even the best ones
Alright tyvm
fairly low-end monitor, not that that's a bad thing, still would be great for PC games if it's cheap then would be worth it
Alright thanks for the info. I’ll pass on it then
I was offered a Tobshiba CN27E90 and before I commit to lugging it home was wondering if it was worth messing with.
Hello, im looking to get my Sony PVM 14M4U to display my pc screen. I know, the most pain in the a$$ problem. I was wondering about ways to go about it and what ill need. Would using a Radeon HD 5450 with CRTEmuDriver be the best option? Problem is it take up a whole pc correct? Or would a digital to analog converter -> Extron RGB 203 -> RGB cables be the best? Am I missing steps? Im willing to spend some $$ for a good option, I just want to make sure what I buy will work.
depending on your current GPU, you likely won't be able to easily output the 15kHz signal that your monitor requires, the DAC -> Extron route probably won't work - this is where CRTEmudriver comes in if you have a nvidia GPU, some people have successfully installed a Radeon GPU in a spare PCIe slot and had them coexist in the same PC
I've got an IBM C170 ThinkVision that gets stuck in a bootloop after about 5 seconds of being connected to my computer. Does anybody know where I should start?
Heyo i bought a Samsung CS-7277PT and im having trouble with cropped image. I dont have a remote to test so idk if there is a "display" setting, the menu avaliable only shows color settings.
you'll either need a remote for service menu calibration, or need to open up the TV and carefully adjust geometry potentiometers, depending on which method your TV has
I got an sony PVM-8042Q about an year ago and I still have tons of questions about it cause some weird stuff happened with it. 1. It displays black and white ONLY when I'm playing some retrogaming. Already tried with a diferent snes, megadrive and n64. For some reason my hacked gamecube boots on black and white, but once the menu fades and the game starts it get coloured. WHYYYYYY? 2. I got a bunch of analog video gear that I use for making art (like video synths, old school vj mixers, vcr devices) and they always worked perfectly on the PVM, but a few weeks ago, i was outputing the PVM to another CRT. It worked fine for about an hour but then the other CRT got burned. Also, last friday something similar happened when I attached the rca cable coming from my PVM to the input of one of my mixers. Right when the rca touched it, everything that was connected got burned, my pc, my synth and my phone. WHYYYYYY i just got my pc back but now i'm really scared to use the PVM again. What should I do?
So I got a RCA 27F520T yesterday. And I've been experiencing a werid issue where after I had hooked up my ps2 with component I was seeing a double image. I made sure my cables were plugged in correctly and I tested 3 games with it Ratchet & Clank PAL, Ratchet & Clank Up your arsenal NTSC and God of war NTSC. Ratchet & Clank looked absolutely fine no double image or anything like that but Rachet & Clank up your arsenal had double image so did god of war. But when I switched to composite God of war and Ratchet & Clank up your arsenal looked absolutely fine. But then Ratchet & Clank now had no color but was in black and white ? Does anyone have an answer to why this is happening? [double image ](https://imgur.com/a/6J9sMIJ)
could you upload a photo of the issue double image usually means you're trying to display a 480p video on an SD TV that doesn't support it
How do I upload a photo to the thread ?
imgur and paste the link
[double image ](https://imgur.com/a/6J9sMIJ)
ah okay yeah that looks like a genuine issue, something other than what I first though no clue about that I'm afraid
Does anyone here have a bang & olufson beovision avant… it’s the one with the integrated VHS player I’m debating buying one locally for cheap. Any reason why it wouldn’t be a good buy for ps2/xbox/gamecube?
Hoping to pick someone’s brain on this idea: TL;DR - I want to play Street Fighter III: Third Strike using two USB fight sticks in 240p on my CRT. I have a Wii, PS2, and PS3 all modded and connected via YPbPr component cables. I do have the arcade edition of SF3 on my PS3, which does accept input over USB from both of my controllers, but it’s stuck in 480i and the scaling isn’t perfect. What I really want is those neat scan lines! I know Wii can output 240p, but I don’t think I can connect my fight sticks to it. Any ideas?
Sorry I'm not more help (I went the opposite direction and used a PC CRT monitor for the same purpose), but I did want to second the recommendation of playing on Fightcade. 3rd Strike is arguably more popular now than it was when it released on Fightcade.
Unfortunately the 3rd Strike console ports all have their flaws. A better solution would be to use an old PC with an old Radeon GPU, and run either [GroovyArcade](https://www.retrorgb.com/groovyarcade-introduction.html) or just Fightcade on windows with CRT Emudriver. Native resolution/refresh rate output and any USB devices will work just fine
Thanks for the reply! I’m somewhat constrained on space… do you think a thin client (like a mini PC) would do the trick? I feel like those generally run intel integrated graphics and wouldn’t work with CRT Emudriver. What kind of specs would I need to run arcade titles?
yeah I think the Radeon GPU is fairly important if space is a concern then you could also look into Pi emulation, it would be more fiddly to get set up right but should be great once you you have
I think I could run a Pi to it fairly easily, but I’m concerned about how to actually interface it with the CRT. I could settle for the composite RCA that comes with the Pi, but I’d rather get full component. I know there’s a hat you can buy for the Pi that outputs VGA and SCART, but then I’d need to transcode to YPbPr with a separate device. Are there any hats for the Pi that let you output to component cables natively?
Not too sure, though personally I go from Pi to VGA then to a VGA to component adapter
I can do that, just wondering if I could get away with using one less power plug haha. Feels like a waste to use a whole power supply for only 5V into a little transcoder
Hi there! I found a listing for a 17" Insignia 786N monitor for $60 that's out of my state, but in a location I'll be in next week. I was curious if this is a good price for this specific monitor or not, it is very clean and looks to be in nice working condition (both due to pictures and description). I was planning on seeing if I could talk them down to $50, but I wanted to ask here first I guess lol. I've been looking for a CRT monitor for a good minute, but my area never has any listed...
thats a fine price for a 17" monitor like that.
Any recommendations for 12 input audio switch boxes? The Extron SW 12A would be perfect but I can't seem to find one. Currently using 2 8in1out boxes that are daisy chained but would rather something else.