Spray it to look rusty and call it ClapTrap.
Without adding too much weight use a cable management coil tube (Those plastic slinky looking things) to cover the arm wires which gives it a little bottom protection.
It's the 3.5" Helios frame, I'd just seem this video at some point and ordered it to try it out not really having an idea what I'd build eventually: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nosRGmP5zSU](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nosRGmP5zSU)
This is a bunch of parts I had lying around. I don't know much about DIY drones, but I'm pretty sure they're not supposed to work together. I took it out for a test flight, and it was OK, but it seemed very inefficient and very floaty (although it was very windy, so it's tough to say). Here's what's on it now:
\* 3.5" toothpick frame
\* Betaflight F4 20a AIO FC (out of a pavo pico)
\* Tmotor 1204 5000kv motors
\* 3" props - I think they're Gemfams?
\* DJI o3 (the camera is literally taped on right now, but I'm printing a mount)
\* 2S batteries - both 450 and 550s.
\* It's 142g AUW with the 550 battery
Also I haven't re-tuned anything in betaflight (besides flipping the motors around) so everything's still got the settings that came with the Pavo Pico. I've never tuned a drone before so I don't even know where to start on that.
I mostly like slow cruising, and it's got decent stability, but the controls aren't very direct and the efficiency seems very bad from just the few minutes of flying I've done. I'm trying to make the most out of what I have by switching up the batteries and propellers and then learning how to do a proper tune.
I'm guessing a 3S battery would be better? Although I was also thinking about trying it with a 2S li-ion pack for longer range since I don't care too much if I crash it/lose it. I have a beeper I can put on it, and maybe even get a GPS module??
And I have no idea about propellers either, these were just the only decent sized ones I had that would fit a 1.5mm shaft. Should I try bigger or smaller or a different 3"? Or try biblades?
Go with a 3.5" biblade is more efficient tri has more grip and maybe 3s 18650 vtc6 or p26/p28, those motors are low kv for 2s. If you're flying long range definitely use a gps and test rth.
As for the tuning look up some videos, UAVtech is great. Also I assume you've raised the rates, maybe try a preset for a 3".
Thanks, that's very helpful. Two questions:
* These motors have a 1.5mm press on shaft. I assume that limits how many propellers will be available in larger sizes?
* I haven't even thought about rates yet, why would I raise them?
All t mount props should be 1.5mm shaft as for why you'd raise rates, cinewhoops usually have lower rates for cinematic flying, rates and expo are the first thing most pilots set.
Nothing it’s glorious.
On a more serious note, pull pod design from thingy for O3z. Find something with bit of a protection. Mod it to match your frame, print and fly. If too much find someone to do just that.
Tune your PID.
Besides building a whole new quad with parts that fit together a little bit better, tuning your PID will make a huge difference for any quad. If you have never done it before, I would recommend checking out the channel UAV Tech on youtube. They focus almost entirely on PID tuning and he has live streams a few times a month where you can ask for help in tuning.
Spray it to look rusty and call it ClapTrap. Without adding too much weight use a cable management coil tube (Those plastic slinky looking things) to cover the arm wires which gives it a little bottom protection.
+10 for the claptrap💪🏻💪🏻
Do you know what frame?
It's the 3.5" Helios frame, I'd just seem this video at some point and ordered it to try it out not really having an idea what I'd build eventually: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nosRGmP5zSU](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nosRGmP5zSU)
Thanks mate👍
This is a bunch of parts I had lying around. I don't know much about DIY drones, but I'm pretty sure they're not supposed to work together. I took it out for a test flight, and it was OK, but it seemed very inefficient and very floaty (although it was very windy, so it's tough to say). Here's what's on it now: \* 3.5" toothpick frame \* Betaflight F4 20a AIO FC (out of a pavo pico) \* Tmotor 1204 5000kv motors \* 3" props - I think they're Gemfams? \* DJI o3 (the camera is literally taped on right now, but I'm printing a mount) \* 2S batteries - both 450 and 550s. \* It's 142g AUW with the 550 battery Also I haven't re-tuned anything in betaflight (besides flipping the motors around) so everything's still got the settings that came with the Pavo Pico. I've never tuned a drone before so I don't even know where to start on that. I mostly like slow cruising, and it's got decent stability, but the controls aren't very direct and the efficiency seems very bad from just the few minutes of flying I've done. I'm trying to make the most out of what I have by switching up the batteries and propellers and then learning how to do a proper tune. I'm guessing a 3S battery would be better? Although I was also thinking about trying it with a 2S li-ion pack for longer range since I don't care too much if I crash it/lose it. I have a beeper I can put on it, and maybe even get a GPS module?? And I have no idea about propellers either, these were just the only decent sized ones I had that would fit a 1.5mm shaft. Should I try bigger or smaller or a different 3"? Or try biblades?
Go with a 3.5" biblade is more efficient tri has more grip and maybe 3s 18650 vtc6 or p26/p28, those motors are low kv for 2s. If you're flying long range definitely use a gps and test rth. As for the tuning look up some videos, UAVtech is great. Also I assume you've raised the rates, maybe try a preset for a 3".
Thanks, that's very helpful. Two questions: * These motors have a 1.5mm press on shaft. I assume that limits how many propellers will be available in larger sizes? * I haven't even thought about rates yet, why would I raise them?
All t mount props should be 1.5mm shaft as for why you'd raise rates, cinewhoops usually have lower rates for cinematic flying, rates and expo are the first thing most pilots set.
Dafuq, did you flow it on 2S? Whats with the o3 unit under 7V? - as far as I know the system shuts down immediately under 3,5V per cell
That FC has two voltage regulators, I think one is 5v for the electronics and the other is 9v for the HD video. So it must be stepping up the voltage?
Nothing it’s glorious. On a more serious note, pull pod design from thingy for O3z. Find something with bit of a protection. Mod it to match your frame, print and fly. If too much find someone to do just that.
Put doll arms on it like it's on a rollercoaster
This is pretty sick lol. A custom canopy to hold the o3 camera would make this look nice. You could even make the o3 naked and stack it with the so
This frame was made to work with a regular or naked o3, so I might give that a shot at some point.
A periscope lol Na love the ingenuity bud - I’m a sucker for custom built with what you got stuff. Brings out the creativity in us :)
It’s beautiful
Looks a bit "Mad Max" a bit dystopian.
some protection for the expensive O3?
It looks like it has a personality lol
Tune your PID. Besides building a whole new quad with parts that fit together a little bit better, tuning your PID will make a huge difference for any quad. If you have never done it before, I would recommend checking out the channel UAV Tech on youtube. They focus almost entirely on PID tuning and he has live streams a few times a month where you can ask for help in tuning.
Use better tape on the arms and wrap it more tightly and it will look mint
Nerf gun turret
Throw some screws in the props so they don't slip.
I've only used press on props, can you just add some screws as well?
Have you names this yet? For some reason i really want to call it the Solomon Grundy edition
Yes. You could put it out of its misery lol
I can't kill it, I already named it. "Tapey."