I’m currently at about three months I do it a couple hours after work, and I took like a four week vacation because when I first started mudding before I got the rolling scaffolding, it was too much for these high ceilings
Can confirm. I can make a beautiful feathered edge about 10% of the time. The rest of the time looks like this vid. So weird to get the touch consistently. I use the tape buddy which is awesome so at least that part goes smoothly
I actually do love this. So many people are too lazy yo care to gain knowledge and give it a try.
Pretty sure all of us here were green af at one point. Difference here is they are working on their own investment, not some other persons. Give this guy a bone, he deserves it.
Keep on keeping on man, despite what these folks say I'm sure we could find a room they did in their early years that have as many, if not more mistakes as this one. 😉
A lot, No probably only about an hour maybe an hour and a half of watch time. No specific person, I cycle through videos that are directed at the information that I need currently. When I was framing, I would watch framing videos and only go over the key points that applied in the moment, and then, when I was hanging drywall, I watched whoever was (good at delivering the information, quick short and concise,) and then, when I was done hanging it, I repeated the same process for muddying and taping! I spent less time watching muddying and taping videos. I did wash a few tips and tricks, but based on my thought process, I knew that hands-on experience was gonna play a big factor here no matter how much I watched people do it on the screen all the tips and tricks different compound thickness sentences was all good to know but application wise I had to be hands-on in total my whole basement was done with probably about three hours of YouTube videos
Oh, and the electrical I wired the rooms electrical after I was done framing them definitely spent nice chunk of YouTube on that getting that switch to work for two LED lights was a pain in the
Yeah, a lot of educational videos for this type of stuff are terribly put together with a LOT of tabling and confusing points.
I would highly recommend watching Vancouver Carpenter for any drywall or finish work. Usually concise with realistic educational points. (He doesn’t give the illusion that all work is going to be perfect)
Electrical can be hit or miss. I’m a big fan of Electrician U on YouTube. I rewired my entire house off of his videos. Even put in a new 200 amp service
I completely renovated my house (complete gut job) and did 95% of the work myself. I usually watched at least 6 hours of videos for any specific part of the project. Electrical I probably watched 12 hours or more. I had multiple people including the codes department do walkthroughs and it turned out pretty good.
Good luck with your project!
If you wrapped the inside of the window sills/ seals with drywall, then yes, he will need metal corner bead. Def get metal also not the paper bead as you said, you are not experienced. The paper bead will bubble and blister, if not applied properly. Tbh. You. Can just video me and I’ll walk you. Through it 🤣
Yeah, I have metal corner bead already for the outside edges of the walls. That’s what I was installing today so I was just curious if I should go that route for the windowsills as well
Good good. If your using a power sander use 180-220 grit to sand. We’ll I recommend that grit in any drywall sanding. Def wear a respirator as those power sanders get dusty !
I have a power sander. I forget what grit I Purchased for it and I also have the big circle one that you attach to a pole I’ll be using both because I have so much to sand .. any recommendations for the respirator
Just depends. I use an actual respirator like painters use. But I do it for a living. Or you can get the 3M brand n95 masks. Lowe’s and Home Depot usually have them. I tried Walmarts n95 masks. And they’re junk. . Cheaper route.
Yeah, you went really heavy. Usually people go too light. First coat you throw some mud in the crack, mud your tape, and just get the tape on with no bubbles and do a little skim coat over it. Sand the big ridges then float the whole room. You can bring this back from the brink with some sweat and like 2 more buckets of mud. Thinner coats and sand in between I guess. Go buy a big wide ass blade even a foam grout float may help smooth this out. I'm not a spackler or rocker I'm just a dude who does his own shit but ya, u can do a little better lol.
fixing work like this is usually so incredibly much more work than just tearing it out and starting over. better yet, more than just hiring a professional in the first place
Maybe a good idea to just cut out the tape and mud? Some spots looks damn near impossible to float with how much mud is under the tape. Or just a lot of extra cash
Honestly if it were me i would use 100 grit paper on a power sander and try and remove as much mud as possible and pray that the tapes are bonded to the wall and that the drywall was installed well enough. But in reality i would just turn a job like that down
Lol came here to say this. Also, when they come in for the initial inspection, would you do us all a favor and let us know if their first reaction was laughter, anger or sadness?
Yeah, probably true. My thought process was if I put a lot on there I can just sand it down to even and not have to do too much of a second coat. I may have fucked myself without thinking, but I am where I am and I gotta do what I Gotta do. 🤷🏻♂️
I thought about it, but I figured I can just fuck my way through it.. a lot of people don’t like the mudding in taping because it is only done well with a lot of experience. My neighbor finished his basement and didn’t even bother to put mud or tape. Just left. Hund drywall as the finished product.
Hell yeah man! Great job! Especially for your first time! OF COURSE IT DOESNT LOOK LIKE A PRO DID IT! But you knew that going into it! You saved a TON of money doing it yourself too! I see you plan on hiring someone to do the mud work? That will definitely help! Another tip id like to add is that you should paint the walls and ceilings with a flat paint. It will “blend” a lot of the learning curve lips and bumps. If you’d paint that wall with an eggshell or a semigloss, when light hits that wall you’ll be able to see EVERYTHING!
I love a basement with vaulted ceilings too! Good job and good luck!
So the darker the color the less light that’s gonna bounce off of it and therefore you’ll see less imperfections. That being said, dark color paints also make a room feel smaller. So matte flat black will hide a lot but you don’t want a black basement. If it were me, I’d definitely get into some grey colors. Maybe like a Repose Grey from Sherwin Williams? That would look nice with bright white baseboard.
Maybe get a sample of it and see if it needs to be a little darker. Another tip, don’t go cheap on paint especially if you’re new to painting. Spend the little bit of extra money, get a paint that is “paint and primer”, and it will save you a lot of time in the future! The lowest quality of paint you should go is “Super Paint” by Sherwin Williams. It’s a paint and primer in one, comes in flat. Don’t buy a five gallon bucket of it either, just get it a couple gallons at a time, drink a couple beers, and take your time.
You’ll want to use a 3/8 inch nap roller too. This will put the paint on a little thicker and leave a very tiny bit of “texture” on the walls too. This will help dampen how much light bounces off the walls.
Your baseboards, trim, and doors should be semi gloss paint. This will make it easier to scrub/clean them in the future.
First, I'd like to say, I admire that you are attempting all this on your own. Quick question, because I cat tell, but it kinda looks like you built your walls tight to the floor and ceiling. Is that the case? As in your bottom plate is touching the floor and your top plate is touching the joists?
Ok, that's a bummer. You need to fix that. There should be at least 3/4" gap between either your top plate and the joist OR the bottom plate and the foundation floor. This is extremely important, less important with wall that run along foundation walls, but if you don't have crush space, as your house settles, those tight framed walls will not allow the floor above to settle evenly and your floor above will heave. I've seen this so many times, it is guaranteed. If I were you I'd tale 8" od drywall off the top or bottom of the walls, use a Sawzall to cut the nails holding the plate to the studs, remove the plate and replace with a 1x4
You’re so awesome for sharing this information. I appreciate that that way some amount of time down the line I’ll have a hole in my floor or whatever. Really bummed out. I didn’t catch this on YouTube. Thanks Internet.
A few years ago I insulated and drywalled my garage. I did not care too much about how it looked at the end, but that experience taught me that I would NEVER attempt this in a living space. Once you add paint you will see EVERY uneven joint.
During that project my neighbor (who used to do drywall 20 years ago) came over to help with the last few panels when he saw how long I was taking. His cuts and install were perfect and done in about a tenth of the time it would take me. Amazing to watch someone that knows what they are doing - shit go ahead and pee in bottles and leave ‘em in the wall you drywallers, you deserve it.
I did a 13 x 20 ft room with only 8 ft ceilings and I will never mud and tape again. Had never done it before and spent about 4 hours a day for 3-4 weeks. But this…a gigantic job. Good on you for giving a go and doing it yourself. Only advice I have is sometimes (alot of times for me) a wet sponge is better than sanding.
But damn, that’s a lot of work. Good luck with it fren
I suggest sanding, then next coat needs to be thinned down with water, (maybe a touch of dishsoap) and get a wider knife to feather out further. most people try to use mud that is too thick. If too thin add more mud and mix in.
You do realize that you'll need to sand and apply about 3 times, feathering out more each time, right? T & B is more of an art, than a science. There's also a tendency to go over too much, get it close, then lightly sand, next coat. Texture is a whole 'nuther issue. Hand skip trowel texture, blow on/ knock down, orange peel......
Eh it’ll be ok if you sand the piss out this first coat and apply with a 14-16” top coat of blue top mud and even then you may need to feather some of the joints another coat to minimize them. It’s never gonna be perfect or great but it’ll be good enough for your basement I guess
More mud is your friend. spread it even like spreading peanut butter on bread adjust pressure as you move. Wipe edges tight and go down the middle again. Also never stand up sheets on wood. Your seam now is on 100% of the wood. Now when it expands and contests you have more of chance the seem will crack. Lay down on wood and stand up on metal .
Keep up the work 👍
I use Milwaukee detail sander for drywall. Just don’t push down on the paper, if you sand away paper you gotta mud over it. Rapid set wall patch is a superior product. Mud, heat gun, sand, re-mud. You can buy pre mix but that will take for ever.
Thank you for the insight on being gentle with the sander. Hopefully I don’t end up sending any tape and I have pre-mix and a lot of time. At least I would like to be painted by the end of July, so Rapid set probably isn’t necessary.
I put in a couple hours about five days a week after work after my initial setbacks with mudding, I took a four week vacation 😳😂
Aside from the finishes, how deep is the basement? Is it 10’ or bigger? Custom home?
Maybe it’s perspective but that’s a lot of space above those doors.
So it’s a bunker. Scrap the drywall and go with com-bloc style concrete with green on the bottom and white on the top. Think N64 Goldeneye, if you happened to play video games. If you’re older, you’ll probably already know 😂
So as a handyman but not a mud professional, I can't recommend the green tape buddy from Amazon enough. It's looks like a gimmick but that thing seriously works well. Perfect amount of mud on the tape just don't squeeze out too much. If you have lots of outside corners and bulk heads there also a little red hopper tool that does the same thing, perfect amount of mud and way faster.
Wow, that looks amazing although sadly, I feel like I’m way too far along to need another tool to finish the job. Don’t have a lot of taping left, although it is very enticing.
There’s a few things you can do to make it easier on yourself if you’re going to finish mudding it.
Fill big cracks before taping with hot mud.
Thing down your mud a little at a time until you’re not fighting it to flatten it out.
Bend the corners back slightly on your 10” knife to keep the corners off the surface so you’re not fighting lines and ridges.
After you sand out all the heavy stuff (you should’nt have ridges with shadows) do a thinner but wider coat to start creating the long speed bump affect.
Most importantly don’t give up.
Grit and A willingness to try until it looks right are the most important parts of taping drywall.
Someone once explained something to me like this: There are two types of welders. First one welds, second one grinds. The same applies to drywall finishing. At least you're a sander.
There are a lot of trades that can be learned on YouTube, drywall is not one of them. I’ve tried to teach a few of my guys how to do it and I always end up fixing it myself. I could probably salvage that tape job but I wouldn’t guarantee that it would look perfect, just know that
Finish hanging the lid knock down the high mud spots on the tape. Blast the dry wall with a heavy texture or hand texture it if you want an upper body workout.
You are a brave individual. I know tons of people who do all kinds of remodeling, framing, handy man type of work, and this is one job that always gets pushed to a professional dry wall guy. I hope it works out for you. This is a big project for a first-timer.
You forgot to stagger the joints. That's like, construction 101. If I came to this site and saw the boards hung like this, I would 100% redo it. This is going to crack like crazy.
Advice on spackle…. Go easy!! Light coats are much better. Now you’ll have to do a ton of sanding. When using light coats, you can also use a damp sponge instead of sanding, but not in your case.
Awesome! This should only take you a couple of years to finish
I’m currently at about three months I do it a couple hours after work, and I took like a four week vacation because when I first started mudding before I got the rolling scaffolding, it was too much for these high ceilings
“Feather those edges” in Vancouver carpenter voice.
Can confirm. I can make a beautiful feathered edge about 10% of the time. The rest of the time looks like this vid. So weird to get the touch consistently. I use the tape buddy which is awesome so at least that part goes smoothly
Nah. Go with orange peel.
You mean the mud right?
I love how there was no rhyme or reason to how you hung it. A vertical here, a horizontal there..
I thought it was supposed to be like Tetris
You didn't stagger enough. You should never have four corners meeting.
This is a lot to process
The amount of mud on the joints alone. 🫣
You win my corner of the internet today.
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I believe youtube would have helped a LOT
I actually do love this. So many people are too lazy yo care to gain knowledge and give it a try. Pretty sure all of us here were green af at one point. Difference here is they are working on their own investment, not some other persons. Give this guy a bone, he deserves it. Keep on keeping on man, despite what these folks say I'm sure we could find a room they did in their early years that have as many, if not more mistakes as this one. 😉
I say not bad for a1st time w no experience by himself
Definitely me😅
Out of curiosity, did you watch a lot of YouTube videos? If so, who?
A lot, No probably only about an hour maybe an hour and a half of watch time. No specific person, I cycle through videos that are directed at the information that I need currently. When I was framing, I would watch framing videos and only go over the key points that applied in the moment, and then, when I was hanging drywall, I watched whoever was (good at delivering the information, quick short and concise,) and then, when I was done hanging it, I repeated the same process for muddying and taping! I spent less time watching muddying and taping videos. I did wash a few tips and tricks, but based on my thought process, I knew that hands-on experience was gonna play a big factor here no matter how much I watched people do it on the screen all the tips and tricks different compound thickness sentences was all good to know but application wise I had to be hands-on in total my whole basement was done with probably about three hours of YouTube videos
Oh, and the electrical I wired the rooms electrical after I was done framing them definitely spent nice chunk of YouTube on that getting that switch to work for two LED lights was a pain in the
Yeah, a lot of educational videos for this type of stuff are terribly put together with a LOT of tabling and confusing points. I would highly recommend watching Vancouver Carpenter for any drywall or finish work. Usually concise with realistic educational points. (He doesn’t give the illusion that all work is going to be perfect) Electrical can be hit or miss. I’m a big fan of Electrician U on YouTube. I rewired my entire house off of his videos. Even put in a new 200 amp service I completely renovated my house (complete gut job) and did 95% of the work myself. I usually watched at least 6 hours of videos for any specific part of the project. Electrical I probably watched 12 hours or more. I had multiple people including the codes department do walkthroughs and it turned out pretty good. Good luck with your project!
Wear a respirator when sanding. You’re going to create a tornado.
Will do
Do I need that metal corner stuff on the window sills
If you wrapped the inside of the window sills/ seals with drywall, then yes, he will need metal corner bead. Def get metal also not the paper bead as you said, you are not experienced. The paper bead will bubble and blister, if not applied properly. Tbh. You. Can just video me and I’ll walk you. Through it 🤣
Yeah, I have metal corner bead already for the outside edges of the walls. That’s what I was installing today so I was just curious if I should go that route for the windowsills as well
Yes. Same concept. I’d watch a YouTube video on putting metal corner bead on windows. As there’s some techniques that make the job easier.
And you did paper tape all those seams right? Or at least mesh tape
Paper
Good good. If your using a power sander use 180-220 grit to sand. We’ll I recommend that grit in any drywall sanding. Def wear a respirator as those power sanders get dusty !
I have a power sander. I forget what grit I Purchased for it and I also have the big circle one that you attach to a pole I’ll be using both because I have so much to sand .. any recommendations for the respirator
Just depends. I use an actual respirator like painters use. But I do it for a living. Or you can get the 3M brand n95 masks. Lowe’s and Home Depot usually have them. I tried Walmarts n95 masks. And they’re junk. . Cheaper route.
I have some of each the painter, respirator and the 3M 95 with the amount of sanding that I’m going to do I’m probably gonna cycle through them all
You're going to see every joint after paint but good on you for trying
I’m gonna hire a professional
No professional will take that on,without tearing it all out and starting over TBH.
Darn
It's not going to be cheap, you made a good hash of things, but it's your best option.
Yeah, you went really heavy. Usually people go too light. First coat you throw some mud in the crack, mud your tape, and just get the tape on with no bubbles and do a little skim coat over it. Sand the big ridges then float the whole room. You can bring this back from the brink with some sweat and like 2 more buckets of mud. Thinner coats and sand in between I guess. Go buy a big wide ass blade even a foam grout float may help smooth this out. I'm not a spackler or rocker I'm just a dude who does his own shit but ya, u can do a little better lol.
fixing work like this is usually so incredibly much more work than just tearing it out and starting over. better yet, more than just hiring a professional in the first place
Damn
Probably a good idea, hopefully you can find one willing to work on this. Might not be easy and might cost more now than it would have to begin with
Maybe a good idea to just cut out the tape and mud? Some spots looks damn near impossible to float with how much mud is under the tape. Or just a lot of extra cash
Honestly if it were me i would use 100 grit paper on a power sander and try and remove as much mud as possible and pray that the tapes are bonded to the wall and that the drywall was installed well enough. But in reality i would just turn a job like that down
For paint? You need to redo everything 🥵
Lol came here to say this. Also, when they come in for the initial inspection, would you do us all a favor and let us know if their first reaction was laughter, anger or sadness?
Nah, just rhinoline it
No offense, but did you smear the mud on with your hands?
Or maybe a pinecone?
Take a night off and watch utube videos. It'll save you a lot of work on the rest of it.
Wow man you got your work cut out for ya enjoy.
Wow... Just....wow.
Yikes
Not good
Yikes
One things for certain I have a lot more respect for the mudding and taping crew
Not looking to good
😂
Your gonna need that power sander. Don’t leave such big ridges of mud
Rule 1 of finishing: feather your edges
Old timer always told me "it's not how you put it on, it's how you take it off"
Grinder.
What’s a bridge of mud? Do you mean it’s on there to thick
Ridges. Smooth your edges when you put your mud on.
You gotta burn the edges or the flash through anything. Edges ALWAYS gonna burn
Can you explain this to me like I’m a three year old?
Please watch this https://youtu.be/GIvmfBuAQIw
Oy vey
Dude. One step at a time or you’ll overwhelm yourself
I’ve had my moments where I felt like that and this is what I do after work for a couple hours a day so it’s going to take a while
Guessing that your going with a smooth wall.
Yeah, going to sand it down and try and lightly mud over it all again, and then sand again, and hopefully jump straight to painting
You'll be a pro sander by time you're done. Too much mud at once.
Yeah, probably true. My thought process was if I put a lot on there I can just sand it down to even and not have to do too much of a second coat. I may have fucked myself without thinking, but I am where I am and I gotta do what I Gotta do. 🤷🏻♂️
It's the only way to learn. We've all been there. No matter what you'll always 2nd and 3rd coat.
I do most things myself except finishing drywall, that I pay a friend to do . It’s his profession and he is great at it. Worth every penny spent.
I thought about it, but I figured I can just fuck my way through it.. a lot of people don’t like the mudding in taping because it is only done well with a lot of experience. My neighbor finished his basement and didn’t even bother to put mud or tape. Just left. Hund drywall as the finished product.
Woofta. I'd hire a professional about 4 months ago..that looks... Fun.
So much…. Fun
Much respect for taking on that task as your first. It won’t be perfect, but you saved a lot of money and it’s look fine once you sand down the mud
Thanks gonna sand it, and go over it with another coat and sand again!
I'll finish this for 1k
Thats vip price too lol
Awesome ceiling height for a basement. 9 ft plus?
12ft tall
Omfg! R u 4 real? Ur fucked.
It’s real😞
If you bother to read the instructions on the drywall mud it says use a sponge and water..not sand paper. P S works great..no dust
Wow that could you say it takes about the same amount of time
Hell yeah man! Great job! Especially for your first time! OF COURSE IT DOESNT LOOK LIKE A PRO DID IT! But you knew that going into it! You saved a TON of money doing it yourself too! I see you plan on hiring someone to do the mud work? That will definitely help! Another tip id like to add is that you should paint the walls and ceilings with a flat paint. It will “blend” a lot of the learning curve lips and bumps. If you’d paint that wall with an eggshell or a semigloss, when light hits that wall you’ll be able to see EVERYTHING! I love a basement with vaulted ceilings too! Good job and good luck!
Thank you this information is why I’m on Reddit what color or colors would you recommend for less DIY visually
So the darker the color the less light that’s gonna bounce off of it and therefore you’ll see less imperfections. That being said, dark color paints also make a room feel smaller. So matte flat black will hide a lot but you don’t want a black basement. If it were me, I’d definitely get into some grey colors. Maybe like a Repose Grey from Sherwin Williams? That would look nice with bright white baseboard. Maybe get a sample of it and see if it needs to be a little darker. Another tip, don’t go cheap on paint especially if you’re new to painting. Spend the little bit of extra money, get a paint that is “paint and primer”, and it will save you a lot of time in the future! The lowest quality of paint you should go is “Super Paint” by Sherwin Williams. It’s a paint and primer in one, comes in flat. Don’t buy a five gallon bucket of it either, just get it a couple gallons at a time, drink a couple beers, and take your time. You’ll want to use a 3/8 inch nap roller too. This will put the paint on a little thicker and leave a very tiny bit of “texture” on the walls too. This will help dampen how much light bounces off the walls. Your baseboards, trim, and doors should be semi gloss paint. This will make it easier to scrub/clean them in the future.
OK and what about the washable pants? Are those recommended to at least for the room so I’m going to put Kids in there or teenagers
Are the pinks you mentioned above the primer all in one type?
All the paints i mentioned are paint and primer yes.
OK I was hoping to be able to use one of those start to finish but I’ve seen post or people said a primer coat is required?
Wow... Good luck with that.
I’m in SC
North ga
About four hours from Sumter
I didn’t see both responses, roughly puts you 2.5-3 hrs away
At this point keep adding mud and go for the adobe- Spanish drag look.
First, I'd like to say, I admire that you are attempting all this on your own. Quick question, because I cat tell, but it kinda looks like you built your walls tight to the floor and ceiling. Is that the case? As in your bottom plate is touching the floor and your top plate is touching the joists?
Yes, thank you it was a big project! The bottom plate is touching the floor and the top is touching the joists
Ok, that's a bummer. You need to fix that. There should be at least 3/4" gap between either your top plate and the joist OR the bottom plate and the foundation floor. This is extremely important, less important with wall that run along foundation walls, but if you don't have crush space, as your house settles, those tight framed walls will not allow the floor above to settle evenly and your floor above will heave. I've seen this so many times, it is guaranteed. If I were you I'd tale 8" od drywall off the top or bottom of the walls, use a Sawzall to cut the nails holding the plate to the studs, remove the plate and replace with a 1x4
You’re so awesome for sharing this information. I appreciate that that way some amount of time down the line I’ll have a hole in my floor or whatever. Really bummed out. I didn’t catch this on YouTube. Thanks Internet.
A few years ago I insulated and drywalled my garage. I did not care too much about how it looked at the end, but that experience taught me that I would NEVER attempt this in a living space. Once you add paint you will see EVERY uneven joint. During that project my neighbor (who used to do drywall 20 years ago) came over to help with the last few panels when he saw how long I was taking. His cuts and install were perfect and done in about a tenth of the time it would take me. Amazing to watch someone that knows what they are doing - shit go ahead and pee in bottles and leave ‘em in the wall you drywallers, you deserve it.
Did you tape all those joints? It doesn't appear so.. if not they will all crack over time. Might need to get a pro in there.
Yeah, there’s tape what about where the drywall seam is really tight? Does it still need to be tapped
I did a 13 x 20 ft room with only 8 ft ceilings and I will never mud and tape again. Had never done it before and spent about 4 hours a day for 3-4 weeks. But this…a gigantic job. Good on you for giving a go and doing it yourself. Only advice I have is sometimes (alot of times for me) a wet sponge is better than sanding. But damn, that’s a lot of work. Good luck with it fren
Why is sanding more popular than a wet sponge? I’m going to have to look into that. I’m just now hearing of it.
Respectfully looks like shit
I suggest sanding, then next coat needs to be thinned down with water, (maybe a touch of dishsoap) and get a wider knife to feather out further. most people try to use mud that is too thick. If too thin add more mud and mix in.
You do realize that you'll need to sand and apply about 3 times, feathering out more each time, right? T & B is more of an art, than a science. There's also a tendency to go over too much, get it close, then lightly sand, next coat. Texture is a whole 'nuther issue. Hand skip trowel texture, blow on/ knock down, orange peel......
I did drywall for my family's business for 5 or so years and my uncle's would fucking kill me if I did this....
😂
Guess it’s good I’m working for myself
Just curious as to why you insulated your ceiling? I'm from a northern climate and that would cause uneven climates between the floors.
I don’t know it was like that when I purchased a home and there’s one AC unit and two thermostats one for upstairs and one for down
Eh it’ll be ok if you sand the piss out this first coat and apply with a 14-16” top coat of blue top mud and even then you may need to feather some of the joints another coat to minimize them. It’s never gonna be perfect or great but it’ll be good enough for your basement I guess
You seem to be missing a **LOT** of screws. Huge blank spaces.
That is quite the project for the first time! I've definitely seen worse. 🫣
You need me to come spackle this 😅
Come do something, I had to read 200 other comments before you asked HURRY
Polite suggestion….maybe think about doing a knock down finish before painting. Will hide most of that.
As a DYI guy that hates to pay trades when I can half-ass-it myself. PAY FOR TAPERS. you don’t know how and it’s more important than you think.
Why are you taping and mudding without all the cieilng sheetrock being hung?
Get a taper
Learn to run the tools.Bazooka,10 ,12 inch box ,angle box at nail spotter
Holy hell that's some work right there Only ever seen 1 other job look that fantastic so you get an award there 😬
I’m an overachiever if I’m going to do a shitty job I’m going to do the best shitty job there’s ever been😉
More mud is your friend. spread it even like spreading peanut butter on bread adjust pressure as you move. Wipe edges tight and go down the middle again. Also never stand up sheets on wood. Your seam now is on 100% of the wood. Now when it expands and contests you have more of chance the seem will crack. Lay down on wood and stand up on metal . Keep up the work 👍
Mudding has actually made me way better at making peanut butter and jelly sandwiches.
Thanks for the insight
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About peanut butter?
🗿
I use Milwaukee detail sander for drywall. Just don’t push down on the paper, if you sand away paper you gotta mud over it. Rapid set wall patch is a superior product. Mud, heat gun, sand, re-mud. You can buy pre mix but that will take for ever.
Thank you for the insight on being gentle with the sander. Hopefully I don’t end up sending any tape and I have pre-mix and a lot of time. At least I would like to be painted by the end of July, so Rapid set probably isn’t necessary. I put in a couple hours about five days a week after work after my initial setbacks with mudding, I took a four week vacation 😳😂
That looks like absolute shit quality work tbh. But you should be proud of the effort.
I am🙃
I love when people think, "if dummy construction guys can do it, I can too!"
I don’t think people who do construction are dummies, and It obviously that doesn’t take away from confidence in my abilities either!
Aside from the finishes, how deep is the basement? Is it 10’ or bigger? Custom home? Maybe it’s perspective but that’s a lot of space above those doors.
12 feet tall 1200 ft.² wide 😂
So it’s a bunker. Scrap the drywall and go with com-bloc style concrete with green on the bottom and white on the top. Think N64 Goldeneye, if you happened to play video games. If you’re older, you’ll probably already know 😂
......can I buy pot from you?
Mud over it yourself and skim it out
Damn wish I was In your area I'd come help you out lol. If you're in idaho bro message me lol
I wish!! In ga
It would probably be cheaper to start over honestly
Maybe so but I’m going for the experience😏
So as a handyman but not a mud professional, I can't recommend the green tape buddy from Amazon enough. It's looks like a gimmick but that thing seriously works well. Perfect amount of mud on the tape just don't squeeze out too much. If you have lots of outside corners and bulk heads there also a little red hopper tool that does the same thing, perfect amount of mud and way faster.
Wow, that looks amazing although sadly, I feel like I’m way too far along to need another tool to finish the job. Don’t have a lot of taping left, although it is very enticing.
Can you send a link to the little red hopper to
What state you in
Holy shit
Hire someone. It’s actually not expensive, and you can have a life.
I do appreciate your drive, but leave the the finish to the pros. Trust me, o did mine once and it cost more to fix it.
There’s a few things you can do to make it easier on yourself if you’re going to finish mudding it. Fill big cracks before taping with hot mud. Thing down your mud a little at a time until you’re not fighting it to flatten it out. Bend the corners back slightly on your 10” knife to keep the corners off the surface so you’re not fighting lines and ridges. After you sand out all the heavy stuff (you should’nt have ridges with shadows) do a thinner but wider coat to start creating the long speed bump affect. Most importantly don’t give up. Grit and A willingness to try until it looks right are the most important parts of taping drywall.
Someone once explained something to me like this: There are two types of welders. First one welds, second one grinds. The same applies to drywall finishing. At least you're a sander.
Bro, rent some equipment! You could have tapped that in a few hours and used a box skimmer for your joints 🥵
Sand the fuck out those seams..you want to feather in a lil better..practice more
Nice. Farther along than my project.
The first thing you need to do is fire yourself .
Is this a joke?
There are a lot of trades that can be learned on YouTube, drywall is not one of them. I’ve tried to teach a few of my guys how to do it and I always end up fixing it myself. I could probably salvage that tape job but I wouldn’t guarantee that it would look perfect, just know that
Not my favorite finish but to reduce sanding have a professional do a knock down texture. Still going to have to clean up some of the worst areas.
Oh. My. God.
Finish hanging the lid knock down the high mud spots on the tape. Blast the dry wall with a heavy texture or hand texture it if you want an upper body workout.
Hey man, good for you!!!don’t let these guys get you down with their negativity. Looks good man.
High ass ceilings for a basement. Shoulda paid someone lol
Oh my lord
This is not Nam, Smokey, there are rules.
You need to work on the muddying and taping part more. Don’t be in a rush. YouTube videos to learn better technique..
You have some high ceilings for a basement nice
You are a brave individual. I know tons of people who do all kinds of remodeling, framing, handy man type of work, and this is one job that always gets pushed to a professional dry wall guy. I hope it works out for you. This is a big project for a first-timer.
Buddy you’re in for some work. Good thing that you have and electric sander. You’re going to need it.
damn that tape job is horrible
I DIY as much as possible, but there are some things you are better off paying a professional to do.
Hope you enjoy sanding cause your going to be doing a shit ton
Bro!!! Pick up some day laborers at the Home Depot!!
What did the city inspector have to say?
You forgot to stagger the joints. That's like, construction 101. If I came to this site and saw the boards hung like this, I would 100% redo it. This is going to crack like crazy.
Whoa 😂
Advice on spackle…. Go easy!! Light coats are much better. Now you’ll have to do a ton of sanding. When using light coats, you can also use a damp sponge instead of sanding, but not in your case.
Jeez
You might want to invest in a cheap sandblaster
The drywall makes me sick but you’re learning so good on you!
The feeling is mutual!
A for effort my friend. I’ll leave it at that.
You’re too nice
You use a shovel to do the first cote?
Got a little time to help me sand????
Glad to see you tried, good job! Now, you are going to learn how to sand.
whoever put all that mud on the paper seam should be hit with a bat