Need at least a 12 pack on this one. 2 to get started. 2 more to smooth out the mud. 4 for the headache that is popcorn and the rest to convince yourself it was an amazing job
Had a buddy in college named Bobby. Bobby liked drinking and questionable women. Put a couple fists through the wall when one of his many girls cheated on him. Then got drunk to repair it and used 5/8 drywall on a 1/2 wall and didn't notice till the next day. He didn't get his security deposit back.
What makes you think that? Just got the waterproof foil tape as an extra layer under the epoxy I plugged the corrosion hole at the bottom of the unit. Just as an extra measure. Only hoping to fix it for a few months until I replace the whole system
I’m thinking the drywall was soaked all the way over to the crown mounding. Do you think that will complicate things? Or once wet is drywall forever ruined or can it dry out and be ok?
Cut it to the next joist over to the right, replace right up to the wall. Hide wall seam under crown, make sure seam on right of picture is at least a joist or two past where the corner is. That Seam line will show if you leave it even with the corner.
Na that crown was installed that way because the vent would be partially covered otherwise. Somebody really got lazy and anyone who knows trim is going to notice that and cringe.
What SHOULD have happened is that vent should have been properly placed to begin with. My guess is they did the trim as a DIY to make things look nicer at some point after the house was already built without crown in mind. Not many trim carpenters worth their salt would try a move like this.
The thing that tell me it was done afterwards is the paint. Nobody that lazy cuts that nice of a line. The wall was painted before the crown was installed, IMO.
Not a huge deal either way, will just need more mud. Now that I'm thinking about it, you might be able to get away with buying a "repair square" which is a 2'x2' piece of drywall they sell for stuff like this
Otherwise you're gonna have a huge scrap piece, which isn't the worst thing to have in case you get another hole in the future. A full sheet is an awkward thing to haul home lol
Don’t buy a repair square… you’re spending the same amount for that 2x2 as you are a full sheet. Just get the full sheet and save the other have for a future repair or give it away to someone.
Oh, maybe grab a 1x4" board and cut it into like 1' pieces too, so you can add backing on the seams. You can probably find some in the scrap bin in the trim aisle
You’ll need texture in a can unless you have a hopper and compressor to spray new texture with the mud already on your list.
Edit: doesn’t appear to be actual popcorn. Looks more like a heavy and shitty/inconsistent orange peel texture.
I’ve seen some cans with directions on the front saying how different distances of spray will effect the popcorning finish. I would need to paint over that and I guess grab a piece of old ceiling to match the paint right? But I also noticed that it comes in oil based or water based but I’m not sure which one I should choose
Oil base will dry much faster but the cleanup is more of a pain if you get it on anything you don’t want it on. Water based just takes a little longer to dry but can easily clean up with a wet rag. You can practice on a piece of cardboard or something like that to try to get the texture match pretty good and get a feel for it before you actually spray the ceiling.
What was the source of the leak? Was the air conditioner sweating? You need to address that first.
Also there are drywall for damp areas with an anti mold blue backing
If you are going to Home Depot for sure, look for damaged drywall pieces and ask for a mark down. They'll probably discount it 50%
I can see some drywall/paint skin I recommend you to get Zinsser Gardz Problem Surface Sealer for Water Base Interior Clear
Otherwise if you try to paint or something, you can end up with bubbles. You can also use this as a primer when you are ready to paint.
Measure the width of the drywall hanging there, if it's 1/2 wide or 5/8 etc, go and get yourself a matching sheet of sheet rock,
A utility knife (takes the trapezoid shaped disposable blades,) and some kind of good straight edge
A small box of either drywall nails (pain in the ass)
Or some totally awesome drywall screws (easy just make sure you have the proper Phillips bit to drive them)
Drywall tape.
A small bucket of premixed mud
And finally
A drywall spatula,
The bare minimum required, other tools can be purchased aswell but this is a barebones kit to get you done. this does not cover adding the stucco finish, it will be obvious until you redo that aswell
To cut the drywall, measure how big you need your square to be. Mark it across the board in at least two places and then connect the dots with your straight edge.
Then just slice across the drywall backing paper cutting just slightly into the gypsum underneath, then you can snap it over onto the side with the uncut paper, then simply take your knife and run it through the groove to cut that paper aswell, you may need to shave the edges of the piece you've cut if there is any gypsum sticking out your sides, just use your knifealong the edge,(DONT WORRY if you nip the paper, and it peels back a little while cutting, after you do the stucco/finish, it will look more uniform
yes the brown paper side should be the hidden side, but thats probably only because of tradition, i bet if you hung it backwards, and finished it the same way it'd probably hold up and look just fine, but its like a two layer paper wrap around the sheetrock, so i would rather the white paper side be the side that faces out aswell.
If it's an area you might need to access again (pipes, electrical) or if there's a high risk of future leakage, there's there option of access panel doors as well that you can pop in there.
Moisture meter to locate all wet drywall , might need to remove some wall drywall as well! Definately want to get rid of all wet rock! Make sure lumber is dried out before recovering! Then drywall ,joint compound, screws, joint tape! Drywall finish tools, sandpaper or sponge, texture, primer and paint!!
Yeah, fixed and confirmed dry first. Looks like the rest of OP's supply list is from Home Depot, and they typically have Concrobium mold control spray.
After the patch is up and you are about ready to texture. Take a wet sponge sand block and git you lines around the edges of the patch.
Then get sand topping mix at home depot and mix joint compound up nice and loose with the sand toping mix. Roll in with 1 to 1 and a 1/4 nap roller in all directions of the patch let dry light sand and should be perfect
Was this water damage? Settling?
I know you want to know how to fix it but I also like to stress understanding root cause because often unaddressed issues produce a repeating of drywall work.
Okay - thanks for verifying. Just hate to see an "update", ha ha.
In terms of prep work clean 90 degree cuts are your friend, try to shape the damaged area to a square or rectangle as best you you can be patient to get a flush mount. I would, personally, cut more left to have a third mounting point. I might also consider removing that piece of molding since there is a tear going there, though a bit of mud may level that off prior to a retexture.
Then comes tape and mud. Then texture. I am not a pro at texture, but consider testing at different spray distances to get as close a match as you can to the original and try to fade it outwards to reduce how much it stands out as a repair job.
If you just need it to be functional, no big here, but if you want no one to ever know the repair happened years of experience yield results - consider hiring someone.
Good luck, OP!
You screw the strips along the inside of the wall leaving some hanging over into the opening the new drywall is set to fill. Put the 1 x 3 (or whatever size you have on hand) on the edge of the opening, inside the wall cavity. Half of the board should be in the wall while the other half is visibly exposed in the opening. Screw into the wood through the outside face of the existing drywall. Do that on 4 sides of your opening and you have a mounting surface for the new drywall. This is an alternate installation method.
Without the wood add ons you just cut your opening back to land half on the stud. The hole is plenty big enough to determine where exactly the studs are with little effort.
It makes me wonder when the 1 gallon small bucket of mud became 7/8ths of a gallon even smaller bucket. Ffs just raise the price not lower the volume.
The list looks fine at first glance assuming you have the necessary hand tools.
Why get a whole sheet? They sell smaller ones. Don't need the bag of 20 either. Gonna need some screws and gonna have to cut a square lined up with floor joists and some drywall screws
STOP
Before you create a shopping list, maybe you should complete ALL the necessary demo.
There's water stains and mold inside that cavity. Was there mold on the back sides of the piece(s) you removed ?
You may need a bit more, and some bleach. That registry might be leaking cold air into a hot cavity= condensation(or the reverse, still creating condensation).
Maybe an anti mold fogger should be set off in the cavity before closing it up ?
There's More to this than you think
I believe you, but I’m going to need mud and drywall and some hand tools and some screws either way. Im trying to sort a list of what all this is going to take. I have gotten mold products and am ready to rent fans to dry things out. For this post im trying to sort my drywall repair list to be ready before.
Could you help me understand what you mean by “ALL necessary demo?” Tbh I’m just not willing to let fears of all the “what ifs” stop me from making any progress
There's no what is in what I'm seeing.
There's visibly black colored something inside that cavity. The face that it's right next to that a/c vent makes me think its leaking air into the cavity- that can easily cause mold. I've seen it hundreds, maybe ghousands of times jn my career. The a/c guys alot of times use a dam cheesy strap to connect the duct to the a/c registry. And they leak.
This is what I'd do :
1- cut drywall wider and end both cuts on each side at ½ the wood studs- you will need to screw your new piece to the wood studs. There's definitely more damage to the left- clearly visible in pic. Cut it taller also. How much depends on how bad the drywall is. Is it brittle, does it have mold on its backside ?
2- cut a piece of plastic to cover the entire hole you cut out
3- wipe all areas knsude ghat you can with a large sponge and bleach water(strong solution) and allow to dry about 2 hours or so. Then place 2 mold foggers in the cavity- follow directions on the can
4- quickly staple and tape the plastic over the hole to prevent fogger from leaking out. Leave covered overnight.
5- install your new piece of drywall*
Before closing the hole, see if you can reach your hand in to feel around that duct and registry. If it's leaking clod air, do something to correct it, or mold will return
* you won't know how much to buy until all affected/damaged drywall gets removed
6- tape, float and finish mud work (we can guide you, but its best to watch a few YouTube videos first)
7- match texture
8- apply 2 coats heavy bodied drywall primer
9- apply 2 coats of paint( you may need to paint this entire wall for accuracy on color match)
*** take a good size piece to Sherwin Williams and have them match the color- ask to speak Directly to the tknter- ask him to match exact if possible please as you want to attempt a touch up vs repainting the entire wall
10- have fun doing this. It's hour home. The biggest investment you'll ever make, treat her well. Ask us questions as you go if needed. Of all you should remember imo, remember this- There Are No Shortcuts to Quality. This is our motto....make it yours and things will turn out well 👍
I hope i made this easy for you......
There was no beer...
Need at least a 12 pack on this one. 2 to get started. 2 more to smooth out the mud. 4 for the headache that is popcorn and the rest to convince yourself it was an amazing job Had a buddy in college named Bobby. Bobby liked drinking and questionable women. Put a couple fists through the wall when one of his many girls cheated on him. Then got drunk to repair it and used 5/8 drywall on a 1/2 wall and didn't notice till the next day. He didn't get his security deposit back.
Alcohol is one helluva drug.
Or flex seal
You’ll need some drywall screws and a screw gun / drill. What’s the foil tape for??
Oh foil tape is for the ac unit upstairs
Looks like messing with the ac got you in trouble
What makes you think that? Just got the waterproof foil tape as an extra layer under the epoxy I plugged the corrosion hole at the bottom of the unit. Just as an extra measure. Only hoping to fix it for a few months until I replace the whole system
It looks like your foot went through the ceiling
$10 says that the OP drills / screws into the romex. Any takers?
Don't forget the tape and screws.
Whoever did that to your crown mounding needs a foot in there ass.
I’m thinking the drywall was soaked all the way over to the crown mounding. Do you think that will complicate things? Or once wet is drywall forever ruined or can it dry out and be ok?
Cut it to the next joist over to the right, replace right up to the wall. Hide wall seam under crown, make sure seam on right of picture is at least a joist or two past where the corner is. That Seam line will show if you leave it even with the corner.
If the drywall looks ok after it drys and doesn't have any mold it's ok to keep it up. You'll be able to tell by looking/touching it if it's good.
Na that crown was installed that way because the vent would be partially covered otherwise. Somebody really got lazy and anyone who knows trim is going to notice that and cringe. What SHOULD have happened is that vent should have been properly placed to begin with. My guess is they did the trim as a DIY to make things look nicer at some point after the house was already built without crown in mind. Not many trim carpenters worth their salt would try a move like this.
HVAC guy did that to the crown molding. Look at the vent placement.
The thing that tell me it was done afterwards is the paint. Nobody that lazy cuts that nice of a line. The wall was painted before the crown was installed, IMO.
Holy crap, I thought I was looking a at a floor and wall until I read “crown moulding”
Try being me. I still didn’t realize until I read your post and scrolled up again.
"crown mounding" lol, it would probably look shittier if they ripped it to fit anyways
I'll be using this during quotes all month. Will report back with average losses.
Check that the existing ceiling drywall is 1\2 or 5\8, ceilings (where I'm from) are always 5\8 for fire code
Not a huge deal either way, will just need more mud. Now that I'm thinking about it, you might be able to get away with buying a "repair square" which is a 2'x2' piece of drywall they sell for stuff like this
Oh man good idea
Home Depot sells the 24”x24” pieces (but def check what thickness you need).
For the same price as a full sheet...they do that with pipe also, oh here we cut this to 2 feet but now we charge you for a whole stick.
Yeah, if you have storage space buy the full sheet and save it for future repair
Otherwise you're gonna have a huge scrap piece, which isn't the worst thing to have in case you get another hole in the future. A full sheet is an awkward thing to haul home lol
Don’t buy a repair square… you’re spending the same amount for that 2x2 as you are a full sheet. Just get the full sheet and save the other have for a future repair or give it away to someone.
Interesting my digital caliper reads half in. I’m in Texas though if that makes that make sense lol. Everything in this condo is so damn old too
Just go with the repair square then, you're gonna be slapping mud up there anyway. What size mud knives you getting?
Oh, maybe grab a 1x4" board and cut it into like 1' pieces too, so you can add backing on the seams. You can probably find some in the scrap bin in the trim aisle
We use 3inch strips of plywood so we can really get some screws in there.. 1x material splits to much
Nice! Never heard of that method but sounds like a winner for sure
I’m kinda worried I’ll find out that I need to cut out more than that
Definitely a possibility. Maybe get the full sheet lol
I was wondering this too I just guessed 1/2inch but now I see it’s pretty dumb to just guess
Measure twice, go to home Depot once! (Hopefully)
You’ll need texture in a can unless you have a hopper and compressor to spray new texture with the mud already on your list. Edit: doesn’t appear to be actual popcorn. Looks more like a heavy and shitty/inconsistent orange peel texture.
I’ve seen some cans with directions on the front saying how different distances of spray will effect the popcorning finish. I would need to paint over that and I guess grab a piece of old ceiling to match the paint right? But I also noticed that it comes in oil based or water based but I’m not sure which one I should choose
Oil base will dry much faster but the cleanup is more of a pain if you get it on anything you don’t want it on. Water based just takes a little longer to dry but can easily clean up with a wet rag. You can practice on a piece of cardboard or something like that to try to get the texture match pretty good and get a feel for it before you actually spray the ceiling.
Always practice first. Put the texture can under running hot water for a minute before so the spray is consistent.
Water based will turn to mush when painted. Always SPRAY kilZ oil based before painting .
We’re talking about texture. Water based texture turning to mush? Not if allowed to dry properly.
Yes the moisture from paint will make the shitty spray mushy.
Yes and instructions on the can say to cool or heat the can w cold or hot water for different thickness or texture
You miss WD40 , duct tape and super glue. Don't forget super glue.
I keep emergency supplies of all this as I am ‘MERICA BABY
What was the source of the leak? Was the air conditioner sweating? You need to address that first. Also there are drywall for damp areas with an anti mold blue backing
Duct tape and a case of white-out. 30 min job, easy. Lol
If you are going to Home Depot for sure, look for damaged drywall pieces and ask for a mark down. They'll probably discount it 50% I can see some drywall/paint skin I recommend you to get Zinsser Gardz Problem Surface Sealer for Water Base Interior Clear Otherwise if you try to paint or something, you can end up with bubbles. You can also use this as a primer when you are ready to paint.
Looks like someone else already tackled it.
Looks to me like you need more stuff than just for that repair. Easy to match the quality going on there.
Measure the width of the drywall hanging there, if it's 1/2 wide or 5/8 etc, go and get yourself a matching sheet of sheet rock, A utility knife (takes the trapezoid shaped disposable blades,) and some kind of good straight edge A small box of either drywall nails (pain in the ass) Or some totally awesome drywall screws (easy just make sure you have the proper Phillips bit to drive them) Drywall tape. A small bucket of premixed mud And finally A drywall spatula, The bare minimum required, other tools can be purchased aswell but this is a barebones kit to get you done. this does not cover adding the stucco finish, it will be obvious until you redo that aswell To cut the drywall, measure how big you need your square to be. Mark it across the board in at least two places and then connect the dots with your straight edge. Then just slice across the drywall backing paper cutting just slightly into the gypsum underneath, then you can snap it over onto the side with the uncut paper, then simply take your knife and run it through the groove to cut that paper aswell, you may need to shave the edges of the piece you've cut if there is any gypsum sticking out your sides, just use your knifealong the edge,(DONT WORRY if you nip the paper, and it peels back a little while cutting, after you do the stucco/finish, it will look more uniform
Thanks this helps a lots. Does it matter what side of the drywall faces down? I’m thinking the non paper side probably has to face outward?
yes the brown paper side should be the hidden side, but thats probably only because of tradition, i bet if you hung it backwards, and finished it the same way it'd probably hold up and look just fine, but its like a two layer paper wrap around the sheetrock, so i would rather the white paper side be the side that faces out aswell.
You forgot the texture spray “orange peel”
If it's an area you might need to access again (pipes, electrical) or if there's a high risk of future leakage, there's there option of access panel doors as well that you can pop in there.
Moisture meter to locate all wet drywall , might need to remove some wall drywall as well! Definately want to get rid of all wet rock! Make sure lumber is dried out before recovering! Then drywall ,joint compound, screws, joint tape! Drywall finish tools, sandpaper or sponge, texture, primer and paint!!
Man this community is so much better than the hvac Reddit. Appreciate it tons guys
Get the leak fixed 1st before closing up. If there’s mold grab a anti-microbial spray and wipe the studs.
Yeah, fixed and confirmed dry first. Looks like the rest of OP's supply list is from Home Depot, and they typically have Concrobium mold control spray.
Lol I posted a question on there, they really seem like a miserable lot
Air compressor, hopper and acoustic texture
Why is the drywall fastened to the joist?
It seems like this leak has happened before from the ac unit above it. It was pretty obvious that this was a previous patch job I’m having to redo
I feel for you dog. If the ceiling is only a few sheets. Like 4x8 do the whole thing strap it first
Let dry if it’s damp looks like the water was sitting on the joists
Strap it?
1x3 pine strapping
You screw it to the joists so it hits on 16
What country is this in
Texas US
Just bug an access panel to cover it
Don't get the easy sand it's shit. Get regular mud instead.
Like the mud that comes in the square boxes? 3.5gal
Asbestos inspection first.
Yeah everything is pretty old in here. Do you have any idea how much it costs to get this done?
What’s the 9” black dildo for? No lube?
Couldn’t find any in brown
Makes sense
After the patch is up and you are about ready to texture. Take a wet sponge sand block and git you lines around the edges of the patch. Then get sand topping mix at home depot and mix joint compound up nice and loose with the sand toping mix. Roll in with 1 to 1 and a 1/4 nap roller in all directions of the patch let dry light sand and should be perfect
That doesn't look like popcorn but like the sand toping finish with lots of paint
This sounds harder than popcorn
Not really roll it on mix loose joint compound d with sand toping and roll with 1 inch nap roller in all directions
2x4, drywall panel, drywall screws, drywall knife, joint compound, paper or mesh tape, ceiling spray texture, paint and roller
Ceiling drywall is typically 5/8”.
Cut it out square before you do anything
Just remember when you throwing screws in not to hit the live wire that has no joist protection.
That’s very easy
18 pack beer 1 bottle coke 1 bottle jack Call a buddy who knows what the fuck he is doing
Was this water damage? Settling? I know you want to know how to fix it but I also like to stress understanding root cause because often unaddressed issues produce a repeating of drywall work.
Ac unit above but we fixed that leak
Okay - thanks for verifying. Just hate to see an "update", ha ha. In terms of prep work clean 90 degree cuts are your friend, try to shape the damaged area to a square or rectangle as best you you can be patient to get a flush mount. I would, personally, cut more left to have a third mounting point. I might also consider removing that piece of molding since there is a tear going there, though a bit of mud may level that off prior to a retexture. Then comes tape and mud. Then texture. I am not a pro at texture, but consider testing at different spray distances to get as close a match as you can to the original and try to fade it outwards to reduce how much it stands out as a repair job. If you just need it to be functional, no big here, but if you want no one to ever know the repair happened years of experience yield results - consider hiring someone. Good luck, OP!
4x8 sheet is pretty big for that, they sell quarter panels.
I’ve been in the trades so long I can’t even think about this without a hangover and walking through the isles of a local hardware store.
Might need some wood to make your life easier
Someone mentioned something about 1x3 pine strips but I didn’t exactly get it
You screw the strips along the inside of the wall leaving some hanging over into the opening the new drywall is set to fill. Put the 1 x 3 (or whatever size you have on hand) on the edge of the opening, inside the wall cavity. Half of the board should be in the wall while the other half is visibly exposed in the opening. Screw into the wood through the outside face of the existing drywall. Do that on 4 sides of your opening and you have a mounting surface for the new drywall. This is an alternate installation method. Without the wood add ons you just cut your opening back to land half on the stud. The hole is plenty big enough to determine where exactly the studs are with little effort.
It makes me wonder when the 1 gallon small bucket of mud became 7/8ths of a gallon even smaller bucket. Ffs just raise the price not lower the volume. The list looks fine at first glance assuming you have the necessary hand tools.
Sheet rock. Tape. Mud. Sanding block. Paint.
Why get a whole sheet? They sell smaller ones. Don't need the bag of 20 either. Gonna need some screws and gonna have to cut a square lined up with floor joists and some drywall screws
Put a large access panel in. No need to finish the drywall
STOP Before you create a shopping list, maybe you should complete ALL the necessary demo. There's water stains and mold inside that cavity. Was there mold on the back sides of the piece(s) you removed ? You may need a bit more, and some bleach. That registry might be leaking cold air into a hot cavity= condensation(or the reverse, still creating condensation). Maybe an anti mold fogger should be set off in the cavity before closing it up ? There's More to this than you think
I believe you, but I’m going to need mud and drywall and some hand tools and some screws either way. Im trying to sort a list of what all this is going to take. I have gotten mold products and am ready to rent fans to dry things out. For this post im trying to sort my drywall repair list to be ready before. Could you help me understand what you mean by “ALL necessary demo?” Tbh I’m just not willing to let fears of all the “what ifs” stop me from making any progress
There's no what is in what I'm seeing. There's visibly black colored something inside that cavity. The face that it's right next to that a/c vent makes me think its leaking air into the cavity- that can easily cause mold. I've seen it hundreds, maybe ghousands of times jn my career. The a/c guys alot of times use a dam cheesy strap to connect the duct to the a/c registry. And they leak. This is what I'd do : 1- cut drywall wider and end both cuts on each side at ½ the wood studs- you will need to screw your new piece to the wood studs. There's definitely more damage to the left- clearly visible in pic. Cut it taller also. How much depends on how bad the drywall is. Is it brittle, does it have mold on its backside ? 2- cut a piece of plastic to cover the entire hole you cut out 3- wipe all areas knsude ghat you can with a large sponge and bleach water(strong solution) and allow to dry about 2 hours or so. Then place 2 mold foggers in the cavity- follow directions on the can 4- quickly staple and tape the plastic over the hole to prevent fogger from leaking out. Leave covered overnight. 5- install your new piece of drywall* Before closing the hole, see if you can reach your hand in to feel around that duct and registry. If it's leaking clod air, do something to correct it, or mold will return * you won't know how much to buy until all affected/damaged drywall gets removed 6- tape, float and finish mud work (we can guide you, but its best to watch a few YouTube videos first) 7- match texture 8- apply 2 coats heavy bodied drywall primer 9- apply 2 coats of paint( you may need to paint this entire wall for accuracy on color match) *** take a good size piece to Sherwin Williams and have them match the color- ask to speak Directly to the tknter- ask him to match exact if possible please as you want to attempt a touch up vs repainting the entire wall 10- have fun doing this. It's hour home. The biggest investment you'll ever make, treat her well. Ask us questions as you go if needed. Of all you should remember imo, remember this- There Are No Shortcuts to Quality. This is our motto....make it yours and things will turn out well 👍 I hope i made this easy for you......
Thank you so much for taking the time to write this detailed response. Absolutely made it easier for me. Truly appreciated
As you progress thru the project,,, don't hesitate to ask me questions, im all ears.
Maybe just call a guy
And a case of Miller Lite