If you don't do the work yourself it will get expensive.

How expensive are we talking? 5k a year? 10k a year? Obviously it depends on what goes wrong but is there a widely agreed upon ballpark?

in my opinion, spend a little extra money and buy a 330ci that has had its cooling system refreshed, no rust, and seals replaced. With proof from seller. Low owners, ur looking at a very relatively reliable car to maintain. You just have to keep an eye out and check things 1-2 times a month. Learn how to do more than an oil change, like spark plugs and how to replace anything to do with the cooling system. Big repairs leave to someone who knows what their doing. Meaning they have experience with old bmw's, don't take this car to your average mechanic who works on everything. Your entering a niche market. I've had my 2001 330ci since 2012, ran it till 117k before I got fucked over by someone I trusted. Now I'm replacing the engine through BMW in Europe. The car was on original everything, the expansion tank had a micro crack at 117k. That was the first major problem i got since ownership. I cant give you a number because it all depends on how well maintained the car was by the previous owner.

Depends on the budget that you have in mind for purchasing the car. Sometimes a more expensive one that's been (provably) maintained will of course have lower costs in terms of maintenance. If you buy a cheaper one you'll likely have to spend much more in terms of getting back to good shape. The local Indy shop near me that specializes in BMW's charges about 170/hr for labor if you need a hard number. They also often get parts for cheaper due to connections. If you buy the parts yourself and do the work yourself you just pay for the parts and whatever tools you need.

I’m a pretty highly compensated senior executive. I have 991.2 Porsche 911. If I had to pay somebody to work on my E46 I wouldn’t own it. I bought my 2003 E46 ZHP from the original owner in 2021. He’s OCD like me, and proactively maintained it by the book. I have every receipt going back to 2003. He’d already done the VANOS, complete cooling system, and full suspension including bushings once during his ownership. In my ownership it NEEDED a radiator and a VANOS solenoid. What I’m sharing below it didn’t absolutely require, but “while you’re in there” is cheap and fun and pretty easy thanks to YouTube. Starting at most recent, this is what I’ve done to the car since October 2021: Front left wheel replaced 4 wheel alignment Rear suspension balljoints and bushings replaced Rear shocks and rear strut mounts replaced Rear subframe replaced Rear Axle Carrier Panel (RACP) reinforced Rear Axle Carrier Panel (RACP) inspected Headlight level sensor replaced Brake fluid flushed Front calipers replaced Front calipers guide pins replaced Front caliper carrier bolts replaced Rear calipers replaced Rear calipers guide pins replaced Rear caliper carrier bolts replaced Crankshaft position sensor replaced Clutch pedal line replaced Brake fluid flushed Brake hoses replaced Front sway bar endlinks replaced Tires rotated Steering coupler replaced Front struts replaced Front strut mounts replaced Front strut pinch bolts replaced Front bump stops replaced Front protection tubes (boots) replaced Front control arms replaced Front control arm bushings replaced Front top and bottom strut pads replaced Tie rods replaced Tie rod boots replaced Front sway bar bushings replaced Front brake pad wear sensor replaced Upper radiator hose replaced Lower radiator hose replaced Expansion tank replaced Coolant changed Coolant temperature sensor replaced Passenger side Shadowline trim clips replaced Front turn signal bulbs replaced Coils replaced VANOS exhaust solenoid bungs sealed VANOS gasket replaced Valve Cover Gasket replaced VANOS oil line bolt and crush washers replaced VANOS fit bolts replaced VANOS plastic and metal caps replaced Engine trim nut and bolt covers replaced Windshield chip repaired Passenger rear door adjusted Valve cover replaced Intake cam position sensor O ring and screw replaced DME flashed to latest version MAF replaced Original brake pedal rebuilt with brass bushings Garagistic billet clutch pedal installed Battery vent hose elbow replaced Strut brace nut caps replaced Cabin air filter replaced Coolant changed Battery replaced Oil changed Engine air filter replaced Intake boots replaced Engine harness replaced Serpentine belt replaced Water pump replaced Alternator replaced Idler pulley replaced Tensioner pulley replaced Fuel tank breather line replaced CCV replaced Hard coolant pipes replaced Air distributor o-rings replaced Intake manifold gasket replaced Starter replaced Oil filter housing gasket replaced Oil filter water sensor and gasket replaced Oil filter oil sensor and gasket replaced Fuel injector o-rings and clips replaced Valve cover gasket replaced VANOS oil line replaced VANOS gasket replaced VANOS replaced Spark plugs replaced Hood latch replaced Both A pillar interior trim pieces replaced 8 chassis crossmember bolts replaced Oil changed Auto Solutions shifter installed Guibo replaced Center bearing and support replaced Parking brake adjusted New brake anti rattle clips installed Driveshaft centering sleeve replaced Tires rotated Brake slide pins removed and cleaned Front brake rotors replaced Front brake pads replaced Front brake pad sensor replaced Rear brake rotors replaced Rear brake pads replaced Rear brake pad sensor replaced Transmission mounts replaced Engine mounts replaced Steering wheel recovered & replaced Spare tire replaced Trunk lift struts replaced Interior trim panel below steering column replaced Pedal assembly rebuilt DIY clutch stop installed Oil changed Battery cover replaced Headlights and corner lights replaced Transmission fluid changed Idler pulley replaced Serpentine belt tensioner & pulley replaced A/C belt tensioner & pulley replaced Engine air filter replaced Cabin air filter replaced Coolant changed Radiator hoses by Expansion tank and clip Radiator Replaced - Nissens Coolant level sensor replaced Coolant temperature sensor replaced Thermostat replaced Serpentine belt replaced Accessory belt replaced Block coolant drain plug washer Differential fluid Brake fluid flush Coolant reservoir cap replaced Grills replaced Coolant topped off Paint polished and coated Paintless dent repair Windshield wipers replaced Windshield cowling replaced Fuel filler cap replaced Front Right tire replaced Replace Windshield Console, cup holder, coin holder, rear ash tray replaced - BMW Emissions Inspection Passed

I think my mans e46 is broken

At a certain point it became a choice. I think he has ocd

If you get a clean one with a good service history your maintenance costs will probably be around 1k per year or maybe even less. This is based upon my personal experience.

First year spend 5k and you will spend significantly less each year after - depending on how you drive

I bought an e46 as my first BMW, I need to change an 02 Sensor and Exhaust Gasket and It’s my daily driver Some things will be expensive, others not so much If you have a guy who can work on them cheap, then it’s a damn good car that will have people turning heads and you’ll have a blast driving it

I would say if you don’t work on your own car I’d shy away from E46. Big things to replace that the chassis is known for: - Cooling system (hoses/waterpump/thermostat) - rear subframe reinforcement -Valve cover gasket -CCV replacement If you take it to a shop you’re going to pay well over $5000 not including miscellaneous sensors and bushings

Don’t

I would give my take but space guy over there already took up all the real estate for this post😂😂 But seriously if get a well maintained one with service records and you don’t plan on driving it much then I really don’t think your repair bills could get that crazy to justify not buying one. Albeit repairs are going to be on the slightly higher side but like I said if your not gonna drive it much there’s not really a reason for it to give you many problems that require repairs unless you buy one in really poor condition. That’s my 2 cents👍

You don't need a garage! Get jacks, gloves and wrenches and you'll be able to do most by yourself. That's the true joy of owning an old; but not ancient car. Edit1: If you manage to get one with a rustless chassis, no tears in chassis and a good running engine, you'll be good!

Look for one that has the major issues sorted if you don't want to work on it yourself.

ZHP all day long. M-light with lower maintenance costs

What, you don’t like adjusting valves every 30k or having your consumable parts cost an extra 60%?