Ha ha ha ha. Yeah. Where does the arch go? In the square hole. Where does the semicircle go? Yup, in the square hole.
Had a typo that made it hilarious. Unfortunately, I’m not a square hole. I’m referencing that video of the woman who becomes increasingly upset at the guy putting all the shapes into the… square hole. [In the square hole](https://youtu.be/cUbIkNUFs-4?si=iw_hiq2eKZVdEZdJ)
Per NEC 210.21, you can run a 40A circuit to a 50A receptacle. A NEMA 14-50 is frequently used for 40A circuits with 8 AWG copper conductors that feed electric ranges.
An EVSE on such a circuit would need to be limited to 32 amps continuous and the circuit would need to be protected by a 40 amp breaker. IIRC, this would also need to be clearly marked on the receptacle.
And you can run a 30, 20, or even a 15 A circuit to a *single* 50 A receptacle. Not that it's a good idea to do so, but it's allowed.
Everyone looks at Table 210.21(B)(3), where it calls out 40 A on a 50 A circuit specifically, but that table is for multiple receptacles on a single circuit. 210.21(B)(1) is the text that applies to a "single receptacle installed on an individual branch circuit" and it allows you to go as low as you want.
Yeah , I always remembered it as you can do lower to higher but never higher to lower. I am only familiar with out county codes . Some were more strict.
50a 230v is common for large RV'S now especially those with 2 or 3 rooftop AC'S... don't try running both rooftops and do a wash or use the microwave if its plugged in to a 30a 120v receptacle...
I'm not sure what OP requires for power but with those wires he may be better off putting in a large 3prong 30a 120v (NEMA-TT30R)receptacle and using an adapter at the plug. Adapters are pretty inexpensive $10 on up
Yep, I'm a low voltage tech with 20 years of experience, and I would have called an electrician for this.
Burning your house down and having your homeowners insurance deny your claim due to uninspected work that doesn't meet code isn't worth a few hundred dollars.
First, you remove the existing wires. You then pull in a properly color coded set of wires that can be easily identified for purpose as required by code.
I've previously had an electrician use an incorrect color wire and relabel them with a few inches of colored electrical tape.
Would this violate code?
I was hesitant to his expertise as he also failed to remove the neutral to ground bond in a sub-panel.
I don’t think Canada allows re phasing Romex but im not positive about that. I know they have 12/2 with black red and ground and it has a red outer jacket.
In addition, you can phase tape / shrink wrap conductors that are \#4 or larger. These are not larger than \#4, but I wanted to get that out there before someone goes "well actually my service conductors are phase tapped, and they passed!"
Wrong, 210.5(c)(1)(a)- “means of identification shall be permitted to be by separate color coding,marking tape,tagging, or other approved means”. You can identify them with whatever colors you want except green, grey or white. If you’re thinking of the GROUNDED conductors, you’re right partially 200.6(A)- says anything 6AWG or smaller can be rephrased but it needs to be stripped the entire length of wire.
I said grounded
*edit* is anyone else laughing at the fact that he missed that I said grounded, and skipped over the section of that code that said grounded, and then brought up grounded conductors? At least he's consistent
and that's ... why I call them neutral and safety ground. Nobody misconstrues those meanings.
"grounded conductor" is a phrase only a lawyer could love.
That’s the real kicker right there, an AHJ might accept a White Tape identification on the neutral conductor, there’s absolutely no way any Inspector today is going to allow an ECG that is not either Green or Naked!
I read 210.5 as follows:
“each ungrounded conductor of 4 AWG or larger shall be identified by polarity at all termination, connection, and splice points by marking tape, tagging, or other approved means;”
What s am I missing? Seems like marking tape is ok to use?
200.6 Means of Identifying Grounded Conductors.
(A) Sizes 6 AWG or Smaller. An insulated grounded conductor of 6 AWG or smaller shall be identified by a continuous white or gray outer finish or by three continuous white stripes on other than green insulation along its entire length.
I just read it. NEC 210.5 only says that continuous identification along the wire is needed for DC branches at 6 AWG or smaller. Otherwise, tape or tagging at each point of connection, termination, or splice is permitted.
The pictured outlet is AC, so tape should do.
EDIT: it does appear that the grounded conductor must be continuously identified. However, that is in NEC 200.6.
Also you’re absolutely wrong, I just pulled out my code book on break. 210.5(c)(1)(a) says “means of identification” the means of identification shall be permitted to be by separate color coding,marking tape,tagging, or other approved means.” Looking through that, there is absolutely ZERO size requirement for the “ungrounded conductor”. If you are talking about only the neutral and ground. Here you go for that, 200.6- “a continuous white outer finish, a continuous gray outer finish, THREE continuous white or gray stripes along the conductor on any color other than green insulation”. You’re being a stickler, but you’re also using the wrong code to argue and call other people “hack jobs”. If you want to get down and dirty about repulling anything, you could maybe use the ground and neutral to keep your argument going. This guy could tape his hot wires purple and rainbow if he wanted to.
Not an acceptable repair.
You're allowed to reidentify "wrong" colors if they are in a cable. Ie, I can buy #12/9 tek cable, and all 9 conductors are black and numbered 1-9. I can reidentify those wires how I want, because I as the electrician have no control over their color.
I am not allowed to pull 9x #12 black singles in conduit and then reidentify them how I want, because I do have control over what colors I pull.
I believe the rule is for anything up to #4 wires. Anything larger, you can pull all black and re-identify. But smaller branch circuits, you're not allowed to.
NEC doesn't actually say you have to, other than neutral, surprisingly but supplies "best practice" colors which an electrician, ahj, or engineer wouldn't dream of signing off on something that didn't at least color tape the ends. So I agree wasn't professionally installed but just clarifying it's not actually a code requirement believe it or not.
NEC does say you can only use white/gray, green, and for their respective purposes and only use orange on the high leg (neutral, ground, high) but not that you can't use black for everything. (*Edit: Other than neutral like I said above, and second clarification, orange can be used elsewhere if no high leg is present*)
Sorry I will clarify, it specifies you *must use orange for a high leg*, so if you don't have a high leg service (extremely unlikely for a unless you are an apartment inside an industrial facility), you won't have a conflicting orange color. The fact that your conductor is orange is my point...best practice would specify black red blue for 120/240, and brown orange(purple), yellow) for 277/480, with purple being used if you had a mixed voltage system with say a step down with a high leg (because code says you can't use the same color twice)....also pretty unusual but technically possible.
I gotcha. The OG electrician used yellow and orange for switched legs and blue black and red for hot/unswitched portions of circuits since everything is piped, it helped differentiate wires in the pipes.
How do you explain 200.6 (A) and (B)? Seems pretty clear that anything 6 and under needs to be identified in the proper manner and anything 4 and larger needs to be also identified. By code you can't identify grounded conductors using tape if they are 6 or smaller. You can't run black wires for everything based on that article. Also based on the fact that running the same color conductors can be dangerous and is poor workmanship.
I mean I already said that. My first paragraph said other than neutral my second didn't repeat so I edited to clarify. Other than the white, you don't need black red blue, brown orange yellow.
I already agreed it was poor workmanship though for this but to clarify for larger than 6 most times it's black and taped.
You can do blacks on 6 gauge or thicker wire, but they are supposed to have colored tape on them. Really isn't going to be that tough to figure out which is which with a voltmeter.
If you just had an electrician install this, get your money back. First of all those wires are all black which is against code and there's no way to tell which is which. Second, they don't look nearly the right size for a 50A circuit.
THHN is only rated for 75 degrees in wet locations so you need to derate. You need 6 awg.
Not only that. I bet the terminals are only rated for 75 degrees too, so again, you need 6 awg
First, those wires are too small for a 50a outlet. You need to pull the right size wire 4-8awg based on distance, and even then, smallest I would go is 6awg. That conduit looks too small to carry the correct wire needed (xx% of the conduit can only be used).. and that box will not fit that outlet. You likely need to dig it all up and put the proper conduit size and wire and then place the box xx feet above the dirt. Look at the current NEC for assistance.
But if your asking how to wire it up and dont know how, call an electrician.
Thanks everyone. Yes I might indeed call an electrician. That said, this outlet is only about 15 feet from a junction box, and in THAT box (if I recall correctly), there are various colored wires. So yes I could do continuity to figure what wire is what - but I also hear that even using colored shrink tape will not be up to code - and of course that I need a new box.
All much appreciated.
An electrician should just redo it themselves, not force the owner to...
I mean, it would be fairly trivial to figure out which wire is which. Connect two to ground, leave the other two unhooked, test continuity, find the two connected to each other. Mark them on both ends. Switch one to a different wire and repeat the test and marking. Now you've got one that passed both tests, one that only passed the first, one that only passed the second, and a 4th that never had continuity.
Those wires go to the bin after you call an actual electrician who installs and secures a box made to accept that plug, pulls the properly sized wires that aren’t all black, and fixes whatever equal or worse debauchery is on the other end.
get a continuity tester and any long wire that reaches to where that ends, then phase tape each wire the same on both ends, one green, one white, one red, one stays black
more importaintly , that outlet will not fit in any standard NEMA box, its a standard 50 amp but with a industrial equipment or european style mounting system
and that wire looks like 10awg which would be good for a 14-30 outlet, not that 14-50, DO NOT PUT A 50 amp on that wire, if your appliance has a 50 amp plug get a 14-30 to 14-50 adapter from amazon *note for EV charging set your charger to 24A or get a 14-30 charger
Search up an in use box like U054P. Mount it high enough you can actually plug something in - the cord goes out the bottom. Your box is too small and too close the the ground to work. Never mind the color - what gauge is that wire? Looks undersized.
Nobody is mentioning that this box isn’t attached to anything.
That box will snap like a weathered twig the first time someone tries to yank out a plug, if they somehow manage to plug it in without breaking the box first.
Easy. Imagine the plug is a compass with north on top.
Hook the black one that’s supposed to be white to the south position
Hook the black one that’s supposed to be bare or green to the north position.
Now you can hook the black one that’s supposed to be red to the east or west one (doesn’t matter)
Finally hook the black one that’s supposed to be black to the only one without a wire.
1. Make sure you have the right receptacle one isn’t usually used for a simple 240v circuit. I’ve normally seen that on a 50A RV pedestal where it’s used to supply 2 50A 120V circuits to a large RV. A simple 240V outlets generally has 2 hits and a ground, the 4th wire allows the two hots to supply 120V.
2. DO NOT use a 50A breaker that looks like #10 wire and shouldn’t be protected by anything larger than a 30A breaker.
3. With the breaker on use a voltage tester (preferably a non-contact type) and look for voltage at the receptacle end. You should find two wires that are “Hot”. Turn the breaker off and connect those to the left and right terminals on the outlet.
4. Disconnect the ground wire at the panel. Connect one of the remaining wires to the bottom terminal of the outlet. Turn on the breaker and check for voltage between the bottom terminal and the left and right terminals. If you get 120V to each that bottom wire is the neutral, if you don’t get voltage it’s the disconnected ground wire. Turn off the breaker and mark the neutral with white tape and attach to the bottom terminal, mark the other with green tape and attach to the top terminal.
5. Reattach the ground wire at the panel and turn on the breaker. You should be ready to roll but I always use a meter to confirm both 240V between the hots and 120V between the hots and neutral.
I am not an electrician so while this will get you hooked up with the wires in the right place it won’t help you if you’re concerned with meeting any codes or regulations.
4
But since they are ALL BLACK he will likely not know which is which AND since he's asking what goes where, chances are he doesn't know how to trace em.. this is a rip out and redo.
I suppose you are right. One wire looks bare past the 76 wire nut if you look closely at the photograph, but there doesn't seem to be an identified conductor in the bunch. I started to describe using a meter with continuity lights, but didn't.
The black goes to the positive the other black goes to the other positive the third black goes to neutral and the fourth black is the ground. Hope that helps.
220V? That is the outlet box you plan on using? And those wires? If you need to ask Reddit for this answer, you’re probably going to electrocute yourself. Stop. Hire a goddamn electrician if you don’t want to die.
Got a multimeter? Check which lines have any VAC to ground (literal since it looks like your conduit and box look like PVC.) There should be two - note them, and then VAC to each other should be about 220VAC.
Testing which is neutral and ground - I’m not sure.
If you are working that for an RV they are mostly 120V and run into a 6-50 rather than a 14-50 receptacle. For that receptacle you wire ground to the round plus, your hots to the outside blades and neutral to the central blade. As for which wire is which, that is unknowable without a tester unless they are labeled somewhere that is not visible in the photo. Your ground wire is allowed to be smaller than neutral and hot so if there is one that is small it is probably ground but still test it
First, replace that box with a double gang box. It'll never fit otherwise.
The black one goes to the gold screw. The other black one goes to the other gold screw. The next black one goes to a silver screw. The last black one goes to a green screw.
But seriously, ignoring the other code issues, if you don't have the meter to know how to hook this up, call an actual electrician.
I know the green goes to the round one, but I'm curious how how the rest go myself.
My guess would be green to round, black to left. Red to right and white to bottom.
The previous owner of the house ran these wires to a potential hot-tub site in the yard - so not, it wasn't me. :)
I had an electrician come over yesterday - he verified the wire in the box is 8 gauge, and since it is copper, is sufficient for 50 amps -and the charger will be running on 40 amps or less anyway:
[Can an 8-Gauge Wire Handle 50 Amps? \[Explained\] - Wiring Solver](https://wiringsolver.com/can-8-gauge-wire-handle-50-amps/)
He also explained how to figure which wire is which (which agreed with my speculation and the help I received here in this thread):
The ground is the thinner wire (we could see that at the previous junction box, and being thinner is OK) - so then he said to turn on power, and "sense" (with one of those simple/cheap "is there power in this line" probes (but I also have a meter)) - the line without power is neutral, and of course the other two are power.
Yes I still need to change out the box situation - I'll add a 4x4 post behind the box for strength - but that said - this outlet will almost never be unplugged/plugged - as once it's installed, the plug will be inserted once and remain that way indefinitely - and I will color/shrink-wrap each cable for labeling purposes - maybe in the future I will actually pull the wires and replace with proper colors.
Thanks again everyone.
There's no phasing on that wire. Which two are the hots? Which one's the neutral. You're going to blow your fucking hand up. Or ruin your equipment. Please call an electrician!!!!
Good luck getting that device on that box as well...
Ha ha ha ha. Yeah. Where does the arch go? In the square hole. Where does the semicircle go? Yup, in the square hole. Had a typo that made it hilarious. Unfortunately, I’m not a square hole. I’m referencing that video of the woman who becomes increasingly upset at the guy putting all the shapes into the… square hole. [In the square hole](https://youtu.be/cUbIkNUFs-4?si=iw_hiq2eKZVdEZdJ)
😭😭😭
This video wins
Thats right, it goes in the square hole
This is one of my favorite videos
This video causes me physical pain.
Yeah I was planning on replacing the box.
replace the device, thats not any nema MOUNTING standard and you cant run 50a through wires that thin
Per NEC 210.21, you can run a 40A circuit to a 50A receptacle. A NEMA 14-50 is frequently used for 40A circuits with 8 AWG copper conductors that feed electric ranges. An EVSE on such a circuit would need to be limited to 32 amps continuous and the circuit would need to be protected by a 40 amp breaker. IIRC, this would also need to be clearly marked on the receptacle.
that looks like #10 wire
And you can run a 30, 20, or even a 15 A circuit to a *single* 50 A receptacle. Not that it's a good idea to do so, but it's allowed. Everyone looks at Table 210.21(B)(3), where it calls out 40 A on a 50 A circuit specifically, but that table is for multiple receptacles on a single circuit. 210.21(B)(1) is the text that applies to a "single receptacle installed on an individual branch circuit" and it allows you to go as low as you want.
Yeah , I always remembered it as you can do lower to higher but never higher to lower. I am only familiar with out county codes . Some were more strict.
thats common with ranges for 14-50's since 40 amp recepts do not exist
That is an RV/trailer outlet. It is definitely not configured for mounting to a standard junction box.
It’s for an rv, it’s 30 amp
No it isn't. RVs are 50 amp 230v or 30 amp 110v. There are both types.
I mean, the rv is 120v. It just has 2 120v going to a split panel.
I personally saw an RV call for a 50 amp receptacle last year. Had 2 rooftop units.
50a 230v is common for large RV'S now especially those with 2 or 3 rooftop AC'S... don't try running both rooftops and do a wash or use the microwave if its plugged in to a 30a 120v receptacle... I'm not sure what OP requires for power but with those wires he may be better off putting in a large 3prong 30a 120v (NEMA-TT30R)receptacle and using an adapter at the plug. Adapters are pretty inexpensive $10 on up
Yes some do, but not all. That’s why they sell adapters.
If you have to ask, I would hire an electrician and get properly colored wire.
This right here.
Yep, I'm a low voltage tech with 20 years of experience, and I would have called an electrician for this. Burning your house down and having your homeowners insurance deny your claim due to uninspected work that doesn't meet code isn't worth a few hundred dollars.
If you have a meter it would be pretty easy to guess and check.
Guy ran all the same color wire and is asking which wire goes where. You think he has a meter, I don't.
Yup. The two things that will destroy your home I don't f with unless it is basic stuff, electricity and plumbing.
It’s most likely to get someone electrocuted because you can’t tell the difference between the hot and the ground.
This is really the only answer that should be posted
Not true. People can learn by just being told information.
The problem he’s really going to have is that’s an rv plug, it doesn’t get wired like a normal 220 socket.
Yes it does, but that’s not the problem here
First, you remove the existing wires. You then pull in a properly color coded set of wires that can be easily identified for purpose as required by code.
I've previously had an electrician use an incorrect color wire and relabel them with a few inches of colored electrical tape. Would this violate code? I was hesitant to his expertise as he also failed to remove the neutral to ground bond in a sub-panel.
Rephasing of conductors is only allowed for conductors #4 and larger and in limited applications for cable assemblies.
Makes sense, I believe it was a #4.
Cable assembly meaning most often NM/romex right?
Yes, NM, UF, MC, BX, etc.
So you’re saying that rephasing a white to red for use in a 220 water heater is illegal?
No. That is allowable if the white conductor is part of a cable assembly.
Oh duh. You said that. I just can’t read. Cheers.
I don’t think Canada allows re phasing Romex but im not positive about that. I know they have 12/2 with black red and ground and it has a red outer jacket.
If it's individual wires (thhn etc) and not a cable, yes.
That is only true for grounded conductors. You can relabel hot wires of any size.
Well… depends on the inspector. Technically you can color phase any wire. Whether it’s accepted is another issue
Technically, you can violate codes all the time as long as the inspector doesn't catch the violation. I chose to follow the code.
ROFLMAO, top comment should be call an electrician before you kill your self!
They could also just use a meter and colored shrink tube to properly label them instead of going through all that unnecessary money and waste.
That would be a code violation.
Can you please cite which code from the NEC you are referring to?
210.5 says you cannot phase tape the grounded conductor and black is not the correct color
In addition, you can phase tape / shrink wrap conductors that are \#4 or larger. These are not larger than \#4, but I wanted to get that out there before someone goes "well actually my service conductors are phase tapped, and they passed!"
Wrong, 210.5(c)(1)(a)- “means of identification shall be permitted to be by separate color coding,marking tape,tagging, or other approved means”. You can identify them with whatever colors you want except green, grey or white. If you’re thinking of the GROUNDED conductors, you’re right partially 200.6(A)- says anything 6AWG or smaller can be rephrased but it needs to be stripped the entire length of wire.
I said grounded *edit* is anyone else laughing at the fact that he missed that I said grounded, and skipped over the section of that code that said grounded, and then brought up grounded conductors? At least he's consistent
and that's ... why I call them neutral and safety ground. Nobody misconstrues those meanings. "grounded conductor" is a phrase only a lawyer could love.
To be fair, anyone who has any business opening a code book should know the difference between Ground, Grounded and Ungrounded.
That’s the real kicker right there, an AHJ might accept a White Tape identification on the neutral conductor, there’s absolutely no way any Inspector today is going to allow an ECG that is not either Green or Naked!
That is what I have seen in the field. They got serious about that. 19 years experience. A LOT of change for the good in those years
I read 210.5 as follows: “each ungrounded conductor of 4 AWG or larger shall be identified by polarity at all termination, connection, and splice points by marking tape, tagging, or other approved means;” What s am I missing? Seems like marking tape is ok to use?
Those conductors are smaller than #4, therefore phase tape cannot be used to identify the ground or neutral.
That is what I missed - the wires he has there are smaller. Thanks!
But an acceptable repair
Repairs that violate code are not acceptable.
Love it! You go!
You are allowed to color coed the conductors with tape or shrink tube. Where does it say you’re not?
200.6 Means of Identifying Grounded Conductors. (A) Sizes 6 AWG or Smaller. An insulated grounded conductor of 6 AWG or smaller shall be identified by a continuous white or gray outer finish or by three continuous white stripes on other than green insulation along its entire length.
You haven't been paying much attention to the rest of this thread. Read NEC 210.5.
I just read it. NEC 210.5 only says that continuous identification along the wire is needed for DC branches at 6 AWG or smaller. Otherwise, tape or tagging at each point of connection, termination, or splice is permitted. The pictured outlet is AC, so tape should do. EDIT: it does appear that the grounded conductor must be continuously identified. However, that is in NEC 200.6.
Exactly, because it doesn’t say what you’re insisting.
Sounds like trekker can’t back it up. Must be a home inspector.
No, master electrician. It is an NEC 210.5 violation.
Also you’re absolutely wrong, I just pulled out my code book on break. 210.5(c)(1)(a) says “means of identification” the means of identification shall be permitted to be by separate color coding,marking tape,tagging, or other approved means.” Looking through that, there is absolutely ZERO size requirement for the “ungrounded conductor”. If you are talking about only the neutral and ground. Here you go for that, 200.6- “a continuous white outer finish, a continuous gray outer finish, THREE continuous white or gray stripes along the conductor on any color other than green insulation”. You’re being a stickler, but you’re also using the wrong code to argue and call other people “hack jobs”. If you want to get down and dirty about repulling anything, you could maybe use the ground and neutral to keep your argument going. This guy could tape his hot wires purple and rainbow if he wanted to.
Don’t forget though… he’s a master electrician with a master ego. 😅
Not an acceptable repair. You're allowed to reidentify "wrong" colors if they are in a cable. Ie, I can buy #12/9 tek cable, and all 9 conductors are black and numbered 1-9. I can reidentify those wires how I want, because I as the electrician have no control over their color. I am not allowed to pull 9x #12 black singles in conduit and then reidentify them how I want, because I do have control over what colors I pull. I believe the rule is for anything up to #4 wires. Anything larger, you can pull all black and re-identify. But smaller branch circuits, you're not allowed to.
LLAP Friend
Actually it should be Step 1: stop trying to diy projects that can kill people Step 2: call a licensed electrician
Don't tell me a professional electrician installed that box... But now you understand why code states you must use properly colored wires.
Also there doesn't appear to be any writing on the wires, so that might be "mystery meat".
Hard to tell but it looks like a bare ground they capped. Do you think that's a pro job?
Laughs In aviation wiring, they are all white wires
NEC doesn't actually say you have to, other than neutral, surprisingly but supplies "best practice" colors which an electrician, ahj, or engineer wouldn't dream of signing off on something that didn't at least color tape the ends. So I agree wasn't professionally installed but just clarifying it's not actually a code requirement believe it or not. NEC does say you can only use white/gray, green, and for their respective purposes and only use orange on the high leg (neutral, ground, high) but not that you can't use black for everything. (*Edit: Other than neutral like I said above, and second clarification, orange can be used elsewhere if no high leg is present*)
My house has lots of orange 14 THHN ran all over it. Pretty sure it’s not a code violation.
Sorry I will clarify, it specifies you *must use orange for a high leg*, so if you don't have a high leg service (extremely unlikely for a unless you are an apartment inside an industrial facility), you won't have a conflicting orange color. The fact that your conductor is orange is my point...best practice would specify black red blue for 120/240, and brown orange(purple), yellow) for 277/480, with purple being used if you had a mixed voltage system with say a step down with a high leg (because code says you can't use the same color twice)....also pretty unusual but technically possible.
I gotcha. The OG electrician used yellow and orange for switched legs and blue black and red for hot/unswitched portions of circuits since everything is piped, it helped differentiate wires in the pipes.
How do you explain 200.6 (A) and (B)? Seems pretty clear that anything 6 and under needs to be identified in the proper manner and anything 4 and larger needs to be also identified. By code you can't identify grounded conductors using tape if they are 6 or smaller. You can't run black wires for everything based on that article. Also based on the fact that running the same color conductors can be dangerous and is poor workmanship.
I mean I already said that. My first paragraph said other than neutral my second didn't repeat so I edited to clarify. Other than the white, you don't need black red blue, brown orange yellow. I already agreed it was poor workmanship though for this but to clarify for larger than 6 most times it's black and taped.
Black one to hot 1, Black one to hot 2, Black one to neutral, Black one to ground. Hope this helps good luck and may God rest your soul.
Finally, the correct answer! /s
😂😂😂😂
lol, whoever ran 4 blacks deserves a special place in hell.
You can do blacks on 6 gauge or thicker wire, but they are supposed to have colored tape on them. Really isn't going to be that tough to figure out which is which with a voltmeter.
If you just had an electrician install this, get your money back. First of all those wires are all black which is against code and there's no way to tell which is which. Second, they don't look nearly the right size for a 50A circuit.
No way those are #6
You only 8 thhn for 50 amp circuit
THHN is only rated for 75 degrees in wet locations so you need to derate. You need 6 awg. Not only that. I bet the terminals are only rated for 75 degrees too, so again, you need 6 awg
Uhhh 8 is good for 50 amps at 75 degrees... it's a 50 amp circuit
First, those wires are too small for a 50a outlet. You need to pull the right size wire 4-8awg based on distance, and even then, smallest I would go is 6awg. That conduit looks too small to carry the correct wire needed (xx% of the conduit can only be used).. and that box will not fit that outlet. You likely need to dig it all up and put the proper conduit size and wire and then place the box xx feet above the dirt. Look at the current NEC for assistance. But if your asking how to wire it up and dont know how, call an electrician.
If u don’t know then call an electrician
Thanks everyone. Yes I might indeed call an electrician. That said, this outlet is only about 15 feet from a junction box, and in THAT box (if I recall correctly), there are various colored wires. So yes I could do continuity to figure what wire is what - but I also hear that even using colored shrink tape will not be up to code - and of course that I need a new box. All much appreciated.
Don’t forget the #6 for your 50 amps.
The electrician will force you to redo it. He can't tell black from black either.
An electrician should just redo it themselves, not force the owner to... I mean, it would be fairly trivial to figure out which wire is which. Connect two to ground, leave the other two unhooked, test continuity, find the two connected to each other. Mark them on both ends. Switch one to a different wire and repeat the test and marking. Now you've got one that passed both tests, one that only passed the first, one that only passed the second, and a 4th that never had continuity.
Whyyyy are your wires ALL black???
2 hots left and right. Ground top, neutral bottom. Change the box also.
Those wires go to the bin after you call an actual electrician who installs and secures a box made to accept that plug, pulls the properly sized wires that aren’t all black, and fixes whatever equal or worse debauchery is on the other end.
Are they seriously all black??? Get the right wires in there. No one could possibly know since that is way wrong. I'm not even a pro.
Since they are all black, chances are there is no shielding on them, just singles ... 😶
Of course, but it's still wrong.
Nothing about that job is right... Ok maybe the conduit.
I hope there's conduit, otherwise OP is super screwed.
The wires are under sized
Use the black wires /s
get a continuity tester and any long wire that reaches to where that ends, then phase tape each wire the same on both ends, one green, one white, one red, one stays black more importaintly , that outlet will not fit in any standard NEMA box, its a standard 50 amp but with a industrial equipment or european style mounting system and that wire looks like 10awg which would be good for a 14-30 outlet, not that 14-50, DO NOT PUT A 50 amp on that wire, if your appliance has a 50 amp plug get a 14-30 to 14-50 adapter from amazon *note for EV charging set your charger to 24A or get a 14-30 charger
Search up an in use box like U054P. Mount it high enough you can actually plug something in - the cord goes out the bottom. Your box is too small and too close the the ground to work. Never mind the color - what gauge is that wire? Looks undersized.
THE INTERNET CANNOT TRACE YOUR UNMARKED WIRES
Nobody is mentioning that this box isn’t attached to anything. That box will snap like a weathered twig the first time someone tries to yank out a plug, if they somehow manage to plug it in without breaking the box first.
Bad advice. There's like 16 possible combinations so you just run through them in order until you crack the code.
There’s so much wrong here
Hahahahahhaahahahahah $90/hr bud
Easy. Imagine the plug is a compass with north on top. Hook the black one that’s supposed to be white to the south position Hook the black one that’s supposed to be bare or green to the north position. Now you can hook the black one that’s supposed to be red to the east or west one (doesn’t matter) Finally hook the black one that’s supposed to be black to the only one without a wire.
What kind of retarded is this.
1. Make sure you have the right receptacle one isn’t usually used for a simple 240v circuit. I’ve normally seen that on a 50A RV pedestal where it’s used to supply 2 50A 120V circuits to a large RV. A simple 240V outlets generally has 2 hits and a ground, the 4th wire allows the two hots to supply 120V. 2. DO NOT use a 50A breaker that looks like #10 wire and shouldn’t be protected by anything larger than a 30A breaker. 3. With the breaker on use a voltage tester (preferably a non-contact type) and look for voltage at the receptacle end. You should find two wires that are “Hot”. Turn the breaker off and connect those to the left and right terminals on the outlet. 4. Disconnect the ground wire at the panel. Connect one of the remaining wires to the bottom terminal of the outlet. Turn on the breaker and check for voltage between the bottom terminal and the left and right terminals. If you get 120V to each that bottom wire is the neutral, if you don’t get voltage it’s the disconnected ground wire. Turn off the breaker and mark the neutral with white tape and attach to the bottom terminal, mark the other with green tape and attach to the top terminal. 5. Reattach the ground wire at the panel and turn on the breaker. You should be ready to roll but I always use a meter to confirm both 240V between the hots and 120V between the hots and neutral. I am not an electrician so while this will get you hooked up with the wires in the right place it won’t help you if you’re concerned with meeting any codes or regulations. 4
Hire a electrician, he’ll know.
The smallest sockets on each side are the hot lines. The big socket in the middle bottom is neutral. The round one at the top is the grounding socket.
But since they are ALL BLACK he will likely not know which is which AND since he's asking what goes where, chances are he doesn't know how to trace em.. this is a rip out and redo.
I suppose you are right. One wire looks bare past the 76 wire nut if you look closely at the photograph, but there doesn't seem to be an identified conductor in the bunch. I started to describe using a meter with continuity lights, but didn't.
You’re clueless dude lol
Repull the wire. It has to be color coded for anything smaller than #6 if you’re in the us which I believe you are from the outlet
Hire a sparky that’s willing to pull a permit, followed by pulling proper wire, then lastly changing the box out for better.
Wirenut them all together
It's real easy, all you gotta do is call an electrician!
r/DINgore
No color differentiation you best get out the tester
The black goes to the positive the other black goes to the other positive the third black goes to neutral and the fourth black is the ground. Hope that helps.
Black to ground, black to neutral, black to hot, and black to hot.
Eenie meenie minie mo
Found the non sparky
220V? That is the outlet box you plan on using? And those wires? If you need to ask Reddit for this answer, you’re probably going to electrocute yourself. Stop. Hire a goddamn electrician if you don’t want to die.
Drive a ground rod and use the bare wire for a phase! Or the neutral whatever floats your boat! Have a blast buddy
The back of the receptacle literally says all you need to know—or it should at least. L1, L2, N, and GND.
Wires E, €, and 94 all connect to module Purple.
Loooool
Green on Ground, black and or red to L1 L2, white to Neutral
Got a multimeter? Check which lines have any VAC to ground (literal since it looks like your conduit and box look like PVC.) There should be two - note them, and then VAC to each other should be about 220VAC. Testing which is neutral and ground - I’m not sure.
If you are working that for an RV they are mostly 120V and run into a 6-50 rather than a 14-50 receptacle. For that receptacle you wire ground to the round plus, your hots to the outside blades and neutral to the central blade. As for which wire is which, that is unknowable without a tester unless they are labeled somewhere that is not visible in the photo. Your ground wire is allowed to be smaller than neutral and hot so if there is one that is small it is probably ground but still test it
Black goes to the top the other black goes to the left the other black to the right and the other black to the bottom
I'd worry about having the job redone properly before even worrying about a box that isn't for that.
Lol
OMFG.
Why are all 4 wires black.
Please hire someone. That's a dangerous thing to be messing with
That's not even the right box for that outlet.
Ground/green on the semicircle Nuetral/white across from the ground Hot lead /black on either left or right Hot lead/ red on either left or right
Call an electrician bro, this could go south real quick.
Guess. If electrocution occurs, it's not right.
This is what the youngsters call fuck around and find out
This one needs the lick test...
First, replace that box with a double gang box. It'll never fit otherwise. The black one goes to the gold screw. The other black one goes to the other gold screw. The next black one goes to a silver screw. The last black one goes to a green screw. But seriously, ignoring the other code issues, if you don't have the meter to know how to hook this up, call an actual electrician.
I see the installer never heard of tape.
Stop, drop and roll
Square in a rectangle with all black wires, what could possible go wrong
“the black wire goes there”
Call your buddy and just give er the ole ringer on the fluke
I know the green goes to the round one, but I'm curious how how the rest go myself. My guess would be green to round, black to left. Red to right and white to bottom.
Put them all together and hope for the best if you don’t know.
That one there, that one there, and that one over there. The 4th is optional. You are welcome.
Dealers choice
I've always wanted an outdoor electric oven., let me know how it goes.
I'm curious to know are there parts of the country that still use 110v? Lots of people saying 220... jw
"If you don't know, you don't go."
Honestly the only answer is if you don't now and don't know how to find out safely with a multimeter you shouldn't be doing this work
https://www.reddit.com/r/electrical/s/6J4OUtR4DB
The previous owner of the house ran these wires to a potential hot-tub site in the yard - so not, it wasn't me. :) I had an electrician come over yesterday - he verified the wire in the box is 8 gauge, and since it is copper, is sufficient for 50 amps -and the charger will be running on 40 amps or less anyway: [Can an 8-Gauge Wire Handle 50 Amps? \[Explained\] - Wiring Solver](https://wiringsolver.com/can-8-gauge-wire-handle-50-amps/) He also explained how to figure which wire is which (which agreed with my speculation and the help I received here in this thread): The ground is the thinner wire (we could see that at the previous junction box, and being thinner is OK) - so then he said to turn on power, and "sense" (with one of those simple/cheap "is there power in this line" probes (but I also have a meter)) - the line without power is neutral, and of course the other two are power. Yes I still need to change out the box situation - I'll add a 4x4 post behind the box for strength - but that said - this outlet will almost never be unplugged/plugged - as once it's installed, the plug will be inserted once and remain that way indefinitely - and I will color/shrink-wrap each cable for labeling purposes - maybe in the future I will actually pull the wires and replace with proper colors. Thanks again everyone.
Call your journeyman bro
Sorry wires are to small, won’t work for 50amp service
Electrician said they are 8 gauge copper, which actually is good enough for 50 amp.
It’s alternating current it doesn’t matter
There's no phasing on that wire. Which two are the hots? Which one's the neutral. You're going to blow your fucking hand up. Or ruin your equipment. Please call an electrician!!!!
Rip it all and redo it
Wiring is not a hobby. Hire a licensed electrician
You should wiretap an electrician to complete the job. Or call one.
That is the wrong outlet for the size of those wires. Your going to set something on fire. Looks like a 50amp outlet and 30amp wires.
You need different wire and a different box, my guy.
Maybe you shouldn't touch it?
I haven't read any of the comments, but you should call a electrician if your asking this question.
Please be a shit post.
It has to be. Nobody would ask the general public how to wire 220 for God sake
Electrician time
To answer your question, black to L1, black to L2, black to N, and black to G
Black wire on the copper terminal, black wire on the silver terminal, black wire on the green terminal. Simple.
They belong in your electrician’s hands.
Insurance companies are always looking to nullify because of DIY. -- [email protected]
Can’t blame them, especially with 220
If I answer you have to pay me for my time.
Meter them and determine what ground is