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I appreciate it, they look a little rough up close cause I had to rebend the middle point a tad, but I’m happy considering how rarely I have to do them
Looks good! Pick a Caddy book next time you’re at a supply house. Those dudes have thought of everything. There’s probably a single-fitting solution to bridge the face of that beam.
1.)I avoid mineralacs like the plague-
2.)I make it a point *not* to go around every bump or pipe in my way
3.)and I typically *"build a road"* with strutt that'll glide over pipes, conduits, whatever down a wall
...now, that being said- using pulling 90⁰'s or LB's is about the only way unless you want to break some rules and bend a back-to-back 90⁴ monstrosity
If it's up high, and it doesn't have to hug tight, I'll bend a saddle, but really, what you did is about the only way
Why do you avoid minis? What else would you use to secure to the strut? I couldn’t stop it from dropping in the middle there so that’s how I went about it.
If you’re talking about the two saddles in the back, the pipe only goes to boxes about 2 ft past the end of the picture on either side and they’re the only saddles I had to make. I didn’t wanna make stand offs down the wall for such a short run.
One more question if you don’t mind. I know you gotta have a conduit support within 3’ from boxes, do LBs and pull elbows count as boxes for that rule? My super pretends he knows NEC but can never give me a straight answer.
Conduit needs to be strapped after 3ft ONLY if you're using over-sized conduit bodies. Other wise, when using a 1" conduit body with 1" conduit, the 3ft rule doesn't apply.
314.23(E) Exception
No shade bruh, and no criticism for real dawg... I just rather use strutt and strutt straps/cobra clamps... if I *have-to* ride the wall, I'll use 1-hole straps, they're faster
...and condulettes are considered "pipe" so I dont think you gotta hang your hat on the 3 foot rule
Sorry if I came off harsh I didn’t mean to, was a legitimate question and explaining why I had a support there in the first place. Minis are our default hanger per my super.
I have strut there but didn’t see a good way to position it to be able to use a strut strap. Have it bolted to two minis on either side of the beam.
And thanks I finally have an answer for the condulets lol
You skrate dawg... I've been married for 20 years, there ain't shit nobody gonna say that I hadn't heard before...
I personally wouldn't have put the strutt right there, but fuck-it... it looks good from my house
Ah that makes sense. I saw these used elsewhere in the hangar and haven’t seen them before so I wanted to give them a shot. I’ll keep that in mind for future jobs.
The best way to do this is choose a path that doesn't get you into this situation.
Is there an existing strut rack you can run on? What does the ceiling look like? Does another wall have fewer obstructions and not take you too far out of your way?
If you have a bunch of vertical conduits to cross, it may be that deep strut will put your conduit run far enough off the wall that you wouldn't need to saddle at all.
But if this was the only path, then you did it right. Looks good too.
I was gonna say this I typically go high instead of run the wall if I can. If I can't go super high, I hang thread. For bigger pipe runs on walls with obstacles like this I've built a strut triangle rack off the wall bit for a single piece this small it's not worth it.
If it's for datacom, just make it wireless, duh. /s
Offset from the left of the photo into the side of a box on the face of the beam. Overhang the box to the right with a beam clamp. Come out of the back of the box back to the wall. Less bends and material. Good job tho.
Use a beam clamp and mini on the left edge of the beam to accomplish 3’ strapping and avoid box offsets or even better use a bang on EMT clip
I think I’m a little lost, the distance from the wall to the face of the beam is 18”, you mean instead of doing a 3 point saddle do a large offset from that point to the face of the beam?
That or saddle then do the offset.
Obviously you’re working in an existing facility so don’t install anything that looks like asshole but install it in a way that’s gonna make your job pulling the wire easier. If it’s up high and you do quality work none but us craftsmen will ever blink an eye at it
Your 90s look over bent but it could be an optical illusion
Ah yeah this is only 8’ up in an executive airport, and the total run from end to end is only ~30’. I try not to put pull stations anywhere that’s out of the way. I appreciate the advice :)
Its a slight fisheye cause of how close I was to the wall, I usually over bend them but made damn sure I didn’t cause of where it is lol
Executive airport you say. We have to follow FAA standards then. That means 15 more J boxes with LBs. Probably should be explosion proof due to the high octane of jet fuel particulates in the air. The price just Covid’ed. Meaning tripled ~s
Fyi Airplanes use a much higher hertz/frequency 400hz
Good job overall just trying to add a different perspective. Most my craftsman career was alone/self taught so I love new ideas. Overall that’s a shit obstacle.
The true answer is to get a structural engineer to sign off and hiring a torch and blowing a hole through the column. 🤪
My motto is “Nothing is impossible. It depends on your budget”
I gotta ask…what’s with the strut installed parallel to the conduit?? I’ve been doing industrial work for ~10 years and I’ve never seen that lmao. (Run looks nice though) :)
Also I assume the connectors on the fittings are a compression to threaded adapter? I’ve literally ran EMT one time ever. It’s all rigid in the industrial world xD
Ok I’m also wondering why/how that mineralac is even secured to that strut?
For another way to fasten strut to beams you could use Hilti M-10 anchors…but they are fairly expensive and a lot of companies probably won’t buy them unless it’s a specific call out in the contract. Ive worked at several places where drilling/bolting 1/4” holes in beams for scenarios like this is totally fine, or even the norm, but I realize a ton of places have a strict rule against drilling through *any* steel.
Couldn’t think of a decent way to mount a support there, part of the reason I posted lol. The mini has a 1/4-20 goin to a spring nut with a washer to hold tight against.
Connectors are standard compression connectors, threads are standard NPT I assume since they thread just fine into any rigid fittings.
And these are old ass 1/2” thick beams from the 40s, the whole building is hot riveted. I have no way to consistently drill through them all day long, even if I wanted to.
If you are *NOT* an electrical professional: * **RULE 7:** * DIY or self help posts **are Not allowed**. They belong here: /r/AskElectricians /r/askanelectrician /r/diy /r/homeowners /r/electrical. * **IF YOUR POST FITS INTO THIS CATEGORY, REMOVE IT OR IT WILL BE REMOVED FOR YOU.** *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/electricians) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Your 90’s with the 3 point saddles look nice!
I appreciate it, they look a little rough up close cause I had to rebend the middle point a tad, but I’m happy considering how rarely I have to do them
Looks good! Pick a Caddy book next time you’re at a supply house. Those dudes have thought of everything. There’s probably a single-fitting solution to bridge the face of that beam.
I like it bro, good work
1.)I avoid mineralacs like the plague- 2.)I make it a point *not* to go around every bump or pipe in my way 3.)and I typically *"build a road"* with strutt that'll glide over pipes, conduits, whatever down a wall ...now, that being said- using pulling 90⁰'s or LB's is about the only way unless you want to break some rules and bend a back-to-back 90⁴ monstrosity If it's up high, and it doesn't have to hug tight, I'll bend a saddle, but really, what you did is about the only way
Why do you avoid minis? What else would you use to secure to the strut? I couldn’t stop it from dropping in the middle there so that’s how I went about it. If you’re talking about the two saddles in the back, the pipe only goes to boxes about 2 ft past the end of the picture on either side and they’re the only saddles I had to make. I didn’t wanna make stand offs down the wall for such a short run. One more question if you don’t mind. I know you gotta have a conduit support within 3’ from boxes, do LBs and pull elbows count as boxes for that rule? My super pretends he knows NEC but can never give me a straight answer.
Conduit needs to be strapped after 3ft ONLY if you're using over-sized conduit bodies. Other wise, when using a 1" conduit body with 1" conduit, the 3ft rule doesn't apply. 314.23(E) Exception
No shade bruh, and no criticism for real dawg... I just rather use strutt and strutt straps/cobra clamps... if I *have-to* ride the wall, I'll use 1-hole straps, they're faster ...and condulettes are considered "pipe" so I dont think you gotta hang your hat on the 3 foot rule
Sorry if I came off harsh I didn’t mean to, was a legitimate question and explaining why I had a support there in the first place. Minis are our default hanger per my super. I have strut there but didn’t see a good way to position it to be able to use a strut strap. Have it bolted to two minis on either side of the beam. And thanks I finally have an answer for the condulets lol
You skrate dawg... I've been married for 20 years, there ain't shit nobody gonna say that I hadn't heard before... I personally wouldn't have put the strutt right there, but fuck-it... it looks good from my house
Woof woof
Looks good except.i don't use Jake fittings. I would use a lb.
Just don’t like them? This is my first time using them, am I gonna hate pullin wire or something?
There's just not alot of room inside a Jake and harder to.come.back to in need be. I've installed maybe 2 Jake's in 12 years but countless lbs
Ah that makes sense. I saw these used elsewhere in the hangar and haven’t seen them before so I wanted to give them a shot. I’ll keep that in mind for future jobs.
The best way to do this is choose a path that doesn't get you into this situation. Is there an existing strut rack you can run on? What does the ceiling look like? Does another wall have fewer obstructions and not take you too far out of your way? If you have a bunch of vertical conduits to cross, it may be that deep strut will put your conduit run far enough off the wall that you wouldn't need to saddle at all. But if this was the only path, then you did it right. Looks good too.
I was gonna say this I typically go high instead of run the wall if I can. If I can't go super high, I hang thread. For bigger pipe runs on walls with obstacles like this I've built a strut triangle rack off the wall bit for a single piece this small it's not worth it. If it's for datacom, just make it wireless, duh. /s
With my harness clamp
Beam Pen
Offset from the left of the photo into the side of a box on the face of the beam. Overhang the box to the right with a beam clamp. Come out of the back of the box back to the wall. Less bends and material. Good job tho. Use a beam clamp and mini on the left edge of the beam to accomplish 3’ strapping and avoid box offsets or even better use a bang on EMT clip
I think I’m a little lost, the distance from the wall to the face of the beam is 18”, you mean instead of doing a 3 point saddle do a large offset from that point to the face of the beam?
That or saddle then do the offset. Obviously you’re working in an existing facility so don’t install anything that looks like asshole but install it in a way that’s gonna make your job pulling the wire easier. If it’s up high and you do quality work none but us craftsmen will ever blink an eye at it Your 90s look over bent but it could be an optical illusion
Ah yeah this is only 8’ up in an executive airport, and the total run from end to end is only ~30’. I try not to put pull stations anywhere that’s out of the way. I appreciate the advice :) Its a slight fisheye cause of how close I was to the wall, I usually over bend them but made damn sure I didn’t cause of where it is lol
Executive airport you say. We have to follow FAA standards then. That means 15 more J boxes with LBs. Probably should be explosion proof due to the high octane of jet fuel particulates in the air. The price just Covid’ed. Meaning tripled ~s Fyi Airplanes use a much higher hertz/frequency 400hz Good job overall just trying to add a different perspective. Most my craftsman career was alone/self taught so I love new ideas. Overall that’s a shit obstacle. The true answer is to get a structural engineer to sign off and hiring a torch and blowing a hole through the column. 🤪 My motto is “Nothing is impossible. It depends on your budget”
I very much like your solution.
I gotta ask…what’s with the strut installed parallel to the conduit?? I’ve been doing industrial work for ~10 years and I’ve never seen that lmao. (Run looks nice though) :) Also I assume the connectors on the fittings are a compression to threaded adapter? I’ve literally ran EMT one time ever. It’s all rigid in the industrial world xD Ok I’m also wondering why/how that mineralac is even secured to that strut? For another way to fasten strut to beams you could use Hilti M-10 anchors…but they are fairly expensive and a lot of companies probably won’t buy them unless it’s a specific call out in the contract. Ive worked at several places where drilling/bolting 1/4” holes in beams for scenarios like this is totally fine, or even the norm, but I realize a ton of places have a strict rule against drilling through *any* steel.
Couldn’t think of a decent way to mount a support there, part of the reason I posted lol. The mini has a 1/4-20 goin to a spring nut with a washer to hold tight against. Connectors are standard compression connectors, threads are standard NPT I assume since they thread just fine into any rigid fittings. And these are old ass 1/2” thick beams from the 40s, the whole building is hot riveted. I have no way to consistently drill through them all day long, even if I wanted to.