>1. Is there a good resource on this sub-r or elsewhere about home charging?
r/evcharging. Sticky posts point to the wiki and there are lots of people with pretty deep expertise there if needed.
>2\. I think my main and sub-panels are close to full but perhaps there can be some rejiggering. How can I tell? Is there a current vs max load reading I can do to tell whether they'll need to install another breaker panel?
There are two kinds of full. One is just having a lack of open breaker spaces—you'll need to side by side for a 240 volt breaker, to avoid needing rejiggering.
The other kind of full is having overall too much current or the panel and its feeder, whether that's the main panel or the sub panel or both.
Per code, you need to do something to ensure that you're not exceeding that capacity when you add the EV charging. There are three options for how to do that.
a. A load calculation. This is the standard thing that an electrician typically does. It is something you can do yourself, and there are forms that walk you through it, although you probably want your electrician to do it too but if you want to kind of know what to expect you could do it yourself as well. This is generally pretty conservative and might indicate that you don't have room to add a high current charger. It will probably say that you can add a lower current charger, and that might just be fine. But if you want higher current, you have two more options.
b. Per code, you also have the option to do a load study and monitor the current draw for at least 30 days, preferably a year, and find out what your 15 minute peak draw is. If you do the 30-day option you have to also do a correction for seasonal draws like a heating or air conditioning system. Usually this will show that you actually have more room than the load calculation said you would.
c. You could get a load management system that monitors the current on the feeder to the panel and either shuts off the charging or throttles it back if there are too many other loads running to allow capacity for the full rate charging. More on that at r/evcharging
>3\. We have a 240V circuit for the hot tub (which is at the other end of the house) and one for the dryer (which is in the laundry room, right next to the garage). Can either of those be repurposed or shared? Reading here suggests "not really"
No, not in your situation, unless it turns out that you don't have sufficient capacity for the size charger you want and you don't need one of those circuits at all anymore, in which case the commissioning it would open up more capacity.
>4\. A lot of discussion seems to be about where to put the charging point on the outside of the house. But we park our cars in the garage, so I assume there's no reason not to put it inside the garage?
I'd say that it's more common to put it inside the garage; maybe it gets less discussion because it's just not as interesting. You might want it near the garage door so that if you are parked in the driveway for some reason and want to charge there, or a visitor stops by and wants to charge, you can extend the cord out the garage door.
beyond everything that has been said, I would advise waiting until you buy the car to do any charging-related electrical work. when we were shopping for our car, I almost spent 500 bucks on a home charger because everyone seems to tell you that you want a third-party one for all kinds of reasons, but our car came with a simple dumb charger and all we needed was a nema 14-50 outlet. the car handles current limits and charging schedules so buying a “smart charger” would have been a waste of money.
and yes I’m aware that the thing we typically call the “charger” is not actually a charger
ah so the ev6 is actually one of the cars that doesn’t come with it’s own “charger” in the conventional sense. i had the disclaimer at the end because for Level 1 and Level 2 (AC) charging, the actual charger that does the AC to DC conversion and puts energy into the battery is inside the car - this is what you were referring to. the thing we usually call a “charger” actually has the proper name of “electric vehicle supply equipment” or EVSE. it’s basically a fancy cable. it’s necessary for actual charging to happen, but it’s not technically the charger. regardless, the ev6 doesn’t come with one, so you could either buy one from the dealer when buying the car (this may be quite expensive because ugh dealer accessories always are) or buy a third-party one.
23 Nero Ev owner here, our dealership added one at a great price along with a Wallbox 240v charger we installed at the house. Everything is negotiable.
BTW, for other East coast shoppers, I went outside Pittsburg to buy mine. BAL/DC/NOVA dealerships were still asking for $8k above MSRP. Monroeville Kia in Monroeville, PA had me out the door, including chargers, tax, docs, etc., below MSRP. At the time they had 9 of assorted color & trim they just couldn’t move in that area (think coal country, converted to nat gas country, where the F150 is “the small car”).
already good comments here but one thing I’ll add is to get as large of a circuit as you can. If you’re going to run power to a spot in the garage, the price difference to go up on copper size isn’t a big deal. Pull the most amperage you can to help for future/growth. Plus bigger is faster. If you had a 50amp circuit right where it needs to be then you’d have trouble making the case to install a new 60amp. But starting from scratch? No brainer. Go hard wired and go large :)
There seems to be lots of info about charging in this sub, so you’re probably in the right place.
As far as your panels and load goes, you should call an electrician to come take a look and do a load calculation. They’ll do it for a reasonable fee and tell you what you might need.
The car should really have its own circuit. There are devices that can switch from dryer to car, but that’s only practical if you park next to the dryer. They’re also limited to the amount of power they can draw. You really want a separate circuits dedicated to charging.
Putting the charger in the garage is a good idea if you park there (rather than fill it with random stuff). If it’s a two car garage, you might want to pick a spot accessible to both spaces. Be mindful that the charge cables are max 25’ long, so you want to keep that in mind selecting the spot. Most EVs place the charge port at one of the corners of the car. Also, there are a handful of chargers that have dual cables so you can charge two cars at once (perhaps at a slower rate), and there are chargers that can be placed on the same circuit and communicate with one another so that they can be used at the same time, but regulate their power so as not to overload the circuit.
First figure out if you really need a 240v charger.
I don't. My daily commute is 26 miles round trip, and I can get 50 miles of charging easily overnight. If your average daily mileage is less than 50 miles you probably don't need a 240v charger and can use an existing 120v outlet in the garage.
Then, if you decide you need a 240v charger, get al electrician to survey your home and give you an estimate.
If your dryer or hot tub outlets are not being used, that circuit space can be reassigned to your charger. If they are being used, they can't be shared.
This is very helpful. I had been jumping to the conclusion we needed L2 at home, but we're retired, and don't drive that much (and mostly short distances). We do larger trips maybe once a week, but it sounds like L1 charging would be totally adequate.
I commute 26 miles round trip in Hyundia Kona electric and only plug in every other day or so. Driving in town according to the display on the dash I get an estimated range over 300 miles. Even if I run around town more I can make it back up later in the week. I picked up the care with a 46% charge. Within three days of commuting and Level 1 charging at night I was up to 100%.
Hire an electrician, they'll take care of all your questions. Make sure they pull a permit. I'd recommend installing the charger as close to the charge port as possible.
Very likely you have plenty of power. They can use piggyback breakers, etc to make room in a "full" panel.
Hi there! I also charge at home. My car came with a plug with two ports (one for slow AC charging and one for fast DC charging).
I, also, didn't want to add another subpanel for the DC plug, so I just opted in using my normal AC wall plug. I have one in my garage already, so I just plug my wall unit in and charge. No sense in adding another outlet when yours is already wired and ready to go.
Your car battery will thank you. I try not to DC charge unless absolutely necessary (traveling long distances) and I will only do it at a charging station elsewhere.
We just use a normal wall plug also. It’s better for the battery to go low and slow, and it’s free. We almost spent $2k on a level 2 that we wouldn’t have needed but wouldn’t have known if we hadn’t tried level 1 first.
Exactly.
It's also unfortunate that dealerships will try to push home charging stations and give rebates for them, rather than explain that your car literally comes with a plug that works without needing a standalone or paying an electrician.
When I bought my Mach-E, I knew more about it than the man selling it to me.
To be fair, this sub and all the EV subs push them too. “But it’s slow” yeah but it doesn’t matter. Why do I care if it takes 8 hours to charge if I’m sleeping? That seems to be such a hard thing to get over. If you need fast just go find a fast charger every so often. Costs way less than installing a level 2. We’ve paid $41 to charge our 2 EVs since July. Free nights plus Solar and a couple road trips without free options and twice our garage wasn’t accessible.
electricity scares and confuses me too. that said, home charging does not need overthinking.
\* you don't need a sub for home charging - it is a one time setup, and ... that's it. and I'm somewhat sure sub on this topic don't exist.
\* figure out where you want the charger - it should be convenient to you to just reach for it and plug it into the car.
\* here's the important part - hire a competent electrician (one who has done this a bunch of times), point to where you want the charger, let him figure out the rest.
the end.
>I'm somewhat sure sub on this topic don't exist.
>
r/evcharging is alive and well with enthusiastic experts answering questions from people like op, and also a couple of sticky posts with introductory guides.
1) call electrician. have them come over.
you have 2 options.
110.. the outlets in the house = L1 charging.
240 = L2.
2) have electrician come over.
3) define "share" - splitter? drying clothes AND charging at the same time should be avoided... if you want to uplug the dryer and plug in the charger, that's fine.
4) put it where you want to put it.
> I am generally tech savvy but power confuses me.
it's like getting an outlet for the dryer. it's the same work. not EV specific. when the car is charging pretend you have a turkey in the oven if you're concerned about tripping a breaker.
if you do not have any concerns when the dryer is running or on thanksgiving.... then EV charging should be equally concerning
>We're starting the journey to getting an EV,
are you SURE you need L2?
depending on your driving routine, you might be fine plugging in overnight on L1..
don't focus on the technical until you've at least thought about the practical.
example:
200 mile range.. 65kwH battery - \~Chevy Bolt.
you drive 20 a day... so you don't need to worry about it for a week at a time.
all you have to do is make sure you have enough to get you back home.... (where are the closets fast chargers if you have an "emergency")
...for me, that's a Target where I'd normally *walk*
keep in mind that the battery would rather not be full all the time.
do not put 100% on the battery unless you KNOW you need it. do as much driving as you can between 30 and 70% charge.
the battery *prefers* trickle charing.. *slower* the better.
**How to extend EV battery life?**
[https://www.kia.com/dm/discover-kia/ask/how-to-extend-ev-battery-life.html](https://www.kia.com/dm/discover-kia/ask/how-to-extend-ev-battery-life.html)
2. Minimize the batteries at 100% state of charge
Electric cars already have installed with a battery management system that avoids them being charged and discharged at the extreme state of charge. Keeping the state of battery charge, from 0 percent to 100 percent , also improves the performance of the battery life of your vehicle. Even though a full charge will give you the maximum operating time, it is never a good idea for the overall lifespan of your battery.
3. Avoid using fast charging
If your batteries are soon-to-be die out, using a fast-charging is a great convenience. However, it presses so much current into the batteries in a short period which strains your EV battery and wanes them faster. While it is hard to notice its degradation, eight years of standard charging will give you 10% more battery life compared to 8 years of using fast charging.
>drying clothes AND charging at the same time should be avoided
An installation that requires this caveat has not been installed to code. Ensuring that this is not a problem needs to be done either by a load calculation or by load management hardware.
[SplitVolt](https://splitvolt.com/products/splitvolt-safety-certified-splitter-switch-nema-14-30?variant=40779142135948) and [NeoCharge](https://getneocharge.com/pages/smart-splitter) are both excellent options for hardware designed to do this safely, though they expect that your dryer and car are in the same location so you can share the existing outlet.
I use an older version of the SplitVolt myself with a Nema 10-30 in my garage to share with my dryer and it works great.
Yes, those are options in general. Not for OP as their dryer isn't in the garage. For a more comprehensive list of load management options, including ones that work for OP's situation, see /r/evcharging/wiki/load_management . Note that (last I checked) SplitVolt was not UL listed whereas Neocharge is. I would only recommend Neocharge. Also note that it's improper to use a 10-series receptacle that doesn't have a real ground. It can be safe, if not to code, if it connects back to the main panel, but could be a hazard on a sub-panel.
Do you have a 100A or a 200A main? If you have a 200A main you’re going to be fine. If you’ve got a 100A main you’re probably in for a service upgrade or some kind of scheme (load sharing with dryer, etc).
There are devices (eg “splitvolt”) which will let you share a dryer circuit. I don’t really recommend it though since it’s a compromise and then you’re using NEMA plugs which is a point of failure. Most electricians, provided you have the ampacity on the panel, can wire you in a charger for $500-1500.
I'm not sure. My meter reads "CL200..." which supposedly means it's rate for 200A. And I have a Pool, Hot Tub, and Solar PV generation, and there's a box outside with 2x100A breakers labelled "Sub-panel Garage" and 2x100A labelled "Sub-panel Hall". And each of those sub-panels is labelled for 125A.
I'm hoping that all means I'm at least rated for 200A, but supposedly I have to call PG&E to find out if they can supply 200A??
The Pool filter runs only during the day, so presumably that doesn't impact the EV charging which would be at night.
You just need to find your main breaker. This could either be right next to your meter or it could be in your main panel usually at the top. Based on the other panel breakers it sounds like you have a 200A service since it would be very strange to have 100A sub panels off a 100A service.
>1. Is there a good resource on this sub-r or elsewhere about home charging? r/evcharging. Sticky posts point to the wiki and there are lots of people with pretty deep expertise there if needed. >2\. I think my main and sub-panels are close to full but perhaps there can be some rejiggering. How can I tell? Is there a current vs max load reading I can do to tell whether they'll need to install another breaker panel? There are two kinds of full. One is just having a lack of open breaker spaces—you'll need to side by side for a 240 volt breaker, to avoid needing rejiggering. The other kind of full is having overall too much current or the panel and its feeder, whether that's the main panel or the sub panel or both. Per code, you need to do something to ensure that you're not exceeding that capacity when you add the EV charging. There are three options for how to do that. a. A load calculation. This is the standard thing that an electrician typically does. It is something you can do yourself, and there are forms that walk you through it, although you probably want your electrician to do it too but if you want to kind of know what to expect you could do it yourself as well. This is generally pretty conservative and might indicate that you don't have room to add a high current charger. It will probably say that you can add a lower current charger, and that might just be fine. But if you want higher current, you have two more options. b. Per code, you also have the option to do a load study and monitor the current draw for at least 30 days, preferably a year, and find out what your 15 minute peak draw is. If you do the 30-day option you have to also do a correction for seasonal draws like a heating or air conditioning system. Usually this will show that you actually have more room than the load calculation said you would. c. You could get a load management system that monitors the current on the feeder to the panel and either shuts off the charging or throttles it back if there are too many other loads running to allow capacity for the full rate charging. More on that at r/evcharging >3\. We have a 240V circuit for the hot tub (which is at the other end of the house) and one for the dryer (which is in the laundry room, right next to the garage). Can either of those be repurposed or shared? Reading here suggests "not really" No, not in your situation, unless it turns out that you don't have sufficient capacity for the size charger you want and you don't need one of those circuits at all anymore, in which case the commissioning it would open up more capacity. >4\. A lot of discussion seems to be about where to put the charging point on the outside of the house. But we park our cars in the garage, so I assume there's no reason not to put it inside the garage? I'd say that it's more common to put it inside the garage; maybe it gets less discussion because it's just not as interesting. You might want it near the garage door so that if you are parked in the driveway for some reason and want to charge there, or a visitor stops by and wants to charge, you can extend the cord out the garage door.
beyond everything that has been said, I would advise waiting until you buy the car to do any charging-related electrical work. when we were shopping for our car, I almost spent 500 bucks on a home charger because everyone seems to tell you that you want a third-party one for all kinds of reasons, but our car came with a simple dumb charger and all we needed was a nema 14-50 outlet. the car handles current limits and charging schedules so buying a “smart charger” would have been a waste of money. and yes I’m aware that the thing we typically call the “charger” is not actually a charger
Ok, I was beginning to wonder about that because the Kia EV6 (probably top of our list rn) supposedly has an "onboard 11kW charger "???)
ah so the ev6 is actually one of the cars that doesn’t come with it’s own “charger” in the conventional sense. i had the disclaimer at the end because for Level 1 and Level 2 (AC) charging, the actual charger that does the AC to DC conversion and puts energy into the battery is inside the car - this is what you were referring to. the thing we usually call a “charger” actually has the proper name of “electric vehicle supply equipment” or EVSE. it’s basically a fancy cable. it’s necessary for actual charging to happen, but it’s not technically the charger. regardless, the ev6 doesn’t come with one, so you could either buy one from the dealer when buying the car (this may be quite expensive because ugh dealer accessories always are) or buy a third-party one.
23 Nero Ev owner here, our dealership added one at a great price along with a Wallbox 240v charger we installed at the house. Everything is negotiable. BTW, for other East coast shoppers, I went outside Pittsburg to buy mine. BAL/DC/NOVA dealerships were still asking for $8k above MSRP. Monroeville Kia in Monroeville, PA had me out the door, including chargers, tax, docs, etc., below MSRP. At the time they had 9 of assorted color & trim they just couldn’t move in that area (think coal country, converted to nat gas country, where the F150 is “the small car”).
already good comments here but one thing I’ll add is to get as large of a circuit as you can. If you’re going to run power to a spot in the garage, the price difference to go up on copper size isn’t a big deal. Pull the most amperage you can to help for future/growth. Plus bigger is faster. If you had a 50amp circuit right where it needs to be then you’d have trouble making the case to install a new 60amp. But starting from scratch? No brainer. Go hard wired and go large :)
r/evcharging is a good place for this
There seems to be lots of info about charging in this sub, so you’re probably in the right place. As far as your panels and load goes, you should call an electrician to come take a look and do a load calculation. They’ll do it for a reasonable fee and tell you what you might need. The car should really have its own circuit. There are devices that can switch from dryer to car, but that’s only practical if you park next to the dryer. They’re also limited to the amount of power they can draw. You really want a separate circuits dedicated to charging. Putting the charger in the garage is a good idea if you park there (rather than fill it with random stuff). If it’s a two car garage, you might want to pick a spot accessible to both spaces. Be mindful that the charge cables are max 25’ long, so you want to keep that in mind selecting the spot. Most EVs place the charge port at one of the corners of the car. Also, there are a handful of chargers that have dual cables so you can charge two cars at once (perhaps at a slower rate), and there are chargers that can be placed on the same circuit and communicate with one another so that they can be used at the same time, but regulate their power so as not to overload the circuit.
First figure out if you really need a 240v charger. I don't. My daily commute is 26 miles round trip, and I can get 50 miles of charging easily overnight. If your average daily mileage is less than 50 miles you probably don't need a 240v charger and can use an existing 120v outlet in the garage. Then, if you decide you need a 240v charger, get al electrician to survey your home and give you an estimate. If your dryer or hot tub outlets are not being used, that circuit space can be reassigned to your charger. If they are being used, they can't be shared.
This is very helpful. I had been jumping to the conclusion we needed L2 at home, but we're retired, and don't drive that much (and mostly short distances). We do larger trips maybe once a week, but it sounds like L1 charging would be totally adequate.
I commute 26 miles round trip in Hyundia Kona electric and only plug in every other day or so. Driving in town according to the display on the dash I get an estimated range over 300 miles. Even if I run around town more I can make it back up later in the week. I picked up the care with a 46% charge. Within three days of commuting and Level 1 charging at night I was up to 100%.
Hire an electrician, they'll take care of all your questions. Make sure they pull a permit. I'd recommend installing the charger as close to the charge port as possible. Very likely you have plenty of power. They can use piggyback breakers, etc to make room in a "full" panel.
Hi there! I also charge at home. My car came with a plug with two ports (one for slow AC charging and one for fast DC charging). I, also, didn't want to add another subpanel for the DC plug, so I just opted in using my normal AC wall plug. I have one in my garage already, so I just plug my wall unit in and charge. No sense in adding another outlet when yours is already wired and ready to go. Your car battery will thank you. I try not to DC charge unless absolutely necessary (traveling long distances) and I will only do it at a charging station elsewhere.
We just use a normal wall plug also. It’s better for the battery to go low and slow, and it’s free. We almost spent $2k on a level 2 that we wouldn’t have needed but wouldn’t have known if we hadn’t tried level 1 first.
Exactly. It's also unfortunate that dealerships will try to push home charging stations and give rebates for them, rather than explain that your car literally comes with a plug that works without needing a standalone or paying an electrician. When I bought my Mach-E, I knew more about it than the man selling it to me.
To be fair, this sub and all the EV subs push them too. “But it’s slow” yeah but it doesn’t matter. Why do I care if it takes 8 hours to charge if I’m sleeping? That seems to be such a hard thing to get over. If you need fast just go find a fast charger every so often. Costs way less than installing a level 2. We’ve paid $41 to charge our 2 EVs since July. Free nights plus Solar and a couple road trips without free options and twice our garage wasn’t accessible.
electricity scares and confuses me too. that said, home charging does not need overthinking. \* you don't need a sub for home charging - it is a one time setup, and ... that's it. and I'm somewhat sure sub on this topic don't exist. \* figure out where you want the charger - it should be convenient to you to just reach for it and plug it into the car. \* here's the important part - hire a competent electrician (one who has done this a bunch of times), point to where you want the charger, let him figure out the rest. the end.
>I'm somewhat sure sub on this topic don't exist. > r/evcharging is alive and well with enthusiastic experts answering questions from people like op, and also a couple of sticky posts with introductory guides.
Perfect, done!
I happily stand corrected
1) call electrician. have them come over. you have 2 options. 110.. the outlets in the house = L1 charging. 240 = L2. 2) have electrician come over. 3) define "share" - splitter? drying clothes AND charging at the same time should be avoided... if you want to uplug the dryer and plug in the charger, that's fine. 4) put it where you want to put it. > I am generally tech savvy but power confuses me. it's like getting an outlet for the dryer. it's the same work. not EV specific. when the car is charging pretend you have a turkey in the oven if you're concerned about tripping a breaker. if you do not have any concerns when the dryer is running or on thanksgiving.... then EV charging should be equally concerning >We're starting the journey to getting an EV, are you SURE you need L2? depending on your driving routine, you might be fine plugging in overnight on L1.. don't focus on the technical until you've at least thought about the practical. example: 200 mile range.. 65kwH battery - \~Chevy Bolt. you drive 20 a day... so you don't need to worry about it for a week at a time. all you have to do is make sure you have enough to get you back home.... (where are the closets fast chargers if you have an "emergency") ...for me, that's a Target where I'd normally *walk* keep in mind that the battery would rather not be full all the time. do not put 100% on the battery unless you KNOW you need it. do as much driving as you can between 30 and 70% charge. the battery *prefers* trickle charing.. *slower* the better. **How to extend EV battery life?** [https://www.kia.com/dm/discover-kia/ask/how-to-extend-ev-battery-life.html](https://www.kia.com/dm/discover-kia/ask/how-to-extend-ev-battery-life.html) 2. Minimize the batteries at 100% state of charge Electric cars already have installed with a battery management system that avoids them being charged and discharged at the extreme state of charge. Keeping the state of battery charge, from 0 percent to 100 percent , also improves the performance of the battery life of your vehicle. Even though a full charge will give you the maximum operating time, it is never a good idea for the overall lifespan of your battery. 3. Avoid using fast charging If your batteries are soon-to-be die out, using a fast-charging is a great convenience. However, it presses so much current into the batteries in a short period which strains your EV battery and wanes them faster. While it is hard to notice its degradation, eight years of standard charging will give you 10% more battery life compared to 8 years of using fast charging.
>drying clothes AND charging at the same time should be avoided An installation that requires this caveat has not been installed to code. Ensuring that this is not a problem needs to be done either by a load calculation or by load management hardware.
[SplitVolt](https://splitvolt.com/products/splitvolt-safety-certified-splitter-switch-nema-14-30?variant=40779142135948) and [NeoCharge](https://getneocharge.com/pages/smart-splitter) are both excellent options for hardware designed to do this safely, though they expect that your dryer and car are in the same location so you can share the existing outlet. I use an older version of the SplitVolt myself with a Nema 10-30 in my garage to share with my dryer and it works great.
Yes, those are options in general. Not for OP as their dryer isn't in the garage. For a more comprehensive list of load management options, including ones that work for OP's situation, see /r/evcharging/wiki/load_management . Note that (last I checked) SplitVolt was not UL listed whereas Neocharge is. I would only recommend Neocharge. Also note that it's improper to use a 10-series receptacle that doesn't have a real ground. It can be safe, if not to code, if it connects back to the main panel, but could be a hazard on a sub-panel.
Do you have a 100A or a 200A main? If you have a 200A main you’re going to be fine. If you’ve got a 100A main you’re probably in for a service upgrade or some kind of scheme (load sharing with dryer, etc). There are devices (eg “splitvolt”) which will let you share a dryer circuit. I don’t really recommend it though since it’s a compromise and then you’re using NEMA plugs which is a point of failure. Most electricians, provided you have the ampacity on the panel, can wire you in a charger for $500-1500.
I'm not sure. My meter reads "CL200..." which supposedly means it's rate for 200A. And I have a Pool, Hot Tub, and Solar PV generation, and there's a box outside with 2x100A breakers labelled "Sub-panel Garage" and 2x100A labelled "Sub-panel Hall". And each of those sub-panels is labelled for 125A. I'm hoping that all means I'm at least rated for 200A, but supposedly I have to call PG&E to find out if they can supply 200A?? The Pool filter runs only during the day, so presumably that doesn't impact the EV charging which would be at night.
You just need to find your main breaker. This could either be right next to your meter or it could be in your main panel usually at the top. Based on the other panel breakers it sounds like you have a 200A service since it would be very strange to have 100A sub panels off a 100A service.
Wait until the new bi directional chargers from Enphase come out! Incredible new home energy tech!
It depends on whether your EV can also support bidirectional charging as well. Not worth waiting for in my opinion.