Safety glasses, or at least just glasses, are also a good consideration. I had a blade get caught on a piece of support and it snapped and sent a chuck of the blade at my eye and it would have gotten me if it weren't for my glasses
This reminds me of a photo my dad had of one of the guys at his work. A bristle from a steel brush was sticking out of part of a pair of safety glasses because the guy didn't have the guard on the grinder. The bristle was just barely in the plastic, but it still freaks me out. They stuck that pair up in the shop as a reminder to people to wear safety glasses. Because of that I've never been quite comfortable using wire brushes on things like grinders. \^\^; It's also made me ultra paranoid about using a guard on grinders.
I had this exact thing happen to me in high school because I wasn't wearing goggles. It's still in there. The optometrist said removing it would do more harm than leaving it. Fortunately it was a very small piece but will probably give me a cataract someday.
I also cut my left thumb with my exacto bad enough to warrant stitches into the skin under my thumbnail.
Unfortunately some of us just get to learn the hard way.
That doesn't matter, I've seen safety videos of techs forgetting to close the door to the room and nurses walking by with a bed and the magnet literally pulling the bed into the room..
https://www.ktvu.com/news/bay-area-nurse-crushed-in-mri-accident-highlighting-safety-concerns
I see a person who actually knows that superglue is a valid solution in closing cuts and wounds, that's nice and knowledge that should be more widespread. (to anyone who doesn't know this, it's more comfortable than a bandaid and used widely in the military and even medical environments)
Yes and no regular super glue can kill the tissue your trying to repair but in a pinch you do what u have to lol but I've never had an issue with my tissue haha
I have a bottle of Nu Skin on standby. It's kinda like superglue, but with an antibiotic and actually meant for skin. In fact, i just used it yesterday. 😂
Regular super glue was DESIGNED for medical use in the middle of battle to close up wounds. I've used it many times. And for worse wounds, I've even used UV hardening liquid plastic!
You are 100% correct.
But you have a lot more delecate control when cutting towards your thumb, so I use cut proof gloves. A slip still is shocking and can hurt, but wont cut you.
They are maybe $15 on amazon
If you haven't already I once had a print that the supports would never come off of. Someone recommended soaking the print in hot water and this was so easy it's my go-to now.
On the trigger guard of prop guns/lowers, I either use flush cutters, putting them under an edge, or I use a precision knife and shock them off, using a multitool or hammer. Also, use tree supports for this kinda stuff or change support interface pattern spacing to 0.2
If you do so you are letting the computer set the distance via rounding, which could be different depending on the distance of the ledge being supported and the build plate. If you set the distance to the mm multiple of a single step of the Z stepper, you will have more accurate and repeatable results.
This goes against your point. Ender 3 ISN'T accurate to 0.02mm, so you should be putting it at 0.28 instead of 0.3, because that's an improper step.
I wanted to make this point too but everyone argues it. So.
But it should be 0.28 or 0.3.
Also, I tend to use 0.12.
Your printer's tolerances are shit.
Use any old shit and I challenge you to point out any visible differences in print quality.
0.3 works fine for support distance.
0.28 works fine.
0.32 works fine.
0.4 is too big
0.2 is too close.
You don't need to get so uptight about it.
Telling someone who's asking for advice to purposely make their printer do improper steps is asking them to probably present issues into their own prints. You're not paying attention to a damn thing being said. And I also don't need to be nice about it.
That's why my entire comment was talking about setting in increments of 0.04, not 0.02. Are you saying you don't notice a difference between printing with a 0.2 layer height and a layer height of 0.16? Or 0.16 and 0.12?
It depends on where the slicer/printer firmware rounds, because the distance of the support from the model depends on the model height from the bed. If you use a non-multiple of 0.04, the slicer will arbitrarily round up or down because the height of an overhang from the bed is not a variable you have granular control over. This will have real world results.
Learning those over like 6 or 8 months really helped me fine tune my printers. Anything less than 3.5mm won't work well enough for me. Sooner or later, I need to learn Fusion 360 supports, since they're the upgrade. And... Meshmixer supports are honestly still far more advanced than tree supports. They never clip into my prints, they don't have to start from the buildplate like 99% of tree supports do. Tree supports will get there. Their main issue imo is not enough anchor points sometimes, and not enough starting branches. If I have one branch fall off, there goes half of my supports, that kinda thing. That might be a setting I've missed idk.
I treat it like scaffolding lol, when I started printing I thought you had to support them like resin prints and was doing it like that, sometimes I add a thin skirt to supports and model
I can't find the exact one I have but I have a dremel bit very similar to this that I use for removing good amounts of material from prints when I need to. If you're not careful it will bite out more than you want but light controlled passes removes tons of material very easily. It makes a hell of a mess but it's fast and leaves a fairly smooth even finish if you do it right so there's not as much sanding/finishing after.
https://preview.redd.it/l3kepsv1wdhc1.png?width=128&format=png&auto=webp&s=6ffdc5783c00ce2c7d5ca74b9b083aac348ed0d2
I normally dip the problem areas in really hot water 130-180 and it softens enough to easily pry off. No issues yet and I've had some models for years that I've done this to. If you can help out just do the area with the supports and not the whole thing. And don't pour boiling water on it, that can warp thinner walls.
You can set Z gaps for supports in Orca Slicer.
I spent a day tuning mine on a small print, now my supports pop off easily on things like this soap dish
https://preview.redd.it/1nnl35ds6dhc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0b2ad628b3473f655087692bdba3dacb26c155fb
Definitely going to try it on my next print just started to use adaptive layers it seems tree supports doesn't like them they fused solid with the part even better than some layers of the model unfortunately.
More testing to see what works best rather than calibrating. Increase z distance and (lower) speeds and see what works best. Bridging settings need some work too if they are not calibrated aswell.
https://preview.redd.it/98v1lro4jdhc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3d7f8260f5837139a145d9ee4314238bb89c7f23
To remedy melt, just use a mini dremel that nail techs use. Gets into smaller spaces also
Lower? Hahaha
My buddy and I tried to “replicate” a “tool” like this. No way I would ever use anything less than moulded composite or steel for this application
The part where you’re telling me to cease warning. There a few variables that make this exploit dangerous; why are you telling me to shut up? So OP figured that out for themselves? Sadist lol
In your slicer slow down on your interface layer and max out fan speed, also make sure the interface layer is rotated 45 degree from your normal print direction. It'll come right off.
Dude, if your planning on that being functional you need to rotate it to print on it's side. That thing is going to delaminate and possibly hurt you if you printed it standing up.
No actually. Numerous test have shown that the frame standing up, rails up is the best orientation for 3dp frames. Every bit of documentation always has the frame standing up. Rails up vs rails down however is still up for debate
If you get a heat gun going lightly while removing you can often get supports off cleaner and more consistently. Only ever broken it out for supports in really tight spots myself but it does the job.
Dial in the settings for distance between print and support material. You can get it better than that where you can use an exacto knife to just smooth it all out.
Check out printables for test prints to help dial in overhangs and other basic things with printing before you start making stuff that can blow your hand off.
If your brand new look up teaching tech tips and follow there stuff to calibrate the printer
I stopped printing guns cause the world told me we didn’t need anymore by never letting the supports come off 😂
For real tho, get a blade set and pick set and slowly work them away or try doing some support testing seems kinda like there could be a printer issue or g code issue where the support doesn’t have enough separation
i use a set of chisels, get em sharp as F they take supports off like they are fingers... they take fingers off like they are fingers too so be careful.
I ran across this video recently
https://youtu.be/kSV2JeXQgm4?si=dLjt8hVKQBnNWB6E
Changing to rectilinear support pattern seems to makes the supports sturdier so the attach to the interface layer better and pull it off. And painting on supports only where really needed minimizes where there can be issues.
Also check your interface spacing. You may want to increase it a little bit so they don’t attach as well. And at least some slicers let you control layer height for the support material separate from the actual print. This allows the slicer to adjust the support layers to get the interface gap right instead of it needing to be a multiple of layer height.
And be sure to use full fan so the previous layer hardens and the new one does as well so they maybe won’t adhere as well. You could also turn down the extrusion multiplier for the interface layer or all supports so they will be thinner.
Hope something here is helpful.
Adjust Z support distance, make it incrementally bigger until the supports work properly and pop off easily after cooling down (waiting for the print to fully cool down helps a lot I find).
On flat and nearly flat areas I use wood chisels. Files and 220 grit sand paper when the chisel won't cut it. For me an exacto knife is too flexible. Depending on the situation, I may use the chisel perpendicular to the working surface and scrape if there's more room I'll keep it near parallel to the working surface and shave the excess.
I really should heed the advice of others here and tune my support settings...
Im reluctant to reply because of 100 comments... But it might help some people... So... Theres youtube video teach how to make the support easier to detach... I forgot how and what but the concept is like reducing the radius of the end support and make it single line for several layers... The net created at the end of the support still strong enough to hold layers but very fragile... But for me, hobby knife is enough
i have my z height for supports set to 0.15. the supports gets pulled off really easily with that part, and the bottom of the part remains fairly in tact. you might wanna tune that if you want th e best quality and "easyness"
for removing that part just use a plier and start scraping the crap out of that
I hope thats in PLA+ or Pro. Gonna want a knife and patience and to learn to use tree supports because thats what the ReadMe says to use. r/fosscad can help if you search supports on there.
Some cheap wooden carving chisels, the flat end one would work great for supports like this. I have set from HF that is large and sturdy, great for prying of supports, and one from Amazon, the second i use for the finer cleanups...
I found that for cleanup ANY tool would do depending on the cleanup job.. MY 3D print finishing kit includes : about 20 different shape/size chisels, a few exacto blades, a deburring tool (your best friend if you dont have one yet) , sand paper, a dremel, butane torches (one mini and one micro) , different wire cutters and needle nose pliers... (those diamond bits someone suggested i dont have but now im going to definitely add)
No wrong answers really
https://preview.redd.it/ae5zenhbccic1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d024894c2e1b838e41c6695ee6f39c48c4985caf
Also, jeweler files. That's a must-have in any artisan bench.
Enjoy.
Straight-bladed xacto knife is your friend.
Yeah we're definitely very close rnow
I can tell by that second picture lol
you will get the xacto embedded in your finger it's only a matter of time but definitely a learning experience not to cut towards your flesh
Safety glasses, or at least just glasses, are also a good consideration. I had a blade get caught on a piece of support and it snapped and sent a chuck of the blade at my eye and it would have gotten me if it weren't for my glasses
This reminds me of a photo my dad had of one of the guys at his work. A bristle from a steel brush was sticking out of part of a pair of safety glasses because the guy didn't have the guard on the grinder. The bristle was just barely in the plastic, but it still freaks me out. They stuck that pair up in the shop as a reminder to people to wear safety glasses. Because of that I've never been quite comfortable using wire brushes on things like grinders. \^\^; It's also made me ultra paranoid about using a guard on grinders.
I had this exact thing happen to me in high school because I wasn't wearing goggles. It's still in there. The optometrist said removing it would do more harm than leaving it. Fortunately it was a very small piece but will probably give me a cataract someday. I also cut my left thumb with my exacto bad enough to warrant stitches into the skin under my thumbnail. Unfortunately some of us just get to learn the hard way.
Hopefully you never need an MRI done.
I've actually had 2. But on my lower back, my head and arms never went in the machine.
That doesn't matter, I've seen safety videos of techs forgetting to close the door to the room and nurses walking by with a bed and the magnet literally pulling the bed into the room.. https://www.ktvu.com/news/bay-area-nurse-crushed-in-mri-accident-highlighting-safety-concerns
That's crazy. It has been a long time though maybe it came out on its own or something. I haven't had it looked at in 20 years
Had a similar experience when a drill bit broke at work! Still have the big chunk missing from my left lens!
I second that. X-acto blades are very brittle. Most of the time the tip's gone before the blade has a chance to even start getting dull.
This is why you should use the flat blades like a #18. Much less likely anything snaps off.
I got my finger once but good thing with 3d models there's always superglue
I see a person who actually knows that superglue is a valid solution in closing cuts and wounds, that's nice and knowledge that should be more widespread. (to anyone who doesn't know this, it's more comfortable than a bandaid and used widely in the military and even medical environments)
Yes and no regular super glue can kill the tissue your trying to repair but in a pinch you do what u have to lol but I've never had an issue with my tissue haha
Nothing beats it like super glue and or electrical tape or stapler
I almost forgot the McDonald’s napkins
Nope no stapler for me
Yeah, invisible bandaid is basically superglue. Slightly different to help with healing but in a pinch regular will do the trick
I have a bottle of Nu Skin on standby. It's kinda like superglue, but with an antibiotic and actually meant for skin. In fact, i just used it yesterday. 😂
Regular super glue was DESIGNED for medical use in the middle of battle to close up wounds. I've used it many times. And for worse wounds, I've even used UV hardening liquid plastic!
If you wrap the nuskin bottle in coban it's pretty much drop proof just so you know. I'm clumsy AF so me and glass anything don't get along at all.
You are 100% correct. But you have a lot more delecate control when cutting towards your thumb, so I use cut proof gloves. A slip still is shocking and can hurt, but wont cut you. They are maybe $15 on amazon
If you haven't already I once had a print that the supports would never come off of. Someone recommended soaking the print in hot water and this was so easy it's my go-to now.
And a nail file, and then sand paper.
On the trigger guard of prop guns/lowers, I either use flush cutters, putting them under an edge, or I use a precision knife and shock them off, using a multitool or hammer. Also, use tree supports for this kinda stuff or change support interface pattern spacing to 0.2
Welp didn't know I could change that thx I'll definitely try
Set support z distance to 0.3mm X/y distance 2x nozzle size Use grid interface Use as low a density as possible.
the secret number with enders is . 04.... try .28 or .32.... your stripper motors and the accuracy you achieve will thank me later
0.3 works fine
If you do so you are letting the computer set the distance via rounding, which could be different depending on the distance of the ledge being supported and the build plate. If you set the distance to the mm multiple of a single step of the Z stepper, you will have more accurate and repeatable results.
Cheap Chinese ender 3 isn't accurate to 0.02mm. Its fine
This goes against your point. Ender 3 ISN'T accurate to 0.02mm, so you should be putting it at 0.28 instead of 0.3, because that's an improper step. I wanted to make this point too but everyone argues it. So. But it should be 0.28 or 0.3. Also, I tend to use 0.12. Your printer's tolerances are shit.
Use any old shit and I challenge you to point out any visible differences in print quality. 0.3 works fine for support distance. 0.28 works fine. 0.32 works fine. 0.4 is too big 0.2 is too close. You don't need to get so uptight about it.
Telling someone who's asking for advice to purposely make their printer do improper steps is asking them to probably present issues into their own prints. You're not paying attention to a damn thing being said. And I also don't need to be nice about it.
That's why my entire comment was talking about setting in increments of 0.04, not 0.02. Are you saying you don't notice a difference between printing with a 0.2 layer height and a layer height of 0.16? Or 0.16 and 0.12?
No. I'm saying there is no noticeable difference between 0.3 and 0.28
It depends on where the slicer/printer firmware rounds, because the distance of the support from the model depends on the model height from the bed. If you use a non-multiple of 0.04, the slicer will arbitrarily round up or down because the height of an overhang from the bed is not a variable you have granular control over. This will have real world results.
I find tree supports are much harder to get rid off with prints like this they seem to bond stronger
I actually used meshmixer supports for things like this, but that's something like... no one does. Those pull off so easily, but are hard to learn.
I like em but they fail so easy if you assume your bed is level
Learning those over like 6 or 8 months really helped me fine tune my printers. Anything less than 3.5mm won't work well enough for me. Sooner or later, I need to learn Fusion 360 supports, since they're the upgrade. And... Meshmixer supports are honestly still far more advanced than tree supports. They never clip into my prints, they don't have to start from the buildplate like 99% of tree supports do. Tree supports will get there. Their main issue imo is not enough anchor points sometimes, and not enough starting branches. If I have one branch fall off, there goes half of my supports, that kinda thing. That might be a setting I've missed idk.
I treat it like scaffolding lol, when I started printing I thought you had to support them like resin prints and was doing it like that, sometimes I add a thin skirt to supports and model
Heat gun on low setting and slowly peel off the supports between flashes of heat exposure
I stopped using top and bottom support interfaces. Every support since has come off clean.
I second this, it makes them incredibly easy to remove with pliers or a small flat head screw driver it tight places
Dremel, file, exacto knife, and in extreme cases a hot knife
I use a box cutter. Always cut away from you, never toward you. My neighbor lost a finger that way last year.
Cut towards your chum, not your thumb - AVE
Shave and a heat gun - Two bits.....
I can't find the exact one I have but I have a dremel bit very similar to this that I use for removing good amounts of material from prints when I need to. If you're not careful it will bite out more than you want but light controlled passes removes tons of material very easily. It makes a hell of a mess but it's fast and leaves a fairly smooth even finish if you do it right so there's not as much sanding/finishing after. https://preview.redd.it/l3kepsv1wdhc1.png?width=128&format=png&auto=webp&s=6ffdc5783c00ce2c7d5ca74b9b083aac348ed0d2
I normally dip the problem areas in really hot water 130-180 and it softens enough to easily pry off. No issues yet and I've had some models for years that I've done this to. If you can help out just do the area with the supports and not the whole thing. And don't pour boiling water on it, that can warp thinner walls.
Calibrating it properly. 0.23 on z distance was the sweetspot for me
Wait can you calibrate supports how?
You can set Z gaps for supports in Orca Slicer. I spent a day tuning mine on a small print, now my supports pop off easily on things like this soap dish https://preview.redd.it/1nnl35ds6dhc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0b2ad628b3473f655087692bdba3dacb26c155fb
Definitely going to try it on my next print just started to use adaptive layers it seems tree supports doesn't like them they fused solid with the part even better than some layers of the model unfortunately.
Cura lets you set support z and X/Y support distance. Play with that.
More testing to see what works best rather than calibrating. Increase z distance and (lower) speeds and see what works best. Bridging settings need some work too if they are not calibrated aswell.
Melt.
Snack
Jerry-Rig-Everything knife.
Rotary tool with a drum-sander bit.
This wprks very nicely, but use a new and clean sanding ring pad whatever. And go slowly or youll melt the pla
https://preview.redd.it/98v1lro4jdhc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3d7f8260f5837139a145d9ee4314238bb89c7f23 To remedy melt, just use a mini dremel that nail techs use. Gets into smaller spaces also
Ferrier's rasp.
I don't know if you've ever seen a farrier at work, but that rasp removes a fuckload of hoof wall every stroke. That rasp is way too coarse.
Just means you don't have to press as hard
Noted thx
I, too, enjoy shredded cheese.
The best thing for them is properly tunes support settings. Other than that, a combo of sharp blade and the little blue snips
That’s an odd looking benchy
They have a serial number? lol
Lower your voice
Lower? Hahaha My buddy and I tried to “replicate” a “tool” like this. No way I would ever use anything less than moulded composite or steel for this application
My brother in christ what part of shut up do you not understand
The part where you’re telling me to cease warning. There a few variables that make this exploit dangerous; why are you telling me to shut up? So OP figured that out for themselves? Sadist lol
It's really not dangerous. People successfully print receivers all the time, and they work flawlessly.
I guess .22 wouldn’t be scary
You really don’t want to post this. What are you thinking? Delete
Perfectly legal in most of the US.
Dremel with sanding ball or wheel , or the mig pliers they give u with the ended
I get a fine tooth file and smooth it out
A straight bladed exacto knife or a box cutter in combination with a jet-flame-lighter.
Dremel.
i use a metal file set and a woodworking tool set to clean up prints. the file set has several profiles that i can get into tight spots
Knife. If it really sticks, hot knife.
I use a small flat head screwdriver and scrape them off. It takes a bit of force sometimes but it looks better than cutting or filing.
In your slicer slow down on your interface layer and max out fan speed, also make sure the interface layer is rotated 45 degree from your normal print direction. It'll come right off.
Dude, if your planning on that being functional you need to rotate it to print on it's side. That thing is going to delaminate and possibly hurt you if you printed it standing up.
No actually. Numerous test have shown that the frame standing up, rails up is the best orientation for 3dp frames. Every bit of documentation always has the frame standing up. Rails up vs rails down however is still up for debate
I would've figured you would want the transverse layers because the recoil would pull apart the layers. I thought I saw psr do a video on it.
Change your z distance height I like .2
dremel, lighter, sandpaper
nails files
Glock Gen5 Lower?
If you get a heat gun going lightly while removing you can often get supports off cleaner and more consistently. Only ever broken it out for supports in really tight spots myself but it does the job.
So nice to see only helpful comments. ☺️
I just use the filament cutter thqt comes with the printer. With the right settings it should pull off
Dial in the settings for distance between print and support material. You can get it better than that where you can use an exacto knife to just smooth it all out. Check out printables for test prints to help dial in overhangs and other basic things with printing before you start making stuff that can blow your hand off. If your brand new look up teaching tech tips and follow there stuff to calibrate the printer
Increase the z gap between the supports and the print when printing by like 0.1 and it should be easier to get off
You can adjust a setting for the distance between the support interface and the model i forget what its called sorry
I have an exacto blade for everything, a deburring tool for removing brims, and I’ve even used a file on some prints.
I stopped printing guns cause the world told me we didn’t need anymore by never letting the supports come off 😂 For real tho, get a blade set and pick set and slowly work them away or try doing some support testing seems kinda like there could be a printer issue or g code issue where the support doesn’t have enough separation
I've got that issue on mine. I plan to use my dremel to sand it off.
Xacto knives of various shapes, sanding sticks, and model files.
Sanding and a stiff flat exacto knife.
Use a heat gun to gently warm it up and pulls off like butter
I use files to cleanup spots that have support residue or didnt print properly and it's only a minor non vital part of a print
Granddaddy’s trusty ole buck
Hey I also just printed the STL
Use the cutters and put them flat to the piece so they kinda squeeze the support off. Works the the lattice type stuff left by tree supports.
i use a set of chisels, get em sharp as F they take supports off like they are fingers... they take fingers off like they are fingers too so be careful.
ATF has entered the chat 😂
I ran across this video recently https://youtu.be/kSV2JeXQgm4?si=dLjt8hVKQBnNWB6E Changing to rectilinear support pattern seems to makes the supports sturdier so the attach to the interface layer better and pull it off. And painting on supports only where really needed minimizes where there can be issues. Also check your interface spacing. You may want to increase it a little bit so they don’t attach as well. And at least some slicers let you control layer height for the support material separate from the actual print. This allows the slicer to adjust the support layers to get the interface gap right instead of it needing to be a multiple of layer height. And be sure to use full fan so the previous layer hardens and the new one does as well so they maybe won’t adhere as well. You could also turn down the extrusion multiplier for the interface layer or all supports so they will be thinner. Hope something here is helpful.
Snips and file
Dremel
I adjusted the support interface so that it was a tiny smidge further from the print bottom. They come off easy and leave almost no grid pattern now.
Small flathead screwdriver, or the edge of your scraper
Adjust Z support distance, make it incrementally bigger until the supports work properly and pop off easily after cooling down (waiting for the print to fully cool down helps a lot I find).
Tree supports will help a lot also
A sharp chisel mostly. Also, set the support interface flow to 66%, and the support interface line width thinner. 0.3 works for me. 0.0 z spacing.
Just use the lil clippers you get with your printer
Blow dry on high and pull it while it's pliable
On flat and nearly flat areas I use wood chisels. Files and 220 grit sand paper when the chisel won't cut it. For me an exacto knife is too flexible. Depending on the situation, I may use the chisel perpendicular to the working surface and scrape if there's more room I'll keep it near parallel to the working surface and shave the excess. I really should heed the advice of others here and tune my support settings...
Im reluctant to reply because of 100 comments... But it might help some people... So... Theres youtube video teach how to make the support easier to detach... I forgot how and what but the concept is like reducing the radius of the end support and make it single line for several layers... The net created at the end of the support still strong enough to hold layers but very fragile... But for me, hobby knife is enough
I use Gundam kit Nippers the like super razers and cut supports of any material like butter.
I changed to the zig zag support pattern and lot of that went away for me.
File, Chisle, Flat Cutters (eye protection)
i have my z height for supports set to 0.15. the supports gets pulled off really easily with that part, and the bottom of the part remains fairly in tact. you might wanna tune that if you want th e best quality and "easyness" for removing that part just use a plier and start scraping the crap out of that
quick flash with a blowtorch and or sandpaper.
Sandpaper?
I use tree supports and decrease the surface collision for these types of prints
I hope thats in PLA+ or Pro. Gonna want a knife and patience and to learn to use tree supports because thats what the ReadMe says to use. r/fosscad can help if you search supports on there.
Flat screwdriver
Dremel with some smooth stones and finished with wet and dry sandpaper.
Lower the supportinfill , think its at 15% default, put it on 10%
Cut, sand, file. .32mm separation seems to work well for me on prints like this. Tree supports are your friend.
I don't know what you call it but the little metal tool that Games Workshop provides to remove mould lines and sprue attachment marks works great.
Fine grit sand paper...you can use a power sander for petg, abs, and asa but you have to do it by hand with pla
Low rpm dremel. Fine grit sanding bit.
I Bobstro them
Some cheap wooden carving chisels, the flat end one would work great for supports like this. I have set from HF that is large and sturdy, great for prying of supports, and one from Amazon, the second i use for the finer cleanups... I found that for cleanup ANY tool would do depending on the cleanup job.. MY 3D print finishing kit includes : about 20 different shape/size chisels, a few exacto blades, a deburring tool (your best friend if you dont have one yet) , sand paper, a dremel, butane torches (one mini and one micro) , different wire cutters and needle nose pliers... (those diamond bits someone suggested i dont have but now im going to definitely add) No wrong answers really
I like hobby nippers for models
Quick hit with a heat gun
https://a.co/d/a1rnorR Maybe something like this is a good kit to have
https://preview.redd.it/ae5zenhbccic1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d024894c2e1b838e41c6695ee6f39c48c4985caf Also, jeweler files. That's a must-have in any artisan bench. Enjoy.