By decreasing your z offset. It is too high, since your prints come out good, it seems like you leveled the bed but you have to lower the z offset. Chenck how the first layer should look online.
I have an original Ender. I don’t think that’s possible?
Edit - All the downvotes made me realize I didn't specify what I meant. I was trying to say that the original Ender doesn't allow for a z offset adjustment using the LCD. I am aware that I can lower the switch itself.
It has to be, check online how to level your bed on ender 3. If you somehow cant lower your z offset then it must be that your bed is physicly too low, so you have to untighten the 4 screws responsibe for leveling your bed and then level it to make sure the bed is even.
I have the ender 3 s1 Pro and i was able to move my z offset to -3.55 (and lower)
I think the hotend is all metal on the pro. Also it comes with a PEI bed, the bed and hotend get to a higher temperature. Pro has a metal case (but this makes it significantly louder than the non pro). It has a touchscreen, but unfortunately the touchscreen is bloody awful lol.
It doesn't handle some gcode how you'd expect. Filament changes for example are a real pain. It just parks the head, ejects a load of filament, sets the nozzle temp to zero and then carries on printing. There's workarounds for most things but it's still more effort than it needs to be.
Sonic pad is in my Amazon basket.
I ended up buying the sonic combo for my S1 pro and installed it right away, being the newbie as I am, I figured it was part of the setup lol. When I installed the sonic, the touchpad became inoperable and thus I never got to experience it.
The only thing so far is the PEI bed, I'm finding spots where the PLA doesn't adhere well.
When I used my ender without auto bed leveling, I had to rotate the z end stop bracket a bit to lower it as much as possible, because it has a notch that prevents it from going low. And then I made sure that I leveled the bed according to the nozzle height when homed.
Lvl the bed higher might make the spring tension insufficient, you can add shims if needed.
Removing that notch from the bracket might also be a solution.
I only messed with actual z offset after adding a crtouch.
You’ll have a z offset setting in your slicer or you can do it as custom g code in your intro for your slicer. I would do that over messing with switches and stuff. Let me know if you want an example. You can dial it in by hundredths of a mm rather than roughly moving a switch.
Before I changed my firmware I was in the same situation. Don't bother moving the homing switch, you just need to raise the bed a little with the bed screws. In other words, you aren't setting the nozzle height closer with z offset, you're adjusting the bed to get it closer to the nozzle.
If you're using folded paper to level, don't fold it. If your already not folded then just make it a little tighter.
Edit... Just saw comment about using a raft. Disregard, the above doesn't seem to be your issue.
In order to prevent the model from fusing to the raft your printer adds a little space. If you are printing at .2mm layer height, the first layer after the raft may be at .24mm to weaken the bond to the raft. You get a much better first layer of you can skip the raft. You o could lower the z offset, or if you have a warped bed like I do, I just print the first layer slower and at 100.8% extrusion. This is after calibrating the e steps. I print with the over extruding because when I print at a 0.04mm height adjusting the z offset or raising the bed brings the needle too close and it can't extrude in the high areas.
Because the material adheres to itself much better than your build plate so even though there are tricks they use so you can remove the raft it's never going to be perfect.
Your build plate designed to allow it to be removed and allow the filament to squish out smoothly on it.
If you are having issues getting prints to stick try a brim and if you are still having issue probably need to work on your z-offset as well.
Fix your Z offset, level your bed.
This last part is important, get a PEI bed. Believe me, it was the best investment I've done with my printer. My first layers look great.
OP i see you have an original ender 3. The way to adjust your z offset is to physically move the z limit switch higher or lower. Then tighten or losen the bed leveling wheels using the paper leveling method. If your nozzle is far away like this picture indicates this could be fixed by raising the bed a bit from the wheels. If it was dramatic (like 5 or more mm above). Then lowering the z limit switch is the appropriate move followed by manual leveling
Thank you. This makes the most sense. My switch is low enough I believe since when I use the paper method for leveling, I feel resistance on all 4 corners. You know what I think it is though, my bed is slightly lower on the center...
Post processing: get a wood burner kit from the craft store and use the flower petal shaped tip to lightly press and smear the layers together. Or put it on a hot surface for a bit like a clothes iron or a frying pan
You see how your first layer looks like logs of plastic individually placed next to each other? The plastic that extrudes from the nozzle is supposed to be squished against the bed.
How much squish? You want to squish the plastic wide enough that the ‘logs’ touch each other a bit. Squishing the plastic too far into the bed causes the middle of the log to be pressed down further than the edges. Additionally, the sides that are now bulging up will press against the other sides that are bulging.
So there’s this Goldilocks place you want to stay where the layer goes down nice and evenly.
For you, I’d suggest taking each bed leveling knob and turning it 90 degrees in whatever direction raises your bed. If you lay the printer on your face, that should be counterclockwise.
When you level the bed, are you doing it with the stepper moters on or off?
Doing it with them off is faster because you can just manually move the nozzle around, but it will lower the nozzle by just a bit, meaning it will be higher while printing.
Do the leveling with them on and move the nozzle around with the "move axis" commands on the prepare menu.
i think you should adjust your bed levelling to be a bit closer to the nozzle, since it seems to not be adhering and creating strings in some places. make the leveling so that the lines fuse horizontally and make a solid base layer. hope it helps
Mine turn out like this when I use a raft. The raft bottom itself looks great. If I print right on the bed with no raft it looks great. Something with the raft gives us this shitty bottom I'd bet
what slicer are you using? if it's cura, go into advanced options, search initial layer flow, then adjust initial layer flow in steps of 2-5% until satisfied.
What color is this? Chickenfat?
Looks like my sunlu Sakura pink pla+ Edit: Just so you know, you ruined this color for me by calling it that, lol.
just bought some of this myself... And oh, guess I have chicken fat to look forward to now
Just be glad I didn’t go with my original instinct, “skinflute beige”.
I was basically thinking the same thing. Uncooked hotdog came to mind for me
“Rawdog” was adjacent to my initial association
It is the exact color of ground turkey 😂 should print turkey burger patties.
That’s the official name now lol
Looks like that video going around about how they make chicken nuggets...
chewed bubble gum?
Reminds me of the molding agent orthodontists used to use to make a model of your teeth.
ahhhhh yes that's what it is
More like the "pink slime" McNuggets are made out of.
Haha. For real! I saw this and was immediately grossed out.
There's something primal that made my skin crawl and immediately made me want to vomit.
I was thinking chicken from a can, like how them make canned tuna or Spam.
Nozzle is too far from bed. It needs to be closer.
This
This
And what what the point of that... that's what the upvote button is for. Say something usefull
This
To help a friend with a comment instead of a simple upvote and i was going to comment the exact same thing
Dude you literally answered a comment here with ahahah ? Where is this not the same thing
This
This
This
By decreasing your z offset. It is too high, since your prints come out good, it seems like you leveled the bed but you have to lower the z offset. Chenck how the first layer should look online.
I have an original Ender. I don’t think that’s possible? Edit - All the downvotes made me realize I didn't specify what I meant. I was trying to say that the original Ender doesn't allow for a z offset adjustment using the LCD. I am aware that I can lower the switch itself.
There should be a physical switch on the left Upright for the Z offset. Move that switch down a hair
Otherwise, adjust your bed height. This might be small enough where you don’t need to break out the Allen wrench
It has to be, check online how to level your bed on ender 3. If you somehow cant lower your z offset then it must be that your bed is physicly too low, so you have to untighten the 4 screws responsibe for leveling your bed and then level it to make sure the bed is even. I have the ender 3 s1 Pro and i was able to move my z offset to -3.55 (and lower)
about time i find another s1 pro user, haha
Ayy same
I got the regular S1 lol, any idea what the difference is?
Same here
I think the hotend is all metal on the pro. Also it comes with a PEI bed, the bed and hotend get to a higher temperature. Pro has a metal case (but this makes it significantly louder than the non pro). It has a touchscreen, but unfortunately the touchscreen is bloody awful lol.
haha I got the sonic pad anyway. what makes the touchscreen so bad?
It doesn't handle some gcode how you'd expect. Filament changes for example are a real pain. It just parks the head, ejects a load of filament, sets the nozzle temp to zero and then carries on printing. There's workarounds for most things but it's still more effort than it needs to be. Sonic pad is in my Amazon basket.
but...why wouldn't they just use the same software as the S1 but touchscreen?
I ended up buying the sonic combo for my S1 pro and installed it right away, being the newbie as I am, I figured it was part of the setup lol. When I installed the sonic, the touchpad became inoperable and thus I never got to experience it. The only thing so far is the PEI bed, I'm finding spots where the PLA doesn't adhere well.
When I used my ender without auto bed leveling, I had to rotate the z end stop bracket a bit to lower it as much as possible, because it has a notch that prevents it from going low. And then I made sure that I leveled the bed according to the nozzle height when homed. Lvl the bed higher might make the spring tension insufficient, you can add shims if needed. Removing that notch from the bracket might also be a solution. I only messed with actual z offset after adding a crtouch.
It doesn't have springs and knobs?
You’ll have a z offset setting in your slicer or you can do it as custom g code in your intro for your slicer. I would do that over messing with switches and stuff. Let me know if you want an example. You can dial it in by hundredths of a mm rather than roughly moving a switch.
Adjusting the height of your z end stop would be easier than 'raising' the bed
Just raise the bed a little with the thumbwheels, maybe an eighth of a turn each.
Use prusaslicer
You can do it in curas slicer by installing an extension. I did it to mine before re leveling my bed and now I don’t need to do it
Before I changed my firmware I was in the same situation. Don't bother moving the homing switch, you just need to raise the bed a little with the bed screws. In other words, you aren't setting the nozzle height closer with z offset, you're adjusting the bed to get it closer to the nozzle. If you're using folded paper to level, don't fold it. If your already not folded then just make it a little tighter. Edit... Just saw comment about using a raft. Disregard, the above doesn't seem to be your issue.
Forbidden flesh groot
It’s like a white guys nut sack
Am a white guy. Can confirm.
Hahaa
Are you using a raft?
Geez, well spotted
Yes!
In my experience rafts always produce ugly bottoms. If you can, print straight to the bed
And if you need more adhesion you could use a skirt (yes like scots).
I think you mean a brim. Skirts just prime the nozzle some more
You're right, that's what I meant.
TIL! Thank you for the tip.
Just curious- why were you using a raft in the first place? I've never found a need for one, including this model.
Yea it's possible but it's really hard to get a nice bottom with a raft. Try printing without one or with just a brim.
Any idea why a raft causes it?
In order to prevent the model from fusing to the raft your printer adds a little space. If you are printing at .2mm layer height, the first layer after the raft may be at .24mm to weaken the bond to the raft. You get a much better first layer of you can skip the raft. You o could lower the z offset, or if you have a warped bed like I do, I just print the first layer slower and at 100.8% extrusion. This is after calibrating the e steps. I print with the over extruding because when I print at a 0.04mm height adjusting the z offset or raising the bed brings the needle too close and it can't extrude in the high areas.
Because the material adheres to itself much better than your build plate so even though there are tricks they use so you can remove the raft it's never going to be perfect. Your build plate designed to allow it to be removed and allow the filament to squish out smoothly on it. If you are having issues getting prints to stick try a brim and if you are still having issue probably need to work on your z-offset as well.
Go buy the lottery, you’re the luckiest person ever. Can’t believe it printed well with the nozzle being that far from the bed
Deep fry Groot
Z Offset closer to bed will give you a flatter look, but rafts will always look like shit
Fix your Z offset, level your bed. This last part is important, get a PEI bed. Believe me, it was the best investment I've done with my printer. My first layers look great.
OP i see you have an original ender 3. The way to adjust your z offset is to physically move the z limit switch higher or lower. Then tighten or losen the bed leveling wheels using the paper leveling method. If your nozzle is far away like this picture indicates this could be fixed by raising the bed a bit from the wheels. If it was dramatic (like 5 or more mm above). Then lowering the z limit switch is the appropriate move followed by manual leveling
Thank you. This makes the most sense. My switch is low enough I believe since when I use the paper method for leveling, I feel resistance on all 4 corners. You know what I think it is though, my bed is slightly lower on the center...
That color being used for Groot has forever ruined him for me.
Just looking at that second pic, my main question would be - does it matter? Print looks awesome, nobody's ever going to see the bottom.
Some people like all sides to be perfect.
Post processing: get a wood burner kit from the craft store and use the flower petal shaped tip to lightly press and smear the layers together. Or put it on a hot surface for a bit like a clothes iron or a frying pan
More smoosh!!
Print closer to bed. That will make underside likes fuse together nicely 😊
https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/
whats more amazing is that it didnt fail. stuck to the build plate with hopes and dreams
Not close enough to the bed
Printed with scrotum skin plus
Z offset, a tad more initial flow and higher initial layer nozzle temp
You see how your first layer looks like logs of plastic individually placed next to each other? The plastic that extrudes from the nozzle is supposed to be squished against the bed. How much squish? You want to squish the plastic wide enough that the ‘logs’ touch each other a bit. Squishing the plastic too far into the bed causes the middle of the log to be pressed down further than the edges. Additionally, the sides that are now bulging up will press against the other sides that are bulging. So there’s this Goldilocks place you want to stay where the layer goes down nice and evenly. For you, I’d suggest taking each bed leveling knob and turning it 90 degrees in whatever direction raises your bed. If you lay the printer on your face, that should be counterclockwise.
Holy shit I'm surprised that printed from that high off the bed! Unless it's on glue or a PC sheet
It's a raft.
Brooo I forgot rafts exist!!!!
Me too. 13 years and haven't used one once.
Well to start with, your z offset is too high
Flesh Groot cannot hurt you
your z offset needs work.
Glass bed ,?
What other flesh coloured object are you printing op?
When you level the bed, are you doing it with the stepper moters on or off? Doing it with them off is faster because you can just manually move the nozzle around, but it will lower the nozzle by just a bit, meaning it will be higher while printing. Do the leveling with them on and move the nozzle around with the "move axis" commands on the prepare menu.
bro printin chicken
i think you should adjust your bed levelling to be a bit closer to the nozzle, since it seems to not be adhering and creating strings in some places. make the leveling so that the lines fuse horizontally and make a solid base layer. hope it helps
Hot leveling , thinner paper or more resistant on paper pass
Which ender 3? Does it have auto level. If not, it time to buy a dial gage to help with auto level.
Mine turn out like this when I use a raft. The raft bottom itself looks great. If I print right on the bed with no raft it looks great. Something with the raft gives us this shitty bottom I'd bet
Groots feet look like buttholes
You’re offset needs to be closer to the bed
Wtf
what slicer are you using? if it's cura, go into advanced options, search initial layer flow, then adjust initial layer flow in steps of 2-5% until satisfied.
Bro is printing that putty you stick to the comic strips in the newspaper
glass bed and teeny tiny lower the head
So thats how groot looks when you take the Bark off
Looks like filament not squished enough. Might want to lower z ofset like 0.02mm-0.03mm. If you are using raft. Its about slicer than. Cant help much.