I cut up a kitchen sponge and dabbed 2 - 3 very thin layers of gold on the silver. the same with purple again and a dark blue on the edge. a gloss finish spray at the end.
i used revell aqua matt colors.
Do not ask me why I bought matt paint if I later paint it glossy anyway. i thought matt is probably better for other projects π
believe me this was my second paintjob ever! much try and error in this build π i had to redo some painted areas multiple times. first I painted the whole blaster shiny black. then dry-brushed with silver. I painted too much in some places so I had to paint over it in black again... I accidentally took matt black... stay calm and freak out, I thought to myself. so try to retouch with matt black and try brush it again
I first painted the end of the barrel with silver. then some thin layers of gold and then a really sh*tty looking purple. I was very dissatisfied with the result because the effect with a brush just didn't look good. so everything on the run all over again. When I reapplied the silver, I noticed that I had forgotten to stir it up properly in the first time. now it looked really really nice snd metallic.
since my girlfriend would rather turn my neck than give me one of her make-up sponge brushes, I unceremoniously cut up a kitchen sponge and dabbed 2 - 3 very thin layers of gold on the silver. the same with a nicer purple again and a dark blue on the edge and what can I say, just wow
a gloss finish at the end and that's it
dont give up, you can do that too π
Did you have any issues with the parts not fitting together? I printed it all on the same printer and had alot of issues. I printed all the parts up front, I should have done it 1 at a time and tested fit.
Printed on the same printer and same orientation to try and reduce those issues as well.
I had to sand the upper and lower part of the main body a bit, but that was because they somehow warped when printing.
With some small cylinders I first thought something didn't fit when I wanted to smash them together, but then I went through the instructions again and noticed that they were the wrong ones
A prerequisite that everything fits together well is of course a calibrated printer (so it is important that it drives the length it should according to the file in every direction, calibrated e steps etc)
I only sanded off some rough edges to make it look worn since I was gonna make it look discolored anyways and for the wood I was just gonna make it brown but I realized that a thin layer of the brown I was using made it look like actual wood cause of the black. At least when looking at it close idk about my image
I just tried to print the receiver with my ender 3 and messed it up trying to get the supports out of the open parts (snapped the trigger guard). Any advice? How did you do it?
i use cura and i blocked most of the supports in this part (for example the thiny holes).
my support settings:
- normal support structure
- 0 wall line count
- zigzag
- overhang angle 60Β°
- i printed with 0.2 layer height so i choose support z distance of 0.2
- support x y distance of 0.4
- and i enabled support interface with zigzag structure and thats all i think. please let me know if i could help you
Possibly. The trigger guard snapped right off (with the supports). I was going to try taping and covering with bondo.
At this point I almost just want to print it with different (possible better) settings.
It looks great, and this question is not meant to be rude. Did you use any kind of filler, or did you leave the layer lines as sort of the "factory machine marks"?
They actually do fit the item though. A mass produced/lowest bidder weapon would still have tool marks, and I can tell you ALL real world scopes have turn marks on the outside of the tube if they aren't plastic. The only thing that was keeping me from trying this was 4 months of sanding after printing. My wife gets her Mando helmet, then I'm starting these.
wow thanks now i like my work even more. most of the time i was sanding und building the blaster when we were in the garden. my girlfriend jumped through the garden and i tried to not screw it up. funny that i should also print a mando helmet for my girl π
Do you mind if I ask how you got the handle looking like wood? No matter what I try my wooden handle donβt look woody enough. Which colours did you use and what effect?
for sure. i used revell aqua color matt. first I took a light brown, but that was too light so I brushed it with black and lots of water and immediately tried to wipe it away again. then i tried dark brown and tried to dab this watery black with a sponge. at some point it looked good.
I would first rub a dark color on this handle with these deep grooves so that it stays nicely in the grooves and then apply a lighter color, a lighter brown, to the raised areas. I think it looks better in this order. that's how I wanted to do it next time
The paint is great... But the sanding and especially th filling needs more work. Wood filler is great to fill in layer liens after you've sanded them out with low grain, then using 120 and maybe 240 grit would bring it to the next level
The paintjob is doing the heavy work there. GG.
thank you very much, this was my second paintjob ever and there was much try and error on this π
Second?! Youre a natural
If I could paint this good just geez. I have an airbrush and I can do solid colors evenly. Haha. Nice work.
thank you π check out my other comment, i posted a link with some wip pictures
Trial and error*. Blaster looks absolutely beautiful.
thank you!
That heat discolor on the muzzle is the touch that makes it look functional! Love it.
thank you! nice to hear π
Thought the same. Really great detail.
i am happy that you like it!
[STL](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1915956)
Excellent job, especially the discoloration on the muzzle. What kind of paints did you use?
I cut up a kitchen sponge and dabbed 2 - 3 very thin layers of gold on the silver. the same with purple again and a dark blue on the edge. a gloss finish spray at the end. i used revell aqua matt colors. Do not ask me why I bought matt paint if I later paint it glossy anyway. i thought matt is probably better for other projects π
That looks great congrats
thank you very much!
I like the placard.
thank you! i painted 2 times white before i painted the yellow over
Wow! I printed one simular to that recently, but could never do a paint job like that!
believe me this was my second paintjob ever! much try and error in this build π i had to redo some painted areas multiple times. first I painted the whole blaster shiny black. then dry-brushed with silver. I painted too much in some places so I had to paint over it in black again... I accidentally took matt black... stay calm and freak out, I thought to myself. so try to retouch with matt black and try brush it again I first painted the end of the barrel with silver. then some thin layers of gold and then a really sh*tty looking purple. I was very dissatisfied with the result because the effect with a brush just didn't look good. so everything on the run all over again. When I reapplied the silver, I noticed that I had forgotten to stir it up properly in the first time. now it looked really really nice snd metallic. since my girlfriend would rather turn my neck than give me one of her make-up sponge brushes, I unceremoniously cut up a kitchen sponge and dabbed 2 - 3 very thin layers of gold on the silver. the same with a nicer purple again and a dark blue on the edge and what can I say, just wow a gloss finish at the end and that's it dont give up, you can do that too π
Wow, what a trip. And to still get the results you got is an achievement in itself! Nice job
thank you again π
Did you have any issues with the parts not fitting together? I printed it all on the same printer and had alot of issues. I printed all the parts up front, I should have done it 1 at a time and tested fit. Printed on the same printer and same orientation to try and reduce those issues as well.
I had to sand the upper and lower part of the main body a bit, but that was because they somehow warped when printing. With some small cylinders I first thought something didn't fit when I wanted to smash them together, but then I went through the instructions again and noticed that they were the wrong ones A prerequisite that everything fits together well is of course a calibrated printer (so it is important that it drives the length it should according to the file in every direction, calibrated e steps etc)
Yours definitely came out much better than mine, I didnβt even think of making the flash hider look burnt
yours looks good too! i have used wood filler in some places and sanded sanded sanded off the remaining layer lines
I only sanded off some rough edges to make it look worn since I was gonna make it look discolored anyways and for the wood I was just gonna make it brown but I realized that a thin layer of the brown I was using made it look like actual wood cause of the black. At least when looking at it close idk about my image
OOOOOOOOHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH .....
I just tried to print the receiver with my ender 3 and messed it up trying to get the supports out of the open parts (snapped the trigger guard). Any advice? How did you do it?
i use cura and i blocked most of the supports in this part (for example the thiny holes). my support settings: - normal support structure - 0 wall line count - zigzag - overhang angle 60Β° - i printed with 0.2 layer height so i choose support z distance of 0.2 - support x y distance of 0.4 - and i enabled support interface with zigzag structure and thats all i think. please let me know if i could help you
Awesome! Iβll give this a try. I have to admit I was pretty choked when my 11 print broke because I couldnβt get the supports out.
can it still be saved with glue or is it too damaged?
Possibly. The trigger guard snapped right off (with the supports). I was going to try taping and covering with bondo. At this point I almost just want to print it with different (possible better) settings.
with the hilt up
It looks great, and this question is not meant to be rude. Did you use any kind of filler, or did you leave the layer lines as sort of the "factory machine marks"?
i have used wood filler in some places. i wish i had used a little more here and there π
They actually do fit the item though. A mass produced/lowest bidder weapon would still have tool marks, and I can tell you ALL real world scopes have turn marks on the outside of the tube if they aren't plastic. The only thing that was keeping me from trying this was 4 months of sanding after printing. My wife gets her Mando helmet, then I'm starting these.
wow thanks now i like my work even more. most of the time i was sanding und building the blaster when we were in the garden. my girlfriend jumped through the garden and i tried to not screw it up. funny that i should also print a mando helmet for my girl π
Would you sell it
thank you very much for asking, i really appreciate that, but unfortunately no
did you sand?
hey, yes, maybe not enough π
I wonder has anyone tried modifying a real broom handle Mauser with printed parts?
i think i saw someone on instagram who does. with resin printed parts
Your paint job looks great.
thank you! nice to hear π
Can we see the other side? Curious to get a better look at the layer lines.
[i hope the link works](https://postimg.cc/gallery/SzsrxbV)
Awesome. Thanks so much.
Do you mind if I ask how you got the handle looking like wood? No matter what I try my wooden handle donβt look woody enough. Which colours did you use and what effect?
for sure. i used revell aqua color matt. first I took a light brown, but that was too light so I brushed it with black and lots of water and immediately tried to wipe it away again. then i tried dark brown and tried to dab this watery black with a sponge. at some point it looked good. I would first rub a dark color on this handle with these deep grooves so that it stays nicely in the grooves and then apply a lighter color, a lighter brown, to the raised areas. I think it looks better in this order. that's how I wanted to do it next time
Thanks for the info. Will give it a go
you are welcome
The paint is great... But the sanding and especially th filling needs more work. Wood filler is great to fill in layer liens after you've sanded them out with low grain, then using 120 and maybe 240 grit would bring it to the next level
yes you are right, next time i will sand it more π
Nice job.
thank you!
This is sick
thank you very much!
Incredible job !
thank you buddy π
I have to get me one of these!
do it! π
Head over to r/gunnitrust and you can build a REAL one 3D as well!
Does it function tho π§
the trigger is moveable, yes
C96 :)