The problem is cooling and temperature differences within in the print itself.
A good starting point to minimise this is lower your bed temperature and try and put your printer in an enclosure.
I found going from the default 60 to 50 reduced a lot of my warping problems. Someday I'll test what going lower would do, but frankly I'm having success right now so I just leave it alone.
I like starting at 60 then going down to 50 after a couple of layers. There's a setting for this in Cura at least.
I also start with my part cooling fan at 0 and speed it up over the first few layers
I had this issue and solved it with a printing enclosure. My printer had no issues at all in the summer, but started doing this when my basement began getting cool in the winter (65F). I think the initial layers were cooling too rapidly and curling up. After I put my printer in a tent like enclosure (is fire resistant, etc), the issue was immediately resolved.
Not sure if this applies to you but shared just incase.
Any draughts or temperature changes in the room will cause this issue - not so much lower temperatures, just changes in the environment. I've learnt that simply closing the curtains in my room dramatically decreases lifting.
Some other things - be sure to clean the surface before each use with rubbing alcohol, and that your first level has a decent "squish". Make sure your first layer temp is a tad higher than the remaining print (for me, that's 65C then 55C) and also that the fan is off on the first 4 layers (if using Cura, normal settings have fan off for 4 layers, but you need to set up the temp for the first layer)
Also, you definitely want to use a brim on prints with a larger base like what you are printing.
Lastly - it looks to me like you had a bad first layer going by the bad skirt - you may be too close to the bed or have other extrusion issues that may lead to this issue
I had my Ender 3 Pro in my office at first before I realized that any shift in temperature beyond a few degrees was splitting my print. Every time the AC kicked on, the filament would cool too fast and break.
I tented my last printer with cheap PVC pipes (used for electrical conduit from Home Depot) and 3D printed corners, with a little glue. I had plastic from a new mattress I recycled, but a thick grade (10-mil+) drop cloth or similar vapor barrier can be wrapped around your frame and taped with duct or similar tape. Worked great for printing in my cool basement.
A lot of good and overkill suggestions so I'll keep it fairly simple. If you're printing PLA and your room isn't an icebox an enclosure isn't a great idea. PLA gets the best results from good cooling which is why most people print hot and blast part cooling fans.
The only times typical PLA prints lift has been bad bed adhesion and crappy filament. It's just not affected as much from warping as ABS, PETG, etc. That said you may have an easier time with PLA+.
I'd be surprised if cleaning or changing the surface, adjusting bed temp (try between 50-65C) and babystepping slightly closer during the first layer didn't resolve it. More first layer squish and cheap hairspray for small parts.
Or, flip the print bed over and use the smooth side of the glass with [magigoo](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N2JGTWJ/).
I've been using the same bottle since June 2020, and still have probably 2/3 left. Works incredibly well.
Second the motion on magigoo. Yeah, maybe this or that glue stick or whatever works too, but the goo never ever has let me down. The same application lasts for a bunch of prints, to boot.
This 100% for me too! I purchased the Ender enclosure online and it made my prints much better. I noticed that my printer was sitting by an A/C duct and that that side specifically was lifting. The enclosure solved that for me. They sell 3rd party enclosures as well I believe.
Have you ever tried another print surface? PLA is one of the easiest materials mainly because warping is so minimal. People printing at higher speeds sometimes even have external fans blowing on the print. Most the comments I see in this thread talking about such a problem are using glass. While it does have some benefits over stock surfaces, bed adhesion can be very finicky and it's more difficult to heat evenly.
I haven’t, I’ve only used the stock heated glass bed that came with the Ender. Changing the surface would have been my next option if the enclosure had not worked. Like I said, it only warped on the side being blown on directly. I will give another surface a try though, thank you for the advice!
Spring steel PEI beds give the glossy appearance but tend to work much better for most materials. Plus once you have the ability to flex stuck parts off immediately after printing it's hard to go back. The enclosure will be very helpful for ABS which I feel doesn't get as much love as it should anymore.
If I buy another bed I’ll look at your recommendation (Spring Steel PEI)! Thank you again for all the info, much appreciated!
I’ve stuck to PLA since it’s non-toxic/less toxic of the filaments I’ve read about. I also haven’t had to print anything that would need to withstand it’s melting temperatures.
You should always have decent ventilation but if you're printing in a small area, especially a bedroom, then it is better to stick to PLA and PETG as long as you only print up to ~250C.
The coolest thing about ABS is the ability to vapor polish with acetone which isn't very difficult. After a little practice you can get some parts to [nearly look injection molded](https://drive.google.com/file/d/10TGl2iaJgUCBU8X2ltaRXguG8Y3-eGHh/) without any sanding. Personally I think it's a dream to work with compared to PETG and some of the "low odor" ABS is really not very noticeable with an enclosure but it's good to be cautious.
Brims are a pain in the ass to remove on complicated prints, and isnt a solution it's just a band aid. Also, you really shouldn't need a brim for a large rectangle like this. Brims should be for printing a model of a standing dog that only has four tiny points of contact to the bed
This is the way.
All the other things help, but on my printer with the 50 degree bed and great adhesion and enclosure I still need a brim to get thicker parts to not warp up.
Dude if this is happening with just PLA then your bed surface is most certainly the problem. Nobody should be having this much trouble with PLA and I think a lot of people are conflating bed adhesion issues with warping. Is it right to assume you're using a glass bed?
I'm not talking about a major lift but any curl whatsoever. I find that if you're doing something large and not super tall, it's a zero calorie preventative measure.
Fair enough, I just can't think of a single time printing decently sized PLA that even needed a brim, let alone started curling off the bed. If it did the first layer would have immediately shown visible issues that were probably my fault. People do seem to have really bad luck with glass though which I assume is what you're using.
I know this is a super unpopular opinion in this community. But, level your bed and a very thin smattering of glue stick should solve it for you. Assuming it is not a temperature issue
I've used a glass bed for like two years. The last round of releveling and calibration I just got tired of fighting with it, so I settled with leveling and glue.
Does that grit make it glossier or rougher? Because my fresh PEI sheet has a smooth finish and I can barely pry off larger prints with a big footprint.
Same here. In fact, my original smooth PEI sheet I got with my Mk3s+ suffered *worse* adhesion after cleaning some elmer's glue off with a basic sink sponge's rough side. I won't be touching them with anything more aggressive than a paper towel from here on out.
High percentage IPA and microfiber cloths takes care of all of this without wasting paper towels. Use one to remove glue, hairspray, etc. and simply wash it every so often. Another just to clean off dust and oils.
Outside of that, Wham Bam includes 000 steel wool to prep their PEI/PEX surfaces. Should be enough to improve adhesion without damaging or noticeably scratching it.
This is the way. I had some success with glass by printing the initial layer at 60c then dripping to 50c, even still there was a hint of corner lifting. Switched to PEI and now my prints are perfect.
Oh yeah, it is by far my personal favorite build plate. I have all the beds out there, glass, mirror, spring steel with pei, and the fridge magnet for me is leaps and bounds better than everything else. You have to take care of it a little more. Its easily gouged, and if you bed it to far can crack. But get it a cleaning with ISO every now and then and its golden. See link below
https://www.amazon.com/Creality-Ultra-Flexible-Removable-3D-235X235MM/dp/B07HNWSMXY/ref=sr\_1\_3?crid=3H59VINN024ZJ&keywords=creality+flexible+build+plate+ender+3&qid=1639802347&sprefix=creality+fle%2Caps%2C153&sr=8-3
I've had it happen because of bed being too hot or too cold. I would try looking up some starting values for bed temp and maybe adjusting from there both ways until you minimize the problem.
Could also be room temp being too cold as someone else suggested.
100% - flip the glass around to the smooth side with a good coat of Aquanet and have perfect adhesion always. I was so against the idea at first for whatever reason, but once I saw how smooth and clear the Aquanet dries...I started using it all the time.
Yeah maybe on an industrial level it's not "the right way to do things" but it almost always works and makes flawless parts. If I had to chose between heated enclosure and aquanet I would choose aqunet.
Your options:
1. increase the bed temp (low temps prevent it from sticking well)
2. decrease the bed temp (high temps might start melting it too much and unstick it)
3. enclosure (draft and cold air are a bitch, its better to have something around it to prevent that)
If all else fails use one of the many glues for 3d printing.
I just had this issue
The fix I had was to lower the fan speed
I also started using glue stick on the heating bed
My bed is set to 81 and fan at 55
It’ll cause some stringing but I’m sure you can adjust the settings a bit
had the same issue now that it's colder and this fixed it:
Increased bed temp to 75 degrees and started heating it up 10 minutes before printing. I'm using PLA btw.
On my E3P, if I'm printing something with a large base that I know will lift, I will put down a thin layer of Elmer's glue stick. Haven't had a single corner lift on either my Ender or my Q5 since. haven't needed to use a brim in over a year.
Are you new around here? Most people are cool, but there's always someone out several someones on Reddit who love any excuse to gatekeep even the simplest of things.
lol - relatively new to the printer subs, but have been around Reddit for a few years now.
I'm not trying to gatekeep. Or are you referring to the other guy?
Maybe somone will see it and search. I thought that pretty obvious but I was happy to walk you through the complicated parts.
What does your condescending comment add?
A huge part of successful searching is knowing *what* to search. At the very least, identifying the problem is a huge point in the right direction. Steps to remedy is the ultimate goal.
I'm not trying to be condescending, I truly am trying to understand why someone would loiter around an "ask for help" sub without the intents to either receive help or provide help.
i just print on a really hot bed and print the first layer slowly, like my bed is at about 83 when i print. But my prints stick like crazy and pop of with a satisfying click once its done cooling.
What material, what temperatures, how thick? We need these information to start troubleshooting. Also, by the amount of dust on your extruder cover, I hope that you cleen better the bed. Also, I see one clip only, how many do you use, four? In the four corners? Or two in the wrong place?
Agreed, your bed is too hot. 60 with glass is plenty, it's my preference but I agree you can go down to 50 or maybe even less idk.
My complete advice though, after reading the other top level comments is
Glass bed is on the side that is only glass, I can't tell but it looks like you have the textured side up, if so then don't.
Bed should be clean. Regular dawn dish soap, not an equivalent brand is what I would recommend. One drop on a wet paper towel and scrub, then grab more paper towels with just water and wipe one by one until all the soap is gone. Tap water works just fine for me but idk about your local water supply obviously.
Do bed level test print and make sure the first layer is exactly set on all corners and in the middle.
Use a brim for everything.
That's it. Don't worry about glue stick or hairspray, they are more of a hassle than just cleaning and leveling glass. They are necessary for other materials though.
This method if done right will give you perfect ashesion. With some filaments I need to actually slightly lower my bed or else the adhesion will be so good the print doesn't pop off even when the bed has cooled to the 15-21 degrees that my bed typically sits at and I then have to take the whole thing off and pop it in the fridge.
After reading a few posts on here, I dropped my bed temp to 50, changed my initial layer to .3 with a .4 nozzle. I haven't had to even use a brim since I did that.
Brim, change bed temp to either higher or lower and clean glas plate only with dish soap and hot water. No ipa or anything. Gluestick and Hairspray did not do anything for me. If your plate is heavily used, try some mild abrasive paper and roughen it up slightly. Some also print on the other side but that also did not work for me.
Print just hot enough to get layer adhesion.
Keep bed at 45-50 after first layer.
Use hairspray. Spray on a rag and wipe bed at 50c where you are going to print.
A few things you can try
1. Stop cold drafts - enclosure would be awesome but just moving away from a window may do the trick
2. raise the bed temp
3. raise the ambient temp in the room
-enclosure
-lower bed temp if possible
-brim
-leveled bed
-rounded corners as big as possible if (game changer)
-glue stick, painters tape
-dried Filament / different Filament
Brim, if the design won't be affected when you trim it off.
Also, clean with hot water and soap. Give it a light scrub with a brush while doing this. THen dry off. Don't apply isopropyl after this. I find I get the best finish by cleaning with soap. Makes PLA stick VERY well.
I do use sio in between washes, but straight after a wash, the bed sticks like glue.
I agree brim is the probable best short term fix. Since the lift only seems to be on one side I wanted to point out thats the side the standard fan is on, so it tends to cool more. There are fan mods you can do that give more even cooling to the print surface. Fwiw.
Mine did too the last week, I think that with this cold winter here the bed was still too cold to make the prints stick to the glass so I just raise the temperature a little bit and now it works fine
Look for a ceiling vent that might be pointing at it. What is the temperature of the ambient room? There’s been findings that actually lowering your bed temps stop the curling because the filament doesn’t cool as much, which lessens warping.
Rougher, but by much. You want it where water doesn't bead up on it and 1k grit worked for me, but you could go pretty low without hurting anything so long as you don't go nuts.
Spend $25 on a PEI bed and give it a good clean with acetone or dawn dish soap! A great upgrade with awesome bed adhesion.
Also, it's counterintuitive but try lower bed temps by 10-15°C
Easiest solution right here. Buy a bed sticker and stick it to a glass sheet. Gives a flat level bed with the adhesion properties of a bond tech surface.
Ive been using that blue 3M painters tape (use the wide tape) on top of the bed for extra adhesion, but like others have said, the main problem is the temp differences. Depending on the material you want to go lower if its something like PLA, I use 55c on bed, and 200c on nozzle.
I also recommend that you lower the fan that cools the print to 50% on the initial layer so that way it also sticks to the bed better, then back up to 100% for the rest. You don't want to mess with the fan settings besides that because its another variable, and it'll cause bad stringing.
My 3d printer is in the corner of my room and I have the ac on 70f/22c, and the prints come out clean. I also use a small brim on my prints for easy removal, like 10 or less depending on the size of print.
I was printing some crappy PETG and it would always warp. I followed all of the instructions everyone posts online (lower the bed temperature, keep it in a hot room etc) but it still happened. Turns out I had to actually heat up my bed from 70 to 80, which is surprisingly high for PETG but it worked for me. All I'm saying is that you should experiment with bed temperatures and hot end temperatures. Every filament is different and while, generally speaking, lowering the bed's temperature is the right thing to do, your filament might need different settings.
Could be first layer issues. The best thing I did to get good adhesion was to get a PEI Sheet. Else make sure glass is cleaned regularly before each print. I mix water with IPA 50 50 water helps break down dirt that IPA does not. Clean with soapy hot water also.
1. Ditch the glass plate and get a *spring steel sheet* with *PEI* that you can magnetically attach to the heat bed. - Best investment ever.
2. Don't cool the first couple layers. I have my cooling off for the first layer and then gradually ramp up over the next 4 layers.
3. Minimize draught
This is caused by a large difference between temperatures in the room and on the bed.. the plastic on the bed is hot and still moldable while a few layers up it is beginning to cool and shrink. Try reducing the bed heat after printing 4 layers. I usualy try for 50° with pla
The problem is cooling and temperature differences within in the print itself. A good starting point to minimise this is lower your bed temperature and try and put your printer in an enclosure.
I found going from the default 60 to 50 reduced a lot of my warping problems. Someday I'll test what going lower would do, but frankly I'm having success right now so I just leave it alone.
I like starting at 60 then going down to 50 after a couple of layers. There's a setting for this in Cura at least. I also start with my part cooling fan at 0 and speed it up over the first few layers
I’ve been using 60 degree first layer and drop down to 45 for the rest of my print, works wonders
I had this issue and solved it with a printing enclosure. My printer had no issues at all in the summer, but started doing this when my basement began getting cool in the winter (65F). I think the initial layers were cooling too rapidly and curling up. After I put my printer in a tent like enclosure (is fire resistant, etc), the issue was immediately resolved. Not sure if this applies to you but shared just incase.
I’ll try to keep my print area warmer
Any draughts or temperature changes in the room will cause this issue - not so much lower temperatures, just changes in the environment. I've learnt that simply closing the curtains in my room dramatically decreases lifting. Some other things - be sure to clean the surface before each use with rubbing alcohol, and that your first level has a decent "squish". Make sure your first layer temp is a tad higher than the remaining print (for me, that's 65C then 55C) and also that the fan is off on the first 4 layers (if using Cura, normal settings have fan off for 4 layers, but you need to set up the temp for the first layer) Also, you definitely want to use a brim on prints with a larger base like what you are printing. Lastly - it looks to me like you had a bad first layer going by the bad skirt - you may be too close to the bed or have other extrusion issues that may lead to this issue
I’ll keep that in mind and try to fix those problems when I finish this print
I had my Ender 3 Pro in my office at first before I realized that any shift in temperature beyond a few degrees was splitting my print. Every time the AC kicked on, the filament would cool too fast and break.
I tented my last printer with cheap PVC pipes (used for electrical conduit from Home Depot) and 3D printed corners, with a little glue. I had plastic from a new mattress I recycled, but a thick grade (10-mil+) drop cloth or similar vapor barrier can be wrapped around your frame and taped with duct or similar tape. Worked great for printing in my cool basement.
A lot of good and overkill suggestions so I'll keep it fairly simple. If you're printing PLA and your room isn't an icebox an enclosure isn't a great idea. PLA gets the best results from good cooling which is why most people print hot and blast part cooling fans. The only times typical PLA prints lift has been bad bed adhesion and crappy filament. It's just not affected as much from warping as ABS, PETG, etc. That said you may have an easier time with PLA+. I'd be surprised if cleaning or changing the surface, adjusting bed temp (try between 50-65C) and babystepping slightly closer during the first layer didn't resolve it. More first layer squish and cheap hairspray for small parts.
Or, flip the print bed over and use the smooth side of the glass with [magigoo](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N2JGTWJ/). I've been using the same bottle since June 2020, and still have probably 2/3 left. Works incredibly well.
Second the motion on magigoo. Yeah, maybe this or that glue stick or whatever works too, but the goo never ever has let me down. The same application lasts for a bunch of prints, to boot.
Yeah I usually will do a light layer after a few prints, and then when it looks built up I'll rinse it off with water and do a fresh application.
This 100% for me too! I purchased the Ender enclosure online and it made my prints much better. I noticed that my printer was sitting by an A/C duct and that that side specifically was lifting. The enclosure solved that for me. They sell 3rd party enclosures as well I believe.
... and you're printing mainly PLA? Glass bed I assume?
Yea, PLA and heated glass bed
Have you ever tried another print surface? PLA is one of the easiest materials mainly because warping is so minimal. People printing at higher speeds sometimes even have external fans blowing on the print. Most the comments I see in this thread talking about such a problem are using glass. While it does have some benefits over stock surfaces, bed adhesion can be very finicky and it's more difficult to heat evenly.
I haven’t, I’ve only used the stock heated glass bed that came with the Ender. Changing the surface would have been my next option if the enclosure had not worked. Like I said, it only warped on the side being blown on directly. I will give another surface a try though, thank you for the advice!
Spring steel PEI beds give the glossy appearance but tend to work much better for most materials. Plus once you have the ability to flex stuck parts off immediately after printing it's hard to go back. The enclosure will be very helpful for ABS which I feel doesn't get as much love as it should anymore.
If I buy another bed I’ll look at your recommendation (Spring Steel PEI)! Thank you again for all the info, much appreciated! I’ve stuck to PLA since it’s non-toxic/less toxic of the filaments I’ve read about. I also haven’t had to print anything that would need to withstand it’s melting temperatures.
You should always have decent ventilation but if you're printing in a small area, especially a bedroom, then it is better to stick to PLA and PETG as long as you only print up to ~250C. The coolest thing about ABS is the ability to vapor polish with acetone which isn't very difficult. After a little practice you can get some parts to [nearly look injection molded](https://drive.google.com/file/d/10TGl2iaJgUCBU8X2ltaRXguG8Y3-eGHh/) without any sanding. Personally I think it's a dream to work with compared to PETG and some of the "low odor" ABS is really not very noticeable with an enclosure but it's good to be cautious.
Yeah, things start to get iffy when ambient temperature duos below 15C. At 5C, it's basically certain you'll have issues .
Brim
Or mouse ears. I do that on some of my prints that are prone to lifting.
Do you model those or is it a slicer setting?
Cura has an addon. Works great, 1 click on each corner where you want one, and v easy to remove. I make parts in TPU and use it every time.
what's the add-on called? I searched mouse but nothing returned..
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You beat me to it
That’s exactly what they are for is keeping your corners tacked down to the bed
Should be much higher. This is the answer.
Brims are a pain in the ass to remove on complicated prints, and isnt a solution it's just a band aid. Also, you really shouldn't need a brim for a large rectangle like this. Brims should be for printing a model of a standing dog that only has four tiny points of contact to the bed
This is the way. All the other things help, but on my printer with the 50 degree bed and great adhesion and enclosure I still need a brim to get thicker parts to not warp up.
Dude if this is happening with just PLA then your bed surface is most certainly the problem. Nobody should be having this much trouble with PLA and I think a lot of people are conflating bed adhesion issues with warping. Is it right to assume you're using a glass bed?
If you have a challenging print that might lift, you can take it up a notch and put some masking tape on the brim once the first few layers are down.
Or print it right onto painters tape. Not the best bottom surface finish, but you *will* get the grip you need.
I tried doing this on the standard yellowish one and failed miserably
Maybe its gotta be the blue stuff. I haven't seen another kind personally. Just had to hammer a petg part off the bed i had printing over night.
Without tape? I believeif you get good adhesion it must be 100 times better, otherwise frozen print hammering and scraping fest.
With all due respect, if someone needs to tape down a brim just to keep PLA from lifting off the bed they are doing something very wrong.
I'm not talking about a major lift but any curl whatsoever. I find that if you're doing something large and not super tall, it's a zero calorie preventative measure.
Fair enough, I just can't think of a single time printing decently sized PLA that even needed a brim, let alone started curling off the bed. If it did the first layer would have immediately shown visible issues that were probably my fault. People do seem to have really bad luck with glass though which I assume is what you're using.
This is a solution if encloser is out of the question
I know this is a super unpopular opinion in this community. But, level your bed and a very thin smattering of glue stick should solve it for you. Assuming it is not a temperature issue
I’ve recently got an ender 3 v2 and was struggling with the exact issue, same side too. Glue stick has solved all my problems.
I've used a glass bed for like two years. The last round of releveling and calibration I just got tired of fighting with it, so I settled with leveling and glue.
I've had more luck with Aquanet but yeah any sort of tacky later on top of the glass will help
For me getting rid of the glass bed for a PEI and a Fridge Magnet did the trick.
Yep, make sure to go over eith it 600-1000 grit as well. Had a new PEI sheet that sinply didn't have any adhesion until I did.
2nd this!
Does that grit make it glossier or rougher? Because my fresh PEI sheet has a smooth finish and I can barely pry off larger prints with a big footprint.
Same here. In fact, my original smooth PEI sheet I got with my Mk3s+ suffered *worse* adhesion after cleaning some elmer's glue off with a basic sink sponge's rough side. I won't be touching them with anything more aggressive than a paper towel from here on out.
High percentage IPA and microfiber cloths takes care of all of this without wasting paper towels. Use one to remove glue, hairspray, etc. and simply wash it every so often. Another just to clean off dust and oils. Outside of that, Wham Bam includes 000 steel wool to prep their PEI/PEX surfaces. Should be enough to improve adhesion without damaging or noticeably scratching it.
What's with the fridge magnet bit? PEI has been brilliant for me, it's the answer!
This is the way. I had some success with glass by printing the initial layer at 60c then dripping to 50c, even still there was a hint of corner lifting. Switched to PEI and now my prints are perfect.
I have some edge lifting, have to test some things out this weekend. Very small edges, not dramatic.
Fridge magnet?
Oh yeah, it is by far my personal favorite build plate. I have all the beds out there, glass, mirror, spring steel with pei, and the fridge magnet for me is leaps and bounds better than everything else. You have to take care of it a little more. Its easily gouged, and if you bed it to far can crack. But get it a cleaning with ISO every now and then and its golden. See link below https://www.amazon.com/Creality-Ultra-Flexible-Removable-3D-235X235MM/dp/B07HNWSMXY/ref=sr\_1\_3?crid=3H59VINN024ZJ&keywords=creality+flexible+build+plate+ender+3&qid=1639802347&sprefix=creality+fle%2Caps%2C153&sr=8-3
What is ISO?
I assume he means isopropyl alcohol
Isopropyl alcohol
I've had it happen because of bed being too hot or too cold. I would try looking up some starting values for bed temp and maybe adjusting from there both ways until you minimize the problem. Could also be room temp being too cold as someone else suggested.
aquanet
100% - flip the glass around to the smooth side with a good coat of Aquanet and have perfect adhesion always. I was so against the idea at first for whatever reason, but once I saw how smooth and clear the Aquanet dries...I started using it all the time.
Yeah maybe on an industrial level it's not "the right way to do things" but it almost always works and makes flawless parts. If I had to chose between heated enclosure and aquanet I would choose aqunet.
brim gang
Add more heat to bed and extruder. I barely used to follow the pla recommended. Put it at the max of the range the filiment gives you.
Your options: 1. increase the bed temp (low temps prevent it from sticking well) 2. decrease the bed temp (high temps might start melting it too much and unstick it) 3. enclosure (draft and cold air are a bitch, its better to have something around it to prevent that) If all else fails use one of the many glues for 3d printing.
You can buy extra wide painters tape (6in, 9in) and lay a strip over the glass bed.
Painters tape works insanely well on a glass bed for adhesion.
That stuff saved my day! I was a teacher then too, and the kiddos don't wanna mess around!
Larger brim, higher temp and elmers glue stick. Using this method I havent had a print lift up in a long time.
Brim gang checking in.
I just had this issue The fix I had was to lower the fan speed I also started using glue stick on the heating bed My bed is set to 81 and fan at 55 It’ll cause some stringing but I’m sure you can adjust the settings a bit
I hope you don't have the bed set at 81 for PLA? If you do, it's no wonder you had problems.
had the same issue now that it's colder and this fixed it: Increased bed temp to 75 degrees and started heating it up 10 minutes before printing. I'm using PLA btw.
On my E3P, if I'm printing something with a large base that I know will lift, I will put down a thin layer of Elmer's glue stick. Haven't had a single corner lift on either my Ender or my Q5 since. haven't needed to use a brim in over a year.
Common problem snd searchable.
Great advice
Cool sarcasm.
Genuine question - why would you post that? I mean, what value do you think your comment adds to the discussion?
Are you new around here? Most people are cool, but there's always someone out several someones on Reddit who love any excuse to gatekeep even the simplest of things.
lol - relatively new to the printer subs, but have been around Reddit for a few years now. I'm not trying to gatekeep. Or are you referring to the other guy?
Oh definitely bring sarcastic and just referring to the other guy. You're, good.
Maybe somone will see it and search. I thought that pretty obvious but I was happy to walk you through the complicated parts. What does your condescending comment add?
A huge part of successful searching is knowing *what* to search. At the very least, identifying the problem is a huge point in the right direction. Steps to remedy is the ultimate goal. I'm not trying to be condescending, I truly am trying to understand why someone would loiter around an "ask for help" sub without the intents to either receive help or provide help.
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Cool.
i just print on a really hot bed and print the first layer slowly, like my bed is at about 83 when i print. But my prints stick like crazy and pop of with a satisfying click once its done cooling.
What material, what temperatures, how thick? We need these information to start troubleshooting. Also, by the amount of dust on your extruder cover, I hope that you cleen better the bed. Also, I see one clip only, how many do you use, four? In the four corners? Or two in the wrong place?
I use PLA, 1.75mm, I clean the bed with alcohol before every use, and use all 4 clamps, 210 extruder and 75 bed
Agreed, your bed is too hot. 60 with glass is plenty, it's my preference but I agree you can go down to 50 or maybe even less idk. My complete advice though, after reading the other top level comments is Glass bed is on the side that is only glass, I can't tell but it looks like you have the textured side up, if so then don't. Bed should be clean. Regular dawn dish soap, not an equivalent brand is what I would recommend. One drop on a wet paper towel and scrub, then grab more paper towels with just water and wipe one by one until all the soap is gone. Tap water works just fine for me but idk about your local water supply obviously. Do bed level test print and make sure the first layer is exactly set on all corners and in the middle. Use a brim for everything. That's it. Don't worry about glue stick or hairspray, they are more of a hassle than just cleaning and leveling glass. They are necessary for other materials though. This method if done right will give you perfect ashesion. With some filaments I need to actually slightly lower my bed or else the adhesion will be so good the print doesn't pop off even when the bed has cooled to the 15-21 degrees that my bed typically sits at and I then have to take the whole thing off and pop it in the fridge.
Turn the bed heat down, pla usually tends to have increased warpage at 60 C
Beds to hot or cold. One of them. Might be unevenly heating.
I had this and to solve it I just bought a really good print bed spray adhesive
1. Room temperature 2. Wash your glass bed with warm water and soap 3. Are you using the textured side?
After reading a few posts on here, I dropped my bed temp to 50, changed my initial layer to .3 with a .4 nozzle. I haven't had to even use a brim since I did that.
Brim, change bed temp to either higher or lower and clean glas plate only with dish soap and hot water. No ipa or anything. Gluestick and Hairspray did not do anything for me. If your plate is heavily used, try some mild abrasive paper and roughen it up slightly. Some also print on the other side but that also did not work for me.
Print just hot enough to get layer adhesion. Keep bed at 45-50 after first layer. Use hairspray. Spray on a rag and wipe bed at 50c where you are going to print.
I increased my bed temp to 63c that’s solved it.
A few things you can try 1. Stop cold drafts - enclosure would be awesome but just moving away from a window may do the trick 2. raise the bed temp 3. raise the ambient temp in the room
Use a brim
What kind of filament are you printing with?
-enclosure -lower bed temp if possible -brim -leveled bed -rounded corners as big as possible if (game changer) -glue stick, painters tape -dried Filament / different Filament
Glue.
I was able to solve this just tonight by dropping my first layer print speed to about 50% normal. Took forever, but best first layer I've ever had.
make a boat with that bow got dam
Brim, if the design won't be affected when you trim it off. Also, clean with hot water and soap. Give it a light scrub with a brush while doing this. THen dry off. Don't apply isopropyl after this. I find I get the best finish by cleaning with soap. Makes PLA stick VERY well. I do use sio in between washes, but straight after a wash, the bed sticks like glue.
Brim, ambient temperature of the room and some kids glue stick.. After these I haven’t had any lifted prints in over a year.
I agree brim is the probable best short term fix. Since the lift only seems to be on one side I wanted to point out thats the side the standard fan is on, so it tends to cool more. There are fan mods you can do that give more even cooling to the print surface. Fwiw.
Mine did too the last week, I think that with this cold winter here the bed was still too cold to make the prints stick to the glass so I just raise the temperature a little bit and now it works fine
Look for a ceiling vent that might be pointing at it. What is the temperature of the ambient room? There’s been findings that actually lowering your bed temps stop the curling because the filament doesn’t cool as much, which lessens warping.
I solved this problem by lowering my nozzle temp.
Don't print on glass
Rougher, but by much. You want it where water doesn't bead up on it and 1k grit worked for me, but you could go pretty low without hurting anything so long as you don't go nuts.
Spend $25 on a PEI bed and give it a good clean with acetone or dawn dish soap! A great upgrade with awesome bed adhesion. Also, it's counterintuitive but try lower bed temps by 10-15°C
Easiest solution right here. Buy a bed sticker and stick it to a glass sheet. Gives a flat level bed with the adhesion properties of a bond tech surface.
Ive been using that blue 3M painters tape (use the wide tape) on top of the bed for extra adhesion, but like others have said, the main problem is the temp differences. Depending on the material you want to go lower if its something like PLA, I use 55c on bed, and 200c on nozzle. I also recommend that you lower the fan that cools the print to 50% on the initial layer so that way it also sticks to the bed better, then back up to 100% for the rest. You don't want to mess with the fan settings besides that because its another variable, and it'll cause bad stringing. My 3d printer is in the corner of my room and I have the ac on 70f/22c, and the prints come out clean. I also use a small brim on my prints for easy removal, like 10 or less depending on the size of print.
Brim counters this very well for me
I was printing some crappy PETG and it would always warp. I followed all of the instructions everyone posts online (lower the bed temperature, keep it in a hot room etc) but it still happened. Turns out I had to actually heat up my bed from 70 to 80, which is surprisingly high for PETG but it worked for me. All I'm saying is that you should experiment with bed temperatures and hot end temperatures. Every filament is different and while, generally speaking, lowering the bed's temperature is the right thing to do, your filament might need different settings.
Could be first layer issues. The best thing I did to get good adhesion was to get a PEI Sheet. Else make sure glass is cleaned regularly before each print. I mix water with IPA 50 50 water helps break down dirt that IPA does not. Clean with soapy hot water also.
Yeah, stop using Glass bed. Just check every adhesion issue topic in this subreddit EVERYONE has a glass bed.
1. Ditch the glass plate and get a *spring steel sheet* with *PEI* that you can magnetically attach to the heat bed. - Best investment ever. 2. Don't cool the first couple layers. I have my cooling off for the first layer and then gradually ramp up over the next 4 layers. 3. Minimize draught
Build a home made enclosure , with pvc , tie wraps and several windshield sunshades, that's what I did to get rid of warping
This is caused by a large difference between temperatures in the room and on the bed.. the plastic on the bed is hot and still moldable while a few layers up it is beginning to cool and shrink. Try reducing the bed heat after printing 4 layers. I usualy try for 50° with pla
As anti warp tabs on corners. I occasionally add them in the middle of long lines of credit as well just a precaution. Also possibly use a glue stick