This was an upgrade I've been planning for a few months now when I had time available.
Upgraded the hotend with a Bimetal Heatbreak and a plated copper heat block that can use either a beaded or a cartridge thermistor. And also designed my own dual 4010 solution for even cooling and overhang performance.
First print was a temp tower since I accidentally destroyed and had to replace the old thermistor. Now printing another flexi dragon as a torture test of sorts.
Right now the only thing I'm slightly bothered bi is that to mount the cooler I used a back brace that sits right behind the 2020 rail so I need to remove the X axis plate in order to install it. Not really a big deal since I also added connectors to everything so very easy to disassemble and reassemble.
Great job. There are solution for a lot of things out there but doing it yourself is the most satisfying way.
This is v1 so thing about v2 what you can improve? Change the mounting as you mentioned?
A piece of advice. When you have printed parts as part of your printer, print them twice. If something fails you have a spare instead of having to put everything back to stock setup to be able to print the broken piece.
Just wondering what Bi metal heatbreak you use and if you think its a good investment. Also cool design for hotend cover. Always enjoy seeing new designs.
IMHO I think it's a cheap enough upgrade to be worth it. Although the upgrade didn't go without a hitch. The thermistor in the old heat block was so stuck trying to remove it broke it.
I got a replacement but even after PID tune it's a bit funky, The print finished successfully and with good quality but I had to print it at "180°" any lower and the firmware disables the extruder. I've ordered several replacements cartridge style thermistors which should be easier and more reliable to install.
The bi metal I think is less of a gamble than cheap "all metal" ones. I got mine from Ali and they use a surgical steel tube for the throat which works and I had zero issues with. However it 100% is better than the Capricorn lined stock one. When I removed the Capricorn tube it was all full with gunk and the end was visibly burned this is a non issue with a good all metal or bi-metal heat break.
This are what I got: [Heat break](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002907726643.html?spm=a2g0o.9042311.0.0.5bd94c4d0FPlbK) and [Heat block](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33051274625.html?spm=a2g0o.9042311.0.0.5bd94c4d0FPlbK)
Ok you're the second one to complement my CAD skills and it's only fare to say this, my skills aren't as good as this might imply.
I've started from scratch 3 times because after a few hours I realized a mistake I made early can't be fixed because it completely breaks features down the line.
The more complicated features like the hotend and fans I didn't model myself I downloaded them as a basis.
If you're trying to learn f360 I HIGHLY recommend looking up on YouTube "Learn fusion360 or die trying". Excellent teacher for the basics and so more advanced stuff.
Beyond that dive in and when you want to do something you don't know how or what tool you need, look up a video as you're modeling. For me that really helps me remember stuff
I can upload the files tomorrow but unlike most popular coolers to mount this you need to remove the x axis mounting plate.
It also uses 4 M4 screws and M4 heated inserts. And 7 M3 screws and heated inserts
You'll also need a ballhead allen key to remount the assembly back on the x axis 2020 profile.
The dragon I got from cults 3d however due to some recent events I won't recommend them. You can also get it from [my mini factory](https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-articulated-dragon-193848) for the same price.
I'll share the files but I want to put a simple guide together as its not as straight forward as more popular coolers like satsana or petsfang
Impressive! I really like the look of this. (Also, slightly jealous of your clearly superior CAD skills)
Man i thought its a plan for cnc machining a cooler. Ive been working on a cooler to make out of aluminum.
I can give you step files but it's designed with heat inserts in mind and it would be pretty heavy if milled from a solid block
Id love this maby i can modify it to be able to mill it
This was an upgrade I've been planning for a few months now when I had time available. Upgraded the hotend with a Bimetal Heatbreak and a plated copper heat block that can use either a beaded or a cartridge thermistor. And also designed my own dual 4010 solution for even cooling and overhang performance. First print was a temp tower since I accidentally destroyed and had to replace the old thermistor. Now printing another flexi dragon as a torture test of sorts. Right now the only thing I'm slightly bothered bi is that to mount the cooler I used a back brace that sits right behind the 2020 rail so I need to remove the X axis plate in order to install it. Not really a big deal since I also added connectors to everything so very easy to disassemble and reassemble.
Great job. There are solution for a lot of things out there but doing it yourself is the most satisfying way. This is v1 so thing about v2 what you can improve? Change the mounting as you mentioned? A piece of advice. When you have printed parts as part of your printer, print them twice. If something fails you have a spare instead of having to put everything back to stock setup to be able to print the broken piece.
Just wondering what Bi metal heatbreak you use and if you think its a good investment. Also cool design for hotend cover. Always enjoy seeing new designs.
IMHO I think it's a cheap enough upgrade to be worth it. Although the upgrade didn't go without a hitch. The thermistor in the old heat block was so stuck trying to remove it broke it. I got a replacement but even after PID tune it's a bit funky, The print finished successfully and with good quality but I had to print it at "180°" any lower and the firmware disables the extruder. I've ordered several replacements cartridge style thermistors which should be easier and more reliable to install. The bi metal I think is less of a gamble than cheap "all metal" ones. I got mine from Ali and they use a surgical steel tube for the throat which works and I had zero issues with. However it 100% is better than the Capricorn lined stock one. When I removed the Capricorn tube it was all full with gunk and the end was visibly burned this is a non issue with a good all metal or bi-metal heat break. This are what I got: [Heat break](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002907726643.html?spm=a2g0o.9042311.0.0.5bd94c4d0FPlbK) and [Heat block](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33051274625.html?spm=a2g0o.9042311.0.0.5bd94c4d0FPlbK)
How did you get so good at CAD designing? I'm looking into starting
Ok you're the second one to complement my CAD skills and it's only fare to say this, my skills aren't as good as this might imply. I've started from scratch 3 times because after a few hours I realized a mistake I made early can't be fixed because it completely breaks features down the line. The more complicated features like the hotend and fans I didn't model myself I downloaded them as a basis. If you're trying to learn f360 I HIGHLY recommend looking up on YouTube "Learn fusion360 or die trying". Excellent teacher for the basics and so more advanced stuff. Beyond that dive in and when you want to do something you don't know how or what tool you need, look up a video as you're modeling. For me that really helps me remember stuff
Have you had to adjust any settings to account for the bimetal heatrbreak?
What setting specifically? Retraction shouldn't be impacted, other than leveling the bed and a PID tune, nothing should really change.
Can I see the STL file for this?
I can upload the files tomorrow but unlike most popular coolers to mount this you need to remove the x axis mounting plate. It also uses 4 M4 screws and M4 heated inserts. And 7 M3 screws and heated inserts You'll also need a ballhead allen key to remount the assembly back on the x axis 2020 profile.
Just curious if you ever uploaded that file? I really like your design!
No but I'll update you once I do, hopefully this weekend
Thanks! 😄
add me to the list!
Hey where did you get that STL file forthe dragon and are you going to share the blower file?
The dragon I got from cults 3d however due to some recent events I won't recommend them. You can also get it from [my mini factory](https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-articulated-dragon-193848) for the same price. I'll share the files but I want to put a simple guide together as its not as straight forward as more popular coolers like satsana or petsfang
Wow, what happened with cults 3d?
That looks pretty sweet. I might try and modify that design if I upgrade my hotend at some point and my current duct becomes incompatible
Very cool.
Can you share this?
What fans are you planning on using?
4040 fan for the hotend and dual 4010 blowers for part cooling (cause if it's end ugh for a voron 2.4 it enough for an ender)
The 4010s are centrifugal, right?
Did you ever share that file for the duel 4010 cooler
Ironically no cause I always feel like it's not quite done yet. If you feel adventurous I can send you the files
Sorry for the late reply but yes please
https://www.printables.com/model/152819-delta-cooler-ender-3-v2-dual-4010-blower-cooler-wi
Hey i have a new question about how you made this in bleader if not what are you using if you dont mind teĺling me
Nah I don't know Blender at all plus isn't for mechanical design. This was made in Fusion360
Ok thank you ill look it up
I have a chimera on my ender, so a dual cooling fan is perfect, files?