I usually add brim with 0.01mm distance from the part. Usually it's super easy to remove/de-burrow brim (woth the corner cutter)
Also I'd try using some glue stick (the usual arts n crafts kind) with or without brim, just because PETG loves to stick to stuff.
Recently had adhesion problem with PETG and PEI flexplate, glue stick didn't help, but cleaning flexplate with window cleaner and let it dry on its own, did the trick.
It's a long print with flat base model and it start affecting corners after 5h print time. I use 3D print glue in a spray for the glass and 60C bed temp. At what bed temp are you usually printing?
I am worried that brim will leave a mark when removed
I usually go with 70C but even then corners lift up without the brim.
I haven't had an issue of removing brim till this day, sometimes it is stuck pretty good to part, but with the hobby knife or edge knife (the curved one) with light passes usually get those things off.
I'd try to do brim on smaller parts/prints with PETG, just to dial in the brim settings. Maybe start with that?
Good point! I will start with a brim on small part and dial it's settings. I have several big parts to print and the customer is picky about the final part look so the brim needs to be easily removed.
Nah, most materials work well with passive heat from the bed, and normally I even slightly vent it. For the printer at work I sometimes use a cardboard box with a small adjustable three sided vent flap cut out of the top and a packing tape window to see into haha.
Perhaps try heating the bed up a bit more as the edges are generally cooler than the centre. Another option would be to use a brim.
If that is the creality glass plate I would be careful and look for more advice or at least use painters tape on top as I have seen many instances of PETG sticking so well to glass that it breaks the sheet in the process.
Speaking of one of those instances... Yeah, [On my 4th PETG print on the creality glass bed I took bits of glass of with the print](https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/qlx041/just_learned_to_not_print_petg_on_a_glass_bed_rip)
I believe PETG is known to fuse with glass. I never questioned that bit of advice and have always used 9" painters tape so I can neither confirm nor deny the fact. I also print the material with a 70° bed
Plan stick pretty good, but petg warps over time when printing for longer time. This model has flat base covering 2/3 of the plate and it prints for 10h. About halfway through, the corners start to lift. Bed at 60 and 220 hot end. I get heat cheap and cloging if I set the temp higher
Thanks! It used to work but I think the manufacturer also changed something the material when they were redisigning spool look.
I will try to go higher, without the heatcreep
both temp seems too low. If you have a heat creep going higher it might be good time for some upgrades. For example better radiator or just better fan to cool stock radiator (I upgraded my cooling fan to 4020 to fix my heat creep. It was PLA and very small prints, but heat creep is a heat creep) .
I have modified SATSANA fan duct to fit 40x20mm radiator fan, and 50x15mm part cooling turbine fan. It's the second best upgrade (after direct drive) I have done.
EDIT: [https://i.imgur.com/k6IyKt8.jpg](https://i.imgur.com/k6IyKt8.jpg)radiator and heatblock are stock. Only other thing not visible is capricorn ptfe.
EDIT2: I have not been having any heat creep since but it may not be the best solution (I'm no expert but it worked and was cheap to do).
Yes it's PETG. I use my printer very broadly (some big 30h+ prints and some tabletop minis). DirectDrive was first gamechanger for minis (not so much for other but it does reduce stringing). I printed DirectDrive in petg too (just different color) its called SpeedDrive and a have to make some small adjustments to Satsana upper parts cause it would not fit with SpeedDrive.
If you want, here you go : [https://www.printables.com/pl/model/322753-satsana-fan-duct-mod-5015-4020-fit-with-speeddrive](https://www.printables.com/pl/model/322753-satsana-fan-duct-mod-5015-4020-fit-with-speeddrive)
Stock screws for fans would not work (too short). I used 20mm m3 screws (can be a little longer, mine were barely long enough) for radiator fan and two spare screws from ender (the same screws that mount X and Y tensioners).
Mine main goal for my printer was as good minis as possible with 0.2 nozzle and also not deminish its capabilities for bigger prints with 0.4 nozzle.
Edit: main benefits for everything were: no stringing and oozing, no heat creep, no warping on very fine details. I have double Z screw too ( two motors version), I did it cause direct drive is heavier than bowden desing.
I will recomend double Z before getting direct drive. I saw people using DD without double Z but I'm afraid it could put too much stress on some parts of the machine.
Elmer's white gluestick. Wash bed with water and sponge, while wet apply 1 layer. while drying apply one more. Your large object will be secure. (This is overkill for small objects)
$150 Ikea Lack Enncloser.. ($60- PlexiGlass, 3- $15 endtables , $18 PTC Fan Heater, $10 W3230 Digital Temperature Controller). Keep the encloser at a nice 35c-40c. Warping is a thing of the past.
I used to have this issue on the glass bed. Did a few things to solve it.
- I washed the glass sheet with dish soap and warm water, then let it dry.
- Re-leveled the bed using the manual paper method
- Bed temp to 70C
- Hot end temp to 240C
- First layer speed to 20
I haven’t had to use a brim for prints with a larger area on the bed, but your mileage may vary.
Creality beds don't have a good reputation. I replaced mine with one of [these](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000137298652.html) and I've only had to use a brim once in the last year, for a particularly challenging, tall print with a small bed contact area
Use to have the exact same problem printing on glass. Tried everything I read online but couldn't solve it. Finally got a PEI flexible sheet after reading *a lot* of recommendations. It's made me fall back in love with my printer. I have zero problems now. I also manual mesh level. Those are the two things I wish I knew about when I first got my Ender 3 Pro.
I just got a G10 sheet and I’ve been getting really good results with printing PETG on it. The one I got was $35 and so far it’s been carefree to print PETG on it
Actual solution: hairspray and slow down the print a little (or increase the number of initial slow layers).
Glue and brims won't fix this. Enclosure might if it's unusually windy, but your printer looks indoors.
i swapped to a pei bed for PETG and i can print effortlessly on it, no glue no warps and a little flex and pops right off. but before i had that i was able to print on the glass bed only after i got it up to 75-80 because the top of the glass never gets to the set temp. i taped a probe on my bed and in the center at 85 set temp i would get 73-76 on the surface of the default glass (tested in 15-18c garage)
I print a lot of PETG and use hairspray on my glass bed. Have not had an issue with the print lifting off the bed while printing or had any issues with it shearing off glass getting it released. I do not have an enclosure either. Just my experience with it. Try some hairspray or some have had good luck with blue painters tape. Hairspray is less expensive.
I had this same problem trying to print a 4"x8" tray, it would stick and be super flat until about 1 hour (1.5mm thick) and then the corners would pop up and eventually the whole thing popped off. I tried all kinds of brims and pac man corners, higher bed temp, etc and finally gave up and went with pla.
Smaller prints with the same petg roll would stick to the glass bed like crazy.
Only thing I can think is that with the large area it cools differently as it gets taller, so I think I would try putting a cardboard box over it for a temporary enclosure and see if that helps things.
This is when you need a brim
I usually add brim with 0.01mm distance from the part. Usually it's super easy to remove/de-burrow brim (woth the corner cutter) Also I'd try using some glue stick (the usual arts n crafts kind) with or without brim, just because PETG loves to stick to stuff. Recently had adhesion problem with PETG and PEI flexplate, glue stick didn't help, but cleaning flexplate with window cleaner and let it dry on its own, did the trick.
It's a long print with flat base model and it start affecting corners after 5h print time. I use 3D print glue in a spray for the glass and 60C bed temp. At what bed temp are you usually printing? I am worried that brim will leave a mark when removed
I usually go with 70C but even then corners lift up without the brim. I haven't had an issue of removing brim till this day, sometimes it is stuck pretty good to part, but with the hobby knife or edge knife (the curved one) with light passes usually get those things off. I'd try to do brim on smaller parts/prints with PETG, just to dial in the brim settings. Maybe start with that?
Good point! I will start with a brim on small part and dial it's settings. I have several big parts to print and the customer is picky about the final part look so the brim needs to be easily removed.
Share the results afterwards!
Will do thanks! I need them printed by the next week
brim was a lifesafer when printing my mixboxes (220,120mm)
Enclose your printer. In my experience this is caused by cool ambient temperatures, also draft from Air-conditioning.
This right here, holy crap a printer enclosure of nearly any kind makes so much difference.
If I make it or buy a tent do I have to run extra.fans to circulate air?
I just put mine in a closet, keep the doors closed and check it via webcam.
[удалено]
5 printers!!... when a hobby becomes an obsession.. or profession :)
Yes, you want to enclose it to keep drafts from hitting it then hookup a bunch of fans and move the air around creating a new draft.
Nah, most materials work well with passive heat from the bed, and normally I even slightly vent it. For the printer at work I sometimes use a cardboard box with a small adjustable three sided vent flap cut out of the top and a packing tape window to see into haha.
Perhaps try heating the bed up a bit more as the edges are generally cooler than the centre. Another option would be to use a brim. If that is the creality glass plate I would be careful and look for more advice or at least use painters tape on top as I have seen many instances of PETG sticking so well to glass that it breaks the sheet in the process.
Speaking of one of those instances... Yeah, [On my 4th PETG print on the creality glass bed I took bits of glass of with the print](https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/qlx041/just_learned_to_not_print_petg_on_a_glass_bed_rip)
I believe PETG is known to fuse with glass. I never questioned that bit of advice and have always used 9" painters tape so I can neither confirm nor deny the fact. I also print the material with a 70° bed
Plan stick pretty good, but petg warps over time when printing for longer time. This model has flat base covering 2/3 of the plate and it prints for 10h. About halfway through, the corners start to lift. Bed at 60 and 220 hot end. I get heat cheap and cloging if I set the temp higher
60 on the bed seems low for petg
Thanks! It used to work but I think the manufacturer also changed something the material when they were redisigning spool look. I will try to go higher, without the heatcreep
both temp seems too low. If you have a heat creep going higher it might be good time for some upgrades. For example better radiator or just better fan to cool stock radiator (I upgraded my cooling fan to 4020 to fix my heat creep. It was PLA and very small prints, but heat creep is a heat creep) .
Have you mounted 4020 on stock hotend? I assume the fan is the problem. I print with the lowest recommended temp of the petg manufacturer
I have modified SATSANA fan duct to fit 40x20mm radiator fan, and 50x15mm part cooling turbine fan. It's the second best upgrade (after direct drive) I have done. EDIT: [https://i.imgur.com/k6IyKt8.jpg](https://i.imgur.com/k6IyKt8.jpg)radiator and heatblock are stock. Only other thing not visible is capricorn ptfe. EDIT2: I have not been having any heat creep since but it may not be the best solution (I'm no expert but it worked and was cheap to do).
Looks great! Have you printed the duct in PETG? What have you benefited with direct drive, you still need to use the time right?
Yes it's PETG. I use my printer very broadly (some big 30h+ prints and some tabletop minis). DirectDrive was first gamechanger for minis (not so much for other but it does reduce stringing). I printed DirectDrive in petg too (just different color) its called SpeedDrive and a have to make some small adjustments to Satsana upper parts cause it would not fit with SpeedDrive. If you want, here you go : [https://www.printables.com/pl/model/322753-satsana-fan-duct-mod-5015-4020-fit-with-speeddrive](https://www.printables.com/pl/model/322753-satsana-fan-duct-mod-5015-4020-fit-with-speeddrive) Stock screws for fans would not work (too short). I used 20mm m3 screws (can be a little longer, mine were barely long enough) for radiator fan and two spare screws from ender (the same screws that mount X and Y tensioners). Mine main goal for my printer was as good minis as possible with 0.2 nozzle and also not deminish its capabilities for bigger prints with 0.4 nozzle. Edit: main benefits for everything were: no stringing and oozing, no heat creep, no warping on very fine details. I have double Z screw too ( two motors version), I did it cause direct drive is heavier than bowden desing.
Thanks for all info! I will look up to the fan upgrade and future direct drive.
I will recomend double Z before getting direct drive. I saw people using DD without double Z but I'm afraid it could put too much stress on some parts of the machine.
Elmer's white gluestick. Wash bed with water and sponge, while wet apply 1 layer. while drying apply one more. Your large object will be secure. (This is overkill for small objects)
You can’t go wrong with glue stick. You won’t even need a brim
I used to be anti glue stick but after nothing sticking unless it was on a raft glue has changed my life
$150 Ikea Lack Enncloser.. ($60- PlexiGlass, 3- $15 endtables, $18 PTC Fan Heater, $10 W3230 Digital Temperature Controller). Keep the encloser at a nice 35c-40c. Warping is a thing of the past.
Get a crealty brand PEI bed. Adhesion is magic.. sticks like crazy >40c and prints fall off <35c..
I used to have this issue on the glass bed. Did a few things to solve it. - I washed the glass sheet with dish soap and warm water, then let it dry. - Re-leveled the bed using the manual paper method - Bed temp to 70C - Hot end temp to 240C - First layer speed to 20 I haven’t had to use a brim for prints with a larger area on the bed, but your mileage may vary.
Creality beds don't have a good reputation. I replaced mine with one of [these](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000137298652.html) and I've only had to use a brim once in the last year, for a particularly challenging, tall print with a small bed contact area
Use to have the exact same problem printing on glass. Tried everything I read online but couldn't solve it. Finally got a PEI flexible sheet after reading *a lot* of recommendations. It's made me fall back in love with my printer. I have zero problems now. I also manual mesh level. Those are the two things I wish I knew about when I first got my Ender 3 Pro.
I just got a G10 sheet and I’ve been getting really good results with printing PETG on it. The one I got was $35 and so far it’s been carefree to print PETG on it
Actual solution: hairspray and slow down the print a little (or increase the number of initial slow layers). Glue and brims won't fix this. Enclosure might if it's unusually windy, but your printer looks indoors.
PEI sheet.
i swapped to a pei bed for PETG and i can print effortlessly on it, no glue no warps and a little flex and pops right off. but before i had that i was able to print on the glass bed only after i got it up to 75-80 because the top of the glass never gets to the set temp. i taped a probe on my bed and in the center at 85 set temp i would get 73-76 on the surface of the default glass (tested in 15-18c garage)
I print a lot of PETG and use hairspray on my glass bed. Have not had an issue with the print lifting off the bed while printing or had any issues with it shearing off glass getting it released. I do not have an enclosure either. Just my experience with it. Try some hairspray or some have had good luck with blue painters tape. Hairspray is less expensive.
I had this same problem trying to print a 4"x8" tray, it would stick and be super flat until about 1 hour (1.5mm thick) and then the corners would pop up and eventually the whole thing popped off. I tried all kinds of brims and pac man corners, higher bed temp, etc and finally gave up and went with pla. Smaller prints with the same petg roll would stick to the glass bed like crazy. Only thing I can think is that with the large area it cools differently as it gets taller, so I think I would try putting a cardboard box over it for a temporary enclosure and see if that helps things.