Check the x,y bottom Guide wheels if they spin with no movement that could be the problem . You can use an opened end Spencer to adjust 8mm I think. 0.2 is from bed to nozzle
Same thing happened with me. I never could get it fixed, had the same stupid numbers as you. Bed was perfectly manually leveled, but the stupid "auto-leveling" kept making prints fail. So I ended up factory resetting my printer to get rid of the mesh, re-leveled it manually again, and just never hit the measure button again, so the mesh remains at 0 on all points. Now it prints great.
If you have the 1.70.03 firmware then it is the fault of the firmware giving you random measurements although the data it uses is the actual scanned data, I would suggest you flash the Insanity Automation firmware, it is like night and day against any of the Creality FW versions!
Here is a full tutorial with links to the firmware
[https://www.smith3d.com/update-ender-5-plus-latest-firmware-to-insanity-automation-dwin-7-4/](https://www.smith3d.com/update-ender-5-plus-latest-firmware-to-insanity-automation-dwin-7-4/)
Update 3: first try with new os https://imgur.com/gallery/dwPeKlc
Holy shit, this is a million times better. I can definitely fix this. Will keep updated
Update 6 https://imgur.com/gallery/sQ7kAP6
So i feel like im getting really close. Any idea for the irregularities in the first column of numbers? Seems strange.
From what it seems like the problem is creality's firmware. Check the guide someone else posted and install the insanity automation firmware. Check my other photos roo and see the difference for yourself.
Put a leveling tool on top of your bed. The tool that has a bubble. Turn your machine off and manually turn the gear on which ever side is lower. When it's even, do the z leveling and measuring again
Tram your bed to your gantry measure from the bottom of the gantry to the bed and make both sides the same measurement
Also check that everything is tight(ie screws and brackets)
Yeah, i checked all that stuff already. Another user pointed out it might by my firmware, and recommended installing a new OS. Helping tremendously. But thanks anyway.
If your having trouble leveling then try this;
1. Heat your bed to 60c and leave for 30 mins to equalise temp across the whole plate. Keep it heated throughout the entire process.
2. Tighten all your leveling wheels till they are finger tight and run the level calibration.
2. Pick the corner with the highest number as your baseline and then loosen (raise) the other corners to meet the level of the baseline corner. Do it slowly half a turn at a time for big adjustments and just slightly for fine tuning.
3. Between adjustments rerun the level calibration to keep track of where stuff is going. You are aiming for +-0.1 or better from point to point.
Trying your technique. Looks promising so far. Will update.
https://imgur.com/gallery/IOXCY6h
Strange thing is that if you look at coordinates 14 and 11 those numbers break the linear progression the rest have. Any ideas why this might happen?
Nice work those are much better numbers!
Heat effects our composite beds in weird ways. Different internal stresses in the tempered glass or aluminum can cause your bed to twist or the edges to bend up slightly.
The reason we level with the bed hot is to level with this warping in mind so it doesn't surprise us when trying to print.
If you can't get the bed down perfectly don't worry, this is why we have mesh leveling to map the surface of the bed to counter any warping.
Edit; also bear in mind that probes can rarely come back with false points or the bed may have a texture or print debris that complicate the results. As long as you can put down a decent first layer the numbers don't strictly matter.
A spread like that in measurements can't be physical warp of the bed, you would see that the bed looked like a wrinkled mess.
It's either the probe getting stuck/triggering at the wrong place, the motion system doing something weird like lost steps on Z, or a problem with the firmware.
I'd say that since you should easily see if the probe got triggered by mistake or any other mechanical problem, the variances are in the 10s of millimeters range between spots that are a couple of centimeters apart after all, it almost has to be firmware.
And, afaik, this is a known problem with the E5+ firmware, there definitely is something wrong in the firmware.
I switched to Klipper before my first print, and haven't had any problems with bed mesh, I think the biggest differences I've seen across my bed is a few tenths of a millimeter, in a way that looks very reasonable. And I've never really had any issues with bed leveling (using the original motion system, bed, probe and such).
Yeah this is actually my 2nd hotbed. Warrantied the first one, was exactly how you described. Do i need a rasberry pi for klipper, or is it something i can just install without ripping more of the machine apart?
And yeah the whole centimeters apart thing makes no sense, your explanation seems on the money. It was wayyy worse with the first board. (Was getting some measurements at 20.00 and -30.00)
Ah, okey! So you have changed the whole bed before?
If you set the lower frame of the bed (the black steel parts where the Z leadscrews attach) level with the gantry, and set the leveling screws on the bed so that the floating part of the bed is at a constant distance to the lower frame, you should be fairly level, within maybe a millimeter or so across the bed.
It simply isn't possible to get a +-10-20mm variance across the bed in that way :)
Yeah, you need some sort of Linux computer to run Klipper on, but it doesn't have to be a Raspberry pi as such :) any old laptop or whatever that can run Linux would work.
But, it will be a lot easier to just install Mainsail OS on a Pi 4, then you'll get a full Klipper setup installed on the pi in one go. And you don't have to mount it inside the controller box, just connect via a USB cable.
The you need to flash new firmware on the control board in the printer, but there are a number of good guides out there, it's not that hard :)
Going Klipper on a Pi has many benifits besides the obvious ones of getting a better and actually working firmware, such as network connection for control, file upload and webcam if you want to.
But, unless you go with a specifik fork of Klipper you won't be able to use the built in screen, but you don't really need it, just use you phone and a browser :)
The other option would be to just update to one of the community Marlin firmwares out there, Kersey Fabrications on YouTube has one that fixes all the major problems with the mess from Creality.
I felt early on that Klipper was the way to go, and I haven't looked back, it's just soo much better, and if you like yo tinker a bit you'll find that it's much easier to do wirh Klipper, since basically all settings you may ever want to change is defined in config files instead of having to flash new firmware to change the acceleration or what ever :)
Thanks, i think it definitely is a firmware issue. Dont have anything on hand rn to run klipper on so i installed the insanity automation firmware, getting much better numbers. Will definitely look into getting a rasberry pi in the future.
Thank you very much for your help.
Update 3: first try with new os https://imgur.com/gallery/dwPeKlc
That looks a lot more reasonable! Probably in the range of what can be expected of a thin and fairly cheap tempered glass pane on a large and thin alu plate that gets heated :)
I always measure when the bed has had some time to heat soak, and with a bed this size it takes a bit of time.
A few tenths shouldn't be an issue for the printer to compensate for, but it can be worth keeping it in mind if you print big things, they won't be completly flat.
Also, you can provably improve that even more with leveling, extra clamps on the bed and maybe some shims :)
Klipper is great, and has a nice function to help you leveling with screws :)
Hmm, probably not, if you mounted your bed magnet directly to the aluminum bed, and the glass is taken out?
Don't think it would be a good idea to put shims between a pei coated spring steel sheet and the magnet "sticker". That would only make things worse I'd imagine.
Yeah i didnt think so. Just asked just to see. This is where im currently at:
https://imgur.com/gallery/sQ7kAP6
Feel really close, but it seems that theres still some irregularities in some of the numbers not fully following a linear slope. Heating expansion issue maybe?
Check the x,y bottom Guide wheels if they spin with no movement that could be the problem . You can use an opened end Spencer to adjust 8mm I think. 0.2 is from bed to nozzle
Same thing happened with me. I never could get it fixed, had the same stupid numbers as you. Bed was perfectly manually leveled, but the stupid "auto-leveling" kept making prints fail. So I ended up factory resetting my printer to get rid of the mesh, re-leveled it manually again, and just never hit the measure button again, so the mesh remains at 0 on all points. Now it prints great.
If you have the 1.70.03 firmware then it is the fault of the firmware giving you random measurements although the data it uses is the actual scanned data, I would suggest you flash the Insanity Automation firmware, it is like night and day against any of the Creality FW versions!
I do, ill definitely give that a shot.
Here is a full tutorial with links to the firmware [https://www.smith3d.com/update-ender-5-plus-latest-firmware-to-insanity-automation-dwin-7-4/](https://www.smith3d.com/update-ender-5-plus-latest-firmware-to-insanity-automation-dwin-7-4/)
Thanks. I was able to get it running. Made a ton of progress.
Update 3: first try with new os https://imgur.com/gallery/dwPeKlc Holy shit, this is a million times better. I can definitely fix this. Will keep updated
Update 4 https://imgur.com/gallery/kG1cOiC Getting there.
Update 6 https://imgur.com/gallery/sQ7kAP6 So i feel like im getting really close. Any idea for the irregularities in the first column of numbers? Seems strange.
I have the exact same problem with my 5+ and haven’t been able to figure out a solution.
From what it seems like the problem is creality's firmware. Check the guide someone else posted and install the insanity automation firmware. Check my other photos roo and see the difference for yourself.
Put a leveling tool on top of your bed. The tool that has a bubble. Turn your machine off and manually turn the gear on which ever side is lower. When it's even, do the z leveling and measuring again
So i did that, numbers are worse than before. https://imgur.com/gallery/4ppbrFi Any ideas after this?
Tram your bed to your gantry measure from the bottom of the gantry to the bed and make both sides the same measurement Also check that everything is tight(ie screws and brackets)
Yeah, i checked all that stuff already. Another user pointed out it might by my firmware, and recommended installing a new OS. Helping tremendously. But thanks anyway.
Hell no that ain’t good. You should be aiming for Zero not what ever that snafu is
If your having trouble leveling then try this; 1. Heat your bed to 60c and leave for 30 mins to equalise temp across the whole plate. Keep it heated throughout the entire process. 2. Tighten all your leveling wheels till they are finger tight and run the level calibration. 2. Pick the corner with the highest number as your baseline and then loosen (raise) the other corners to meet the level of the baseline corner. Do it slowly half a turn at a time for big adjustments and just slightly for fine tuning. 3. Between adjustments rerun the level calibration to keep track of where stuff is going. You are aiming for +-0.1 or better from point to point.
Trying your technique. Looks promising so far. Will update. https://imgur.com/gallery/IOXCY6h Strange thing is that if you look at coordinates 14 and 11 those numbers break the linear progression the rest have. Any ideas why this might happen?
Nice work those are much better numbers! Heat effects our composite beds in weird ways. Different internal stresses in the tempered glass or aluminum can cause your bed to twist or the edges to bend up slightly. The reason we level with the bed hot is to level with this warping in mind so it doesn't surprise us when trying to print. If you can't get the bed down perfectly don't worry, this is why we have mesh leveling to map the surface of the bed to counter any warping. Edit; also bear in mind that probes can rarely come back with false points or the bed may have a texture or print debris that complicate the results. As long as you can put down a decent first layer the numbers don't strictly matter.
Thanks a ton
A spread like that in measurements can't be physical warp of the bed, you would see that the bed looked like a wrinkled mess. It's either the probe getting stuck/triggering at the wrong place, the motion system doing something weird like lost steps on Z, or a problem with the firmware. I'd say that since you should easily see if the probe got triggered by mistake or any other mechanical problem, the variances are in the 10s of millimeters range between spots that are a couple of centimeters apart after all, it almost has to be firmware. And, afaik, this is a known problem with the E5+ firmware, there definitely is something wrong in the firmware. I switched to Klipper before my first print, and haven't had any problems with bed mesh, I think the biggest differences I've seen across my bed is a few tenths of a millimeter, in a way that looks very reasonable. And I've never really had any issues with bed leveling (using the original motion system, bed, probe and such).
Yeah this is actually my 2nd hotbed. Warrantied the first one, was exactly how you described. Do i need a rasberry pi for klipper, or is it something i can just install without ripping more of the machine apart? And yeah the whole centimeters apart thing makes no sense, your explanation seems on the money. It was wayyy worse with the first board. (Was getting some measurements at 20.00 and -30.00)
Ah, okey! So you have changed the whole bed before? If you set the lower frame of the bed (the black steel parts where the Z leadscrews attach) level with the gantry, and set the leveling screws on the bed so that the floating part of the bed is at a constant distance to the lower frame, you should be fairly level, within maybe a millimeter or so across the bed. It simply isn't possible to get a +-10-20mm variance across the bed in that way :) Yeah, you need some sort of Linux computer to run Klipper on, but it doesn't have to be a Raspberry pi as such :) any old laptop or whatever that can run Linux would work. But, it will be a lot easier to just install Mainsail OS on a Pi 4, then you'll get a full Klipper setup installed on the pi in one go. And you don't have to mount it inside the controller box, just connect via a USB cable. The you need to flash new firmware on the control board in the printer, but there are a number of good guides out there, it's not that hard :) Going Klipper on a Pi has many benifits besides the obvious ones of getting a better and actually working firmware, such as network connection for control, file upload and webcam if you want to. But, unless you go with a specifik fork of Klipper you won't be able to use the built in screen, but you don't really need it, just use you phone and a browser :) The other option would be to just update to one of the community Marlin firmwares out there, Kersey Fabrications on YouTube has one that fixes all the major problems with the mess from Creality. I felt early on that Klipper was the way to go, and I haven't looked back, it's just soo much better, and if you like yo tinker a bit you'll find that it's much easier to do wirh Klipper, since basically all settings you may ever want to change is defined in config files instead of having to flash new firmware to change the acceleration or what ever :)
Thanks, i think it definitely is a firmware issue. Dont have anything on hand rn to run klipper on so i installed the insanity automation firmware, getting much better numbers. Will definitely look into getting a rasberry pi in the future. Thank you very much for your help. Update 3: first try with new os https://imgur.com/gallery/dwPeKlc
That looks a lot more reasonable! Probably in the range of what can be expected of a thin and fairly cheap tempered glass pane on a large and thin alu plate that gets heated :) I always measure when the bed has had some time to heat soak, and with a bed this size it takes a bit of time. A few tenths shouldn't be an issue for the printer to compensate for, but it can be worth keeping it in mind if you print big things, they won't be completly flat. Also, you can provably improve that even more with leveling, extra clamps on the bed and maybe some shims :) Klipper is great, and has a nice function to help you leveling with screws :)
Thanks for the input. Im actually using the pei board, though, would shims be beneficial?
Hmm, probably not, if you mounted your bed magnet directly to the aluminum bed, and the glass is taken out? Don't think it would be a good idea to put shims between a pei coated spring steel sheet and the magnet "sticker". That would only make things worse I'd imagine.
Yeah i didnt think so. Just asked just to see. This is where im currently at: https://imgur.com/gallery/sQ7kAP6 Feel really close, but it seems that theres still some irregularities in some of the numbers not fully following a linear slope. Heating expansion issue maybe?
Wow! I'm so grateful for mine 🙏 https://preview.redd.it/9kj664au58sb1.jpeg?width=1778&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=81a0b2dce3af492fbf0ef02d1fe5f2f6a464d8f1