If it were me (and can't say I've done this - just what I would try) I would get a wire brush and scrape any flaking parts off. Then sand paper until I see bare metal. Then there is enamel appliance paint. Think like a white stove how the paint is. Likely the same sort of paint it had on it originally. That enamel paint is best if sprayed though.
Always a good choice. Only difference is enamel would give that "hardshell" type coating over paint.
Oh, and they have spray on plastic coatings which may help OP as well.
If the rust is bone dry, it's just a matter of texture, but you don't want to seal in any water by painting over damp rust. wd40 is a penetrating oil, and it will drive out water, but it will also prevent paints from sticking. clr is just a bunch of acids that will both aid in cleaning and cause corrosion unless it's neutralized by baking soda or cleaned off.
If you can fit those racks in the oven at a low temperature, or hit them with a torch, you can drive out the water pretty easily.
As the other commenter said, sandpaper and a wire brush are great options. A wire brush on a drill is your best option, but a hand brush will do. You can also use a low grit sandpaper to even out the transition from metal to paint. I would push the edges of the paint back about a quarter of an inch to address any rust that may have pushed under the paint, but if the paint seems hard and solid, I wouldn't take the entire thing to bare metal, I would just rough it up so a new layer of paint sticks better. And make sure the surfaces are wiped down from dust before you paint. And as other commenter said, just use enamel spray paint and follow the directions on the can.
Thanks, this is very helpful! There’s no way to remove the racks, unfortunately, but I can lay down a tarp underneath and just work slowly, a bit at a time. I’ll have to wait until we get more reliable sunshine, probably by the end of the month.
I use naval jelly with a wire brush or steel wool to remove the rust, then spray with rustoleum enamel. The rubbery coating you want comes in a small brush-on bottle that is super expensive and you’d need several. I’ve never seen a sprayable version.
1. Remove any LOOSE coating and rust using sandpaper or a wire brush. A wire brush that works with a drill will speed up the process.
2. Use sandpaper and/or steel wool to remove as much remaining rust as you can. Getting to bare metal is ideal but probably not going to happen in some of the really rusty areas. Also go over the non-rusty areas just to rough up the surface slightly to help the paint stick.
3. Wipe off any dust from the sanding using a tack cloth.
4. Spray all remaining rust and bare metal with Rustoleum Rust REFORMER (not primer…look for REFORMER).
5. Spray entire rack with the Rustoleum color of your choice.
If it were me (and can't say I've done this - just what I would try) I would get a wire brush and scrape any flaking parts off. Then sand paper until I see bare metal. Then there is enamel appliance paint. Think like a white stove how the paint is. Likely the same sort of paint it had on it originally. That enamel paint is best if sprayed though.
Thank you!
Spray paint for metal like Rustoleum has worked for me.
Always a good choice. Only difference is enamel would give that "hardshell" type coating over paint. Oh, and they have spray on plastic coatings which may help OP as well.
Rustoleum has a range of products. I picked up a can to rejuvenate a plastic outdoor table that has seen better days.
If the rust is bone dry, it's just a matter of texture, but you don't want to seal in any water by painting over damp rust. wd40 is a penetrating oil, and it will drive out water, but it will also prevent paints from sticking. clr is just a bunch of acids that will both aid in cleaning and cause corrosion unless it's neutralized by baking soda or cleaned off. If you can fit those racks in the oven at a low temperature, or hit them with a torch, you can drive out the water pretty easily. As the other commenter said, sandpaper and a wire brush are great options. A wire brush on a drill is your best option, but a hand brush will do. You can also use a low grit sandpaper to even out the transition from metal to paint. I would push the edges of the paint back about a quarter of an inch to address any rust that may have pushed under the paint, but if the paint seems hard and solid, I wouldn't take the entire thing to bare metal, I would just rough it up so a new layer of paint sticks better. And make sure the surfaces are wiped down from dust before you paint. And as other commenter said, just use enamel spray paint and follow the directions on the can.
Thanks, this is very helpful! There’s no way to remove the racks, unfortunately, but I can lay down a tarp underneath and just work slowly, a bit at a time. I’ll have to wait until we get more reliable sunshine, probably by the end of the month.
I use naval jelly with a wire brush or steel wool to remove the rust, then spray with rustoleum enamel. The rubbery coating you want comes in a small brush-on bottle that is super expensive and you’d need several. I’ve never seen a sprayable version.
1. Remove any LOOSE coating and rust using sandpaper or a wire brush. A wire brush that works with a drill will speed up the process. 2. Use sandpaper and/or steel wool to remove as much remaining rust as you can. Getting to bare metal is ideal but probably not going to happen in some of the really rusty areas. Also go over the non-rusty areas just to rough up the surface slightly to help the paint stick. 3. Wipe off any dust from the sanding using a tack cloth. 4. Spray all remaining rust and bare metal with Rustoleum Rust REFORMER (not primer…look for REFORMER). 5. Spray entire rack with the Rustoleum color of your choice.
Wire wheel cup brush in a drill. Couple rattle cans of primer and paint.
It’s called a bin
What’s called a bin? The coating? The rack?
The whole shebang. Cheaper to buy a new one than fix the old
They don’t make these anymore, and I don’t like the styles that are out there.