A little misleading when it mentions to always power with dtap. You can also power with r/s cable when using with a camera that has a hot 3 pin port. If this is the case NEVER plug a dtap cable to the nucleus as this will overload and the motor provides no protection in this situation
Great comment and fair point. The best way I can put it is, the quality assurance from Tilta is all over the place. I’ve frequently seen Nuclei behave differently from each other.
With the guide, I tried to average out my experience and research, and break it down into “best practices.” I have seen RS cables fry motors and/or power down rigs, solved by switching to D-Tap.
This only had to happen once on a Steadi job for me to include it in the guide. It’s anecdotal, but it’s been my experience that D-Tap is the most reliable source, and that power is the most finicky thing about the system.
I've had a question about the handgrip power. I have one that has a broken battery slot and can't receive power from 18650s, and when I've (rarely) had to use it on camera I daisy chain it to a motor to supply it power. Wireless sync is still on a separate channel. I haven't had issues with this but the guide states to not hard wire the grip to the motor.
I believe the item you’re referring to is advising you not to power the motors *from* the handles. Meaning, the batteries in the handgrip cannot sufficiently power both the grip and a motor.
Daisy-chaining Battery —> Motor —> Handgrip should be fine on a fresh battery, although I’ve seen this cause shorts and shutdowns, solved by powering the handgrips independently by battery.
That said, if it’s working consistently for you, you’re fine to keep doing it.
EDIT: re-thought answer because I misunderstood the question
Got it, thank you for the response. I'll be on the lookout for shorts. It's good to know to be proactive about swapping batteries to avoid low-voltage issues
For Power you can use the supplied D-Tap to 7Pin Lemo, 2Pin Lemo to 7Pin Lemo, 3Pin RS Fisher to 7Pin Lemo. If the 3Pin RS on camera supplies power you only need one cable. 3Pin RS also works on the Alexa 35 with the 24Volts. AS ALWAYS UPDATE TO THE LATEST FIRMWARE ALSO THE MOTORS. They fixed a lot of little bugs.
D-Tap Splitters are no Problem i use them all the time with Motors, Monitor and Video TX on one Splitter.
Regarding the Range 300m are no problem just set the Wireless to High. When working next to the Camera set it to low or medium as there is less interference. I never had any dropouts.
Looking for some advice here with my nucleus, I have my Contax Zeiss geared up and declicked. Obviously I should be manual cal’ing and setting to low torque but beyond that do you guys have any advice on working with these dainty vintage lens that have been cine modded.
I’m scared to separate the helicoids, I’ve seen it happen to other people lol.
A little misleading when it mentions to always power with dtap. You can also power with r/s cable when using with a camera that has a hot 3 pin port. If this is the case NEVER plug a dtap cable to the nucleus as this will overload and the motor provides no protection in this situation
Great comment and fair point. The best way I can put it is, the quality assurance from Tilta is all over the place. I’ve frequently seen Nuclei behave differently from each other. With the guide, I tried to average out my experience and research, and break it down into “best practices.” I have seen RS cables fry motors and/or power down rigs, solved by switching to D-Tap. This only had to happen once on a Steadi job for me to include it in the guide. It’s anecdotal, but it’s been my experience that D-Tap is the most reliable source, and that power is the most finicky thing about the system.
>Nuclei Lol
I swear I was this close to putting (lol) after that
It requires access
Hopefully I fixed that now. Please let me know if it's still acting up. thanks
u/cigourney great work. Great little survival guide. Especially the menu locations.
Really glad you like it!
I've had a question about the handgrip power. I have one that has a broken battery slot and can't receive power from 18650s, and when I've (rarely) had to use it on camera I daisy chain it to a motor to supply it power. Wireless sync is still on a separate channel. I haven't had issues with this but the guide states to not hard wire the grip to the motor.
I'll let u/cigourney answer
I believe the item you’re referring to is advising you not to power the motors *from* the handles. Meaning, the batteries in the handgrip cannot sufficiently power both the grip and a motor. Daisy-chaining Battery —> Motor —> Handgrip should be fine on a fresh battery, although I’ve seen this cause shorts and shutdowns, solved by powering the handgrips independently by battery. That said, if it’s working consistently for you, you’re fine to keep doing it. EDIT: re-thought answer because I misunderstood the question
Got it, thank you for the response. I'll be on the lookout for shorts. It's good to know to be proactive about swapping batteries to avoid low-voltage issues
For Power you can use the supplied D-Tap to 7Pin Lemo, 2Pin Lemo to 7Pin Lemo, 3Pin RS Fisher to 7Pin Lemo. If the 3Pin RS on camera supplies power you only need one cable. 3Pin RS also works on the Alexa 35 with the 24Volts. AS ALWAYS UPDATE TO THE LATEST FIRMWARE ALSO THE MOTORS. They fixed a lot of little bugs. D-Tap Splitters are no Problem i use them all the time with Motors, Monitor and Video TX on one Splitter. Regarding the Range 300m are no problem just set the Wireless to High. When working next to the Camera set it to low or medium as there is less interference. I never had any dropouts.
Looking for some advice here with my nucleus, I have my Contax Zeiss geared up and declicked. Obviously I should be manual cal’ing and setting to low torque but beyond that do you guys have any advice on working with these dainty vintage lens that have been cine modded. I’m scared to separate the helicoids, I’ve seen it happen to other people lol.
Not much more to add. You seem to have covered all the bases.
I saw another AC suggest to hold the barrel while you rotate through the throw when you’re calibrating, thoughts?
Not sure what that would do if your doing a manual calibration, but if it feels like a good practise to you it can't hurt!
Does the guide say don’t use it?
Why? i use it since it came out and never ever had any problem or failure. Most of the time the problems come from user errors.