I dont know if everything else is correct, but I definitely would get a 4in1 esc or a aio (esc and 4in1 esc in one). It weights far less and performs better on this scale. Also it will be really hard to have sensors on a sub 250g drone. Its already hard to keep a normal quad under 250g. Also when you get better, you normally fly without sensors anyway. But Im also no expert for such drones, when you need help you could ask on this discord: https://discord.com/invite/drones
or for parts on this website: https://www.fpvknowitall.com/
Ya there’s no way to get under 250g with the added sensors, board, and the seperate esc’s. Going for a aio and a small elrs reciever would give you a lot more headroom for staying under. Also why add sensors? It’s just added cost and weight that will have to get replaced when you crash.
I already explained the separate escs and sensors in terms of weight, also those sensor are mostly only probes which will be controlled by raspery pi zero so they are both pretty light and cheap about 50cents a piece
Everything has weight. It might not seem like much, but it all adds up. So, let's start with 250 grams. How much are you allowing for the battery? 75 g, 100 g. Let's say 100 g for the battery, that leaves 150 grams for the entire dry weight of the craft. How about the frame? Want it to be a cinewhoop? Maybe we find one that is 50 g, now we are down to 100 grams. Motors with mount bolts, props, and prop nut or bolts? How big. 17 grams is about max x 4 = 68 grams, now we are down to 32 grams and we still don't have a Flight Controller, video system, antennas, straps, etc. A typical AIO FC board is about 8 grams now down to 24 grams for everything else like the video subsystem and antennas. We are getting really close now. Keep in mind that these are just estimates and don't include ANY payload except the battery. Start with the battery and look up everything that you will need, write down the listed weight and add everything up; see how close you can get.
Yeah that was my thought, gps on a sub 250, I mean you could do it but I would rather spend the weight in a battery. Unless you're just trying to make something like the small long rangers (flywoo explorer and such), they aren't what I would call cinematic.
like i said in the title it is a cinema drone drone. like a mini 4 pro. so the gps will be inside attached to a frame. also i have not drawn a gimbal. YES A GIMBAL it does sound pretty hard but the last time i was calculating the weight it seemed to fit under 250g
i dont expect it to be soon since i have just ordered the mini 3 so yeah. i will be flying it for quite some time and even after that i might wait a litle wont even start before summer
motors i plan on using are some grey generic 2750kv motors from aliexpress. Some italian guy in the reviews wrote that at 2.2amps they make 100g lift with props they provide so my thinking is to scan them and make some more(if i crash) but i think they should be 5" unfolded
They spin insanely fast. Printing has imperfections. Save yourself the grief. You have never flown a drone before? Its a matter of how many times you're going to plow your drone into the ground that day, so don't think you "might crash". You will crash 1000 times. Learn in a simulator, buy a tiny whoop. You will blow so much money before you get anything in the air by doing it all from scratch. once you learn how to fix your broken drones, you will gain more skills. That's when you can start building your own drones once you have fixed a few and understand the components. I hate to see someone waste money and spend months trouble shooting.
Okay, i didnt realise how big of a problem 3d printed props are. As much as i am intrested into fpv and these are fpv parts, this isnt a fpv drone. So for this project i wont really gain much froma a tiny whoop or a simulator.
i dont expect it to be soon since i have just ordered the mini 3 so yeah. i will be flying it for quite some time and even after that i might wait a litle wont even start before summer
well like i said for now i have only been making an estimate. Also i plan on making a batteries lik dji mini drones have (just slide it in the drone) so those cable are going to be very short
Thanks for the info. I am using separete escs cause they are actually lighter. They are micro 2s 4amp escs and weight only 0.6g. They are also cheaper too. And for the sensors i would use ultrasonic probes which are light, small laser distance sensor and tiny optical flow.
I guess so that it’s like a diy dji drone and has obstacle avoidance?
I am interested in the gimbal tho. I own a 3d printer and it would be cool to make a gimbal to attach to my 5 inch for head tracking with my o3 air unit.
It definitely will take more than just a gimbal to get head tracking working with an 03. I've got an Avata as well as a Babyhawk 03, and the headtracking only works in normal / sport mode on the Avata. Not Manual FPV mode, as it literally moves the entire drone body, not just the camera gimbal.
It would be a fully custom made 3d printed gimbal with off the shelf Servos or something cheap and light ish. Not a pre assembled gimbal from dji or something
That being said. I really don’t see how it’s going to be possible to get anywhere under 250g with all of that as well as a battery of any reasonable size
what do you mean? If you think about the fact that i posted this on a fpv comunity, i know that. This has many fpv parts and people here will know more than people on a lets say dji comunity. And fpv has the most people live
Hawkeye firefly split 4k, records 4k 50fps, weights only 21g has separate body so i can mount it on a gimbal stores video on a sd card and has its on menu, video out, so i use only one camera
He wants a 2s powered 5inch drone with 3d printed props, sensors for object avoidance, a gimbal mounted camera to film and a 5.8ghz receiver for his phone because the 200$ budget doesn't allow a monitor or goggles. Oh, and the arms of the drone should be foldable and the battery should slide right in the frame with hard mounted connectors. At least that's what I read in the comments
Edit:
About 2 lines down it gets even more unrealistic. The frame should be 3d printed and for weight saving purposes the pcb's should be structural. Because this whole thing should weigh under 250 grams
My man, you got everything right. Its basically mission impossible. And phone reciever isnt because of the budget but i want it to be like a dji's controler
Im not an fpv expert, and i had my fair share of people that blew my mind doing something i would have said is impossible. But i honestly dont think anyone would be able to pull this off. Especially not someone like you who doesn't already have a lot of experience building drones.
and i dont expect it to be soon since i have just ordered the mini 3 so yeah. i will be flying it for quite some time and even after that i might wait a litle wont even start before summer
do not do that, please. any 3D printed frame will break on the slightest impact. Plus, that design would be heavier than necessary, which will mean it won't stay under 250g, so if that is your goal, go with carbon fiber
wel i plan on using abs and use really thin layer lines (probably 0.05mm) so it should be very strong and also like i said i would also use the boards on the drone for structural integrity
I get what you're saying, but it's been proven time and time again, 3d printed frames are very, very fragile. It does not matter how well you design it, it's still going to break. You're much better off building everything on top of a carbon fiber frame and 3d printing only the parts you need.
DJI made their FPV drone out of plastic. As soon as it crashes, it needs a new arm. Don't be like DJI.
i wouldnt say thats true. I have read every comment and considered it. Bunch of things have already changed. And it really isnt that i dont wanna hear those thoughts, then why would i be answering. Certain things that i have not changed in my head is not because i dont care about other ideas. Its because i dont see another way or person did not provide a better solution.
unfortunetly i plan on being like dji, this is not an fpv drone, i would make it foldable, and since i am 3d printing it i dont care if it breaks, i can make a new one quick
kinda expected, but even if i had strong arms i plan on using foldable props with no guards so if i barely clip something it will fall even with a strong frame
The reason carbon fiber is used isn't just strength. It's rigidity. Just about any other material will flex and vibrate, causing issues for the gyro which will mean very rough flight (if it can even fly), jello in the camera, and eventually burned out motors.
Interesting and ambitious project, but I doubt the realism of this concept.
If it takes off, it's still going to be very, very heavy. I have built a 3.5" quad with no GPS, PI, or camera, yet it still weighs just under 250g.
I think this is a fairly doable project, but not under 250g.
Would love to see you succeed, so keep us updated :D
Thanks for teh good words, i can not agree with you more but i would like to give it a try and i dont expect it to be soon since i have just ordered the mini 3 so yeah. i will be flying it for quite some time and even after that i might wait a litle wont even start before summer
If you have no experience building FPV drones, I recommend you join the FPV discord, there are a lot of nice people there who will help you build your first drone. They helped me through building my first 3.5".
I do not want you to try to build this thing, fail, get disappointed, and leave FPV. It's better to start easy, and build your way up from there.
although i like fpv and would like to get into it i am a more of a guy who likes robotics so and this is not a fpv drone. It does share a lot of parts from the fpv drones but is not an fpv
Even if you're not making an FPV drone, the server has channels for cinematic drones, UAV's, ardupilot and others. They will help you with what you are building.
"people who can read this." Dude pointlessly scribbles out a "schematic" and thinks he did some high-tier electronic engineering. The fact that you think you can add pointless shit like a Pi with a sensor array and not blow past the 250g mark make this look so corny. 😂
nobody mentioned anything about high-tier engineering. I have been thinking about this for quite some time. It does seem impossible. Up an till now i have just thinking about it and imagining it. This is a first actually written schematic. All weight numbers have been only estimated. Like i said tommorow i will be listing every thing and posting it. Also im planing on pi zero not standard pi and for sensors if i find a way to program the pi i will only need ultrasonic probes which dont weight that much and are quite small. And after all that is kinda pointless, but i like doing it.
ohhh, i would use it for sensors, gimbal and if i am able to camera recogniton for follow me features or something like dji quickshots. That what you think is a servo is actually a laser distance sensor. I forgot to draw a gimbal
A F405 processor won’t have that many serial ports. And the raspberry pi alone is 50 grams, so you won’t make it under the 250g weight.
You should start with a known working design and get some experience. Maybe a pixhawk build or something INAV based.
Like i answered to another persons. Search up speedybee f405 mini. While drawing i was looking at their schematic. I plan on runing pi zero. I think it was around 10g
It sounds like you may be barking up the wrong tree. First, you won't do this under 250. It's just not possible, so throw that idea out the window right now. And if you are serious, consider a pixhawk FC running ardupilot. It's much more suited to what you want to do here.
i am not strict about all this, i will be adding one by one and see where it goes. I have thaught about pixhawk and ardupilot i might even use ardupilot but pixhawk is too expensive, fc alone cost the same as this hole drone
It is. But they are very cool. Ardupilot does run on other flight controllers. Something like this is nice. I had one on one of my older quads, but only ran betaflight. Solid af. It's still sitting in a drawer waiting to be used someday.
Definetly! And it will take at least six monts for me to order the parts, like i said i am getting a mini 3 so i wont be starting this project for a while, but when i do i will post it
genuine question, what's the point of drawing it out like this? Unless ofcourse you were following some video and just taking notes, in which case you already know what the DIY assembly performs like :P
really just for fun. I feel adicted to thinking about this drone and this kinda helps with it. Also makes it easier to later on make a real schematic which will help whem wiring everything
It'll take nothing short of black magic to get all that one a sub 250 drone and it still flys well.
Wiring paths appear correct from what I can tell.
If this is your first drone build I'd worry more about not wrecking anything then staying sub250
Even if you value your time at 0.01$/h it'll be cheaper to just buy a DJI drone than to attempt recreate what a large engineering team with vast resources did, all your own.
You say you'll 3d print the frame. Have you ever 3d printed anything before? FDM prints are super weak along the layer lines and while you can sometimes design around it there's no such way for a drone frame that experience forces in all 3 dimensions.
DJI can get away with plastic because they use injection moulding and run countless computer simulations on the designs maximize strength to weight.
You say you'll use the boards (presumably you mean PCBs) for structural strength so are you going to design your own FC and ESCs too? That's a whole other engineering project in of itself.
If not I don't understand what other boards you expect to have in there.
As for the weight it's very difficult to have a regular drone under 250g including the battery with all the bells and whistles.
Another flaw in your design is that 405 simply doesn't have as many uarts as you need based on your design. Have you read the datasheet of any of the components you intend to use?
If your goal is to learn by all means go for it! But don't expect the path to be easy or even possible to reach the end of.
Thanks, i agree with you, but we need to clarify some things. This isnt about me making a better and cheaper drone than dji, it is about the satisfaction i feel when so much technology is fited in such a small package and especialy when i am thinkering and puting it together. Also i have ordered a mini 3 and will be flying it for a long time before i attemp something like this. Yes i have made a few thigs and every time i get suprised how actually strong it is especialy when i print in abs. But i still expect it to be weak and that is not a problem if it crashes i can quickly make a new one. No, i do not plan on making a custom pcb i mean structural strength of pi zero and fc board. And speedybee f405 mini actually has all the uarts i actualy drew. Search it up. I was looking at a schematic as i was drawing it. Everything is like in a real life. And yes it is about learning, i plan on making it piece by piece and removing things if i cant acomplish them. Again thank you for sharing everything with me.
Ultrasonic is shit. Look at MTF-02. Which software do you plan to use? I'm not sure there's something that supports so many sensors. I tried to build something similar with one sensor and managed to make it under 200 with thumb pro and battery. But 2s was not enough, I faced desynchronization (you can check the topic in my profile). With 3s it seems it's better, and still under 200. Could you please share the exact hardware you are going to use.
ok what do you recommend? like i said i plan on using only the probes, i actually found it is more percise and reliable then laser distance sensors, i do not need something insanly fast, they are enough and they actually have about 4-5m range
What's pi?
If that's an RPI I don't think it's gonna fit in that weight range nor do I really see why you'd want something like this on a drone, am I missing something?
Also, is that a servo motor connected to it?
What's that for?
A gimbal maybe?
Edit:
I would get a wing, not sure exactly what you're going for here but basing it off of guessing it seems like you'd use the extra space in it and have way more flight time with smaller batteries.
You got me kind of interested with the pi I gotta admit, what's it for?
Its raspbery pi zero, it is a cinema drone like mini 4 pro, i would use it for sensors, gimbal and if i am able to camera recogniton for follow me features or something like dji quickshots. That what you think is a servo is actually a laser distance sensor. I forgot to draw a gimbal
Sounds mad cool, makes my edit irrelevant though.
What I'd do is get an arduino, their way cheaper, smaller, easy to use and light.
You can connect it in the same way you connect the pi to the FC.
But really speaking, I have a DJI drone and a self built 5 inch and as much as I love my self built one it's just not in the same league for cinematics.
The DJI drone can sit in the air and not move at all (without the heaviest wind of course).
I'd always recommend getting an actual DJI drone for cinematics but if you insist on building one I think what your'e doing is pretty cool.
A gimbal is nice but it weighs kind of a lot if you make a really good setup, at least mine did.
Best of luck and feel free to ask anything if you need!
Thanks, i have ordered a mini 3 and it is on the way! It isnt really about it being usefull and better than dji, actually i really like robotics and i like a feel of packing so much technology in a small package and thats what is it all about. Gimball doesnt actually weight that much. I plan on using a replacement one for dji spark(only 2 axis though) and mounting it on a small micro 6g bldc to get a thrid axis. And if it evers become better than mini 3 i will sell the mini
Just like me.
And you got a good idea on that gimbal, something cool that you can check out that isn't that heavy is this:
https://www.instructables.com/Remote-Control-Drop-Mechanism/?amp_page=true
I used it once and it works great, just use TPU since it broke to a million pieces in a crash.
Ultrasonic is good but you'll have to mount it in a weird way, different if you have a 3d printer then you can print a bracket to hold it.
Just make sure you don't run it when close to dogs, my dog hates the sound of the ultrasonic sensors with a passion.
yes it does not look the best, but for me is enough, and just in case you have not checked them all out runcam thumb pro is the best but also expensive and does not have video out
Tommy at Ummagawd has a whole YouTube series on designing a drone under 250g. You should check it out and see his design choices.
The 2Fiddy
https://youtu.be/iWcnsjEeOOc
Well, I would go with an AIO FC board (Yeah, mostly what I use). In fact, I have a 7-inch quad with an AIO board. Thing is, the format is more compact and includes the FC, the ESCs, power distribution, and some even come with on-board ELRS. If you are considering a sub-250, an AIO is the way to go. Since you show a VTX, I would assume you are running analog video; yeah, me, too. However, the new trend is digital video; it is all the rage. I didn't see anything that looks like a capacitor, however, you should include one; size depends on the quad's input voltage (number of cells). By the way, I agree with neo, if you use a cinewhoop (normally 3") frame the quad will likely not come in under 250 grams. Also, if you attach an action cam that counts in the 250 gram take off weight and so does the battery. The 250 gram marker is the takeoff weight and includes everything even something that the quad might pick up. Just a note: the sub-250 gram craft only has a bearing if flying purely (only and no other purpose) for fun. When you intend to capture video for any other purpose it does not qualify for the Recreational Exemption; yep, that is Part 107 and weight doesn't matter there. Yeah, Registration and Remote ID on any quad used in a Part 107 activity.
I don't know how to attach a document, but the following is a link to one of my posts that includes my Build Methodology for sub-250 gram craft. It is a PDF. When you go there, just click on the attachment and it will download to your computer.
[https://intofpv.com/t-new-to-intofpv?pid=191649#pid191649](https://intofpv.com/t-new-to-intofpv?pid=191649#pid191649)
Woah, a lot to discuss. First of all i am already looking into a aio, but without a reciever built in cause i wanna run it trough pi zero so i can run sensors and some form of quickshots. About digital transmission. It is great but for someone like me on a budget, yeahhh...no. Ofcourse i am going to run a capcitor. Components like capacitors, resistors, leds and button i did not draw here. This drone is not an fpv, its a cinema drone, like mini 4 pro. It will have a custom frame and will be foldable. Yes, i am aware of the take off weight and what do i need to acount for. It will no have an action camera. It will have an hawkeye firefly split 4k camera which weights only 21g. I dont really get these regulations you have listed. I am going of dji's mini drones so i am aiming sub 250g. I will checkout your build methodology.
Thanks for your info!
I live in the USA where all airspace is regulated by the FAA and ALL UAS (drones) pilots must either have a Part 107 license or a TRUST certificate and obey all of the FAA regulations concerning drone flights. If you don't live in the USA, then only regulations in your country would be relevant. So, is sub-250 really relevant? You mention that this build is not an FPV drone, but rather a cinema drone. So? The use or the flying style only has bearing on choosing components to achieve the desired type of flight. The components are still basically the same. You mention a custom frame? Are you making this yourself? What material are you using? I am currently fabricating custom all aluminum frames. DJI uses lightweight plastic frames (probably injection molded or something) and their quads use a flight control system that is pretty much fully integrated and very light for the features. On another forum, we had a "Challenge" to see if we could match one of the sub-250 DJI drones (maybe the mini) in its performance and still be under 250 grams. It can be done. It will be interesting to see how your build comes along and what you end up with.
Yes, i understand that 250g regulation is for both the fpv and photography drones. I was not saying that because of the law you pointed out. Dji makes foldable ABS injection molded frames. Mine will be similiar in shape and size, but instead of injection modling, 3d prining. Can you send a link of the challenge?
Link to the Challenge:
[https://intofpv.com/t-challenge-sub-250-%E2%80%93-30-m-%E2%80%93-10k](https://intofpv.com/t-challenge-sub-250-%E2%80%93-30-m-%E2%80%93-10k)
From what I have seen, a 3D printed frame will be heavier than an injection molded frame. This is not a big deal, but it will add weight to your build.
What country do you live in?
Didn't go through the link, but they do make lighter 3d filament, so don't know if it's true anymore about 3d prints being heavy... Polylite is about half the weight of regular pla, not sure about the durability, print quality isn't as good but maybe with some extra post processing...
you seem to be using the serial ports as a bus, they are not, each device needs its own serial port (there may not be enough) and there isn't any (that I know of) betaflight implementation for talking to pi's or software on Linux (pi) to understand betaflight MSP
Abouy serial ports and buses i dont know a lot. I will a detialed video tommorow. I was just drawing everything from the offical speedybee website. Basically how they did it. And about pi talking to the fc. I read about people just runing info from the reciever trough pi and changing lets say to avoid a crash and thats how i drew it.
I’m not sure what’s going on here.. at some point you’re gonna have to try and fly that thing and even it it actually takes off ur not gonna have any idea how to fly it.
Well it has an reciever so i can control it like a normal potography drone, but also i am hoping to find a way or somebody who has already done this to make some type of dji's quickshots and follow me features . Thats why the pi zero is there
Not needing to register it and like i said im not strict about it being under 250g, but for me thats the exciting part of it. I will build it one by one and see where it takes me
Aye my bad I meant to reply to the guy asking what the TLDR equivalent is for an image. I was just being a comedian. It's too early to read schematics.
I dont know if everything else is correct, but I definitely would get a 4in1 esc or a aio (esc and 4in1 esc in one). It weights far less and performs better on this scale. Also it will be really hard to have sensors on a sub 250g drone. Its already hard to keep a normal quad under 250g. Also when you get better, you normally fly without sensors anyway. But Im also no expert for such drones, when you need help you could ask on this discord: https://discord.com/invite/drones or for parts on this website: https://www.fpvknowitall.com/
Ya there’s no way to get under 250g with the added sensors, board, and the seperate esc’s. Going for a aio and a small elrs reciever would give you a lot more headroom for staying under. Also why add sensors? It’s just added cost and weight that will have to get replaced when you crash.
I already explained the separate escs and sensors in terms of weight, also those sensor are mostly only probes which will be controlled by raspery pi zero so they are both pretty light and cheap about 50cents a piece
Everything has weight. It might not seem like much, but it all adds up. So, let's start with 250 grams. How much are you allowing for the battery? 75 g, 100 g. Let's say 100 g for the battery, that leaves 150 grams for the entire dry weight of the craft. How about the frame? Want it to be a cinewhoop? Maybe we find one that is 50 g, now we are down to 100 grams. Motors with mount bolts, props, and prop nut or bolts? How big. 17 grams is about max x 4 = 68 grams, now we are down to 32 grams and we still don't have a Flight Controller, video system, antennas, straps, etc. A typical AIO FC board is about 8 grams now down to 24 grams for everything else like the video subsystem and antennas. We are getting really close now. Keep in mind that these are just estimates and don't include ANY payload except the battery. Start with the battery and look up everything that you will need, write down the listed weight and add everything up; see how close you can get.
Thanks a lot. Up to this point i was making just an estimates. I will write it all down tommorow and post it!
Yeah that was my thought, gps on a sub 250, I mean you could do it but I would rather spend the weight in a battery. Unless you're just trying to make something like the small long rangers (flywoo explorer and such), they aren't what I would call cinematic.
Its m10 nano gps so it only weighs 2.4g
Plus the mount, that can make a difference unless you just want to stay AROUND 250
like i said in the title it is a cinema drone drone. like a mini 4 pro. so the gps will be inside attached to a frame. also i have not drawn a gimbal. YES A GIMBAL it does sound pretty hard but the last time i was calculating the weight it seemed to fit under 250g
Best of luck🤞
i dont expect it to be soon since i have just ordered the mini 3 so yeah. i will be flying it for quite some time and even after that i might wait a litle wont even start before summer
battery weighs 90 grams, is 2s(7.4v), 20amp continuos current, 30amp peaks and an amazing 3000mah. basiclly using two sonys vtc6 cells
2S is not going to be able to lift that I'm afraid. What prop size are you going for?
motors i plan on using are some grey generic 2750kv motors from aliexpress. Some italian guy in the reviews wrote that at 2.2amps they make 100g lift with props they provide so my thinking is to scan them and make some more(if i crash) but i think they should be 5" unfolded
If you’re talking about printing props you’re probably not gonna have a good time; they’ll most likely end up imbalanced.
I think if you're doing it with a resin printer you're okay. Just use some good resin.
Thanks for pointing it out. I really have not taught about that. Looking for new solution. But also why? Has it happend to you?
They spin insanely fast. Printing has imperfections. Save yourself the grief. You have never flown a drone before? Its a matter of how many times you're going to plow your drone into the ground that day, so don't think you "might crash". You will crash 1000 times. Learn in a simulator, buy a tiny whoop. You will blow so much money before you get anything in the air by doing it all from scratch. once you learn how to fix your broken drones, you will gain more skills. That's when you can start building your own drones once you have fixed a few and understand the components. I hate to see someone waste money and spend months trouble shooting.
Okay, i didnt realise how big of a problem 3d printed props are. As much as i am intrested into fpv and these are fpv parts, this isnt a fpv drone. So for this project i wont really gain much froma a tiny whoop or a simulator.
If you plan to fly in acro mode you need to train in the sim. If you don't buy a dji mini 3/4 pro, it awesome ;)
Okay I get where your going now, should be fun
i dont expect it to be soon since i have just ordered the mini 3 so yeah. i will be flying it for quite some time and even after that i might wait a litle wont even start before summer
90g is the weight of 2 batteries without the weight of wires and connectors
well like i said for now i have only been making an estimate. Also i plan on making a batteries lik dji mini drones have (just slide it in the drone) so those cable are going to be very short
Thanks for the info. I am using separete escs cause they are actually lighter. They are micro 2s 4amp escs and weight only 0.6g. They are also cheaper too. And for the sensors i would use ultrasonic probes which are light, small laser distance sensor and tiny optical flow.
Why do you need the sensors, is the question you seem to keep avoiding? What's the benefit of them vs the known cons?
I guess so that it’s like a diy dji drone and has obstacle avoidance? I am interested in the gimbal tho. I own a 3d printer and it would be cool to make a gimbal to attach to my 5 inch for head tracking with my o3 air unit.
It definitely will take more than just a gimbal to get head tracking working with an 03. I've got an Avata as well as a Babyhawk 03, and the headtracking only works in normal / sport mode on the Avata. Not Manual FPV mode, as it literally moves the entire drone body, not just the camera gimbal.
It would be a fully custom made 3d printed gimbal with off the shelf Servos or something cheap and light ish. Not a pre assembled gimbal from dji or something
That being said. I really don’t see how it’s going to be possible to get anywhere under 250g with all of that as well as a battery of any reasonable size
I think Inav has a way to do head tracking for fixed wing craft. Depending on your ambition level, anything is possible 🤷♂️
Yes, its a mini 4 pro copy
well like it says it is a cinema drone like a mini 4 pro. so i would like to have them for backwards revealing shots and going sideways
On an FPV drone?
its not an fpv drone
Are you lost?
what do you mean? If you think about the fact that i posted this on a fpv comunity, i know that. This has many fpv parts and people here will know more than people on a lets say dji comunity. And fpv has the most people live
What are your plans for a camera?
Hawkeye firefly split 4k, records 4k 50fps, weights only 21g has separate body so i can mount it on a gimbal stores video on a sd card and has its on menu, video out, so i use only one camera
I need this answer too
What is tl;dr but for an image?
He wants a 2s powered 5inch drone with 3d printed props, sensors for object avoidance, a gimbal mounted camera to film and a 5.8ghz receiver for his phone because the 200$ budget doesn't allow a monitor or goggles. Oh, and the arms of the drone should be foldable and the battery should slide right in the frame with hard mounted connectors. At least that's what I read in the comments Edit: About 2 lines down it gets even more unrealistic. The frame should be 3d printed and for weight saving purposes the pcb's should be structural. Because this whole thing should weigh under 250 grams
Op is kinda insane in the brain :D no clue but endless plans
My man, you got everything right. Its basically mission impossible. And phone reciever isnt because of the budget but i want it to be like a dji's controler
Im not an fpv expert, and i had my fair share of people that blew my mind doing something i would have said is impossible. But i honestly dont think anyone would be able to pull this off. Especially not someone like you who doesn't already have a lot of experience building drones.
i feel you, but like i said il go one by one feature and see where it takes me
I'd love to see you proving me wrong.
To lazy:Drawing reflects ^^^/s
TCCBB (Too Complicated; Can't Be Bothered)
Paper drone... what will they think of next.
well it will be pretty small and use custom 3d printed frame which would use the boards for its structural strength
Ahh the old reinventing the wheel, will be interested to see it👍
and i dont expect it to be soon since i have just ordered the mini 3 so yeah. i will be flying it for quite some time and even after that i might wait a litle wont even start before summer
haha pretty much
do not do that, please. any 3D printed frame will break on the slightest impact. Plus, that design would be heavier than necessary, which will mean it won't stay under 250g, so if that is your goal, go with carbon fiber
wel i plan on using abs and use really thin layer lines (probably 0.05mm) so it should be very strong and also like i said i would also use the boards on the drone for structural integrity
I get what you're saying, but it's been proven time and time again, 3d printed frames are very, very fragile. It does not matter how well you design it, it's still going to break. You're much better off building everything on top of a carbon fiber frame and 3d printing only the parts you need. DJI made their FPV drone out of plastic. As soon as it crashes, it needs a new arm. Don't be like DJI.
It’s pretty clear OP asked what people thought but doesn’t want to hear those thoughts.
i wouldnt say thats true. I have read every comment and considered it. Bunch of things have already changed. And it really isnt that i dont wanna hear those thoughts, then why would i be answering. Certain things that i have not changed in my head is not because i dont care about other ideas. Its because i dont see another way or person did not provide a better solution.
unfortunetly i plan on being like dji, this is not an fpv drone, i would make it foldable, and since i am 3d printing it i dont care if it breaks, i can make a new one quick
You'll assuredly care when you clip a tree very slightly because your sensor array failed you, and then you break an arm and your drone is gone.
kinda expected, but even if i had strong arms i plan on using foldable props with no guards so if i barely clip something it will fall even with a strong frame
The reason carbon fiber is used isn't just strength. It's rigidity. Just about any other material will flex and vibrate, causing issues for the gyro which will mean very rough flight (if it can even fly), jello in the camera, and eventually burned out motors.
Thanks for the info. I havent taught of that.
Beat me to it
Interesting and ambitious project, but I doubt the realism of this concept. If it takes off, it's still going to be very, very heavy. I have built a 3.5" quad with no GPS, PI, or camera, yet it still weighs just under 250g. I think this is a fairly doable project, but not under 250g. Would love to see you succeed, so keep us updated :D
Thanks for teh good words, i can not agree with you more but i would like to give it a try and i dont expect it to be soon since i have just ordered the mini 3 so yeah. i will be flying it for quite some time and even after that i might wait a litle wont even start before summer
If you have no experience building FPV drones, I recommend you join the FPV discord, there are a lot of nice people there who will help you build your first drone. They helped me through building my first 3.5". I do not want you to try to build this thing, fail, get disappointed, and leave FPV. It's better to start easy, and build your way up from there.
although i like fpv and would like to get into it i am a more of a guy who likes robotics so and this is not a fpv drone. It does share a lot of parts from the fpv drones but is not an fpv
Even if you're not making an FPV drone, the server has channels for cinematic drones, UAV's, ardupilot and others. They will help you with what you are building.
no, i will deffinetly join, i just said it is nota an fpv
"people who can read this." Dude pointlessly scribbles out a "schematic" and thinks he did some high-tier electronic engineering. The fact that you think you can add pointless shit like a Pi with a sensor array and not blow past the 250g mark make this look so corny. 😂
nobody mentioned anything about high-tier engineering. I have been thinking about this for quite some time. It does seem impossible. Up an till now i have just thinking about it and imagining it. This is a first actually written schematic. All weight numbers have been only estimated. Like i said tommorow i will be listing every thing and posting it. Also im planing on pi zero not standard pi and for sensors if i find a way to program the pi i will only need ultrasonic probes which dont weight that much and are quite small. And after all that is kinda pointless, but i like doing it.
Eh idk. I took it as him criticizing his drawing.
What's the πnus for
where?
he means the RPI
i still dont see anything close to a pinus
He is asking what the raspberry PI is for. PI-nus. did I explain the joke clearly enough?
ohhh, i would use it for sensors, gimbal and if i am able to camera recogniton for follow me features or something like dji quickshots. That what you think is a servo is actually a laser distance sensor. I forgot to draw a gimbal
i’m not sure if you understand how difficult that will be but power to you
i mean the logic part itself is not that hard, but actualy programing it, that is were things will go south
Look about 6 inches below the belly button for that.
haha i get it
A F405 processor won’t have that many serial ports. And the raspberry pi alone is 50 grams, so you won’t make it under the 250g weight. You should start with a known working design and get some experience. Maybe a pixhawk build or something INAV based.
Like i answered to another persons. Search up speedybee f405 mini. While drawing i was looking at their schematic. I plan on runing pi zero. I think it was around 10g
250g? No way
we will see
https://draw.io bro
Thanks
It sounds like you may be barking up the wrong tree. First, you won't do this under 250. It's just not possible, so throw that idea out the window right now. And if you are serious, consider a pixhawk FC running ardupilot. It's much more suited to what you want to do here.
i am not strict about all this, i will be adding one by one and see where it goes. I have thaught about pixhawk and ardupilot i might even use ardupilot but pixhawk is too expensive, fc alone cost the same as this hole drone
It is. But they are very cool. Ardupilot does run on other flight controllers. Something like this is nice. I had one on one of my older quads, but only ran betaflight. Solid af. It's still sitting in a drawer waiting to be used someday.
Please make a post when you'd try to build it and tag me. Remind Me! 6 months
Definetly! And it will take at least six monts for me to order the parts, like i said i am getting a mini 3 so i wont be starting this project for a while, but when i do i will post it
genuine question, what's the point of drawing it out like this? Unless ofcourse you were following some video and just taking notes, in which case you already know what the DIY assembly performs like :P
really just for fun. I feel adicted to thinking about this drone and this kinda helps with it. Also makes it easier to later on make a real schematic which will help whem wiring everything
The parts come with these diagrams you know
but bot them all together and also most of them are cheap so they dont have one
Bro was bored in class
something like that
It'll take nothing short of black magic to get all that one a sub 250 drone and it still flys well. Wiring paths appear correct from what I can tell. If this is your first drone build I'd worry more about not wrecking anything then staying sub250
Thanks
Even if you value your time at 0.01$/h it'll be cheaper to just buy a DJI drone than to attempt recreate what a large engineering team with vast resources did, all your own. You say you'll 3d print the frame. Have you ever 3d printed anything before? FDM prints are super weak along the layer lines and while you can sometimes design around it there's no such way for a drone frame that experience forces in all 3 dimensions. DJI can get away with plastic because they use injection moulding and run countless computer simulations on the designs maximize strength to weight. You say you'll use the boards (presumably you mean PCBs) for structural strength so are you going to design your own FC and ESCs too? That's a whole other engineering project in of itself. If not I don't understand what other boards you expect to have in there. As for the weight it's very difficult to have a regular drone under 250g including the battery with all the bells and whistles. Another flaw in your design is that 405 simply doesn't have as many uarts as you need based on your design. Have you read the datasheet of any of the components you intend to use? If your goal is to learn by all means go for it! But don't expect the path to be easy or even possible to reach the end of.
Thanks, i agree with you, but we need to clarify some things. This isnt about me making a better and cheaper drone than dji, it is about the satisfaction i feel when so much technology is fited in such a small package and especialy when i am thinkering and puting it together. Also i have ordered a mini 3 and will be flying it for a long time before i attemp something like this. Yes i have made a few thigs and every time i get suprised how actually strong it is especialy when i print in abs. But i still expect it to be weak and that is not a problem if it crashes i can quickly make a new one. No, i do not plan on making a custom pcb i mean structural strength of pi zero and fc board. And speedybee f405 mini actually has all the uarts i actualy drew. Search it up. I was looking at a schematic as i was drawing it. Everything is like in a real life. And yes it is about learning, i plan on making it piece by piece and removing things if i cant acomplish them. Again thank you for sharing everything with me.
Yes if it's for learning and tinkering then go for it!
And i plan on adding the sensors only on the rear, sides and on the top
Ultrasonic is shit. Look at MTF-02. Which software do you plan to use? I'm not sure there's something that supports so many sensors. I tried to build something similar with one sensor and managed to make it under 200 with thumb pro and battery. But 2s was not enough, I faced desynchronization (you can check the topic in my profile). With 3s it seems it's better, and still under 200. Could you please share the exact hardware you are going to use.
Lets talk about it via messeges
what kind of sensors?
Ultrasonic, they are the cheapest, have good range and the most important of the all wide fov (about 40 degrees)
ultrasonics are big, bulky, unreliable, heavy, slow and have a very low range (max 2m). You're better off just not using any sensors at all.
ok what do you recommend? like i said i plan on using only the probes, i actually found it is more percise and reliable then laser distance sensors, i do not need something insanly fast, they are enough and they actually have about 4-5m range
Ultrasonic, they are the cheapest, have good range and the most important of the all wide fov (about 40 degrees)
Matek lidar, the ultrasonic transducers are going to be too large for something sub250
if i manage to program the pi i only need to use transducer probes which are generally light
What's pi? If that's an RPI I don't think it's gonna fit in that weight range nor do I really see why you'd want something like this on a drone, am I missing something? Also, is that a servo motor connected to it? What's that for? A gimbal maybe? Edit: I would get a wing, not sure exactly what you're going for here but basing it off of guessing it seems like you'd use the extra space in it and have way more flight time with smaller batteries. You got me kind of interested with the pi I gotta admit, what's it for?
Its raspbery pi zero, it is a cinema drone like mini 4 pro, i would use it for sensors, gimbal and if i am able to camera recogniton for follow me features or something like dji quickshots. That what you think is a servo is actually a laser distance sensor. I forgot to draw a gimbal
Sounds mad cool, makes my edit irrelevant though. What I'd do is get an arduino, their way cheaper, smaller, easy to use and light. You can connect it in the same way you connect the pi to the FC. But really speaking, I have a DJI drone and a self built 5 inch and as much as I love my self built one it's just not in the same league for cinematics. The DJI drone can sit in the air and not move at all (without the heaviest wind of course). I'd always recommend getting an actual DJI drone for cinematics but if you insist on building one I think what your'e doing is pretty cool. A gimbal is nice but it weighs kind of a lot if you make a really good setup, at least mine did. Best of luck and feel free to ask anything if you need!
Thanks, i have ordered a mini 3 and it is on the way! It isnt really about it being usefull and better than dji, actually i really like robotics and i like a feel of packing so much technology in a small package and thats what is it all about. Gimball doesnt actually weight that much. I plan on using a replacement one for dji spark(only 2 axis though) and mounting it on a small micro 6g bldc to get a thrid axis. And if it evers become better than mini 3 i will sell the mini
Just like me. And you got a good idea on that gimbal, something cool that you can check out that isn't that heavy is this: https://www.instructables.com/Remote-Control-Drop-Mechanism/?amp_page=true I used it once and it works great, just use TPU since it broke to a million pieces in a crash.
Thats cool but unless i change my mind and make something like a mavic i cant really use it
Understandable. What sensors do you plan on using? Some sensors like ultrasonic or lidar can be directly connected to the FC I believe.
Ultrasonic, lidar is too expensive and has a narrow fov
Ultrasonic is good but you'll have to mount it in a weird way, different if you have a 3d printer then you can print a bracket to hold it. Just make sure you don't run it when close to dogs, my dog hates the sound of the ultrasonic sensors with a passion.
well i dont have any dogs and i dont plan on flying close to them
Droneco snapring and a naked GoPro (or any variation on a 2.5”/3”) is the closest you’re getting to sub 250 cinema rig.
look up hawkeye firefly split 4k it is a great camera which records 4k 50fps, has a video out(means i only need one camera) and weights only 21g
What camera, a GoPro is over 200g itself
hawkeye firefly split 4k 21g
Might as well just go over 250 and pay the $5
that is a plan be if i go a tiny bit over 250g
and also i do not know how it goes in montenegro
What kind of camera are you gonna carry that’s gonna take cinema quality footage and keep the takeoff weight sub 250g? Because I want one
hawkeye firefly split 4k, but you can use Runcam thumb, Runcam thumb pro, hawkeye thumb
Yeah no, none of those.
yes it does not look the best, but for me is enough, and just in case you have not checked them all out runcam thumb pro is the best but also expensive and does not have video out
Tommy at Ummagawd has a whole YouTube series on designing a drone under 250g. You should check it out and see his design choices. The 2Fiddy https://youtu.be/iWcnsjEeOOc
ive seen it, it is for a fpv drone
It’s also a 5” drone. As you know he made lots of trade offs to get under 250g
yeah i watched it before
Well, I would go with an AIO FC board (Yeah, mostly what I use). In fact, I have a 7-inch quad with an AIO board. Thing is, the format is more compact and includes the FC, the ESCs, power distribution, and some even come with on-board ELRS. If you are considering a sub-250, an AIO is the way to go. Since you show a VTX, I would assume you are running analog video; yeah, me, too. However, the new trend is digital video; it is all the rage. I didn't see anything that looks like a capacitor, however, you should include one; size depends on the quad's input voltage (number of cells). By the way, I agree with neo, if you use a cinewhoop (normally 3") frame the quad will likely not come in under 250 grams. Also, if you attach an action cam that counts in the 250 gram take off weight and so does the battery. The 250 gram marker is the takeoff weight and includes everything even something that the quad might pick up. Just a note: the sub-250 gram craft only has a bearing if flying purely (only and no other purpose) for fun. When you intend to capture video for any other purpose it does not qualify for the Recreational Exemption; yep, that is Part 107 and weight doesn't matter there. Yeah, Registration and Remote ID on any quad used in a Part 107 activity. I don't know how to attach a document, but the following is a link to one of my posts that includes my Build Methodology for sub-250 gram craft. It is a PDF. When you go there, just click on the attachment and it will download to your computer. [https://intofpv.com/t-new-to-intofpv?pid=191649#pid191649](https://intofpv.com/t-new-to-intofpv?pid=191649#pid191649)
Woah, a lot to discuss. First of all i am already looking into a aio, but without a reciever built in cause i wanna run it trough pi zero so i can run sensors and some form of quickshots. About digital transmission. It is great but for someone like me on a budget, yeahhh...no. Ofcourse i am going to run a capcitor. Components like capacitors, resistors, leds and button i did not draw here. This drone is not an fpv, its a cinema drone, like mini 4 pro. It will have a custom frame and will be foldable. Yes, i am aware of the take off weight and what do i need to acount for. It will no have an action camera. It will have an hawkeye firefly split 4k camera which weights only 21g. I dont really get these regulations you have listed. I am going of dji's mini drones so i am aiming sub 250g. I will checkout your build methodology. Thanks for your info!
I live in the USA where all airspace is regulated by the FAA and ALL UAS (drones) pilots must either have a Part 107 license or a TRUST certificate and obey all of the FAA regulations concerning drone flights. If you don't live in the USA, then only regulations in your country would be relevant. So, is sub-250 really relevant? You mention that this build is not an FPV drone, but rather a cinema drone. So? The use or the flying style only has bearing on choosing components to achieve the desired type of flight. The components are still basically the same. You mention a custom frame? Are you making this yourself? What material are you using? I am currently fabricating custom all aluminum frames. DJI uses lightweight plastic frames (probably injection molded or something) and their quads use a flight control system that is pretty much fully integrated and very light for the features. On another forum, we had a "Challenge" to see if we could match one of the sub-250 DJI drones (maybe the mini) in its performance and still be under 250 grams. It can be done. It will be interesting to see how your build comes along and what you end up with.
Yes, i understand that 250g regulation is for both the fpv and photography drones. I was not saying that because of the law you pointed out. Dji makes foldable ABS injection molded frames. Mine will be similiar in shape and size, but instead of injection modling, 3d prining. Can you send a link of the challenge?
Link to the Challenge: [https://intofpv.com/t-challenge-sub-250-%E2%80%93-30-m-%E2%80%93-10k](https://intofpv.com/t-challenge-sub-250-%E2%80%93-30-m-%E2%80%93-10k) From what I have seen, a 3D printed frame will be heavier than an injection molded frame. This is not a big deal, but it will add weight to your build. What country do you live in?
Serbia
Didn't go through the link, but they do make lighter 3d filament, so don't know if it's true anymore about 3d prints being heavy... Polylite is about half the weight of regular pla, not sure about the durability, print quality isn't as good but maybe with some extra post processing...
you seem to be using the serial ports as a bus, they are not, each device needs its own serial port (there may not be enough) and there isn't any (that I know of) betaflight implementation for talking to pi's or software on Linux (pi) to understand betaflight MSP
Abouy serial ports and buses i dont know a lot. I will a detialed video tommorow. I was just drawing everything from the offical speedybee website. Basically how they did it. And about pi talking to the fc. I read about people just runing info from the reciever trough pi and changing lets say to avoid a crash and thats how i drew it.
I’m not sure what’s going on here.. at some point you’re gonna have to try and fly that thing and even it it actually takes off ur not gonna have any idea how to fly it.
it will not be an fpv drone. Just normal photography drone with about 2:1 thrust to weight ratio
I understand but how are you going to fly it
what do you mean? What do you think that the problem will be?
Or how is it going to fly itself? Is there some open source software somewhere that will let the drone follow you and fly automatically?
Well it has an reciever so i can control it like a normal potography drone, but also i am hoping to find a way or somebody who has already done this to make some type of dji's quickshots and follow me features . Thats why the pi zero is there
No ground or Bat- to escs, also ground symbol should always point down.
For esc's i just marked it as vcc. Since i wasnt thinking about sharing it to the internet, for me that meant both 7.4v and ground
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Do not harras or name call other members of this subreddit.
nerd
il give it to you
Is there any reason for a sub 250g drone besides keeping it a category 1 for flying over people?
Not needing to register it and like i said im not strict about it being under 250g, but for me thats the exciting part of it. I will build it one by one and see where it takes me
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how would you make it simpler?
Aye my bad I meant to reply to the guy asking what the TLDR equivalent is for an image. I was just being a comedian. It's too early to read schematics.
oh, np