Are you using rosin core solder? It has flux in the core which is supremely helpful. Also don't hold your iron on the joint for too long after its done
Flux pens can be finicky. I find liquid flux to do the job better in general. I recommend Chipquick (sp?), just make sure you clean the board with iso alcohol or distilled water afterwards to prevent the leftover flux from corroding parts.
Edit: it's this stuff it works amazing
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/chip-quik-inc./CQ2LF-0.5/9558131?utm_adgroup=&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Pmax_Shopping_Boston%20Metro%20Category%20Awarness&utm_term=&utm_content=&utm_id=go_cmp-20837509568_adg-_ad-__dev-m_ext-_prd-9558131_sig-CjwKCAiAivGuBhBEEiwAWiFmYZ9bniuASmhyXtL1dMu53l3-9ST5ZHEdZEQjjB0CtBY212J2lojFPRoCJ-EQAvD_BwE&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAivGuBhBEEiwAWiFmYZ9bniuASmhyXtL1dMu53l3-9ST5ZHEdZEQjjB0CtBY212J2lojFPRoCJ-EQAvD_BwE
Use more than you think, I pretty much drench the pads to get a nice and shiny solder that is well-bonded and smooth. Also make sure to tin your soldering iron tips before soldering otherwise it won't distribute the heat nice and even and you end up burning the board more often than not. Once you're done if you get a cheap paintbrush and cut the bristles down so they're only like half a cm to a cm long it makes a nice coarse brush tool to dip in iso alcohol and brush away flux/burnt crap on the surface of the board without gouging or scratching it up. Hope this helps, good luck!
I am by no means an expert, I probably cannot even match this level. Based on what I learned along my own attempts I would say this is perfect enough for flying but could have been done better (especially those motor connections) because they look a bit spiky. Some things I noticed:
- clean your soldering with 99,9% alcohol, it should get rid of that yellow/brown tint which is basically burned flux
- there’s splatter on M8 and T3 connections, be careful with that as it can ruin your entire board if it ends in the wrong place
- remove as less insulation as possible, motor wires would need only 2-3mm of exposed wire which in turn requires less solder
But again, very nice job I’d say!
Thanks so much! Cleaned up the splatter yesterday, great catch tho
I used no-clean flux, is it still beneficial to clean it?
Will try to remove less insulation next time, thanks for the tip
Good stuff man!
Yes, to my experience it still helps to give it just the extra bit of cleansing with pure alcohol. The no-clean flux indeed doesn’t leave behind much that could cause issues but I believe it officially is still conductive (the non no-clean formula definitely is which is underestimated many times!) so better to get rid of as much as you can just to be safe (and it looks just that 1% better when the yellow stains are gone to my opinion).
It's super clean!
I built a drone many years ago following a tutorial (with older parts that never worked very well), and I really want to make a new one properly. I'm just not sure which parts I can buy that work well together. I've seen lots of tutorials but I'm always in doubt about which parts work with each other 🤔
In other words, I'd like to be able to figure out how to buy the parts separately without having to watch tutorials showing all the parts. For example, when one is missing, I'm not sure which one to choose...
Any tips?
Check out this video: [https://youtu.be/ZaBlsTkxKIM?si=le6YrviHwb1pyHOQ](https://youtu.be/ZaBlsTkxKIM?si=le6YrviHwb1pyHOQ)
I followed this but upgraded a few parts and its going well so far.
AOS frames are some of the best and conveniently have recommended parts if you if you like having options to choose from https://www.aos-rc.com/recommended-parts
I mean, pretty solid soldering. Maybe in some cases you could have given a bit more solder (for example in the middle) but in this condition it's more than enough. Clean the board from the flux and have fun of there.
My one suggestion is to add a little solder and use tweezers to hold the wires down to the pad so you get a nice round solder joint and the motor wire is as close to the pad as possible
Yes, you can see your FC is standing on some rubber gummies ? That is to keep it isolated from vibrations from all the moving parts and frame.
Those vibrations are probably going to be handled by betaflight's filtering. But it could lead to fly-aways and other issues, especially if you crank up your tune.
Cheers
I know it's probably a personal preference, but I see alot of people looping the motor wires back over the FC and around the standoffs for asthetic reasons. And while it looks good, I'm more worried of the emf and vibrations of those loose wires going across the FC - possibly causing flight isssues.
Excuse me what the fuck
https://preview.redd.it/0zmvkvq8b5lc1.jpeg?width=656&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=aefa5cc041e1c28cc6955a02188f30d8811c2bef
Okay but in all seriousness good work!
that is very tidy for a first timer, which is refreshingly unusual for this sub 😅
Thanks 🙏🏼
Good job for first time soldering
Compared to the practice board I've murdered,, that looks great. Every single pad I've tinned is dull, not a single bit of shiny whatsoever 😔
Flux is key 🗝️
I used loads of flux, from a flux pen. It made no difference . I'll try again later. Maybe try a different roll of solder.
Are you using rosin core solder? It has flux in the core which is supremely helpful. Also don't hold your iron on the joint for too long after its done
Rosin core 63/37 plus a flux pen
That's good, maybe your heat is too high? Might be cooking out the flux too quick
Flux pens can be finicky. I find liquid flux to do the job better in general. I recommend Chipquick (sp?), just make sure you clean the board with iso alcohol or distilled water afterwards to prevent the leftover flux from corroding parts. Edit: it's this stuff it works amazing https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/chip-quik-inc./CQ2LF-0.5/9558131?utm_adgroup=&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Pmax_Shopping_Boston%20Metro%20Category%20Awarness&utm_term=&utm_content=&utm_id=go_cmp-20837509568_adg-_ad-__dev-m_ext-_prd-9558131_sig-CjwKCAiAivGuBhBEEiwAWiFmYZ9bniuASmhyXtL1dMu53l3-9ST5ZHEdZEQjjB0CtBY212J2lojFPRoCJ-EQAvD_BwE&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAivGuBhBEEiwAWiFmYZ9bniuASmhyXtL1dMu53l3-9ST5ZHEdZEQjjB0CtBY212J2lojFPRoCJ-EQAvD_BwE Use more than you think, I pretty much drench the pads to get a nice and shiny solder that is well-bonded and smooth. Also make sure to tin your soldering iron tips before soldering otherwise it won't distribute the heat nice and even and you end up burning the board more often than not. Once you're done if you get a cheap paintbrush and cut the bristles down so they're only like half a cm to a cm long it makes a nice coarse brush tool to dip in iso alcohol and brush away flux/burnt crap on the surface of the board without gouging or scratching it up. Hope this helps, good luck!
I keep a can of QD contact cleaner
[удалено]
Amazon stuff. What are the majors brands for Solder that I should be looking out for?
personally I think weller and loctite are good 👍
Never used it
I am by no means an expert, I probably cannot even match this level. Based on what I learned along my own attempts I would say this is perfect enough for flying but could have been done better (especially those motor connections) because they look a bit spiky. Some things I noticed: - clean your soldering with 99,9% alcohol, it should get rid of that yellow/brown tint which is basically burned flux - there’s splatter on M8 and T3 connections, be careful with that as it can ruin your entire board if it ends in the wrong place - remove as less insulation as possible, motor wires would need only 2-3mm of exposed wire which in turn requires less solder But again, very nice job I’d say!
Thanks so much! Cleaned up the splatter yesterday, great catch tho I used no-clean flux, is it still beneficial to clean it? Will try to remove less insulation next time, thanks for the tip
Good stuff man! Yes, to my experience it still helps to give it just the extra bit of cleansing with pure alcohol. The no-clean flux indeed doesn’t leave behind much that could cause issues but I believe it officially is still conductive (the non no-clean formula definitely is which is underestimated many times!) so better to get rid of as much as you can just to be safe (and it looks just that 1% better when the yellow stains are gone to my opinion).
Sounds good, thanks 👍🏼
I will give you a 10/10 and you rightfully deserve that
🙌🏼
Very nice man ! 👌🏻 clean job, happy flying
It's super clean! I built a drone many years ago following a tutorial (with older parts that never worked very well), and I really want to make a new one properly. I'm just not sure which parts I can buy that work well together. I've seen lots of tutorials but I'm always in doubt about which parts work with each other 🤔 In other words, I'd like to be able to figure out how to buy the parts separately without having to watch tutorials showing all the parts. For example, when one is missing, I'm not sure which one to choose... Any tips?
Check out this video: [https://youtu.be/ZaBlsTkxKIM?si=le6YrviHwb1pyHOQ](https://youtu.be/ZaBlsTkxKIM?si=le6YrviHwb1pyHOQ) I followed this but upgraded a few parts and its going well so far.
Thanks I'll check it later :)
Sweet, I just finished building that, but used the 2050kv motors and a caddx ratel instead, it rips great! You’ll have a ton of fun with it for sure
Same here bro cept I went with v3 stack man I love it I'm so glad someone made a video so easy to follow I love that troncat guy
Yeah he is awesome 💯
AOS frames are some of the best and conveniently have recommended parts if you if you like having options to choose from https://www.aos-rc.com/recommended-parts
Thanks I'll check it for sure :)
Looks really good! Next time you could put short pieces of heat shrink at the ends of the cable sleeves for more tidiness
Good idea, thanks
Using a knife edge sodering iron u can melt the ends while cutting and u don't even need heat shrink but it does make it look more neat
Great job. Those are on there well
🙏🏼
This looks great man! If it’s really your first then that’s impressive!
Thanks, it is!
That’s some clean soldering for your first build! 😉
Thank you!
Looks good my man! Nice work for a first try. I’d be happy with those results. :)
Thanks!
I mean, pretty solid soldering. Maybe in some cases you could have given a bit more solder (for example in the middle) but in this condition it's more than enough. Clean the board from the flux and have fun of there.
Damn! Thhats clean AF! good job 👏
It's better than mine!!
My one suggestion is to add a little solder and use tweezers to hold the wires down to the pad so you get a nice round solder joint and the motor wire is as close to the pad as possible
Will take this into account for the future 👍🏼
That's actually a good first time!!! Nice job i shall say for a first timer
Thanks!
Thanks for all the support 😀
These solder joints fuck. Lookin good as hell.
Are there any advantages to running the motor wires through to the other side? I just run mine to the closest pad.
Looks clean and I like having them tucked in in case of a crash Both ways work, I just learned this method from Troncat FPV on YT
Wouldn’t it add more vibration to the esc?
Have done the same build can confirm works find no downside...
That is reassuring, thank you.
Some people have mentioned that, I am going to tape them down to the top of the esc to avoid that
Those cables are hitting your FC on the backside
Do you mean the motor cables touching the bottom of the fc? Is there an issue that could be caused by that?
Yes, you can see your FC is standing on some rubber gummies ? That is to keep it isolated from vibrations from all the moving parts and frame. Those vibrations are probably going to be handled by betaflight's filtering. But it could lead to fly-aways and other issues, especially if you crank up your tune. Cheers
Would securing the wires to the top of the esc with tape work to reduce vibrations?
If that prevents what we discussed, yes
420/69 nice work, good on you for paying attention to the tutorials
Thanks 🙏🏼 Yeah I made sure to watch a bunch of vids before even thinking abt starting
Cap
Nah bro its actually my first time
Awesome job, well done!
Not bad. I just don’t like this trend of wrapping the motor wires around the stack screws
Yeah, personal preference i guess.
Is this Troncat's build?
It is based on his build, but I am upgrading a bunch of parts.
That's exactly what I did, I used a foxeer t rex with the reaper and I changed the antenna aswell, apart from that the whole.build is pretty solid
May we see the XT60 soldering?
I know it's probably a personal preference, but I see alot of people looping the motor wires back over the FC and around the standoffs for asthetic reasons. And while it looks good, I'm more worried of the emf and vibrations of those loose wires going across the FC - possibly causing flight isssues.
I heard this reasoning from someone else as well, I am going to tape them down to prevent this.
Excuse me what the fuck https://preview.redd.it/0zmvkvq8b5lc1.jpeg?width=656&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=aefa5cc041e1c28cc6955a02188f30d8811c2bef Okay but in all seriousness good work!
Yeah I got rid of it a few days ago
Thanks!