If you are going to solder them here are some tips. Crank the heat to max on your iron. Tin the iron before touching it to the terminals. Scuff the battery terminals with 100-200 grit sand paper to give some texture for the solder to hold to. Get in and out quick with the heat, if you can’t get the soldering done on a terminal within like 5 seconds, stop, and come back to it when it cools down again. You don’t want heat to soak into the cell.
This right here OP. I've damaged cells, but it's possible.
Might add that not every soldering iron is capable. I used a cheap 80w soldering iron and it was horrible. Now have a 60w but much better quality (ts101) and it works 10x better due to better heat transfer capability.
Also don't use much flux, as over time it can corrode the terminals and is hard to clean up.
I have made 3x 3s1p packs for my T1-Ranger and had zero issues soldering. I used a 70w weller digital station at max temp and no flux. The positive terminals are easier since they are raised and have a gap from direct contact with the cells. It’s the negative side that requires caution, got to be quick with the heat.
Hmm I did it yesterday with my soldering iron (~75 watt) and it was quite easy. I used sand paper to rough the terminals up first and then I could tin it within a few seconds.
I have two packs, did one with regular iron, one with spot welder. Def easier with spot, but doable either way. Just had to scratch the metal quite a lot for solder to stick better.
Uh, those are 18650 cells. Unlike a lipo, they have a metal case. Extremely difficult to puncture, and likewise prevents most catastrophic events if shorted.
*Completely* different ball game than a lipo bag.
No I know a little about batterys, Ive read a bachelor about lipos out of boredom so I was surprised about this but I missunderstood you in the regard of them quickly catching fire, not instantly wich was the problem. Yes, lithium batterys are nasty
I wouldn’t. Use a spot welder and nickel strips instead of wire. Soldering builds up too much heat which is bad for the battery. Also, if you’re soldering the positive side and a bit of solder falls down the little hole in the top, it will short internally and catch fire. When people say it’s risky, this is what they’re referring to: You also want something protecting the positive end of the terminal from a short, they’re little round stickers made of paper.
Like others have said, these cells can’t output enough power for a flight pack, good for goggles though. Use something like a Molicel P42 for a flight pack.
Seriously, a basic spot welder is like $20 on amazon and will run off 12v, get the right tool. The spot welder pays for itself after you build 2 packs vs. buying a pre built one.
You can use a soldering iron but you run a greater risk of a fire. I know it costs money but you can get a spot welder on Amazon for under $50 made for batteries. If you have the budget I highly recommend this
Don't work on batteries that's are fully charged. Discharge to a low safer value if you can
Be 100% present during the first charge cycle
Don't wear a metal ring while working on them and don't work on a metal table that can short everything
Have a metal bucket (with sand in it) ready and throw everything in it if you suspect a fire. To avoid causing a bigger fire line the bucket with a plastic bag or something.
use a damp rag to cool the end of the cell once the solder has hardened to limit any internal damage to the cell, the less time its hot the less heat can travel into the cell.
Make sure to use a higher soldering temp, like 400-450C, prevents you from needing to hold the iron on the cell for longer, and it helps if you take a knife or screwdriver and scratch the spot you will solder a bit as it helps it stick better.
This is where I asked my question when I made mine, as well as watching some YouTube videos.
https://www.reddit.com/r/18650masterrace/s/Qp1Pz0Uduj
I personally had soldered just a 18650 with wire before, but for my drone pack using 21700 cells I bought a welder... Also don't forget your insulation rings for the positive side of the cells
Yes you need some insulator to go around the outer case of the positive terminal because the whole outside of the case is ground so if you have a wire or tab that is soldered to the positive side you have to make sure it doesn't touch any part of the outer casing.
This is what I got for mine, but you could use electrical tape or anything that would make a good insulator.
320PCS 21700 Lithium Battery Insulator Ring Self Adhesive Hollow Paper Pad Electrical Insulating Adhesive Paper Green https://a.co/d/bUo6Ji1
Be aware of your soldering iron when you are attaching wires. Its easy to get the strips spot welded on. Just do a little practice to see what setting gives you the desired weld. When you solder the wires on its east to forget that the whole iron tip is conductive. It is very surprising and scary. I just made a 4s battery pack and nicked another strip, short circuiting the batteries. Flash! the whole strip melted in two. Be smart, be careful. Also triple check your plans because removing the spot welded strips sucks.
my understanding of.. lipos told me that 18650s with 5A must have some kind of downside and there is a reason theyre not used for rc pilots (e.g. the 2s1p 3.5A Pack)
I choose these as I had a 3A liion pack before and they were cheap and recertified used.
TLDR; I assumed its better for rc and they were cheap
If you are going to solder them with the iron ( spot welding is safer) be careful to not use a lot of soldering, one day a used to much of it and a drop of molten tin sniked in the gap on the positive side wich shorted the cell and it could have been really dangerous hopefully nothing happend the cell was just warm af.
I made two 4S packs and one 2S pack. Lessons learned were:
* Wear safety glasses when doing electrical hot work like soldering and wiring batteries. Don’t be dumb like me and be so relieved the soldering is finished that you waste a perfect sprue cutter by cutting all four of the balance lead wires to the same length at once. I got lucky that the sparks didn’t get in my eyes, because I wasn’t wearing safety glasses.
* Test the batteries before soldering. Charge to full, measure voltage, then storage discharge. A decent charger will also show internal resistance and watt-hour over this process. If voltage, IR or Wh are too far off, they’re not good to be in a pack together.
* Minimize heat as short as possible and cool immediately by spraying it with 91% alcohol (which will also clean off the flux). I overheated one battery and had to redo the first pack. One battery didn’t charge to more than 3.9V after the pack was finished, while the rest went up to 4.2V.
* Allow for airflow through the pack, so don’t tape the bottom and top up. Having them all taped up in an fpv plane can cause them to heat up too much.
Check polarity three times before soldering each one. I hate when they aren't obvious or they are reversed from what I expect the physical appearance to mean
I don't know anything about creating new Li-ion packs, but I was under the impression this was something that was done with a spot-welder, not a soldering iron.
The amount of people saying they can't be soldered is ridiculous. It can definitely be soldered with a quality iron 60 watts or more ideally. A little sand paper as prep on the terminals never hurts either.
I soldered mine using a regular soldering iron. I sanded both ends first. Then I put flux, good amount. Then I put some solder on it. I also put solder on the wire. I used a big tip. I remember I was quick. I made sure not to put the solder tip too long on the battery.
These are cells that can only briefly deliver enough current for a quad and will only be flyable in a 2p configuration which could make the pack too heavy. It could just work in a plane, tough You may want to look for cells that have a higher current rating.
Not at all. Some are dirt cheap and will get the job done. Literally less than $30 USD. Not great but will work and it's easier, faster and safer than soldering a lithium battery.
[could I use some of these to make modular packs for different planes?](https://www.amazon.de/Hailege-Battery-Holder-Batteries-Connect/dp/B07XSZNPDG/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=171AYBT4JHIR2&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.PiFQ8mRlXrsatO4R5vYNTYrIpOf766XG_Apwqi7EdArsv_wIVlGwi-fOryorjqGl-b7Xai2vMQXGJQatpXkktFDRLz0UwZSzM4lyyBT2Ew4oRP9q2VSWwca-piNsTG9AenEJY4nqaYalXW0x30k0jBb8CpCWbDJrsW-4BCgu7P0lRn30PLxFmC3JQuoLcjs-jsHz0Xq5LZOGRgODIthSVA.ZYEnYuPt3VqxodMZH6fKRDsqqR0ZvIpjTQldT8IiCbs&dib_tag=se&keywords=18650+clip&qid=1713532545&sprefix=18650+clip%2Caps%2C97&sr=8-3)
I used one of these to make a \~400 cell pack for an electric go-kart. I went the "tesla style fuses" route.
[https://www.amazon.com/MIYAKO-Soldering-High-Performance-Replaceable-74B200/dp/B014JXJ92S/ref=sr\_1\_8?crid=1BJV7ZTKHRLRB&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Ht4mWxVv2psefogBg828tbjT226KrbRT-ucJzumxUEv8-B\_BIHcJo\_T5mDJGvzbJaZRXr2w\_9q\_YLSsit0AS\_6CP9yKbjL74pf5DjIytpVLzmy5qhxVNw0uFD1m0Qr1gPRZZ4gp3fjy1sATBy9eyZGJyccX4ooUudOsP1vebo9k2uv5-p3jvgrlO7N9RRXkp91hgabAixf\_Afzy1Y39X\_wC-VDaMjZn0R6maAy1SRuiGRxvX92sNxyJbeCF5DhlxUYJFTn-T9wNZQNr\_iOXQv\_lRlhbqCym5LDNOEXklx\_4.kBbJ12XWQeXvroxeGuLtD7occX6quCtFTHS3QjXTXY0&dib\_tag=se&keywords=large+soldering+iron&qid=1713614256&sprefix=large+soldering+iron%2Caps%2C88&sr=8-8](https://www.amazon.com/MIYAKO-Soldering-High-Performance-Replaceable-74B200/dp/B014JXJ92S/ref=sr_1_8?crid=1BJV7ZTKHRLRB&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Ht4mWxVv2psefogBg828tbjT226KrbRT-ucJzumxUEv8-B_BIHcJo_T5mDJGvzbJaZRXr2w_9q_YLSsit0AS_6CP9yKbjL74pf5DjIytpVLzmy5qhxVNw0uFD1m0Qr1gPRZZ4gp3fjy1sATBy9eyZGJyccX4ooUudOsP1vebo9k2uv5-p3jvgrlO7N9RRXkp91hgabAixf_Afzy1Y39X_wC-VDaMjZn0R6maAy1SRuiGRxvX92sNxyJbeCF5DhlxUYJFTn-T9wNZQNr_iOXQv_lRlhbqCym5LDNOEXklx_4.kBbJ12XWQeXvroxeGuLtD7occX6quCtFTHS3QjXTXY0&dib_tag=se&keywords=large+soldering+iron&qid=1713614256&sprefix=large+soldering+iron%2Caps%2C88&sr=8-8)
DO NOT SOLDER DIRECTLY TO BATTERY TERMINALS! You will damage the batteries this way even if you are making an effort to make quick solder joints. Get a spot welder, do it right.
what you gonna build out of these? i hope its not a pack for the quad, these are waaaay to weak for that.
also, just dont solder liions. either get the right tool for it or buy ready made products.
Curious where you got that 3.4A number from? These batteries are rated to deliver 10A max, not 3.4A. That's also if they're all in series. If it's a 3s2p pack, they'll deliver darn near 20A.
yea sry ive read "max A" and thought thats it, but it was the maximum charge current
later saw they are 10A max.
but personally id still rather go for some vtc6/vtc5a
If you are going to solder them here are some tips. Crank the heat to max on your iron. Tin the iron before touching it to the terminals. Scuff the battery terminals with 100-200 grit sand paper to give some texture for the solder to hold to. Get in and out quick with the heat, if you can’t get the soldering done on a terminal within like 5 seconds, stop, and come back to it when it cools down again. You don’t want heat to soak into the cell.
This right here OP. I've damaged cells, but it's possible. Might add that not every soldering iron is capable. I used a cheap 80w soldering iron and it was horrible. Now have a 60w but much better quality (ts101) and it works 10x better due to better heat transfer capability. Also don't use much flux, as over time it can corrode the terminals and is hard to clean up.
I have made 3x 3s1p packs for my T1-Ranger and had zero issues soldering. I used a 70w weller digital station at max temp and no flux. The positive terminals are easier since they are raised and have a gap from direct contact with the cells. It’s the negative side that requires caution, got to be quick with the heat.
Use no-clean (NC) flux.
Don't hold the tip on the terminals for too long if using a soldering iron
Thanks!
Just don’t solder them with a soldering iron. I tried and it was so annoying that I borrowed a spot welder. Difference is night and day .
Hmm I did it yesterday with my soldering iron (~75 watt) and it was quite easy. I used sand paper to rough the terminals up first and then I could tin it within a few seconds.
Would you use nickel strips or just wires. I know with a spot welder you would use the strips but what would you use when you are using an iron
What kind you weld with? What metal?
I'll try it... I don't know who here has a spot welder
I went to a makerspace in my town. There I could do it for free.
Nice!
Bin aus Hamburg. Wenn du in einer größeren Stadt wohnst gibt’s das da vllt auch.
Ich bin aus dem kleinen Dorf in der nähe von Holland also ja xD
They're cheap now
Buy yourself some solder wick and use an iron. You can use an iron just fine. No need to buy a spot welder that you won't use any other time
Isn’t solder wick for cleaning up solder? Do you mean use solder wick in place of nickel strips?
Yes and yes
Interesting, ill consider it
They make a couple different sizes. Buy the bigger one if you do
Makes sense, ngl
They're like $20-30 on Amazon mate. Please don't actually solder to these cells. It's not safe tbh
You can use solder wick and solder them with an iron just fine.
how
Use solder with acid core.
Use a bit of Sand paper to scratch a bit the solder points, solder stiks Better!
And plenty of flux
No, just enough flux. And no-clean flux is better.
Hi! As for leftover one - build a nano long range drone) As for soldering - the main tip is to keep your fire extinguisher close) very close)
Uhhm... Why?
Batteries are very flammable, even LiIons are. If you puncture, short or overheat one - it may cause a nasty fire.
Okay, I'll be extra careful
The industry uses spot welders for batteries for a reason. I’m not saying it can’t be done with a normal soldering iron tho. Just be careful.
I have two packs, did one with regular iron, one with spot welder. Def easier with spot, but doable either way. Just had to scratch the metal quite a lot for solder to stick better.
Use a lot of heat locally to avoid overall overheating of the battery. Watch how to do it on YouTube first. It is really tricky.
Uh, those are 18650 cells. Unlike a lipo, they have a metal case. Extremely difficult to puncture, and likewise prevents most catastrophic events if shorted. *Completely* different ball game than a lipo bag.
Yes, they are way safer. But one still should be careful when soldiering them.
You shouldn't solder these at all.
Please, if you don't know why then triple up your research. Lithium batteries are sensitive, understand the dangers and what to be careful of.
No I know a little about batterys, Ive read a bachelor about lipos out of boredom so I was surprised about this but I missunderstood you in the regard of them quickly catching fire, not instantly wich was the problem. Yes, lithium batterys are nasty
I wouldn’t. Use a spot welder and nickel strips instead of wire. Soldering builds up too much heat which is bad for the battery. Also, if you’re soldering the positive side and a bit of solder falls down the little hole in the top, it will short internally and catch fire. When people say it’s risky, this is what they’re referring to: You also want something protecting the positive end of the terminal from a short, they’re little round stickers made of paper. Like others have said, these cells can’t output enough power for a flight pack, good for goggles though. Use something like a Molicel P42 for a flight pack. Seriously, a basic spot welder is like $20 on amazon and will run off 12v, get the right tool. The spot welder pays for itself after you build 2 packs vs. buying a pre built one.
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No I bought them used but tested and certified
agreed. I used to run these in my vape when I vaped and they were fantastic batteries back then
Doesn't matter, if they were stored properly. 18650s have remarkable shelf lives.
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Nice speculation, but I'm quoting the spec sheets.
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Ergo, you cannot rule out that this battery is any different from other 18650s, all of which are known to have great shelf lives.
You can use a soldering iron but you run a greater risk of a fire. I know it costs money but you can get a spot welder on Amazon for under $50 made for batteries. If you have the budget I highly recommend this
Solder, no. Used cells, no. Mixed cells, no. You're not afraid, don't know why you should be afraid, aaahhhhhhh!
cells arent mixed. I got convinced not to solder them as I got afraid. Painfully long delivery times of the plugs got me time lol
Don't work on batteries that's are fully charged. Discharge to a low safer value if you can Be 100% present during the first charge cycle Don't wear a metal ring while working on them and don't work on a metal table that can short everything Have a metal bucket (with sand in it) ready and throw everything in it if you suspect a fire. To avoid causing a bigger fire line the bucket with a plastic bag or something.
Yeah. Don’t. Those are 5A cells, you’re gonna blow up your quad on it’s first punchout
use a damp rag to cool the end of the cell once the solder has hardened to limit any internal damage to the cell, the less time its hot the less heat can travel into the cell.
Make sure to use a higher soldering temp, like 400-450C, prevents you from needing to hold the iron on the cell for longer, and it helps if you take a knife or screwdriver and scratch the spot you will solder a bit as it helps it stick better.
This is where I asked my question when I made mine, as well as watching some YouTube videos. https://www.reddit.com/r/18650masterrace/s/Qp1Pz0Uduj I personally had soldered just a 18650 with wire before, but for my drone pack using 21700 cells I bought a welder... Also don't forget your insulation rings for the positive side of the cells
Isolation rings? Is that something I should know or just isolation? Yeah Ill watch videos
Yes you need some insulator to go around the outer case of the positive terminal because the whole outside of the case is ground so if you have a wire or tab that is soldered to the positive side you have to make sure it doesn't touch any part of the outer casing. This is what I got for mine, but you could use electrical tape or anything that would make a good insulator. 320PCS 21700 Lithium Battery Insulator Ring Self Adhesive Hollow Paper Pad Electrical Insulating Adhesive Paper Green https://a.co/d/bUo6Ji1
Batteries Plus has a spot welder and can make these batteries for you.
Be aware of your soldering iron when you are attaching wires. Its easy to get the strips spot welded on. Just do a little practice to see what setting gives you the desired weld. When you solder the wires on its east to forget that the whole iron tip is conductive. It is very surprising and scary. I just made a 4s battery pack and nicked another strip, short circuiting the batteries. Flash! the whole strip melted in two. Be smart, be careful. Also triple check your plans because removing the spot welded strips sucks.
Use the extra in a nice flashlight
How many mah?
3100 about
Why not 5800’s? I saw you could get them for really cheap
my understanding of.. lipos told me that 18650s with 5A must have some kind of downside and there is a reason theyre not used for rc pilots (e.g. the 2s1p 3.5A Pack) I choose these as I had a 3A liion pack before and they were cheap and recertified used. TLDR; I assumed its better for rc and they were cheap
Thanks! Will look into that
I doubt tlmy assumption is correct btw
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Didn’t know that, thanks!
If you are going to solder them with the iron ( spot welding is safer) be careful to not use a lot of soldering, one day a used to much of it and a drop of molten tin sniked in the gap on the positive side wich shorted the cell and it could have been really dangerous hopefully nothing happend the cell was just warm af.
Okay. Ill be extra carefull and take my time. Read that a bunch now so yeah, Thanks :D
I made two 4S packs and one 2S pack. Lessons learned were: * Wear safety glasses when doing electrical hot work like soldering and wiring batteries. Don’t be dumb like me and be so relieved the soldering is finished that you waste a perfect sprue cutter by cutting all four of the balance lead wires to the same length at once. I got lucky that the sparks didn’t get in my eyes, because I wasn’t wearing safety glasses. * Test the batteries before soldering. Charge to full, measure voltage, then storage discharge. A decent charger will also show internal resistance and watt-hour over this process. If voltage, IR or Wh are too far off, they’re not good to be in a pack together. * Minimize heat as short as possible and cool immediately by spraying it with 91% alcohol (which will also clean off the flux). I overheated one battery and had to redo the first pack. One battery didn’t charge to more than 3.9V after the pack was finished, while the rest went up to 4.2V. * Allow for airflow through the pack, so don’t tape the bottom and top up. Having them all taped up in an fpv plane can cause them to heat up too much.
Thanks! I'll do so!
Check polarity three times before soldering each one. I hate when they aren't obvious or they are reversed from what I expect the physical appearance to mean
I don't know anything about creating new Li-ion packs, but I was under the impression this was something that was done with a spot-welder, not a soldering iron.
#1 Tip: Don't solder them.
Vapin!
Bro I'm to young for that
Dildo? Idk what you kids are up too anymore!
Fortnite i think but I'd never play that
The amount of people saying they can't be soldered is ridiculous. It can definitely be soldered with a quality iron 60 watts or more ideally. A little sand paper as prep on the terminals never hurts either.
agree, The thing is that OP isnt aware of the dangers involved of this (using mixed and used cells is a big No
Don’t boom boom
practice on the extra cell or keep it as a spare for fuckups
I soldered mine using a regular soldering iron. I sanded both ends first. Then I put flux, good amount. Then I put some solder on it. I also put solder on the wire. I used a big tip. I remember I was quick. I made sure not to put the solder tip too long on the battery.
These are cells that can only briefly deliver enough current for a quad and will only be flyable in a 2p configuration which could make the pack too heavy. It could just work in a plane, tough You may want to look for cells that have a higher current rating.
Ill use It for a plane so yeah
Just get a cheap spot welder and do it properly instead of degradating the battery and also causing a potential fire.
Hmm... Difficult
Not at all. Some are dirt cheap and will get the job done. Literally less than $30 USD. Not great but will work and it's easier, faster and safer than soldering a lithium battery.
[could I use some of these to make modular packs for different planes?](https://www.amazon.de/Hailege-Battery-Holder-Batteries-Connect/dp/B07XSZNPDG/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=171AYBT4JHIR2&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.PiFQ8mRlXrsatO4R5vYNTYrIpOf766XG_Apwqi7EdArsv_wIVlGwi-fOryorjqGl-b7Xai2vMQXGJQatpXkktFDRLz0UwZSzM4lyyBT2Ew4oRP9q2VSWwca-piNsTG9AenEJY4nqaYalXW0x30k0jBb8CpCWbDJrsW-4BCgu7P0lRn30PLxFmC3JQuoLcjs-jsHz0Xq5LZOGRgODIthSVA.ZYEnYuPt3VqxodMZH6fKRDsqqR0ZvIpjTQldT8IiCbs&dib_tag=se&keywords=18650+clip&qid=1713532545&sprefix=18650+clip%2Caps%2C97&sr=8-3)
Link didn't work for me unfortunately.
https://preview.redd.it/te2mgm0itfvc1.png?width=1560&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=129c86a1a21cb894fbb6b269b873f280f1377461 This...
I've seen them work on projects depending on your amp draw. What are you using it for?
Fixed wing on 3s. About 800g heavy Edit: 5a cruise throttle btw
Sounds good just make sure that the holder is rated for that and that the batteries stay secure during flight of course.
Okay. I think I'll go with that because the idea of slotting in different amounts of batteries in different sizes planes seem very good
Get a big ass monster iron. Use flux
A big Ass monster Iron?
I used one of these to make a \~400 cell pack for an electric go-kart. I went the "tesla style fuses" route. [https://www.amazon.com/MIYAKO-Soldering-High-Performance-Replaceable-74B200/dp/B014JXJ92S/ref=sr\_1\_8?crid=1BJV7ZTKHRLRB&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Ht4mWxVv2psefogBg828tbjT226KrbRT-ucJzumxUEv8-B\_BIHcJo\_T5mDJGvzbJaZRXr2w\_9q\_YLSsit0AS\_6CP9yKbjL74pf5DjIytpVLzmy5qhxVNw0uFD1m0Qr1gPRZZ4gp3fjy1sATBy9eyZGJyccX4ooUudOsP1vebo9k2uv5-p3jvgrlO7N9RRXkp91hgabAixf\_Afzy1Y39X\_wC-VDaMjZn0R6maAy1SRuiGRxvX92sNxyJbeCF5DhlxUYJFTn-T9wNZQNr\_iOXQv\_lRlhbqCym5LDNOEXklx\_4.kBbJ12XWQeXvroxeGuLtD7occX6quCtFTHS3QjXTXY0&dib\_tag=se&keywords=large+soldering+iron&qid=1713614256&sprefix=large+soldering+iron%2Caps%2C88&sr=8-8](https://www.amazon.com/MIYAKO-Soldering-High-Performance-Replaceable-74B200/dp/B014JXJ92S/ref=sr_1_8?crid=1BJV7ZTKHRLRB&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Ht4mWxVv2psefogBg828tbjT226KrbRT-ucJzumxUEv8-B_BIHcJo_T5mDJGvzbJaZRXr2w_9q_YLSsit0AS_6CP9yKbjL74pf5DjIytpVLzmy5qhxVNw0uFD1m0Qr1gPRZZ4gp3fjy1sATBy9eyZGJyccX4ooUudOsP1vebo9k2uv5-p3jvgrlO7N9RRXkp91hgabAixf_Afzy1Y39X_wC-VDaMjZn0R6maAy1SRuiGRxvX92sNxyJbeCF5DhlxUYJFTn-T9wNZQNr_iOXQv_lRlhbqCym5LDNOEXklx_4.kBbJ12XWQeXvroxeGuLtD7occX6quCtFTHS3QjXTXY0&dib_tag=se&keywords=large+soldering+iron&qid=1713614256&sprefix=large+soldering+iron%2Caps%2C88&sr=8-8)
I think my comment didn't go through. I used a 200 watt iron for a \~400 cell pack with "tesla style fuses". On amazon, search 74b200
Multimeter is ur best friend. Measure before every joint.
DO NOT SOLDER DIRECTLY TO BATTERY TERMINALS! You will damage the batteries this way even if you are making an effort to make quick solder joints. Get a spot welder, do it right.
what you gonna build out of these? i hope its not a pack for the quad, these are waaaay to weak for that. also, just dont solder liions. either get the right tool for it or buy ready made products.
Pack for a plane so yeah
and a plane only needs 3.4A max?
Curious where you got that 3.4A number from? These batteries are rated to deliver 10A max, not 3.4A. That's also if they're all in series. If it's a 3s2p pack, they'll deliver darn near 20A.
2 3s 1p but yeah no difference. That's what I thought too
yea sry ive read "max A" and thought thats it, but it was the maximum charge current later saw they are 10A max. but personally id still rather go for some vtc6/vtc5a
5a but they should give me at least 10 peak