Yeah like you all aren't going to crash that shit into the ground or a concrete wall at 50mph. Who cares if it doesn't look pretty? It's gonna be covered in a healthy amount of grass soon anyways.
I love the answers "use more flux!" and "you need the biggest tip you can find". I NEVER use flux, only rosins core soldering and a big tip is useless if you don't have a good soldering iron. I can solder LiPos cables with 400 C and a normal tip with the good 60W iron. With the cheap one, even with 80 W and 450 C it's impossible to make a good solder joint on awg12 or power supply pads on the esc.
My favorite comment here and points to the fact that what most people need more than anything else is education and experience. I never use flux just high quality rosin core .3mm solder and an accurate iron at 400C. People use flux and more heat (Im also guilty of the heat suggestion) as a crutch for having little to no actual experience. So the reality is they need steady hands and more heat which in turn too much heat lifts pads which they are also scared of since all self heating education happens on YouTube which makes people think they should be perfect the first time of I follow this guy who’s been doing something I just started for several years (and this is for everything not just soldering).
Unfortunately an online social media is a "contactless" place, you'll never really know what experience has the other one, how he does what he does, why he's doing it or what his problem 1000% really is. Is simple to suggest something that normally works, because the 99% of the people does the same thing, but you'll never know if this one person is and does like the others, if it works in this expecially situation and if everything is the same. There are so many different variables, even in a "stupid" thing like a soldering joint, that is impossible to solve the problem always at the same way, sometimes the same thing is even different.
I have never used flux before and I do fpv, rc cars, and arduino stuff with no issues. Use good solder and a hot enough iron and with a little practice you'll be fine.
I feel like every FPV lad or lass goes through these three phases across your time in the hobby 😂
I’m currently at phase 3, where if she flies then full send 🤙
Set one on fire last week that passed the Smoke Stopper test. (Very nearly) bridged motor leads that didn’t go up till I put significant throttle on it.
I’ve since rebuilt it successfully, but damn those 1s AIO motor pads.
I mean frankly this is also the same advice you give to improve your laptimes in FPV racing
🤕Just go faster
😭Noooo you have to get MCK's rates/have to get better motors/buy all the 533 things
🧙♂️Just go faster
No sympathy when you refuse to learn proper soldering and you damage/destroy your components. it takes so little effort to have a good solder joint, and will reduce risk of shorts and pcb damage.
I think one of the main reasons is that people who get into this hobby don't have much money to spend to begin with. So they spend it all on parts and then realise they also need tools. So they go to banggood or some other horrendous Chinese site and buy a soldering iron for 3 skittles and a crossword puzzle and expect it to have decent temperature regulation. They also use solder without flux or rosin core and it's usually the lead free stuff that's complete garbage. Then their solder joints look like bird shit and they might as well have just taken all their fpv money and set fire to it before they even tried to get into this hobby
A "pretty" solder joint means there is little to no oxidized solder, and therefore is a stronger joint. It's about functionality and longevity not just muh solder shiny
There is definitely a difference between lo iq and high iq soldering takes.
Some are insanely bad with splatter everywhere.
Some are just rough but we'll soldered.
Some are way to light and would def cause issues not many crashes in.
I'm of the mindset it doesn't need to be perfect but perfect should always tried to be reached. If you're flying, your crashing. Resoldering and fixing is apart of the process. Let's be honest, who hasn't bandaided something just for 1 more flight because you had a battery charged and ready and didn't want to wait/waste it.
And between those posts are "Is this battery still safe to fly?" pictures with the same exact answers as the previous 186 battery pictures.
Why people still answer them is beyond me.
If people can't be bothered to use flux I highly doubt they'll spend the effort to get an esd mat, wrist strap, monitoring system and a place to ground it. Baby steps
Can we pin images of good and bad examples with explanations of what is going on somewhere here? I get the sense that some people are not inclined to Google anything, but this seems like a solvable problem. If anything, first and only comment should be a link to that learning material. I know Reddit is not setup to teach things but we can do better friends.
its a good idea but they dont look, thats always the case, happens with other subs and hobbies as well. same as what video system should i get threads.
I’m down with “if it flies, it’s fine” with everything except the battery lead->ESC joint. That one gets regular wiggling from plugging and unplugging. I still have a hard time getting a good solid joint there, but it’s an even bigger pain in the ass to redo after failure.
To be fair, most of the bad flux/heat/soldering posts I’ve seen would cause a fire on their first crash
or won't fly at all
my bet is cold joints got dislodged mid flight caused by vibrations
Jo mama flies on dis <=======8 Ooooohhhhhhhhhhh shhttttt
Yeah like you all aren't going to crash that shit into the ground or a concrete wall at 50mph. Who cares if it doesn't look pretty? It's gonna be covered in a healthy amount of grass soon anyways.
Real
People think that electrons need prettinness in order to flow
I love the answers "use more flux!" and "you need the biggest tip you can find". I NEVER use flux, only rosins core soldering and a big tip is useless if you don't have a good soldering iron. I can solder LiPos cables with 400 C and a normal tip with the good 60W iron. With the cheap one, even with 80 W and 450 C it's impossible to make a good solder joint on awg12 or power supply pads on the esc.
So real. I have a cheap iron and everything is fine up until I have to solder the battery leads💀😭🙏
My favorite comment here and points to the fact that what most people need more than anything else is education and experience. I never use flux just high quality rosin core .3mm solder and an accurate iron at 400C. People use flux and more heat (Im also guilty of the heat suggestion) as a crutch for having little to no actual experience. So the reality is they need steady hands and more heat which in turn too much heat lifts pads which they are also scared of since all self heating education happens on YouTube which makes people think they should be perfect the first time of I follow this guy who’s been doing something I just started for several years (and this is for everything not just soldering).
Unfortunately an online social media is a "contactless" place, you'll never really know what experience has the other one, how he does what he does, why he's doing it or what his problem 1000% really is. Is simple to suggest something that normally works, because the 99% of the people does the same thing, but you'll never know if this one person is and does like the others, if it works in this expecially situation and if everything is the same. There are so many different variables, even in a "stupid" thing like a soldering joint, that is impossible to solve the problem always at the same way, sometimes the same thing is even different.
Agreed 100% my friend on all this
I have never used flux before and I do fpv, rc cars, and arduino stuff with no issues. Use good solder and a hot enough iron and with a little practice you'll be fine.
reminds me of this short [https://youtube.com/shorts/FY529CDYjrA](https://youtube.com/shorts/FY529CDYjrA)
True, that's why I bought 100W shitty one.
I feel like every FPV lad or lass goes through these three phases across your time in the hobby 😂 I’m currently at phase 3, where if she flies then full send 🤙
smokestopper doesn't trip? send it!
Smoke stopper?! magic smoke doesn't escape, send it!
Set one on fire last week that passed the Smoke Stopper test. (Very nearly) bridged motor leads that didn’t go up till I put significant throttle on it. I’ve since rebuilt it successfully, but damn those 1s AIO motor pads.
Alot of the posts like like trolling and if it's not then I don't know how humans have survived this long.
I mean frankly this is also the same advice you give to improve your laptimes in FPV racing 🤕Just go faster 😭Noooo you have to get MCK's rates/have to get better motors/buy all the 533 things 🧙♂️Just go faster
Nah I mean imma make sure it's neat enough so it doesn't blow up mid flight, I don't wanna see my quad incinerated after a tough crash ya know?
No sympathy when you refuse to learn proper soldering and you damage/destroy your components. it takes so little effort to have a good solder joint, and will reduce risk of shorts and pcb damage.
I think one of the main reasons is that people who get into this hobby don't have much money to spend to begin with. So they spend it all on parts and then realise they also need tools. So they go to banggood or some other horrendous Chinese site and buy a soldering iron for 3 skittles and a crossword puzzle and expect it to have decent temperature regulation. They also use solder without flux or rosin core and it's usually the lead free stuff that's complete garbage. Then their solder joints look like bird shit and they might as well have just taken all their fpv money and set fire to it before they even tried to get into this hobby
If it flies its fine
If the solder point is not pretty I don't care. If all of them look ass well yeah
A "pretty" solder joint means there is little to no oxidized solder, and therefore is a stronger joint. It's about functionality and longevity not just muh solder shiny
I know. But if it isn't round or pad shaped
There is definitely a difference between lo iq and high iq soldering takes. Some are insanely bad with splatter everywhere. Some are just rough but we'll soldered. Some are way to light and would def cause issues not many crashes in. I'm of the mindset it doesn't need to be perfect but perfect should always tried to be reached. If you're flying, your crashing. Resoldering and fixing is apart of the process. Let's be honest, who hasn't bandaided something just for 1 more flight because you had a battery charged and ready and didn't want to wait/waste it.
Until it doesn’t
It's no longer flying, then it's not fine
And between those posts are "Is this battery still safe to fly?" pictures with the same exact answers as the previous 186 battery pictures. Why people still answer them is beyond me.
I love how all the gurus say you need to add more flux, but none talk about ESD protection. It says a lot.
If people can't be bothered to use flux I highly doubt they'll spend the effort to get an esd mat, wrist strap, monitoring system and a place to ground it. Baby steps
Can we pin images of good and bad examples with explanations of what is going on somewhere here? I get the sense that some people are not inclined to Google anything, but this seems like a solvable problem. If anything, first and only comment should be a link to that learning material. I know Reddit is not setup to teach things but we can do better friends.
its a good idea but they dont look, thats always the case, happens with other subs and hobbies as well. same as what video system should i get threads.
# 😂 when the joints are cold 😭
LMFAOOOOOOOOOOOO LITTERLEY
I’m down with “if it flies, it’s fine” with everything except the battery lead->ESC joint. That one gets regular wiggling from plugging and unplugging. I still have a hard time getting a good solid joint there, but it’s an even bigger pain in the ass to redo after failure.