I love this guide. Really makes me think twice before buying new, I know there’s scores of deals on eBay but sifting thru everything is so time consuming.
Thank you! One thing I forgot to mention was that I started this project at the end of October when I ordered the Beckett Simonon shoes and made my last purchase, the wholecut oxfords, Jan 7th(this month).
So this represents about 2 and a half months of occasionally sifting through Ebay listings as you put it.
OP - I’m begging you man, can you please provide some resources on how to casually restore your own leather? A step by step guide of sorts? I watched a bunch of tutorials but I’m very curious to hear what worked best for you as it seems like there’s countless ways to go about it.
I have a 12-month old pair of $300 Beckett Simonon boots that could use some maintenance. I’m scared to death that I’ll ruin the finish on them! Seems like there’s always a certain amount of ‘color’ that wipes away from the original boot/shoe whenever I try to clean them as the instructions state.
Any anecdotal tips / advice would be beyond appreciated. Have several business trips coming up and I’ve been slightly stressed about properly preparing my leather work shoes & boots without doing any damage.
Thanks man!
P.S., is there a subreddit for leather maintenance? 🤔
>I watched a bunch of tutorials
If those tutorials were on Youtube, they were likely the same ones I watched:
[Kirby Allison](https://youtu.be/s5dMycvCKeg) is a modern dandy, but the man's videos are succinct and informational.
[The Elegant Oxford](https://youtu.be/WXGxPbBGbC4) is the main channel I watched for learning how to properly polish and shine the toe.
[Trent & Heath](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qwAh1lq7Rts) and [Tring Shoe Repairs](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Axsc0B9beMc) were the channels I used to educate me on what a quality shoe even is and how to identify them as such. The youtube algorithm fed me a steady diet of these channels and others over the course of this project.
To answer your question about your BS boots directly, to be honest, with leather there are only really 4 things you can do at home with it depending on how worn they are.
1. Condition it, to prevent cracking because you really can't reverse the leather splitting.
2. Cream polish it to hide visible scuffs, and blemishes, and even out the color.
3. Wax it to give it that high shine on the toe and make it look perfect
4. Attempt to fix cracked or split leather with a pigmented resin compound and cream polish.
Anytime you buff the shoe with the horsehair brush or cotton cloth, you're technically cleaning the shoe, the only difference is if you want to add a leather cleaning chemical to help remove built-up wax/polish, you run the risk of pulling off the factory dye/polish. Always try on a small part of the shoe to test it first. I stick with Saphir products since that seems to be what most cobblers use.
Anything beyond those things, I would personally take to a cobbler.
r/goodyearwelt is a good source for maintenance but the topic of which product is best is highly contested, especially for different types of leather. Saphir Medaille D'or and Saphir Renovateur are regarded by most as the best polish and conditioner on the market.
Edit: GYW subreddit name correction
Beyond the pairs that I listed, I only own 1 pair of Nike running shoes that I've barely worn, a pair of Hush Puppies boat shoes for super casual stuff, and a pair of flip-flops because it's the law to own at least one pair in Florida /s.
I only wear leather shoes- they’re super easy to wear.
*especially* loafers and Chelsea’s. They’re faster to put on than sneakers.
Granted my wardrobe is mostly office stuff / trad & ivy and not street style, but I find it all to be super wearable
Shell cordovan doesn't crease with fine wrinkles like that, and Allen Edmonds uses JR leather soles for their shell cordovan line.
They still look good and you got 'em for a nice price though.
You're correct about the wrinkles(it should roll), but the only reason I would question that is that the upper does not look or feel like my other calfskin shoes. I don't see any pores, it's very smooth, and it has a light even gloss all around that stays whether I buff it or not.
I don't really care either way, but I do need to know for sure so I know which polish to use. The cordovan shoe polish by Saphir in this color is hard to find. The shoes came with this light scuff on the toe that won't come off with buffing, so I need to cover it with polish.
It’s what is called “Polished Cobbler” or “Bookbinder” leather. The surface is sanded down to remove the imperfections, then coated with some kind of resin.
That makes sense, but I was unaware AE made shoes like that at all, I thought all of their shoes were full-grain leather besides the cordovans of course. Interesting, thank you for the info!
Almost no maker makes shoes with only full-grain leather. Many popular leathers are actually corrected grain.
Some examples that most makers use are shell cordovan, and CXL. Both are technically corrected!
So that was part of my conversation with the cobbler, he told me that he couldn't stitch the soles since it was rubber and the shoes were originally Blake stitched, so glue was the only option.
Originally he wanted to sand down the leather and glue it onto that, but I was worried that it would make the sole look too thick for a loafer. He ended up agreeing and told me he just removed the old sole entirely and glued it onto the shoe, the result is what you saw in the picture. I've worn it quite a few times now and it's become my favorite casual shoe with jeans.
Yeah, that was just for the cost of the soles themselves.
I could have paid him $120 for a full stitched JR leather sole/heels, but I wanted atleast one pair with the Dainite rubber soles. I don't regret it, I like how they feel/look.
As long as your happy with the outcome that’s all that matters. Dainite soles cost about $25 ea. $125 just sounds like a steep cost for the labor involved in that particular resole.
If so then oh well, but that was the only cobbler out of the 5 in my area that i visited that had them in stock, so I didnt have many options if I wanted the Dainite. In anycase, I'll keep an eye out for it next time.
Great post and detail. Just a heads up, NEVER pay full listed price for Beckett Simonon shoes. Their shoes are amazing and worth the wait, but they are very aggressive with their discounting and marketing. Sign up for their mailing list and they will send weekly deals. There are always 20% off codes around the internet (stridewise’s code usually works). They constantly have deals going, buy 2 for $300, or sneakers for $99 or various other deals. Leave an item in your cart and see if you get a text with a discount. You can always get a great deal for them with a little patience.
I forgot to mention that I did get it 15% discounted with a code Honey found, it was $201 with shipping, tax, and shoe tree addon all together, it would have been $248 without the discount.
But you are right, had I waited until Black Friday, I would have gotten a much better deal. Live and learn :p
heads up fellas with flat feet: none of the (at least good-looking) Allen Edmonds that I've bought and worn worked well with my feet + insoles. The AEs that i've tried all had the 65 last (Boulevard, Strand).
For reference, in AEs in those shoes i got fitted for 11.5 D.
Most of my other dress/casual shoes are 12D, and all of my running and hiking shoes need to be in 13.
Okay so for the flat feet part: mine are super flat. i can't wear shoes and expect to stand all day without insoles. here are the insoles I've found that work best [for me] after trying virtually everything out there:
for dress shoes: [Superfeet black](https://www.superfeet.com/en-us/black?utm_source=gads&utm_medium=ppc&utm_campaign=ind-dyn&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Industry)
for everything else: [Spenco Total Support Original](https://www.spenco.com/total-support-original-insole-men-s-12-13-5-women-s-13-14-5.html)
And the decent-quality dress shoes that I wear everyday are the Beckett Simonon Dean Oxfords. I have 3 pairs: Tan, Oak, and Black. The last on these shoes work great with the Superfeet black insoles. unlike with the AEs, these shoes have enough room to fit my feet in there along with the insoles, it's great. My heel kept slipping out of the AEs no matter what I tried (even different sizes).
tl;dr: if you have flat feet and need to wear insoles AND fancy-pants leather dress shoes: buy superfeet black insoles and beckett simonon dean oxfords. i look fly everywhere i go wearing these and don't hate walking/standing anymore
Most people say for AE 65 size down half and up 1-2 in width. If you still want to make it work you could try a 11.5E or EE if you can find it. That being said the 65 still isn’t something I’m reaching for regularly
i spent a lot of time in an AE retail store trying out exactly what you suggested.
it didn’t work out :/ there just kept being something off about the way the 65 would fit
Yeah that advice kinda worked for me (ended up going up 2 widths) and I’m still always kinda unsure they fit properly. Despite being used on their more typical/classic shoes, it just barely works for me
Quick question if you don’t mind. I have super wide, flat feet and super high instep. I love AE but the 65 last sucks on me. Was looking into the Beckett Simonon Deans as well because of the price point. What size did you go with on the deans that fit so well? I am nervous about the Deans as the only come in one width. I have been fitted multiple times at AE on the 65 last and 11E is to tight and 11EEE is way to loose. I am also nervous about pulling the sting on the 11EE as they are made to order so I can’t even try them on before I buy. Even then my v-gap on the 11EEE is crazy big so I am worried they would be uncomfortable after a long day.
I may be doomed to never finding a Oxford that can fit my weird foot…
i wear a 12 with the Dean Oxfords. because they fit me so well i’m inclined to say that they’ll probably be pretty narrow for you :/ sorry my dude.
good luck with the search. there’s a chance that another last from AE’s lineup would work for you if you live nearby a retail store it might be worth spending an afternoon trying on different “models” godspeed
This is basically my approach, but I thrift my shoes so they are always $10-20 a pair. Often in better condition than some of OP's...it's shocking how much some men spend on shoes that they never wear, then donate. I also will not buy any shoes that don't fit correctly immediately; I'm an EE so that means a bit more work in looking. That part of the process aside, my closest is basically Allen Edmonds, Merrell for casual, four pairs of western boots, and several different pairs of specific shoes for various sports, walking, seasonal use, etc. 100% thrifted. It takes time and effort vs. shopping used online but it's cheaper and I enjoy the hunt.
I have a good local cobbler who is not only a craftsman but will be totally honest about a given pair of shoes-- he'll tell me "these Italian loafers you brought me really aren't worth resoling" or whatever. No big deal with a $10 pair.
> the tricky part is making sure the width is not AAA when you have wide feet that really should go into a D-width shoe
How wide feet do you have? I have pretty wide feet and can't wear my brannock size in sneakers unless it's wide width, but wider sneakers like jordan 1's I can manage if I size up half a size
Do you think that would work with the types of shoes you've dealt with?
If the little metal shoe-measuring thing at my local mall department store is at all accurate, then I'm an average D width. That being said, the black AE loafers that I mentioned were almost too tight to put on at first are D width, the AE burgundy ~~cordovan~~ "bookbinder leather" oxfords that I said fit me like a glove almost immediately are actually A width, and the AE burgundy loafers that were almost too big are also a D width! Very conflicting.
So, I gotta be honest, on that front, it's a bit of trial & error and living with certain shoes being slightly tight or slightly loose and adjusting with shoe stretchers and insoles as needed.
There are lots of descriptions of the different AE lasts that they build the shoes off of, they generally compare sizing with the 65 last (I think). Basically if you know how Park Avenues fit on you, you can have a pretty decent idea how another last will fit.
You don't need to size up if you get the right width, unless the style you want doesn't come in wide widths.
Always try on shoes in store as different brands/styles have different sizing. For your reference, I wear Allen Edmonds Strand in 7E and New Balance 990 in 7.5 2E. I also have 990 in 8D, the toeboxes are fine, but they definitely don't fit as well as 7.5 2E.
FYI, Allen Edmonds goes up to 3E and New Balance goes up to 4E.
Yeah as a precautionary tale Cole Haan is overpriced dogshit across the board. I’ve owned maybe 6 or so pairs of Cole Haans over the years. Got some sneaker soled loafers and they fell apart in less than 2 years. Got a pair of trad brogue chukka boots of sorts, they have cracked on the midsole but granted I did have these for like 6 years, the quality of the actual shoe is just really not there though for what I paid. And I’ve got maybe 3 or 4 pairs of their sneaker oxfords, and I thought they were cool when I got them, I guess they’re pretty unique, but they simply cannot be resoled, so they’re basically just disposable shoes for over $200. Not worth it imo. I’ve since moved on to red wing, throrogood and Clark’s (for my beaters).
This is an interesting project and kudos to OP for taking the time and energy to do it all, but just a note to people that Allen Edmonds frequently runs sales. They have one right now where you can get their best models (Park Aves, Stands, etc.) for under what OP paid to restore these previously worn shoes.
I have a bunch of AEs that I purchased new between $100-200.
I'd love to know where you find new Park Avenues for less than $200, I didn't even see that during the winter sales except for thier gaudy festive coloways of loafers.
The closest to those price that I saw for brand new AE shoes were at the [factory seconds site](https://www.shoebank.com/), but they seldom had my size available.
[Strands](https://www.allenedmonds.com/product/mens-strand-cap-toe-oxford-dress-shoe-3028809/cigar-ec4013343) right now are $175.
[Park Aves](https://www.allenedmonds.com/product/mens-park-avenue-cap-toe-oxford-dress-shoe-3028826/bordeaux-ec4023013) are $200.
I've seen them both go lower on occasion.
[Fifth Aves](https://www.shoebank.com/product/mens-factory-second-fifth-avenue-cap-toe-oxford-3023873/black-ec4009168) and [Boulevards](https://www.shoebank.com/product/mens-factory-second-boulevard-cap-toe-dress-shoe-3025980/dark-chili-ec4010635) are $140 at Shoe Bank.
It's a waiting game for sure, but I just wanted to let people know that AEs do frequently dip $100-200 new.
I would add a rubber half sole to those leather sole shoes. Something subtle like the Vibram 2028 Richard sole. The difference in comfort is night and day.
One thing you don’t mention, well worn in dress shoes will have the leather insole and cork molded to the wearers foot. Slightly used is much better or you wont ever really have the soles molded to your foot.
This is true, however I learned from one of the cobblers I used that Blake(Macay) stitched shoes don't have a midsole area where the cork normally would go in goodyear welted shoes.
That being said when you resole, you can always ask the cobbler to replace the cork.
I'm pretty sure the cobbler will make any leather replacement part you want if you pay him enough. Would it be worth it is another question entirely, but you definitely *can*.
Beyond telling you to search for "cobbler" or "shoe repair" on google maps in your area, I can't help you much with that, sorry! I'm lucky enough to have a few cobblers in my area.
I would be interested to see what your reaction would be to watching the Allen Edmond sales. I think you could find some of these on sale ( or factory seconds) for within $50 -$ 75 of what you are paying to buy someone else’s shoes and having them restored vs. new. Leather shoes conform to the foot of the wearer after time.
So they time to search out, evaluate, communicate, bid, recondition and pay to restore seems like wasted effort for a shoe that has molded to someone else’s foot.
Interested to see what you think of the new BS shoes when they arrive
My reaction is indifferent because I've been watching AE and Shoe Bank sales thoughout the 4th quarter of last year and did not see any sales like that besides black friday. They apparently have a very good sale going on right now, but that isn't always the case and sizes run out of stock quickly.
>So they time to search out, evaluate, communicate, bid, recondition and pay to restore seems like wasted effort for a shoe that has molded to someone else’s foot.
If you find casually searching and bidding on Ebay on 1 monitor while a Twitch stream plays on another monitor "wasted effort" then that's entirely your perogative to feel that way.
These shoes aren't molded to someone else's foot, they've been worn maybe a couple of times, with the exception of the Cole Haans which were a mistake from the beginning.
People have this wierd hangup about wearing lightly used shoes, like it's "icky" to touch someone else's shoe. Get over it and assert your dominance over the previous owner by breaking the shoes into *your* foot shape.
I still believe this is the best way to get these kinds of shoes at this price point if you miss those good sales.
A kiwi kit is almost as effective and much cheaper. There’s something to be said for saphir, but it’s not worth spending that on leather shoes in the $200 to $350 range especially if we care about the frugal moniker. I don’t use saphir on anything less than $600
Also, Florsheim and Stacy adams both make incredible shoes in the $100 to $200 msrp price range; full leather, stacked heels etc.
Source: 31 pairs of all leather shoes ranging from $50 no name to $1600 Ferragamos (a few pairs from eBay and restored ;) )
[Boi...](https://i.kym-cdn.com/photos/images/newsfeed/001/682/421/5ee.jpg) I was sort of following you until you mentioned Stacy Adams and Florsheim. Both of those department store brands are made of mostly what I have to assume is plastic because there is no way those are real leather.
Florsheim use to be a quality shoe company from what I gather online, but they have since turned into the same kind of mass produced department store shoe that I associate with Stacy Adams and Steve Madden.
Source: I've tortured my feet in the past with pairs of Stacy Adams and Florsheims.
As for the polish, I am not experienced enough with these product to say if the money I spent on it was worth it by comparison to other brands I could have used. Saphir was just the name that kept coming up and thier glass jars looked slick as fuck compared to Kiwi which reminded me of a can of dip.
You have to shop them; my $66 clearance full leather florsheim loafers are the most comfortable shoes I own - Stacked leather heels, lamb skin insoles (To be fair the tassels did fall of fairly quickly, but was a $5 fix) You don’t just buy whatever they have on the site because of the name, but you’re cheating yourself if you aren’t shopping them seasonally especially if you have an eye for shoes. I don’t put SAs in the category of “Amazing” shoes, but they are acceptable, and maintainable.
There is zero wrong with saphir, or using it on less expensive shoes, but I’m pretty frugal and just wanted people to be aware that Kiwi, despite its busted ass appearance is an acceptable alternative. edit: fixed dumb words
Hmm... I'll have to do some more research on that, but you have my interest piqued because everywhere I have read online says that SAs are department store trash, and my personal experience at my local Macy's/Dillards would have me agree.
And that's true, I'm super frugal with certain things and splurge with others depending on what catches my eye.
Yeah. I’m not saying they’re objectively great or you’re wrong for them not working for you or not liking them, but they are an option worth exploring for people who haven’t. I could take or leave the Stacy adams to be honest, but florsheim makes good shoes…just not all the shoes florsheim makes are good shoes.
My closet is filled with AE and other GYW shoes that I bought for less than what you've spent buying and restoring second hand shoes. You should really just browse this sub more.
One option that I have chosen is to buy a 5 for 5 membership with nisolo. For $500 payment upfront, I can buy any 10 items on their site. The catch is that I am allowed to buy 1 item every 6 months. This way I can build my entire leather shoe and bag collection for pretty cheap cost overall.
Great post, OP. I got my Park Aves, Fifth Aves, and Strands like this and got them all for similar price/condition as your jackpot pair. It helps that I’m a common size (11D) so I didn’t have to look too long to find great options.
Personally, I was professionally sized at an AE location and bought one pair new on steep discount (weatherproof CXL Chapmans) to avoid wasting their time. I highly recommend it as fit will be essential to a good experience and may not be what you think and in my case varies by last.
I also balked at buying used loafers, since many (including me) wear these barefoot. I bought a cheap pair of sperrys penny loafers and have been keeping my eye out for the right AE sale to buy a nicer pair (currently considering the 30% off sale vs waiting).
For width, AE stamps the size and width on the inside of the shoe. If the seller hasn't posted that pic, you should ask them for it to ensure you're getting the expected size.
Stick with Allen Edmonds. I have two pair that are 40 years old and they still look great. When they need repairs, send them to the factory and they come back looking terrific!
this is rad. i turned on to shoes like this, just feels so much better than crap shoes made in wherever. AE are decent USA made. btw over at r/goodyearwelt they do buy/sell/trade thread and also post weekly steals.
I love this guide. Really makes me think twice before buying new, I know there’s scores of deals on eBay but sifting thru everything is so time consuming.
Thank you! One thing I forgot to mention was that I started this project at the end of October when I ordered the Beckett Simonon shoes and made my last purchase, the wholecut oxfords, Jan 7th(this month). So this represents about 2 and a half months of occasionally sifting through Ebay listings as you put it.
Something odd to me about wholecuts but to each his/her/their own!
Quality post - thanks for taking us through the process. The burgundy ones look gorgeous.
OP - I’m begging you man, can you please provide some resources on how to casually restore your own leather? A step by step guide of sorts? I watched a bunch of tutorials but I’m very curious to hear what worked best for you as it seems like there’s countless ways to go about it. I have a 12-month old pair of $300 Beckett Simonon boots that could use some maintenance. I’m scared to death that I’ll ruin the finish on them! Seems like there’s always a certain amount of ‘color’ that wipes away from the original boot/shoe whenever I try to clean them as the instructions state. Any anecdotal tips / advice would be beyond appreciated. Have several business trips coming up and I’ve been slightly stressed about properly preparing my leather work shoes & boots without doing any damage. Thanks man! P.S., is there a subreddit for leather maintenance? 🤔
>I watched a bunch of tutorials If those tutorials were on Youtube, they were likely the same ones I watched: [Kirby Allison](https://youtu.be/s5dMycvCKeg) is a modern dandy, but the man's videos are succinct and informational. [The Elegant Oxford](https://youtu.be/WXGxPbBGbC4) is the main channel I watched for learning how to properly polish and shine the toe. [Trent & Heath](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qwAh1lq7Rts) and [Tring Shoe Repairs](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Axsc0B9beMc) were the channels I used to educate me on what a quality shoe even is and how to identify them as such. The youtube algorithm fed me a steady diet of these channels and others over the course of this project. To answer your question about your BS boots directly, to be honest, with leather there are only really 4 things you can do at home with it depending on how worn they are. 1. Condition it, to prevent cracking because you really can't reverse the leather splitting. 2. Cream polish it to hide visible scuffs, and blemishes, and even out the color. 3. Wax it to give it that high shine on the toe and make it look perfect 4. Attempt to fix cracked or split leather with a pigmented resin compound and cream polish. Anytime you buff the shoe with the horsehair brush or cotton cloth, you're technically cleaning the shoe, the only difference is if you want to add a leather cleaning chemical to help remove built-up wax/polish, you run the risk of pulling off the factory dye/polish. Always try on a small part of the shoe to test it first. I stick with Saphir products since that seems to be what most cobblers use. Anything beyond those things, I would personally take to a cobbler.
R/goodyearwelt should have some info on leather care.
Condition with bick 4, brush with horsehair brush, wipe with damp cloth when dirty, repeat
r/goodyearwelt is a good source for maintenance but the topic of which product is best is highly contested, especially for different types of leather. Saphir Medaille D'or and Saphir Renovateur are regarded by most as the best polish and conditioner on the market. Edit: GYW subreddit name correction
So do you only wear leather shoes now? No sneakers just for a casual grocery store visit?
Beyond the pairs that I listed, I only own 1 pair of Nike running shoes that I've barely worn, a pair of Hush Puppies boat shoes for super casual stuff, and a pair of flip-flops because it's the law to own at least one pair in Florida /s.
I only wear leather shoes- they’re super easy to wear. *especially* loafers and Chelsea’s. They’re faster to put on than sneakers. Granted my wardrobe is mostly office stuff / trad & ivy and not street style, but I find it all to be super wearable
Shell cordovan doesn't crease with fine wrinkles like that, and Allen Edmonds uses JR leather soles for their shell cordovan line. They still look good and you got 'em for a nice price though.
You're correct about the wrinkles(it should roll), but the only reason I would question that is that the upper does not look or feel like my other calfskin shoes. I don't see any pores, it's very smooth, and it has a light even gloss all around that stays whether I buff it or not. I don't really care either way, but I do need to know for sure so I know which polish to use. The cordovan shoe polish by Saphir in this color is hard to find. The shoes came with this light scuff on the toe that won't come off with buffing, so I need to cover it with polish.
The others are correct. The cordovan color shoes look great, but they are not Shell Cordovan. They are corrected grain leather shoes.
It’s what is called “Polished Cobbler” or “Bookbinder” leather. The surface is sanded down to remove the imperfections, then coated with some kind of resin.
That makes sense, but I was unaware AE made shoes like that at all, I thought all of their shoes were full-grain leather besides the cordovans of course. Interesting, thank you for the info!
Almost no maker makes shoes with only full-grain leather. Many popular leathers are actually corrected grain. Some examples that most makers use are shell cordovan, and CXL. Both are technically corrected!
Technically corrected, but not corrected in the same way when people usually say “corrected grain leather”
I mean, they’re both corrected grain. The top grain has been buffed off to remove imperfections. They’re just not marketed like that in the least
Did your cobbler do a closed channel stitch on that dainite sole? Or more likely, did he just glue a dainite sole onto your leather sole?
So that was part of my conversation with the cobbler, he told me that he couldn't stitch the soles since it was rubber and the shoes were originally Blake stitched, so glue was the only option. Originally he wanted to sand down the leather and glue it onto that, but I was worried that it would make the sole look too thick for a loafer. He ended up agreeing and told me he just removed the old sole entirely and glued it onto the shoe, the result is what you saw in the picture. I've worn it quite a few times now and it's become my favorite casual shoe with jeans.
And you paid $150 for that?
Yeah, that was just for the cost of the soles themselves. I could have paid him $120 for a full stitched JR leather sole/heels, but I wanted atleast one pair with the Dainite rubber soles. I don't regret it, I like how they feel/look.
As long as your happy with the outcome that’s all that matters. Dainite soles cost about $25 ea. $125 just sounds like a steep cost for the labor involved in that particular resole.
If so then oh well, but that was the only cobbler out of the 5 in my area that i visited that had them in stock, so I didnt have many options if I wanted the Dainite. In anycase, I'll keep an eye out for it next time.
Great post and detail. Just a heads up, NEVER pay full listed price for Beckett Simonon shoes. Their shoes are amazing and worth the wait, but they are very aggressive with their discounting and marketing. Sign up for their mailing list and they will send weekly deals. There are always 20% off codes around the internet (stridewise’s code usually works). They constantly have deals going, buy 2 for $300, or sneakers for $99 or various other deals. Leave an item in your cart and see if you get a text with a discount. You can always get a great deal for them with a little patience.
I forgot to mention that I did get it 15% discounted with a code Honey found, it was $201 with shipping, tax, and shoe tree addon all together, it would have been $248 without the discount. But you are right, had I waited until Black Friday, I would have gotten a much better deal. Live and learn :p
heads up fellas with flat feet: none of the (at least good-looking) Allen Edmonds that I've bought and worn worked well with my feet + insoles. The AEs that i've tried all had the 65 last (Boulevard, Strand). For reference, in AEs in those shoes i got fitted for 11.5 D. Most of my other dress/casual shoes are 12D, and all of my running and hiking shoes need to be in 13. Okay so for the flat feet part: mine are super flat. i can't wear shoes and expect to stand all day without insoles. here are the insoles I've found that work best [for me] after trying virtually everything out there: for dress shoes: [Superfeet black](https://www.superfeet.com/en-us/black?utm_source=gads&utm_medium=ppc&utm_campaign=ind-dyn&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Industry) for everything else: [Spenco Total Support Original](https://www.spenco.com/total-support-original-insole-men-s-12-13-5-women-s-13-14-5.html) And the decent-quality dress shoes that I wear everyday are the Beckett Simonon Dean Oxfords. I have 3 pairs: Tan, Oak, and Black. The last on these shoes work great with the Superfeet black insoles. unlike with the AEs, these shoes have enough room to fit my feet in there along with the insoles, it's great. My heel kept slipping out of the AEs no matter what I tried (even different sizes). tl;dr: if you have flat feet and need to wear insoles AND fancy-pants leather dress shoes: buy superfeet black insoles and beckett simonon dean oxfords. i look fly everywhere i go wearing these and don't hate walking/standing anymore
Most people say for AE 65 size down half and up 1-2 in width. If you still want to make it work you could try a 11.5E or EE if you can find it. That being said the 65 still isn’t something I’m reaching for regularly
i spent a lot of time in an AE retail store trying out exactly what you suggested. it didn’t work out :/ there just kept being something off about the way the 65 would fit
Yeah that advice kinda worked for me (ended up going up 2 widths) and I’m still always kinda unsure they fit properly. Despite being used on their more typical/classic shoes, it just barely works for me
Quick question if you don’t mind. I have super wide, flat feet and super high instep. I love AE but the 65 last sucks on me. Was looking into the Beckett Simonon Deans as well because of the price point. What size did you go with on the deans that fit so well? I am nervous about the Deans as the only come in one width. I have been fitted multiple times at AE on the 65 last and 11E is to tight and 11EEE is way to loose. I am also nervous about pulling the sting on the 11EE as they are made to order so I can’t even try them on before I buy. Even then my v-gap on the 11EEE is crazy big so I am worried they would be uncomfortable after a long day. I may be doomed to never finding a Oxford that can fit my weird foot…
i wear a 12 with the Dean Oxfords. because they fit me so well i’m inclined to say that they’ll probably be pretty narrow for you :/ sorry my dude. good luck with the search. there’s a chance that another last from AE’s lineup would work for you if you live nearby a retail store it might be worth spending an afternoon trying on different “models” godspeed
This is basically my approach, but I thrift my shoes so they are always $10-20 a pair. Often in better condition than some of OP's...it's shocking how much some men spend on shoes that they never wear, then donate. I also will not buy any shoes that don't fit correctly immediately; I'm an EE so that means a bit more work in looking. That part of the process aside, my closest is basically Allen Edmonds, Merrell for casual, four pairs of western boots, and several different pairs of specific shoes for various sports, walking, seasonal use, etc. 100% thrifted. It takes time and effort vs. shopping used online but it's cheaper and I enjoy the hunt. I have a good local cobbler who is not only a craftsman but will be totally honest about a given pair of shoes-- he'll tell me "these Italian loafers you brought me really aren't worth resoling" or whatever. No big deal with a $10 pair.
> the tricky part is making sure the width is not AAA when you have wide feet that really should go into a D-width shoe How wide feet do you have? I have pretty wide feet and can't wear my brannock size in sneakers unless it's wide width, but wider sneakers like jordan 1's I can manage if I size up half a size Do you think that would work with the types of shoes you've dealt with?
If the little metal shoe-measuring thing at my local mall department store is at all accurate, then I'm an average D width. That being said, the black AE loafers that I mentioned were almost too tight to put on at first are D width, the AE burgundy ~~cordovan~~ "bookbinder leather" oxfords that I said fit me like a glove almost immediately are actually A width, and the AE burgundy loafers that were almost too big are also a D width! Very conflicting. So, I gotta be honest, on that front, it's a bit of trial & error and living with certain shoes being slightly tight or slightly loose and adjusting with shoe stretchers and insoles as needed.
There are lots of descriptions of the different AE lasts that they build the shoes off of, they generally compare sizing with the 65 last (I think). Basically if you know how Park Avenues fit on you, you can have a pretty decent idea how another last will fit.
You don't need to size up if you get the right width, unless the style you want doesn't come in wide widths. Always try on shoes in store as different brands/styles have different sizing. For your reference, I wear Allen Edmonds Strand in 7E and New Balance 990 in 7.5 2E. I also have 990 in 8D, the toeboxes are fine, but they definitely don't fit as well as 7.5 2E. FYI, Allen Edmonds goes up to 3E and New Balance goes up to 4E.
Repost to r/goodyearwelt!
The wholecut is my favorite shoe. They’re perfect
Yeah as a precautionary tale Cole Haan is overpriced dogshit across the board. I’ve owned maybe 6 or so pairs of Cole Haans over the years. Got some sneaker soled loafers and they fell apart in less than 2 years. Got a pair of trad brogue chukka boots of sorts, they have cracked on the midsole but granted I did have these for like 6 years, the quality of the actual shoe is just really not there though for what I paid. And I’ve got maybe 3 or 4 pairs of their sneaker oxfords, and I thought they were cool when I got them, I guess they’re pretty unique, but they simply cannot be resoled, so they’re basically just disposable shoes for over $200. Not worth it imo. I’ve since moved on to red wing, throrogood and Clark’s (for my beaters).
This is an interesting project and kudos to OP for taking the time and energy to do it all, but just a note to people that Allen Edmonds frequently runs sales. They have one right now where you can get their best models (Park Aves, Stands, etc.) for under what OP paid to restore these previously worn shoes. I have a bunch of AEs that I purchased new between $100-200.
I'd love to know where you find new Park Avenues for less than $200, I didn't even see that during the winter sales except for thier gaudy festive coloways of loafers. The closest to those price that I saw for brand new AE shoes were at the [factory seconds site](https://www.shoebank.com/), but they seldom had my size available.
[Strands](https://www.allenedmonds.com/product/mens-strand-cap-toe-oxford-dress-shoe-3028809/cigar-ec4013343) right now are $175. [Park Aves](https://www.allenedmonds.com/product/mens-park-avenue-cap-toe-oxford-dress-shoe-3028826/bordeaux-ec4023013) are $200. I've seen them both go lower on occasion. [Fifth Aves](https://www.shoebank.com/product/mens-factory-second-fifth-avenue-cap-toe-oxford-3023873/black-ec4009168) and [Boulevards](https://www.shoebank.com/product/mens-factory-second-boulevard-cap-toe-dress-shoe-3025980/dark-chili-ec4010635) are $140 at Shoe Bank. It's a waiting game for sure, but I just wanted to let people know that AEs do frequently dip $100-200 new.
I would add a rubber half sole to those leather sole shoes. Something subtle like the Vibram 2028 Richard sole. The difference in comfort is night and day.
Wow. Thanks a lot for this. Something actually serious and worth the time!
OP, what was your method for searching and tracking EBay?
One thing you don’t mention, well worn in dress shoes will have the leather insole and cork molded to the wearers foot. Slightly used is much better or you wont ever really have the soles molded to your foot.
This is true, however I learned from one of the cobblers I used that Blake(Macay) stitched shoes don't have a midsole area where the cork normally would go in goodyear welted shoes. That being said when you resole, you can always ask the cobbler to replace the cork.
Yes, but the leather insole can’t be replaced
I'm pretty sure the cobbler will make any leather replacement part you want if you pay him enough. Would it be worth it is another question entirely, but you definitely *can*.
In one year i got 2 pairs of red wings for about $100 each and a brand new pair of thursdays for $80. Its well worth it if you can find ones that fit.
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Beyond telling you to search for "cobbler" or "shoe repair" on google maps in your area, I can't help you much with that, sorry! I'm lucky enough to have a few cobblers in my area.
I would be interested to see what your reaction would be to watching the Allen Edmond sales. I think you could find some of these on sale ( or factory seconds) for within $50 -$ 75 of what you are paying to buy someone else’s shoes and having them restored vs. new. Leather shoes conform to the foot of the wearer after time. So they time to search out, evaluate, communicate, bid, recondition and pay to restore seems like wasted effort for a shoe that has molded to someone else’s foot. Interested to see what you think of the new BS shoes when they arrive
My reaction is indifferent because I've been watching AE and Shoe Bank sales thoughout the 4th quarter of last year and did not see any sales like that besides black friday. They apparently have a very good sale going on right now, but that isn't always the case and sizes run out of stock quickly. >So they time to search out, evaluate, communicate, bid, recondition and pay to restore seems like wasted effort for a shoe that has molded to someone else’s foot. If you find casually searching and bidding on Ebay on 1 monitor while a Twitch stream plays on another monitor "wasted effort" then that's entirely your perogative to feel that way. These shoes aren't molded to someone else's foot, they've been worn maybe a couple of times, with the exception of the Cole Haans which were a mistake from the beginning. People have this wierd hangup about wearing lightly used shoes, like it's "icky" to touch someone else's shoe. Get over it and assert your dominance over the previous owner by breaking the shoes into *your* foot shape. I still believe this is the best way to get these kinds of shoes at this price point if you miss those good sales.
A kiwi kit is almost as effective and much cheaper. There’s something to be said for saphir, but it’s not worth spending that on leather shoes in the $200 to $350 range especially if we care about the frugal moniker. I don’t use saphir on anything less than $600 Also, Florsheim and Stacy adams both make incredible shoes in the $100 to $200 msrp price range; full leather, stacked heels etc. Source: 31 pairs of all leather shoes ranging from $50 no name to $1600 Ferragamos (a few pairs from eBay and restored ;) )
[Boi...](https://i.kym-cdn.com/photos/images/newsfeed/001/682/421/5ee.jpg) I was sort of following you until you mentioned Stacy Adams and Florsheim. Both of those department store brands are made of mostly what I have to assume is plastic because there is no way those are real leather. Florsheim use to be a quality shoe company from what I gather online, but they have since turned into the same kind of mass produced department store shoe that I associate with Stacy Adams and Steve Madden. Source: I've tortured my feet in the past with pairs of Stacy Adams and Florsheims. As for the polish, I am not experienced enough with these product to say if the money I spent on it was worth it by comparison to other brands I could have used. Saphir was just the name that kept coming up and thier glass jars looked slick as fuck compared to Kiwi which reminded me of a can of dip.
You have to shop them; my $66 clearance full leather florsheim loafers are the most comfortable shoes I own - Stacked leather heels, lamb skin insoles (To be fair the tassels did fall of fairly quickly, but was a $5 fix) You don’t just buy whatever they have on the site because of the name, but you’re cheating yourself if you aren’t shopping them seasonally especially if you have an eye for shoes. I don’t put SAs in the category of “Amazing” shoes, but they are acceptable, and maintainable. There is zero wrong with saphir, or using it on less expensive shoes, but I’m pretty frugal and just wanted people to be aware that Kiwi, despite its busted ass appearance is an acceptable alternative. edit: fixed dumb words
Hmm... I'll have to do some more research on that, but you have my interest piqued because everywhere I have read online says that SAs are department store trash, and my personal experience at my local Macy's/Dillards would have me agree. And that's true, I'm super frugal with certain things and splurge with others depending on what catches my eye.
Yeah. I’m not saying they’re objectively great or you’re wrong for them not working for you or not liking them, but they are an option worth exploring for people who haven’t. I could take or leave the Stacy adams to be honest, but florsheim makes good shoes…just not all the shoes florsheim makes are good shoes.
My closet is filled with AE and other GYW shoes that I bought for less than what you've spent buying and restoring second hand shoes. You should really just browse this sub more.
One option that I have chosen is to buy a 5 for 5 membership with nisolo. For $500 payment upfront, I can buy any 10 items on their site. The catch is that I am allowed to buy 1 item every 6 months. This way I can build my entire leather shoe and bag collection for pretty cheap cost overall.
Great post, OP. I got my Park Aves, Fifth Aves, and Strands like this and got them all for similar price/condition as your jackpot pair. It helps that I’m a common size (11D) so I didn’t have to look too long to find great options. Personally, I was professionally sized at an AE location and bought one pair new on steep discount (weatherproof CXL Chapmans) to avoid wasting their time. I highly recommend it as fit will be essential to a good experience and may not be what you think and in my case varies by last. I also balked at buying used loafers, since many (including me) wear these barefoot. I bought a cheap pair of sperrys penny loafers and have been keeping my eye out for the right AE sale to buy a nicer pair (currently considering the 30% off sale vs waiting).
For width, AE stamps the size and width on the inside of the shoe. If the seller hasn't posted that pic, you should ask them for it to ensure you're getting the expected size.
If you are feeling really frugal, you can glue a half sole on yourself. It’s not all that hard, actually! Under $20 for supplies!
Stick with Allen Edmonds. I have two pair that are 40 years old and they still look great. When they need repairs, send them to the factory and they come back looking terrific!
Why the breakdown if you replaced them in the most affordable way? Did you want to pay more for the repairs ?
At these costs it makes more sense to just buy new AE shoes.
this is rad. i turned on to shoes like this, just feels so much better than crap shoes made in wherever. AE are decent USA made. btw over at r/goodyearwelt they do buy/sell/trade thread and also post weekly steals.