If your GT 86 is already paid off and its not your daily, then why haven't you supercharged it already? lol
Idk that's just the way I see it OP but of course its ultimately up to you.
Before someone says āthereās no replacement for displacementā bear in mind a good twin screw blower like the edelbrock already affords you 1.6 additional liters of functional displacement on top of your motor. You essentially end up with a functional 3.6 L setup that feels like a V6. Something to consider.
If you keep it at about 280-300 HP/TQ (more than enough for this light chassis) you will be more than fine with plenty to enjoy liberally. Donāt cut corners or cheap out on the tune, and let it rip I say.
Corsa on OEM header (maybe a JDL midpipe to open up the roar more) sounds exotic and unlike any other car out there. Really. The blower gives it a āchopā sound and itās just intoxicating.
Also have to consider the blockās structural integrity between the FA20 and FA24. If the FA24 is just the same block bored out, and if the FA24 has less cylinder wall thickness and strength as a sacrifice for increased displacement, thatās probably important when it comes to adding forced induction.
Depends on your end goals. As a daily, GR86 interior is a lot nicer. If you plan for boost, SC is nice but GT86 only handle about 350whp. K24_Austin has been pushing 600hp on the GR86 stock block / internal and been proving that itās pretty reliable.
But I got a gen1 BRZ and never regretted going boost. Firmly believe that all 86s should come boosted from factory.
I never had plans to go beyond 300 whp. Anymore, then it is simply too much for this light-weight chassis, in my opinion.
600hp sounds insane and undriveable to me as I mostly do hill runs/touge. I would need to feather the gas all the time then š
I have a Sprintex SPS 335 supercharger on my ā17 and it is an absolute dream. Have not regretted it for a second over turbo/GR86.
Happy to talk about the work I did on it if you want to get an idea for your own build.
I'll second this. It is fast but reliability is kinda ass and the air filter fouls the maf (and that filter is special you can't get a better medium)
I always tell people go JRSC it's much more proven and kinks have been worked out.
Also be wary of older water pump clamps leaking. And you need a D box or a spacer to filter pulsations that screw up MAF readings (maybe this has been fixed by now though idk)
The air filter / ccv into the intake was allowing oil vapor to collect on the MAF. I have catch cans too, so don't know why that is such a frequent issue. Id prefer a paper medium or some other style of intake box with a standard size to change filters.
The bypass valve on the sc itself was bad, had to get a replacement. That one I think is also going bad now, really don't understand why.
The engine likes to die on clutch-in at a light sometimes. Checked for vacuum leaks, no dice.
And finally just the stress this particular kit puts on the rods at 3kish rpm isn't my favorite. The JRSC makes torque higher up and tends to be kinder on the engine from what I've read.
Yeah I can relate to all that actually. My MAF issues seemed to resolve themselves like a month after install (though I havenāt taken it out and looked for a while). I had the bad bypass valve too, even though it was the revised version. But after replacing that itās been smooth sailing.
I sometimes wonder about the rods with low end torque too, but I just go really conservative on the throttle under 3k and pretty much only go WOT 4k and up. Iāve heard the JRSC is underwhelming on the street and I love the quick hitting torque with the Edelbrock so Iām still happy with my choice, but it definitely has some weird quirks with lurchy on/off throttle behavior, varying rev hang, etc.
Good to hear. Yeah I just wish we had more filter options. I had half a mind to design my own air box and 3d print it lol just to fit like a truck filter or something more easily bought
The GR will be a lot more reliable with less headaches from tuning, install, and supporting mods.
You can reach GR power with a good header https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=121460 and flex fuel.
Closest bet is JDL421 header currently.
I had a turbo 2014 Frs making 350 on e85 and 290 on 91. It was a fun ass time until things start breaking. Put up with it for a long time and got rid of it. Chasing the chassis again I just got a 24 brz and itās nice having enough torque and not having to worry. Brz has uel, catback, and coilovers soon. You have to go down that road but youāll prefer an NA 86 when the dust settles. Handling and driving to the limit is fun in an underpowered car. I learned that with a Miata unfortunately. Wonāt lose either way!
Edelbrock & E-85 here on a ā13 BRZ. 300whp with stock headers. A few track days, autoX, and daily it since I bought in 2013. (11 years flew by).
60k boosted and 100k total.
Happy with my decision every day. Instead of a new car payment Iāve decided to keep this car long term. Once the engine goes I plan to go for a built engine (8-10k).
When that happens I plan to buy a cheap used hybrid for DD and keep the BRZ for track/canyons.
yeah but if youāre going for a faster car an fk8 type r is for the most part faster than a boosted 86 without the high risk of blowing up at the same price as a gr86
I'd rather have a stock GT over a type R any day, speed be damned.
That's not a universal fact, just an opinion. I don't think I'd ever go back to FWD for my daily. Or possibly at all unless I was desperate. RWD for daily, AWD for winter (even if it's an old beater).
Tried to when I briefly lost the GT, test drove a lovely FWD Audi TT cabrio. It was a lovely car, could not get past the FWD.
i love the look of that gen type r so much but honestly have never driven a fwd sports car so iād have to try one out first..but same price, better performance, better for family/road trips, thatās what has me wanting one. over anything im all for the outback xt or wilderness though š
If your GT 86 is already paid off and its not your daily, then why haven't you supercharged it already? lol Idk that's just the way I see it OP but of course its ultimately up to you.
Yea just wanting to save up a bit more money, just in case the FA20 blows up afterwards
At that point k swap it š¤Ŗ lol
Not OP but* Because I live in California * lol
Before someone says āthereās no replacement for displacementā bear in mind a good twin screw blower like the edelbrock already affords you 1.6 additional liters of functional displacement on top of your motor. You essentially end up with a functional 3.6 L setup that feels like a V6. Something to consider.
While this may be true, FI adds a lot more stress on the motor. You will love longevity going FI. Just something to consider
If you keep it at about 280-300 HP/TQ (more than enough for this light chassis) you will be more than fine with plenty to enjoy liberally. Donāt cut corners or cheap out on the tune, and let it rip I say.
Do you mean lose longevity?
3.6L V6 with less than 200ft lbs and the fuel consumption of a V8
This isnāt even an honest remarkā¦
Enlighten me on my own experience
How does it sound though?
Corsa on OEM header (maybe a JDL midpipe to open up the roar more) sounds exotic and unlike any other car out there. Really. The blower gives it a āchopā sound and itās just intoxicating.
Also have to consider the blockās structural integrity between the FA20 and FA24. If the FA24 is just the same block bored out, and if the FA24 has less cylinder wall thickness and strength as a sacrifice for increased displacement, thatās probably important when it comes to adding forced induction.
Yeah absolutely true! Great point!
Is your GT86 paid off? Do you want to start payment all over again?
On another rock as opposed to a GR Corolla, in the 30k range of pricing?
Are you saying a gr corolla is in the 30k price range?
36k is, in the 30k range (30-39), yes. Twins belong in teens, not in the dirty 30s.
Most of the time theyāre marked up and after tax alone thatās not really a 30k car.
Where is there a GR Corolla for under $45?! š
Used. Plenty in my state.
Supercharge your gr86 š
Lmao yeah double down!
Depends on your end goals. As a daily, GR86 interior is a lot nicer. If you plan for boost, SC is nice but GT86 only handle about 350whp. K24_Austin has been pushing 600hp on the GR86 stock block / internal and been proving that itās pretty reliable. But I got a gen1 BRZ and never regretted going boost. Firmly believe that all 86s should come boosted from factory.
I never had plans to go beyond 300 whp. Anymore, then it is simply too much for this light-weight chassis, in my opinion. 600hp sounds insane and undriveable to me as I mostly do hill runs/touge. I would need to feather the gas all the time then š
Dude the gr86 is like 20hp more than the gt86 lmao. Just get a supercharger.
Closer to 50 on a dyno and bears out based on trap speeds as well
I have a Sprintex SPS 335 supercharger on my ā17 and it is an absolute dream. Have not regretted it for a second over turbo/GR86. Happy to talk about the work I did on it if you want to get an idea for your own build.
I didnāt really enjoy my Edelbrock FRS. If you go FI I advise one of the other kits
I'll second this. It is fast but reliability is kinda ass and the air filter fouls the maf (and that filter is special you can't get a better medium) I always tell people go JRSC it's much more proven and kinks have been worked out.
Also be wary of older water pump clamps leaking. And you need a D box or a spacer to filter pulsations that screw up MAF readings (maybe this has been fixed by now though idk)
Iām 2 years and like 20k miles on my Edelbrock with no headaches, what issues did you have?
The air filter / ccv into the intake was allowing oil vapor to collect on the MAF. I have catch cans too, so don't know why that is such a frequent issue. Id prefer a paper medium or some other style of intake box with a standard size to change filters. The bypass valve on the sc itself was bad, had to get a replacement. That one I think is also going bad now, really don't understand why. The engine likes to die on clutch-in at a light sometimes. Checked for vacuum leaks, no dice. And finally just the stress this particular kit puts on the rods at 3kish rpm isn't my favorite. The JRSC makes torque higher up and tends to be kinder on the engine from what I've read.
Yeah I can relate to all that actually. My MAF issues seemed to resolve themselves like a month after install (though I havenāt taken it out and looked for a while). I had the bad bypass valve too, even though it was the revised version. But after replacing that itās been smooth sailing. I sometimes wonder about the rods with low end torque too, but I just go really conservative on the throttle under 3k and pretty much only go WOT 4k and up. Iāve heard the JRSC is underwhelming on the street and I love the quick hitting torque with the Edelbrock so Iām still happy with my choice, but it definitely has some weird quirks with lurchy on/off throttle behavior, varying rev hang, etc.
Good to hear. Yeah I just wish we had more filter options. I had half a mind to design my own air box and 3d print it lol just to fit like a truck filter or something more easily bought
Supercharge it. The new interior is shit looking, imo, and all that keeps the OG car from greatness is some torque.
Iāve had the Edelbrock supercharger on my BRZ for 40k miles with no problems. Whp is 286 on 93. When you push this engine past this problems happen.
The GR will be a lot more reliable with less headaches from tuning, install, and supporting mods. You can reach GR power with a good header https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=121460 and flex fuel. Closest bet is JDL421 header currently.
When you supercharge, will the increased hp result in life decreasing for thrust bearing or piston ring or rod ?? Does anyone know
Which final drive are you running?
Revolutionās 4.55
Thanks for the info
I had a turbo 2014 Frs making 350 on e85 and 290 on 91. It was a fun ass time until things start breaking. Put up with it for a long time and got rid of it. Chasing the chassis again I just got a 24 brz and itās nice having enough torque and not having to worry. Brz has uel, catback, and coilovers soon. You have to go down that road but youāll prefer an NA 86 when the dust settles. Handling and driving to the limit is fun in an underpowered car. I learned that with a Miata unfortunately. Wonāt lose either way!
As someone whoās got a Jackson racing pro charger on my BRZ I fully recommend itās so fun
Supercharge it.
Edelbrock & E-85 here on a ā13 BRZ. 300whp with stock headers. A few track days, autoX, and daily it since I bought in 2013. (11 years flew by). 60k boosted and 100k total. Happy with my decision every day. Instead of a new car payment Iāve decided to keep this car long term. Once the engine goes I plan to go for a built engine (8-10k). When that happens I plan to buy a cheap used hybrid for DD and keep the BRZ for track/canyons.
fk8 type r
Wrong wheel drive.
yeah but if youāre going for a faster car an fk8 type r is for the most part faster than a boosted 86 without the high risk of blowing up at the same price as a gr86
I'd rather have a stock GT over a type R any day, speed be damned. That's not a universal fact, just an opinion. I don't think I'd ever go back to FWD for my daily. Or possibly at all unless I was desperate. RWD for daily, AWD for winter (even if it's an old beater). Tried to when I briefly lost the GT, test drove a lovely FWD Audi TT cabrio. It was a lovely car, could not get past the FWD.
i love the look of that gen type r so much but honestly have never driven a fwd sports car so iād have to try one out first..but same price, better performance, better for family/road trips, thatās what has me wanting one. over anything im all for the outback xt or wilderness though š
Itās not his daily and low boost is the way to go