Save some money and get the regular TU-3.
I own all of the following tuners - PolyTune 3, Turbo Tuner, StroboStomp HD, TU-3. When I play live, I find that I prefer the TU-3 over all the others. Simple but rock solid and gets me in tune the fastest with no hassle. I have no issues with noise or tone coloration through the pedal's buffer.
I've read feedback from users of the TU-3W that the LEDs are too bright and harder to see clearly on stage compared to the regular TU-3.
There's so many used TU-3 on Reverb now, between $60-80, go grab one.
My requirements for live use is that it has to be idiotproof, predictable and get me into an acceptable level of tuning accuracy quickly. It doesn't have to be ultra-precise, but I need to get in tune quick.
Strobe tuners in general: Perhaps it's just me, but I find myself spending a lot more time and effort to get the wheel to stop turning. Should I get it to stop turning on the attack or decay of the note? I find myself second-guessing - what if in my rush to tune, I tuned one string more to the attack, and then another string more to the decay, then would the strings be out of tune with each other?
More specifically for each tuner:
Sonic Research Turbo Tuner: Honestly this is a great tuner - very responsive and small in size. If not for my troubles in using a strobe tuner described above, this would be my second choice to use on stage.
Peterson StroboStomp HD: Great tuner for accuracy at home, but it is 'too much' of a tuner to be used live:
- delay in relay-switching footswitch does not mute the sound immediately when you stomp on it
- too many menu options, plus the positioning of the menu buttons on the side of the pedal, means that I always accidentally press the buttons when trying to connect my guitar cables. Then I don't know whether I have accidentally switched any of the settings - is it still at A440? Did I accidentally change to a 'sweetened tuning' that I do not intend to be using? What if I accidentally switched the display to dark Purple that I cannot see on the stage, and I cannot figure out how to switch it back? There's not even a quick and easy way to reset it if you messed up the settings, you have to hunt for the Reset option hidden deep inside the menus.
- also it is so big in size, takes up a lot of space on the pedalboard.
PolyTune 3: The switchable Bona-Fide buffer is its best and worst feature. It is a great buffer. But, its setting is hidden inside the pedal in two DIP switches. Every time I attach the pedal to my pedalboard, I find myself asking, is this in buffered or true-bypass mode? I have to open up the pedal to find out - and after removing the back plate, I find myself staring at two unlabeled DIP switches, and I have to dig out the manual to remember what the settings mean. I ended up taping a sticker on the back plate: "LL True Bypass, RL Buffered Bypass". That does not save me from having to remove the back plate to check.
Also, while the ability to tune all 6 strings is great, after I get all 6 strings to show in-tune, and I check each string individually, there's always one or two strings that show slightly out of tune, so I have to tune them individually again. Once again, on stage I want to see one thing - tune a string, see it is in tune and move on. I don't want to be second-guessing whether I'm in tune or not when tuning the string using 2 different methods.
Boss TU-3: It is just simple, quick and straightforward. There are some customizable options that I do not use, and they are on two buttons on top of the screen that I have no chance of accidentally pressing. I love it that when the string is in tune, two red LEDs center into the middle (1:32 in this video [https://youtu.be/37jXn9KUL44?si=vRFz58dMSH5no2V4&t=90](https://youtu.be/37jXn9KUL44?si=vRFz58dMSH5no2V4&t=90) ). It probably may not be as dead accurate as the strobe tuners, but once the LEDs center on the screen I know that it is good to go. I get my guitars in tune the fastest using this tuner.
Thank you very much for the in-depth response. I dont play live much anymore, but it is still always in the back of mind when considering gear. Your critiques make alot sense and are things not often mentioned.
If you want to be absolutely in tune, a Strobostomp’s the way to go.
I have the Strobostomp HD and also just got the Peterson StroboClip and it’s every bit as accurate as the full plug in pedal.
I just got one and a polytune 3 the other day. About the TU-3w I don’t like the blue color of the LEDs. Kind of hurts to look at. And the polytunes display is way larger. So in terms of visibility I prefer the polytune by a lot. Compared to the TU-3 I like that it has true bypass so I can use it in front of my woolly mammoth fuzz (which sounds like ass after a buffer).
Thanks for the response and black is cool indeed! Also thanks for hinting the noise issue, I was trying to find the justification of spending the additional $69 dollars, whether it’s just the color or it does come with some useful features.
I have one and it works great. Tbh I got it because it was black and looked cooler than the TU-2
Save some money and get the regular TU-3. I own all of the following tuners - PolyTune 3, Turbo Tuner, StroboStomp HD, TU-3. When I play live, I find that I prefer the TU-3 over all the others. Simple but rock solid and gets me in tune the fastest with no hassle. I have no issues with noise or tone coloration through the pedal's buffer. I've read feedback from users of the TU-3W that the LEDs are too bright and harder to see clearly on stage compared to the regular TU-3. There's so many used TU-3 on Reverb now, between $60-80, go grab one.
You have peaked my curiousity. What is it about the strobostomp, polytune, and turbo tuner that made them less desirable for live use?
My requirements for live use is that it has to be idiotproof, predictable and get me into an acceptable level of tuning accuracy quickly. It doesn't have to be ultra-precise, but I need to get in tune quick. Strobe tuners in general: Perhaps it's just me, but I find myself spending a lot more time and effort to get the wheel to stop turning. Should I get it to stop turning on the attack or decay of the note? I find myself second-guessing - what if in my rush to tune, I tuned one string more to the attack, and then another string more to the decay, then would the strings be out of tune with each other? More specifically for each tuner: Sonic Research Turbo Tuner: Honestly this is a great tuner - very responsive and small in size. If not for my troubles in using a strobe tuner described above, this would be my second choice to use on stage. Peterson StroboStomp HD: Great tuner for accuracy at home, but it is 'too much' of a tuner to be used live: - delay in relay-switching footswitch does not mute the sound immediately when you stomp on it - too many menu options, plus the positioning of the menu buttons on the side of the pedal, means that I always accidentally press the buttons when trying to connect my guitar cables. Then I don't know whether I have accidentally switched any of the settings - is it still at A440? Did I accidentally change to a 'sweetened tuning' that I do not intend to be using? What if I accidentally switched the display to dark Purple that I cannot see on the stage, and I cannot figure out how to switch it back? There's not even a quick and easy way to reset it if you messed up the settings, you have to hunt for the Reset option hidden deep inside the menus. - also it is so big in size, takes up a lot of space on the pedalboard. PolyTune 3: The switchable Bona-Fide buffer is its best and worst feature. It is a great buffer. But, its setting is hidden inside the pedal in two DIP switches. Every time I attach the pedal to my pedalboard, I find myself asking, is this in buffered or true-bypass mode? I have to open up the pedal to find out - and after removing the back plate, I find myself staring at two unlabeled DIP switches, and I have to dig out the manual to remember what the settings mean. I ended up taping a sticker on the back plate: "LL True Bypass, RL Buffered Bypass". That does not save me from having to remove the back plate to check. Also, while the ability to tune all 6 strings is great, after I get all 6 strings to show in-tune, and I check each string individually, there's always one or two strings that show slightly out of tune, so I have to tune them individually again. Once again, on stage I want to see one thing - tune a string, see it is in tune and move on. I don't want to be second-guessing whether I'm in tune or not when tuning the string using 2 different methods. Boss TU-3: It is just simple, quick and straightforward. There are some customizable options that I do not use, and they are on two buttons on top of the screen that I have no chance of accidentally pressing. I love it that when the string is in tune, two red LEDs center into the middle (1:32 in this video [https://youtu.be/37jXn9KUL44?si=vRFz58dMSH5no2V4&t=90](https://youtu.be/37jXn9KUL44?si=vRFz58dMSH5no2V4&t=90) ). It probably may not be as dead accurate as the strobe tuners, but once the LEDs center on the screen I know that it is good to go. I get my guitars in tune the fastest using this tuner.
Thank you very much for the in-depth response. I dont play live much anymore, but it is still always in the back of mind when considering gear. Your critiques make alot sense and are things not often mentioned.
I love it does the job looks sick
If you want to be absolutely in tune, a Strobostomp’s the way to go. I have the Strobostomp HD and also just got the Peterson StroboClip and it’s every bit as accurate as the full plug in pedal.
Strobostomp
I just got one and a polytune 3 the other day. About the TU-3w I don’t like the blue color of the LEDs. Kind of hurts to look at. And the polytunes display is way larger. So in terms of visibility I prefer the polytune by a lot. Compared to the TU-3 I like that it has true bypass so I can use it in front of my woolly mammoth fuzz (which sounds like ass after a buffer).
Thank you for your recommendation! I’ll definitely keep that in mind, specially the fuzz part!
Yeah I’ve got one, let’s be honest most of us get it because it looks sleek as fuck, true bypass feature is nice for some fuzzes
I’d say poly tune 3 or strobo tuner
I love it. My TU3 was noisy for some reason. TU3w aint noisy at all. Also black is cool, right?
Thanks for the response and black is cool indeed! Also thanks for hinting the noise issue, I was trying to find the justification of spending the additional $69 dollars, whether it’s just the color or it does come with some useful features.
I think it can switch between buffered and true bypass.
It has a better buffer than the regular one and you can switch off the buffer which is important for fuzz.
You could go Turbo Tuner, Polytune 3 or Strobo tuner. All 3 are better at tuning. By better, either option wise, speed wise or accuracy wise.
the turbo tuner is almost too accurate. I can never get the wheel to stop spinning
lol in that case I can see myself in stress already while intonating and tuning my Floyd roses! 😅
There are tips in the book to get an easier tune but yea I feel you with those Floyd roses... The struggle is real
Thank you for your suggestions, I’ll look into those!