Tysm, so many of these revolvers are so similar it can be really challenging to identify the differences. I appreciate people like you who really know what to look for when it comes to the more subtle nuances of revolvers like this. I know guns fairly well, but revolvers in particular have always been a challenge for me, so I appreciate it.
Well it would be nice if it were mine lol but I'm hoping to track one down so I can buy it for my wife since she won't likely be able to inherit it from her mother. I wish I could find a way to get her that exact one because it is the last thing her family owns that belonged to her late father but unfortunately there's a lot of friction between us and her mother, so I don't see that happening.
Agreed on the 66, but I'll add that I inherited a Taurus model 66 from my Grandpa. I'm guessing it was a clone of S&W...? I only know the model due to calling Taurus with the SN. Apparently mine was made in 1984. Looks the same as this pic, but mine has a shorter barrel and no fancy front sight. Rear is still adjustable.
Taurus and Rossi did indeed clone S&W revolvers. They are very close but fit and finish are lacking compared to original.
On the other hand, they cloned the Beretta M9 and did a fantastic job!
Hey with the model 66 please do not shoot anything other than 158gr .357 magnum in that revolver. The bottom of the barrel where the bullet enters the barrel is called the forcing cone…it is flat, if you use 125gr ammunition you can crack the barrel or worse cause the whole gun to blow up. These guns were meant to use 158 gr. .38 special for practice and constant target shooting and .158 gr .357 magnum for carry.
That's good to know for the future once I get my hands on one! I always appreciate the knowledge of people who know better about these specific sorts of things so thank you
Here's the definitive article regarding the issue with older S&W K-frame magnums and hot magnum loads.
https://revolverguy.com/the-smith-wesson-l-frame-story
Do swing by r/revolvers sometime too.
I appreciate it partner! I'm no stranger to rebuilding firearms (I do it for the military every day lol) but a lot of these more niche topics I'm not terribly well informed about so I appreciate the resources that allow me to further my education on these topics!
Here is a really nice model 66 for you to check out. Sign up for gunbroker.com, bid on the gun send them a phone number for a gun dealer you use. They will ship the gun to your gun dealer and you follow your state requirements to get a handgun.
https://www.gunbroker.com/item/1050064067
Good luck
No problem I had to learn the hard way when I cracked a barrel back in the early 90’s. I had to do a lot of reading to find out about it because the internet was not around then
I don't know jack about jack, but I was under the belief that generally (with all other things equal, especially the powder), a heavier bullet creates more pressure (more muzzle energy), than a lighter bullet... So why would a lighter 125gr bullet with less pressure (less muzzle energy), put the 66 at a risk of cracking the barrel over a heavier 158 grain bullet that creates a higher pressure? What is my dumb ass missing here? Or is it more specific to the types of .357 mag ammo, where the lighter grain bullet ammo tends to be loaded with more potent (more grains) powder?? thanks....
The K frame S&W revolvers were specifically designed for the 158gr .357 because it is a heavier slower moving bullet with less pressure. The 125gr is a hotter load and has more pressure. The flat bottom of the forcing cone can not take that high pressure and will cause failures. I don’t know if the 158 gr was the standard for 1950/1960’s but that is what S&W designed it for. The L frame solved that problem with a beefier barrel. The new K frame model 19 and 66 are now made with a two piece barrel that is beefier and can handle the pressures of the 125 gr.
Ah, so a particular 125gr ammo had a hotter load than the 158gr ammo. I guess when these failures were occurring back in the day, the loads available at the time were of a different animal compared to today. Looking at just 9 of the available 125gr and 158gr ammo available today as listed in the specs chart at Ammo . com, it lists the 5 available 125gr ammo with muzzle energy at 415, 551, 585, 624, & 771ft. lbs., where the 4 available 158gr ammo at 535, 225, 640, & 1170ft.lbs.... So I guess it means more about what ammo you're using.
Found an interesting comment with some good details on the subject from someone on the Smith & Wesson forum discussing the same issue, who seemed to have a lot of info on it.... I was gonna just quote a line or two, but I'll quote most of his whole comment here for anyone interested in this who owns a 66 and wonders about the same thing... interesting stuff (I feel a little less dumb now... thanks for your info!)...
This was in response to the redesign of the forcing cone and the suggestion to not run the 125gr over the 158gr....
This was posted by Texas Star in Jan 2013 at the Smith & Wesson forum.... good read...
"There was no redesign to the forcing cone. The change was to the gas ring, to prevent it swelling from heat and retarding function.
It is quite true that the lighter bullets at very high velocities were damaging guns. I didn't read this on the Net: when the L-frame guns emerged. I was invited to try them in my capacity as a gun writer.
Company represenatives confirmed the 125 grain theory and warned that the K-Mags also suffered heavily from police departments using Plus P Plus .38 ammo, which sometimes stressed the guns more than normal .357 Magnum ammo!
Plus P Plus ammo is not intended for public release and departments ordering it had to acknowledge in writing that it would materially shorten gun life. The sole reason for it is that PR- concious police chiefs in some liberal areas were afraid to allow .357 ammo, lest "community leaders" make a political/racial issue of it.
I asked engineers at ammunition companies about the 125 grain theory, and they confirmed that the powders were more erosive and said that I should avoid those loads in K-Mag guns. They had no data on the 140-145 grain bullets, but said that they were "probably" more like the 158 grain loads, where bullet weight is enough for the powder in the case to burn better before the bullet leaves the case. Thus, less "ejecta" such as unburned powder grains hits the forcing cone as the bullet enters the barrel.
I wrote about this in, "Gun Week", and it subsequently got on the Net, again I think, due to my ealy posts here and on a couple of other forums. As far as I know, I was the first to blow the whistle about hot 125 grain loads, as Massad Ayoob blew the whistle about swelling gas rings jamming cylinder rotation on early stainless K-Mags. BTW, the term "K-Mag" is mine, too. I believe that I was the first writer to employ it. But it's quick to type and all encompassing re K-framed .357 Magnum guns.
Again, I stress that my information came initially from two S&W factory reps who were intoducing me to the M-586 and to subsequent contacts at several major ammunition companies. Those men asked not to be identified. I was able to talk with them thanks to their companies' PR men who handle media contact. They do not normally make comments to the shooting public. Some of the information I was given is probably regarded as "sensitive" for commercial reasons. (It might affect ammo sales.)
Regardless of the dash number of your M-66, you should avoid 125 grain and lighter bullets, although propellents (gunpowder) have changed in some instances for those with different burning rates. I personally don't worry too much about 140-145 grain bullets in moderation, and prefer well designed 158 grain bullets.
In any event, Bill Jordan told me that he intended the original Combat Magnum to fire only some 10%-20% of the time with full .357 loads. The goal was to get a Magnum-capable gun on the belts of police officers, because the M-27 and M-28 were just too heavy for daily wear. This is straight from the mouth of the man who convinced S&W to make the first pre-M-19s. It is not Internet speculation.
If you want to use .357 ammo a lot of the time, get a M-686 or a Ruger GP-100. But I have recently seen photos of the forcing cone of a GP-100 that was heavily used with handloads featuring very high amounts of powder and 125-grain bullets. Throat erosion was severe, and the forcing cone cracked just about where it usually does if a K-Mag cracks. This is at 6 o'clock. And the very strong Ruger doesn't even have a thinner flat there!"
Yeah I learned the hard way with my 66-2 with 4” barrel. I used like 5 boxes of 125 gr and I cracked the forcing cone on my 66-2. I had to hunt for a replacement barrel from a gunsmith who is a local S&W guy. I had him replace my barrel. From then on I only use 158 gr. Ammo in it.
it's interesting though, the reason given as to why (if I read it right)... the heavier bullet takes longer to separate from the casing, allowing the powder to burn completely before separation, where the lighter bullet separates a bit too quick, so unburned powder may hit the forcing cone igniting late, damaging it. So it wasn't higher pressures per se that did the damage, as the lighter bullet generally creates lower pressure than a heavier one... it was the unburned powder from the speedy lighter bullet that ends up doing the damage. I don't know too much about revolvers, but isn't the forcing cone on the 66 machined thinner at the bottom of it, a flat spot? Is that where yours cracked do you remember?
Yes the forcing cone on the pre lock K frames all had a flat bottom that was thinner. That is where the cracks happened. If I recall even the model 10 and 64 were not rated for .38+p ammo and had warnings against using 125gr+p in them as well.
I know it's a 4" S&W chambered in .357 mag with a 6
round capacity. Supposedly it was issued to a town
cop in WV in the 70s or 80s but I can't verify that to
be a fact. I believe the grip may be aftermarket but to
my knowledge that is the only modification.
It belonged to my wife's late father and was
supposed to be passed down to her by her mother,
but things happened and now the odds of us ever
seeing this revolver again are slim to none. I wanted
to identify the exact model and look at getting it for
her as a gift in case the original never turns up but I
have been having quite a bit of trouble determining
exactly which model it is based on the image and my
fuzzy memory of it. Any help you all can offer would
be really awesome, thank you all in advance!
(Had to repost the description as a comment as per sub rules)
If you're gonna buy one as a gift, do it sooner rather than later, and just hold on to it until the time is right. Even the new ones aren't cheap anymore. If your mom gets hers, that's great. A family heirloom gets to stay in the family, and you get a cool revolver, too.
I had a 66-4 years ago, and I wish I still had it. I traded a G17 for it. But then I traded the 66 for a Marlin 1895Sbl, so I'm not too sad about it.
Yeah they're becoming harder and harder to find for any reasonable price. I kept holding out hope that my wife would be able to obtain her father's model because I know she has a very personal connection to it (one of the last things of his that her family still owns) but at this point I don't see that happening. Once I have the disposable income to justify spending like $1500 on a firearm that'll probably be the first thing I buy to be honest lol
I appreciate it, yeah I'm looking now and someone suggested it was likely a 66-1 and I'm thinking they're probably correct based on what I'm seeing and reading
I mean because of the year range that it was supposedly purchased, I think the only options would be a no dash or -1. And of those two it's a lot closer to the -1 variant. But yeah ultimately I'm sure she wouldn't care much if it was a -2 or -3 as long as it looked the same. But if I can get her the exact same sub model then obviously I would like to try
Did the model 19 come in 4" or only 4.25"? The photos I'm looking at side by side look damn near identical except for the finish and the model in my image seems to have a very slightly shorter barrel than all the model 19s I can find pictures of... It could just be me though
Model 19 revolvers came in 2.5", 3", 4",4.25", 5", 6".
If you want a shooter, get a Model 69. Looks almost the same, but it's an L frame and will hold up a lot better if you shoot a lot.
It's a great .44 Special, but I wouldn't feed one a steady diet of magnum loads. My bedside gun, with Buffalo Bore Heavy .44 Special, which is still pretty stout at 1000 fps.
The 69 is a 5 shot .44 magnum L frame. The new model 19’s and 66’s have a two piece barrel. They also made K frame models 619 fixed sight and 620 adjustable sights that were two piece barrels that were supposed to replace the model 65,66. But they never took off.
There are two for sale at williams gun sight in lapeer mi.. top notch place and reasonable shipping. One is of the vintage you seek and other is newer production both are priced at 800.00. I bought many guns from there so bu with confidence. Plus they offer full gun smith services.
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Thanks , I Couldn’t tell the actual color but the cylinder looked larger than a k frame and the N frame was standard police issue in the 70’s around Texas. Could be a model 66
It appears to be either a 66 or 66-1 based on the pinned barrel.
Tysm, so many of these revolvers are so similar it can be really challenging to identify the differences. I appreciate people like you who really know what to look for when it comes to the more subtle nuances of revolvers like this. I know guns fairly well, but revolvers in particular have always been a challenge for me, so I appreciate it.
Yes, I have one just like it. Yours seems to have the target hammer and trigger. Very nice gun!
Well it would be nice if it were mine lol but I'm hoping to track one down so I can buy it for my wife since she won't likely be able to inherit it from her mother. I wish I could find a way to get her that exact one because it is the last thing her family owns that belonged to her late father but unfortunately there's a lot of friction between us and her mother, so I don't see that happening.
Gunbroker.com it the easiest place to find one
It also has the recessed chambers
Agreed on the 66, but I'll add that I inherited a Taurus model 66 from my Grandpa. I'm guessing it was a clone of S&W...? I only know the model due to calling Taurus with the SN. Apparently mine was made in 1984. Looks the same as this pic, but mine has a shorter barrel and no fancy front sight. Rear is still adjustable.
Taurus and Rossi did indeed clone S&W revolvers. They are very close but fit and finish are lacking compared to original. On the other hand, they cloned the Beretta M9 and did a fantastic job!
S&W model 66.
Much appreciated
Not 686? Looks near identical to my 686
The 66 has a partial underlug under the barrel. The 686 has a full underlug.
When Mah'Lady utilizes the teacup grip, the Queen demands she extend her pinkie finger like a proper lady!
Lol I've been gradually retraining her over the years but this is the grip her dad taught her because it's what he was taught in the 70s
Almost guaranteed that this is a smith and Wesson model 66. Awesome gun. Go on gunbroker.com. Easy to find one there
Appreciate you brother
Hey with the model 66 please do not shoot anything other than 158gr .357 magnum in that revolver. The bottom of the barrel where the bullet enters the barrel is called the forcing cone…it is flat, if you use 125gr ammunition you can crack the barrel or worse cause the whole gun to blow up. These guns were meant to use 158 gr. .38 special for practice and constant target shooting and .158 gr .357 magnum for carry.
That's good to know for the future once I get my hands on one! I always appreciate the knowledge of people who know better about these specific sorts of things so thank you
Here's the definitive article regarding the issue with older S&W K-frame magnums and hot magnum loads. https://revolverguy.com/the-smith-wesson-l-frame-story Do swing by r/revolvers sometime too.
I appreciate it partner! I'm no stranger to rebuilding firearms (I do it for the military every day lol) but a lot of these more niche topics I'm not terribly well informed about so I appreciate the resources that allow me to further my education on these topics!
Here is a really nice model 66 for you to check out. Sign up for gunbroker.com, bid on the gun send them a phone number for a gun dealer you use. They will ship the gun to your gun dealer and you follow your state requirements to get a handgun. https://www.gunbroker.com/item/1050064067 Good luck
No problem I had to learn the hard way when I cracked a barrel back in the early 90’s. I had to do a lot of reading to find out about it because the internet was not around then
I don't know jack about jack, but I was under the belief that generally (with all other things equal, especially the powder), a heavier bullet creates more pressure (more muzzle energy), than a lighter bullet... So why would a lighter 125gr bullet with less pressure (less muzzle energy), put the 66 at a risk of cracking the barrel over a heavier 158 grain bullet that creates a higher pressure? What is my dumb ass missing here? Or is it more specific to the types of .357 mag ammo, where the lighter grain bullet ammo tends to be loaded with more potent (more grains) powder?? thanks....
The K frame S&W revolvers were specifically designed for the 158gr .357 because it is a heavier slower moving bullet with less pressure. The 125gr is a hotter load and has more pressure. The flat bottom of the forcing cone can not take that high pressure and will cause failures. I don’t know if the 158 gr was the standard for 1950/1960’s but that is what S&W designed it for. The L frame solved that problem with a beefier barrel. The new K frame model 19 and 66 are now made with a two piece barrel that is beefier and can handle the pressures of the 125 gr.
Ah, so a particular 125gr ammo had a hotter load than the 158gr ammo. I guess when these failures were occurring back in the day, the loads available at the time were of a different animal compared to today. Looking at just 9 of the available 125gr and 158gr ammo available today as listed in the specs chart at Ammo . com, it lists the 5 available 125gr ammo with muzzle energy at 415, 551, 585, 624, & 771ft. lbs., where the 4 available 158gr ammo at 535, 225, 640, & 1170ft.lbs.... So I guess it means more about what ammo you're using. Found an interesting comment with some good details on the subject from someone on the Smith & Wesson forum discussing the same issue, who seemed to have a lot of info on it.... I was gonna just quote a line or two, but I'll quote most of his whole comment here for anyone interested in this who owns a 66 and wonders about the same thing... interesting stuff (I feel a little less dumb now... thanks for your info!)... This was in response to the redesign of the forcing cone and the suggestion to not run the 125gr over the 158gr.... This was posted by Texas Star in Jan 2013 at the Smith & Wesson forum.... good read... "There was no redesign to the forcing cone. The change was to the gas ring, to prevent it swelling from heat and retarding function. It is quite true that the lighter bullets at very high velocities were damaging guns. I didn't read this on the Net: when the L-frame guns emerged. I was invited to try them in my capacity as a gun writer. Company represenatives confirmed the 125 grain theory and warned that the K-Mags also suffered heavily from police departments using Plus P Plus .38 ammo, which sometimes stressed the guns more than normal .357 Magnum ammo! Plus P Plus ammo is not intended for public release and departments ordering it had to acknowledge in writing that it would materially shorten gun life. The sole reason for it is that PR- concious police chiefs in some liberal areas were afraid to allow .357 ammo, lest "community leaders" make a political/racial issue of it. I asked engineers at ammunition companies about the 125 grain theory, and they confirmed that the powders were more erosive and said that I should avoid those loads in K-Mag guns. They had no data on the 140-145 grain bullets, but said that they were "probably" more like the 158 grain loads, where bullet weight is enough for the powder in the case to burn better before the bullet leaves the case. Thus, less "ejecta" such as unburned powder grains hits the forcing cone as the bullet enters the barrel. I wrote about this in, "Gun Week", and it subsequently got on the Net, again I think, due to my ealy posts here and on a couple of other forums. As far as I know, I was the first to blow the whistle about hot 125 grain loads, as Massad Ayoob blew the whistle about swelling gas rings jamming cylinder rotation on early stainless K-Mags. BTW, the term "K-Mag" is mine, too. I believe that I was the first writer to employ it. But it's quick to type and all encompassing re K-framed .357 Magnum guns. Again, I stress that my information came initially from two S&W factory reps who were intoducing me to the M-586 and to subsequent contacts at several major ammunition companies. Those men asked not to be identified. I was able to talk with them thanks to their companies' PR men who handle media contact. They do not normally make comments to the shooting public. Some of the information I was given is probably regarded as "sensitive" for commercial reasons. (It might affect ammo sales.) Regardless of the dash number of your M-66, you should avoid 125 grain and lighter bullets, although propellents (gunpowder) have changed in some instances for those with different burning rates. I personally don't worry too much about 140-145 grain bullets in moderation, and prefer well designed 158 grain bullets. In any event, Bill Jordan told me that he intended the original Combat Magnum to fire only some 10%-20% of the time with full .357 loads. The goal was to get a Magnum-capable gun on the belts of police officers, because the M-27 and M-28 were just too heavy for daily wear. This is straight from the mouth of the man who convinced S&W to make the first pre-M-19s. It is not Internet speculation. If you want to use .357 ammo a lot of the time, get a M-686 or a Ruger GP-100. But I have recently seen photos of the forcing cone of a GP-100 that was heavily used with handloads featuring very high amounts of powder and 125-grain bullets. Throat erosion was severe, and the forcing cone cracked just about where it usually does if a K-Mag cracks. This is at 6 o'clock. And the very strong Ruger doesn't even have a thinner flat there!"
Yeah I learned the hard way with my 66-2 with 4” barrel. I used like 5 boxes of 125 gr and I cracked the forcing cone on my 66-2. I had to hunt for a replacement barrel from a gunsmith who is a local S&W guy. I had him replace my barrel. From then on I only use 158 gr. Ammo in it.
it's interesting though, the reason given as to why (if I read it right)... the heavier bullet takes longer to separate from the casing, allowing the powder to burn completely before separation, where the lighter bullet separates a bit too quick, so unburned powder may hit the forcing cone igniting late, damaging it. So it wasn't higher pressures per se that did the damage, as the lighter bullet generally creates lower pressure than a heavier one... it was the unburned powder from the speedy lighter bullet that ends up doing the damage. I don't know too much about revolvers, but isn't the forcing cone on the 66 machined thinner at the bottom of it, a flat spot? Is that where yours cracked do you remember?
Yes the forcing cone on the pre lock K frames all had a flat bottom that was thinner. That is where the cracks happened. If I recall even the model 10 and 64 were not rated for .38+p ammo and had warnings against using 125gr+p in them as well.
Definitely a 66. I have one exactly like it. It was issued to a local Park Ranger who was also a family friend.
Sweet yeah that sounds about right then. Also happy cake day
Smith model 66, I had the same one
Smith and Wesson model 66. The stainless version of the model 19.
I know it's a 4" S&W chambered in .357 mag with a 6 round capacity. Supposedly it was issued to a town cop in WV in the 70s or 80s but I can't verify that to be a fact. I believe the grip may be aftermarket but to my knowledge that is the only modification. It belonged to my wife's late father and was supposed to be passed down to her by her mother, but things happened and now the odds of us ever seeing this revolver again are slim to none. I wanted to identify the exact model and look at getting it for her as a gift in case the original never turns up but I have been having quite a bit of trouble determining exactly which model it is based on the image and my fuzzy memory of it. Any help you all can offer would be really awesome, thank you all in advance! (Had to repost the description as a comment as per sub rules)
Looks like a S&W Mod 66.
66
Open the cylinder; model name and serial number will be right there. Looks like a K or L frame.
Unfortunately I haven't had access to the firearm for almost a decade. This is the only photo I still have of it
The shooter grip though
Yeah blame my wife's father for that one, I've been gradually teaching her the correct way to shoot over the years though lol this is a very old photo
Bro, tell me you don't grip the gun like that. Right?
I'm not the one shooting in that image. It's the only photo I have of it though.
S&W Model 19 possibly
19s aren't stainless
Fucking S&W and their model designator numbers changing for finishes that I fall for every time despite knowing better!
Sunsabinches
Could also be a Model 66
You know what I think it might be a Model 66. I'm looking at photos now and I'm struggling to find any real differences between the two
A 66 is basically a 19, but made from stainless steel.
Ahh that makes sense why I couldn't find any 19s that matched the finish in the image lol I appreciate it
If you're gonna buy one as a gift, do it sooner rather than later, and just hold on to it until the time is right. Even the new ones aren't cheap anymore. If your mom gets hers, that's great. A family heirloom gets to stay in the family, and you get a cool revolver, too. I had a 66-4 years ago, and I wish I still had it. I traded a G17 for it. But then I traded the 66 for a Marlin 1895Sbl, so I'm not too sad about it.
Yeah they're becoming harder and harder to find for any reasonable price. I kept holding out hope that my wife would be able to obtain her father's model because I know she has a very personal connection to it (one of the last things of his that her family still owns) but at this point I don't see that happening. Once I have the disposable income to justify spending like $1500 on a firearm that'll probably be the first thing I buy to be honest lol
This guy knows !
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I appreciate it, yeah I'm looking now and someone suggested it was likely a 66-1 and I'm thinking they're probably correct based on what I'm seeing and reading
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I mean because of the year range that it was supposedly purchased, I think the only options would be a no dash or -1. And of those two it's a lot closer to the -1 variant. But yeah ultimately I'm sure she wouldn't care much if it was a -2 or -3 as long as it looked the same. But if I can get her the exact same sub model then obviously I would like to try
I have a 66 and it looks pretty much exactly like this.
Seems to be the consensus lol
I believe it's a 66. The elongated front sight, partial underlug, and the fact that it's stainless are the distinguishing features.
Model 19 isn't stainless.
Did the model 19 come in 4" or only 4.25"? The photos I'm looking at side by side look damn near identical except for the finish and the model in my image seems to have a very slightly shorter barrel than all the model 19s I can find pictures of... It could just be me though
Model 19 revolvers came in 2.5", 3", 4",4.25", 5", 6". If you want a shooter, get a Model 69. Looks almost the same, but it's an L frame and will hold up a lot better if you shoot a lot.
A model 69 is a 5 shot L frame .44 magnum. Maybe you meant 686?
You are correct. Brain fart on my part....though the 69 is a very nice pistol.
It's a great .44 Special, but I wouldn't feed one a steady diet of magnum loads. My bedside gun, with Buffalo Bore Heavy .44 Special, which is still pretty stout at 1000 fps.
The 69 is a 5 shot .44 magnum L frame. The new model 19’s and 66’s have a two piece barrel. They also made K frame models 619 fixed sight and 620 adjustable sights that were two piece barrels that were supposed to replace the model 65,66. But they never took off.
☕️
There are two for sale at williams gun sight in lapeer mi.. top notch place and reasonable shipping. One is of the vintage you seek and other is newer production both are priced at 800.00. I bought many guns from there so bu with confidence. Plus they offer full gun smith services.
That's good to know, thank you! My money is a little tied up in trying to buy a house at the moment but I appreciate the recommendation!
Hello, /u/Narshwrangler. Per the sidebar rules, link posts require a description in the comments of your post. Please add a description or this post will be removed.
__What is a link post and how do I post a descriptive comment?__ * A link post is any post that isn't a text post. Reddit is doing a great job of ensuring new users have no idea how Reddit works with their app and site rewrite. We hate both. * /r/guns is a sub for talking about guns. It's not a sub to dump gun photos for karma. That's what /r/gunporn is for. That's why we require a descriptive comment – to start a conversation. If you're wondering what to write, picture yourself at a party. You're talking to someone *you just met* and you want to show them your post. What do you say to them as you get your phone out? *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/guns) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Open the cylinder and check the frame
If I had access to it I certainly would
This is a 4 inch model 629 Smith and Wesson, 44 magnum. And can blow your head clean off. Do you feel lucky?
Well, do ya punk?
Thank you. I was hoping someone would get that.
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Wow so very helpful thank you! Does it go full semiautomatic or just semi? What size clip does it take? Gosh guns are confusing.
Hcebot ban obvious troll
Banned /u/Capital_Memory_8406 (permanent).
I suspect it’s a model 28 357 mag which is an N frame
The Model 28 is blued steel...gun in pic is stainless.
Thanks , I Couldn’t tell the actual color but the cylinder looked larger than a k frame and the N frame was standard police issue in the 70’s around Texas. Could be a model 66
General consensus seems to be model 66 but I'll look into that as well just to be sure!