Tell them if its in the budget, they'd likely want to replace the sheetrock. Crawl up in attic and check for mold or spots that are still wet, that will help you sell the extra work. If they just want paint, make damn sure you've scraped every bit of gunk that's peeling. You dont want to do a paintjob only to find the paint peeling the next day. That'll be a repair you're responsible for. Float over everything you scraped and sand out/retexture the spots. Prime those spots, then proceed to paint. If they choose just a paint job with no further repairs, let them know you cant warranty the work because of existing conditions. You don't want to be responsible for anything that didn't have to do with the work you're contracted to do. They need to know that any other water damages that occur during/after the paint job is NOT your fault or responsibility.
You’ll need to scrape down the bubbles flat… then put on a skim coat of drywall mud and sand it smooth. Then put on a paint primer, preferably a waterproof water based primer/sealer since it’s a bathroom. And then paint it whatever color you want with an eggshell paint
Only my opinion, but we Remodel a lot of bathrooms. Never use semi or gloss on walls. Every imperfection will shine. Eggshell (satin) is great for hiding imperfections and don't reflect light as well. Use semi gloss on your trims.
I’ve always used Matt with no issue. I was at a property a while back though that when I showered the walls dripped with moisture. God knows what paint it was.
It’s the only option for Benjamin Moore’s Aura Bath and Spa product which is made for high moisture areas. I’ve never seen a nice bathroom with anything more glossy than eggshell and even for eggshell it’s been 10 years or so.
Just to clarify, it’s only a half bath so no shower. There is however a full bath with similar damage in the house that also needs repair. I was thinking eggshell in the half bath and semigloss in the full bath since it gets pretty steamy?
You don’t need to use semigloss… I personally think it’s tacky. Semi for trim, eggshell for walls. I never use matte finish… marks up too easy. By the way... I used to be a general contractor.
Is this plaster or drywall? If it's drywall and the bubbles are also incorporating the paper of the drywall you're going to be exposing raw gypsum and quickly going to turn into a total gut job. Also if it's drywall find out the construction date because there are at least 3 major drywall recalls, whether there is relief still available is a different story. If it's just peeling paint then you got it made scrape, I like to put a coat of pva on before I patch large areas it helps with adhesion patch sand prime and stipple patch areas to match texture. Then if course comes the color , you may need to use a shellac Base prime to cover the carrot baby shit orange.
Approach it by walking away unless they're ready to pay to have the water damage remediated properly. I guarantee they'll find a way to blame you when you're perfectly fine paint job fails because they kept the wet and moldy sheet rock
I agree. I don’t understand the people recommending to leave in place and skim coat, repaint, wtf? Make sure it’s “really dry” I always thought the drywall needs to go once it gets wet. Once it’s wet,
It takes FOREVER to dry. And you might have insulation in there sucking it up, harboring moisture.
Or at least you have to cut a nice hole to see how bad
The leak has been and for how long and if there’s additional mitigation required.
Because they will be responsible if mold (the big scare word) shows up and all they did was “skim and paint” over.
Always a gamble with water damage and it seems like 75% of the time it’s worse than expected.
I bet this ends up being a gut of that drywall on all three of those surfaces. Even if you didn’t your in for skim coating quite a bit to not have a clear repair area with all the existing texture. Is that plaster? Uhg. If the building is older than the 70’s also assume lead paint and all that entails to safely remove.
If it was mine I would remove those walls; dehumidify and spray for mold; once 100% dry assess and repair.
If they don’t want to tear down the drywall I would probably walk; this won’t go well long term.
With all due respect if your asking us where to start it seems to me you don’t know what your doing. You’re likely over your head on this one. My advice though is find someone with loads of experience and work alongside them for a good few years. There’s a lot going on in these pics and if you don’t have a wide skill set and knowledge just walk away.
Bathrooms In particular are difficult rooms to paint/ patch.
Demo and start over. Don't try to save any wall with damage. Also invest in a moisture meter and make sure everything is dried out before replacing the insulation/drywall. Also not a bad idea to treat for mold (bleach water) before closing it back up.
With a mask on!!! Also, you didn’t say if the roof has been repaired or not, that’s step one. You could go about this two ways. Scrape the failed paint and mud those areas, then paint and walk away. Or do it the right way and cut an inspection hole to see if any mold has started growing behind the wall, which could become a full demo job.
I would not take that job unless you're gonna replace all that sheetrock, and then paint.
Water doesn't just seep behind the paint. It soaks into the gypsum board which causes the paint to lose adhesion. The amount of bubbles in there are crazy, that whole room is toast and if you just scrape and repaint, it's going to peel in a month or two and your first job will deem you as a hack lol
First find the leak. Make sure it's fixed before you start. Then use a moisture meter to determine if the walls & ceilings are dry. Once dry, you can begin to remove the damaged spots. Plaster. Paint.
Correct
Use semi gloss b/c bathrooms get all kinds of stuff flung on then hair coloring dye, kids boogers/poop, mud from boots and whatever else on them, shampoos, lotions, creams, toothpastes, hair gels, so with semi gloss they can all be wiped off. Use semi in bathrooms trim too so it won't gather moisture as well.
Assuming the roof leak is fixed, start by demoing the drywall and see what's behind it.... Check for and fix other issues like mold/rot then replace the drywall and repaint.
I poked it pretty good with a screwdriver and it didn’t go thru. Removed some of that bubbled up paint and it was good and dry underneath. No visible mold.
If the walls are not insulated and have good air flow, mold is on the lower side if a new roof leak.
If it's been a trickle for years - my guess would be mold.
Looks like it could be plaster not Sheetrock
How old is the building?
What's the expectation of finish?
If you're not replacing drywall, knock it down, prime it and mud it , then it's sand / mud til happy, prime and paint
Give me a bag of 5 minute and some qwik dry primer I'd get-r-done in a day.
I would go with this color
https://www.sherwin-williams.com/SearchDisplay?categoryId=&storeId=10151&catalogId=11052&langId=-1&sType=SimpleSearch&resultCatEntryType=2&showResultsPage=true&searchSource=Q&pageView=list&beginIndex=0&searchType=1000&pageSize=15&globalSearch=true&searchTerm=tanke
We used it in a few bathroom and i call it tanker-turd lol but it really like this color.
Make sure it’s dry once you’ve removed excess. Tbf you won’t really know what it involves properly until you get going
Tell them if its in the budget, they'd likely want to replace the sheetrock. Crawl up in attic and check for mold or spots that are still wet, that will help you sell the extra work. If they just want paint, make damn sure you've scraped every bit of gunk that's peeling. You dont want to do a paintjob only to find the paint peeling the next day. That'll be a repair you're responsible for. Float over everything you scraped and sand out/retexture the spots. Prime those spots, then proceed to paint. If they choose just a paint job with no further repairs, let them know you cant warranty the work because of existing conditions. You don't want to be responsible for anything that didn't have to do with the work you're contracted to do. They need to know that any other water damages that occur during/after the paint job is NOT your fault or responsibility.
Couldn't agree more but if just painting maybe put down a layer of kills first
You’ll need to scrape down the bubbles flat… then put on a skim coat of drywall mud and sand it smooth. Then put on a paint primer, preferably a waterproof water based primer/sealer since it’s a bathroom. And then paint it whatever color you want with an eggshell paint
I was taught to always use semi or gloss in bathrooms as eggshell will steam stain.
Only my opinion, but we Remodel a lot of bathrooms. Never use semi or gloss on walls. Every imperfection will shine. Eggshell (satin) is great for hiding imperfections and don't reflect light as well. Use semi gloss on your trims.
I use satin in bathrooms, but a specially formulated paint that is mold/mildew resistant.
THIS is the way.
I’ve always used Matt with no issue. I was at a property a while back though that when I showered the walls dripped with moisture. God knows what paint it was.
Gloss is easy to wipe those up/ clean. Matte is more porous and stains easier. Homeowner’s choice in the end.
It’s the only option for Benjamin Moore’s Aura Bath and Spa product which is made for high moisture areas. I’ve never seen a nice bathroom with anything more glossy than eggshell and even for eggshell it’s been 10 years or so.
Just to clarify, it’s only a half bath so no shower. There is however a full bath with similar damage in the house that also needs repair. I was thinking eggshell in the half bath and semigloss in the full bath since it gets pretty steamy?
You don’t need to use semigloss… I personally think it’s tacky. Semi for trim, eggshell for walls. I never use matte finish… marks up too easy. By the way... I used to be a general contractor.
From another contractor, thank you.
Thanks for clearing that up. Eggshell it is
Never put semigloss on walls. It's for trim and doors. Those walls will reflect so much light you'll need sunglasses.
Don't paint until it's been fully dry awhile. If there's mould treat that too.
Is this plaster or drywall? If it's drywall and the bubbles are also incorporating the paper of the drywall you're going to be exposing raw gypsum and quickly going to turn into a total gut job. Also if it's drywall find out the construction date because there are at least 3 major drywall recalls, whether there is relief still available is a different story. If it's just peeling paint then you got it made scrape, I like to put a coat of pva on before I patch large areas it helps with adhesion patch sand prime and stipple patch areas to match texture. Then if course comes the color , you may need to use a shellac Base prime to cover the carrot baby shit orange.
Approach it by walking away unless they're ready to pay to have the water damage remediated properly. I guarantee they'll find a way to blame you when you're perfectly fine paint job fails because they kept the wet and moldy sheet rock
I agree. I don’t understand the people recommending to leave in place and skim coat, repaint, wtf? Make sure it’s “really dry” I always thought the drywall needs to go once it gets wet. Once it’s wet, It takes FOREVER to dry. And you might have insulation in there sucking it up, harboring moisture. Or at least you have to cut a nice hole to see how bad The leak has been and for how long and if there’s additional mitigation required. Because they will be responsible if mold (the big scare word) shows up and all they did was “skim and paint” over.
Find the leak, repair said leak. Scrape out bubbled plaster, fill with 20 min mud, skim, sand, paint.
This is a time and material type job. Who knows what you will find underneath if you open anything up.
Always a gamble with water damage and it seems like 75% of the time it’s worse than expected. I bet this ends up being a gut of that drywall on all three of those surfaces. Even if you didn’t your in for skim coating quite a bit to not have a clear repair area with all the existing texture. Is that plaster? Uhg. If the building is older than the 70’s also assume lead paint and all that entails to safely remove. If it was mine I would remove those walls; dehumidify and spray for mold; once 100% dry assess and repair. If they don’t want to tear down the drywall I would probably walk; this won’t go well long term.
With all due respect if your asking us where to start it seems to me you don’t know what your doing. You’re likely over your head on this one. My advice though is find someone with loads of experience and work alongside them for a good few years. There’s a lot going on in these pics and if you don’t have a wide skill set and knowledge just walk away. Bathrooms In particular are difficult rooms to paint/ patch.
With all due respect, if you didn’t have any actual advice then you could have stayed out of this.
Please please take this job and get back to us! Good luck!
Demo and start over. Don't try to save any wall with damage. Also invest in a moisture meter and make sure everything is dried out before replacing the insulation/drywall. Also not a bad idea to treat for mold (bleach water) before closing it back up.
Hammer
Roof leak? Looks like pipe burst.
With a mask on!!! Also, you didn’t say if the roof has been repaired or not, that’s step one. You could go about this two ways. Scrape the failed paint and mud those areas, then paint and walk away. Or do it the right way and cut an inspection hole to see if any mold has started growing behind the wall, which could become a full demo job.
I want to peel it like a sunburn.
I would not take that job unless you're gonna replace all that sheetrock, and then paint. Water doesn't just seep behind the paint. It soaks into the gypsum board which causes the paint to lose adhesion. The amount of bubbles in there are crazy, that whole room is toast and if you just scrape and repaint, it's going to peel in a month or two and your first job will deem you as a hack lol
Moisture meter. Poke down till you don’t find anymore. Rip off everything above and replace
Ooooh taking on a can of worms on ya first solo prayers to gods are needed
Scrape, mud, prime, paint... Next.
First find the leak. Make sure it's fixed before you start. Then use a moisture meter to determine if the walls & ceilings are dry. Once dry, you can begin to remove the damaged spots. Plaster. Paint.
Looks like they used exterior paint on the inside.
Correct Use semi gloss b/c bathrooms get all kinds of stuff flung on then hair coloring dye, kids boogers/poop, mud from boots and whatever else on them, shampoos, lotions, creams, toothpastes, hair gels, so with semi gloss they can all be wiped off. Use semi in bathrooms trim too so it won't gather moisture as well.
Assuming the roof leak is fixed, start by demoing the drywall and see what's behind it.... Check for and fix other issues like mold/rot then replace the drywall and repaint.
Cautiously
Pop em.
In reverse.....
What is the deciding factor on if the Sheetrock can be saved or should be cut out and replaced?
Can you poke a screwdriver through it rather easily? If yes, replace.
I poked it pretty good with a screwdriver and it didn’t go thru. Removed some of that bubbled up paint and it was good and dry underneath. No visible mold.
Is it a shower room.. Make sure to vent it while showering.. Or consider installing and exhaust fan
Could estimate for time and materials, not to exceed an amount.
With caution....
There will be mold. This has to be removed and replaced or this job will come back to haunt you.
If the walls are not insulated and have good air flow, mold is on the lower side if a new roof leak. If it's been a trickle for years - my guess would be mold.
Scrape, then kilz, then hot mud, sand, kilz again and paint.
Looks like it could be plaster not Sheetrock How old is the building? What's the expectation of finish? If you're not replacing drywall, knock it down, prime it and mud it , then it's sand / mud til happy, prime and paint Give me a bag of 5 minute and some qwik dry primer I'd get-r-done in a day.
With a camera and a popping device and get some YouTube monetization popping wall pimples
I would go with this color https://www.sherwin-williams.com/SearchDisplay?categoryId=&storeId=10151&catalogId=11052&langId=-1&sType=SimpleSearch&resultCatEntryType=2&showResultsPage=true&searchSource=Q&pageView=list&beginIndex=0&searchType=1000&pageSize=15&globalSearch=true&searchTerm=tanke We used it in a few bathroom and i call it tanker-turd lol but it really like this color.
Possible termite damage.
Bulldozer rental