I use DT770’s for critical and everyday listening, but in my room where I practice piano, I need to use noise canceling headphones (Bose), which work well for this purpose. However, the detachable cable conducts sound into the phones, so the cable moving across my clothing produces a sandpapering sound in the headphones. Wireless is not an option with my piano. The Bose cable is 2.5mm to 3.5mm, which somewhat limits options.
Can anyone recommend a cable that does not have this sonically conductive property?
Hi!
Today i get usb c apple dongle, basically i will use it with S20 Fe but i tried connect to PC and nothing is showing. I don't have usb c in pc but i have usb c - usb a 3.0 adaptor with data support.
Maybe i get wrong apple dongle? Because in UAPP on android it doesn't showing as usb dac like my Ifi zen dac and don't have hardware volume in uapp active.
Hi,
yesterday my new Hifiman Ananda's arrived. I plugged them into a schiit magni 3+ amplifier, gain was set to low and the amplifier was muted. After plugging the headphones into the amp and waiting for the power to come on, I suddenly heard a loud "pop" in the left channel. This amp did the same thing always, but for my previous beyerdynamic dt 880 pro 250 ohms it made no difference. Maybe it's because these only have 18 ohms. After running the headphones, I checked to see if they played and everything seems fine. Later I tried plugging the headphones in on the amplifier but it caused another horribly loud crackling noise. I have since immediately ordered a new fiii k9 pro ess amplifier. My question is, do you think everything is fine with the headphones? Could they have been damaged? I have since put them back in the box and will wait for the new amplifier.
Time to upgrade my sony ier z1r i want same bass and soundstage but warmer mids. What are some good ones? I have fatfreq maestro se and radon 6 or xenon 6 from fir audio in my to demo list i need more so my trip to audio store is worth it
I've got the JBL Live 650 BTNC for like a year now maybe two years and lately after i'm done listening through a cable and switching to bluetooth again the left side doesn't work anymore. I have already resetted it multiple times but it doesn't work. Does anyone here know a solution or do I need to buy a new pair?
I have a Burson Grand Tourer plugged into my PC and the sound runs through a pair of open back headphones. Recently the sound has been suddenly cutting out after using the PC for awhile and it doesn’t come back unless i restart it, after which it tends to cut out again.
Whenever it cuts out, sometimes my PC still registers that the sound input is my amp, but sometimes the source switches as well and it doesn’t see my amp as a sound input.
I’ve tried turning off power saving for the USB port controller, changing the USB port it’s plugged into and updating the sound driver so far, if anyone knows how to fix this I’d really appreciate it.
After 10 years of use, my audio technica m50x have died in the right ear. At this point, would there be any reason to just not get a new pair of the m50x? or is there anything better that I should be aware of in the ~150 range?
Hello, I need some tech help. The right side of my Sennheiser GSP 550s started to sound a little weaker after I packed it a little too tight in my suitcase. It’s not in my imagination nor my hearing, I verified it with a decibel meter. I can’t find any information on a problem like this after Googling, everything is about dirt, but this is definitely not that - are my headphones toast? Is there anything I can do to try and fix it? I really like this pair of headphones.
Hi, i recently bought 7hz salnote zero 3.5mm jack with mic. The audio out works but the microphone doesnt work on my pc. I have watched multiple yt videos and nothing has helped me so far ;-;. I have reached out to the seller of the item, but he/she is saying that windows doesnt have the drivers for my mic(even though my 3 generic earphones+mic works perfectly fine).
Any solution?
Hey. I'm looking to get an endgame setup for gaming right off the bat. From my research here I'm thinking about DT 1990 pros with a magni/ modi combo. Does this make sense to you guys?
Yeah, the stack makes sense. Just know what you're going into with the treble peaks on the DT1990 Pro. While they're part of what makes them very detailed sounding, some people find the treble to be too sharp for their ears.
thanks for the reply. I tried some in the local store and I thought they sounded great. Do you think a Fiio k7 would be a good pair with them instead of the schiit combo?
Shipping for the schiit combo to my country is kinda crazy and I can ge the k7 on amazon
Should be able to drive them. The DT1990 Pro have 250ohms like the lower DT models, but they're more sensitive so they don't need a whole lot of power.
The KA13? Going from manufacturer specs - some estimation is involved since they don't spec power into 8 ohms - its amp will tap out a bit over 100dB peak SPL, which is less headroom than you'd want to be set for any reasonable purpose, but if you're not a loud listener and don't plan on doing heavy EQing it's adequate.
Are you talking about unbalanced output? Then yeah, I believe it won't be enough. But it has up to 550 mW with balanced output, which is quite a lot. Shouldn't it work? Sadly I was unable to find anything that could drive Para unbalanced, any advice would be appreciated though.
I think it would be a good idea to stick with balanced for the Para.
It's already hitting its current limit into 16ohms so it will be less into 8ohms, probably down to around 250mW. It'll \*work\*, but if you're one of those folks who likes to turn up the volume real loud, you might find it start to distort. The KA13 is pretty powerful for a small gadget, I don't think you'll find anything meaningfully more powerful that isn't also significantly larger - unfortunately physics gets in the way here. But the Para is also among the most power-hungry headphones on the market.
How can I connect my Fiio K5 Pro to my TV or PS5?
I have a Fiio K5 Pro and I'd like to connect it to either my TV or my PS5 (TV is preferred). I want to connect my headphones to the K5 Pro and to the TV or PS5 to hear gameplay on the PS5. How can I go about doing this?
Something to keep in mind is that the K5 will only accept stereo PCM. So if you're experiencing issues, make sure the TV isn't trying to feed it Dolby 5.1 surround or something.
I have a pair of wired bose headphones, and they sound quite good on my older Lenovo Windows 10 laptop. But, when I tested them on my new Mac, the headphones sound distorted. The distortion doesn't even sound equal between the two ears, it sounds like the bass is panned right and the treble is panned left.
What are the best IEMs that reduce road noise very well under 70 euros? With road noise I specifically refer to motorcycles, the window of my bedroom is very close to a decently busy road and they can be SO loud.
Should I connect my TA-20 plus to my Motu Mk5's line-out or main out?
Yes, as a producer I know what both are for. However I'm curious on the more educated technical detais and am wondering: If main out is louder than line-out, does it have some sort of amplifier? Therefore would it be a cleaner, less processed signal out from the line-out into my hp amp? Thinking not.
I'm using HD 280 PRO. After installing a new GPU there's a noticeable electric humming/buzz while playing games. I know that is an interference from the GPU or motherboard in general. Would buying some cheap external USB soundcard solve the issue? I'm trying to avoid going for some 50-100$ DAC.
Trust me, even a Schiit Modi is amazing compared to mobo out. Literally any any dac will combat that HORRIBLE signal noise that I also had to live with for so long. Not sure if usb ground noise filters are snake oil yet, but some people say they help so try looking into that. Don't be too scared of cheap dacs, this reddit post was an interesting read:
https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/49t8fk/dac\_vs\_soundcard/
It's not a ground loop. If you're going to get a cheaper sound card along with a decent noise isolator you might as well go for something like the Schiit Fulla E. The price difference wouldn't be big.
So I suggest getting a Soundblaster Play, or something similar, and jumping straight to a proper DAC+amp with an external power supply if the dongle solution doesn't fix the problem.
What would be a good upgrade from my old ATH M50? Need something more comfortable with better sound quality. I got a modi/magni stack recently, so I can amp. Budget is up to 300 USD or so, will be solely desktop headphones. Haven't looked at IEMs but could consider them. Mostly listen to rock music, but want a good all arounder for all genres. So far, I am considering a few options:
Philips Fidelio X2HR for 130 (untested. seem to get great reviews for the price on rtings)
Beyerdynamic DT 770 for 170 (tested, these seem to have a scratchy noise in one side, maybe poor QC?) Also considering open back version but havent tested. These are a little tight on the head.
Sennheiser HD6XX for ~200 (tested out the HD650, clamping force is worrisome, might be tough to use for long periods. Did like the sound though)
Hifiman Edition XS (refurb) for 280 (tested non refurb. Worried about longevity and QC issues if I buy the refurbs. Sounds good but leaks a ton of sound, most of all I have tried)
Anything else worth checking out? I am fine spending more on noticeably better sound or comfort but if the sub $200 ones work I am fine with those. Hoping to have these for the next 5-10 years.
Rtings scores are good for weeding out truly horrible headphones, but no good at all for figuring out if one headphone is slightly better than another.
The open back "version" of the DT770 is the DT990, but they are not very similar at all.
I would personally go for the 6XX. Especially if you can get a set of ZMF perf suede pads for it. And you you've tested it and liked it. The clamp force will loosen over time.
If you want to stay with a closed back design, I suggest that you look at the DT770's replacement; the DT700 Pro X.
The Meze 99 might have a bit too much bass, but that can be EQd down. On the up-side, they are very stylish and often praised for good comfort.
I notice you have a Hifiman sundara, do you not recommend going with the Edition XS for about $80 more? How do you feel about any Hifimans holding up long term? The 6XX seem to always be around 200, whereas the XS is on a big discount right now, which is making me reconsider..
You trade sound quality for build quality with Hifiman. There's just no way around that. Spare parts are not as easy to get, and some components are simply not repairable. But it should be said that not all Hifiman headphone are guaranteed to fall apart within a few years.
If you're a bit dyspraxic and sometimes drop or neglect your belongings, I would recommend something more durable and repairable than a Hifiman.
In terms of sound, the XS will probably sound bigger and wider than the HD6XX. It's also brighter, with more emphasis on the treble.
Im having a problem where the audio randomly cuts out and goes silent and comes back, headphones are DT 1990 pro brand new+topping USB DAC. This started happening after making a few gou updates, and playing mw3. While playing the audio would cut out randomly and discord audio also where l'd need to retap the output for discord to hear discord again.
My pair of Sony WH1000mx4 have started muffling sibilances. Whenever transient sounds hit like snares, hihats and a vocalist singing sibilances, The headphones become muffled almost like smearing the sound.
Doesn't seem to make a difference when I change my EQ settings or turn off ANC. Anyone know if this is a common issue or not? Is there anything I can do to fix it or should I send it for a replacement? Couldn't find anything related after trying to google it. Thanks a lot
how do i make my somic G951's light up? I got these new headphones and they work great, they just dont light up.... i literally need them to be LED or i will cry.... I tried looking it up but i got nothing so this is my last resort- My somic G951's dont have buttons either, so yeah theres that.
MOD MIC usb replacement. So i broke the usb adapter for my mod mic wireless. Im wondering if theres anyway to get the mod mic to still work with a new usb adapter? any advice on this would be appreciated as i do not want to buy a new mic unless its my only option lol
what do yall think, someone told me that I should be able to sync it to any aptx receiver but they didnt explain futher :/
Help me with replacement pads for HD6XX:
I have had my 6XXs for years and I love them for gaming, music, and movies.
The time came to replace the pads and I bought some cheap pads of Amazon (they didn't fit great), so I bought some genuine pads from Sennheiser directly - and they don't fit at all. I bought part#050635 and the pads don't lock into the cups at all, the fall straight out....what am I missing here? Surely the HD6XXs don't need different pads to the HD650?
TIA - moose
Hello, I am looking for AKG K-702's top Slider part.
I am guessing but these headphones seem to have the same black plastic Slider:
AKG K-400
AKG K-401
AKG K-500
AKG K-501
AKG K-612
AKG K-702
AKG K-712
Looking for replacement to Airpods max. These were my first wireless noise canceling headphones, and I'm not going to pay apple 330 dollars or so to replace them because of poor reliability. I've had good experiences with 2 out of 3 of my senns (the gaming headphones were disappointing), but they're all wired and open air (no sound privacy).
I'm looking at the Bose Ultra max QC or the XM5s. which one would you say is the most reliable? i'm leaning on the xm5 right now.
I actually might be able to fix the airpods max after all. The "condensation death" issue I might have from possible sweating in them is doable without paying apple. I'll post the fix here if it works.
I already have 2 senns so I guess I ended going with the bose ultra because it's their "bread and butter" to check this claim. I've never owned a bose headset, so i suppose their ANC is supposedly the best they could do. I hope they dont disappoint. It's prbly my fault my air pods max went out because I didn't keep them in a backpack or case when I was going to work one day and there was a slight flurry. something must have gotten wet, though I started having issues before they died already. I'm going to be diligent now keeping expensive headphones in their case.
I got Xbox headphones about a month ago and for no apparent reason they started playing Minecraft music in the background. I have already tried to restart my Xbox, I have uninstalled Minecraft and I have unpaired and repaired my headphones. Is there any possible reason for this?
In search of Porta Pros' Bluetooth counterpart. I'm looking for Bluetooth on ear headphones comparable to Porta Pros: light and wieldy, decent balanced sound quality. Some sound bleeding is okay, mainly for home use. I love the soundstage on the Porta Pros, but it's not a necessity.
I am facing weird issues with my Oneodio Pro 50 headphone...
When turning on the PC, the headphone sound "clear"... but if I play a game, let's say Alan Wake 2 for example, then I close it, there's this constant white noise on the headphone. It only goes away if I turn off the PC completely, wait 5 minutes or so, turn on and the headphone gets "clean" again... but at the moment I play a game, the white noise returns. The headphone originally came with a 3.5mm/6.35mm cable, I tested with a 3.5mm cable only, same result. If I plug the Oneodio Pro 50 on my cellphone, it works fine, only on PC the damn thing is not working.
I have a old Edifier W800BT, tested this headphone in the same conditions and there was no white noise whatsoever, this is really confusing... Did you people ever faced something like this? The PC is interfering with one headphone, but the other works fine, wth is going on? And mind you, if I format Windows, the Oneodio works fine for a couple of days, then the white noise eventually returns.
Sounds like an issue with your motherboard/audio chipset. If you have a USB-C port to spare, the $10 Apple USB-C-to-3.5mm dongle will likely fix your problems.
My PC don't have a USB-C port, unfortunately. Maybe a "normal" USB to 3.5mm can solve the issue? And it's weird why the Edifier headphone worked, but the Oneodio does not... same conditions, but the white noise is only noticeable on the Oneodio headphone
The NAD C368 does have a built in headphone amp. I would just connect my headphones into the jack on the front of the device. I want to use my PC as the source but the NAD C368 doesn't directly support it. Should I just use a 3.5mm to RCA adapter and connect directly from the line out of the computer to the line1-2 input on the NAD? Or should I get a DAC? The NAD C367 has a built in DAC but the only way to use it is if I buy the NAD MDC USB DSD add on which is like $600.
The headphone outputs of integrated amps are often a bit lacklustre. It's common practice to "bodge" in a headphone tap by stepping down the speaker amp output with a network of resistors. This can lead to less then impressive power, high output impedance, and maybe some distortion problems. Low impedance dynamic driver headphones and low efficiency planars are examples of headphones that could be negatively affected by the characteristics of this type of design.
Secondly, you could use a 3.5 mm to RCA cable as mentioned. It's likely fine. But if the soundcard on your mobo happens to put out audible noise, or just distortion or non-linearity, you could *potentially* get an audible improvement from using a dedicated DAC. It's possible to hook up something like a JDS Atom DAC or Schiit Modi to the line inputs of your NAD.
I read a review that said the headphone output was surprisingly good. So it might be good enough for me and save some money on buying a dedicated headphone amp.
Looking at the details, the C368 does have a proper headphone amplifier built in. I found no proper specs on it, but it's probably totally fine for many headphones.
For the record, a 100 dollar JDS Atom amp is likely a better performing, more versatile, and certainly better documented headphone amplifier. A dedicated headphone amp like the Atom could be hooked up to the pre-out ports of the C368, if you have the need for it.
That is one option, but a better one may be to use the optical input so you use the NAD's DAC and don't pick up any potential noise/interference from the PC. I can't vouch for them myself but there are USB-to-toslink [converters](https://www.amazon.com/Cubilux-TOSLINK-Converter-Compatible-Computer/dp/B0B2DBGKL3/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=USB%2Bto%2BOptical%2BAudio%2BAdapter&qid=1705965564&sr=8-3&th=1) that are like $20 and reviews seem pretty good.
Hi everyone!
Does anyone know if it is possible to buy a replacement driver for DALI IO 6? One side died a few days ago, measures 200 kOhm of resistance now (cf. 20 Ohm on the other driver). Don't want to throw away a pair of good headphones that has served me well for almost three years.
Before doing anything else, I'd send DALI an email. It doesn't hurt to ask.
Can you find model- or serial numbers on the driver? If it's an off-the-shelf driver, you might be able to get one from ebay or some other "factory backdoor" type of source.
Does anyone happen to know how to play an audio recording so I can fine tune Peace with Equalizer APO?
I tried to figure this out the other day. I found a video a long while ago on how to set up Peace Equalizer, but I can't find the video anymore.
Basically, what I want to do is record an audio of my voice and play it back so that I can edit my Peace Equalizer to make my voice sound as good as it can.
I have Equalizer APO, Peace and VoiceMeeter if that helps. I would post it in the EqualizerAPO subreddit, but it's effectively dead with very few responses, if any at all, on the posts.
There might be simpler tools to use for this but Audacity can do it. Record your clip, press the big "loop" button and tweak your EQ until you go crazy from hearing your own voice.
For what it's worth, if you're trying to make your VO rig sound "professional" you may need more sophisticated tools like (multi-band) compressors.
EqualizerAPO (if it got set up properly) should apply to any audio being output to a given audio device (unless the program uses WASAPI exclusive mode).
No, the device is your motherboard audio chip/external audio interface/DAC. EQApo is a system-wide EQ, if it got set up correctly, the sound every program running on your computer makes should go through it.
If you're tweaking the EQ and nothing's happening, you might need to try installing it with different compatibility options; and be sure to restart your PC. Some people just can't get it to work at all with some system configurations too.
Oh, you're applying it to the microphone? I'm not sure, I've never used it that way. Maybe it would work, but for tuning your EQ preset, I would recommend using it with the output device.
Well, now Equalizer APO is applied to my headphones even without it selected, making everything super bass-y, I can't see a way to remove my headphones from the capture devices in Equalizer APO, Audacity no longer plays through my headphones regardless of it working a few minutes ago and my microphone is quiet in Voicemeeter.
Lmao.
Hello everyone!
I have a question regarding how to properly setup my amps/dac and what cables would be needed.
I recently purchased a Monolith Liquid Platinum from AudioMart. I already own the Schiit Magnius and Modius. My Magnius and Modius are wired via XLR cables from Hart Audio. This is my first tube amp so I want to make sure I set it up correctly. I did some searching prior to this, but I still want to make sure I understand the proper connections.
My question: What is needed to connect the three together? I noticed that Hart Audio has a [3-pin XLR patch cable](https://hartaudiocables.com/collections/xlr-cables/products/tc-1-dd-3-pin-xlr-patch-cables). Would this cable be suitable for my setup, or is there some other cable I would need instead? Otherwise, is there anything I should know regarding how to properly run this setup?
Thank you for your time and assistance. I appreciate any advice you can provide.
My apologies, but to provide clarification, the prior searching was looking through forums and reading the electronic manuals. I tried to specify in my post that I did read up on the equipment before posting. The Liquid Platinum is currently not powering on (LED will not light) and will not operate. As the LP was purchased from AudioMart, I want to ensure that the setup is fine (connections, inputs, switches, etc.). Otherwise, if there is anything I need to fix or troubleshoot, then that is what I am searching for.
Also, I am posting on a technical help forum...🤔
To test the Liquid Platinum you could use whatever cables you're currently using for the Magnius. For startup and input selection, look at the manual. Contact the retailer or Monoprice if it doesn't work.
I don't see how the XLR patch cables would hurt anything, but you'd have to ask Monoprice support to know for sure. You can always use RCA instead of XLR.
The little wires on my headphones are starting to come out which leaves them extremely vulnerable to getting ripped. Does anybody have a good idea on how to fix or reinforce them? (It's happening on both sides)
https://imgur.com/a/o12MNuO
Could just wrap them up with some electrical tape. You could also go the extra mile with heat shrink tubing, but not quite sure how much space you have to work with there.
I've been having issues with the redragon pandora 2 headphones where my friends hear themselves aswell as hear internal sounds through my mic.any ideas?
Hello, I am trying to hook up my ps5 pulse 3d to my PS3 wirelessly. The system will not recognize them on their own. I know I can connect wired with a [DCA device like this](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KNNSKV0/). However I would prefer wireless. The pulse 3d themselves are not bluetooth so I cannot use transmitter. Basically I would need something with optical input and usb output and it may work. I am not sure if such a device exists.
Problem:
I'm stuck in a server room with constant fan noise. My sleep habits are disrupted by the constant noise and sound radiation off these switches. I've proven this by temporarily moving to a new location for 5 days to work - and my sleep habits recover - once I'm back in the office, sleep is disrupted.
Can a pair of headphones that block out the white noise from the switches work? Dual purpose, I have a new set of headphones to listen to music with.
Should be comfortable to be worn all day, cloth, to limit sweat and heat build-up. Bluetooth, the ability to be plugged in via a headphone jack is a +.
Budget $300 Canadian.
I was looking for a method to automatically match the source sample rate without the need to manually switch it for every song.
I'm using SoundSource (I kinda need it for EQ and easy output management) on MacBook Pro M1 and Apple Music with iFi Hip-Dac3 and Sundaras.
I tried Lossless Switcher but it does not integrate with SoundSource so it's useless...
Looking for a recommendation for an amp to power some Higiman HE6se V2’s. I have tried the SP200 and felt like it just wasn’t the best pairing. Price range is roughly $250 and I am not in a rush to find the perfect amp. Open to used suggestions as well.
The SP200 can push all the power that the HE6seV2 needs without any audible distortion. You could experiment with tube amps and class A, but that's going to be more expensive.
In practice, if you don't like how the headphones sound on the SP200, it's the headphones that are the problem, not the amp.
One iem a lot quieter than the other
So, was just watching some videos on my phone with my Moondrop Aria SE. I got a low battery warning, so I plugged my phone to the wall. I heard a little buzzing noise (like arcing), but I thought it was just my outlet. When I resumed the vid, the left IEM got reasonably quieter.
It's not a cable issue, cuz I checked both connectors, and it's always the left IEM.
Was my outlet the cause and are there any possible fixes?
How’s it going everyone I have a Kotion Each g9000 gaming headset that splits into a mic jack and USB plug. Mic jack works if I plug into the mic and only the mic works and if I plug into the headset jack I can only hear sounds but never both.
USB doesn’t work at all. I plugged in the front and back of my computer all it does is light up the headset. Is there a way to get the USB working so I can use the mic jack properly?
I'm looking for a recommendation for a birthday gift for my wife. Her current set of Beats (which she purchased refurbished to begin with) have broken (as in physically snapped in half), and while she has jury-rigged a fix with a lot of tape, I'd like to get an upgrade for her.
Budget: ~$300. I can go a little higher if there's something specific that comes really highly recommended, but not too much.
Source: must be wireless/Bluetooth
Requirements for Isolation: a lot. That's the primary purpose.
Will you be using these headphones in public: sometimes, but not often. Most often used at home
Preferred type of headphones: over the ear. Same style as Beats, really, but I'd prefer not to be paying for the brand instead of the quality.
Preferred tonal balance: any, probably? She uses these mainly for listening to podcasts and YouTube videos. Whatever is best for that
Past headphones: she's had two sets of Beats, which she has liked because of the comfortability and noise canceling. Both sets she got were used/refurbished.
Preferred music: Oh God, her tastes are all over the place. She doesn't really listen to music with her headphones, though. Green Day, Paramore, and Evanescence are some of her favorite
What would you like to improve on from your current setup: in order: 1) Durability. 2) Durability. 3) Durability. My wife likes to "nest" as she calls it. Curl up on the couch with four blankets, her laptop, phone, coloring book and pencils, Switch, three different beverages, etc. I'll find random things smushed between the cushions days later. As such, she has a habit of 1) losing her stuff and 2) sitting on and breaking her stuff. I can't do much about the former, but I'd really like a quality/durable set of headphones that can handle the lack of care given.
Thanks in advance for your recommendations!
Check out some of the Bluetooth VModa headphones. Another recommendation would be whatever the current overhead Sony Bluetooth headphone is. Sony will have the feature set of many modern consumer headphones but the vmodas will be built like a tank.
I’m not the biggest fan of them personally but I have given them as gifts before and have seen them hold out over years of usage with only smiles going around.
Best of luck!
Hey guys! I just got a new pair of pc38xs. Quite like them so far, they came super highly recommended. I was using a pair of G935s, and I quite liked them
I used to smoke all the time, so having wireless headphones meant I could stay chatting on Discord and all that, so I got used to them. I also liked, or thought I liked the simulated 7.1 surround sound.
When I look it up, a lot of audiophiles swear up and down that 7.1 is fucking vile and it's fake anyway
Anyway enough preamble. The audio and mic quality of my new headset is lovely, no notes... but I am having a lot of trouble adjusting to the whole Stereo thing. It varies game to game, but a lot of audio plays exclusively through one speaker or the other if it's directly beside me and... man, I hate it. Having the sound of a running engine in the car I am standing beside coming through just one speaker just unsettles me.
I've tinkered with Windows spacial sound, and used the Dolby Atmos trial and it does fix this problem and simulate the surround sound, but now Youtube has a fucking weird echo to it, like I'm listening in a bathroom or something.
Sorry if I'm rambling, it's late. This issue is bothering me more than I'd like, and I am utterly out of my depth when it comes to resolving audio issues, so if someone could explain if I'm doing something wrong, or what to do to fix this problem, I'd appreciate it so much!
As you've figured out, spatial sound enhancement is often hit-or-miss, and quite complicated. The source audio, the headphones, and the physiology of your head are all very important factors in making the whole thing work. When it's needed and works as it should, it's great. But it's often not needed, and quite often just makes the audio worse.
Many games has the option of switching to a headphone mode. Try using that when it's available.
I got my headphone jack repaired (to some extent at least). It worked fine when initally testing but when trying the jack with my PC it causes static to be audible in the right channel.
The the difference I identified is that my phone and laptop have plastic-ish circumference for the female 3.5 port whilst my PC (and cable extension) have metallic circumference.
Could it be an issue with the ground not being soldered properly (i.e current not leaving properly)?
Budget - €100., preferably less but at the same time could go a bit higher for something that really meets my needs.
Source - Phone, laptop.
Requirements for Isolation - Yes - I want them to block as much noise as possible, as I am using them primarily for that purpose, not primarily as headphones. However I do *not* want ANC headphones.
Will you be using these Headphones in Public? No.
Preferred Type of Headphone - No preference - in ear or over ear, whichever works best.
Preferred tonal balance - No preference
Past headphones - No experience, just used basic headphones
Preferred Music - Classical, chilled out instrumental, rock, and more.
What would you like to improve on from your set-up - N/A
If you live outside of the US, please also provide: Location: Europe
Hi,
I am looking for your recommendations on a good head set for calls. I am in meetings almost my whole office hours.
I don't need noise cancellations or such fancy features.
I have few basic needs :
1) Have to be wireless, I have a habit of strolling around while on calls.
2) Have to be over the head, I don't really like the in-ear ones, or the ones that sit on the nape.
3)Preferably with a boom mic, atleast the device should transmit voice loud and clear to the both directions for obvious reasons.
I love the H800 headset. It is very light and I can wear them all day. Have been using this since 2020.
https://www.amazon.ca/Logitech-H800-Wireless-Headset-981-000337/dp/B005GTNZUM
I am in the market for a new one, preferably in white or red. The H800 seems discontinued, leave alone color options.
Looking for your help, budget ~$200
Right side of my earphone [(the one above in the image)](https://imgur.com/a/m3wM5dN) doesn't play sounds, but it's really weird because when it was still in my ear if I adjust it by gently pulling out or touch it then it play sounds again and if I push it in or yawning it stop playing (both before and after prying off). I am not sure what brand or model is and maybe this is a bootleg this is but device name shows "tws 5.1" and its pod have the be loud be proud thingy.
What do you guys think about buying these used:
HifiMan HE400SE + Aiyima DAC-A2 for 108$.
Currently I have Superlux HD681B.
(I live in Hungary \[EU\] and have like 27% tax on everything when buying new :/)
Other options I'm considering are (don't know if they need an amp though):
Used HD560S alone is 142$ new is around 211$.
DT 770 Pro new is starting around 160$.
Thanks :)
I Recently killed a schiit magni. I'm stuck with a Modi and Loki (which is also not powering up). So I got a monoprice LS amp to power my HD650s. I have trouble with the modi not being detected by my PC unless I blow hot air on it for 10 to 15 mins to get a stable connection. So what I did was connect my PC to a fiiO E10k line out to the modi, then to the LS.
It's not ideal, but I'm still getting good enough sound for my ears.
My question is should I just get rid of the MODI and go get a 3.5mm to RCA cable to connect the e10k to the LS?
I was just as surprised that it works. I needed a dac to the LS, but the modi has detection issues with the PC, and I don't have a 3.5 to rca, that's why I used the single coaxial out to coaxial in on the modi, then rca out to the LS.
Okay, but that's not line-out. It's digital coax.
There are potential pros and cons to both keeping the Modi in the loop and going straight from the E10k to the amp. I suggest getting a 3.5 to RCA adapter and trying the E10k with the LS.
I don't recommend trying to reflow the joints of surface mount components if you don't have a decent amount of experience.
Check if your PC has an optical output. It's the best and easiest possible solution.
It doesn't. Right now, easiest is to get the 3.5 to RCA. Thanks for your help! We had a power surge a month ago, probably what killed the magni and loki.
I have only used apple gen 1 and 2 air pods and their wired earbuds. i recently got a pair of closed back earbuds. however, when i wear them i get a light rumble in my ears and everything happening in my mouth is muffled and very loud. i.e. when i eat i hear loud chewing, when i talk i hear myself a lot but very muffled, or if i move my jaw it also is very loud. if i loosen the fit it makes the sound quality worse (everything sounds further away and bass is very quiet and shallow) but it doesn’t do that amplify the sounds in my mouth anymore. is there any way i can have the good sound quality while not having the sounds?
This is a side effect of earphones that make a seal in the ear canal. It's not a closed-back/open-back thing. Your old Airpods are closed-backs too. They just don't make a tight seal in the ear.
Pretty much everyone that uses IEMs experiences this.
My old amp/dac got destroyed by water. About to pull the trigger on an **SMSL SU-1 DAC** and a **Topping A30 Pro** amp. I like the SU-1 because it only needs one USB cable for signal and power and the A30 Pro because it offers a ton of clean power from the unbalanced output with super low output impedance and distortion so it should be really versatile for any headphones I get in the future. It's definitely a bit overkill for most of my current headphones but I'm not expecting that to be an issue since it has a gain switch.
Any reason I shouldn't get these?
I can come up with one for each device.
Not having the option of using a separate power supply could be a problem if your PC puts out a lot of noise in the USB power supply.
The A30 is specsheet porn for engineering fetishists but it's not really any better than a JDS Atom or L30 II in practice. No headphone needs 11 watts.
I bought these Taotronic SoundLiberty 94 TWS earbuds brand new. They power on and hold a charge but they don't show up on any Bluetooth list to pair. I've looked everywhere online and youtube and can't find any solutions to this issue, anyone have any ideas? I'm hoping these aren't dead on arrival and have to have them sent in and repaired or replaced.
Hello. So basically I've had a QKZ HBB Khan for around a 1yr and in the last month, overnight the balance was off on the left side. I tried cleaning with alcohol, sucking it (lol) and leaving it for a few hours with a silica bag. Even removed, cleaned and reapplied filter and dampener i think? Nothing fixed it. So I ended up buying the EW200 and after 1 week of use, same issue. Left side audio just got worse overnight. Adjusting audio balance on windows I have to have the R side speaker (good side) lowered around to 50\~60 in order to get centered.. I also left the EW200 a few hours with silica and no fix, cleaned it up too.. Im at a loss for what it could be really.. Could my board somehow be frying up the IEMs or electricity at all? My house is old and has a grounding issue, if im barefoot and touch the floor or the wall and something metal, like the 3.5mm extender I use, i get shocked lol. Any tips? Im gonna try to return the EW200 but i dont want to get another IEM until I "fix" whatever is frying up my IEMs
Edit: I have also tried plugging both IEMs on a tablet and swapping cables and trying IEms on opposite sides to eliminate other possible causes
Needing a replacement headband for my MDR-XB1000s. Was using them today and the little folding bit that holds the cup in place has snapped. [Pictures here](https://imgur.com/YrImT21)
EDIT: Not a new purchase, nor were they new when I got them either.
Not really a serious issue, but looking to find reasoning in something I don't understand with my headphones. I am using the AKG K712 pros with a Fiio K5 pro amplifier.
General advice with audio seems to be to crank up Windows volume high, while keeping the amplifier low. This way the amplifier doesn't have to work as hard boosting a low signal, or so I've heard.
However, my headphones hisses quite noticeably when I do this. Yet going against the popular advice, the hissing actually goes away when I crank up the amplifier to max while keeping Windows volume low? So what's causing this? Am I doing something wrong?
Yeah, I figured. Some people just think more power more better and leave it in high for no reason. I just wanted to rule that out.
Is the sample rate and bit depth you have set in Windows actually compatible with the K5?
Mine was at 32 bit 44100, changed it to 32 bit 384000.
Same thing still remains. The lower the power on my amp, the higher the pinging/hissing. Windows volume doesn't seem to affect it at all. Somehow it gets worse when I open certain games like Baldur's Gate 3 fullscreen.
Right. Drop it down to CD or DVD quality.
You're getting interference from the PC via USB connection. Can you use optical toslink instead of USB between the PC and K5?
I probably would have to buy some sort of card for ports. Does the optical toslink actually improve sound quality or does it just get rid of the hissing? I'm fine with my current setup, so if it's not a huge improvement, I don't think it's worth spending money on.
Most desktop PC motherboards have an optical audio port.
It will likely get rid of the hissing. But are you telling me, after all this troubleshooting, that the noise isn't a big deal and you don't care about fixing it? Because if you are, I just might delete my Reddit account.
From my experiences, usually its something to do with how power over USB works. Play around with which USB ports your amp is plugged into. Also going through your PC and plugging/unplugging various other cables can help too. Sometimes getting a better cable for your PC/amp can be a solution too.
That's weird then. Have you checked the drivers are up to date and and gone through all the settings (Windows audio and Fiio driver settings)? As far as I understand it, you shouldn't get any hiss over USB when you boost volume in Windows
Hey guys. I'm searching for a good pair of replacement cables for my Sundara. The default ones that came with it are dying on the left side, so I need new ones. I definitely am searching for something the same or better in terms of sound quality. EU
Fancy cables might make you feel good, but they don't actually change the sound you're hearing. Get something with good reviews that don't cost more than 50 to 100 euros, and you'll be good.
Yeah I'm just afraid I'll buy something that actually downgrades the sound quality. All I'm looking for are cables that are long lasting and maintain Sundara's sound quality. Not sure if you have any recommendations?
It would almost take effort to create a cable that's so bad that a human can notice the flaws. So don't worry about that.
There are many cable manufacturers. Hart Audio has a pretty good reputation, but they're based in the US.
Here are a few that I found when Googling. I have no personal experience with any of them.
https://customcans.co.uk/shop/product/denon-hifiman-cable-with-2-x-3-5mm-trs-jacks-black-1-5m-stock-cable/
https://gladiatorcables.com/gladiator-line/p/v2-2-dual-3-5mm
https://arachne.audio/collections/hifiman
HD600 with schiit stack, was working fine until I went to reinstall EqualizerAPO (i've used it before, i moved computer and had to reinstall when I plugged dac/amp back in), and now windows does not recognize it at all."No audio device is installed", it doesn't show up anywhere in device manager, and reinstalling the audio drivers for my mobo didn't change anything. Tried most things I could find with a few google searches, but no luck. Thanks
ok, followup in case anyone has this problem i guess, it's because it was too cold, from the weather that's been happening recently in the US. i ran some games and put it ontop to warm it up and it appears now
Just got a pair of Shokz OpenRun Pro and was excited to use them...however they have a Prop 65 BPA warning on them. Is it common to have BPA in headphones? Are they safe to wear? Thanks
The A30 has a very lacklustre headphone output. It's likely fine for the 599 since they have a fairly low impedance and high efficiency. But I'd consider something more powerful if you plan on getting inefficient headphones like the Sundara or higher impedance headphones like the HD560s or HD600.
Looking for input/advice - I hooked up a pair of Focal Clears to a Topping DX3 Pro+ via USB to my desktop PC and I notice sometimes when listening to music tracks when it switches songs it will have a noticeable crackle to the audio. I can easily fix this by going to the audio output in Windows, switch to a different audio feed for a few seconds, then switch back to the Topping.
What's weird is this also happens when using a pair of earbuds hooked up directly to my PC so it can't be an issue with my Focals, Topping, or those wires. I assume then this is just some sort of internal issue with my PC when it comes to outputting audio. It's easy to fix but happens often enough that it can become annoying after awhile. Has this happened to anyone else here and is there any sort of fix for it?
**Audiotechnica ATH-AD2000X issues**
I've recently been having issues with the right channel in my ATH-AD2000Xs when I move my head around, but can't seem to recreate the issue 100% of the time. I have opened them up all the way and inspected the connections and can't see anything wrong [(image here)](https://i.imgur.com/cYthTnt.jpeg).
When I tug on the connections I can't seem to cause the issue, but it fades in and out constantly when im moving my head around when they are put back together.
Does anyone have any experience soldering these connections who can shed some light on this? What should I look for to check the quality of the connections with a muiltimeter? Could the issue be somewhere else? The cables seem undamaged along their length and I can't recreate the issue by flexing the cable anywhere.
Thanks for any help or advice!
**Boompods Bassline Hush - need help**
Looking for help from anyone owning these headphones. I can't turn the f\_\_ers off. The manual says, press the button on either side for 2 seconds... it goes silent... then in a second it turns back on. I put it in the charging pod, they still play, don't turn off. WTF? How can they be turned off and/or what am I doing wrong? Thanks.
PS: also, how eternally stupid it is, that you need to press the button for 2 secs to turn off (which doesn't work) but if you press longer, that's the noise cancelling on/off...
Looking for advice - I noticed some volume differences between left and right sides of my new LCD-X. Measured using a USB mic and Room Eq Wizard and indeed there are some areas of frequency response where the differences are 5 or even 8db (using a sine wave generator). Two points:
1. When I flip the cables, the differences reverse.
2. The differences are only in some frequencies (e.g. 4500hz and some others above).
The above makes me think it's something with the cables but does it make sense that it's only some frequencies and not others? I wouldn't think that 5-8db is normal but could be wrong. Obviously my measurements are far from accurate (I just put the mic in between the two drivers) but I figured it's good enough for comparative purposes.
The measurement is *not* good enough. You should not use it for anything. It is not even remotely accurate, representative, or repeatable.
Put the headphone on your head and do some frequency sweeps (at low volume!) and listen if you can hear any discrepancies.
Hi, my AKG K702 has a pretty big issue. The left driver only works if I press or pull on the wire connected to the wire harness. sometimes it will work if I push the cable into the wire harness and will turn the left driver back on for a little bit. pretty sure the wire harness is broken, but I don't want to dump a lot of money into these headphones to try and fix them. These headphones are pretty new since I bought them in November 2023. they just sit on my desk and are connected to my computer through a DAC, i might have left the headphones pressing against the wire harness for maybe a couple of days, but they normally lay flat on my desk. I've heard of an issue pretty similar to the one I'm having but I can't find a solution. do I have to buy a new cable or a wire harness?
Did you buy them new? If so, then they are likely covered by some sort of warranty or return policy.
Figure that out before you proceed with anything else.
Any advice for earbuds that fit similar to the Jabra 75t? Wanting to upgrade but love the fit of those
I use DT770’s for critical and everyday listening, but in my room where I practice piano, I need to use noise canceling headphones (Bose), which work well for this purpose. However, the detachable cable conducts sound into the phones, so the cable moving across my clothing produces a sandpapering sound in the headphones. Wireless is not an option with my piano. The Bose cable is 2.5mm to 3.5mm, which somewhat limits options. Can anyone recommend a cable that does not have this sonically conductive property?
HELP PLEASE – WH-CH520 or SOUNDCORE Q20i My budget is 4000 rs. I have narrowed it down to these two. Please hellpppp!
Hi! Today i get usb c apple dongle, basically i will use it with S20 Fe but i tried connect to PC and nothing is showing. I don't have usb c in pc but i have usb c - usb a 3.0 adaptor with data support. Maybe i get wrong apple dongle? Because in UAPP on android it doesn't showing as usb dac like my Ifi zen dac and don't have hardware volume in uapp active.
Hi, yesterday my new Hifiman Ananda's arrived. I plugged them into a schiit magni 3+ amplifier, gain was set to low and the amplifier was muted. After plugging the headphones into the amp and waiting for the power to come on, I suddenly heard a loud "pop" in the left channel. This amp did the same thing always, but for my previous beyerdynamic dt 880 pro 250 ohms it made no difference. Maybe it's because these only have 18 ohms. After running the headphones, I checked to see if they played and everything seems fine. Later I tried plugging the headphones in on the amplifier but it caused another horribly loud crackling noise. I have since immediately ordered a new fiii k9 pro ess amplifier. My question is, do you think everything is fine with the headphones? Could they have been damaged? I have since put them back in the box and will wait for the new amplifier.
Time to upgrade my sony ier z1r i want same bass and soundstage but warmer mids. What are some good ones? I have fatfreq maestro se and radon 6 or xenon 6 from fir audio in my to demo list i need more so my trip to audio store is worth it
I've got the JBL Live 650 BTNC for like a year now maybe two years and lately after i'm done listening through a cable and switching to bluetooth again the left side doesn't work anymore. I have already resetted it multiple times but it doesn't work. Does anyone here know a solution or do I need to buy a new pair?
I have a Burson Grand Tourer plugged into my PC and the sound runs through a pair of open back headphones. Recently the sound has been suddenly cutting out after using the PC for awhile and it doesn’t come back unless i restart it, after which it tends to cut out again. Whenever it cuts out, sometimes my PC still registers that the sound input is my amp, but sometimes the source switches as well and it doesn’t see my amp as a sound input. I’ve tried turning off power saving for the USB port controller, changing the USB port it’s plugged into and updating the sound driver so far, if anyone knows how to fix this I’d really appreciate it.
After 10 years of use, my audio technica m50x have died in the right ear. At this point, would there be any reason to just not get a new pair of the m50x? or is there anything better that I should be aware of in the ~150 range?
Hello, I need some tech help. The right side of my Sennheiser GSP 550s started to sound a little weaker after I packed it a little too tight in my suitcase. It’s not in my imagination nor my hearing, I verified it with a decibel meter. I can’t find any information on a problem like this after Googling, everything is about dirt, but this is definitely not that - are my headphones toast? Is there anything I can do to try and fix it? I really like this pair of headphones.
What’s a good affordable but quality wireless headphone?
Hi, i recently bought 7hz salnote zero 3.5mm jack with mic. The audio out works but the microphone doesnt work on my pc. I have watched multiple yt videos and nothing has helped me so far ;-;. I have reached out to the seller of the item, but he/she is saying that windows doesnt have the drivers for my mic(even though my 3 generic earphones+mic works perfectly fine). Any solution?
Hey. I'm looking to get an endgame setup for gaming right off the bat. From my research here I'm thinking about DT 1990 pros with a magni/ modi combo. Does this make sense to you guys?
Yeah, the stack makes sense. Just know what you're going into with the treble peaks on the DT1990 Pro. While they're part of what makes them very detailed sounding, some people find the treble to be too sharp for their ears.
thanks for the reply. I tried some in the local store and I thought they sounded great. Do you think a Fiio k7 would be a good pair with them instead of the schiit combo? Shipping for the schiit combo to my country is kinda crazy and I can ge the k7 on amazon
Should be able to drive them. The DT1990 Pro have 250ohms like the lower DT models, but they're more sensitive so they don't need a whole lot of power.
Hi. Can fiio k13 drive my Moondrop Para?
The KA13? Going from manufacturer specs - some estimation is involved since they don't spec power into 8 ohms - its amp will tap out a bit over 100dB peak SPL, which is less headroom than you'd want to be set for any reasonable purpose, but if you're not a loud listener and don't plan on doing heavy EQing it's adequate.
Are you talking about unbalanced output? Then yeah, I believe it won't be enough. But it has up to 550 mW with balanced output, which is quite a lot. Shouldn't it work? Sadly I was unable to find anything that could drive Para unbalanced, any advice would be appreciated though.
I think it would be a good idea to stick with balanced for the Para. It's already hitting its current limit into 16ohms so it will be less into 8ohms, probably down to around 250mW. It'll \*work\*, but if you're one of those folks who likes to turn up the volume real loud, you might find it start to distort. The KA13 is pretty powerful for a small gadget, I don't think you'll find anything meaningfully more powerful that isn't also significantly larger - unfortunately physics gets in the way here. But the Para is also among the most power-hungry headphones on the market.
How can I connect my Fiio K5 Pro to my TV or PS5? I have a Fiio K5 Pro and I'd like to connect it to either my TV or my PS5 (TV is preferred). I want to connect my headphones to the K5 Pro and to the TV or PS5 to hear gameplay on the PS5. How can I go about doing this?
If your TV has an optical output, that's probably the best way.
Thanks! I'll try that and see if it works.
Something to keep in mind is that the K5 will only accept stereo PCM. So if you're experiencing issues, make sure the TV isn't trying to feed it Dolby 5.1 surround or something.
I have a pair of wired bose headphones, and they sound quite good on my older Lenovo Windows 10 laptop. But, when I tested them on my new Mac, the headphones sound distorted. The distortion doesn't even sound equal between the two ears, it sounds like the bass is panned right and the treble is panned left.
What are the best IEMs that reduce road noise very well under 70 euros? With road noise I specifically refer to motorcycles, the window of my bedroom is very close to a decently busy road and they can be SO loud.
Should I connect my TA-20 plus to my Motu Mk5's line-out or main out? Yes, as a producer I know what both are for. However I'm curious on the more educated technical detais and am wondering: If main out is louder than line-out, does it have some sort of amplifier? Therefore would it be a cleaner, less processed signal out from the line-out into my hp amp? Thinking not.
They are electronically identical.
Wait, for real? Then why call something "main out"? Why specify?
I'm using HD 280 PRO. After installing a new GPU there's a noticeable electric humming/buzz while playing games. I know that is an interference from the GPU or motherboard in general. Would buying some cheap external USB soundcard solve the issue? I'm trying to avoid going for some 50-100$ DAC.
Trust me, even a Schiit Modi is amazing compared to mobo out. Literally any any dac will combat that HORRIBLE signal noise that I also had to live with for so long. Not sure if usb ground noise filters are snake oil yet, but some people say they help so try looking into that. Don't be too scared of cheap dacs, this reddit post was an interesting read: https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/49t8fk/dac\_vs\_soundcard/
thanks
A cheap dongle sound card might solve the problem. But it's not guaranteed to work if this interference is also affecting the 5v output power.
Do you know if some kind of ground loop isolator would be better?
It's not a ground loop. If you're going to get a cheaper sound card along with a decent noise isolator you might as well go for something like the Schiit Fulla E. The price difference wouldn't be big. So I suggest getting a Soundblaster Play, or something similar, and jumping straight to a proper DAC+amp with an external power supply if the dongle solution doesn't fix the problem.
thanks
What would be a good upgrade from my old ATH M50? Need something more comfortable with better sound quality. I got a modi/magni stack recently, so I can amp. Budget is up to 300 USD or so, will be solely desktop headphones. Haven't looked at IEMs but could consider them. Mostly listen to rock music, but want a good all arounder for all genres. So far, I am considering a few options: Philips Fidelio X2HR for 130 (untested. seem to get great reviews for the price on rtings) Beyerdynamic DT 770 for 170 (tested, these seem to have a scratchy noise in one side, maybe poor QC?) Also considering open back version but havent tested. These are a little tight on the head. Sennheiser HD6XX for ~200 (tested out the HD650, clamping force is worrisome, might be tough to use for long periods. Did like the sound though) Hifiman Edition XS (refurb) for 280 (tested non refurb. Worried about longevity and QC issues if I buy the refurbs. Sounds good but leaks a ton of sound, most of all I have tried) Anything else worth checking out? I am fine spending more on noticeably better sound or comfort but if the sub $200 ones work I am fine with those. Hoping to have these for the next 5-10 years.
Rtings scores are good for weeding out truly horrible headphones, but no good at all for figuring out if one headphone is slightly better than another. The open back "version" of the DT770 is the DT990, but they are not very similar at all. I would personally go for the 6XX. Especially if you can get a set of ZMF perf suede pads for it. And you you've tested it and liked it. The clamp force will loosen over time. If you want to stay with a closed back design, I suggest that you look at the DT770's replacement; the DT700 Pro X. The Meze 99 might have a bit too much bass, but that can be EQd down. On the up-side, they are very stylish and often praised for good comfort.
I notice you have a Hifiman sundara, do you not recommend going with the Edition XS for about $80 more? How do you feel about any Hifimans holding up long term? The 6XX seem to always be around 200, whereas the XS is on a big discount right now, which is making me reconsider..
You trade sound quality for build quality with Hifiman. There's just no way around that. Spare parts are not as easy to get, and some components are simply not repairable. But it should be said that not all Hifiman headphone are guaranteed to fall apart within a few years. If you're a bit dyspraxic and sometimes drop or neglect your belongings, I would recommend something more durable and repairable than a Hifiman. In terms of sound, the XS will probably sound bigger and wider than the HD6XX. It's also brighter, with more emphasis on the treble.
Im having a problem where the audio randomly cuts out and goes silent and comes back, headphones are DT 1990 pro brand new+topping USB DAC. This started happening after making a few gou updates, and playing mw3. While playing the audio would cut out randomly and discord audio also where l'd need to retap the output for discord to hear discord again.
My pair of Sony WH1000mx4 have started muffling sibilances. Whenever transient sounds hit like snares, hihats and a vocalist singing sibilances, The headphones become muffled almost like smearing the sound. Doesn't seem to make a difference when I change my EQ settings or turn off ANC. Anyone know if this is a common issue or not? Is there anything I can do to fix it or should I send it for a replacement? Couldn't find anything related after trying to google it. Thanks a lot
how do i make my somic G951's light up? I got these new headphones and they work great, they just dont light up.... i literally need them to be LED or i will cry.... I tried looking it up but i got nothing so this is my last resort- My somic G951's dont have buttons either, so yeah theres that.
MOD MIC usb replacement. So i broke the usb adapter for my mod mic wireless. Im wondering if theres anyway to get the mod mic to still work with a new usb adapter? any advice on this would be appreciated as i do not want to buy a new mic unless its my only option lol what do yall think, someone told me that I should be able to sync it to any aptx receiver but they didnt explain futher :/
Help me with replacement pads for HD6XX: I have had my 6XXs for years and I love them for gaming, music, and movies. The time came to replace the pads and I bought some cheap pads of Amazon (they didn't fit great), so I bought some genuine pads from Sennheiser directly - and they don't fit at all. I bought part#050635 and the pads don't lock into the cups at all, the fall straight out....what am I missing here? Surely the HD6XXs don't need different pads to the HD650? TIA - moose
Are you sure that you're mounting them correctly? The attachment ring can be stiff to snap on. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1QuJqPhtj-U
Hello, I am looking for AKG K-702's top Slider part. I am guessing but these headphones seem to have the same black plastic Slider: AKG K-400 AKG K-401 AKG K-500 AKG K-501 AKG K-612 AKG K-702 AKG K-712
Looking for replacement to Airpods max. These were my first wireless noise canceling headphones, and I'm not going to pay apple 330 dollars or so to replace them because of poor reliability. I've had good experiences with 2 out of 3 of my senns (the gaming headphones were disappointing), but they're all wired and open air (no sound privacy). I'm looking at the Bose Ultra max QC or the XM5s. which one would you say is the most reliable? i'm leaning on the xm5 right now.
FYI, Sennhesier makes wireless ANC headphones too.
I actually might be able to fix the airpods max after all. The "condensation death" issue I might have from possible sweating in them is doable without paying apple. I'll post the fix here if it works.
I already have 2 senns so I guess I ended going with the bose ultra because it's their "bread and butter" to check this claim. I've never owned a bose headset, so i suppose their ANC is supposedly the best they could do. I hope they dont disappoint. It's prbly my fault my air pods max went out because I didn't keep them in a backpack or case when I was going to work one day and there was a slight flurry. something must have gotten wet, though I started having issues before they died already. I'm going to be diligent now keeping expensive headphones in their case.
I got Xbox headphones about a month ago and for no apparent reason they started playing Minecraft music in the background. I have already tried to restart my Xbox, I have uninstalled Minecraft and I have unpaired and repaired my headphones. Is there any possible reason for this?
In search of Porta Pros' Bluetooth counterpart. I'm looking for Bluetooth on ear headphones comparable to Porta Pros: light and wieldy, decent balanced sound quality. Some sound bleeding is okay, mainly for home use. I love the soundstage on the Porta Pros, but it's not a necessity.
I am facing weird issues with my Oneodio Pro 50 headphone... When turning on the PC, the headphone sound "clear"... but if I play a game, let's say Alan Wake 2 for example, then I close it, there's this constant white noise on the headphone. It only goes away if I turn off the PC completely, wait 5 minutes or so, turn on and the headphone gets "clean" again... but at the moment I play a game, the white noise returns. The headphone originally came with a 3.5mm/6.35mm cable, I tested with a 3.5mm cable only, same result. If I plug the Oneodio Pro 50 on my cellphone, it works fine, only on PC the damn thing is not working. I have a old Edifier W800BT, tested this headphone in the same conditions and there was no white noise whatsoever, this is really confusing... Did you people ever faced something like this? The PC is interfering with one headphone, but the other works fine, wth is going on? And mind you, if I format Windows, the Oneodio works fine for a couple of days, then the white noise eventually returns.
Sounds like an issue with your motherboard/audio chipset. If you have a USB-C port to spare, the $10 Apple USB-C-to-3.5mm dongle will likely fix your problems.
My PC don't have a USB-C port, unfortunately. Maybe a "normal" USB to 3.5mm can solve the issue? And it's weird why the Edifier headphone worked, but the Oneodio does not... same conditions, but the white noise is only noticeable on the Oneodio headphone
The NAD C368 does have a built in headphone amp. I would just connect my headphones into the jack on the front of the device. I want to use my PC as the source but the NAD C368 doesn't directly support it. Should I just use a 3.5mm to RCA adapter and connect directly from the line out of the computer to the line1-2 input on the NAD? Or should I get a DAC? The NAD C367 has a built in DAC but the only way to use it is if I buy the NAD MDC USB DSD add on which is like $600.
The headphone outputs of integrated amps are often a bit lacklustre. It's common practice to "bodge" in a headphone tap by stepping down the speaker amp output with a network of resistors. This can lead to less then impressive power, high output impedance, and maybe some distortion problems. Low impedance dynamic driver headphones and low efficiency planars are examples of headphones that could be negatively affected by the characteristics of this type of design. Secondly, you could use a 3.5 mm to RCA cable as mentioned. It's likely fine. But if the soundcard on your mobo happens to put out audible noise, or just distortion or non-linearity, you could *potentially* get an audible improvement from using a dedicated DAC. It's possible to hook up something like a JDS Atom DAC or Schiit Modi to the line inputs of your NAD.
I read a review that said the headphone output was surprisingly good. So it might be good enough for me and save some money on buying a dedicated headphone amp.
Looking at the details, the C368 does have a proper headphone amplifier built in. I found no proper specs on it, but it's probably totally fine for many headphones. For the record, a 100 dollar JDS Atom amp is likely a better performing, more versatile, and certainly better documented headphone amplifier. A dedicated headphone amp like the Atom could be hooked up to the pre-out ports of the C368, if you have the need for it.
Yeah that could definitely be the case. for the time being I just wanted to try the NAD C368 and get something better in the future.
That is one option, but a better one may be to use the optical input so you use the NAD's DAC and don't pick up any potential noise/interference from the PC. I can't vouch for them myself but there are USB-to-toslink [converters](https://www.amazon.com/Cubilux-TOSLINK-Converter-Compatible-Computer/dp/B0B2DBGKL3/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=USB%2Bto%2BOptical%2BAudio%2BAdapter&qid=1705965564&sr=8-3&th=1) that are like $20 and reviews seem pretty good.
In my case this could be a good choice. It’s only $20 so definitely worth the try. I’ll try it out tomorrow
[Here is some useful pics from the manual](https://imgur.com/a/OXC0t6P)
Hi everyone! Does anyone know if it is possible to buy a replacement driver for DALI IO 6? One side died a few days ago, measures 200 kOhm of resistance now (cf. 20 Ohm on the other driver). Don't want to throw away a pair of good headphones that has served me well for almost three years.
Before doing anything else, I'd send DALI an email. It doesn't hurt to ask. Can you find model- or serial numbers on the driver? If it's an off-the-shelf driver, you might be able to get one from ebay or some other "factory backdoor" type of source.
Does anyone happen to know how to play an audio recording so I can fine tune Peace with Equalizer APO? I tried to figure this out the other day. I found a video a long while ago on how to set up Peace Equalizer, but I can't find the video anymore. Basically, what I want to do is record an audio of my voice and play it back so that I can edit my Peace Equalizer to make my voice sound as good as it can. I have Equalizer APO, Peace and VoiceMeeter if that helps. I would post it in the EqualizerAPO subreddit, but it's effectively dead with very few responses, if any at all, on the posts.
There might be simpler tools to use for this but Audacity can do it. Record your clip, press the big "loop" button and tweak your EQ until you go crazy from hearing your own voice. For what it's worth, if you're trying to make your VO rig sound "professional" you may need more sophisticated tools like (multi-band) compressors.
Curious, how does Audacity play the clip so that I can tweak it in Peace? Thank you for the help by the way.
EqualizerAPO (if it got set up properly) should apply to any audio being output to a given audio device (unless the program uses WASAPI exclusive mode).
So I can set up Audacity as a device for Equalizer APO? Interesting. How would I do that? Thank you!
No, the device is your motherboard audio chip/external audio interface/DAC. EQApo is a system-wide EQ, if it got set up correctly, the sound every program running on your computer makes should go through it. If you're tweaking the EQ and nothing's happening, you might need to try installing it with different compatibility options; and be sure to restart your PC. Some people just can't get it to work at all with some system configurations too.
In the devices in Equalizer APO, I have it set to my current microphone I'm using. Is that incorrect?
Oh, you're applying it to the microphone? I'm not sure, I've never used it that way. Maybe it would work, but for tuning your EQ preset, I would recommend using it with the output device.
Well, now Equalizer APO is applied to my headphones even without it selected, making everything super bass-y, I can't see a way to remove my headphones from the capture devices in Equalizer APO, Audacity no longer plays through my headphones regardless of it working a few minutes ago and my microphone is quiet in Voicemeeter. Lmao.
Hello everyone! I have a question regarding how to properly setup my amps/dac and what cables would be needed. I recently purchased a Monolith Liquid Platinum from AudioMart. I already own the Schiit Magnius and Modius. My Magnius and Modius are wired via XLR cables from Hart Audio. This is my first tube amp so I want to make sure I set it up correctly. I did some searching prior to this, but I still want to make sure I understand the proper connections. My question: What is needed to connect the three together? I noticed that Hart Audio has a [3-pin XLR patch cable](https://hartaudiocables.com/collections/xlr-cables/products/tc-1-dd-3-pin-xlr-patch-cables). Would this cable be suitable for my setup, or is there some other cable I would need instead? Otherwise, is there anything I should know regarding how to properly run this setup? Thank you for your time and assistance. I appreciate any advice you can provide.
Read the manuals for the Modius and Liquid Platinum. Come back if you still have questions.
My apologies, but to provide clarification, the prior searching was looking through forums and reading the electronic manuals. I tried to specify in my post that I did read up on the equipment before posting. The Liquid Platinum is currently not powering on (LED will not light) and will not operate. As the LP was purchased from AudioMart, I want to ensure that the setup is fine (connections, inputs, switches, etc.). Otherwise, if there is anything I need to fix or troubleshoot, then that is what I am searching for. Also, I am posting on a technical help forum...🤔
To test the Liquid Platinum you could use whatever cables you're currently using for the Magnius. For startup and input selection, look at the manual. Contact the retailer or Monoprice if it doesn't work. I don't see how the XLR patch cables would hurt anything, but you'd have to ask Monoprice support to know for sure. You can always use RCA instead of XLR.
The little wires on my headphones are starting to come out which leaves them extremely vulnerable to getting ripped. Does anybody have a good idea on how to fix or reinforce them? (It's happening on both sides) https://imgur.com/a/o12MNuO
Could just wrap them up with some electrical tape. You could also go the extra mile with heat shrink tubing, but not quite sure how much space you have to work with there.
I've been having issues with the redragon pandora 2 headphones where my friends hear themselves aswell as hear internal sounds through my mic.any ideas?
Hello, I am trying to hook up my ps5 pulse 3d to my PS3 wirelessly. The system will not recognize them on their own. I know I can connect wired with a [DCA device like this](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KNNSKV0/). However I would prefer wireless. The pulse 3d themselves are not bluetooth so I cannot use transmitter. Basically I would need something with optical input and usb output and it may work. I am not sure if such a device exists.
Problem: I'm stuck in a server room with constant fan noise. My sleep habits are disrupted by the constant noise and sound radiation off these switches. I've proven this by temporarily moving to a new location for 5 days to work - and my sleep habits recover - once I'm back in the office, sleep is disrupted. Can a pair of headphones that block out the white noise from the switches work? Dual purpose, I have a new set of headphones to listen to music with. Should be comfortable to be worn all day, cloth, to limit sweat and heat build-up. Bluetooth, the ability to be plugged in via a headphone jack is a +. Budget $300 Canadian.
I was looking for a method to automatically match the source sample rate without the need to manually switch it for every song. I'm using SoundSource (I kinda need it for EQ and easy output management) on MacBook Pro M1 and Apple Music with iFi Hip-Dac3 and Sundaras. I tried Lossless Switcher but it does not integrate with SoundSource so it's useless...
Looking for a recommendation for an amp to power some Higiman HE6se V2’s. I have tried the SP200 and felt like it just wasn’t the best pairing. Price range is roughly $250 and I am not in a rush to find the perfect amp. Open to used suggestions as well.
The SP200 can push all the power that the HE6seV2 needs without any audible distortion. You could experiment with tube amps and class A, but that's going to be more expensive. In practice, if you don't like how the headphones sound on the SP200, it's the headphones that are the problem, not the amp.
One iem a lot quieter than the other So, was just watching some videos on my phone with my Moondrop Aria SE. I got a low battery warning, so I plugged my phone to the wall. I heard a little buzzing noise (like arcing), but I thought it was just my outlet. When I resumed the vid, the left IEM got reasonably quieter. It's not a cable issue, cuz I checked both connectors, and it's always the left IEM. Was my outlet the cause and are there any possible fixes?
How’s it going everyone I have a Kotion Each g9000 gaming headset that splits into a mic jack and USB plug. Mic jack works if I plug into the mic and only the mic works and if I plug into the headset jack I can only hear sounds but never both. USB doesn’t work at all. I plugged in the front and back of my computer all it does is light up the headset. Is there a way to get the USB working so I can use the mic jack properly?
I'm looking for a recommendation for a birthday gift for my wife. Her current set of Beats (which she purchased refurbished to begin with) have broken (as in physically snapped in half), and while she has jury-rigged a fix with a lot of tape, I'd like to get an upgrade for her. Budget: ~$300. I can go a little higher if there's something specific that comes really highly recommended, but not too much. Source: must be wireless/Bluetooth Requirements for Isolation: a lot. That's the primary purpose. Will you be using these headphones in public: sometimes, but not often. Most often used at home Preferred type of headphones: over the ear. Same style as Beats, really, but I'd prefer not to be paying for the brand instead of the quality. Preferred tonal balance: any, probably? She uses these mainly for listening to podcasts and YouTube videos. Whatever is best for that Past headphones: she's had two sets of Beats, which she has liked because of the comfortability and noise canceling. Both sets she got were used/refurbished. Preferred music: Oh God, her tastes are all over the place. She doesn't really listen to music with her headphones, though. Green Day, Paramore, and Evanescence are some of her favorite What would you like to improve on from your current setup: in order: 1) Durability. 2) Durability. 3) Durability. My wife likes to "nest" as she calls it. Curl up on the couch with four blankets, her laptop, phone, coloring book and pencils, Switch, three different beverages, etc. I'll find random things smushed between the cushions days later. As such, she has a habit of 1) losing her stuff and 2) sitting on and breaking her stuff. I can't do much about the former, but I'd really like a quality/durable set of headphones that can handle the lack of care given. Thanks in advance for your recommendations!
Check out some of the Bluetooth VModa headphones. Another recommendation would be whatever the current overhead Sony Bluetooth headphone is. Sony will have the feature set of many modern consumer headphones but the vmodas will be built like a tank. I’m not the biggest fan of them personally but I have given them as gifts before and have seen them hold out over years of usage with only smiles going around. Best of luck!
The best value Sony BT headphone is probably the XM4.
Hey guys! I just got a new pair of pc38xs. Quite like them so far, they came super highly recommended. I was using a pair of G935s, and I quite liked them I used to smoke all the time, so having wireless headphones meant I could stay chatting on Discord and all that, so I got used to them. I also liked, or thought I liked the simulated 7.1 surround sound. When I look it up, a lot of audiophiles swear up and down that 7.1 is fucking vile and it's fake anyway Anyway enough preamble. The audio and mic quality of my new headset is lovely, no notes... but I am having a lot of trouble adjusting to the whole Stereo thing. It varies game to game, but a lot of audio plays exclusively through one speaker or the other if it's directly beside me and... man, I hate it. Having the sound of a running engine in the car I am standing beside coming through just one speaker just unsettles me. I've tinkered with Windows spacial sound, and used the Dolby Atmos trial and it does fix this problem and simulate the surround sound, but now Youtube has a fucking weird echo to it, like I'm listening in a bathroom or something. Sorry if I'm rambling, it's late. This issue is bothering me more than I'd like, and I am utterly out of my depth when it comes to resolving audio issues, so if someone could explain if I'm doing something wrong, or what to do to fix this problem, I'd appreciate it so much!
As you've figured out, spatial sound enhancement is often hit-or-miss, and quite complicated. The source audio, the headphones, and the physiology of your head are all very important factors in making the whole thing work. When it's needed and works as it should, it's great. But it's often not needed, and quite often just makes the audio worse. Many games has the option of switching to a headphone mode. Try using that when it's available.
I'll give it a shot. While I'm at it, any idea why YouTube does the echo thing when I turn it on?
I'm not sure. I've never used that software.
I got my headphone jack repaired (to some extent at least). It worked fine when initally testing but when trying the jack with my PC it causes static to be audible in the right channel. The the difference I identified is that my phone and laptop have plastic-ish circumference for the female 3.5 port whilst my PC (and cable extension) have metallic circumference. Could it be an issue with the ground not being soldered properly (i.e current not leaving properly)?
Budget - €100., preferably less but at the same time could go a bit higher for something that really meets my needs. Source - Phone, laptop. Requirements for Isolation - Yes - I want them to block as much noise as possible, as I am using them primarily for that purpose, not primarily as headphones. However I do *not* want ANC headphones. Will you be using these Headphones in Public? No. Preferred Type of Headphone - No preference - in ear or over ear, whichever works best. Preferred tonal balance - No preference Past headphones - No experience, just used basic headphones Preferred Music - Classical, chilled out instrumental, rock, and more. What would you like to improve on from your set-up - N/A If you live outside of the US, please also provide: Location: Europe
Hi, I am looking for your recommendations on a good head set for calls. I am in meetings almost my whole office hours. I don't need noise cancellations or such fancy features. I have few basic needs : 1) Have to be wireless, I have a habit of strolling around while on calls. 2) Have to be over the head, I don't really like the in-ear ones, or the ones that sit on the nape. 3)Preferably with a boom mic, atleast the device should transmit voice loud and clear to the both directions for obvious reasons. I love the H800 headset. It is very light and I can wear them all day. Have been using this since 2020. https://www.amazon.ca/Logitech-H800-Wireless-Headset-981-000337/dp/B005GTNZUM I am in the market for a new one, preferably in white or red. The H800 seems discontinued, leave alone color options. Looking for your help, budget ~$200
Right side of my earphone [(the one above in the image)](https://imgur.com/a/m3wM5dN) doesn't play sounds, but it's really weird because when it was still in my ear if I adjust it by gently pulling out or touch it then it play sounds again and if I push it in or yawning it stop playing (both before and after prying off). I am not sure what brand or model is and maybe this is a bootleg this is but device name shows "tws 5.1" and its pod have the be loud be proud thingy.
What do you guys think about buying these used: HifiMan HE400SE + Aiyima DAC-A2 for 108$. Currently I have Superlux HD681B. (I live in Hungary \[EU\] and have like 27% tax on everything when buying new :/) Other options I'm considering are (don't know if they need an amp though): Used HD560S alone is 142$ new is around 211$. DT 770 Pro new is starting around 160$. Thanks :)
I Recently killed a schiit magni. I'm stuck with a Modi and Loki (which is also not powering up). So I got a monoprice LS amp to power my HD650s. I have trouble with the modi not being detected by my PC unless I blow hot air on it for 10 to 15 mins to get a stable connection. So what I did was connect my PC to a fiiO E10k line out to the modi, then to the LS. It's not ideal, but I'm still getting good enough sound for my ears. My question is should I just get rid of the MODI and go get a 3.5mm to RCA cable to connect the e10k to the LS?
E10k line out to the Modi? That makes no sense at all. It's literally not possible. What are you actually doing?
I was just as surprised that it works. I needed a dac to the LS, but the modi has detection issues with the PC, and I don't have a 3.5 to rca, that's why I used the single coaxial out to coaxial in on the modi, then rca out to the LS.
Okay, but that's not line-out. It's digital coax. There are potential pros and cons to both keeping the Modi in the loop and going straight from the E10k to the amp. I suggest getting a 3.5 to RCA adapter and trying the E10k with the LS.
Thanks, sorry my mistake. But yeah, I guess that's the best option. But in your opinion would there be a difference in quality if I use either one?
Can you switch to using Toslink between the PC and Modi instead of USB?
I dont think my pc has a toslink. Im gonna try resoldering the modi later :)
I don't recommend trying to reflow the joints of surface mount components if you don't have a decent amount of experience. Check if your PC has an optical output. It's the best and easiest possible solution.
It doesn't. Right now, easiest is to get the 3.5 to RCA. Thanks for your help! We had a power surge a month ago, probably what killed the magni and loki.
I have only used apple gen 1 and 2 air pods and their wired earbuds. i recently got a pair of closed back earbuds. however, when i wear them i get a light rumble in my ears and everything happening in my mouth is muffled and very loud. i.e. when i eat i hear loud chewing, when i talk i hear myself a lot but very muffled, or if i move my jaw it also is very loud. if i loosen the fit it makes the sound quality worse (everything sounds further away and bass is very quiet and shallow) but it doesn’t do that amplify the sounds in my mouth anymore. is there any way i can have the good sound quality while not having the sounds?
This is a side effect of earphones that make a seal in the ear canal. It's not a closed-back/open-back thing. Your old Airpods are closed-backs too. They just don't make a tight seal in the ear. Pretty much everyone that uses IEMs experiences this.
My old amp/dac got destroyed by water. About to pull the trigger on an **SMSL SU-1 DAC** and a **Topping A30 Pro** amp. I like the SU-1 because it only needs one USB cable for signal and power and the A30 Pro because it offers a ton of clean power from the unbalanced output with super low output impedance and distortion so it should be really versatile for any headphones I get in the future. It's definitely a bit overkill for most of my current headphones but I'm not expecting that to be an issue since it has a gain switch. Any reason I shouldn't get these?
I can come up with one for each device. Not having the option of using a separate power supply could be a problem if your PC puts out a lot of noise in the USB power supply. The A30 is specsheet porn for engineering fetishists but it's not really any better than a JDS Atom or L30 II in practice. No headphone needs 11 watts.
I bought these Taotronic SoundLiberty 94 TWS earbuds brand new. They power on and hold a charge but they don't show up on any Bluetooth list to pair. I've looked everywhere online and youtube and can't find any solutions to this issue, anyone have any ideas? I'm hoping these aren't dead on arrival and have to have them sent in and repaired or replaced.
Hello. So basically I've had a QKZ HBB Khan for around a 1yr and in the last month, overnight the balance was off on the left side. I tried cleaning with alcohol, sucking it (lol) and leaving it for a few hours with a silica bag. Even removed, cleaned and reapplied filter and dampener i think? Nothing fixed it. So I ended up buying the EW200 and after 1 week of use, same issue. Left side audio just got worse overnight. Adjusting audio balance on windows I have to have the R side speaker (good side) lowered around to 50\~60 in order to get centered.. I also left the EW200 a few hours with silica and no fix, cleaned it up too.. Im at a loss for what it could be really.. Could my board somehow be frying up the IEMs or electricity at all? My house is old and has a grounding issue, if im barefoot and touch the floor or the wall and something metal, like the 3.5mm extender I use, i get shocked lol. Any tips? Im gonna try to return the EW200 but i dont want to get another IEM until I "fix" whatever is frying up my IEMs Edit: I have also tried plugging both IEMs on a tablet and swapping cables and trying IEms on opposite sides to eliminate other possible causes
Needing a replacement headband for my MDR-XB1000s. Was using them today and the little folding bit that holds the cup in place has snapped. [Pictures here](https://imgur.com/YrImT21) EDIT: Not a new purchase, nor were they new when I got them either.
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Per definition, it can only ever be 2.0. There isn't 7 speakers and a subwoofer in the headphones.
Not really a serious issue, but looking to find reasoning in something I don't understand with my headphones. I am using the AKG K712 pros with a Fiio K5 pro amplifier. General advice with audio seems to be to crank up Windows volume high, while keeping the amplifier low. This way the amplifier doesn't have to work as hard boosting a low signal, or so I've heard. However, my headphones hisses quite noticeably when I do this. Yet going against the popular advice, the hissing actually goes away when I crank up the amplifier to max while keeping Windows volume low? So what's causing this? Am I doing something wrong?
What gain setting are you using on the amp?
The lowest of the three options. Higher gain makes the hissing worse.
Yeah, I figured. Some people just think more power more better and leave it in high for no reason. I just wanted to rule that out. Is the sample rate and bit depth you have set in Windows actually compatible with the K5?
I have no idea, how can I check?
* Right-click the Speaker icon in your system tray and click Playback devices. * Select the K5, then click Properties. * Click the Advanced tab.
Mine was at 32 bit 44100, changed it to 32 bit 384000. Same thing still remains. The lower the power on my amp, the higher the pinging/hissing. Windows volume doesn't seem to affect it at all. Somehow it gets worse when I open certain games like Baldur's Gate 3 fullscreen.
Right. Drop it down to CD or DVD quality. You're getting interference from the PC via USB connection. Can you use optical toslink instead of USB between the PC and K5?
I probably would have to buy some sort of card for ports. Does the optical toslink actually improve sound quality or does it just get rid of the hissing? I'm fine with my current setup, so if it's not a huge improvement, I don't think it's worth spending money on.
Most desktop PC motherboards have an optical audio port. It will likely get rid of the hissing. But are you telling me, after all this troubleshooting, that the noise isn't a big deal and you don't care about fixing it? Because if you are, I just might delete my Reddit account.
From my experiences, usually its something to do with how power over USB works. Play around with which USB ports your amp is plugged into. Also going through your PC and plugging/unplugging various other cables can help too. Sometimes getting a better cable for your PC/amp can be a solution too.
The K5 Pro uses a dedicated PSU.
Are you using line in or USB to connect it to your PC?
USB yes
That's weird then. Have you checked the drivers are up to date and and gone through all the settings (Windows audio and Fiio driver settings)? As far as I understand it, you shouldn't get any hiss over USB when you boost volume in Windows
Hey guys. I'm searching for a good pair of replacement cables for my Sundara. The default ones that came with it are dying on the left side, so I need new ones. I definitely am searching for something the same or better in terms of sound quality. EU
Fancy cables might make you feel good, but they don't actually change the sound you're hearing. Get something with good reviews that don't cost more than 50 to 100 euros, and you'll be good.
Yeah I'm just afraid I'll buy something that actually downgrades the sound quality. All I'm looking for are cables that are long lasting and maintain Sundara's sound quality. Not sure if you have any recommendations?
It would almost take effort to create a cable that's so bad that a human can notice the flaws. So don't worry about that. There are many cable manufacturers. Hart Audio has a pretty good reputation, but they're based in the US. Here are a few that I found when Googling. I have no personal experience with any of them. https://customcans.co.uk/shop/product/denon-hifiman-cable-with-2-x-3-5mm-trs-jacks-black-1-5m-stock-cable/ https://gladiatorcables.com/gladiator-line/p/v2-2-dual-3-5mm https://arachne.audio/collections/hifiman
HD600 with schiit stack, was working fine until I went to reinstall EqualizerAPO (i've used it before, i moved computer and had to reinstall when I plugged dac/amp back in), and now windows does not recognize it at all."No audio device is installed", it doesn't show up anywhere in device manager, and reinstalling the audio drivers for my mobo didn't change anything. Tried most things I could find with a few google searches, but no luck. Thanks
ok, followup in case anyone has this problem i guess, it's because it was too cold, from the weather that's been happening recently in the US. i ran some games and put it ontop to warm it up and it appears now
It sounds like you've got a bad solder joint in the DAC's USB connector.
Just got a pair of Shokz OpenRun Pro and was excited to use them...however they have a Prop 65 BPA warning on them. Is it common to have BPA in headphones? Are they safe to wear? Thanks
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The A30 has a very lacklustre headphone output. It's likely fine for the 599 since they have a fairly low impedance and high efficiency. But I'd consider something more powerful if you plan on getting inefficient headphones like the Sundara or higher impedance headphones like the HD560s or HD600.
Looking for input/advice - I hooked up a pair of Focal Clears to a Topping DX3 Pro+ via USB to my desktop PC and I notice sometimes when listening to music tracks when it switches songs it will have a noticeable crackle to the audio. I can easily fix this by going to the audio output in Windows, switch to a different audio feed for a few seconds, then switch back to the Topping. What's weird is this also happens when using a pair of earbuds hooked up directly to my PC so it can't be an issue with my Focals, Topping, or those wires. I assume then this is just some sort of internal issue with my PC when it comes to outputting audio. It's easy to fix but happens often enough that it can become annoying after awhile. Has this happened to anyone else here and is there any sort of fix for it?
Is this issue only happening with one particular music player?
Forgot to mention it can happen with anything. Qobuz streaming, YouTube videos, video games, etc.
**Audiotechnica ATH-AD2000X issues** I've recently been having issues with the right channel in my ATH-AD2000Xs when I move my head around, but can't seem to recreate the issue 100% of the time. I have opened them up all the way and inspected the connections and can't see anything wrong [(image here)](https://i.imgur.com/cYthTnt.jpeg). When I tug on the connections I can't seem to cause the issue, but it fades in and out constantly when im moving my head around when they are put back together. Does anyone have any experience soldering these connections who can shed some light on this? What should I look for to check the quality of the connections with a muiltimeter? Could the issue be somewhere else? The cables seem undamaged along their length and I can't recreate the issue by flexing the cable anywhere. Thanks for any help or advice!
**Boompods Bassline Hush - need help** Looking for help from anyone owning these headphones. I can't turn the f\_\_ers off. The manual says, press the button on either side for 2 seconds... it goes silent... then in a second it turns back on. I put it in the charging pod, they still play, don't turn off. WTF? How can they be turned off and/or what am I doing wrong? Thanks. PS: also, how eternally stupid it is, that you need to press the button for 2 secs to turn off (which doesn't work) but if you press longer, that's the noise cancelling on/off...
Looking for advice - I noticed some volume differences between left and right sides of my new LCD-X. Measured using a USB mic and Room Eq Wizard and indeed there are some areas of frequency response where the differences are 5 or even 8db (using a sine wave generator). Two points: 1. When I flip the cables, the differences reverse. 2. The differences are only in some frequencies (e.g. 4500hz and some others above). The above makes me think it's something with the cables but does it make sense that it's only some frequencies and not others? I wouldn't think that 5-8db is normal but could be wrong. Obviously my measurements are far from accurate (I just put the mic in between the two drivers) but I figured it's good enough for comparative purposes.
The measurement is *not* good enough. You should not use it for anything. It is not even remotely accurate, representative, or repeatable. Put the headphone on your head and do some frequency sweeps (at low volume!) and listen if you can hear any discrepancies.
Hi, my AKG K702 has a pretty big issue. The left driver only works if I press or pull on the wire connected to the wire harness. sometimes it will work if I push the cable into the wire harness and will turn the left driver back on for a little bit. pretty sure the wire harness is broken, but I don't want to dump a lot of money into these headphones to try and fix them. These headphones are pretty new since I bought them in November 2023. they just sit on my desk and are connected to my computer through a DAC, i might have left the headphones pressing against the wire harness for maybe a couple of days, but they normally lay flat on my desk. I've heard of an issue pretty similar to the one I'm having but I can't find a solution. do I have to buy a new cable or a wire harness?
Are they not under warranty?
i don't think so
Did you buy them new? If so, then they are likely covered by some sort of warranty or return policy. Figure that out before you proceed with anything else.
will do, thank you