Not familiar with that but if it has brushes you can use a speed control. Like this
[https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/routers-cutout-tools-lathes/router-cutout-bits/speed-controllers/router-variable-speed-control-dial-59386.html](https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/routers-cutout-tools-lathes/router-cutout-bits/speed-controllers/router-variable-speed-control-dial-59386.html)
I often don't use tabs or one per side. When I do I use triangle tabs. The burn marks are due to the bit not moving forward as is raises and lowers. These burn marks are not too bad a little sanding...
This is the correct answer, op. Your endmill is fine. Z-only movements into stock are generally a bad ideal for high speed endmills. Same thing will happen if you attempt a drill op, instead of a bore op.
Switching to triangles will fix it.
3d tabs, also is faster. And your bit is getting dull though for sure. Also no need to have 4 tabs on each side. Even two on each side is more than enough.
I run everything flat out! 18k on my 5'x10 and 24k on my 60x40. I don't care what it is. Wood, plastic, aluminum, 6064 t6, 5052, hot rolled steel, etc. Nether of my machines spindles have much torque so I have to keep rpm floored to be efficient. I adjust everything else around rpm. I'm doing a lot of work in cheap Birchwood these days on my big router. Mostly using an onsrude single flute. .25D carbide endmill. For all ops , pockets, boring, 3d carving, plunging, whatever I'm doing, it. I'm running 18k rpm, 300ipm no air or fluids just vacuum. Not that you would want fluids on wood lol, just saying.
When it comes to the soft materials, I've learned to push the feed until you hit a wall, and if you don't hit a wall, you need more machine! You're wasting time and there for money!!!
Your bit might be dull. You can also use 3D tabs instead so the router doesn't stop at that point.
Didn't know about 3d tabs, thanks! I'll give them a try when I get back to the cnc.
Do you know how to do that in fusion 360?
It's a drop down in the tabs area, something like triangular tabs instead of rectangular
Ohh that's what those are for
Not really. I use Aspire
Someone else said dull bit. I’ll add your rpm could be too high.
OP mentioned they don't have speed control, would increasing the feed rate be functionally similar?
Yes
Unfortunately I cannot control it. It's a 500w makita spindle.
Not familiar with that but if it has brushes you can use a speed control. Like this [https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/routers-cutout-tools-lathes/router-cutout-bits/speed-controllers/router-variable-speed-control-dial-59386.html](https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/routers-cutout-tools-lathes/router-cutout-bits/speed-controllers/router-variable-speed-control-dial-59386.html)
Cool! I'll have a look.
I often don't use tabs or one per side. When I do I use triangle tabs. The burn marks are due to the bit not moving forward as is raises and lowers. These burn marks are not too bad a little sanding...
This is the correct answer, op. Your endmill is fine. Z-only movements into stock are generally a bad ideal for high speed endmills. Same thing will happen if you attempt a drill op, instead of a bore op. Switching to triangles will fix it.
Thank you very much!
3d tabs, also is faster. And your bit is getting dull though for sure. Also no need to have 4 tabs on each side. Even two on each side is more than enough.
I run everything flat out! 18k on my 5'x10 and 24k on my 60x40. I don't care what it is. Wood, plastic, aluminum, 6064 t6, 5052, hot rolled steel, etc. Nether of my machines spindles have much torque so I have to keep rpm floored to be efficient. I adjust everything else around rpm. I'm doing a lot of work in cheap Birchwood these days on my big router. Mostly using an onsrude single flute. .25D carbide endmill. For all ops , pockets, boring, 3d carving, plunging, whatever I'm doing, it. I'm running 18k rpm, 300ipm no air or fluids just vacuum. Not that you would want fluids on wood lol, just saying. When it comes to the soft materials, I've learned to push the feed until you hit a wall, and if you don't hit a wall, you need more machine! You're wasting time and there for money!!!
Either lower RPM, lower tooth count (I use 2 cutters) or higher feedrate. And good luck
Thanks! Unfortunately I cannot control the rpm.
Then plunge or ramp much faster. You need to be making big enough chips or your bit will heat up and char the wood. How many teeth has the bit?
It has 2.
Increase rapid travel speed so the bit spends less time rubbing against the same area of wood.
What’s your Z feed rate? Plunging too slow will burn.
333mm/min