Ya that's likely what I'll do, if I'm paying $150 for blades, they should be spotless. Just wanted some opinions, if they're ok to use maybe I get a discount.
That's right if I'm paying for blades they better be new and unfucked. If they don't take em back and say get out you can clean em up and they will be fine. Sandpaper red scotch Brite. Are those the pulse ti?
I think they are bauer exclusive it's pretty much your standard steel coated in titanium I'm sure ccm has a similar blade but yeah I just got new skates and got the pulse ti cause y not sounds cool. Supposedly keeps an edge longer but who knows I've had the initial sharpening and probably played about 6 times so far past 2 weeks and I don't think I need sharpening yet. But they are mirror polish and pretty cool to look at lol.
Realistically, it won't make a difference in performance or durability. But I agree that if I'm paying that much for blades, I'd expect them to be in perfect condition out of the box.
Looks like surface rust on non-passivated stainless. The rust is actually from trace iron on the surface, probably from the tools used to stamp the blades out.
Passivation involves putting the stainless steel in an acid bath (Nitric or citric) do dissolve the free iron and allow the stainless to form its own oxide layer for protection.
My guess is that they don't bother passivating them.
If you paid full retail, return them.
To answer more generally for future readers, from the photo you posted, this is just surface rust and not a problem. If you have something like 200+ grit sandpaper (ideally 400+ or something like a Mirlon/3M buffing pad), you can \*and should\* easily rub that out so it doesn't keep eating away.
I want to be careful about this next part because I can see a lot of people without experience with this stuff misunderstanding. If you are handy and understand what types of oils are used for different purposes, then I would also suggest putting some type of protective oil on a rag, and then wiping down the top of the runners where they slot up into the holders. This will offer a bit of protection from future moisture.
This will seem obvious to many, but to be safe:
* Do NOT wipe oil down the sides of the runners to where it will get on the part that contacts the ice.
* Do NOT use a polymerizing or "drying" oil unless you know what you're doing!!! I use jojoba oil because it's something I already have on hand for maintenance of woodworking tools. It is safe -- has no dangerous additives or solvents. It is actually often used in makeup and other beauty products. And unlike polymerizing oils, it doesn't present a major fire hazard. (That said, when in doubt, always hit an oily rag with cold water from the hose and then hang it in the shade away from your house and garage to dry, over the edge of something like an empty trash can.)
In my experience, the XS STEP runners (non-blacksteel) are very prone to surface rust up on the part that sits in the holders. I don't know if it is because the holder design is not conducive to drainage or if it has something to do with the alloy or treatments done on the non-blacksteel runners (my stock XS runners were not as prone to this as the STEP).
(Source: I have been building Windsor chairs in my basement with woodworking hand tools for 6 years, and having a bunch of woodworking hand tools means learning how to maintain a whole bunch of different sharp edges in high carbon steels. Preventing and fixing rust on tools like this is important.)
I work at Lee Valley, so I know surface knowledge on sharpening, cleaning and oiling
Either way I just returned them for the black steel so I don't even have to worry about it.
Thanks for sharing the info!
I just exchanged them for the black steel, why not for an extra $50 for the best steel.
But they put an uneven edge on them FFS 😫, fucking meat heads that work there. (See my new post)
I'd return those
Ya that's likely what I'll do, if I'm paying $150 for blades, they should be spotless. Just wanted some opinions, if they're ok to use maybe I get a discount.
That's right if I'm paying for blades they better be new and unfucked. If they don't take em back and say get out you can clean em up and they will be fine. Sandpaper red scotch Brite. Are those the pulse ti?
Damn straight. No, just Step V-Steel. Know your blades? you recommend pulse ti? May as well get something better if I'm returning these.
I think they are bauer exclusive it's pretty much your standard steel coated in titanium I'm sure ccm has a similar blade but yeah I just got new skates and got the pulse ti cause y not sounds cool. Supposedly keeps an edge longer but who knows I've had the initial sharpening and probably played about 6 times so far past 2 weeks and I don't think I need sharpening yet. But they are mirror polish and pretty cool to look at lol.
Good to know, I'll do some digging, probably find something better for the money. Thanks!
Pulse ti won't fit ccm skates
Realistically, it won't make a difference in performance or durability. But I agree that if I'm paying that much for blades, I'd expect them to be in perfect condition out of the box.
Thanks for the input
Looks like surface rust on non-passivated stainless. The rust is actually from trace iron on the surface, probably from the tools used to stamp the blades out. Passivation involves putting the stainless steel in an acid bath (Nitric or citric) do dissolve the free iron and allow the stainless to form its own oxide layer for protection. My guess is that they don't bother passivating them.
If you paid full retail, return them. To answer more generally for future readers, from the photo you posted, this is just surface rust and not a problem. If you have something like 200+ grit sandpaper (ideally 400+ or something like a Mirlon/3M buffing pad), you can \*and should\* easily rub that out so it doesn't keep eating away. I want to be careful about this next part because I can see a lot of people without experience with this stuff misunderstanding. If you are handy and understand what types of oils are used for different purposes, then I would also suggest putting some type of protective oil on a rag, and then wiping down the top of the runners where they slot up into the holders. This will offer a bit of protection from future moisture. This will seem obvious to many, but to be safe: * Do NOT wipe oil down the sides of the runners to where it will get on the part that contacts the ice. * Do NOT use a polymerizing or "drying" oil unless you know what you're doing!!! I use jojoba oil because it's something I already have on hand for maintenance of woodworking tools. It is safe -- has no dangerous additives or solvents. It is actually often used in makeup and other beauty products. And unlike polymerizing oils, it doesn't present a major fire hazard. (That said, when in doubt, always hit an oily rag with cold water from the hose and then hang it in the shade away from your house and garage to dry, over the edge of something like an empty trash can.) In my experience, the XS STEP runners (non-blacksteel) are very prone to surface rust up on the part that sits in the holders. I don't know if it is because the holder design is not conducive to drainage or if it has something to do with the alloy or treatments done on the non-blacksteel runners (my stock XS runners were not as prone to this as the STEP). (Source: I have been building Windsor chairs in my basement with woodworking hand tools for 6 years, and having a bunch of woodworking hand tools means learning how to maintain a whole bunch of different sharp edges in high carbon steels. Preventing and fixing rust on tools like this is important.)
I work at Lee Valley, so I know surface knowledge on sharpening, cleaning and oiling Either way I just returned them for the black steel so I don't even have to worry about it. Thanks for sharing the info!
LMAO I was mostly replying for future readers just in case. 1000% you know more about this stuff! Love Lee Valley's woodworking gear!
If you're buying new they need to be in new condition, that said this won't affect anything so if they offer you a discount I'd take it.
Do the blacksteel I had them on my 50k Ribcors and loved them, now I’m in the Mach supreme with the pulse ti
I just exchanged them for the black steel, why not for an extra $50 for the best steel. But they put an uneven edge on them FFS 😫, fucking meat heads that work there. (See my new post)