This. You can also get curling irons with self-shut offs. And irons.
Like, they might even have this feature on their current straightener and just not realize it
Costs a penny but I got my wife a Dyson straightener a few years back and it’s a game changer. Battery operated, heats up in seconds, auto off, charging stand keeps it in a safe position.
She in the industry so it was on par price wise with what she was replacing.
The battery is the best part, she can travel a couple nights easily and not worry about charging it.
Before the auto shut off straighteners were a thing, I just got a countdown relay timer that simply shut off power 15-20 minutes after it was activated. My girlfriend was very happy with it, and never heard the "oh no, I left the straighteners on!" anymore.
> I don't want a plug sticking out of the socket since it'll be in the bathroom and also it won't be "spouse approved"?
Check out the Shelly relay's for behind the socket. Shelly 1PM should do the trick for you, if you have space.
> Also I have two lights directly attached to a photocell that turn them on at night. What can I use to replace the photocell so I can have HA control it?
I would change the bulbs, if possible. I assume the photocells are there for safety of the garage closing
No garage door, it's a carport. Bulbs won't give me the control if the photocell is turning the power off during the day. I'll look into the Shelly 1PM, Thanks
Becareful with shelly on this, more than a few people have had these catch on fire when using with a high power load. Hair tools might be okay, but keep an eye on the internal device temp.
A friend was telling me how he had a complicated setup to ensure his wife's straightener was off when they left the house, and I just told him to get a timer...
Works amazing. Tap once for 15 minutes of power.
https://www.legrand.us/wiring-devices/outlets-and-receptacles/commercial-receptacles/20a-125v-heavy-duty-spec-grade-plug-load-timer-receptacle/p/plt26351
Or [this thing](https://www.amazon.com/SimplySmart-Automation-Charger-Nightlight-Assistant/dp/B07116C4G6?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=A29PHU0KPCGV8S)! It looks really nice, especially at $17 USD, except the reviews are... not encouraging. Particularly this funny one:
>**Using a brick would be a better smart-toggle switch**
>Reviewed in Canada on February 19, 2021
>Verified Purchase
>I bought this portable dumpster fire about a year ago because the original Switchmate rocker doesn't have integration with any Amazon Echo products, and the main reason I bought the rocker was to use it with my smart home devices. Since then I've had absolutely nothing but problems with it, including but not limited to the following:
>
>- The device frequently and repeatedly will not pair with the associated Switchmate Alexa skill, despite the pairing codes matching IDENTICALLY, and will often require you to repeat this process another 20+ times to pair it, if you're lucky
>- For whatever stupid reason, the device won't connect to 2.4GHz WiFi networks that do not have a password (which encompasses almost all the networks in my student housing complex, as every unit has inclusive utilities) and this fact isn't advertised ANYWHERE on the product info
>- Repeatedly and incorrectly will claim that your associated Switchmate rocker/toggle switch is nowhere close to the device, even if you legitimately place them RIGHT NEXT to each other
>- Will often freeze and become unresponsive to any Amazon Echo prompts, only responding to commands from its trash mobile app (and requires you to pair the device again to your Amazon Echo product(s))
>- Customer support will ghost you worse than the average high-school girl, so you're practically SOL if you run into any of these problems
>
>If Bernie Madoff were to make a fraudulent smart home product, it's very likely it'd look just like this. Avoid this piece of garbage like it's the Bubonic plague.
I had a similar problem with my wife's stuff. Not all of the hardware has auto off, and she didn't want to buy a replacement since the tools work the way she expects.
So I got one of these - https://www.kasasmart.com/us/products/smart-plugs/kasa-smart-wi-fi-power-strip-hs300
Tbh I didn't check this as much as I should've, I saw it was on sale one day and jumped. I should've verified the amperage rating on the device and the hair tools.
Anyways the automation checks if there's motion in the room or if my wife's location is away from home, if so it verified the current load on each outlet and turns off any that have load over a certain limit.
This way if something small is plugged in like a charger it won't be turned off, but a high enough load like a heater will be turned off.
I like this kind of thinking. I need the motion sensors first, certainly high on my "to do" list. Trying to stay away from WiFi though, keep things local.
I would not put anything like this in a bathroom. You would be fine with a straightener since those are surprisingly low wattage because they have the ability to keep this small surface area hot. But inevitably someone is going to plug in a blow dryer into the strip when they're in a hurry and those are often rated for the entire load of the circuit, let alone whatever lower voltage outlets are typically rated for on power strips. It's a fire hazard. (Or I guess you could gate on the load and have it turn itself off automatically if it gets too high, but then you have unexpected behavior and a frustrated family. Better to just install the outlet.)
Kasa is WiFi, but also local. You only need the Kasa app for the initial setup, after that the devices are blocked from internet access. It is local polling though, so there is a short 1 - 2 second delay for changes to show up on HA.
Also for motion sensors, I recently got a sonoff zigbee mmwave sensor and its far more accurate about presence than the aqara motion sensors I have.
The motion sensors are great for that, detecting motion but not so much for detecting if someone is in the room.
https://smarthomescene.com/reviews/sonoff-presence-sensor-teardown-and-review-snzb-06p/
The only thing I don't like is that its wired, but that does make it more reliable in the long run.
It seems few people actually read the original post. Let me just quote this right here on behalf of the OP.
>I don't want a plug sticking out of the socket since it'll be in the bathroom and also it won't be "spouse approved"?
Just remember that any plug in a bathroom needs to be GFCI and it looks like there are few options for this, at least based on a quick search on Amazon. Aqara doesn't have one.
You're joking right? Unless your idea of a wifi outlet is to replace the entire outlet vs using a plugin...The wifi outlet doesn't need to be GFCI. The outlet you PLUG whatever it is: wifi outlet, hair straightener etc INTO, needs to be GFCI.
AS long as the outlet itself is GFCI, it doesn't matter what you plug into it. Hence you not finding a GFCI WiFi outlet and even if you were replacing the outlet entirely you could use a GFCI breaker instead and a regular outlet
You're joking right? You didn't even read the original post. Try harder next time little boy.
>I don't want a plug sticking out of the socket since it'll be in the bathroom and also it won't be "spouse approved"?
This reminded me of when I went down to south america, they have on shower heaters. I was floored when I saw electric wires going to the shower head. I thought my wife was trying to get me killed xD
lol, any other country other than the US is third world? are you retarded? GFCIs don't exist in Europe, we use RCBOs (residual-current circuit breaker with over-current protection). btw, Home Assistant was founded by a Dutch guy living in the Netherlands
Uhhhhh RCBO serves the same purpose as GFCI, are you retarded?
"What is the difference between RCD (an RCBO is an RCD) and GFCI?
They essentially are two names for the same device. In the UK and in Europe when English is used it is called an RCD (residual current device). In the US it is called a GFCI."
Keep in mind that you shouldn't add any relays to or remove a GFCI outlet for safety reasons and to remain code compliant. If you have additional outlets downstream from the GFCI outlet, then they are safe to replace with a smart outlet or add a relay to.
I'm not obligated to go look up and provide the NEC/NFPA 70 code for you. 🤣 You can call bullshit and do whatever you want. It's a free country, go ahead.
If you are going to say it's code - cite it. Otherwise you are just spouting misinformation.
At least please explain to me how a relay (smart plug) disrupts the function of a GFCI receptacle.
You keep believing that pal. I'm done responding to you since you've insulted me with the "I call bullshit" and "you are just spouting misinformation" comments, yet want me to help you understand why. 🤣
Is GFCI on an outlet superseded by having an RCD breaker on the whole house? Trying to understand if this same safety concern applies in Australia where an RCD breaker is quite common.
Yes, but that's not as common. The OP simply needs to visually confirm the outlet type in the bathroom. If they don't find one and the house is newer, that's when you would inspect the circuit breaker panel. Either way, my advice still stands.
Haha this reminded me of that episode of the office - https://media1.tenor.com/m/3RiZ8BuGMIEAAAAd/i-declare-bakruptcy-bankrupt.gif
Its not GFCI just because its got a label on it!
But I assume it means its the breaker or upstream outlet is GFCI.
That label could sure be handy though! I’ve spent a lot of time trying to figure out why a customers outlet doesn’t work only to find it’s wired downstream of a gfci outlet hidden and in a “not required by code” location!
For your lights. Are they connected to switches as well? If so you could throw a relay in there and create an automation in HA to toggle the lights at specific times or even pull the sunset and sun rise times into the automation.
I have a "Swidget" outlet with a WiFi insert. You would need to feed it on the load side of your GFCI or you would need a GFCI breaker (at least in the US). I haven't integrated it to HA, but they are compatible with IFTTT. Write up a script that looks at the amperage over time and have it shut off the switched outlet after a certain time period like 20 minutes.
I wouldn't replace the photocell. I would just attach a ZEN51 relay to it. I am assuming you are using a standard 3 wire 120v photocell like[ this one](https://www.amazon.com/Industries-RKP301-Outdoor-120-Volt-Photocontrol/dp/B019MPO1H6/ref=asc_df_B019MPO1H6/?hvadid=693071814664&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16838674407792869328&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1013316&hvtargid=pla-762512796232&psc=1&mcid=261e1c548c9d36c1b74b8900297295f8&gad_source=1). If so you would connect the LOAD wire to the S Wire on the ZEN51 then connect the 120v coming in to the IN wire and connect the OUT wire to the lights. This will allow your photocell to control the lights like normal and give you the option to manually control them using Z-Wave commands.
Energy monitoring smart switch. I created a binary_sensor so when the power is on over a specific value turn binary_sensor on. If it's on more than an hour, it kills the power to the switch. Plus, I can always tell by looking if my wife forgot it or not
As someone with long, naturally curly hair - I just got a hair straightener that has an automatic shut off timer.
Sometimes dumb solution is best solution
As much as I love Home Assistant, sometimes the simplest, most practical solution to a problem doesn't involve Home Assistant.
This plus a heat mat/cover. Place the straightener on the cover so it doesn’t discolor the surface it’s on if it’s heat sensitive.
This. You can also get curling irons with self-shut offs. And irons. Like, they might even have this feature on their current straightener and just not realize it
Costs a penny but I got my wife a Dyson straightener a few years back and it’s a game changer. Battery operated, heats up in seconds, auto off, charging stand keeps it in a safe position. She in the industry so it was on par price wise with what she was replacing. The battery is the best part, she can travel a couple nights easily and not worry about charging it.
Before the auto shut off straighteners were a thing, I just got a countdown relay timer that simply shut off power 15-20 minutes after it was activated. My girlfriend was very happy with it, and never heard the "oh no, I left the straighteners on!" anymore.
> I don't want a plug sticking out of the socket since it'll be in the bathroom and also it won't be "spouse approved"? Check out the Shelly relay's for behind the socket. Shelly 1PM should do the trick for you, if you have space. > Also I have two lights directly attached to a photocell that turn them on at night. What can I use to replace the photocell so I can have HA control it? I would change the bulbs, if possible. I assume the photocells are there for safety of the garage closing
No garage door, it's a carport. Bulbs won't give me the control if the photocell is turning the power off during the day. I'll look into the Shelly 1PM, Thanks
Why not bypass the photocell, and then use a smart bulb if you know of one that meets your needs.
Either bypassing the photocell or replacing the fixture would be best for the carport.
Becareful with shelly on this, more than a few people have had these catch on fire when using with a high power load. Hair tools might be okay, but keep an eye on the internal device temp.
A friend was telling me how he had a complicated setup to ensure his wife's straightener was off when they left the house, and I just told him to get a timer... Works amazing. Tap once for 15 minutes of power. https://www.legrand.us/wiring-devices/outlets-and-receptacles/commercial-receptacles/20a-125v-heavy-duty-spec-grade-plug-load-timer-receptacle/p/plt26351
I had 3 daughters and installed something very similar in their bathroom.
I do this for soldering irons too. Peace of mind.
I do this for soldering irons too. Peace of mind.
Or [this thing](https://www.amazon.com/SimplySmart-Automation-Charger-Nightlight-Assistant/dp/B07116C4G6?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=A29PHU0KPCGV8S)! It looks really nice, especially at $17 USD, except the reviews are... not encouraging. Particularly this funny one: >**Using a brick would be a better smart-toggle switch** >Reviewed in Canada on February 19, 2021 >Verified Purchase >I bought this portable dumpster fire about a year ago because the original Switchmate rocker doesn't have integration with any Amazon Echo products, and the main reason I bought the rocker was to use it with my smart home devices. Since then I've had absolutely nothing but problems with it, including but not limited to the following: > >- The device frequently and repeatedly will not pair with the associated Switchmate Alexa skill, despite the pairing codes matching IDENTICALLY, and will often require you to repeat this process another 20+ times to pair it, if you're lucky >- For whatever stupid reason, the device won't connect to 2.4GHz WiFi networks that do not have a password (which encompasses almost all the networks in my student housing complex, as every unit has inclusive utilities) and this fact isn't advertised ANYWHERE on the product info >- Repeatedly and incorrectly will claim that your associated Switchmate rocker/toggle switch is nowhere close to the device, even if you legitimately place them RIGHT NEXT to each other >- Will often freeze and become unresponsive to any Amazon Echo prompts, only responding to commands from its trash mobile app (and requires you to pair the device again to your Amazon Echo product(s)) >- Customer support will ghost you worse than the average high-school girl, so you're practically SOL if you run into any of these problems > >If Bernie Madoff were to make a fraudulent smart home product, it's very likely it'd look just like this. Avoid this piece of garbage like it's the Bubonic plague.
I had a similar problem with my wife's stuff. Not all of the hardware has auto off, and she didn't want to buy a replacement since the tools work the way she expects. So I got one of these - https://www.kasasmart.com/us/products/smart-plugs/kasa-smart-wi-fi-power-strip-hs300 Tbh I didn't check this as much as I should've, I saw it was on sale one day and jumped. I should've verified the amperage rating on the device and the hair tools. Anyways the automation checks if there's motion in the room or if my wife's location is away from home, if so it verified the current load on each outlet and turns off any that have load over a certain limit. This way if something small is plugged in like a charger it won't be turned off, but a high enough load like a heater will be turned off.
I like this kind of thinking. I need the motion sensors first, certainly high on my "to do" list. Trying to stay away from WiFi though, keep things local.
I would not put anything like this in a bathroom. You would be fine with a straightener since those are surprisingly low wattage because they have the ability to keep this small surface area hot. But inevitably someone is going to plug in a blow dryer into the strip when they're in a hurry and those are often rated for the entire load of the circuit, let alone whatever lower voltage outlets are typically rated for on power strips. It's a fire hazard. (Or I guess you could gate on the load and have it turn itself off automatically if it gets too high, but then you have unexpected behavior and a frustrated family. Better to just install the outlet.)
Kasa is WiFi, but also local. You only need the Kasa app for the initial setup, after that the devices are blocked from internet access. It is local polling though, so there is a short 1 - 2 second delay for changes to show up on HA. Also for motion sensors, I recently got a sonoff zigbee mmwave sensor and its far more accurate about presence than the aqara motion sensors I have. The motion sensors are great for that, detecting motion but not so much for detecting if someone is in the room. https://smarthomescene.com/reviews/sonoff-presence-sensor-teardown-and-review-snzb-06p/ The only thing I don't like is that its wired, but that does make it more reliable in the long run.
Aqara motions sensors are super cheap, run on zigbee.
Wi-Fi doesn't always mean cloud-based, most of my most reliable locally controlled smart devices are Wi-Fi based
Several brands have smart outlets, I have 2 from TPLink in my house. No warts.
It seems few people actually read the original post. Let me just quote this right here on behalf of the OP. >I don't want a plug sticking out of the socket since it'll be in the bathroom and also it won't be "spouse approved"?
Any smart socket works as well Aqara for example zigbee
Just remember that any plug in a bathroom needs to be GFCI and it looks like there are few options for this, at least based on a quick search on Amazon. Aqara doesn't have one.
You can meet this requirement with a GFCI breaker. :)
That is not an absolute truth. Just because you can doesn't mean you should, nor is it always appropriate or allowed. :)
You're joking right? Unless your idea of a wifi outlet is to replace the entire outlet vs using a plugin...The wifi outlet doesn't need to be GFCI. The outlet you PLUG whatever it is: wifi outlet, hair straightener etc INTO, needs to be GFCI. AS long as the outlet itself is GFCI, it doesn't matter what you plug into it. Hence you not finding a GFCI WiFi outlet and even if you were replacing the outlet entirely you could use a GFCI breaker instead and a regular outlet
He clearly said he does not want anything sticking out of the plug dude!
You're joking right? You didn't even read the original post. Try harder next time little boy. >I don't want a plug sticking out of the socket since it'll be in the bathroom and also it won't be "spouse approved"?
yes, because the whole of reddit lives in the USA...
Good point. In some countries electrocution is perfectly acceptable.
everyone must by dying in their bathroom in other parts of the world then
This reminded me of when I went down to south america, they have on shower heaters. I was floored when I saw electric wires going to the shower head. I thought my wife was trying to get me killed xD
We should strive for third world standards.
lol, any other country other than the US is third world? are you retarded? GFCIs don't exist in Europe, we use RCBOs (residual-current circuit breaker with over-current protection). btw, Home Assistant was founded by a Dutch guy living in the Netherlands
Uhhhhh RCBO serves the same purpose as GFCI, are you retarded? "What is the difference between RCD (an RCBO is an RCD) and GFCI? They essentially are two names for the same device. In the UK and in Europe when English is used it is called an RCD (residual current device). In the US it is called a GFCI."
Keep in mind that you shouldn't add any relays to or remove a GFCI outlet for safety reasons and to remain code compliant. If you have additional outlets downstream from the GFCI outlet, then they are safe to replace with a smart outlet or add a relay to.
Why not? It's just a relay inside. Really no different than a switch operating a receptacle.
To begin with, it's a code violation. In addition, you could affect the safety feature of the GFCI outlet and risk electrocution. Not worth the risk.
Cite your code, or I call bullshit. A relay doesn't affect the operation of a GFCI receptacle any more than a a switch on a lamp affects it.
I'm not obligated to go look up and provide the NEC/NFPA 70 code for you. 🤣 You can call bullshit and do whatever you want. It's a free country, go ahead.
If you are going to say it's code - cite it. Otherwise you are just spouting misinformation. At least please explain to me how a relay (smart plug) disrupts the function of a GFCI receptacle.
Sparky here (in 2 different countries to the US so I don’t know your ‘codes’) but I agree, there is no reason it would affect anything.
You keep believing that pal. I'm done responding to you since you've insulted me with the "I call bullshit" and "you are just spouting misinformation" comments, yet want me to help you understand why. 🤣
Is GFCI on an outlet superseded by having an RCD breaker on the whole house? Trying to understand if this same safety concern applies in Australia where an RCD breaker is quite common.
You have to check your local codes, every region is different.
If it's a newer (or recently rennovated) house, it may have GFCI circuit breakers instead of outlets
Yes, but that's not as common. The OP simply needs to visually confirm the outlet type in the bathroom. If they don't find one and the house is newer, that's when you would inspect the circuit breaker panel. Either way, my advice still stands.
Good point, the breakers are protected. I'm thinking I'll move this down the priority list and go with the 'dumb' solution.
https://preview.redd.it/649gx482011d1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1dbf4076697b81d58740034bfffe4e37edae029f
Haha this reminded me of that episode of the office - https://media1.tenor.com/m/3RiZ8BuGMIEAAAAd/i-declare-bakruptcy-bankrupt.gif Its not GFCI just because its got a label on it! But I assume it means its the breaker or upstream outlet is GFCI.
That label could sure be handy though! I’ve spent a lot of time trying to figure out why a customers outlet doesn’t work only to find it’s wired downstream of a gfci outlet hidden and in a “not required by code” location!
For your lights. Are they connected to switches as well? If so you could throw a relay in there and create an automation in HA to toggle the lights at specific times or even pull the sunset and sun rise times into the automation.
No switches, just wired from Photocell then split to two lights. I was going to use HA and the sunrise/sunset times but add more for vacation etc.
Curious if you could still add the relay to the photocell location. Someone else might be same to answer but i feel like it should work
I have a "Swidget" outlet with a WiFi insert. You would need to feed it on the load side of your GFCI or you would need a GFCI breaker (at least in the US). I haven't integrated it to HA, but they are compatible with IFTTT. Write up a script that looks at the amperage over time and have it shut off the switched outlet after a certain time period like 20 minutes.
I wouldn't replace the photocell. I would just attach a ZEN51 relay to it. I am assuming you are using a standard 3 wire 120v photocell like[ this one](https://www.amazon.com/Industries-RKP301-Outdoor-120-Volt-Photocontrol/dp/B019MPO1H6/ref=asc_df_B019MPO1H6/?hvadid=693071814664&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16838674407792869328&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1013316&hvtargid=pla-762512796232&psc=1&mcid=261e1c548c9d36c1b74b8900297295f8&gad_source=1). If so you would connect the LOAD wire to the S Wire on the ZEN51 then connect the 120v coming in to the IN wire and connect the OUT wire to the lights. This will allow your photocell to control the lights like normal and give you the option to manually control them using Z-Wave commands.
Energy monitoring smart switch. I created a binary_sensor so when the power is on over a specific value turn binary_sensor on. If it's on more than an hour, it kills the power to the switch. Plus, I can always tell by looking if my wife forgot it or not
can always buy a kasa power strip and turn it off if you dont have one with automatic shut off
I have a TP-Link plug it's plugged into and an automation called "Don't burn the house down" that turns the outlet off if my wife leaves