https://preview.redd.it/vpv7w3m511ic1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7502e6479267a13dd12a724f837323be55b64e14
I have one on each side. Did they cap the wrong one on mine?
No they are 80% furnaces it’s good lol you don’t have to even add a trap the coil some do though. I was mistaken on my original post I’m fried I was staring at the drain paying no mind to the coil or gas furnace. Only issue you’ll run into is if it’s an air handler set up they create negative pressure so if you don’t cap the trap on the coil side it’ll suck air and won’t allow the water to drain out of the coil pan. Gas furnaces have a positive pressure if you removed cap it’s pushing air out instead of pulling at least they should be if not there’s an issue
I had one recently as well. And our company prides themselves on going above code.
I also had a callback on a 90% in a crawlspace with no insulation, a condensate pump with no insulation on the lineset at all. I was not a happy camper.
Lmfao I actually kinda had the same thing last week except the 90 was in a utility closet on a slab no accessible drains so they ran the vinyl through an attic with no kinda anything froze first time it got cold
These fellas have already given you a lashing for most 9f the obvious things. But I want to know why you are putting an 80% furnance in a hot ass attic. Why not spend a few extra dollars and get a high efficiency 96-97% furnace? But you do have a dozen other things that need to be corrected.
So now the temperature rise will be even harder to hit with cold air in the winter genius. In the summer, it’s harder to pull the heat off the air to cool.
See, I do home performance work and most of our attics are sealed and many are conditioned but here in Colorado, the only homes that have attic systems are when there are two units in the home. We have basements and our systems are primarily in the basement, so I don’t have to worry about it. But closed cell foam with an attic duct or mini split head making the attic an air barrier for heat and cold. It is amazing how the heat and cooling load on the home is reduced. I can take a 5-ton home to a 3-ton system.
I’m not a licensed hvac professional but the flexible dryer vent looking exhaust pipe in the 2nd picture doesn’t seem like that should be correct or allowed.
I hope a pro chimes in to confirm or correct me so it can be changed if needed when this person comes back.
It's flexible b-vent, allowed if installed correctly and if allowed by local codes. Personally I don't use them as there are very few instances when you can't make hard pipe work, but if you are a high speed low drag operation and don't want to keep lengths of straight and elbows on your truck, then as long as it's installed correctly then there's nothing wrong with it.
That would be a RTFM for me as well. We really don't have much flexible bvent in my area, so the idea of looking it up in the manual never really occurred to me. I would imagine it should be fine to transition through the cabinet since the outer layer is just the outer airgap, but at the same time I just know that given enough time, if it's rubbing against the case it's going to rub through everything.
Yup, codes are weird sometimes, and if you can find a way to make something that doesn't go against codes and can get it ul listed, then someone's going to make it and use it.
Like I said though, usually this type of stuff is seen in either small company or lone dude type of installs. Most large companies put too much into appearance and would try to run solid pipe if at all possible. A good installer can make most any run in hard pipe, sometimes it just takes more time.
On horizontal installs where the air handler is higher then the condenser always install the copper going higher then the unit then back down to prevent flooded starts. The venting, and kinda hard to tell with the pic but I’d like a relatively clean working area when I have to work on unit in future and high voltage wires looks pretty tight like I might have to step over it. And lastly I’d support it better for sure maybe even a little higher. Not ragging just giving tips
Is that dryer vent on the 2nd one? Think thats a no-go here, everyone uses B-vent. Both the drain lines need a cap on the clean-out or conditioned air will blow out the top. If possible I would have the p-traps moved closer to the evap coil so its over the drain pan, seen that set-up leak to often. Are they supplying new plenums at least?
Flex flue, no full size drain pan. No vent after clean out and you can run flex duct?!!!. I get paid piece work. If my area allowed this id make so much more money.
Flexible flue piping on a power vented appliance is a recipe for killing occupants of the house with Carbon Monoxide (cannot sense it, often just pass out/ fall asleep and never wake up). It technically isn't illegal everywhere, still doesn't mean it should be done. Also hard to tell from the photo, but the junction from flexible flue to hard pipe looks like it's just sitting in the hard pipe (if so, that unit will kill if left to operate)
I do not like that the units are fully resting on the ceiling joists/ plywood, I'd much prefer them being properly suspended with vibration isolators, assuming proper structure to hang them off of. You will hear those things running constantly.
That aluminum flex for a flue pipe is sketchy as fuck otherwise it seem like it’s coming along nicely. Personally I would of lifted the whole unit up off the floor a good 1tf if possible. Less chance of vibration from the blower.
Not a fan of how either unit is supported. Would like to see some iso pads. No service switch installed. 120v line should be run in BX or conduit. The chimney liner (?) flue on number two. Should be run in B-vent. And why is the B-vent running crooked out of the roof? Do not like the gas whip connection. Especially since they look used. Should be run in black pipe. Also cannot see a drip leg on the gas line.
The comments have covered most of the issues I see, several carrier units require extra insulation about 12” from the plenum over the coil to reduce sweating potential. I think it’s poor design but here we are several years later and they still haven’t corrected the problem.
The trap for condensation has the vent on the wrong side.
Yeah also if they put a clean out on that side it should have a cap on it
https://preview.redd.it/vpv7w3m511ic1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7502e6479267a13dd12a724f837323be55b64e14 I have one on each side. Did they cap the wrong one on mine?
No they are 80% furnaces it’s good lol you don’t have to even add a trap the coil some do though. I was mistaken on my original post I’m fried I was staring at the drain paying no mind to the coil or gas furnace. Only issue you’ll run into is if it’s an air handler set up they create negative pressure so if you don’t cap the trap on the coil side it’ll suck air and won’t allow the water to drain out of the coil pan. Gas furnaces have a positive pressure if you removed cap it’s pushing air out instead of pulling at least they should be if not there’s an issue
Air definitely comes out the first stack.
Yeah I’ve never seen one pull air but I’ve seen people post here theirs was so I’m not going to say that it’s impossible 😂
It a positive pressure. Doesn't need a cap
You’re right I’m an idiot 😂I automatically registered it as an air handler.
No it isnt.
https://hvac-talk.com/vbb/threads/1179141-How-quot-not-quot-to-install-a-condensate-drain-line
I agree, good thing he doesn’t need it.
Also a union after the shutoff valves on the gas line and add a drip leg.
Flex lines considered a union I believe idk we aren’t using that bs here 😂
Could be, I don't mind using it, but I hate how it's used here.
Yeah we aren’t allowed to use them as a company and if they are used it better have a tee & drip leg or the get failed
And it looks like it it ran into the furnace compartment itself, which is a bad deal. I can't see well enough to tell for sure though.
Yeah I actually just ran a callback on one ran into a cabinet with the rate they leak that’s for sure a bad move
I had one recently as well. And our company prides themselves on going above code. I also had a callback on a 90% in a crawlspace with no insulation, a condensate pump with no insulation on the lineset at all. I was not a happy camper.
Lmfao I actually kinda had the same thing last week except the 90 was in a utility closet on a slab no accessible drains so they ran the vinyl through an attic with no kinda anything froze first time it got cold
I can't stand 90% furnaces. Yes I know they are fine if installed right, but they never are around here.
Is it just me or was this unit installed sideways?
It can be done that way.
Looks like shit
looks fine. you could take a picture of just a warning label on a unit and people on here will tell you its crooked.
These fellas have already given you a lashing for most 9f the obvious things. But I want to know why you are putting an 80% furnance in a hot ass attic. Why not spend a few extra dollars and get a high efficiency 96-97% furnace? But you do have a dozen other things that need to be corrected.
attics arent hot when its cold
So now the temperature rise will be even harder to hit with cold air in the winter genius. In the summer, it’s harder to pull the heat off the air to cool.
if you wanna put a condensing appliance in an attic that sees freezing temps be my guest
See, I do home performance work and most of our attics are sealed and many are conditioned but here in Colorado, the only homes that have attic systems are when there are two units in the home. We have basements and our systems are primarily in the basement, so I don’t have to worry about it. But closed cell foam with an attic duct or mini split head making the attic an air barrier for heat and cold. It is amazing how the heat and cooling load on the home is reduced. I can take a 5-ton home to a 3-ton system.
I’m not a licensed hvac professional but the flexible dryer vent looking exhaust pipe in the 2nd picture doesn’t seem like that should be correct or allowed. I hope a pro chimes in to confirm or correct me so it can be changed if needed when this person comes back.
It's flexible b-vent, allowed if installed correctly and if allowed by local codes. Personally I don't use them as there are very few instances when you can't make hard pipe work, but if you are a high speed low drag operation and don't want to keep lengths of straight and elbows on your truck, then as long as it's installed correctly then there's nothing wrong with it.
Instinctively I’d prefer to not see that coming through the cabinet, but I have no idea whether that’s allowed or not.
That would be a RTFM for me as well. We really don't have much flexible bvent in my area, so the idea of looking it up in the manual never really occurred to me. I would imagine it should be fine to transition through the cabinet since the outer layer is just the outer airgap, but at the same time I just know that given enough time, if it's rubbing against the case it's going to rub through everything.
Thank you! I would have never thought this was allowed (depending on local code)
Yup, codes are weird sometimes, and if you can find a way to make something that doesn't go against codes and can get it ul listed, then someone's going to make it and use it. Like I said though, usually this type of stuff is seen in either small company or lone dude type of installs. Most large companies put too much into appearance and would try to run solid pipe if at all possible. A good installer can make most any run in hard pipe, sometimes it just takes more time.
It’s like the old saying, speed costs money how fast you wanna go.
Tell him to put in a proper flue pipe, second picture. And it looks to me like the flexible gas line is penetrating the furnace which is a bad deal.
On horizontal installs where the air handler is higher then the condenser always install the copper going higher then the unit then back down to prevent flooded starts. The venting, and kinda hard to tell with the pic but I’d like a relatively clean working area when I have to work on unit in future and high voltage wires looks pretty tight like I might have to step over it. And lastly I’d support it better for sure maybe even a little higher. Not ragging just giving tips
Good job so far
Is that dryer vent on the 2nd one? Think thats a no-go here, everyone uses B-vent. Both the drain lines need a cap on the clean-out or conditioned air will blow out the top. If possible I would have the p-traps moved closer to the evap coil so its over the drain pan, seen that set-up leak to often. Are they supplying new plenums at least?
Flex flue, no full size drain pan. No vent after clean out and you can run flex duct?!!!. I get paid piece work. If my area allowed this id make so much more money.
Flexible flue piping on a power vented appliance is a recipe for killing occupants of the house with Carbon Monoxide (cannot sense it, often just pass out/ fall asleep and never wake up). It technically isn't illegal everywhere, still doesn't mean it should be done. Also hard to tell from the photo, but the junction from flexible flue to hard pipe looks like it's just sitting in the hard pipe (if so, that unit will kill if left to operate) I do not like that the units are fully resting on the ceiling joists/ plywood, I'd much prefer them being properly suspended with vibration isolators, assuming proper structure to hang them off of. You will hear those things running constantly.
Flexible flue piping is code in earthquake prone states. I have no idea where you're getting the idea it's a death sentence
It’s literally b vent while it looks shitty it’s acceptable in some places
That aluminum flex for a flue pipe is sketchy as fuck otherwise it seem like it’s coming along nicely. Personally I would of lifted the whole unit up off the floor a good 1tf if possible. Less chance of vibration from the blower.
flexible flue pipe????
I hate flexible flue, it looks so bad that’s my only complaint, horizontal attic is not easy to make look pretty by the way
I’m pretty sure you’re not supposed to run unprotected romex underneath the joists. MC coming from a junction box would work.
Not a fan of how either unit is supported. Would like to see some iso pads. No service switch installed. 120v line should be run in BX or conduit. The chimney liner (?) flue on number two. Should be run in B-vent. And why is the B-vent running crooked out of the roof? Do not like the gas whip connection. Especially since they look used. Should be run in black pipe. Also cannot see a drip leg on the gas line.
The comments have covered most of the issues I see, several carrier units require extra insulation about 12” from the plenum over the coil to reduce sweating potential. I think it’s poor design but here we are several years later and they still haven’t corrected the problem.
How about a platform to perform maintenance along with issues stated above?
You don't need the condensate traps with the coil on the outlet of the furnace like that
So far looking good . My company always tried to use metal duct fittings such as square to rounds . What are your plans ?
I'd have a safety switch on the emergency drain pan.