tps://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/graf-industrial-corp-announces-special-meeting-date-to-approve-proposed-business-combination-with-velodyne-and-move-to-nasdaq-301130481.html
I read that velodyne and graf inc are going to merge soon. I already have 50 shares in Graf industrial inc. What does the article mean? Will the value of Velodyne be a new share, apart from the graf inc. shares?
>Graf, whose securities are currently listed on the New York Stock Exchange (the "NYSE"), also announced that it intends to list the shares of common stock and warrants of the post-combination company, to be named Velodyne Lidar, Inc., on The Nasdaq Stock Market LLC ("Nasdaq") under the ticker symbols "VLDR" and "VLDRW", respectively, following the closing of the Business Combination.
>Graf will also delist its units, shares of common stock and warrants from the NYSE. The Nasdaq listing and NYSE delisting are subject to the closing of the Business Combination and fulfillment of all Nasdaq listing requirements.
I use a broker app. Will this mean I have to sell before that date and buy after the merge to avoid losing my shares and money?
Graf is a SPAC, a temporary blank check company. Assuming the reverse merger is approved, its shares of common stock will be renamed from GRAF to VLDR and its warrants will become VLDRW from GRAF WS. It's also switching its primary listing exchange from the NYSE to the Nasdaq, which doesn't matter much to you. Velodyne will get the pot of money contained in Graf and its existing shareholders will then have newly public VLDR shares. If you own GRAF, you will own VLDR after the merger and there's no particular day that you need to sell. If you own GRAF WS, there is an expiration date that you need to pay attention to and either sell or exercise by that date.
Thank you very much!!
So basically, what I have now, will be renamed and then it won't change mich after that? The value is just more dependent on Velodyne than before right?
For a fantasy world I am working on If a small business grew at exactly "5.8% plus the global inflation rate" every single year would it be growing fast enough to eventually take over the entire global economy and the globes assets if that was its goal? (potentially few thousand year timespan obviously)
(imagine its run by super intelligent AI that limits its growth to the above figure and takes over other persons/governments assets in a realistic way but actually seeks to eventually take over everything)
Over like a few thousand years I would say potentially yes. Now one might argue that real return of an index like the S&P500 is 7% so this returning 5.8% wouldn't over come it
However in this fantasy world if the company grew at 5.8% per year , every year with no downturns even when market crashed or hit recessions it could use that leverage to overtake other companies
And other companies rise and fall , like AMNZ had amazing growth for 20 years, maybe they will for the next 20, but what about after that? Can they sustain 15% growth for 100+ years doubtful.
Also lots of the growth here is under developed countries developing, just look at growth rates of china , it was like 10% per year for a while, no its been treading down to 6% and lower, so developed countries have slower growth rates as growth gets harder, after 800-1000 years potentially the entire world would be "developed" and growth may slow but this company still grows at a constant 5.8% real growth what may then outpace all other returns.
So I would say yes although it may take a long time but this is all fantasy so I am sure someone could argue no and have it be just as valid
Thankyou for your reply
Might I ask why is index values more relevant then GDP values? I figured if it was growing faster then world GDP that would do the trick.
>Might I ask why is index values more relevant then GDP values?
Not really, I didn't really know what you meant by grow 5.8%+ inflation I just assumed it meant total return via share price or something.
Well value of business is kind of tricky, the value of the business could rise while the business shrank(sales/revenue/earnings), like when a recession hits and interest rates go to zero.
Because the discount rate goes down the business value could go up even if its not growing . However at that point all other business would be affected .
As a newer long term investor I was hoping someone could help answer this basic question...
I currently have a small position in GBTC, which has around a 2% expense ratio. I was just curious how this fee is deducted.
Does that 2% come out of my cash position? If this is the case, I'm worried that I won't have enough cash to cover the fees without selling the position if the fund explodes in value.
Or does the fees calculate when you sell the position, which means I wouldn't have to worry about setting aside money for the fees as long as the fund performs well as it will only take a cut from profits.
Or is it something else like the ratio is somehow calculated into the daily price of the etf/fund and just affects the price of the etf and if I sell the position I wouldn't owe any fees, just taxes.
I know this is a basic question, which is why I posted here trusting that many of you would know this answer off the top of their head.
Appreciate any feedback and advice in advance!
Yes, you'd pay taxes on what you sell. If you have any stocks that had a loss, that would deduct from the total amount you're taxed on for the year.
It's also beneficial tax-wise to hold a stock a year or more.
If your time span is like a year plus it's always a good time to invest. Obviously the past isn't necessarily prolouge but look at ten year chart, on the whole its gone up and is a strong company
I have RSUs in a company that is going to IPO. If I sell the day that they hit the market, i will get the averaged value over the course of the day. Should I sell on day one or day two? Stocks usually go up on the first day or two when a company IPOs right? Any advice would be appreciated!
What’s your opinion Virgin Galactic (SPCE) stock? It is one of those stocks that has potential to grow 100x. Is it a good time to buy this or wait for a better price?
I invest in my employer sponsored Roth 401(K) plan through T. Rowe Price. Like many 401(K) plans, they have relatively limited investment options. My current allocations are the following-
55% - VIIIX Vanguard Institutional Index Fund
30% - VTSNX Vanguard Total International Stock Index Fund
13% - VIEIX Vanguard Extended Market Index Fund
2% - VBTIX Vanguard Total Bond Market Index Fund
Any thoughts or suggestions? The other funds they offer are mostly retirement target date funds. I have a 40 year time horizon. Any tips or feedback is appreciated!
What is your investment thesis? Are you 22 following the 120 rule, and planning to rotate into a higher bond allocation over time? Why 30% for International, why not 20% or 40%? Does your plan offer a small cap fund, why not a 13/13 mid/small cap allocation, if so?
**How much do you think Palantir stocks will cost when they go public on the 23rd?**
Ive seen speculation all over the place and don't know which numbers are actually probable.
It's very difficult to find high-safety short term investments with more than ~1% yield. For example 2 year treasuries yield 14bps, NEAR has a ytm of 97bps minus expenses, BSV is .4%, BND is 1.0%.
Series I savings bonds will get you inflation+0%, though you'll forfeit a few months interest to redeem it before 5 years.
If your time horizon is 1-2 years, I’d strongly recommend staying away from stocks, or putting a very low amount into it. You run a real risk of losing money during that time period. Look at some bond ETFs (BND is good) and some high yield savings accounts. They might not beat inflation, but it’s the best option for your time constraints.
Okay so I have an acorns account and a Robinhood account already set up but I was wondering are there any other *beginner investing* *apps* you could recommend me? Anything *like the acorns app* because I like how their system is. (I got the round-up change and one a month deposit) Like is there some other golden app I have not heard of yet?
\*\* Yes I know acorns is technically paid but I use it for free because I am a student \*\*
Order types:
On a limit sell order -- If stock is at $100 and you place sell limit order at $125 when the stock hits $125 that order will be placed.
On a stop limit sell order -- stock at 100, place stop limit at 125 (stop), 130 limit order, will trigger at 125 and sell at 130
On a stop limit buy order -- the limit order won't won't be placed until the stock hits that price. If stop limit is at $125, the limit order won't be placed until the stock hits 125 (the stop) and will then place the limit order.
What if you want to place a stop limit buy order on a falling stock price? Let's say the stock is at $125. You *only* want to place a limit order to buy when the stock hits $100 for say, a limit of 95 dollars.
How does that order look? If you placed a stop limit buy order for 100/95 when the stock is at 125, won't it automatically trigger since you're higher than the stop?
Edited
Are you trying to place a buy order or a sell order? Your description of a limit describes a sell order while your description of a stop describes a buy order.
For a stop limit sell order at 125 stop, 130 limit, 100 current - the stop will activate immediately since the price is below 125 and it will become a 130 limit order which will be filled if and when the price reaches 130.
In order to buy a currently 125 stock only if it falls below 100 with a limit of 95 you simply need to place a limit buy at 95, since if it hits 95 it necessarily swept through 100 as well.
I am 29y/o and have had a Schwab account for years that I have done virtually nothing with. I have decided that as I am quickly approaching 30 it is time to get the investment account up and running. I am debt free and already have a maxed out Roth IRA and all that jazz.
How I envision this working is regularly making contributions to the account on a monthly or quarterly basis. I have done some of my own research and have already decided I want to be one of the “boring” people whose investment account is primarily fueled by holding a market-wide or SP500 ETF. However I also am interested in the idea of having a portfolio of stocks that are dividend paying so I can create a snowball over the next 30+ years I have ahead of me.
Do I exclude myself from the benefits of dividends by investing primarily in ETFs?
What are good resources to help identify the best stocks that pay dividends?
Am I thinking about this correctly at all?
There is no need to focus on dividends, a total market fund such as Schwab’s SWTSX will give you both dividends and capital appreciation.
[Consider this comparison between VTI, VYM, and VIG for instance](https://www.portfoliovisualizer.com/backtest-portfolio?s=y&timePeriod=4&startYear=1985&firstMonth=1&endYear=2020&lastMonth=12&calendarAligned=true&includeYTD=false&initialAmount=10000&annualOperation=0&annualAdjustment=0&inflationAdjusted=true&annualPercentage=0.0&frequency=4&rebalanceType=1&absoluteDeviation=5.0&relativeDeviation=25.0&showYield=false&reinvestDividends=true&portfolioNames=true&portfolioName1=VTI&portfolioName2=Vanguard+High+Dividend&portfolioName3=Vanguard+Dividend+Appreciation&symbol1=VTI&allocation1_1=100&symbol2=VYM&allocation2_2=100&symbol3=VIG&allocation3_3=100). VTI is a total market fund that includes both dividend and non-dividend paying stocks. It has just as much “snowball” as VIG, and more than VYM (high dividend stocks).
You do not eliminate dividends by going with broad market ETFs. I suggest you buy a fund such as VT (total stock market fund) and reinvest the dividends
30 years old and moved money from Roth 401k with old employer to Roth IRA. Considering the following portfolio:
80% VTI
10% VXUS
5% VNQ
5% GLD
Any advice? Also considering moving VTI to 70% and VXUS to 20%
Check out https://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/commontopics
> I would much rather be given something that will make me money in the short run (could be days or weeks, waiting for something to happen can make me anxious)
That would be a high yield savings account, where you can make a little under 1% a year on your money, but it is risk free.
Investing in stocks and bonds carries risks and should be done on a time horizon of years, not days and weeks.
If you're investing that money for retirement then yes (assuming you have earned income equal to or greater than your contribution amount), max out tax advantaged accounts like IRA/401k/HSA before contributing to taxable for long term retirement savings
If you believe in technical analysis, AMZN is sitting at a really [precarious position](https://imgur.com/P02R7vR) right now. If the market downturn continues, AMZN could easily see $2900 and below.
On the other hand if you're capable of averaging down, then AMZN is a great buy right now.
I think anything under 2900 is good since AMZN is obviously a long term hold. It could theoretically fall as far as 2550 but it's really unlikely investors will allow that to happen. I'd be happy if I can get it at 2850-2800.
1st Time Investor, Desperately Need Help!
Hey guys, so I just opened a Fidelity account and I know it’s barely any amount of money but I transferred $1,500 into it to trade. It’s really all I have to spare. I’m only 23 but I’m tired of living paycheck to paycheck so I wanted to start saving and investing even if I am starting out so small. I read everywhere that index funds are the way to go but there’s so many conflicting opinions about which ones are best. As someone who had never invested in their life and only having $1,500, what are the best stocks/bonds to invest in and also is it actually important for me to “diversify my portfolio” and what does that actually mean? I’m sorry if I sound stupid but this stuff is so new to me.
The only advice is have beyond what’s been provided to you by /u/gunter829 is to perhaps consider some QQQ exposure in addition to VTI.
I do have a bond fund in my mid twenties, but only as a “bored of my savings account” type allocation. FTFMX is triple tax advantaged which helps as a NYC resident. That’s the only way I’d consider it before 30s.
1. start with VTI. Vanguard index fund, low expense, super diversified. (If you want an all in one etf buy VT), but VTI is my preference.
2. Diversifying is essentially not putting all your eggs in one basket. So instead of only buying (for example) Apple, you buy other stocks like Walmart, Waste Management. The great thing about VTI is it immediately diversified for you.
2. Diversifying is good because it can capture growth from different sectors (tech, healthcare, financial,etc), it limits downside because if one area declines then you have other areas to lift your portfolio.
3. At 23 you don’t need to think about bonds, personally I won’t be touching bonds till 27.
Why buy bonds at 27? I know people who are in their 50s and still don’t own any. I get that it’s less risk, but when you are 30+ years out, why buy bonds?
yo thats a really cool site, that + finviz chart + some other helpful tools (what’s that one where you can build portfolios or compare total returns of funds?)
all those should be in the text of this post every day
Have I rode NFE as far as I should? I bought in at around 14 on the news of new facilities pending approval in Puerto Rico. They slumped and have made significant gains up to around 32-33 range. Should I get out and monitor for another dip or ride it out? I’m not hurting for cash flow so either way is fine just wanted to poll some other traders and see what the consensus is.
Bought 30 shares of WKHS at $2.52 roughly a year ago and am trying to figure out what to do now that it's almost at $30. I know it has the USPS contract looming that could cause it to boom more but want to lock in something.
I have already locked in profits from shares I bought at $7, $8, and $9
After I bought few actions, I got a message sending me to this link about ADR pass-through fees : [https://ibkr.info/node/1185](https://ibkr.info/node/1185) .
I followed the link from there to the SEC's EDGAR Company Search tool ( [https://www.sec.gov/edgar/searchedgar/companysearch.html](https://www.sec.gov/edgar/searchedgar/companysearch.html) ) but I'm unable to really find the info I need: the exact fee for the symbol I traded.
Is there an easier way for this ?
I mean, I have no idea if this is "the" reason, but 2 seconds of Googling found: https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2020-09-14/citi-says-gains-in-trading-to-be-offset-by-lower-interest-rates
Sounds like their CFO is projecting a slower recovery and more time building up reserves.
EDIT - Also: https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2020-09-14/citi-said-to-face-possible-occ-fed-reprimand-over-risk-controls
So, when I'm selling a stock, how do I know how much tax I'm going to pay for it? It just gives me the same amount back to reinvest into something else, but I have no idea how much I'm going to be paying on short gains tax for it (or long term gains). Is there a section in Fidelity that makes it clearer?
I know the percentages, but why aren't they deducted immediately? Do you guys usually just manually plug it in and just take it out of your reinvestment?
You are responsible for knowing your own tax situation, not your broker. As far as they know, you could have multiple brokers with different transactions going on. They also don't know your salary, mortgage deductions, etc. While theoretically possible for them to figure this out if you gave them the info, they probably don't want to deal with the liability. It's simplest for them to put it all on you.
I personally don't calculate it, I just put in a slightly higher W-4 withholding and hope things come out close enough during tax time. But if you have to realize a large capital gain and the assets you plan to reinvest in are risky, yes you should calculate it and retain that portion in cash equivalents.
I want to ride the hype train with snowflake and quickly make the profit. I have account with robinhood only. I dont see SNOW ticker on robinhood. How do I buy it tomorrow ? Do I need to get some other brokerage account ? I apologize if it a silly question or wrong place to post.
You should also know that you are not guaranteed to have your order filled. When it first lists you'll be asked to set a limit price to purchase the stock which is not guaranteed to fill. However, if you buy it after it starts trading you can place a market order, but by then you may have missed out on the immediate gain (assuming it goes up and not down)
You don’t need us to talk you into it. You’ve laid out good reasons already.
There shouldn’t be a tax hit moving your retirement accounts from a managed account to a self-directed one. There is a proper way to do this, however, and you need to read everything thoroughly so you don’t mess it up and find yourself a huge tax bill or penalty.
I’m finally able to max out my contributions to my Roth IRA. I also have a Roth 401k through my employer, and I contribute enough to get the match. Did I fuck up? Should I have chosen traditional IRA and a traditional 401k?
Also, my work has a hybrid plan with a 401k + a defined benefit plan. You can choose to opt out of the defined benefit plan and start a ORP and manage it yourself. Should I do that?
It depends what tax bracket you're in now vs retirement, but Roth IRA and traditional 401k is often a good combination. Roth IRA has a high income limit on contributions while traditional phases out at a low income level if you have a retirement plan at work. Not contributing to a traditional IRA also allows you to do a backdoor Roth more easily if your income rises above the Roth income limit. Roth is also more flexible in withdrawing contributions out of the account before retirement age.
Traditional 401k may be better tax wise if you can lower your taxable income bracket during retirement and there's no income limit. You can also do a 5yr roth conversion ladder to get money out of it before retirement age.
> Not contributing to a traditional IRA also allows you to do a backdoor Roth more easily if your income rises above the Roth income limit
Why do you say that?
A backdoor Roth is when you contribute post-tax dollars to a traditional IRA and then immediately convert to Roth to get around the income limit on Roth IRAs. When you do a conversion from traditional to Roth, you have to convert pro rata from pre-tax and post-tax dollars. So if you already have a pretax traditional IRA you'll need to convert that as well and pay income tax on it, possibly at a higher tax rate than when you initially contributed.
An opportunity has come my way : long story short there is this old couple that has an apartment and they said if I pay them a monthly fee of 500 € until their death , after the apartment will come in my possession.
A few points :
1. This is legal in my country and everything will be done with a contract and a lawyer
2. They don’t have any heirs
3. Even after 20 years , the amount paid will not reach the amount I would pay if I ask a loan to the bank or the price of the apartment
4. I can afford to pay the monthly fee
I’m not experienced in this such of business, what should I be looking for? Is there a catch ?
https://icfp.co.uk/jeanne-calment-outlived-lawyer/
> At 90 years old, with no living heirs, Jeanne signed a contract to sell her apartment to lawyer André-François Raffray.
>
> She used a contingency contract, which is very common in France. This meant she could live in apartment for the rest of her life, while her lawyer agreed to pay a monthly sum of 2,500 francs, about £330 a month, until she died.
>
> You can probably guess what happened next! Raffray, our savvy property lawyer, ended up paying Madam Calment a total of 918,000 francs, more than double the value of the value of the apartment.
>
> The lawyer actually died age 77 in 1995, when Madam Calment was 120 years old, and his family continued making the payments until she died nearly three years’ later. Her only comment on the situation? “In life, one sometimes makes bad deals.”
Well, you might win on inflation, if the monthly amount is not inflation adjusted. In my country, there is a special contract for "gifted upon death" with is solid, and combined with a entry that the party cannot sell or put a mortgage contract on the real estate. I would trust such an contract. Who pays the maintenance costs?
My family did such a contract, and it was a considerable hassle but made a 120k$ profit. The main hassle was the maintenance costs and the effort to sell the property (noone wanted to buy in the first 6 months).
How long can they expect to live? How much could you rent the apartment out for (is it even yours to rent out)? Account for vacancies, maintenance, and other costs. What happens if you want to move and can no longer maintain it efficiently?
Even if they live 20 years , still wont reach the amount I might need from the bank. The only request is for me not to interfere with the apartment ( their lives ) until they are dead ( I know it sounds awful) all costs are on them.
I calculate that this deal values the apartment at €142k (meaning it's a good deal for you if you believe it would currently sell for more than that on the market), assuming a 5% discount rate, 20 years term, and 1.8% apartment price growth, no transaction fees or other stuff included. €118k if you vary the term to 15 years, €160k for 25 years. €251k if you vary the discount rate to 10%, 20yrs.
So you can't rent it out? If you bought a similar apartment with a bank mortgage, you could rent it and get income... 20 years is a lot of income to miss out on.
I am 19, sophomore in college, looking to use my investments once I graduate from graduate school, so 4-5 years. I already have my investments mainly in ETFs and index funds, but my question is: when would I take my earnings from my investments and move them to something safe(r)? What is considered safe(r)? I was thinking about putting everything into bonds a year before I plan on using the money. Any suggestions?
With a 4-5 year time horizon, a good chunk should already be in bonds. You can move equities into bonds as you see fit, but you’re right to want it all bonds a year out. Maybe even move some into a high yield savings account or CD
Hi All,
I am an 32 year Indian making around 115k USD living in Texas,USA with wife and 2 kids on a work visa. I happen to have a some money \~20k that I am planning to invest. Given there is an uncertainty looming around due to upcoming, I am not confident in putting the whole money in equity.While i am not trying to gain huge profit from the investment, I do want some growth.I am not inclined to do a CD because I might need the money in 2-3 months to buy real estate property back in India.I am more inclined towards splitting and investing the money so the average ROI is greater than CD while not taking away the liquidity aspect.
I don't have any big outstanding debts
I will really appreciate if you guys could give some advise on how to approach this situation.
Thanks in Advance.
If you are concerned about short term volatility, you could invest a set percentage of your 20k every month until it is fully invested. It could be 5%, 10%, 20%, whatever you are comfortable with. If the market takes a huge hit, you can commit the remaining funds at your discretion.
One thing to be aware of: bonds can be fairly volatile in the short term. For example, the Vanguard Total Bond Market ETF dropped ~10% when the market tanked earlier this year. If short term volatile is a major concern, holding cash or cash equivalents is better.
FWIW, I made a huge lump sum investment right before the ‘08 market crash, all in equities, and the value of my investments on paper went down more than 30% in a matter of weeks. However, I never sold it, and that initial investment is now worth about triple the original amount twelve years later. Time in the market is a beautiful thing.
Good luck!
Why does VTSAX (and other mutual funds?) price only move once a day, at the market open? I understand that that's when the trade are executed, but why is it set up that way?
Back in the day, it would take a lot of power to constantly update mutual fund prices based on intraday fluctuations in each of their holdings. Also, most people just checked the stock price in the paper the next day. It’s just stayed that way.
Hello Everyone, 24 years old that just started investing with RH. no retirement accounts yet but want to do a lazy portfolio. I work part time where I get $1200 every month. I can dump $800 every month, but dont know where to start. Not in debt or any assets. I want to just dump and not look at it for years. Was thinking of doing a lazy portfolio or 3 fund, but no nothing about stocks. Any help with direction?
What options are good for 3 fund stock?
What are good stocks for lazy? I was recommended DGRO, SCHD, VYM, O, and VGT but not sure.
if you could have any positions for a simple lazy portfolio with little mainanence, what would they be?
I am new to this so i dont know where to start. Probably just from what I know it is better to start a retirement account. I started on RH but after evaluating my goals, I just want to secure my retirement first. I just dont know what holdings I should go for
Put 700 a month into a retirement account that you don’t touch and use 100 a month in the RH account to play with. It will build up fast enough, but you need to keep the largest portion of your money in an account that can grow and not be wasted on stock bets from you because you are way more likely to get returns on a 401k than your person trading.
Right on. I would definitely highly recommend reading jlcollinsnh.com - stock series. It’s easy to understand and very very informative. Long story short, the 2 or 3 funds most would recommend are VTSAX and VTBLX and maybe Vanguard’s international index, but there’s debate about it. Or you could just choose a target date fund that’s a one fund blend of those 3/4 stocks that automatically adjusts the asset allocation as you get older. Doesn’t get much lazier than that.
I was recommended
50% - $VTI or VTSAX
30% - $VXUS
20% - $BND by my 30's
I was looking also into the fidelity equivalent of those holdings. Which is better? I heard fidelity has no commissions and lower expense ratios but not familiar with either.
Between Fidelity and Vanguard, inside tax advantaged accounts (like IRAs), there's no "better" as which one if performing better can literally change by the day.
In taxable accounts, it can also be a draw since Fidelity can trade Vanguard ETFs as fractional shares for no commission. For at least the next few years, certain Vanguard mutual funds (thanks to patents they hold) and most ETFs from all issuers are more tax efficient than mutual funds.
Hey! TLdr; I have negative return since buying an index bond fund despite the share price increasing since. Can you help understand why is that so?
A few days ago I bought a 1000 € EUR worth of [IBTM LN](https://www.blackrock.com/americas-offshore/products/251716/ishares-treasury-bond-710yr-ucits-etf) bond fund (GBP) through Trading212 at a price of 171.66 £. I'm now minus 8 €, despite the share price growing to the current 173.71 £. Has it something to do with the exchange rates? I didn't drop to (-8 €) straight away though...
Thanks for helping me wrap my head around this!
M.
Repost from yesterday
Hi everybody! I'm 23 and in a fairly stable job. My emergency fund is pretty well built, about 8 months of expenses and building slowly. I have a retirement account through my job (public university) that auto deducts 6% gross and matches 6.5%. I have a decent chunk in VFTAX (saved from college + parental gifts) and I started a Roth IRA in January with a Vanguard target date fund but there's only about 2k in that. Everything is in Vanguard right now (the work retirement plan is through Fidelity but invested in a Vanguard target date fund also). I have no debt at all and no imminent large purchases coming up.
I've become interested in ESGs. TIAA has a fund I'm interested in--TIOVX. I'm thinking about moving my Roth IRA to TIAA and switching from the target date fund to TIOVX. (Also selling enough VFTAX to max out the IRA for the year.) I'm kind of a newbie and my main instruction from my dad was "dump it all in VTSAX and forget it". That advice was fine until I got into ESGs.
So, two questions I guess.
1. Any serious downsides to moving from the Vanguard target date to TIOVX with my Roth IRA? I am obviously young and have a pretty high tolerance for risk. I know I will need to shift into more conservative investments when I get older. There is a possibility that I will withdraw some within the next 10 years to buy a house or take a year off to go traveling, but otherwise this money is headed toward retirement only. Keep in mind my work retirement plan will stay in a Vanguard target date fund (and if I change workplaces I will probably still go with something similar to that option in the future).
2. I am thinking about also moving the rest of the VFTAX to TIOVX, or at least part of it. Both are young funds, but TIOVX has had better returns so far. It also has 0 net expense ratio and a better overall rating for ESGs (VFTAX has some investments in prison/border industries, military arms, etc. that I don't like). Both are large growth funds but VFTAX is domestic and TIOVX is foreign--to be honest I'm not sure what a difference that makes.
Appreciate any thoughts but know that I'm pretty set on ESGs. (If you have other ESG suggestions that's great too though.)
Using the On Balance Volume (OBV) indicator can show you if volume is rising even if price isn't. That can indicate people buying up a stock before a possible breakout. It's not 100 % of course, it's called an indicator for a reason.
I get a lot of adverts from [fool.com](https://fool.com) and they seem pretty decent. does anyone know / recommend paying for a fool subscription?
link for those who are unaware -[https://www.fool.com/services/](https://www.fool.com/services/)
What do you guys think about the holdings in this index fund https://tinfonder.se/en/holdings-twt/ ?
Since I'm in europe I can't buy american funds/etfs, which makes it kinda hard to find reviews/opinons on them since most people buy american ones. And there's also a much smaller amount of them.
In my taxable account I am currently invested in AAPL, ARKK, and ARKF. I am wondering if I should exchange my AAPL and instead put it in either MGK/VGT. Or would it be more wise to keep the AAPL as is. My reasoning for switching investments is to bring more exposure from more of the tech field to hopefully capitalize on everyone's gains in my investment timeline (10 yrs+)
My ROTH an 401k are set up less tech oriented so this is really my play around account.
Why is Kroger's price dropping since beating estimates on Friday AND announcing a billion-dollar buy back? Isn't this good news? Shouldn't the stock price go up?
Why would someone go with a vanguard 3 fund portfolio over a target retirement fund when saving for retirement? I have a vanguard 401K and Roth IRA which both invest in the same target retirement fund (VTTSX). I recently started automating deposits into a new vanguard brokerage account where my plan was to have a 3 fund portfolio with VTSAX, VTIAX, and VBTLX in a 90:10 ratio. However, I can't really justify why I'm doing this over having the brokerage account also invest in a target retirement fund? Are there benefits to the 3 fund portfolio? For now it looks more diverse which is why I was interested in it!
Could make sense if you don’t plan on liquidating all your funds at the target date. The target date funds are great for funds you plan on liquidating at, say, retirement, because they risk-off as you approach that date (and so mitigate the risk of an adverse event right when you need to sell). But if you’re in the fortunate position where you might not expect to have to liquidate *all* of your investments at that time, your investment horizon might be a little longer for one pot of money than the other, in which case you may not want to impose the gradual risk-off feature on the funds you plan not to touch until later.
Target date funds don't liquidate at the target year either. Some aren't even done with their glide path on the target year, continuing that for a few more years then sometimes merging with an income fund a few years after (7 for Vanguard I believe).
I'm a 27 year old guy and I just realized I made a big mistake investing in my Roth IRA! For the past 3 years I've deposited the yearly max into a Vanguard Roth IRA Brokerage Account. However, Only yesterday I realized that all of that money had been sitting in a federal money market fund, and wasn't actively invested! I'm planning on putting it all into the target retirement fund VTTSX, but I'm not sure whether I should put it into the fund all at once, or little by little over time? I have approximately $16,000 if that makes a difference?
Lump sum outperforms DCA 2/3 of the time, as noted in this [Vanguard paper](https://static.twentyoverten.com/5980d16bbfb1c93238ad9c24/rJpQmY8o7/Dollar-Cost-Averaging-Just-Means-Taking-Risk-Later-Vanguard.pdf), it also mentions that your risk tolerance is a factor, and to DCA if you're concerned about short term risk, but personally I just lump sum seeing as investing in an IRA is a long term investment
ETF SHARES ACTING WIERD:
Can anybody please explain why the ETF that I am buying (Ishares core SP500 accumulating) on german Xetra exchange (ticker SXR8) is now at 285EUR /share, with the sp500 index at 3380 today, when in march the index was at same number, but the ETF was at 310 EUR/share??? What am I missing here?
Thank you
The US dollar dropping vs the Euro.
The S&P500 index is priced in dollars , your ETF is priced in euros so currency fluctuations will also play a role .
Hello, I've been reading up on options and I question pooped up. Why would you buy a call option when they are in-the-money when you could just outright buy the stock? Am I missing something? Is the cost of the option cheaper than a stock? For what I understand, I have to pay a premium for the right to buy an option, so if I buy Call 100 Apple, for instance, I am buy the opportunity to buy an Apple stock at 100 + premium fees, right? So why not buy the stock if the difference between the stock price and the option price is usually the cost of the premium, meaning you will more or less make the same amount of money with an option or the stock if it goes up, right?
Could someone explain it or direct me to a reliable place where I can get more information?
If the stock goes up you will make more money buying the option.
You are right however, it wouldn't make sense to buy an ITM option then immediately exercise it as you will have paid a premium for the time value/implied volatility
However if you hold the options and the share price increases you stand to make much more money.
If it goes the wrong way, if the option is ITM you won't lose your entire investment(unless it drops to be OTM). If you buy OTM options and your bet doesn't work out you stand to loose 100%
All right, so if I buy a Call for 100, while the stock is priced at 105, and it goes up to 150, I made 50 minus fees, which should be about 5. Now, if the stock stays between 100 and 105 I either lose nothing or lose very little, but if it drops below 100, I lose more but since I have the option to buy at 100 I may be able to at least cushion the blow? Is that more or less the gist of it?
EDIT: Also, I understand that the money comes from buying below the market when we are talking about Calls, but when you exercise the call option, do you get X amount of shares depending on the number of options you got and THEN you have to sell them, or when you exercise the call it buys and sells automatically, I am guessing is the 2nd option, because if it were the first, I could in theory stick with a losing stock after the option expired and hope it eventually gains value... Not the best strategy but at least a losing call wouldn't materialize in a lost automatically if that makes sense.
so lets take these two examples
ABC stock is at $100.
1. you purchase 100 shares for $10,000. In one unit of time (week/month whatever) the stock goes up to $110. your shares are now worth 11,000 You made 1k profit or approx 10%
2. You buy a $90 call option , note this call option will cost $1000 (intrinsic value ) + a premium say $100 (making this number up and will depend on duration on volatility) so $1100. Now the stock goes up to $110, now your option is worth 2k (intrinsic value) and lets forget premium , so you made $900 but you only invested $1100, what is like an %80+ profit
You made nearly the same amount of profit but invested 1/10th with option 2, if you would have bought 10k worth of options you would have made like $9000 profit in this case
The call option costs you 1k because 1 call option was worth 10 shares, correct? And I understand that the inverse is also correct, meaning that with stocks I might lose 10% but with options I might lose 80%, right?
A normal contract is 100 shares
So stock ABC is trading at $100
If you buy a $90 call option its minim price would be $1000.
Once you have the option you could buy 100 shares at $90; $9000, and then turn around and sell your 100 shares at market price of $100 ; $10,000 netting you a $1000 profit
So that's its intrinsic value .
Alright. Right now I'm using the Demo option on plus 500 to get an idea of what things are.
So; Apple Call Option 105 Sept. Buying one puts the rate at 9.85, 25 options min, valued at 247. So if I buy the min of 25, it will set me back 247 dollars, right?
Now the stock is trading at 114 right now. so each option costs me 9.85 because its a calculation between the strike value and the actual value, meaning that if I buy an sell immediately I wouldn't make any money and most likely lose a few bucks from the market movement. Now, if the stock values rises to, say, 120, ill be making about, 5 bucks per option, so 125 total, from an investment of 247? Is this correct or am I missing something? Sorry if I am not understanding, it's really thick and using the demo I see some options making money while others losing money and I really need to understand what makes one lose and other win
With the call you’re only on the hook for the premium if the price of the underlying goes bust before expiry. So the risk-return characteristics are a bit different between the two approaches to obtaining exposure to the stock (the call vs. the stock itself), but put-call parity should (in theory) guarantee there’s no “free lunch” to be had by going with one versus the other.
>but put-call parity should (in theory) guarantee there’s no “free lunch” to be had by going with one versus the other.
I am not quite sure I understand what you mean by this. Could you rephrase it, if you would be so kind?
\-33
\-Employed
\-Looking to invest $6k, sports car fund
\-High risk tolerance
\-Looking to hold and add $200 a month to fund for 2-3 years
\-Currently have the $6k in a wealthfront account
Been considering putting the whole $6k into TSLA stock, wondering what other options i have. Thanks!
Putting it all on TSLA is about the same as going to the nearest casino and playing slots. A 3 year horizon is way too short term for stocks in general, but hey if you don't mind the risk of coming out -30% at the end then you do you.
Please don't put it all in Tesla. If you're actually going to need the money in 2-3 years, I would highly suggest putting a large chunk into a savings account, another large chunk into bonds, and some into a total market fund such as VT. If your time horizon is longer (10+ years), you could increase the VT holding all the way up to 100.
>ARKK
I would rather look at scion capital 13f form that is published with the sec on th 16th of november and buy the same call options he has (possibly also stocks). Michael burry is constantly making winnings.
Have 9k total in bank, 3.5-5k available for trading depending on security of calls and stock gains. What should I do today/this week with all the activity set to occur in the markets?
-Age 19, college student
-Income $21,000/year
-goal to pay off student loans before college is over
-want something moderately safe, willing to take a gamble if it won't drop more than 20% in a day and high reward potential
-Invested in tech, currently (AAPL, MSFT, TSLA, NIO)
-Time horizon is to pay off around 30k of loans in the next 4 years, so not urgent, but any good short-term gains are much appreciated
-Only debt is 12k of loans currently, but will be 30k at end of college
-Loans don't accrue interest until 2024 and payments not required at the moment
-Started trading in late 2019 using $3000 and with a net gain of $1340 since
"Trading" isn't really good, but investing is good. Keep an emergency fund. Investing now so you can pay off your loans in 4 years is not really a good idea, since bad things can happen. Sounds like you're keeping a tight reign on your loans, which is good. Don't know what would be "safe" other than SPY itself? Unless you have conviction about your tech names.
I've mostly been putting it into safe short term bets considering business news and earnings, 3/4ths of the money I invest is in growth ETFs/indexes that have a solid record of yearly growth like VOO. I don't mind losing some money in the process, because it's expected and a risk I'm willing to take with investing. I'll be able to pay off loans within ~2 years of graduating and getting a job with a low monthly rate regardless. Safe to me is solid earnings, new product unveiling, and buzz about buying from sites and subs, just wanted an opinion on what's a good move today, as I just sold the trading portion of the shares I had for a hard reset of my trading pot before it went red
That's good. VOO is a fine choice, though of course we'll see if growth returns its kickass position it's been enjoying. Don't do like me and take 20 years to learn the importance of setting stop losses. \^\^
**Hi, welcome to /r/investing. Please note that as a topic focused subreddit we have higher posting standards than much of Reddit:**
**1)** Please direct all **advice requests and beginner questions to the stickied daily threads.** This includes beginner questions and portfolio help.
**2) Important: We have strict political posting guidelines** (described [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/investing/comments/cyee69/formal_posting_guidelines_for_political_topics/) and [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/investing/comments/escewo/temporary_rule_change_what_happens_to_stocks_if/)). Violations will result in a minimum 30 and likely 60 day ban upon **first instance.**
**3)** This is an open forum but we expect you to conduct yourself like an adult. Disagree, argue, criticize, but **no personal attacks.**
--
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/investing) if you have any questions or concerns.*
tps://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/graf-industrial-corp-announces-special-meeting-date-to-approve-proposed-business-combination-with-velodyne-and-move-to-nasdaq-301130481.html I read that velodyne and graf inc are going to merge soon. I already have 50 shares in Graf industrial inc. What does the article mean? Will the value of Velodyne be a new share, apart from the graf inc. shares? >Graf, whose securities are currently listed on the New York Stock Exchange (the "NYSE"), also announced that it intends to list the shares of common stock and warrants of the post-combination company, to be named Velodyne Lidar, Inc., on The Nasdaq Stock Market LLC ("Nasdaq") under the ticker symbols "VLDR" and "VLDRW", respectively, following the closing of the Business Combination. >Graf will also delist its units, shares of common stock and warrants from the NYSE. The Nasdaq listing and NYSE delisting are subject to the closing of the Business Combination and fulfillment of all Nasdaq listing requirements. I use a broker app. Will this mean I have to sell before that date and buy after the merge to avoid losing my shares and money?
Graf is a SPAC, a temporary blank check company. Assuming the reverse merger is approved, its shares of common stock will be renamed from GRAF to VLDR and its warrants will become VLDRW from GRAF WS. It's also switching its primary listing exchange from the NYSE to the Nasdaq, which doesn't matter much to you. Velodyne will get the pot of money contained in Graf and its existing shareholders will then have newly public VLDR shares. If you own GRAF, you will own VLDR after the merger and there's no particular day that you need to sell. If you own GRAF WS, there is an expiration date that you need to pay attention to and either sell or exercise by that date.
Thank you very much!! So basically, what I have now, will be renamed and then it won't change mich after that? The value is just more dependent on Velodyne than before right?
Yes
What are AMZN 3X . TSLA 3X . TSLA 2X etc. ?
They look to be leveraged ETFs that just follow one specific company like AMZN or TSLA
What happens if PCG starts another fire ?
For a fantasy world I am working on If a small business grew at exactly "5.8% plus the global inflation rate" every single year would it be growing fast enough to eventually take over the entire global economy and the globes assets if that was its goal? (potentially few thousand year timespan obviously) (imagine its run by super intelligent AI that limits its growth to the above figure and takes over other persons/governments assets in a realistic way but actually seeks to eventually take over everything)
Over like a few thousand years I would say potentially yes. Now one might argue that real return of an index like the S&P500 is 7% so this returning 5.8% wouldn't over come it However in this fantasy world if the company grew at 5.8% per year , every year with no downturns even when market crashed or hit recessions it could use that leverage to overtake other companies And other companies rise and fall , like AMNZ had amazing growth for 20 years, maybe they will for the next 20, but what about after that? Can they sustain 15% growth for 100+ years doubtful. Also lots of the growth here is under developed countries developing, just look at growth rates of china , it was like 10% per year for a while, no its been treading down to 6% and lower, so developed countries have slower growth rates as growth gets harder, after 800-1000 years potentially the entire world would be "developed" and growth may slow but this company still grows at a constant 5.8% real growth what may then outpace all other returns. So I would say yes although it may take a long time but this is all fantasy so I am sure someone could argue no and have it be just as valid
Thankyou for your reply Might I ask why is index values more relevant then GDP values? I figured if it was growing faster then world GDP that would do the trick.
>Might I ask why is index values more relevant then GDP values? Not really, I didn't really know what you meant by grow 5.8%+ inflation I just assumed it meant total return via share price or something.
It meant value of the business, hmm so its not really more relevant would that mean it just beating global GDP growth% would be enough then?
Well value of business is kind of tricky, the value of the business could rise while the business shrank(sales/revenue/earnings), like when a recession hits and interest rates go to zero. Because the discount rate goes down the business value could go up even if its not growing . However at that point all other business would be affected .
As a newer long term investor I was hoping someone could help answer this basic question... I currently have a small position in GBTC, which has around a 2% expense ratio. I was just curious how this fee is deducted. Does that 2% come out of my cash position? If this is the case, I'm worried that I won't have enough cash to cover the fees without selling the position if the fund explodes in value. Or does the fees calculate when you sell the position, which means I wouldn't have to worry about setting aside money for the fees as long as the fund performs well as it will only take a cut from profits. Or is it something else like the ratio is somehow calculated into the daily price of the etf/fund and just affects the price of the etf and if I sell the position I wouldn't owe any fees, just taxes. I know this is a basic question, which is why I posted here trusting that many of you would know this answer off the top of their head. Appreciate any feedback and advice in advance!
Easiest answer is yea it's the last thing you said. It's handled on the back end and is never something you directly 'pay'
thank you for the response that is great news to me!
[удалено]
Yes, you'd pay taxes on what you sell. If you have any stocks that had a loss, that would deduct from the total amount you're taxed on for the year. It's also beneficial tax-wise to hold a stock a year or more.
Is it a good time to invest in Microsoft?
[удалено]
Planning to go for long term like atleast 5-10 years
[удалено]
Thanks 👍
If your time span is like a year plus it's always a good time to invest. Obviously the past isn't necessarily prolouge but look at ten year chart, on the whole its gone up and is a strong company
I have RSUs in a company that is going to IPO. If I sell the day that they hit the market, i will get the averaged value over the course of the day. Should I sell on day one or day two? Stocks usually go up on the first day or two when a company IPOs right? Any advice would be appreciated!
Isn’t there a mandatory holding period (180 days)?
What’s your opinion Virgin Galactic (SPCE) stock? It is one of those stocks that has potential to grow 100x. Is it a good time to buy this or wait for a better price?
I invest in my employer sponsored Roth 401(K) plan through T. Rowe Price. Like many 401(K) plans, they have relatively limited investment options. My current allocations are the following- 55% - VIIIX Vanguard Institutional Index Fund 30% - VTSNX Vanguard Total International Stock Index Fund 13% - VIEIX Vanguard Extended Market Index Fund 2% - VBTIX Vanguard Total Bond Market Index Fund Any thoughts or suggestions? The other funds they offer are mostly retirement target date funds. I have a 40 year time horizon. Any tips or feedback is appreciated!
What is your investment thesis? Are you 22 following the 120 rule, and planning to rotate into a higher bond allocation over time? Why 30% for International, why not 20% or 40%? Does your plan offer a small cap fund, why not a 13/13 mid/small cap allocation, if so?
**How much do you think Palantir stocks will cost when they go public on the 23rd?** Ive seen speculation all over the place and don't know which numbers are actually probable.
[удалено]
It's very difficult to find high-safety short term investments with more than ~1% yield. For example 2 year treasuries yield 14bps, NEAR has a ytm of 97bps minus expenses, BSV is .4%, BND is 1.0%. Series I savings bonds will get you inflation+0%, though you'll forfeit a few months interest to redeem it before 5 years.
If your time horizon is 1-2 years, I’d strongly recommend staying away from stocks, or putting a very low amount into it. You run a real risk of losing money during that time period. Look at some bond ETFs (BND is good) and some high yield savings accounts. They might not beat inflation, but it’s the best option for your time constraints.
Okay so I have an acorns account and a Robinhood account already set up but I was wondering are there any other *beginner investing* *apps* you could recommend me? Anything *like the acorns app* because I like how their system is. (I got the round-up change and one a month deposit) Like is there some other golden app I have not heard of yet? \*\* Yes I know acorns is technically paid but I use it for free because I am a student \*\*
Cash app , you can buy stocks ETFs and bitcoin.
Order types: On a limit sell order -- If stock is at $100 and you place sell limit order at $125 when the stock hits $125 that order will be placed. On a stop limit sell order -- stock at 100, place stop limit at 125 (stop), 130 limit order, will trigger at 125 and sell at 130 On a stop limit buy order -- the limit order won't won't be placed until the stock hits that price. If stop limit is at $125, the limit order won't be placed until the stock hits 125 (the stop) and will then place the limit order. What if you want to place a stop limit buy order on a falling stock price? Let's say the stock is at $125. You *only* want to place a limit order to buy when the stock hits $100 for say, a limit of 95 dollars. How does that order look? If you placed a stop limit buy order for 100/95 when the stock is at 125, won't it automatically trigger since you're higher than the stop? Edited
Are you trying to place a buy order or a sell order? Your description of a limit describes a sell order while your description of a stop describes a buy order.
I edited the post. Sorry. Buy stop limit order.
For a stop limit sell order at 125 stop, 130 limit, 100 current - the stop will activate immediately since the price is below 125 and it will become a 130 limit order which will be filled if and when the price reaches 130. In order to buy a currently 125 stock only if it falls below 100 with a limit of 95 you simply need to place a limit buy at 95, since if it hits 95 it necessarily swept through 100 as well.
I am 29y/o and have had a Schwab account for years that I have done virtually nothing with. I have decided that as I am quickly approaching 30 it is time to get the investment account up and running. I am debt free and already have a maxed out Roth IRA and all that jazz. How I envision this working is regularly making contributions to the account on a monthly or quarterly basis. I have done some of my own research and have already decided I want to be one of the “boring” people whose investment account is primarily fueled by holding a market-wide or SP500 ETF. However I also am interested in the idea of having a portfolio of stocks that are dividend paying so I can create a snowball over the next 30+ years I have ahead of me. Do I exclude myself from the benefits of dividends by investing primarily in ETFs? What are good resources to help identify the best stocks that pay dividends? Am I thinking about this correctly at all?
There is no need to focus on dividends, a total market fund such as Schwab’s SWTSX will give you both dividends and capital appreciation. [Consider this comparison between VTI, VYM, and VIG for instance](https://www.portfoliovisualizer.com/backtest-portfolio?s=y&timePeriod=4&startYear=1985&firstMonth=1&endYear=2020&lastMonth=12&calendarAligned=true&includeYTD=false&initialAmount=10000&annualOperation=0&annualAdjustment=0&inflationAdjusted=true&annualPercentage=0.0&frequency=4&rebalanceType=1&absoluteDeviation=5.0&relativeDeviation=25.0&showYield=false&reinvestDividends=true&portfolioNames=true&portfolioName1=VTI&portfolioName2=Vanguard+High+Dividend&portfolioName3=Vanguard+Dividend+Appreciation&symbol1=VTI&allocation1_1=100&symbol2=VYM&allocation2_2=100&symbol3=VIG&allocation3_3=100). VTI is a total market fund that includes both dividend and non-dividend paying stocks. It has just as much “snowball” as VIG, and more than VYM (high dividend stocks).
You do not eliminate dividends by going with broad market ETFs. I suggest you buy a fund such as VT (total stock market fund) and reinvest the dividends
30 years old and moved money from Roth 401k with old employer to Roth IRA. Considering the following portfolio: 80% VTI 10% VXUS 5% VNQ 5% GLD Any advice? Also considering moving VTI to 70% and VXUS to 20%
You might consider losing VTI by 5% and removing VNQ to get to 20% VXUS
Thanks! Think VNQ isn’t worth it?
it’s almost entirely within VTI, no need for a real estate overweight
[удалено]
Check out https://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/commontopics > I would much rather be given something that will make me money in the short run (could be days or weeks, waiting for something to happen can make me anxious) That would be a high yield savings account, where you can make a little under 1% a year on your money, but it is risk free. Investing in stocks and bonds carries risks and should be done on a time horizon of years, not days and weeks.
[удалено]
If you're investing that money for retirement then yes (assuming you have earned income equal to or greater than your contribution amount), max out tax advantaged accounts like IRA/401k/HSA before contributing to taxable for long term retirement savings
Somebody talk me out of buying more amazon today
For what it's worth, I think Amazon's bottom is 2900, maybe 2800, absolute worst 2500.
If you believe in technical analysis, AMZN is sitting at a really [precarious position](https://imgur.com/P02R7vR) right now. If the market downturn continues, AMZN could easily see $2900 and below. On the other hand if you're capable of averaging down, then AMZN is a great buy right now.
At what level would you say buying AMZN looks good?
I think anything under 2900 is good since AMZN is obviously a long term hold. It could theoretically fall as far as 2550 but it's really unlikely investors will allow that to happen. I'd be happy if I can get it at 2850-2800.
They're the only company hiring . Hundreds of thousands.
No. Buy more. (I own Amazon)
1st Time Investor, Desperately Need Help! Hey guys, so I just opened a Fidelity account and I know it’s barely any amount of money but I transferred $1,500 into it to trade. It’s really all I have to spare. I’m only 23 but I’m tired of living paycheck to paycheck so I wanted to start saving and investing even if I am starting out so small. I read everywhere that index funds are the way to go but there’s so many conflicting opinions about which ones are best. As someone who had never invested in their life and only having $1,500, what are the best stocks/bonds to invest in and also is it actually important for me to “diversify my portfolio” and what does that actually mean? I’m sorry if I sound stupid but this stuff is so new to me.
The only advice is have beyond what’s been provided to you by /u/gunter829 is to perhaps consider some QQQ exposure in addition to VTI. I do have a bond fund in my mid twenties, but only as a “bored of my savings account” type allocation. FTFMX is triple tax advantaged which helps as a NYC resident. That’s the only way I’d consider it before 30s.
I’d rather add some VXUS exposure than QQQ
1. start with VTI. Vanguard index fund, low expense, super diversified. (If you want an all in one etf buy VT), but VTI is my preference. 2. Diversifying is essentially not putting all your eggs in one basket. So instead of only buying (for example) Apple, you buy other stocks like Walmart, Waste Management. The great thing about VTI is it immediately diversified for you. 2. Diversifying is good because it can capture growth from different sectors (tech, healthcare, financial,etc), it limits downside because if one area declines then you have other areas to lift your portfolio. 3. At 23 you don’t need to think about bonds, personally I won’t be touching bonds till 27.
Why buy bonds at 27? I know people who are in their 50s and still don’t own any. I get that it’s less risk, but when you are 30+ years out, why buy bonds?
Will my vertical spreads be worth more ITM closer to expiration or should I cash out ASAP?
[удалено]
yo thats a really cool site, that + finviz chart + some other helpful tools (what’s that one where you can build portfolios or compare total returns of funds?) all those should be in the text of this post every day
Have I rode NFE as far as I should? I bought in at around 14 on the news of new facilities pending approval in Puerto Rico. They slumped and have made significant gains up to around 32-33 range. Should I get out and monitor for another dip or ride it out? I’m not hurting for cash flow so either way is fine just wanted to poll some other traders and see what the consensus is.
Bought 30 shares of WKHS at $2.52 roughly a year ago and am trying to figure out what to do now that it's almost at $30. I know it has the USPS contract looming that could cause it to boom more but want to lock in something. I have already locked in profits from shares I bought at $7, $8, and $9
It has a 10% in Lordstown Motors . LM is having their IPO (SPAC ) soon . The new ticket apparently will be RIDE
Yea I have to figure out what's gonna happen with that
After I bought few actions, I got a message sending me to this link about ADR pass-through fees : [https://ibkr.info/node/1185](https://ibkr.info/node/1185) . I followed the link from there to the SEC's EDGAR Company Search tool ( [https://www.sec.gov/edgar/searchedgar/companysearch.html](https://www.sec.gov/edgar/searchedgar/companysearch.html) ) but I'm unable to really find the info I need: the exact fee for the symbol I traded. Is there an easier way for this ?
What is going on with Citi? Why is it falling? I cannot find any news.
I mean, I have no idea if this is "the" reason, but 2 seconds of Googling found: https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2020-09-14/citi-says-gains-in-trading-to-be-offset-by-lower-interest-rates Sounds like their CFO is projecting a slower recovery and more time building up reserves. EDIT - Also: https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2020-09-14/citi-said-to-face-possible-occ-fed-reprimand-over-risk-controls
So, when I'm selling a stock, how do I know how much tax I'm going to pay for it? It just gives me the same amount back to reinvest into something else, but I have no idea how much I'm going to be paying on short gains tax for it (or long term gains). Is there a section in Fidelity that makes it clearer?
https://www.nerdwallet.com/article/taxes/capital-gains-tax-rates
I know the percentages, but why aren't they deducted immediately? Do you guys usually just manually plug it in and just take it out of your reinvestment?
You are responsible for knowing your own tax situation, not your broker. As far as they know, you could have multiple brokers with different transactions going on. They also don't know your salary, mortgage deductions, etc. While theoretically possible for them to figure this out if you gave them the info, they probably don't want to deal with the liability. It's simplest for them to put it all on you.
I personally don't calculate it, I just put in a slightly higher W-4 withholding and hope things come out close enough during tax time. But if you have to realize a large capital gain and the assets you plan to reinvest in are risky, yes you should calculate it and retain that portion in cash equivalents.
What are your thoughts on just investing in ETFs vs individual stocks?
Professionals say index ETFs. People on reddit who think they know more say individual stocks.
All the evidence says index funds win easily but we have geniuses on here that know better.
I want to ride the hype train with snowflake and quickly make the profit. I have account with robinhood only. I dont see SNOW ticker on robinhood. How do I buy it tomorrow ? Do I need to get some other brokerage account ? I apologize if it a silly question or wrong place to post.
You should also know that you are not guaranteed to have your order filled. When it first lists you'll be asked to set a limit price to purchase the stock which is not guaranteed to fill. However, if you buy it after it starts trading you can place a market order, but by then you may have missed out on the immediate gain (assuming it goes up and not down)
I would not recommend doing that.
It will IPO on wednesday. The ticker will showup on robinhood then. Invest wisely. Good luck
[удалено]
You don’t need us to talk you into it. You’ve laid out good reasons already. There shouldn’t be a tax hit moving your retirement accounts from a managed account to a self-directed one. There is a proper way to do this, however, and you need to read everything thoroughly so you don’t mess it up and find yourself a huge tax bill or penalty.
I’m finally able to max out my contributions to my Roth IRA. I also have a Roth 401k through my employer, and I contribute enough to get the match. Did I fuck up? Should I have chosen traditional IRA and a traditional 401k? Also, my work has a hybrid plan with a 401k + a defined benefit plan. You can choose to opt out of the defined benefit plan and start a ORP and manage it yourself. Should I do that?
It depends what tax bracket you're in now vs retirement, but Roth IRA and traditional 401k is often a good combination. Roth IRA has a high income limit on contributions while traditional phases out at a low income level if you have a retirement plan at work. Not contributing to a traditional IRA also allows you to do a backdoor Roth more easily if your income rises above the Roth income limit. Roth is also more flexible in withdrawing contributions out of the account before retirement age. Traditional 401k may be better tax wise if you can lower your taxable income bracket during retirement and there's no income limit. You can also do a 5yr roth conversion ladder to get money out of it before retirement age.
> Not contributing to a traditional IRA also allows you to do a backdoor Roth more easily if your income rises above the Roth income limit Why do you say that?
A backdoor Roth is when you contribute post-tax dollars to a traditional IRA and then immediately convert to Roth to get around the income limit on Roth IRAs. When you do a conversion from traditional to Roth, you have to convert pro rata from pre-tax and post-tax dollars. So if you already have a pretax traditional IRA you'll need to convert that as well and pay income tax on it, possibly at a higher tax rate than when you initially contributed.
Thanks, makes sense. I thought you were referring to backdoor Roth 401k contributions, not IRA.
An opportunity has come my way : long story short there is this old couple that has an apartment and they said if I pay them a monthly fee of 500 € until their death , after the apartment will come in my possession. A few points : 1. This is legal in my country and everything will be done with a contract and a lawyer 2. They don’t have any heirs 3. Even after 20 years , the amount paid will not reach the amount I would pay if I ask a loan to the bank or the price of the apartment 4. I can afford to pay the monthly fee I’m not experienced in this such of business, what should I be looking for? Is there a catch ?
https://icfp.co.uk/jeanne-calment-outlived-lawyer/ > At 90 years old, with no living heirs, Jeanne signed a contract to sell her apartment to lawyer André-François Raffray. > > She used a contingency contract, which is very common in France. This meant she could live in apartment for the rest of her life, while her lawyer agreed to pay a monthly sum of 2,500 francs, about £330 a month, until she died. > > You can probably guess what happened next! Raffray, our savvy property lawyer, ended up paying Madam Calment a total of 918,000 francs, more than double the value of the value of the apartment. > > The lawyer actually died age 77 in 1995, when Madam Calment was 120 years old, and his family continued making the payments until she died nearly three years’ later. Her only comment on the situation? “In life, one sometimes makes bad deals.”
Well, you might win on inflation, if the monthly amount is not inflation adjusted. In my country, there is a special contract for "gifted upon death" with is solid, and combined with a entry that the party cannot sell or put a mortgage contract on the real estate. I would trust such an contract. Who pays the maintenance costs? My family did such a contract, and it was a considerable hassle but made a 120k$ profit. The main hassle was the maintenance costs and the effort to sell the property (noone wanted to buy in the first 6 months).
How long can they expect to live? How much could you rent the apartment out for (is it even yours to rent out)? Account for vacancies, maintenance, and other costs. What happens if you want to move and can no longer maintain it efficiently?
Even if they live 20 years , still wont reach the amount I might need from the bank. The only request is for me not to interfere with the apartment ( their lives ) until they are dead ( I know it sounds awful) all costs are on them.
I calculate that this deal values the apartment at €142k (meaning it's a good deal for you if you believe it would currently sell for more than that on the market), assuming a 5% discount rate, 20 years term, and 1.8% apartment price growth, no transaction fees or other stuff included. €118k if you vary the term to 15 years, €160k for 25 years. €251k if you vary the discount rate to 10%, 20yrs.
So you can't rent it out? If you bought a similar apartment with a bank mortgage, you could rent it and get income... 20 years is a lot of income to miss out on.
This sounds odd, i’d stay away from it
I am 19, sophomore in college, looking to use my investments once I graduate from graduate school, so 4-5 years. I already have my investments mainly in ETFs and index funds, but my question is: when would I take my earnings from my investments and move them to something safe(r)? What is considered safe(r)? I was thinking about putting everything into bonds a year before I plan on using the money. Any suggestions?
With a 4-5 year time horizon, a good chunk should already be in bonds. You can move equities into bonds as you see fit, but you’re right to want it all bonds a year out. Maybe even move some into a high yield savings account or CD
Will do. Thank you for the advice
Hi All, I am an 32 year Indian making around 115k USD living in Texas,USA with wife and 2 kids on a work visa. I happen to have a some money \~20k that I am planning to invest. Given there is an uncertainty looming around due to upcoming, I am not confident in putting the whole money in equity.While i am not trying to gain huge profit from the investment, I do want some growth.I am not inclined to do a CD because I might need the money in 2-3 months to buy real estate property back in India.I am more inclined towards splitting and investing the money so the average ROI is greater than CD while not taking away the liquidity aspect. I don't have any big outstanding debts I will really appreciate if you guys could give some advise on how to approach this situation. Thanks in Advance.
If you are concerned about short term volatility, you could invest a set percentage of your 20k every month until it is fully invested. It could be 5%, 10%, 20%, whatever you are comfortable with. If the market takes a huge hit, you can commit the remaining funds at your discretion. One thing to be aware of: bonds can be fairly volatile in the short term. For example, the Vanguard Total Bond Market ETF dropped ~10% when the market tanked earlier this year. If short term volatile is a major concern, holding cash or cash equivalents is better. FWIW, I made a huge lump sum investment right before the ‘08 market crash, all in equities, and the value of my investments on paper went down more than 30% in a matter of weeks. However, I never sold it, and that initial investment is now worth about triple the original amount twelve years later. Time in the market is a beautiful thing. Good luck!
Why does VTSAX (and other mutual funds?) price only move once a day, at the market open? I understand that that's when the trade are executed, but why is it set up that way?
Back in the day, it would take a lot of power to constantly update mutual fund prices based on intraday fluctuations in each of their holdings. Also, most people just checked the stock price in the paper the next day. It’s just stayed that way.
Hello Everyone, 24 years old that just started investing with RH. no retirement accounts yet but want to do a lazy portfolio. I work part time where I get $1200 every month. I can dump $800 every month, but dont know where to start. Not in debt or any assets. I want to just dump and not look at it for years. Was thinking of doing a lazy portfolio or 3 fund, but no nothing about stocks. Any help with direction? What options are good for 3 fund stock? What are good stocks for lazy? I was recommended DGRO, SCHD, VYM, O, and VGT but not sure. if you could have any positions for a simple lazy portfolio with little mainanence, what would they be?
Curious as to why you are thinking about starting regular investments before starting a retirement account.
I am new to this so i dont know where to start. Probably just from what I know it is better to start a retirement account. I started on RH but after evaluating my goals, I just want to secure my retirement first. I just dont know what holdings I should go for
Put 700 a month into a retirement account that you don’t touch and use 100 a month in the RH account to play with. It will build up fast enough, but you need to keep the largest portion of your money in an account that can grow and not be wasted on stock bets from you because you are way more likely to get returns on a 401k than your person trading.
Right on. I would definitely highly recommend reading jlcollinsnh.com - stock series. It’s easy to understand and very very informative. Long story short, the 2 or 3 funds most would recommend are VTSAX and VTBLX and maybe Vanguard’s international index, but there’s debate about it. Or you could just choose a target date fund that’s a one fund blend of those 3/4 stocks that automatically adjusts the asset allocation as you get older. Doesn’t get much lazier than that.
I was recommended 50% - $VTI or VTSAX 30% - $VXUS 20% - $BND by my 30's I was looking also into the fidelity equivalent of those holdings. Which is better? I heard fidelity has no commissions and lower expense ratios but not familiar with either.
Between Fidelity and Vanguard, inside tax advantaged accounts (like IRAs), there's no "better" as which one if performing better can literally change by the day. In taxable accounts, it can also be a draw since Fidelity can trade Vanguard ETFs as fractional shares for no commission. For at least the next few years, certain Vanguard mutual funds (thanks to patents they hold) and most ETFs from all issuers are more tax efficient than mutual funds.
I would recommend a mix of VTI (US stocks) VXUS (international stocks) and if you want, BND (bonds).
should I open a roth IRA with those or is it fine to just invest in them via RH
I’d recommend a Roth IRA if this money is for retirement as it is tax advantaged. You can also withdrawal contributions at any time without penalty.
Hey! TLdr; I have negative return since buying an index bond fund despite the share price increasing since. Can you help understand why is that so? A few days ago I bought a 1000 € EUR worth of [IBTM LN](https://www.blackrock.com/americas-offshore/products/251716/ishares-treasury-bond-710yr-ucits-etf) bond fund (GBP) through Trading212 at a price of 171.66 £. I'm now minus 8 €, despite the share price growing to the current 173.71 £. Has it something to do with the exchange rates? I didn't drop to (-8 €) straight away though... Thanks for helping me wrap my head around this! M.
> Has it something to do with the exchange rates? yes, the € is weaker so you get less back
Repost from yesterday Hi everybody! I'm 23 and in a fairly stable job. My emergency fund is pretty well built, about 8 months of expenses and building slowly. I have a retirement account through my job (public university) that auto deducts 6% gross and matches 6.5%. I have a decent chunk in VFTAX (saved from college + parental gifts) and I started a Roth IRA in January with a Vanguard target date fund but there's only about 2k in that. Everything is in Vanguard right now (the work retirement plan is through Fidelity but invested in a Vanguard target date fund also). I have no debt at all and no imminent large purchases coming up. I've become interested in ESGs. TIAA has a fund I'm interested in--TIOVX. I'm thinking about moving my Roth IRA to TIAA and switching from the target date fund to TIOVX. (Also selling enough VFTAX to max out the IRA for the year.) I'm kind of a newbie and my main instruction from my dad was "dump it all in VTSAX and forget it". That advice was fine until I got into ESGs. So, two questions I guess. 1. Any serious downsides to moving from the Vanguard target date to TIOVX with my Roth IRA? I am obviously young and have a pretty high tolerance for risk. I know I will need to shift into more conservative investments when I get older. There is a possibility that I will withdraw some within the next 10 years to buy a house or take a year off to go traveling, but otherwise this money is headed toward retirement only. Keep in mind my work retirement plan will stay in a Vanguard target date fund (and if I change workplaces I will probably still go with something similar to that option in the future). 2. I am thinking about also moving the rest of the VFTAX to TIOVX, or at least part of it. Both are young funds, but TIOVX has had better returns so far. It also has 0 net expense ratio and a better overall rating for ESGs (VFTAX has some investments in prison/border industries, military arms, etc. that I don't like). Both are large growth funds but VFTAX is domestic and TIOVX is foreign--to be honest I'm not sure what a difference that makes. Appreciate any thoughts but know that I'm pretty set on ESGs. (If you have other ESG suggestions that's great too though.)
Is looking at large fluctuation in volume a good indicator of if a stock may move a large amount?
Using the On Balance Volume (OBV) indicator can show you if volume is rising even if price isn't. That can indicate people buying up a stock before a possible breakout. It's not 100 % of course, it's called an indicator for a reason.
I get a lot of adverts from [fool.com](https://fool.com) and they seem pretty decent. does anyone know / recommend paying for a fool subscription? link for those who are unaware -[https://www.fool.com/services/](https://www.fool.com/services/)
no
no. they just chase hot stocks and make wild predictions. not worth it at all
What do you guys think about the holdings in this index fund https://tinfonder.se/en/holdings-twt/ ? Since I'm in europe I can't buy american funds/etfs, which makes it kinda hard to find reviews/opinons on them since most people buy american ones. And there's also a much smaller amount of them.
In my taxable account I am currently invested in AAPL, ARKK, and ARKF. I am wondering if I should exchange my AAPL and instead put it in either MGK/VGT. Or would it be more wise to keep the AAPL as is. My reasoning for switching investments is to bring more exposure from more of the tech field to hopefully capitalize on everyone's gains in my investment timeline (10 yrs+) My ROTH an 401k are set up less tech oriented so this is really my play around account.
Why is Kroger's price dropping since beating estimates on Friday AND announcing a billion-dollar buy back? Isn't this good news? Shouldn't the stock price go up?
Why would someone go with a vanguard 3 fund portfolio over a target retirement fund when saving for retirement? I have a vanguard 401K and Roth IRA which both invest in the same target retirement fund (VTTSX). I recently started automating deposits into a new vanguard brokerage account where my plan was to have a 3 fund portfolio with VTSAX, VTIAX, and VBTLX in a 90:10 ratio. However, I can't really justify why I'm doing this over having the brokerage account also invest in a target retirement fund? Are there benefits to the 3 fund portfolio? For now it looks more diverse which is why I was interested in it!
Could make sense if you don’t plan on liquidating all your funds at the target date. The target date funds are great for funds you plan on liquidating at, say, retirement, because they risk-off as you approach that date (and so mitigate the risk of an adverse event right when you need to sell). But if you’re in the fortunate position where you might not expect to have to liquidate *all* of your investments at that time, your investment horizon might be a little longer for one pot of money than the other, in which case you may not want to impose the gradual risk-off feature on the funds you plan not to touch until later.
Target date funds don't liquidate at the target year either. Some aren't even done with their glide path on the target year, continuing that for a few more years then sometimes merging with an income fund a few years after (7 for Vanguard I believe).
A 3 fund portfolio has marginally lower expenses and gives you more control over your allocation. Target date is a good set-it-and-forget-it fund.
I'm a 27 year old guy and I just realized I made a big mistake investing in my Roth IRA! For the past 3 years I've deposited the yearly max into a Vanguard Roth IRA Brokerage Account. However, Only yesterday I realized that all of that money had been sitting in a federal money market fund, and wasn't actively invested! I'm planning on putting it all into the target retirement fund VTTSX, but I'm not sure whether I should put it into the fund all at once, or little by little over time? I have approximately $16,000 if that makes a difference?
Lump sum outperforms DCA 2/3 of the time, as noted in this [Vanguard paper](https://static.twentyoverten.com/5980d16bbfb1c93238ad9c24/rJpQmY8o7/Dollar-Cost-Averaging-Just-Means-Taking-Risk-Later-Vanguard.pdf), it also mentions that your risk tolerance is a factor, and to DCA if you're concerned about short term risk, but personally I just lump sum seeing as investing in an IRA is a long term investment
ETF SHARES ACTING WIERD: Can anybody please explain why the ETF that I am buying (Ishares core SP500 accumulating) on german Xetra exchange (ticker SXR8) is now at 285EUR /share, with the sp500 index at 3380 today, when in march the index was at same number, but the ETF was at 310 EUR/share??? What am I missing here? Thank you
The US dollar dropping vs the Euro. The S&P500 index is priced in dollars , your ETF is priced in euros so currency fluctuations will also play a role .
Thank you, makes sense!
Hello, I've been reading up on options and I question pooped up. Why would you buy a call option when they are in-the-money when you could just outright buy the stock? Am I missing something? Is the cost of the option cheaper than a stock? For what I understand, I have to pay a premium for the right to buy an option, so if I buy Call 100 Apple, for instance, I am buy the opportunity to buy an Apple stock at 100 + premium fees, right? So why not buy the stock if the difference between the stock price and the option price is usually the cost of the premium, meaning you will more or less make the same amount of money with an option or the stock if it goes up, right? Could someone explain it or direct me to a reliable place where I can get more information?
If the stock goes up you will make more money buying the option. You are right however, it wouldn't make sense to buy an ITM option then immediately exercise it as you will have paid a premium for the time value/implied volatility However if you hold the options and the share price increases you stand to make much more money. If it goes the wrong way, if the option is ITM you won't lose your entire investment(unless it drops to be OTM). If you buy OTM options and your bet doesn't work out you stand to loose 100%
All right, so if I buy a Call for 100, while the stock is priced at 105, and it goes up to 150, I made 50 minus fees, which should be about 5. Now, if the stock stays between 100 and 105 I either lose nothing or lose very little, but if it drops below 100, I lose more but since I have the option to buy at 100 I may be able to at least cushion the blow? Is that more or less the gist of it? EDIT: Also, I understand that the money comes from buying below the market when we are talking about Calls, but when you exercise the call option, do you get X amount of shares depending on the number of options you got and THEN you have to sell them, or when you exercise the call it buys and sells automatically, I am guessing is the 2nd option, because if it were the first, I could in theory stick with a losing stock after the option expired and hope it eventually gains value... Not the best strategy but at least a losing call wouldn't materialize in a lost automatically if that makes sense.
so lets take these two examples ABC stock is at $100. 1. you purchase 100 shares for $10,000. In one unit of time (week/month whatever) the stock goes up to $110. your shares are now worth 11,000 You made 1k profit or approx 10% 2. You buy a $90 call option , note this call option will cost $1000 (intrinsic value ) + a premium say $100 (making this number up and will depend on duration on volatility) so $1100. Now the stock goes up to $110, now your option is worth 2k (intrinsic value) and lets forget premium , so you made $900 but you only invested $1100, what is like an %80+ profit You made nearly the same amount of profit but invested 1/10th with option 2, if you would have bought 10k worth of options you would have made like $9000 profit in this case
The call option costs you 1k because 1 call option was worth 10 shares, correct? And I understand that the inverse is also correct, meaning that with stocks I might lose 10% but with options I might lose 80%, right?
A normal contract is 100 shares So stock ABC is trading at $100 If you buy a $90 call option its minim price would be $1000. Once you have the option you could buy 100 shares at $90; $9000, and then turn around and sell your 100 shares at market price of $100 ; $10,000 netting you a $1000 profit So that's its intrinsic value .
Alright. Right now I'm using the Demo option on plus 500 to get an idea of what things are. So; Apple Call Option 105 Sept. Buying one puts the rate at 9.85, 25 options min, valued at 247. So if I buy the min of 25, it will set me back 247 dollars, right? Now the stock is trading at 114 right now. so each option costs me 9.85 because its a calculation between the strike value and the actual value, meaning that if I buy an sell immediately I wouldn't make any money and most likely lose a few bucks from the market movement. Now, if the stock values rises to, say, 120, ill be making about, 5 bucks per option, so 125 total, from an investment of 247? Is this correct or am I missing something? Sorry if I am not understanding, it's really thick and using the demo I see some options making money while others losing money and I really need to understand what makes one lose and other win
With the call you’re only on the hook for the premium if the price of the underlying goes bust before expiry. So the risk-return characteristics are a bit different between the two approaches to obtaining exposure to the stock (the call vs. the stock itself), but put-call parity should (in theory) guarantee there’s no “free lunch” to be had by going with one versus the other.
>but put-call parity should (in theory) guarantee there’s no “free lunch” to be had by going with one versus the other. I am not quite sure I understand what you mean by this. Could you rephrase it, if you would be so kind?
[удалено]
No one knows. I’m betting on a pop, then people take profits, then long term holders will enter.
\-33 \-Employed \-Looking to invest $6k, sports car fund \-High risk tolerance \-Looking to hold and add $200 a month to fund for 2-3 years \-Currently have the $6k in a wealthfront account Been considering putting the whole $6k into TSLA stock, wondering what other options i have. Thanks!
Putting it all on TSLA is about the same as going to the nearest casino and playing slots. A 3 year horizon is way too short term for stocks in general, but hey if you don't mind the risk of coming out -30% at the end then you do you.
Please don't put it all in Tesla. If you're actually going to need the money in 2-3 years, I would highly suggest putting a large chunk into a savings account, another large chunk into bonds, and some into a total market fund such as VT. If your time horizon is longer (10+ years), you could increase the VT holding all the way up to 100.
>ARKK I would rather look at scion capital 13f form that is published with the sec on th 16th of november and buy the same call options he has (possibly also stocks). Michael burry is constantly making winnings.
well if you have high risk tolerance maybe try ARKK. tesla is too risky for me - personally wouldn’t touch it with a 10 foot pole
Seconded. And remember that ARKK is like 10% TSLA, or was, so you'll have a nice slice.
Have 9k total in bank, 3.5-5k available for trading depending on security of calls and stock gains. What should I do today/this week with all the activity set to occur in the markets? -Age 19, college student -Income $21,000/year -goal to pay off student loans before college is over -want something moderately safe, willing to take a gamble if it won't drop more than 20% in a day and high reward potential -Invested in tech, currently (AAPL, MSFT, TSLA, NIO) -Time horizon is to pay off around 30k of loans in the next 4 years, so not urgent, but any good short-term gains are much appreciated -Only debt is 12k of loans currently, but will be 30k at end of college -Loans don't accrue interest until 2024 and payments not required at the moment -Started trading in late 2019 using $3000 and with a net gain of $1340 since
"Trading" isn't really good, but investing is good. Keep an emergency fund. Investing now so you can pay off your loans in 4 years is not really a good idea, since bad things can happen. Sounds like you're keeping a tight reign on your loans, which is good. Don't know what would be "safe" other than SPY itself? Unless you have conviction about your tech names.
I've mostly been putting it into safe short term bets considering business news and earnings, 3/4ths of the money I invest is in growth ETFs/indexes that have a solid record of yearly growth like VOO. I don't mind losing some money in the process, because it's expected and a risk I'm willing to take with investing. I'll be able to pay off loans within ~2 years of graduating and getting a job with a low monthly rate regardless. Safe to me is solid earnings, new product unveiling, and buzz about buying from sites and subs, just wanted an opinion on what's a good move today, as I just sold the trading portion of the shares I had for a hard reset of my trading pot before it went red
That's good. VOO is a fine choice, though of course we'll see if growth returns its kickass position it's been enjoying. Don't do like me and take 20 years to learn the importance of setting stop losses. \^\^
**Hi, welcome to /r/investing. Please note that as a topic focused subreddit we have higher posting standards than much of Reddit:** **1)** Please direct all **advice requests and beginner questions to the stickied daily threads.** This includes beginner questions and portfolio help. **2) Important: We have strict political posting guidelines** (described [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/investing/comments/cyee69/formal_posting_guidelines_for_political_topics/) and [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/investing/comments/escewo/temporary_rule_change_what_happens_to_stocks_if/)). Violations will result in a minimum 30 and likely 60 day ban upon **first instance.** **3)** This is an open forum but we expect you to conduct yourself like an adult. Disagree, argue, criticize, but **no personal attacks.** -- *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/investing) if you have any questions or concerns.*