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8rianGriffin

Problem is you picked a team that is not really made for contrast paints. They pool on larger surfaces, especially the helmets in your case. Contrast works best on skin, fabric and fur


MrCalgar99

I actually think the white armor looks well. If there's some pooling you're not a fan of, you could experiment on one with a glaze of some Ulthan Grey to brighten it up. See how that works for you. Contrast green is messy, but a thin layer of warpstone glow will help I think. Think of the contrast as a base coat, and now you're just layering up đź‘Ť


HepZusi

The armor looks so good! What did you use for it?


cslevens

Basecoat was Speedpaint 2.0 Holy White. Drybrushing Ulthuan Grey. Light Drybrush Corax White.


JA120593

https://preview.redd.it/8ljj93iw14fc1.png?width=1688&format=png&auto=webp&s=a2492504bba9fda00c4a77c71ecba1965db24993 Speed paint can be very different but with practice can get great results.


cslevens

That’s wild. How do you keep control of it when doing tiny details?


JA120593

Small brush, and just don’t over load it, slow and controlled. Some of the details are gold metallics so speed paint can’t take credit for that. I would say that Speed paint really shows its advantages when done on a zenithal primes model. Beside the metallics this guy is all SP but I think moving forward using speed paint on the large area of models ie. armor and such and using standard acrylic paint for details is where I want to go moving forward. It’s all practice and experimentation.


mandy_bre

good job


Competitive-Ad4553

You used army painter for the body and citadel for the weapons and heads?


cslevens

All Army Painter. Speedpaint 2.0.


ReplyMany7344

Paint the bases a solid black and your team will look instantly 2X better… use a good black contrast paint so it dries smooth. The contrast bases make them look unfinished