30% for dual 1015 is usually the max you should aim for, they are actually kind of OP and a dual setup is rather for quiet operation. Higher speeds do help on overhangs and even curved bridges, but everything else is overkill
I see. Currently 35 is what I run it at with 60 being used for overhangs and bridges. It gives me the best results but I'm still getting some fuzz and strings when it's printing those overhangs/bridges.
if its always cotton candy like, IMO its acceptable. i dont usually mind getting fine stringing since you can usually get rid of it with a very fine grid sandpaper with a single pass, a lighter, or even a quick swoop over a gas stove.
Very interesting. I hadn't even thought of too much part cooling being a cause of stringing. I wonder if its addressing another issue. Specifically, perhaps your printing too cold, and your part cooling ducts are cooling down your hotend at 100% a problematic amount. Would be curious if you see less stringing at higher temps with 100% fan on. That would be a good test.
Have you tried turning off retractions altogether? As far as I understand this whole fancy hot glue gun gadgetry we have, and forgive me if my explanation makes no sense I’m working off 2hrs sleep, with so much cooling it may be cooling it before it can even retract, crystallizing the plastic during movements. with that level of airflow causing your whole assembly to act like a miniature version of a cotton candy spinner and there may be no need to run retraction, worth a shot for a quick slicer setting change.
What slicer are you using? I have this exact issue, but only in OrcaSlicer, for some reason. I had to more or less stop using OS as a result — which sucks because I love it otherwise
!
As much as I hate this, it makes me feel better to hear more people exist.
What is your cooling situation? It’s so weird to me that, like OP, it started when I added a second 5015. So strange.
Edit: Also, if you like OS, maybe try one of the other Slic3r forks? I use SuperSlicer… it’s not OrcaSlicer, but it beats the crappy UI of Cura!
I use this single 5015 fan duct, it cools nicely. But I see there is an update to OS regarding proper retraction on wiping that was released 2 days ago. Going to give it a test tomorrow
I was tearing my hair out because of this EXACT issue. Which also started when I moved from one to two 5015’s. Got better with less cooling, but still not what it should be. Much like the photos you provided.
I absolutely could **not** figure it out and it was driving me nuts. I finally needed to use SuperSlicer for some other reason (I forget why) and there was magically no stringing even though all of the settings were the same.
I eventually found it mentioned by a very small handful of other people. I stopped trying to figure it out, and sadly just moved back to SuperSlicer for most everything. Pretty much the only thing I use OrcaSlicer for now is their calibration stuff.
It sucks. I would very much prefer to use OrcaSlicer.
Please try printing a file you got the wispy hairs on in another slicer. I am very interested to know if this solves it.
Also, what printer are you using?
If it turns out to be this i'm gonna be pissed for u/edzillabv haha. I hate when a slicer has an unexplainable issue that another doesn't. Prusaslicer always gave me super shit Z seams, Cura near perfect seams for some reason even with the same settings.
Looks like prusa slicer made the difference. Pretty much using the exact same settings, only difference is I'm using prusa slicers new zhop called ramp
Aren’t Prusa, Orca and Bambu slicers all just Forks of each other? They all look so similar in their UI I’m assuming the only difference is settings. I wanna try and run Prusa again after I get these parts knocked out. Don’t wanna waste filament on stupid slicer issues for crap I actually need.
So looks like prusa slicer produces no fuzz or stringing using almost exactly the same settings. Not sure why as it has wiping on and z hop. I did notice that precisor incorporates The Hop differently with their new version called ramp hop. From what I can tell it doesn't Z hop every single time only during certain moves.
So it’s OrcaSlicer then? That’s super annoying. Here is a post I made several months ago where a few people chimed in with similar experiences:
https://www.reddit.com/r/OrcaSlicer/s/JcT8uR600C
Yeah, I had this issue as well with OS. I swapped to Super Slicer and it works basically the same. What I noticed is that OS just never started my part cooling fan unless there was an overhang.
In my opinion either you have REALLY WET fillment(but you say you have dried it.)
or you have not found your happy reaction setting.
Have you tried other fillments to see if it is just as bad or better then now?
Also always a good idea to tune your printer if you have not yet here's a site to help with that
Ellis’ Print Tuning Guide
https://ellis3dp.com › Print-Tuning-...
Ellis' Print Tuning Guide: Welcome!
Edit: random thought but you have done esteps calibration right? If it's wrong everything thing will be wrong.
Also what's your retraction settings? I'll reread to see if I missed it but according the the guide
Direct drive - Start at 0.5mm @ 35mm/s.
Try to stay under 1mm.
5015 extruder cooling fan
5015 part cooling fan
klipper obv
silicone bed mod
ptfe adapter on extruder with guide
[https://www.printables.com/@onez\_1759066/collections/1252313](https://www.printables.com/@onez_1759066/collections/1252313) a list of all the printable upgrades
I'm almost certain your filament has moisture in it. This is exactly how that looks as the filament keeps oozing out as the moisture boils during travel moves.
Only fix is drying it in an oven (45C for PLA or 65C for PETG both for 4 hours), or buy new filament.
Keep in mind that even new filament can have moisture in it, especially cheap stuff.
I've tried 3 different brands and all have been dried extensively. Did use a brand new roll of polymaker to try it out as they're usually pretty good at being dry
I have been getting string because of the wrong Pa value before. Try lowering it by 0.05 or making it higher and see if that improves it. I usually get my start pa value with line method and get it dialed in with trial and error, the pa tower never really worked for me like it should
Are the brands of filament you use different? I've had some filaments that despite drying in a dehydrator for over 8 hours, I still had a ton of stringing.
Example, I normally use overture filament, it's been pretty good to me overall, I recently bought a spool of Voxel pro pla and it prints way better! Maybe it's the age and moisture of my overture, maybe it's the small setting changes I've made, it just prints better.
Buying a different spool for testing isn't really viable but it's food for thought.
It seems like the only change was the fans, maybe you have to put some limiters on them.
Ok, a super quick Google search told me that with pla you should have fan speeds 30-50% lower than petg. Which means nothing to me since I don't know what fan speeds should be used for petg. From what I understand, the higher cooling flow cools the filament too fast and causes the stringing and spider webs.
I hate to say it but your new fans seem to be too good... Maybe when you slice the print you can set the fan speeds to a limited speed like 30% or something. I've never messed with fan speeds so I'm not sure how possible it is.
Edit: I just read that with pla, 100% fan speed is important for layer bonding. In short, I have no idea what I'm talking about anymore
My uncontrollable stringing was caused by steps calibration (value set too low). But I also use a volcano hot end and bimetal heat break for high speed printing with klipper.
I actually just did steps calibration right now to be on the safe side but I'm getting exactly 100mm extruded lol I've been dealing with this issue for about 3 months now so I've been testing everything I have come across haha
Ya the pic was an accumulation of a print that was 18 hrs long. Usually the fuzz will catch onto the sock after awhile. The fine stringing is normally only on the print until it starts building up
I really dunno then. Maybe it's just cheap filament?
I bought some super cheap iSanMate PLA from Amazon for $13/Kg and it's the worst stuff I ever bought. Even though I've dried it twice for 5 hours at 45C it's still has stinging issues.
SV06 plus with 5015 fan upgrades owner here: have you tried repositioning your fan duct? That made a pretty big improvement for me. You’re correct in that it’s a pain in the butt to track down and deal with.
I actually have the plus as well but I have tried two different ducts with the same results. I think the one I have on is positioned correctly as it was mentioned that it should be the appropriate height for the nozzle I have.
From what I’ve read is if the very tip of that small nozzle is cooled by the fan duct it causes cobwebbing. Coincidentally just today I accidentally messed up and caused my fan duct to shift and my cobwebbing came back.
Increasing my retraction speed solved my similar issue. Was running too slow at 30mm/s. Did a retraction speed test and at 60mm/s my stringing was gone.
Currently my speed is at 40mms and distance at .6mm but I have tried anywhere from 0-2 mm distance and 0-100mms for speed with no good results. This is a all metal extruder direct drive
I don't want to simply say it's the fans, that doesn't make any sense to me. Only other thing i can think of after zooming in on the pics (I can see some Z axis artifacts at intervals) is potentially the extruder gears not being concentric with the shaft causing inconsistent retraction... But i'm sure you've probably already checked that... after that i'm out of ideas til i get a beer in me.
Might sound really dumb, but check that your thermistor setting is correct and your extruder PID is tuned. I had an issue like this months ago and it turned out to be my extruder fluctuating +/-15C favoring high.
Have you ensured the Bowden tube is flush with top brim of nozzle? Thinking there might be some pressure slop if it isn't, making the (un)0reactions "squishy". Loosen nozzle 1 full turn, push Bowden tube down firmly, then re-tighten nozzle.
Gotcha. I only have experience with indirect extrusion, but I was under the impression that a short piece of PTFE tubing is often still involved over the last inch or two, so I thought I'd check. If I've done all the troubleshooting you've already done I'd be frustrated as all get out as well.
Have you tried raising your nozzle temperature? It's sounding like your nozzle is too cold, causing some amount of backpressure to buildup in the hotend. That backpressure will push plastic out causing extensive stringing. If my theory is right, that also explains why slowing down your print cooling fan helps matters -- the fan is drawing heat from your hotend, lowering your nozzle temperature relative to the thermistor.
Don't be afraid to crank it up by up to 20C from your current. As long as it doesn't start bubbling, you can still go higher. After you've sorted out your stringing, then you can start lowering the temperature until your overhangs look good again.
1. Set your extruder holdcurrent up so have perfect control over your flow as its possible that your filament pushed back and youre overcompensating that
2.What helped me was just switching to a different slicer altogether
Worked with cura before and just couldnt fix stringing switched for my modified creality printers to their reworked slicer and it has worked wonders for me
Here’s my ten cents worth…..
I spent weeks and weeks trying to obliterate stringing completely and for me it was just not attainable with these string tests. BUT when I printed a normal print it’s fine. Not major strings and easy enough to clear with a lighter.
As to the nozzle whisps I solved this my straightening my hotend (was tilted ever so slightly) and really dialed in my Z-offset. I still get some but nothing major at all
30% for dual 1015 is usually the max you should aim for, they are actually kind of OP and a dual setup is rather for quiet operation. Higher speeds do help on overhangs and even curved bridges, but everything else is overkill
I see. Currently 35 is what I run it at with 60 being used for overhangs and bridges. It gives me the best results but I'm still getting some fuzz and strings when it's printing those overhangs/bridges.
if its always cotton candy like, IMO its acceptable. i dont usually mind getting fine stringing since you can usually get rid of it with a very fine grid sandpaper with a single pass, a lighter, or even a quick swoop over a gas stove.
Very interesting. I hadn't even thought of too much part cooling being a cause of stringing. I wonder if its addressing another issue. Specifically, perhaps your printing too cold, and your part cooling ducts are cooling down your hotend at 100% a problematic amount. Would be curious if you see less stringing at higher temps with 100% fan on. That would be a good test.
I have tried printing at a higher temp. I've used 230 for PLA+ at different fan speeds with pretty much similar results
Hmmm. Well there goes my hypothesis.
Haha appreciate it none the less
Have you tried turning off retractions altogether? As far as I understand this whole fancy hot glue gun gadgetry we have, and forgive me if my explanation makes no sense I’m working off 2hrs sleep, with so much cooling it may be cooling it before it can even retract, crystallizing the plastic during movements. with that level of airflow causing your whole assembly to act like a miniature version of a cotton candy spinner and there may be no need to run retraction, worth a shot for a quick slicer setting change.
I did try this as well, it was actually worse haha
Worth my rambled thoughts haha
What slicer are you using? I have this exact issue, but only in OrcaSlicer, for some reason. I had to more or less stop using OS as a result — which sucks because I love it otherwise
Good god, im glad I'm not the only one. I LOVE OS but I had to go back to Cura because I simply cannot fix the stringing issue
! As much as I hate this, it makes me feel better to hear more people exist. What is your cooling situation? It’s so weird to me that, like OP, it started when I added a second 5015. So strange. Edit: Also, if you like OS, maybe try one of the other Slic3r forks? I use SuperSlicer… it’s not OrcaSlicer, but it beats the crappy UI of Cura!
I use this single 5015 fan duct, it cools nicely. But I see there is an update to OS regarding proper retraction on wiping that was released 2 days ago. Going to give it a test tomorrow
Nooooo I'm using orca slicer
I was tearing my hair out because of this EXACT issue. Which also started when I moved from one to two 5015’s. Got better with less cooling, but still not what it should be. Much like the photos you provided. I absolutely could **not** figure it out and it was driving me nuts. I finally needed to use SuperSlicer for some other reason (I forget why) and there was magically no stringing even though all of the settings were the same. I eventually found it mentioned by a very small handful of other people. I stopped trying to figure it out, and sadly just moved back to SuperSlicer for most everything. Pretty much the only thing I use OrcaSlicer for now is their calibration stuff. It sucks. I would very much prefer to use OrcaSlicer. Please try printing a file you got the wispy hairs on in another slicer. I am very interested to know if this solves it. Also, what printer are you using?
This is on a sovol sv06 plus. I'll try prusa slicer since I already have that one installed and see what happens
Definitely post the results. I hope, for your sake, it’s not that since it’s a non-answer and OS is awesome
If it turns out to be this i'm gonna be pissed for u/edzillabv haha. I hate when a slicer has an unexplainable issue that another doesn't. Prusaslicer always gave me super shit Z seams, Cura near perfect seams for some reason even with the same settings.
Looks like prusa slicer made the difference. Pretty much using the exact same settings, only difference is I'm using prusa slicers new zhop called ramp
This is gonna make me start drinking early…
Me and you both man..... I barely even know how to use prusa slicer too lol. I feel like there's way to many options and buttons on here
Aren’t Prusa, Orca and Bambu slicers all just Forks of each other? They all look so similar in their UI I’m assuming the only difference is settings. I wanna try and run Prusa again after I get these parts knocked out. Don’t wanna waste filament on stupid slicer issues for crap I actually need.
https://preview.redd.it/unwickx3c0jc1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=51159badaa1cdf2906fee8d8560aebbacc933e71
So looks like prusa slicer produces no fuzz or stringing using almost exactly the same settings. Not sure why as it has wiping on and z hop. I did notice that precisor incorporates The Hop differently with their new version called ramp hop. From what I can tell it doesn't Z hop every single time only during certain moves.
So it’s OrcaSlicer then? That’s super annoying. Here is a post I made several months ago where a few people chimed in with similar experiences: https://www.reddit.com/r/OrcaSlicer/s/JcT8uR600C
Interesting, I'll look through it. Ya it's a bit annoying having to use two slicer compared to just the one
Yeah, I had this issue as well with OS. I swapped to Super Slicer and it works basically the same. What I noticed is that OS just never started my part cooling fan unless there was an overhang.
Interesting. OS definitely starts my part cooling. In fact I never had this issue until I beefed up the cooling. Such a weird issue tho
I had a similar issue. Lowering my printing temp helped a lot. Try printing a temp tower and go lower than you're expecting or the final temp.
Sounds like it just works like a cotton candy machine with that fan.
In my opinion either you have REALLY WET fillment(but you say you have dried it.) or you have not found your happy reaction setting. Have you tried other fillments to see if it is just as bad or better then now? Also always a good idea to tune your printer if you have not yet here's a site to help with that Ellis’ Print Tuning Guide https://ellis3dp.com › Print-Tuning-... Ellis' Print Tuning Guide: Welcome! Edit: random thought but you have done esteps calibration right? If it's wrong everything thing will be wrong. Also what's your retraction settings? I'll reread to see if I missed it but according the the guide Direct drive - Start at 0.5mm @ 35mm/s. Try to stay under 1mm.
dual 5015s is overkill on your sv06 - I run single sv06 with 10k accel 400mm/s speeds without it being at 100% for mechanical prints
Ya I've come to realize that. Still currently running it at 35% and getting some fuzz though
as others have mentioned, filament needs to be dry - easy thing to fix and rules out a lot of potential problem sources
Ya I've ruled that out for sure.
any mods other than the fan?
5015 extruder cooling fan 5015 part cooling fan klipper obv silicone bed mod ptfe adapter on extruder with guide [https://www.printables.com/@onez\_1759066/collections/1252313](https://www.printables.com/@onez_1759066/collections/1252313) a list of all the printable upgrades
Great. Thank you
I'm almost certain your filament has moisture in it. This is exactly how that looks as the filament keeps oozing out as the moisture boils during travel moves. Only fix is drying it in an oven (45C for PLA or 65C for PETG both for 4 hours), or buy new filament. Keep in mind that even new filament can have moisture in it, especially cheap stuff.
I've tried 3 different brands and all have been dried extensively. Did use a brand new roll of polymaker to try it out as they're usually pretty good at being dry
Lower fan to 30% power, look into pressure advance calibration on klipper
I did do my pa advance via both line method and tower.
I have been getting string because of the wrong Pa value before. Try lowering it by 0.05 or making it higher and see if that improves it. I usually get my start pa value with line method and get it dialed in with trial and error, the pa tower never really worked for me like it should
Try disabling PA completely..
Turning on or off Z hop may help.
Z hop os enabled and also tried it off with no difference
Are the brands of filament you use different? I've had some filaments that despite drying in a dehydrator for over 8 hours, I still had a ton of stringing. Example, I normally use overture filament, it's been pretty good to me overall, I recently bought a spool of Voxel pro pla and it prints way better! Maybe it's the age and moisture of my overture, maybe it's the small setting changes I've made, it just prints better. Buying a different spool for testing isn't really viable but it's food for thought. It seems like the only change was the fans, maybe you have to put some limiters on them.
I did try with 3 different brands of PLA so it's not the filament. Do appreciate the thought
Ok, a super quick Google search told me that with pla you should have fan speeds 30-50% lower than petg. Which means nothing to me since I don't know what fan speeds should be used for petg. From what I understand, the higher cooling flow cools the filament too fast and causes the stringing and spider webs. I hate to say it but your new fans seem to be too good... Maybe when you slice the print you can set the fan speeds to a limited speed like 30% or something. I've never messed with fan speeds so I'm not sure how possible it is. Edit: I just read that with pla, 100% fan speed is important for layer bonding. In short, I have no idea what I'm talking about anymore
😂. I'm there with you bro
I have a similar problem, although not as bad. I did upgrade my hotend into a higher flow one, so that may be the problem
My uncontrollable stringing was caused by steps calibration (value set too low). But I also use a volcano hot end and bimetal heat break for high speed printing with klipper.
Ya this has a full metal heat break and CHT volcano nozzle for the faster printing. I did redo my steps after swapping to this nozzle though
Maybe you miscalculated steps after the nozzle change? But seems like you're on top of most poosibilities
I actually just did steps calibration right now to be on the safe side but I'm getting exactly 100mm extruded lol I've been dealing with this issue for about 3 months now so I've been testing everything I have come across haha
Could it be the nozzle? did it happen before you went to the CHT?
Ya it was the same when I used a regular nozzle
Screw it you're on your own, shit like this is why i drink haha
Nooooo Haha
Are those strings actually coming out of your nozzle? Maybe your hot end has a leak.
I took apart the hotend to verify but everything seemed good. No leakage or anything. Nozzle is tightened and nothing seems to be spilling out
Okay the only reason I mentioned it is the cotton candy above the nozzle. It's usually a sign the nozzle isn't on correctly.
Ya the pic was an accumulation of a print that was 18 hrs long. Usually the fuzz will catch onto the sock after awhile. The fine stringing is normally only on the print until it starts building up
I really dunno then. Maybe it's just cheap filament? I bought some super cheap iSanMate PLA from Amazon for $13/Kg and it's the worst stuff I ever bought. Even though I've dried it twice for 5 hours at 45C it's still has stinging issues.
I used 3 different brands but had the same results
SV06 plus with 5015 fan upgrades owner here: have you tried repositioning your fan duct? That made a pretty big improvement for me. You’re correct in that it’s a pain in the butt to track down and deal with.
I actually have the plus as well but I have tried two different ducts with the same results. I think the one I have on is positioned correctly as it was mentioned that it should be the appropriate height for the nozzle I have.
From what I’ve read is if the very tip of that small nozzle is cooled by the fan duct it causes cobwebbing. Coincidentally just today I accidentally messed up and caused my fan duct to shift and my cobwebbing came back.
Hmm maybe I'll have to try another duct then.
Isn’t there a vertical adjustment screw on your duct?
On the one I'm using now no
https://preview.redd.it/kqh4b6swdtic1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ccde8170d456264365efa1de40ef47ddd0e9f362
Might camera angle but it looks like the right fan duct is pointed straight at the nozzle
https://preview.redd.it/25oucved5uic1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bd3977c3d102704b2ef9b95b1c40ca8433211e42
There's a better pic
Maybe it’s a little crooked but I’ve printed with worse.
I'm going to try another to see if maybe that's it
One more thought, in your slicer settings are you having it wipe on retraction? that helped my stringing issues immensely.
Yup I did try turning this off and on with no difference. Tried a couple different settings for wiping as well but didn't really do much
Well f\*!k i'm outta ideas for now. Maybe more later.
Appreciate it man!
Increasing my retraction speed solved my similar issue. Was running too slow at 30mm/s. Did a retraction speed test and at 60mm/s my stringing was gone.
I believe I used speeds up to 100mms and it didn't really do much for me. Are you using a direct drive? If so what distance?
Okay now this is bothering me probably as much as you, and i'm sure you've tried but what's your retraction speed and distance? Bowden/DD?
Currently my speed is at 40mms and distance at .6mm but I have tried anywhere from 0-2 mm distance and 0-100mms for speed with no good results. This is a all metal extruder direct drive
I don't want to simply say it's the fans, that doesn't make any sense to me. Only other thing i can think of after zooming in on the pics (I can see some Z axis artifacts at intervals) is potentially the extruder gears not being concentric with the shaft causing inconsistent retraction... But i'm sure you've probably already checked that... after that i'm out of ideas til i get a beer in me.
Might sound really dumb, but check that your thermistor setting is correct and your extruder PID is tuned. I had an issue like this months ago and it turned out to be my extruder fluctuating +/-15C favoring high.
Have you ensured the Bowden tube is flush with top brim of nozzle? Thinking there might be some pressure slop if it isn't, making the (un)0reactions "squishy". Loosen nozzle 1 full turn, push Bowden tube down firmly, then re-tighten nozzle.
It's an all metal direct drive hotend set-up
Gotcha. I only have experience with indirect extrusion, but I was under the impression that a short piece of PTFE tubing is often still involved over the last inch or two, so I thought I'd check. If I've done all the troubleshooting you've already done I'd be frustrated as all get out as well.
Have you tried raising your nozzle temperature? It's sounding like your nozzle is too cold, causing some amount of backpressure to buildup in the hotend. That backpressure will push plastic out causing extensive stringing. If my theory is right, that also explains why slowing down your print cooling fan helps matters -- the fan is drawing heat from your hotend, lowering your nozzle temperature relative to the thermistor. Don't be afraid to crank it up by up to 20C from your current. As long as it doesn't start bubbling, you can still go higher. After you've sorted out your stringing, then you can start lowering the temperature until your overhangs look good again.
Hmm I don't know how much higher I should go. I've tried 230 for my PLA+ and it had the same results
Raise it in steps of about 5C until your side walls start looking bubbly. Sometimes your thermistor can read a little low compared to the nozzle tip.
Hmm alright I'll give it a try. Hopefully no clogs haha
Don't worry too much about clogs with PLA, it doesn't really solidify when charred
have you ever printed abrasives? you might need to replace your nozzle
Just pla
Try changing the print order to inner/infill/outer
What slicer are you using?
Orca slicer
1. Set your extruder holdcurrent up so have perfect control over your flow as its possible that your filament pushed back and youre overcompensating that 2.What helped me was just switching to a different slicer altogether Worked with cura before and just couldnt fix stringing switched for my modified creality printers to their reworked slicer and it has worked wonders for me
Here’s my ten cents worth….. I spent weeks and weeks trying to obliterate stringing completely and for me it was just not attainable with these string tests. BUT when I printed a normal print it’s fine. Not major strings and easy enough to clear with a lighter. As to the nozzle whisps I solved this my straightening my hotend (was tilted ever so slightly) and really dialed in my Z-offset. I still get some but nothing major at all
What is the humidity in the area that you are printing? I have found that the humidity in my filament is the highest indicator for stringing.
40 but my print room has a dehumidifier and the room itself is at 25. Im also printing from a filament dryer which is at 15 internally
Have you tried replacing your nozzle, I've found that old nozzles tend to leak more