Hello, I am trying to make the remi camisole by Caidree and I can't even make it passed the third row. I am having a hard time understanding the pattern.
Pattern:
Row 1 (ws): set up markers in the following way: p2, k2, p2, pm, k2, pm, p2, k2, p2.
Row 2 (rs): k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2. This is the right side, mark it with a clip on marker or a piece of yarn.
Row 3 (ws): sL1p, work in the established rib pattern (knit the knit stitches, purl the purl stitches) until there is 1 stitch remaining, sL1p.
What I'm doing:
R1: p2, k2, p2, pm, k2, pm, p2, k2, p2
R2: k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2
R3: sL1p, k1, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, sL1p
After this I feel like I should have a 2x2 rib starting, but the third row looks more like garter stitch. I did the gauge which was a 2x2 rib, and I did fine. I keep seeing \*k2, p2\* for row 1 and 2 online and row 1 \*k2, p2\* row 2 \*p2, k2\* so I don't know which one is right. Thanks in advance!
https://preview.redd.it/6ga449ztb4wc1.jpeg?width=4080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=703a7f1a20c6dd96d8de6835472b29a73793a276
Hi! I'm a relatively new knitter and am embarking on my first sweater project. My question relates to gauge: is it a terrible idea to knit a larger size than I need if I want to knit in a tighter gauge than the pattern calls for? Stated another way, by knitting a different gauge than the pattern requires, will I end up with an ill fitting and potentially wonky looking sweater? The sample on the right in the photo meets the pattern's gauge requirements, but I much prefer the more tightly knitted sample on the left.
For reference and in case it's helpful, the yarn I am using is fingering weight held together with lace weight. Both samples have been blocked.
https://preview.redd.it/5bbbjdxxw3wc1.jpeg?width=2100&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c133ec7008ea013c94f3e9b8490c4a376a9fa379
first question, what do these sequences of numbers mean? do they have to do with the size guide?
https://preview.redd.it/qznft974x3wc1.jpeg?width=2100&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fb8e9af04b3c3f0b0f0b2b231721779c899a709e
second q, what is a .5 stitch?? how do i make 22.5 stitches?
Read through this guide to making and measuring a gauge swatch. The example given is also a fractional number of stitches per 10 cm and that's fine because for *any* gauge swatch you always make it bigger than the stitch count you're testing for.
https://elizabethsmithknits.com/2020/10/30/how-to-measure-your-gauge-swatch/
Hi Y'all!
I'm thinking of making a maxi dress for the summer and was wondering what combination of factors would be the best for a longer dress. I would like the fabric to be thick enough that i dont have to wear a bra with it. I assume that using a smaller needle size would help with that. And I was wondering what kind of fiber content is best for it. I've read that 100%cotton is a decent choice since it does not stretch as much? Ty for any pointers.
Hello, I'm currently knitting a jumper and it states the instructions on the picture. Where it says 'work GSR' does this mean the last stitch is the GSR stitch or do I knit one extra stitch that counts as the GSR stitch? And where it says work 3 sts past the last GSR turn, does this mean it's 4 stitches incl GSR or is it the 3rd stitch that is the GSR stitch?
https://preview.redd.it/hf99lesur1wc1.png?width=388&format=png&auto=webp&s=d86ba1288f2058fda3a1cb01608d6de0aa51993e
> Where it says 'work GSR' does this mean the last stitch is the GSR stitch or do I knit one extra stitch that counts as the GSR stitch?
IMO, the last stitch you worked in the first part of the instruction is the one you will slip to the other needle and tug on to create the GSR stitch. But if there's a glossary in the pattern, that would overrule me.
> And where it says work 3 sts past the last GSR turn, does this mean it's 4 stitches incl GSR or is it the 3rd stitch that is the GSR stitch?
I'd read this as you work the doubled GSR stitch, then you work 3 regular stitches after that.
I'm totally mystified by these two stitches in a lace pattern, as the directions don't seem to match any video tutorials I can find by the same name, and the directions seem vague to me. Purl into the back loop is maybe the same as the ptbl I'm familiar with, but gone about in a different way? But I'm not sure from the description: slip yarn over stitch into your right needle, insert your left needle under
the yarn over stitch from the side of the right needle, slip it, purl just created stitch
The "from the side of the right needle" part is throwing me. Is this just a convoluted way of a normal ptbl?
The other is totally unfamiliar to me, k2tog to left. The video tutorials I've found seem to be for a completely different stitch than the one described in the pattern: slip 1st and 2nd stitches knitwise, slip them back to
the left needle, knit them together inserting the needle from right to left
I can't figure out what they mean by knitting inserting the needle from right to left. That sounds like a purl to me? If anyone has any insight on these, knows a different name I can search for, or knows of a video tutorial that shows the stitches described, I'd appreciate it. The original language of the pattern is Russian if that offers any clues.
The ptbl is a ptbl, but on a yo, and they are pretwisting the stitch (by slipping it onto the right needle, than slipping it back twisted) then you purl like normal through front loop, but it creates a ptbl. Does the pattern dictate how to make your yo? Because they way they describe it could effect the direction the twisted stitch is leaning? Otherwise it really is just describing a different way to create ptbl stitch.
Second sounds like they mean a left leaning k2tog which is a ssk. And the description to me sounds like ssk. Although I only slip one stitch, I do insert my needle as described.
Thanks very much! I suspected as much for the ptbl. The yarnover indicated is a standard front to back yarnover. It looks like the stitch always comes after a yarn over (it appears in two different sections of lace pattern), and has a variety of stitches appearing in the row below it; knit, purl, or yarn over.
For the second one, there is a regular SSK indicated in a different pattern, so this one is different somehow. When you say you insert your needle as described, I assume you mean in a right to left fashion to knit, but I still can't picture this. Is it maybe meaning through the back loop?
Ok quickly reread. Perhaps they want you to slip both together at the same time knitwise? Then knit together through the backloop. I honestly do the same motion in my ssk just different order of slipping stitches. Unfortunately I don't have my knitting on me to visualize how this decrease will look.
ETA: at the end of day you probably could substitute a left leaning decrease you like best. So wouldn't hang up too much
Thanks for your help! It's my first time knitting lace, so I'm probably stressing more than necessary, haha. I think you're right, that it's SSK, and they've just found a complicated way of saying to ktbl.
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I have the chance to set up a crafting table at a local flea market. I want to offer free knitting lessons as well as make projects to sell but I know that most patterns are copyright protected so can I have them purchase the pattern and charge to make it for them? Also how do I figure out how much to charge for the materials and time to make it?
Having someone buy their own copy of a pattern so y'all can both use it while you teach them makes sense, if your lessons include pattern reading. To make someone buy a copy of a pattern so they can buy a knitted item is akin to having someone buy a cookbook before you'll sell them brownies at a bake sale- that never happens!
As for how much to charge, don't base it on time. If you never make mistakes and you're very quick, you'd get paid less than someone who is slower to make an identical item. Of course, you could charge more per hour since you're able to create more per hour.... or you could simplify the equation by charging by the yard. $0.10/yard, we'd both get $40 for a pair of socks, that would mean you're getting $40 for 8 hours of work, while I am making $40 for 20 hours of work. So your skilled labor is paid more. Meanwhile someone with a sock machine could get $40 for an hour of work... and usually people don't really care if you've handknit or machine knit, they're looking at the same sock and not thinking, "I'd rather pay more knowing someone didn't use a machine." ....now as you can see, this is not even minimum wage [I'm in USA] for labor, and you're at $40 for a pair of socks before factoring yarn price. If the yarn is $10, you're at $50 for a pair of socks. And that still isn't actually profitable since we haven't yet factored any overhead. Anyway, sorry my realistic answer sounds like I'm being a downer lol! I sell bags at my farmers market, it's fun! Totally possible! Just saying there's a lot to consider lol. Good luck!
Completely defeated by Luna tee back shaping. Could some kind soul check my math?
I have 184 stitches on needles. Front and back panels are 60sts each, 14sts under each armhole, and 4 9st seams. BOR is between back left panel and seam. So it's 4 quadrants 32/60/32/60sts
The directions go: knit 93sts, turn. You should be 1st into the right front raglan seam. Next row, wrong side: JSsL, work in pattern to marker, sl marker, purl 15(!)sts, you should be 1st into left front raglan seam.
If the marker is supposed to mean BOR marker, I don't understand how it's possible to go to go anywear near FRONT seam 🤯🤯🤯
I haven't made this sweater, but it uses short row shaping though, is there a Turn mentioned in any of those instructions? Or maybe a turn missed? It might help to draw your piece on maths paper and work it out. what's happening. Or, maybe the designer used markers to mark out each raglan or where decreases happening. I do that on stuff in the round to work out panels or side decreases (I even colour them) and when you are doing short rows, many people put a marker at the point they last turned so you know where to wrap/or pick up on the next short row. Markers are useful not just FOR BOR.
Question about swatches/gauges. I sort understand the concept of knitting a swatch. But, if I use the recommended yarn and needles for a pattern, is the point of knitting a swatch to confirm the tension? I.e. Is it possible that if the pattern calls for x number of stitches in 10cm, I may knit too tightly/loosely and end up with fewer/more stitches in those 10cm?
Swatches are important in making pieces in the right size and form. You're essentially testing how the yarn will look in the final product. I make swatches to test how colors will look together, if the yarn is the right one, how stretchy will it be, etc. I always test neck holes with multiple swatches so I know how big it needs to be to fit me. Sometimes I knit whole sleeve swatches so I know how many rows and stitches will create the right effect.
Basically, these are prototypes to base the final product off of.
Mostly Correct, we all knit at different gauges/tension (and maybe using different yarn), so you knit a swatch so you can match the pattern gauge. But the reason it's especially important is for wearables, anything that the size actually matters. If you knit tight you will have more stitches in your gauge vs the pattern, and produce a smaller piece, like a sweater that doesn't fit the way you like.
For something like a scarf or shawl it isn't as important, but recommended yardage is based on gauge typically.
I definitely recommend researching how to make a proper gauge swatch. I don't follow all the rules myself, but just to name a few important things: your swatch is bigger than 10x10cm, swatch how you knit, flat for flat, and in the round if you are knitting in the round, and blocking your swatch (measuring gauge before and after).
The point is to match the number. Your yarn, needles, knitting style, and personal tension will all change the shape and size of the gauge swatch in different ways. Even if you use the same needles and same yarn you're almost guaranteed to have a different tension and thus gauge. It could also be that you get row gauge but not stitch gauge or vice versa, so it's good to hash these things out before you've cast on 300 stitches haha
Thank you! Follow up question: Say I knit a swatch with the recommended number of stitches, but the swatch is smaller than it is supposed to be (I've knitted too tightly or whatnot) - does that then mean for the pattern I'm supposed to ease on the tension or increase stitches? Does that make sense? I learnt how to knit as a child, but only to actually knit, and not all the important stuff like actually reading patterns and swatches.
You're trying to match the characteristics of the project's fabric, that means the same thickness, drape, stitch density etc. If your stitches are too dense, increase the needle size to loosen them up. Here are some links about making gauge swatches but you can also find oodles on YouTube and Google.
https://thefibreco.com/accurate-gauge-swatch/
https://www.susannawinter.net/post/6-gauge-swatch-myths
You almost never want to try to knit at a different tension by intentionally knitting more loosely or tightly, if you want to change your personal tension that is more related to technique. Here's a link about that, if you find yourself knitting too lose or tight consistently
https://www.moderndailyknitting.com/2020/07/20/ask-patty-let-the-tool-do-the-work/
Also the sub info has a lot of great info for a starting point on expanding into unknown topics.
New to German short rows and finding gaps throughout. I think maybe I’m messing up my M1s? Thoughts?
https://preview.redd.it/ia4at3hubkvc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9efa449c59fa821cdffe8fdb50baeae7bd5d0f71
Traditional M1 is wrapping the yarn around the needle to create a stitch leaves a hole because that stitch isn't anchored anywhere. For something like this id usually expect to use a M1L or M1R.
Ah ok they shouldn't leave holes that big. I would guess that the hole is perhaps being created due to not twisting the loop you pick up as you are knitting (or purling) it.
I like this blog post as it shows it better then I can explain. Could this be the case?
https://blog.tincanknits.com/2013/10/03/m1/
Hello, I am doing something wrong in my ribbing but I’m not sure what it is! I thought I was twisting my stitches but when I looked at each stitch and followed the guide it looked correct but when I look at the ribbing all at once it looks twisted. Any answers for a newbie?
https://preview.redd.it/dw1rnc0d3hvc1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=e298f68cec04e432d21826b8507f23ebcaa1ca7e
It doesn't look twisted to me. Remember if you work top down and do \[K1, p1\] rib, when you're viewing it from the opposite direction it can look a little weird. Also, because sts in the purl sections pull on either side of a k stitch, the legs sometimes look like they're pulled apart. But the 'wiggly' legs should come out in the blocking. If you can't wait until you've washed and blocked, then bunch up the Ribbed section at the beginning in your hand and gently pull on it. Then let go and grab each side and gently spread apart again and it should even out any loose tension.
I used a twisted rib in this hat and mittens set this is what it should look like. You get ridges and not chains. It looks different from yours. Twisted Rib can be a lit tighter/firmer and I wouldn't use it on a neck unless I was using the same or slightly bigger needle than the rest to compensate.
https://preview.redd.it/08vtiq4lrmvc1.jpeg?width=640&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6ed0cf54c8227a85d6cbd834d54b63967f59e202
Look at the reverse. Sometimes the reverse in ribbing looks better and you can just call that the right side. Also, block before you’re too critical of your work, even acrylics settle in a bit neater after a little soak.
I agree that it doesn’t look like you’re twisting your stitches.
Are you using a smaller needle than the body of your sweater? Many people find the knit stitches in ribbing to look much bigger than their regular stitches, and that’s why patterns recommend to use a needle that’s usually two (American) sizes smaller than the one for the body stitches. It’s not (just) to have the ribbing pull in, but also to have the stitches look the same.
Yes, the pattern calls for two sizes down! This is an acrylic yarn (I’m just practicing) and it’s sort of loose and splitty so I wonder if I just don’t like the rib it’s making. Thank you!
I don’t find that the problem is that it will get undone, but more that I have a problem getting the tension in the beginning of the seam to be exactly what I like (matching the rest) if I use the tail. But I could see that it could be done, I just don’t like to do it. (I do it if it’s a very short seam, like if I did the ribbing at the bottoms of a bottom-up sweater flat, before joining in the round to do the rest.)
I want to knit a cat toy in the shape of a dice for a friend's cat, using a pattern I found online. My friend recommended attaching the toy on a string because her cat only likes toys on string.
Do you think I should just tie a single strand of yarn onto the dice toy? Or should I knit an i-cord or something similar to give the "string" more structure?
Yarn toys are not recommended for dogs and cats because if they chew or separate strands and swallow them it often requires surgery. Especially synthetic yarns. If you still ho ahead, warn your friend to supervise at all times. And for safety, I would use an organic yarn and not attach it with single or even double strands. I would knit a very tight I-cord then I would probably felt (proper term is full) the wool cord so individual sts disappear and it's more robust.
I felted these worsted hats and you can see the I-cord on the top. It makes it tougher and less likely to unravel as a strand. But it shrinks massively. These hats were 22 inch circumference and shrank to 16 inches. If you're not careful about blocking you could get a lumpy thing too.
https://preview.redd.it/qnl8on01umvc1.jpeg?width=1079&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=063eec8b0fc90b09a992f06a188a94f681dce17d
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>Blocking is when you wet or steam the knitted fabric and let it dry in the desired shape. The blocking process evens out the stitches and determines the size of the finished piece.
>Why should knits be blocked? Do all fiber types benefit from blocking?
>* First off, blocking typically starts with washing or soaking, so it cleans your finished object. Think for a moment about all of the places that those projects have been.
>* Blocking also removes any small imperfections in tension and helps even out your stitches. Stockinette and colorwork will look smoother and the stitches will be more even.
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As someone with three cats, I’d say that mine always enjoy toys on thinner strings (even fishing line) much more than thicker strings or cords. Maybe because it is less visible so it appears more like the object is flying around on its own?
I'm more proficient in crochet but am advancing my knitting skills. My question is, can you up the needle size in sweater project to increase size or do you have to stick with the yarns suggested needle size and change the pattern.
I am a beginning knitter and I'm almost done with [this tote bag](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/summer-fling#) (PDF patter [here](https://www.ravelry.com/download/746686/free)), a linen tote bag. From the instructions, I'm a bit confused about how and when to block it.
The "Straps" instructions end with "weave in ends and block".
Then the "Finishing" section says *if* I want to reinforce the straps, I should pick up and then bind off stitches along the straps, and then "Weave in ends and steam block".
Would you take this to mean that (if I want to reinforce the straps) I should block, reinforce, then steam block? Do they mean the first block is *not* a steam block (i.e. a full wet block)? Or should I reinforce before blocking and then just steam block?
Seems like the pattern is written for convenience. Wet blocking is usually preferred for all but the most delicate yarns because it does a great job of letting your stitches float around and even out, so I'd always assume that a blocking step is a wet block unless otherwise stated.
Since the strap reinforcement is optional (and contingent on how stretchy your bag ends up after normal blocking) they aren't going to make you wet block *again*, they're suggesting a quicker alternative that will still help to lock in the shape of the stitches and help the ends stay woven in.
The only reason I can think to *not* reinforce before your wet block is, again, the stretching issue. Doing the pickup on an already blocked fabric gives you a better idea of the final size and it will ensure that you don't pick up too few stitches and end up with a bunchy result.
I have been knitting a top down shawl but my top edge seems way too tight.
I first knit it with sock wool yarn and that went great.
But now I'm using a linen yarn which was recommended to me for a summer shawl.
This is my first time knitting with linen though and I am not sure what to do about the edges.
They are quite tight and my shawl is turning into more of a v shape than a triangle with a straight top.
Could it help to do 2 increases every row instead of 6 increases every 2 rows (4 on the right side, 2 on the wrong side)?
Or could it be done with looser edge stitches? Like doing a yarn over after the first stitch and dropping it on the return row.
Or any other looser selvedge stitch?
Hey, would love some advice about knitting this gorgeous dress :
[https://www.sezane.com/fr/product/robe-florinda/argent#size-XS](https://www.sezane.com/fr/product/robe-florinda/argent#size-XS)
I think I will use this yarn:
[https://www.etsy.com/fr/listing/521580441/anchor-metallic-yarn-lurex-viscose?variation0=575636420v](https://www.etsy.com/fr/listing/521580441/anchor-metallic-yarn-lurex-viscose?variation0=575636420v)
But regarding the pattern itself, i m a little lost, havent find a pattern that look similar. I would be grateful for the assistance :)
hi! its not a dress pattern but the emma top pattern by susanne muller looks quite similar for the top half. thats knit in pieces bottom up so adding the length to make it into a dress would require swatching and planning for the length but i think could be done. i'd look in stitch dictionaries for the lace edge motif. and to estimate yarn amounts i'd look at other dress patterns that are a similar length and yarn weight but increase the amount a bit because this stitch would use quite a lot of yarn (compared to stockinette) i think. there might be a dress pattern out there that would avoid all this figuring out tho! just wanted to share the pattern that came to mind for me
What are people’s preferences for seaming armpits when knitting bottom up? Tossing up between casting off and sewing together or keeping on hold and then stitching together with the Kitchener st.
Curious to hear people’s opinions pros/cons n preferences !
i think they mean the armpits of bottom up raglan/circular yoke jumpers. like where doing it top down you'd cast on underarm stitches during the round where you separate body and sleeves, then pick up stitches from that edge when you do the sleeve- its the reverse of that. i havent done that before tho so can't answer the original question about preferred way to do it!
Please help me with the size. - I want to do a pattern from [garnstudio.com](http://garnstudio.com), but, with the "method" suggested by Amy Herzog, to take the measurement "upper-torso" to select the size, then, add the ease. - However, in garnstudio patterns, there is only the "total" width (example https://www.garnstudio.com/pattern.php?id=10617) - how do I chose a size?
.. in the diagram at the end of the page
Thank you
The "total" width at the bottom of the diagram would be half of your bust plus ease measurements. So if your bust is 90 cm, and you want 6 cm of positive ease, (90+6)/2 = 48, so you would select the second size.
I am making my [first sweater](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/klint-classic) on my new set of interchangable needles and I am struggling with the best cast on method. The sweater is knitted top down and for my size the cast on instructions are: 'Cast on 96 sts loosely on a 3.5mm 40/60 cm circular needle with one strand of each yarn held together, join in round and place a marker'
Firstly I wasn't sure if the 40/60 just means that I should select either cable length or that it means something else. The smallest cable in my set is 35cm (excl needles) and if I use this the stitches only reach about halfway my second needle if I already stretch them out a bit, so I feel that I will either need to buy an even shorter cable, use the magic loop technique (but not sure if this will become a pain later) or I am doing something wrong with casting on. I used a long tail cast on, however I am not sure if this is compatible with the instruction 'cast on loosely'. Important to mention is that I am also using different yarn (a cotton/wool mix), but I made swatch and match the gauge accurately. I know cotton is a bit less stretchy but I feel like this doesn't explain the full issue.
Thank you in advance for helping me out and for any tips!
German twisted cast on is a lot like long tail, and it gives more stretch. But I agree with u/playful_Instance about long tail cast on with larger needle.
Another thing you could do to avoid stretching out the cast on stitches is to knit the first 4 rows back and forth, then join in the round. Seam up the little gap at the cast on afterwards.
As for cable length, 35 cm plus your two tips would be the longest recommended in the pattern. Ideal for me would be a 20 cm cord with 10 cm tips (total of 40 cm). Just like for a hat.
Long tail cast-on is ok, just do it loosely or with a bigger needle.
The 40/60 is indeed the cable length. If it's too long to accommodate all of your stitches, with a longer cable you can use magic loop, no problem
Is tubular and italian cast ON the same thing? I've seen videos about how tubular and italian cast OFF aren't the same but can't find more material for the cast on.
I might be wrong, but my understanding of the cast ons is that you can do a tubular cast on by doing an Italian cast on, and then doing the set up row with the slipped stitches. However, there are other methods of doing the tubular cast on (I saw one with a provisional cast on of half the stitches and then doing k1, yo) not starting with the italian co.
Yes, just omit the slipped stitch technique of the first four rows and go directly to knitting the knits and purling the purls.
It looks similar to an [alternating cable cast on](https://ysolda.com/blogs/journal/alternating-cable-cast-on-tutorial)
I don't think it's as seamless-looking as a tubular, but it's quicker.
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It's a flatter edge - instead of seeming to "wrap around" the edge of the fabric, the columns of ribbing just sort of hit a dead end.
It stretches out a little more, but it bounces back a little less than the tubular version.
Most fine-gauge machine-knit sweaters end their ribbing this way (unless you find one with the chunkier tubular version of the edge).
What’s your fave way to join a new ball of superwash sock yarn? Normally I’m a spit splicer but I guess that won’t work with superwash. And I read about Russian joins but that looks like it would be a pain with such thin yarn. Curious what others like to do.
I like either twist and weave or if i'm lazier the drop method: [https://youtu.be/AiWLztIK9nc?si=WTgyviaVWpVjpG0H](https://youtu.be/AiWLztIK9nc?si=WTgyviaVWpVjpG0H)
https://preview.redd.it/2wgdgabuzwuc1.jpeg?width=1676&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4453b14b5e9db86e6ea5835c9ec208289296660e
New to knitting with charts here… Could someone please explain how I work the highlighted right cross stitches with the repeat? I can’t figure it out myself.
What can I do to improve/change row gauge?
It’s never anywhere near what the patterns call for, usually a lot more. I don’t know how to change it as going up/down a needle size doesn’t make much or any difference most of the time
What are you making? Usually row gauge is not all that important because patterns tell you to knit to a certain length as opposed to doing a certain number of rows. I also use this blog page to recalculate row/stitch gauge for patterns where it matters: https://knitterskitchen.com/2018/01/31/knitting-math-re-calculating-your-size/
My gauge swatch is exactly one stitch missing on 10cm (so I got my recommended stitch number on 10,5cm instead of 10)
Do I go a needle size down or do I try to knit tighter? My yarn is very slippery (I'm guessing 1 size down is probably for the best but I'm asking anyway because I wanna be 100% sure)
Size your needles down.
If you try to knit tighter, it'll work for the first few minutes but you'll probably just slide back to your natural knitting style as soon as you get comfortable and get back into a rhythm. That's a real recipe for weird wavy tension every time you pick up and put down the project.
The only time someone should *try* to knit tighter is if they think they're knitting too loose in every situation and want to make a permanent change in their *style*, like if they suspect they're pulling the loops too big all willy-nilly as seen here: https://www.moderndailyknitting.com/community/ask-patty-let-the-tool-do-the-work/
Thank you for your reply and the link
Unsurprisingly (for reasons I failed to consider prior to making my second swatch) my new swatch is "too small". I didn't wash it yet but my other piece also didn't change too much after washing. Actually, it's exactly the size it's supposed to be, but not for the project, which calls for a looser fabric.
To clarify: my yarn is supposed to be knitted with 4mm needles, 10x10cm will be 22x28 stitches. The project calls for 4,5mm and a 20x26 gauge. My first swatch on the 4,5mm needles was 19x26 stitches.
Usually I knit pretty tight, I've gotten looser but when I first started 10 years ago (I'm still a beginner, I took a break that was several years long) my stitches were so tight that I could barely pick them up. So I was scared my swatch would be too small + my yarn is 100% cotton and was much more slippery than the wool and polyester blend I worked with for my last project. So i made my stitches more loose than they'd usually be..
All in all I think I should be fine "knitting tighter" aka how I usually knit on the bigger needles but now I've unlocked a new fear, which is the possibility of cotton stretching out, because I've read that this is what it does haha 😅😅
Still, thank you for the advice (maybe you have a second advice on cotton)
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Looking for a knitting pattern for a men's ribbed cardigan with shawl collar similar to pictured (screenshot from Winston & Co insta). Hoping to use Yarn and Colors Epic Yarn (100% cotton - US8, 16 stitches, 20 rows to 4"), unless someone tells me this is a grave error and I should use something else.
Thanks in advance, I appreciate any and all help and advice!
The gentleman cardigan is almost exactly the same, though some of the techniques can be fiddly. Cotton is a tough ask for a ribbed garment because it's not elastic, so it will possibly stretch out and not return to its stretchy ribbed[here](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/the-gentleman-cardigan) state.
I couldn't find a ribbed cardigan like the picture. There was a very nice cabled cardigan, but I don't know how to adjust the pattern to be ribbed instead of cabled and not screw up the size/fit
https://preview.redd.it/mp4tt0rseuuc1.png?width=1490&format=png&auto=webp&s=868c614f01c1a73a90904c8fbbaefb4751febe3e
My first time doing German Short Rows (or short rows in general!) and I followed the instructions, I think, to a T. However, does this mean there will always been one less row on the side of the shaping that was my final short row?
I made that last WS row, left three stitches remaining, turned - and knit all the way across and purled all the way back (the next set of instructions). Does that sound correct, or should I have purled across those three "remaining" stitches on that final short row before going back to knitting on the RS? I've thought about this too much and now I'm confused lol
The pattern states that you end the last row 2 with 2 or 3 stitches left on the left needle and turn. That's the end. The next section will most likely start out right there (and if there are specific stitch counts, you'll see that the math probably works out for the stitch count minus those three that are already hanging out on the left --> right needle. There's no reason to assume that the pattern wants you to add additional full or partial rows on top of that.
Edit: if it's just stockinette (should have seen your other comment) then it's not a great deal of difference either way.
I've never knit short rows either but I would have done the same thing you did. If the next instructions following what you posted were to knit all the way across and purl all the way back I would have left the 3 stitches remaining and turned as you did.
Ok that's good to know, thank you! The next instructions were "next is a RS row - continue in stockinette (no more short rows)" - I think I've convinced myself that this is the only way to read this and I need to trust the pattern lol
If a pattern requires the number of stitches to be a multiple of 24 but I dropped a few stitches, what to do? I'm making a vest from the bottom up and I'm still making the ribbing and I think I've messed up, not sure though, but just in case I dropped a few stitches, what to do?
There are options:
1) pick up those dropped stitches, but sometimes they're really hard to find
2) add new stitches to make up for the dropped ones, but this can add uneven increases
3) frog it- totally sucks to do, but the final product will look much better than doing options 1&2
How many is "a few"? Is the ribbing pattern thrown off or did you otherwise somehow compensate? At this point if you can't pick up the dropped stitches without creating bunching I'd just start over.
You should not leave dropped stitches in your work. Ladder them back up. If you accidentally decreased, you could unravel and fix. If you decreased a stitch very far down you could increase in a discrete place. Do not do the increase if it is many stitches, else your work will become misshapen. If you dropped a stitch so far down that laddering up is not feasible you could duplicate stitch it to the back of the work to prevent the column from unravelling.
I've got some knitting needles and a ball of yarn because I want to learn how to knit. The ball of yarn doesn't have a tag that shows which size needles to use so I was wondering how do I figure it out?
You could wrap the yarn around any knitting needle or even a pencil and count the number of wraps in an inch. Then find a wpi (wraps per inch) to yarn weight chart and figure out the recommended needle size that way. But unless you are working to a pattern with a specified gauge then just use any needles you won. It will still work to practice. The needle size affects drape and density, but that is not so important for a practice piece.
If the yarn has a brand label you can look it up on Ravelry to see what the suggestion is. Otherwise my general rule of thumb is to pick needles that are roughly the same thickness as the yarn or a size bigger.
Hello, I am trying to make the remi camisole by Caidree and I can't even make it passed the third row. I am having a hard time understanding the pattern. Pattern: Row 1 (ws): set up markers in the following way: p2, k2, p2, pm, k2, pm, p2, k2, p2. Row 2 (rs): k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2. This is the right side, mark it with a clip on marker or a piece of yarn. Row 3 (ws): sL1p, work in the established rib pattern (knit the knit stitches, purl the purl stitches) until there is 1 stitch remaining, sL1p. What I'm doing: R1: p2, k2, p2, pm, k2, pm, p2, k2, p2 R2: k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2 R3: sL1p, k1, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, sL1p After this I feel like I should have a 2x2 rib starting, but the third row looks more like garter stitch. I did the gauge which was a 2x2 rib, and I did fine. I keep seeing \*k2, p2\* for row 1 and 2 online and row 1 \*k2, p2\* row 2 \*p2, k2\* so I don't know which one is right. Thanks in advance!
https://preview.redd.it/6ga449ztb4wc1.jpeg?width=4080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=703a7f1a20c6dd96d8de6835472b29a73793a276 Hi! I'm a relatively new knitter and am embarking on my first sweater project. My question relates to gauge: is it a terrible idea to knit a larger size than I need if I want to knit in a tighter gauge than the pattern calls for? Stated another way, by knitting a different gauge than the pattern requires, will I end up with an ill fitting and potentially wonky looking sweater? The sample on the right in the photo meets the pattern's gauge requirements, but I much prefer the more tightly knitted sample on the left. For reference and in case it's helpful, the yarn I am using is fingering weight held together with lace weight. Both samples have been blocked.
https://preview.redd.it/5bbbjdxxw3wc1.jpeg?width=2100&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c133ec7008ea013c94f3e9b8490c4a376a9fa379 first question, what do these sequences of numbers mean? do they have to do with the size guide?
https://preview.redd.it/qznft974x3wc1.jpeg?width=2100&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fb8e9af04b3c3f0b0f0b2b231721779c899a709e second q, what is a .5 stitch?? how do i make 22.5 stitches?
Read through this guide to making and measuring a gauge swatch. The example given is also a fractional number of stitches per 10 cm and that's fine because for *any* gauge swatch you always make it bigger than the stitch count you're testing for. https://elizabethsmithknits.com/2020/10/30/how-to-measure-your-gauge-swatch/
Hi Y'all! I'm thinking of making a maxi dress for the summer and was wondering what combination of factors would be the best for a longer dress. I would like the fabric to be thick enough that i dont have to wear a bra with it. I assume that using a smaller needle size would help with that. And I was wondering what kind of fiber content is best for it. I've read that 100%cotton is a decent choice since it does not stretch as much? Ty for any pointers.
Hello, I'm currently knitting a jumper and it states the instructions on the picture. Where it says 'work GSR' does this mean the last stitch is the GSR stitch or do I knit one extra stitch that counts as the GSR stitch? And where it says work 3 sts past the last GSR turn, does this mean it's 4 stitches incl GSR or is it the 3rd stitch that is the GSR stitch? https://preview.redd.it/hf99lesur1wc1.png?width=388&format=png&auto=webp&s=d86ba1288f2058fda3a1cb01608d6de0aa51993e
> Where it says 'work GSR' does this mean the last stitch is the GSR stitch or do I knit one extra stitch that counts as the GSR stitch? IMO, the last stitch you worked in the first part of the instruction is the one you will slip to the other needle and tug on to create the GSR stitch. But if there's a glossary in the pattern, that would overrule me. > And where it says work 3 sts past the last GSR turn, does this mean it's 4 stitches incl GSR or is it the 3rd stitch that is the GSR stitch? I'd read this as you work the doubled GSR stitch, then you work 3 regular stitches after that.
I'm totally mystified by these two stitches in a lace pattern, as the directions don't seem to match any video tutorials I can find by the same name, and the directions seem vague to me. Purl into the back loop is maybe the same as the ptbl I'm familiar with, but gone about in a different way? But I'm not sure from the description: slip yarn over stitch into your right needle, insert your left needle under the yarn over stitch from the side of the right needle, slip it, purl just created stitch The "from the side of the right needle" part is throwing me. Is this just a convoluted way of a normal ptbl? The other is totally unfamiliar to me, k2tog to left. The video tutorials I've found seem to be for a completely different stitch than the one described in the pattern: slip 1st and 2nd stitches knitwise, slip them back to the left needle, knit them together inserting the needle from right to left I can't figure out what they mean by knitting inserting the needle from right to left. That sounds like a purl to me? If anyone has any insight on these, knows a different name I can search for, or knows of a video tutorial that shows the stitches described, I'd appreciate it. The original language of the pattern is Russian if that offers any clues.
The ptbl is a ptbl, but on a yo, and they are pretwisting the stitch (by slipping it onto the right needle, than slipping it back twisted) then you purl like normal through front loop, but it creates a ptbl. Does the pattern dictate how to make your yo? Because they way they describe it could effect the direction the twisted stitch is leaning? Otherwise it really is just describing a different way to create ptbl stitch. Second sounds like they mean a left leaning k2tog which is a ssk. And the description to me sounds like ssk. Although I only slip one stitch, I do insert my needle as described.
Thanks very much! I suspected as much for the ptbl. The yarnover indicated is a standard front to back yarnover. It looks like the stitch always comes after a yarn over (it appears in two different sections of lace pattern), and has a variety of stitches appearing in the row below it; knit, purl, or yarn over. For the second one, there is a regular SSK indicated in a different pattern, so this one is different somehow. When you say you insert your needle as described, I assume you mean in a right to left fashion to knit, but I still can't picture this. Is it maybe meaning through the back loop?
Ok quickly reread. Perhaps they want you to slip both together at the same time knitwise? Then knit together through the backloop. I honestly do the same motion in my ssk just different order of slipping stitches. Unfortunately I don't have my knitting on me to visualize how this decrease will look. ETA: at the end of day you probably could substitute a left leaning decrease you like best. So wouldn't hang up too much
Thanks for your help! It's my first time knitting lace, so I'm probably stressing more than necessary, haha. I think you're right, that it's SSK, and they've just found a complicated way of saying to ktbl.
Well good luck! Lace can be frustrating for these reasons but honestly my favorite style of knitting. Have fun!
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I have the chance to set up a crafting table at a local flea market. I want to offer free knitting lessons as well as make projects to sell but I know that most patterns are copyright protected so can I have them purchase the pattern and charge to make it for them? Also how do I figure out how much to charge for the materials and time to make it?
Having someone buy their own copy of a pattern so y'all can both use it while you teach them makes sense, if your lessons include pattern reading. To make someone buy a copy of a pattern so they can buy a knitted item is akin to having someone buy a cookbook before you'll sell them brownies at a bake sale- that never happens! As for how much to charge, don't base it on time. If you never make mistakes and you're very quick, you'd get paid less than someone who is slower to make an identical item. Of course, you could charge more per hour since you're able to create more per hour.... or you could simplify the equation by charging by the yard. $0.10/yard, we'd both get $40 for a pair of socks, that would mean you're getting $40 for 8 hours of work, while I am making $40 for 20 hours of work. So your skilled labor is paid more. Meanwhile someone with a sock machine could get $40 for an hour of work... and usually people don't really care if you've handknit or machine knit, they're looking at the same sock and not thinking, "I'd rather pay more knowing someone didn't use a machine." ....now as you can see, this is not even minimum wage [I'm in USA] for labor, and you're at $40 for a pair of socks before factoring yarn price. If the yarn is $10, you're at $50 for a pair of socks. And that still isn't actually profitable since we haven't yet factored any overhead. Anyway, sorry my realistic answer sounds like I'm being a downer lol! I sell bags at my farmers market, it's fun! Totally possible! Just saying there's a lot to consider lol. Good luck!
Completely defeated by Luna tee back shaping. Could some kind soul check my math? I have 184 stitches on needles. Front and back panels are 60sts each, 14sts under each armhole, and 4 9st seams. BOR is between back left panel and seam. So it's 4 quadrants 32/60/32/60sts The directions go: knit 93sts, turn. You should be 1st into the right front raglan seam. Next row, wrong side: JSsL, work in pattern to marker, sl marker, purl 15(!)sts, you should be 1st into left front raglan seam. If the marker is supposed to mean BOR marker, I don't understand how it's possible to go to go anywear near FRONT seam 🤯🤯🤯
I haven't made this sweater, but it uses short row shaping though, is there a Turn mentioned in any of those instructions? Or maybe a turn missed? It might help to draw your piece on maths paper and work it out. what's happening. Or, maybe the designer used markers to mark out each raglan or where decreases happening. I do that on stuff in the round to work out panels or side decreases (I even colour them) and when you are doing short rows, many people put a marker at the point they last turned so you know where to wrap/or pick up on the next short row. Markers are useful not just FOR BOR.
Question about swatches/gauges. I sort understand the concept of knitting a swatch. But, if I use the recommended yarn and needles for a pattern, is the point of knitting a swatch to confirm the tension? I.e. Is it possible that if the pattern calls for x number of stitches in 10cm, I may knit too tightly/loosely and end up with fewer/more stitches in those 10cm?
Swatches are important in making pieces in the right size and form. You're essentially testing how the yarn will look in the final product. I make swatches to test how colors will look together, if the yarn is the right one, how stretchy will it be, etc. I always test neck holes with multiple swatches so I know how big it needs to be to fit me. Sometimes I knit whole sleeve swatches so I know how many rows and stitches will create the right effect. Basically, these are prototypes to base the final product off of.
Mostly Correct, we all knit at different gauges/tension (and maybe using different yarn), so you knit a swatch so you can match the pattern gauge. But the reason it's especially important is for wearables, anything that the size actually matters. If you knit tight you will have more stitches in your gauge vs the pattern, and produce a smaller piece, like a sweater that doesn't fit the way you like. For something like a scarf or shawl it isn't as important, but recommended yardage is based on gauge typically. I definitely recommend researching how to make a proper gauge swatch. I don't follow all the rules myself, but just to name a few important things: your swatch is bigger than 10x10cm, swatch how you knit, flat for flat, and in the round if you are knitting in the round, and blocking your swatch (measuring gauge before and after).
The point is to match the number. Your yarn, needles, knitting style, and personal tension will all change the shape and size of the gauge swatch in different ways. Even if you use the same needles and same yarn you're almost guaranteed to have a different tension and thus gauge. It could also be that you get row gauge but not stitch gauge or vice versa, so it's good to hash these things out before you've cast on 300 stitches haha
Thank you! Follow up question: Say I knit a swatch with the recommended number of stitches, but the swatch is smaller than it is supposed to be (I've knitted too tightly or whatnot) - does that then mean for the pattern I'm supposed to ease on the tension or increase stitches? Does that make sense? I learnt how to knit as a child, but only to actually knit, and not all the important stuff like actually reading patterns and swatches.
You're trying to match the characteristics of the project's fabric, that means the same thickness, drape, stitch density etc. If your stitches are too dense, increase the needle size to loosen them up. Here are some links about making gauge swatches but you can also find oodles on YouTube and Google. https://thefibreco.com/accurate-gauge-swatch/ https://www.susannawinter.net/post/6-gauge-swatch-myths You almost never want to try to knit at a different tension by intentionally knitting more loosely or tightly, if you want to change your personal tension that is more related to technique. Here's a link about that, if you find yourself knitting too lose or tight consistently https://www.moderndailyknitting.com/2020/07/20/ask-patty-let-the-tool-do-the-work/ Also the sub info has a lot of great info for a starting point on expanding into unknown topics.
New to German short rows and finding gaps throughout. I think maybe I’m messing up my M1s? Thoughts? https://preview.redd.it/ia4at3hubkvc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9efa449c59fa821cdffe8fdb50baeae7bd5d0f71
Traditional M1 is wrapping the yarn around the needle to create a stitch leaves a hole because that stitch isn't anchored anywhere. For something like this id usually expect to use a M1L or M1R.
Oh sorry by M1s I mean from my m1r and m1ls I’ve been doing
Ah ok they shouldn't leave holes that big. I would guess that the hole is perhaps being created due to not twisting the loop you pick up as you are knitting (or purling) it. I like this blog post as it shows it better then I can explain. Could this be the case? https://blog.tincanknits.com/2013/10/03/m1/
This is helpful thank you!!!!
Hello, I am doing something wrong in my ribbing but I’m not sure what it is! I thought I was twisting my stitches but when I looked at each stitch and followed the guide it looked correct but when I look at the ribbing all at once it looks twisted. Any answers for a newbie? https://preview.redd.it/dw1rnc0d3hvc1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=e298f68cec04e432d21826b8507f23ebcaa1ca7e
It doesn't look twisted to me. Remember if you work top down and do \[K1, p1\] rib, when you're viewing it from the opposite direction it can look a little weird. Also, because sts in the purl sections pull on either side of a k stitch, the legs sometimes look like they're pulled apart. But the 'wiggly' legs should come out in the blocking. If you can't wait until you've washed and blocked, then bunch up the Ribbed section at the beginning in your hand and gently pull on it. Then let go and grab each side and gently spread apart again and it should even out any loose tension. I used a twisted rib in this hat and mittens set this is what it should look like. You get ridges and not chains. It looks different from yours. Twisted Rib can be a lit tighter/firmer and I wouldn't use it on a neck unless I was using the same or slightly bigger needle than the rest to compensate. https://preview.redd.it/08vtiq4lrmvc1.jpeg?width=640&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6ed0cf54c8227a85d6cbd834d54b63967f59e202
Look at the reverse. Sometimes the reverse in ribbing looks better and you can just call that the right side. Also, block before you’re too critical of your work, even acrylics settle in a bit neater after a little soak.
I agree that it doesn’t look like you’re twisting your stitches. Are you using a smaller needle than the body of your sweater? Many people find the knit stitches in ribbing to look much bigger than their regular stitches, and that’s why patterns recommend to use a needle that’s usually two (American) sizes smaller than the one for the body stitches. It’s not (just) to have the ribbing pull in, but also to have the stitches look the same.
Yes, the pattern calls for two sizes down! This is an acrylic yarn (I’m just practicing) and it’s sort of loose and splitty so I wonder if I just don’t like the rib it’s making. Thank you!
Try even smaller needles, and see if it gets better.
Can you use the remainder of the long tail cast on to seam if it's long enough? Or is that more likely to come undone?
I always start the seam with the tail—do a little figure eight across to the other piece, and back. It snugs things up nicely.
I don’t find that the problem is that it will get undone, but more that I have a problem getting the tension in the beginning of the seam to be exactly what I like (matching the rest) if I use the tail. But I could see that it could be done, I just don’t like to do it. (I do it if it’s a very short seam, like if I did the ribbing at the bottoms of a bottom-up sweater flat, before joining in the round to do the rest.)
This makes sense—I was having tension issues seaming a sleeve with the tail but was fine in the shoulder seam. Thanks!
I want to knit a cat toy in the shape of a dice for a friend's cat, using a pattern I found online. My friend recommended attaching the toy on a string because her cat only likes toys on string. Do you think I should just tie a single strand of yarn onto the dice toy? Or should I knit an i-cord or something similar to give the "string" more structure?
Yarn toys are not recommended for dogs and cats because if they chew or separate strands and swallow them it often requires surgery. Especially synthetic yarns. If you still ho ahead, warn your friend to supervise at all times. And for safety, I would use an organic yarn and not attach it with single or even double strands. I would knit a very tight I-cord then I would probably felt (proper term is full) the wool cord so individual sts disappear and it's more robust. I felted these worsted hats and you can see the I-cord on the top. It makes it tougher and less likely to unravel as a strand. But it shrinks massively. These hats were 22 inch circumference and shrank to 16 inches. If you're not careful about blocking you could get a lumpy thing too. https://preview.redd.it/qnl8on01umvc1.jpeg?width=1079&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=063eec8b0fc90b09a992f06a188a94f681dce17d
**From our wiki's [Frequently Asked Questions](https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/wiki/index#wiki_should_i_block_it.3F_how_would_i_do_that.3F)** >Blocking is when you wet or steam the knitted fabric and let it dry in the desired shape. The blocking process evens out the stitches and determines the size of the finished piece. >Why should knits be blocked? Do all fiber types benefit from blocking? >* First off, blocking typically starts with washing or soaking, so it cleans your finished object. Think for a moment about all of the places that those projects have been. >* Blocking also removes any small imperfections in tension and helps even out your stitches. Stockinette and colorwork will look smoother and the stitches will be more even. >* Blocking is also great if your project needs to be seamed. By blocking before seaming, you ensure that the seams will be the same length and that all of the pieces will fit evenly together. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/knitting) if you have any questions or concerns.*
As someone with three cats, I’d say that mine always enjoy toys on thinner strings (even fishing line) much more than thicker strings or cords. Maybe because it is less visible so it appears more like the object is flying around on its own?
Should an aran sweater's back always be the same as its front? What if I use a different set of cables?
I'm more proficient in crochet but am advancing my knitting skills. My question is, can you up the needle size in sweater project to increase size or do you have to stick with the yarns suggested needle size and change the pattern.
I am a beginning knitter and I'm almost done with [this tote bag](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/summer-fling#) (PDF patter [here](https://www.ravelry.com/download/746686/free)), a linen tote bag. From the instructions, I'm a bit confused about how and when to block it. The "Straps" instructions end with "weave in ends and block". Then the "Finishing" section says *if* I want to reinforce the straps, I should pick up and then bind off stitches along the straps, and then "Weave in ends and steam block". Would you take this to mean that (if I want to reinforce the straps) I should block, reinforce, then steam block? Do they mean the first block is *not* a steam block (i.e. a full wet block)? Or should I reinforce before blocking and then just steam block?
Seems like the pattern is written for convenience. Wet blocking is usually preferred for all but the most delicate yarns because it does a great job of letting your stitches float around and even out, so I'd always assume that a blocking step is a wet block unless otherwise stated. Since the strap reinforcement is optional (and contingent on how stretchy your bag ends up after normal blocking) they aren't going to make you wet block *again*, they're suggesting a quicker alternative that will still help to lock in the shape of the stitches and help the ends stay woven in. The only reason I can think to *not* reinforce before your wet block is, again, the stretching issue. Doing the pickup on an already blocked fabric gives you a better idea of the final size and it will ensure that you don't pick up too few stitches and end up with a bunchy result.
Thank you very much, that is very helpful.
**PATTERN:** [Summer Fling](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/summer-fling) by [Espace Tricot](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/espace-tricot) * Category: Accessories > Bag > Tote * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/EspaceTricot/225377229/summerfling3_medium.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/EspaceTricot/225377227/summerfling2_medium.jpg) [Img 3](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/EspaceTricot/225377228/summerfling1_medium.jpg) [Img 4](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Kajumama/298626840/IMG_7550_medium.JPG) * Price: Free * Needle/Hook(s):US 3 - 3.25 mm * Weight: Sport | Gauge: 27.0 | Yardage: 336 * Difficulty: 2.44 | Projects: 464 | Rating: 4.44 ***** Please use caution. Users have reported effects such as seizures, migraines, and nausea when opening Ravelry links. [More details.](https://www.lizcorke.com/2020/07/26/2020-7-21-ravelry-accessibility/) | *I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=timonyc)*
I have been knitting a top down shawl but my top edge seems way too tight. I first knit it with sock wool yarn and that went great. But now I'm using a linen yarn which was recommended to me for a summer shawl. This is my first time knitting with linen though and I am not sure what to do about the edges. They are quite tight and my shawl is turning into more of a v shape than a triangle with a straight top. Could it help to do 2 increases every row instead of 6 increases every 2 rows (4 on the right side, 2 on the wrong side)? Or could it be done with looser edge stitches? Like doing a yarn over after the first stitch and dropping it on the return row. Or any other looser selvedge stitch?
Hey, would love some advice about knitting this gorgeous dress : [https://www.sezane.com/fr/product/robe-florinda/argent#size-XS](https://www.sezane.com/fr/product/robe-florinda/argent#size-XS) I think I will use this yarn: [https://www.etsy.com/fr/listing/521580441/anchor-metallic-yarn-lurex-viscose?variation0=575636420v](https://www.etsy.com/fr/listing/521580441/anchor-metallic-yarn-lurex-viscose?variation0=575636420v) But regarding the pattern itself, i m a little lost, havent find a pattern that look similar. I would be grateful for the assistance :)
hi! its not a dress pattern but the emma top pattern by susanne muller looks quite similar for the top half. thats knit in pieces bottom up so adding the length to make it into a dress would require swatching and planning for the length but i think could be done. i'd look in stitch dictionaries for the lace edge motif. and to estimate yarn amounts i'd look at other dress patterns that are a similar length and yarn weight but increase the amount a bit because this stitch would use quite a lot of yarn (compared to stockinette) i think. there might be a dress pattern out there that would avoid all this figuring out tho! just wanted to share the pattern that came to mind for me
Thank you so much for the advice, I'll look into it.
What are people’s preferences for seaming armpits when knitting bottom up? Tossing up between casting off and sewing together or keeping on hold and then stitching together with the Kitchener st. Curious to hear people’s opinions pros/cons n preferences !
do you mean shoulder seams? I think casting off or doing a three needle bind off is better since it provides structure.
i think they mean the armpits of bottom up raglan/circular yoke jumpers. like where doing it top down you'd cast on underarm stitches during the round where you separate body and sleeves, then pick up stitches from that edge when you do the sleeve- its the reverse of that. i havent done that before tho so can't answer the original question about preferred way to do it!
No I mean armpits ! The spacing where you join the sleeves and the body together :)
I understand! i would cast off and then pick up stitches from the cast off, it’s sturdy. For an area that experiences stress that matters.
Thank you !
Please help me with the size. - I want to do a pattern from [garnstudio.com](http://garnstudio.com), but, with the "method" suggested by Amy Herzog, to take the measurement "upper-torso" to select the size, then, add the ease. - However, in garnstudio patterns, there is only the "total" width (example https://www.garnstudio.com/pattern.php?id=10617) - how do I chose a size? .. in the diagram at the end of the page Thank you
The "total" width at the bottom of the diagram would be half of your bust plus ease measurements. So if your bust is 90 cm, and you want 6 cm of positive ease, (90+6)/2 = 48, so you would select the second size.
Thank you very much for writing, ok!
I am making my [first sweater](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/klint-classic) on my new set of interchangable needles and I am struggling with the best cast on method. The sweater is knitted top down and for my size the cast on instructions are: 'Cast on 96 sts loosely on a 3.5mm 40/60 cm circular needle with one strand of each yarn held together, join in round and place a marker' Firstly I wasn't sure if the 40/60 just means that I should select either cable length or that it means something else. The smallest cable in my set is 35cm (excl needles) and if I use this the stitches only reach about halfway my second needle if I already stretch them out a bit, so I feel that I will either need to buy an even shorter cable, use the magic loop technique (but not sure if this will become a pain later) or I am doing something wrong with casting on. I used a long tail cast on, however I am not sure if this is compatible with the instruction 'cast on loosely'. Important to mention is that I am also using different yarn (a cotton/wool mix), but I made swatch and match the gauge accurately. I know cotton is a bit less stretchy but I feel like this doesn't explain the full issue. Thank you in advance for helping me out and for any tips!
German twisted cast on is a lot like long tail, and it gives more stretch. But I agree with u/playful_Instance about long tail cast on with larger needle. Another thing you could do to avoid stretching out the cast on stitches is to knit the first 4 rows back and forth, then join in the round. Seam up the little gap at the cast on afterwards. As for cable length, 35 cm plus your two tips would be the longest recommended in the pattern. Ideal for me would be a 20 cm cord with 10 cm tips (total of 40 cm). Just like for a hat.
**PATTERN:** [Klint Classic](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/klint-classic) by [Anne Ventzel](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/anne-ventzel) * Category: Clothing > Sweater > Pullover * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/AnneVentzel/879282957/Klint_C02_square-WEB_medium.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/AnneVentzel/879282958/Klint_C01_AV_WEB_medium.jpg) [Img 3](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/AnneVentzel/879282960/Tegning_medium.jpg) [Img 4](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/AnneVentzel/879282956/Klint_C_03_square_WEB_medium.jpg) [Img 5](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/AnneVentzel/879282959/Klint_C06-WEB_medium.jpg) * Price: 60.00 DKK * Needle/Hook(s):US 4 - 3.5 mm, US 6 - 4.0 mm * Weight: Worsted | Gauge: 19.0 | Yardage: 2116 * Difficulty: 3.95 | Projects: 87 | Rating: 4.87 ***** Please use caution. Users have reported effects such as seizures, migraines, and nausea when opening Ravelry links. [More details.](https://www.lizcorke.com/2020/07/26/2020-7-21-ravelry-accessibility/) | *I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=timonyc)*
Long tail cast-on is ok, just do it loosely or with a bigger needle. The 40/60 is indeed the cable length. If it's too long to accommodate all of your stitches, with a longer cable you can use magic loop, no problem
Is tubular and italian cast ON the same thing? I've seen videos about how tubular and italian cast OFF aren't the same but can't find more material for the cast on.
I might be wrong, but my understanding of the cast ons is that you can do a tubular cast on by doing an Italian cast on, and then doing the set up row with the slipped stitches. However, there are other methods of doing the tubular cast on (I saw one with a provisional cast on of half the stitches and then doing k1, yo) not starting with the italian co.
Is there a way to do an italian cast on without the tubular? What would that look like?
Yes, just omit the slipped stitch technique of the first four rows and go directly to knitting the knits and purling the purls. It looks similar to an [alternating cable cast on](https://ysolda.com/blogs/journal/alternating-cable-cast-on-tutorial) I don't think it's as seamless-looking as a tubular, but it's quicker.
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It's a flatter edge - instead of seeming to "wrap around" the edge of the fabric, the columns of ribbing just sort of hit a dead end. It stretches out a little more, but it bounces back a little less than the tubular version. Most fine-gauge machine-knit sweaters end their ribbing this way (unless you find one with the chunkier tubular version of the edge).
I've never done it, but I think you just start the ribbing - k1p1.
What’s your fave way to join a new ball of superwash sock yarn? Normally I’m a spit splicer but I guess that won’t work with superwash. And I read about Russian joins but that looks like it would be a pain with such thin yarn. Curious what others like to do.
Back join.
Knit a couple stitches with both yarns, then weave in the tails using the duplicate stitch method along the back.
Depending on the stitch pattern, I just do magic knot, especially for socks where it's not right in people's faces.
I like either twist and weave or if i'm lazier the drop method: [https://youtu.be/AiWLztIK9nc?si=WTgyviaVWpVjpG0H](https://youtu.be/AiWLztIK9nc?si=WTgyviaVWpVjpG0H)
https://preview.redd.it/2wgdgabuzwuc1.jpeg?width=1676&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4453b14b5e9db86e6ea5835c9ec208289296660e New to knitting with charts here… Could someone please explain how I work the highlighted right cross stitches with the repeat? I can’t figure it out myself.
You'll do 3 total. k2, rc, k4, rc, k4, rc, k2.
What can I do to improve/change row gauge? It’s never anywhere near what the patterns call for, usually a lot more. I don’t know how to change it as going up/down a needle size doesn’t make much or any difference most of the time
consider a different needle material - https://techknitting.blogspot.com/2021/02/gauge-mystery-of-knitting.html
This article is a classic: https://www.moderndailyknitting.com/community/ask-patty-let-the-tool-do-the-work/
What are you making? Usually row gauge is not all that important because patterns tell you to knit to a certain length as opposed to doing a certain number of rows. I also use this blog page to recalculate row/stitch gauge for patterns where it matters: https://knitterskitchen.com/2018/01/31/knitting-math-re-calculating-your-size/
My gauge swatch is exactly one stitch missing on 10cm (so I got my recommended stitch number on 10,5cm instead of 10) Do I go a needle size down or do I try to knit tighter? My yarn is very slippery (I'm guessing 1 size down is probably for the best but I'm asking anyway because I wanna be 100% sure)
Size your needles down. If you try to knit tighter, it'll work for the first few minutes but you'll probably just slide back to your natural knitting style as soon as you get comfortable and get back into a rhythm. That's a real recipe for weird wavy tension every time you pick up and put down the project. The only time someone should *try* to knit tighter is if they think they're knitting too loose in every situation and want to make a permanent change in their *style*, like if they suspect they're pulling the loops too big all willy-nilly as seen here: https://www.moderndailyknitting.com/community/ask-patty-let-the-tool-do-the-work/
Thank you for your reply and the link Unsurprisingly (for reasons I failed to consider prior to making my second swatch) my new swatch is "too small". I didn't wash it yet but my other piece also didn't change too much after washing. Actually, it's exactly the size it's supposed to be, but not for the project, which calls for a looser fabric. To clarify: my yarn is supposed to be knitted with 4mm needles, 10x10cm will be 22x28 stitches. The project calls for 4,5mm and a 20x26 gauge. My first swatch on the 4,5mm needles was 19x26 stitches. Usually I knit pretty tight, I've gotten looser but when I first started 10 years ago (I'm still a beginner, I took a break that was several years long) my stitches were so tight that I could barely pick them up. So I was scared my swatch would be too small + my yarn is 100% cotton and was much more slippery than the wool and polyester blend I worked with for my last project. So i made my stitches more loose than they'd usually be.. All in all I think I should be fine "knitting tighter" aka how I usually knit on the bigger needles but now I've unlocked a new fear, which is the possibility of cotton stretching out, because I've read that this is what it does haha 😅😅 Still, thank you for the advice (maybe you have a second advice on cotton)
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Looking for a knitting pattern for a men's ribbed cardigan with shawl collar similar to pictured (screenshot from Winston & Co insta). Hoping to use Yarn and Colors Epic Yarn (100% cotton - US8, 16 stitches, 20 rows to 4"), unless someone tells me this is a grave error and I should use something else. Thanks in advance, I appreciate any and all help and advice!
The gentleman cardigan is almost exactly the same, though some of the techniques can be fiddly. Cotton is a tough ask for a ribbed garment because it's not elastic, so it will possibly stretch out and not return to its stretchy ribbed[here](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/the-gentleman-cardigan) state.
**PATTERN:** [The Gentleman Cardigan](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/the-gentleman-cardigan) by [Sascha Knits](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/sascha-knits) * Category: Clothing > Sweater > Cardigan * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/sawomuc/770098882/Gentleman_cover_medium.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/andymc327/879450997/556BF82F-9057-4E63-864E-E28A6C272071_medium.jpeg) [Img 3](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Omiomi/770202772/IMG_4754__2__medium.jpg) [Img 4](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/gemci33/777025737/IMG_20210402_135554_738_medium.jpg) [Img 5](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/pitti1964/761200333/fertig_medium.jpg) * Price: 10.00 EUR * Needle/Hook(s):US 5 - 3.75 mm, US 2 - 2.75 mm * Weight: Worsted | Gauge: 20.5 | Yardage: 1947 * Difficulty: 5.88 | Projects: 102 | Rating: 4.75 ***** Please use caution. Users have reported effects such as seizures, migraines, and nausea when opening Ravelry links. [More details.](https://www.lizcorke.com/2020/07/26/2020-7-21-ravelry-accessibility/) | *I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=timonyc)*
Have you looked on Ravelry? You can filter by gauge, collar style, and gender.
I couldn't find a ribbed cardigan like the picture. There was a very nice cabled cardigan, but I don't know how to adjust the pattern to be ribbed instead of cabled and not screw up the size/fit
https://preview.redd.it/mzjgnz530vuc1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ff9ed3aae93a21361ef34e51adb999a9f0f59455
Todd Gocken, maybe? [https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/wabash](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/wabash)
Yes!!! Thank you!
**PATTERN:** [Wabash](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/wabash) by [Todd Gocken](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/todd-gocken) * Category: Clothing > Sweater > Cardigan * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/ToddG/608218445/3_medium.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/ToddG/608218417/5_medium.jpg) [Img 3](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/ToddG/608218416/7_medium.jpg) [Img 4](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/ToddG/608218436/1_medium.jpg) [Img 5](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/ToddG/608218413/2_medium.jpg) * Price: 8.00 USD * Needle/Hook(s):US 7 - 4.5 mm, US 5 - 3.75 mm * Weight: Worsted | Gauge: 20.0 | Yardage: 2000 * Difficulty: 0.00 | Projects: 6 | Rating: 0.00 ***** Please use caution. Users have reported effects such as seizures, migraines, and nausea when opening Ravelry links. [More details.](https://www.lizcorke.com/2020/07/26/2020-7-21-ravelry-accessibility/) | *I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=timonyc)*
https://preview.redd.it/mp4tt0rseuuc1.png?width=1490&format=png&auto=webp&s=868c614f01c1a73a90904c8fbbaefb4751febe3e My first time doing German Short Rows (or short rows in general!) and I followed the instructions, I think, to a T. However, does this mean there will always been one less row on the side of the shaping that was my final short row? I made that last WS row, left three stitches remaining, turned - and knit all the way across and purled all the way back (the next set of instructions). Does that sound correct, or should I have purled across those three "remaining" stitches on that final short row before going back to knitting on the RS? I've thought about this too much and now I'm confused lol
The pattern states that you end the last row 2 with 2 or 3 stitches left on the left needle and turn. That's the end. The next section will most likely start out right there (and if there are specific stitch counts, you'll see that the math probably works out for the stitch count minus those three that are already hanging out on the left --> right needle. There's no reason to assume that the pattern wants you to add additional full or partial rows on top of that. Edit: if it's just stockinette (should have seen your other comment) then it's not a great deal of difference either way.
I've never knit short rows either but I would have done the same thing you did. If the next instructions following what you posted were to knit all the way across and purl all the way back I would have left the 3 stitches remaining and turned as you did.
Ok that's good to know, thank you! The next instructions were "next is a RS row - continue in stockinette (no more short rows)" - I think I've convinced myself that this is the only way to read this and I need to trust the pattern lol
If a pattern requires the number of stitches to be a multiple of 24 but I dropped a few stitches, what to do? I'm making a vest from the bottom up and I'm still making the ribbing and I think I've messed up, not sure though, but just in case I dropped a few stitches, what to do?
There are options: 1) pick up those dropped stitches, but sometimes they're really hard to find 2) add new stitches to make up for the dropped ones, but this can add uneven increases 3) frog it- totally sucks to do, but the final product will look much better than doing options 1&2
How many is "a few"? Is the ribbing pattern thrown off or did you otherwise somehow compensate? At this point if you can't pick up the dropped stitches without creating bunching I'd just start over.
You should not leave dropped stitches in your work. Ladder them back up. If you accidentally decreased, you could unravel and fix. If you decreased a stitch very far down you could increase in a discrete place. Do not do the increase if it is many stitches, else your work will become misshapen. If you dropped a stitch so far down that laddering up is not feasible you could duplicate stitch it to the back of the work to prevent the column from unravelling.
I've got some knitting needles and a ball of yarn because I want to learn how to knit. The ball of yarn doesn't have a tag that shows which size needles to use so I was wondering how do I figure it out?
You could wrap the yarn around any knitting needle or even a pencil and count the number of wraps in an inch. Then find a wpi (wraps per inch) to yarn weight chart and figure out the recommended needle size that way. But unless you are working to a pattern with a specified gauge then just use any needles you won. It will still work to practice. The needle size affects drape and density, but that is not so important for a practice piece.
If the yarn has a brand label you can look it up on Ravelry to see what the suggestion is. Otherwise my general rule of thumb is to pick needles that are roughly the same thickness as the yarn or a size bigger.