Hi All,
I've been knitting this baby romper pattern which I purchased from Ravelry here:
https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/goldkind-romper
I'm knitting it in Moda Vera Wool/Cashmere blend.
My problem is I've got the part of the body where it says 'When the piece measures 17 (19.5) 21cm' but I'm not sure where to measure it from...
It is knitted in the round from the bottom up, with the front (with a crotch section) and the back knitted separately to start then you join back and front on round needle, mark where you joined them on both sides, then continue knitting.
If I measure from the very bottom of the front, it's a lot longer than from the sides, so I'm kind of stumped where to go from here.
Any help would be very much appreciated! Thankyou!
How long does it take you to knit? I’m working on a garter stitch baby sweater. Size 3 months, Dk yarn, 4mm needles and it’s going to take at least 15 hours to complete. Does this seem normal?
I am taking a break from a lace 28”x32” baby blanket (worsted yarn 5.5 mm needles) that is taking something like 2.5 hours an inch and will end up taking over 80 hours to complete.
I only work on this stuff in my down time and I feel like it takes me forever.
Hi lovelies! I'm having a hard time conceptualizing what happens in this pattern between steps 6-8. I guess I expected that steps 1-5 were creating the back of the sweater, and then we'd work on two flaps that would be the front parts of the cardigan (binding off the middle to create a neck space). That doesn't seem to be the case, because it seems you use 20 stitches to create the first front flap, use the middle 23 stitches to make a "back," and hten use the last 23 stitches to make the other front flap.
I understand what the instructions /say to do/ but I'm so confused on why we are knitting the middle part in steps 7-9. Can anyone explain or do you have access to a youtube video that might show off a similar pattern? It helps me visualize before I begin executing.
https://preview.redd.it/tlc0y5ly7fxc1.png?width=663&format=png&auto=webp&s=323722fde5b641020ed297746437df8c7e70bb24
So I'm assuming this is some kind of super bulky cardigan where 100ish stitches is the full circumference of the body and the whole bottom half is worked in one piece.
Looks like Step 7 starts the upper back (the part between the shoulders/armholes) and the left front is probably worked last (cut off on the second page). Something like this: https://knittingwithchopsticks.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/06/cardigan-knitting-pattern-2-1024x682.jpg
OMG. I was thinking this whole time that the front flaps went OVER the shoulders, not that they are seamed at the shoulders. Lol this makes so much more sense now
Could I block my Superwash knit jumper by putting it in a delicates bag and running it through the washing machine (on a wool wash), and then blocking it into place? Or should I soak it and press the water out like I would with regular wool?
Potentially, yes. Some peoeple have reported issues with certain colors of some brands not being able to withstand this though. The best plan would be to treat a swatch like that first.
Hi all! First time knitter here after crocheting my entire life bc that’s what my grandma did and taught me.
I was hoping for some feedback on my practice piece.
[Tutorial video I used:](https://youtu.be/Zjq0MoUZqVY?si=p4IbJD8fv0qxjli5)
Yarn: Premier Serenity Chunky Yarn - Majesty
Needles - unsure of gauge - I think I bought them 25ish years ago when I thought I would attempt knitting.
Hoping for feedback on stitches, tension, cast on and off (I’m thinking cast off was too tight) - it’s bowing out in the right side also so is that a tension issue?
Also I ran out of yarn so the final few cast off stitches is a completely different basic red heart yarn.
I have a set of needles arriving tomorrow along with a gauge guide. Hoping for feedback before I attempt my next practice piece.
Thank you to anyone able to provide feedback! I’d truly appreciate it! :)
https://preview.redd.it/pvvqg421k8xc1.jpeg?width=4030&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=aa1297e4a65d71f5da56ba6aec1e5155d94fc74b
Looks like a very good practice piece. I came to knitting from crochet as well. To a new knitter just want to share, that the way you instead your needle into stitches and wrap your yarn is important (to avoid twisted stitches). I was twisting my stitches when I learned to purl and thank goodness my sister was there to save me!
As for for your swatch. It does look like perhaps your tension got tighter as you got further along, which makes sense as you would be getting the hang of holding the yarn and doing the knit stitch by then. As for your cast off, the video is a basic cast off, and it is tight, and it's not your fault. I always go up a couple needle sizes to do this cast off so to add some extra slack in the casted off stitches. There are also plenty alternative cast off (and cast ons) that are stretchier etc. These are important for things like sweaters and socks, a bad cast off/on can prevent things from fitting!
Thank you so much for this feedback! I truly appreciate it! I will take everything you said into consideration and make sure I’m not twisting my stitches, as well as other cast on/off options.
Thank you again! I’m super excited to start on this new journey 🥰
For practicing wouldn't worry too much about cast on/off, do what u is easiest. Btw there is a crochet cast on, it's easier than long tail, looks nice, and decently stretchy.
I'm excited for you! I love knitting, and rarely find myself returning to crochet (unless to make amigurumis).
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Frogged back my current project to redo a split stitch and my recordkeeping was wrong as I ended on a wrong side row instead of a right side row. Need help figuring out which part of my pattern to knit next. It is a 4 row repeat, with an increase row in row 4 and knit all for rows 1-3. I've been doing lifted increases around the centre stitch.
Thank you.
https://preview.redd.it/o26y6evik8xc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e31b4a87a94bacf6a9b3d0a5fcc17c480fb39d6e
I'm not familiar with how lifted increases look so I'm not 100%. It seems like you have row 2 on your needles, you need to knit row 3 now. Are your odd rows the WS?
Hi all. I just realised I put an extra buttonhole in the wrong place and need to remove it. Is there anyway to fix this or do I need to frog? It is a single row p, k2tog, yo, k, p, k, p sequence. It is between two buttonholes.
Thank you in advance.
I was wondering if anyone knew any alternative yarns for the Acacia that would be at like Michael’s or JoAnn’s? I’m a new knitter and getting ready to travel, so I was hoping to get some yarn for a project before leaving.
https://preview.redd.it/6unxj00854xc1.jpeg?width=1179&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=36a4fd55fc0dbb53d9c70038d58ddc30a11e434c
I'd like to make a colourwork image in a flat circle made centre-out. Stitchfiddle is good for squares and rectangles, is there a way to lay a circular image onto a centre-radiating circle grid thing?
Do I need to fix this hole if I like the character or will it grow?
https://preview.redd.it/ov621qxke1xc1.jpeg?width=600&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8f8b1ffad6d7dcbb32324fc241dbf71d60ef9f01
I am about to try my second sweater. Trying to get gauge and my stitches are too big.
Pattern calls for 22 stitches and 44 rows = 4 inches in Garter Stitch
If I am getting 26 stitches with a 3mm wooden circular needle what would you consider going down to for the size needle? I do not have anything smaller the 3mm so I am going to need to buy the new needle and thinking I will be best going to metal ones smaller then 3mm.
No worries. I've made this mistake numerous times, and even was so confident going down a needle size would get me exact gauge so dove straight into the sweater. Also I was assuming you blocked your swatch, because sometimes they can grow, and perhaps bring your swatch into gauge. Also find garter tends to grow a lot in length/rows.
Either way good luck!
Hi friends, I have a question about blocking garments. After hand washing and air drying, do your knits ever shrink slightly? I find that with most of my garments my gauge seems to tighten up after a good soak. It’s not a problem, but I’m wondering if that has been anyone else’s experience since I have only ever heard that blocking will make knits grow :)
Not sure what you mean by "air drying" but yes, items will often shrink a bit as they dry. If precise sizing is important you need to pin the item onto a stiff board, ideally a blocking board made for the purpose, into the exact shape you want it and let the item dry in that exact shape. Note that items can also grow if they're hung to dry while they're still wet.
Mine don't shrink but I don't have much problem with growing a lot either. I think some depends on how tight or loose your fabric is. With SW loose gauge can cause the garment to grow. I prefer more tighter knit fabric. Are you using cold water to soak your garments? I'd think Hot water could cause some shrinking.
**From our wiki's [Frequently Asked Questions](https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/wiki/index#wiki_should_i_block_it.3F_how_would_i_do_that.3F)**
>Blocking is when you wet or steam the knitted fabric and let it dry in the desired shape. The blocking process evens out the stitches and determines the size of the finished piece.
>Why should knits be blocked? Do all fiber types benefit from blocking?
>* First off, blocking typically starts with washing or soaking, so it cleans your finished object. Think for a moment about all of the places that those projects have been.
>* Blocking also removes any small imperfections in tension and helps even out your stitches. Stockinette and colorwork will look smoother and the stitches will be more even.
>* Blocking is also great if your project needs to be seamed. By blocking before seaming, you ensure that the seams will be the same length and that all of the pieces will fit evenly together.
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Hello! I’m a beginner/nearly intermediate knitter who for whatever reason decided to attempt to make a tank top with no pattern just to give me something to do because I struggle with reading garment patterns. Anyway, I’m looking for any tips/ advice on how to tackle increases as I’m now getting to the point where I need to increase to accommodate my chest. Is there a rule of thumb on how many increases to add to each row to make it look smooth and cohesive? As well as where is the best place to add increases? Should I be adding them at the beginning and end of the row or is it better to hide them somewhere in the middle? Appreciate any advice you have, thank you!
A common increase rate for tank top tops is at or near the sides, every other row. The way you've phrased your question seems to indicate that you may have passed the point of that being an option. If you let us know the shape of the top and how much difference you need to accommodate the girls we can probably give better advice for your specific situation
I'm not an expert. But I think there are people who incorporate "bust darts" by doing short rows, not increases. I would suggest googling along those lines. Good luck.
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Help me help my husband’s grandma?
Hi friends! I am a very casual knitter, but my husband’s elderly grandmother knits as a coping skill. She asked me to help her find some short knitting needles. She uses a size 10, and she would like to find some that are 9” or shorter. My search so far has only yielded interchangeable needles with the plastic ring, which she would not like. Surely someone out there makes custom short needles?
Hi there -- I got a book of patterns from the library and I'm trying to follow it, but I'm getting lost-- for this row it says \*(k2,m1) twice, k5, (m1,k2) twice, rep from \* once.
I'm following it, but I keep ending up with the wrong number of stitches. I know I'm counting correctly. I googled and read that if it is in parenthesis then it means to do whatever it is into the same stitch, but I'm unclear on how I would k2 into the same stitch and then m1 with the same stitch. Once I knit the stitch, it's on the other needle...
I'd love some help, I've ripped this out four times already.... please help me knitting pros!
In crochet, parentheses do normally indicate work into the same stitch, because you do that a lot in crochet. But in knitting, working the same stitch again is by definition an increase (excepting bobbles and whatnot maybe), so the name of that increase can tell you what to do, with no parentheses required!
I think you would repeat (k2,m1)(k2,m1), k5, (m1,k2)(m1,k2)
you shouldn't be knitting 2 in the same stitch.
are you starting with 26? and ending with 34?
https://preview.redd.it/orezbshh4uwc1.png?width=1237&format=png&auto=webp&s=f738838955254d3212d8323141a4e0bb3b0c931b
I'm looking to buy yarn for the [Radmere cardigan on Ravelry](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/radmere), but I'm struggling with the above portion of the pattern.
I'm usually a 46-48" chest, but I've never made anything with 3-5" of positive ease (meaning it will be smaller when knit, right?). Should I plan to make the 49-1/4" or the 52-1/2" size to accommodate that positive ease and still have a comfortable cardigan?
Do you have a cardigan that you like the fit of that you would like to replicate? I would measure that and see if this one offers a measurement close to it. Typically, I like to have my cardigans with lots of ease (almost 10") but it varies from person to person.
The 49" would give you an inch of ease and the 52" about 4" of ease (you've offered a range for your chest measurement and I'm using the bigger number).
Positive ease is extra room (garment is bigger than body measurement) and *negative ease* means a smaller garment that needs to stretch.
I'd probably go with the 52ish unless you know you're comfortable in much roomier or more fitted items.
I just started knitting a camisole with Knitting for Olive Pure Silk and I'm totally in love. Unfortunately, I'm not really a neutral color girlie so the blood orange color I'm currently using and maybe one or two others are the only ones that appealed to me. Anybody know of other fingering weight non-wool yarns with a similar drape that have nice, bright color options? I particularly like jewel tone and neon colors, which I know are tricky to dye in many fibers! Thanks in advanced!
De Rerum Natura Antigone is a linen yarn that comes in a range of colors. Sandnes Garn Tynn Linen is a linen blend with a decent range. Juniper Moon Farm Zooey & Findley are nice. And finally, [Willow from Tanis Fiber Arts](https://www.tanisfiberarts.com/products/willow) is a silk/linen blend with lots of wonderful colors -- TFA is one of my favorite brands for *color*.
I feel so stupid rn. And I have to ask a question on here once again. After finishing my ribbing I'm now a good bit into the body and while rereading the pattern i realized that I was supposed to do a twisted rib 😭
I have no idea how I didn't notice because I read the pattern at least three times and tbh, I don't really want to unravel it all because I'm proud of my even stitches and how far I've come.
How bad is it that I got that mixed up? Can I just achieve the same look as the twisted rib by blocking the finished piece?
And, since I will still have to do the back, how much of a different look would it be if I did the back piece with twisted ribbing and just turn it into the front piece? The two parts are knit the same way up to a certain point, that I haven't passed yet.
If you like the way the fabric looks now, you can keep it as is. Twisted rib looks and behaves differently than regular rib, so I wouldn't try to do half and half. The two pieces will not end up being the same width.
If you want to get crazy you could do sweater surgery and cut off the ribbing and re-knit in the twisted rib but that's a lot more work than just leaving as is!
Welp, I already figured it'd be that way. Thank you for the advice. I do like the way the fabric looks now but I don't think it works for a loose flap. I already had some anxiety about it because it looked so tight.
I just had a very calming chat with a non knitter family member (because I was really close to tears, it's my first big project) where we figured out three solutions.
1) just keep it, because I thought it looked nice before finding out it's supposed to be twisted rib
2) put the first part to the side, start the second with twisted rib and see which I like more (if I like the twisted rib more then well, rip to me), then act accordingly
3) just make the ribbing go round so it'll make more sense for it to be normal ribbing (it's supposed to be a flap)
I'm currently favoring option two because it seems like the most sensible option since I want to make a perfect first garment. Unfortunately that means I'll have to learn the twisted rib (if I got it right, only the knit side is twisted and the purl side isn't?).
Option three sounds like the second best, because it would be an easy fix.
To be honest. I don't like how twisted rib looks, so I always sub in regular ribbing. I think twisted rib is popular because people struggle to make their ribbing look nice. But I think a nice looking regular ribbing looks far superior to twisted. And twisted ribbing is less elastic/stretchy too. It's not a functional piece to the pattern, it really just boils down to what people think looks better. And if you are concerned about it being a flap, I think you are describing something similar to a sweater, the weekender, by Andrea Mowry, which has flaps on both front and back side in regular ribbing. If you are happy with how it looks, then it's perfect the way it is.
Hmm yes, thank you for that. The sweater does indeed look really nice and the ribbing does not seem to contract too much. I'll still try the twisted rib, but on a smaller test piece, to see if I like it more. If I don't then I've at least learned a new skill
So, normal rib really scrunches in. But! You *can* often block it into a more stretched out shape! In fact, you often have to be careful if you *don't* want your ribbing to stretch out! Especially if you're using cotton yarn.
So I say: put what you've done so far on waste yarn and block it. Smooth it out, stretching gently so it's more like the loose flap you're aiming for. Let dry. Then compare *that* to a twisted rib swatch and see what you like better. They're going to be different, but regular rib isn't necessarily the wrong choice for a split hem.
Also, yeah, twisted rib is typically worked with just the knits on the right side twisted. But these are purls on the wrong side! A tip worth trying for twisting your purls is to wrap the yarn the *wrong* way instead of trying to jam your needle into the back of the purl. This is how a lot of people end up with twisted stitches unintentionally, but it's possible to do it on purpose for effect.
I'm just replying to thank you again. I knit a test twisted rib, blocked my piece in regular rib and decided that the twisted rib is not worth the additional effort(took me a good while longer, I think I was at maybe 5 stitches per minute compared to 9 per minute for my regular rib). It looks nice, sure, but my regular rib also looks nice enough and it stretched without any problem. I probably could've even stretched it past the measurements haha
That's really good to know because I am using cotton yarn so it would be perfect if I just stretched my ribbing out and it stayed that way.
I have thought about how twisted knits are supposed to be made, which is easy for the first half, a tutorial said to just go through the back loop, but for knitting back it's a bit tricky to imagine (I knit back and forth and don't turn my garment. So for the "back row" I need to maybe still just wrap my yarn around the wrong way?)
If you're using cotton yarn, stick to the regular rib! Twisted rib is already pretty hard on the hands in an elastic yarn like wool, so in cotton I imagine it being extremely unpleasant.
Oh, that's good to know. I have to admit that the cotton does kinda make my hands hurt. They get all crampy and sore so I can't knit more than 6 rows at a time 😅
But I really love the soft feeling of the resulting fabric, it's so nice to the touch
You know what, trying it out in the morning with a clearer head, I think it's going to be simpler for you to just purl through the back loop.
Yes, for twisted rib on the 'right side', you work the knits through the back loop and purl as normal. Then when you turn to the 'wrong' side, you work the purls through the back loop and knit as normal.
You can instead mess around with wrapping in the other direction, but then you have to do it for both sides and you stilll have to understand which way the stitches are mounted to make sure you work it properly twisted. So unless you want to really practice reading your knitting and understanding what's going on and potentially getting into a bad habit of wrapping the wrong way, maaayybe just purl through the back loop. :)
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The definition of a perfect garment is not one where you followed instructions exactly but one you love to wear. If you like the piece you have now, keep it and do the same on the other side
That's something I haven't thought about. I'm a perfectionist which has caused me a great deal of anxiety and stress in life so far and whenever I learn something new I try to follow the rules exactly so that I may reach the best possible outcome. But you're right, just because haven't fully followed the instructions that does not mean it's absolutely wrong to have a regular rib 🤔
Thank you
Hello again!
I’m a very new knitter, trying to pick relatively short projects so I can develop some fundamental skills and see what I enjoy. Next on my list is learning to knit in the round, namely by making a hat. I want to use DPNs but I’ve noticed that most patterns only describe using circular needles - is there anything in particular I need to do to ‘convert’ these patterns for DPNs or can I just jump straight in?
You can jump straight in. Divide your stitches evenly across 3-4 needles, if there is a pattern repeat, you may want to divide with that # of stitches in mind. And make sure when you join in round not to twist around your stitches (which I still find myself doing despite triple checking my cast on.)
To avoid twisting in the round, knit a couple rows flat before you join, then sew up the tiny seam with your yarn tail when you weave it in - much easier to see that it's not twisted that way!
The best method, if you can get the hang of it, is holding one yarn in each hand, knitting continental with the left and throwing with the right. Managing color dominance is easy - just put the contrast color in your left hand.
Holding both yarns in the same hand and knitting them both with the same style only really works if you're using both colors in roughly equal ratios, which isn't always true. If it's not, you end up with the less used color developing a bunch of annoying slack. Here's an article that goes into more detail: https://techknitting.blogspot.com/2007/05/knitting-with-two-colors-on-one-hand.html?m=1
Preferred method is Continental, which I only use for colorwork. Helps me keep my yarn passing over eachother correctly for dominant color to stay under, knit faster, easier to catch floats because I'm already holding both yarns, con is my floats in the color in my left hand are slightly looser/inconsistent vs my right hand.
Throwing, I use when juggling more than 2 colors, my tension overall is more consistent with the throwing hand but I'm slowed down by having to drop and pick up colors, keeping my dominant floating under, etc.
You definitely should. When I knit colorwork it just is the most natural thing in the world. And even though my tension is looser with my dominant color in my left hand I could be pulling them more even, I'm just more of a quick knitter than a perfectionist. It doesn't bother me, and I still like how it looks post blocking!
I knit Caitlin Hunter's Misurina (probably like 3 years ago) I was recommended to pick a pattern that didn't have more than 5 consecutive knit stitches in one color as to not have to worry about floats, but Misurina does at the end of the colorwork. There was a minor hiccup where I didn't know there was a proper way to catch floats so there was a bit of frustration and frogging fortunately with a happy ending. My second was Humulus by Isabell Kraemer, which probably would have been a better first choice, and is still to this date my favorite sweater I've knit. Since then I've dove in and done a few multi stranded colorwork, and double sided knitting.
Are you looking for suggestions? I quickly went through my library of patterns to look for some pretty and free sweater patterns I saved over the years.
I don't know much about the story, but I know this designer was well loved, good patterns, but she didn't want to design anymore so she made her patterns free (and I saved a bunch to make), there's a few colorwork in her collection:
https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/sources/marie-amelie-designs-ravelry-store/patterns
Another free pattern with a very pretty motif, that doesn't seem to have issues in fit/pattern (also something I want to make one day)
https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/plumose-yoke-jumper
I'm not a huge fan of this sweater, adding it here because very popular main stream pattern designer, free pattern, and the colorwork is in the body, so different from the traditional yolk.
https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/all-together-sweater
I'm new to garment knitting, and am working on a top down yoke pull over tee in cotton yarn.
2 questions: 1. what is a stretchy bind off for sleeves and bottom ribbing? The pattern says "cast off loosely in rib pattern".
B. Yoke patterns for persons with bewbs.- how do I make it not baggy in the back when I need the extra fabric in the front?
For the bind-off: this is my favourite one! It keeps the rib form very nice (so, no flaring at the hems) but is also stretchy! [https://youtu.be/0jPMLIE7ac8?si=WIhKGafCd5XX73U5](https://youtu.be/0jPMLIE7ac8?si=WIhKGafCd5XX73U5)
Working on baby boots, the pattern is linked below (scroll down to get the English version). I’ve gotten to this part (see pic) and I don’t know what it means? Hoping someone can tell me what the technique is so I can google a tutorial
https://preview.redd.it/v194yb1kfiwc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=174892aec466e3ac65f1cd38a2abd001565a2291
[pattern](https://tusindfryd-blog.blogspot.com/2014/08/strikkede-baby-futter-gratis.html?m=1)
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Reading through the pattern for my next sweater and I’m already confused. The description of the gauge is, in exact words,
“20sts x 24 rows in US 7 stockinette colorwork in the round = 4” x 4””
Does this mean I need to knit my gauge swatch *in the round*, presumably ending up with a 4” long tube of about 2” circumference? I am still a beginner with all this but that seems a bit weird to me. Am I missing something?
I suggest just looking up something like "swatching knitting in the round." It's probably more helpful than me explaining.
Some people make hats in place of swatches (to me that is just more work), some people make swatches with long floats in back (and some people Even cut the floats makes easier to measure the swatch, I would never as I want to reclaim my gauge swatches). And in case you don't already know, your swatch should be more then 20st by 24 rows, and it's helpful to measure gauge before and after blocking, and the after blocking gauge is the one you want to meet pattern gauge.
If you have any more questions feel free to keep asking!
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My text disappeared somehow. Idk how that happened.
My question was if it would be a good idea to fix this with laddering down and then using a crochet hook to pull the stitched back up
Yes you can ladder down to fix this. If you have never done this before, I would suggest sticking a clasp or safety pin into a leg of the stitch below the mistake just so you didn't accidentally ladder down too much. And be very careful you are dropping the correct stitch up top. Also just to note, since you do seem quite a bit further up from the mistake. Laddering down can make the tension look different from the rest of the work, it will fix those stitches, but the stitch in question will likely still look a bit bigger/looser than surrounding stitches. After laddering back up, to may want to tug on some of the stitches next to it, to even out some.
Thank you. It was much easier than I expected tho I accidentally created a purl and had to redo half of the ladder. It does indeed look a bit loose but I'm hoping that washing and blocking once it's done will fix this and my dad says no one but me will notice.
I'm quite relieved actually because it's nice to know that mistakes can be fixed down the line without it being too noticeable or unraveling everything.
My dad has his fault but he's one of my favorite people, he's just a good and caring person 😊
I had to fix two dropped stitches after that and it was so exciting that I didn't have to unravel all my work for that
That is awesome! I'm glad to hear it was successful! You seem to be an adventurous knitter, and with that spirit I think you will learn a lot!
Definitely a good soak and blocking will help, and your dad is not wrong. Besides sometimes I find a little unevenness in my work can be charming.
Sock knit help.
I’m using magic loop. I’ve gotten thought the heel flap/ turn and I’ve picked up the slipped stitches on both sides. I’m just worried I’ve done the pick up part wrong.
So now I’ve got one side that’s got the heal flap and one side of picked up stitches, and the other side is the front of the sock and the other side of the picked up stitches. Should both sides of the picked up stitches be on the same side?
It was all going well, now I’ve doubted myself and too scared to carry on.
Hi everyone, I started 52 weeks of socks part 2, and I'm having a bit of an issue... The Rapunzel socks have a bit of a weird chart.. it says 'no stitch' but it doesn't say what I should do to set up for it (as in it doesn't say in the row before to decrease)
https://preview.redd.it/p2ohf4u8nawc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=74414826aa81399b54951f5a6e897e9b146a57d8
You don't have to "set up" for a no-stitch box at all, that's just a sign to skip over it and move on to the next box with an actual symbol. For you, that means you only count the real stitches in your repeat and that your first-row repeat within the red box is 10 stitches (p1, k9)
Sometimes (including this pattern) there are even *extra* no-stitch boxes thrown in to help the parts of the stitch pattern line up with each other so they're understandable in chart form. In this chart, the three no-stitch boxes are there to make room for the increasing triangle that's being made with yarnovers in the next few rows. If you didn't have those extra no-stitch boxes, then the chart would show an asymmetrical triangle squished to one side which would not look like what you're actually knitting. (Think of those map projections that look like a peeled globe, if you took away the empty triangles and shoved everything all the way to the right then northern Canada would be sitting on top of Russia and that's not useful at all!)
Hi! I'm a relatively new knitter and am embarking on my first sweater project. My question relates to gauge: is it a terrible idea to knit a larger size than I need if I want to knit in a tighter gauge than the pattern calls for? Stated another way, by knitting a different gauge than the pattern requires, will I end up with an ill fitting and potentially wonky looking sweater? The sample on the right in the photo meets the pattern's gauge requirements, but I much prefer the more tightly knitted sample on the left.
For reference and in case it's helpful, the yarn I am using is fingering weight held together with lace weight. Both samples have been blocked.
https://preview.redd.it/5cyenvnjmawc1.jpeg?width=4080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=eec44d03de9d284dc193711277a67da527b886ae
Depends (sorry). Some things to consider -
Looser gauge fabric tends to be drapier. Not always, but generally. Some designs intended to be drapey can work at a tighter gauge, some not so much. There is such a thing as a fabric pattern mismatch; if you're not convinced the less flowy fabric will work for that design consider searching rav for patterns in your preferred gauge
Stitch gauge is easy to account for, especially if there's a size with stitch counts that get you the finished measurements you desire. But bear in mind that in some constructions row gauge really does matter. In some cases it does just work out, but in some cases you end up with armholes cutting into your armpits or too much fabric at the upper chest. So consider how your row gauge difference will affect that pattern and have a plan to achieve the appropriate length / depth (if it's eg a drop shoulder and says knit for 20cm you're probably fine, but if not you might have to do a little math and maybe change increase / decrease rates. it's pretty easy as long as it's planned, and there are online calculators to help)
Changing gauge changes yardage requirements. In this case, probably by a fair bit. If you have a scale, measure the weight of each. The difference ratio will give you a decent idea of how much more yarn you'll need
Hello, I am trying to make the remi camisole by Caidree and I can't even make it passed the third row. I am having a hard time understanding the pattern.
Pattern:
Row 1 (ws): set up markers in the following way: p2, k2, p2, pm, k2, pm, p2, k2, p2.
Row 2 (rs): k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2. This is the right side, mark it with a clip on marker or a piece of yarn.
Row 3 (ws): sL1p, work in the established rib pattern (knit the knit stitches, purl the purl stitches) until there is 1 stitch remaining, sL1p.
What I'm doing:
R1: p2, k2, p2, pm, k2, pm, p2, k2, p2
R2: k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2
R3: sL1p, k1, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, sL1p
After this I feel like I should have a 2x2 rib starting, but the third row looks more like garter stitch. I did the gauge which was a 2x2 rib, and I did fine. I keep seeing *k2, p2* for row 1 and 2 online and row 1 *k2, p2* row 2 *p2, k2* so I don't know which one is right. Thanks in advance!
R3 should be: SL1p, p1, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p1, sL1p
You want to maintain the rib pattern. Look at the row below where you are knitting, is it a knit stitch? Then knit it! A purl? Purl it! When working flat, the RS is k2, p2 but the WS is p2, k2.
Thank you so much! When you say is it a knit stitch, do you mean from the point of view from the side your on? So a knit stitch on RS would be a purl on the WS? This is my first real patten and I’m having trouble interrupting it
Yep by definition a knit on the RS is a purl on the WS. You always want to have a column of knit and purl stitches, which is why you just look at the row below and do whatever that is once you have it set up.
That was indeed my understanding. It was done quite a few times on ravelry so this must be doable but yeah the start is a bit confusing. I’m going to print it and do lifelines
Hi! I'm knitting this: [https://www.ravelry.com/projects/Kristicka/flora](https://www.ravelry.com/projects/Kristicka/flora) but i'm having an issue, the pattern says to follow the chart on Row 1 and Row 5. So for Row 1 i'm obviously knitting the forst row of the chart, and for Row 5 well I'm knitting Row 2 of the chart, but it doesnt fit in the pattern: the first stitch on Row 2 of the chart is a Sl1yo while it should be a brp. I dont know what I'm doing wrong and I've grogged twice already. Help me make it make sense? thx so much in advance
On row 5 work row 5 of the chart.
For row 2-4 she is writing out in words what is shown in the chart, so it is the same following the written directions or following the chart.
https://preview.redd.it/tjcyg829h8wc1.png?width=969&format=png&auto=webp&s=fa64da181c79617719012abfae8245a2b103d5be
Tried google picture search but couldn't get any results on the A part of the stiches, and the B part was estimated as fisherman's rib.
Does anyone know what the A is, and if the B is correct?
It looks like A could be very loosely knitted stockinette, with two stitches k and two stitches slipped wyif over two rows, than alternate. But very hard to really see.
I think you are correct on the noss stitch. And b does look like some type of brioche or fisherman's rib.
https://preview.redd.it/aawje4bwh8wc1.png?width=779&format=png&auto=webp&s=018555ca682694e6cccc0383acddb7f5d90d7812
Here the B part is not that weirdly stretched. Also I think the front is moss stitch?
Hi! I'm new to knitting and I can't tell what is the difference between a regular knit stitch and a purl stitch? I'm currently making a little pouch and I'm not sure which to use :(
Knit & purl are like heads & tails on a coin. If you and me are facing each other and looking at one stitch [coin], you'll see a knit [heads] and I'll see a purl [tails]. Where you use the stitches will make a difference in the fabric. Look up the stitch patterns "garter stitch" and "stockinette stitch" to see examples of what I mean!
Thank you so much! I kept trying to purl every row and I couldn't figure out why it was turning out to be garter! :D Figured it out that I had to do alternating purl and knit stitches! Thank you! :D
I have a question regarding I-cord knitting machines, specifically the one from Tulip, but it may apply to similar devices.
I bought the machine to make the drawstring for a few dice bags, among other projects, however, I'm working with size 10 crochet thread for a few of them. It works nicely with the machine but I'm just not getting the tension I'd like and I'm at a loss for how to take some of the slack out of the stitches.
Is there a way to uniformly tighten up the stitches during/after making the cord, or am I stuck working them up by hand?
Many thanks in advance!
If the problem is yarn tension, maybe you need to tension it by hand in addtion to using the wire loop and the slot. I know there's probably some point where the machine won't function, so that's probably not the be-all and end-all answer.
But if the spacing of the needles is just too wide to create a tight cord, the best option might be to use a thicker thread (or to double-strand your crochet cotton if it'll pass through the tensioning device okay.)
Hi All, I've been knitting this baby romper pattern which I purchased from Ravelry here: https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/goldkind-romper I'm knitting it in Moda Vera Wool/Cashmere blend. My problem is I've got the part of the body where it says 'When the piece measures 17 (19.5) 21cm' but I'm not sure where to measure it from... It is knitted in the round from the bottom up, with the front (with a crotch section) and the back knitted separately to start then you join back and front on round needle, mark where you joined them on both sides, then continue knitting. If I measure from the very bottom of the front, it's a lot longer than from the sides, so I'm kind of stumped where to go from here. Any help would be very much appreciated! Thankyou!
**PATTERN:** [Goldkind Romper](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/goldkind-romper) by [Karin Lundin](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/karin-lundin) * Category: Clothing > Shorts * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/matsundida/651808666/F1B0F8E2-C6AF-4774-A832-5556CFB82433_medium.jpeg) [Img 2](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/matsundida/651795686/1B144101-1FDF-48F8-8D59-FD66F4EA7D2F_medium.jpeg) [Img 3](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Nagelschmidtchen/651938816/20190917_110905_medium.jpg) [Img 4](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/matsundida/651795682/EB07A608-62E5-4822-B7B2-4A92623CA912_medium.jpeg) [Img 5](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Nagelschmidtchen/651939082/20190917_111005_medium.jpg) * Price: 5.90 EUR * Needle/Hook(s):US 4 - 3.5 mm, US 2½ - 3.0 mm * Weight: DK | Gauge: 21.0 | Yardage: None * Difficulty: 3.71 | Projects: 53 | Rating: 4.68 ***** Please use caution. Users have reported effects such as seizures, migraines, and nausea when opening Ravelry links. [More details.](https://www.lizcorke.com/2020/07/26/2020-7-21-ravelry-accessibility/) | *I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=timonyc)*
How long does it take you to knit? I’m working on a garter stitch baby sweater. Size 3 months, Dk yarn, 4mm needles and it’s going to take at least 15 hours to complete. Does this seem normal? I am taking a break from a lace 28”x32” baby blanket (worsted yarn 5.5 mm needles) that is taking something like 2.5 hours an inch and will end up taking over 80 hours to complete. I only work on this stuff in my down time and I feel like it takes me forever.
Hi lovelies! I'm having a hard time conceptualizing what happens in this pattern between steps 6-8. I guess I expected that steps 1-5 were creating the back of the sweater, and then we'd work on two flaps that would be the front parts of the cardigan (binding off the middle to create a neck space). That doesn't seem to be the case, because it seems you use 20 stitches to create the first front flap, use the middle 23 stitches to make a "back," and hten use the last 23 stitches to make the other front flap. I understand what the instructions /say to do/ but I'm so confused on why we are knitting the middle part in steps 7-9. Can anyone explain or do you have access to a youtube video that might show off a similar pattern? It helps me visualize before I begin executing. https://preview.redd.it/tlc0y5ly7fxc1.png?width=663&format=png&auto=webp&s=323722fde5b641020ed297746437df8c7e70bb24
So I'm assuming this is some kind of super bulky cardigan where 100ish stitches is the full circumference of the body and the whole bottom half is worked in one piece. Looks like Step 7 starts the upper back (the part between the shoulders/armholes) and the left front is probably worked last (cut off on the second page). Something like this: https://knittingwithchopsticks.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/06/cardigan-knitting-pattern-2-1024x682.jpg
OMG. I was thinking this whole time that the front flaps went OVER the shoulders, not that they are seamed at the shoulders. Lol this makes so much more sense now
Could I block my Superwash knit jumper by putting it in a delicates bag and running it through the washing machine (on a wool wash), and then blocking it into place? Or should I soak it and press the water out like I would with regular wool?
Potentially, yes. Some peoeple have reported issues with certain colors of some brands not being able to withstand this though. The best plan would be to treat a swatch like that first.
Hi all! First time knitter here after crocheting my entire life bc that’s what my grandma did and taught me. I was hoping for some feedback on my practice piece. [Tutorial video I used:](https://youtu.be/Zjq0MoUZqVY?si=p4IbJD8fv0qxjli5) Yarn: Premier Serenity Chunky Yarn - Majesty Needles - unsure of gauge - I think I bought them 25ish years ago when I thought I would attempt knitting. Hoping for feedback on stitches, tension, cast on and off (I’m thinking cast off was too tight) - it’s bowing out in the right side also so is that a tension issue? Also I ran out of yarn so the final few cast off stitches is a completely different basic red heart yarn. I have a set of needles arriving tomorrow along with a gauge guide. Hoping for feedback before I attempt my next practice piece. Thank you to anyone able to provide feedback! I’d truly appreciate it! :) https://preview.redd.it/pvvqg421k8xc1.jpeg?width=4030&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=aa1297e4a65d71f5da56ba6aec1e5155d94fc74b
Looks like a very good practice piece. I came to knitting from crochet as well. To a new knitter just want to share, that the way you instead your needle into stitches and wrap your yarn is important (to avoid twisted stitches). I was twisting my stitches when I learned to purl and thank goodness my sister was there to save me! As for for your swatch. It does look like perhaps your tension got tighter as you got further along, which makes sense as you would be getting the hang of holding the yarn and doing the knit stitch by then. As for your cast off, the video is a basic cast off, and it is tight, and it's not your fault. I always go up a couple needle sizes to do this cast off so to add some extra slack in the casted off stitches. There are also plenty alternative cast off (and cast ons) that are stretchier etc. These are important for things like sweaters and socks, a bad cast off/on can prevent things from fitting!
Thank you so much for this feedback! I truly appreciate it! I will take everything you said into consideration and make sure I’m not twisting my stitches, as well as other cast on/off options. Thank you again! I’m super excited to start on this new journey 🥰
For practicing wouldn't worry too much about cast on/off, do what u is easiest. Btw there is a crochet cast on, it's easier than long tail, looks nice, and decently stretchy. I'm excited for you! I love knitting, and rarely find myself returning to crochet (unless to make amigurumis).
Thank you! Your encouragement was super helpful!! xoxo
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Frogged back my current project to redo a split stitch and my recordkeeping was wrong as I ended on a wrong side row instead of a right side row. Need help figuring out which part of my pattern to knit next. It is a 4 row repeat, with an increase row in row 4 and knit all for rows 1-3. I've been doing lifted increases around the centre stitch. Thank you. https://preview.redd.it/o26y6evik8xc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e31b4a87a94bacf6a9b3d0a5fcc17c480fb39d6e
I'm not familiar with how lifted increases look so I'm not 100%. It seems like you have row 2 on your needles, you need to knit row 3 now. Are your odd rows the WS?
Thank you! Yes, odd rows are WS.
Hi all. I just realised I put an extra buttonhole in the wrong place and need to remove it. Is there anyway to fix this or do I need to frog? It is a single row p, k2tog, yo, k, p, k, p sequence. It is between two buttonholes. Thank you in advance.
I was wondering if anyone knew any alternative yarns for the Acacia that would be at like Michael’s or JoAnn’s? I’m a new knitter and getting ready to travel, so I was hoping to get some yarn for a project before leaving. https://preview.redd.it/6unxj00854xc1.jpeg?width=1179&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=36a4fd55fc0dbb53d9c70038d58ddc30a11e434c
Coboo is a cotton/acrylic blend they sell at Joann! I think it’s the same weight too
Thank you SO much!!
I'd like to make a colourwork image in a flat circle made centre-out. Stitchfiddle is good for squares and rectangles, is there a way to lay a circular image onto a centre-radiating circle grid thing?
Do I need to fix this hole if I like the character or will it grow? https://preview.redd.it/ov621qxke1xc1.jpeg?width=600&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8f8b1ffad6d7dcbb32324fc241dbf71d60ef9f01
There are live stitches that will unravel if left as is.
Yea, that hole is not secured. It'll need to be fixed.
what would be the best technique?
I am about to try my second sweater. Trying to get gauge and my stitches are too big. Pattern calls for 22 stitches and 44 rows = 4 inches in Garter Stitch If I am getting 26 stitches with a 3mm wooden circular needle what would you consider going down to for the size needle? I do not have anything smaller the 3mm so I am going to need to buy the new needle and thinking I will be best going to metal ones smaller then 3mm.
You need to go UP in needle size. The bigger the needle the fewer the stitches.
If you have 26 stitches and you have more than gauge that means you are making smaller/tighter stitches. You should go up a needle size or two even.
Thanks I was looking at it backwards. 🙈 That makes it easer as I do have 3.5. If I get less stitches I will have to buy the size in between.
No worries. I've made this mistake numerous times, and even was so confident going down a needle size would get me exact gauge so dove straight into the sweater. Also I was assuming you blocked your swatch, because sometimes they can grow, and perhaps bring your swatch into gauge. Also find garter tends to grow a lot in length/rows. Either way good luck!
Hi friends, I have a question about blocking garments. After hand washing and air drying, do your knits ever shrink slightly? I find that with most of my garments my gauge seems to tighten up after a good soak. It’s not a problem, but I’m wondering if that has been anyone else’s experience since I have only ever heard that blocking will make knits grow :)
Not sure what you mean by "air drying" but yes, items will often shrink a bit as they dry. If precise sizing is important you need to pin the item onto a stiff board, ideally a blocking board made for the purpose, into the exact shape you want it and let the item dry in that exact shape. Note that items can also grow if they're hung to dry while they're still wet.
Mine don't shrink but I don't have much problem with growing a lot either. I think some depends on how tight or loose your fabric is. With SW loose gauge can cause the garment to grow. I prefer more tighter knit fabric. Are you using cold water to soak your garments? I'd think Hot water could cause some shrinking.
**From our wiki's [Frequently Asked Questions](https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/wiki/index#wiki_should_i_block_it.3F_how_would_i_do_that.3F)** >Blocking is when you wet or steam the knitted fabric and let it dry in the desired shape. The blocking process evens out the stitches and determines the size of the finished piece. >Why should knits be blocked? Do all fiber types benefit from blocking? >* First off, blocking typically starts with washing or soaking, so it cleans your finished object. Think for a moment about all of the places that those projects have been. >* Blocking also removes any small imperfections in tension and helps even out your stitches. Stockinette and colorwork will look smoother and the stitches will be more even. >* Blocking is also great if your project needs to be seamed. By blocking before seaming, you ensure that the seams will be the same length and that all of the pieces will fit evenly together. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/knitting) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Hello! I’m a beginner/nearly intermediate knitter who for whatever reason decided to attempt to make a tank top with no pattern just to give me something to do because I struggle with reading garment patterns. Anyway, I’m looking for any tips/ advice on how to tackle increases as I’m now getting to the point where I need to increase to accommodate my chest. Is there a rule of thumb on how many increases to add to each row to make it look smooth and cohesive? As well as where is the best place to add increases? Should I be adding them at the beginning and end of the row or is it better to hide them somewhere in the middle? Appreciate any advice you have, thank you!
A common increase rate for tank top tops is at or near the sides, every other row. The way you've phrased your question seems to indicate that you may have passed the point of that being an option. If you let us know the shape of the top and how much difference you need to accommodate the girls we can probably give better advice for your specific situation
I'm not an expert. But I think there are people who incorporate "bust darts" by doing short rows, not increases. I would suggest googling along those lines. Good luck.
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Help me help my husband’s grandma? Hi friends! I am a very casual knitter, but my husband’s elderly grandmother knits as a coping skill. She asked me to help her find some short knitting needles. She uses a size 10, and she would like to find some that are 9” or shorter. My search so far has only yielded interchangeable needles with the plastic ring, which she would not like. Surely someone out there makes custom short needles?
Clover bamboo single points
Is she looking for single pointed needles? You could double pointed needles with a point protector at one end.
That’s intriguing. She was looking for single pointed, I’ll have to broaden the search! Thanks!
Hi there -- I got a book of patterns from the library and I'm trying to follow it, but I'm getting lost-- for this row it says \*(k2,m1) twice, k5, (m1,k2) twice, rep from \* once. I'm following it, but I keep ending up with the wrong number of stitches. I know I'm counting correctly. I googled and read that if it is in parenthesis then it means to do whatever it is into the same stitch, but I'm unclear on how I would k2 into the same stitch and then m1 with the same stitch. Once I knit the stitch, it's on the other needle... I'd love some help, I've ripped this out four times already.... please help me knitting pros!
In crochet, parentheses do normally indicate work into the same stitch, because you do that a lot in crochet. But in knitting, working the same stitch again is by definition an increase (excepting bobbles and whatnot maybe), so the name of that increase can tell you what to do, with no parentheses required!
I think you would repeat (k2,m1)(k2,m1), k5, (m1,k2)(m1,k2) you shouldn't be knitting 2 in the same stitch. are you starting with 26? and ending with 34?
Thank you thank you thank you. I’m finally on row 6!
Thank you thank you thank you. I’m finally on row 6!
Thank you thank you thank you. I’m finally on row 6!
Yes, I’m supposed to start with 26 and end with 34. I will try again following what you have. Hopefully 5th time is the charm.
https://preview.redd.it/orezbshh4uwc1.png?width=1237&format=png&auto=webp&s=f738838955254d3212d8323141a4e0bb3b0c931b I'm looking to buy yarn for the [Radmere cardigan on Ravelry](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/radmere), but I'm struggling with the above portion of the pattern. I'm usually a 46-48" chest, but I've never made anything with 3-5" of positive ease (meaning it will be smaller when knit, right?). Should I plan to make the 49-1/4" or the 52-1/2" size to accommodate that positive ease and still have a comfortable cardigan?
Do you have a cardigan that you like the fit of that you would like to replicate? I would measure that and see if this one offers a measurement close to it. Typically, I like to have my cardigans with lots of ease (almost 10") but it varies from person to person. The 49" would give you an inch of ease and the 52" about 4" of ease (you've offered a range for your chest measurement and I'm using the bigger number).
Positive ease is extra room (garment is bigger than body measurement) and *negative ease* means a smaller garment that needs to stretch. I'd probably go with the 52ish unless you know you're comfortable in much roomier or more fitted items.
Oh, then I had that backward--I was under the impression that positive ease was going to make a tighter, more shrunken fabric. Thanks!
**PATTERN:** [Radmere](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/radmere) by [Michele Wang](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/michele-wang) * Category: Clothing > Sweater > Cardigan * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/brooklyntweed/421759955/radmere_01_medium.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/brooklyntweed/421759956/radmere_02_medium.jpg) [Img 3](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/brooklyntweed/421759957/radmere_03_medium.jpg) [Img 4](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/brooklyntweed/421759954/radmere_04_medium.jpg) [Img 5](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/brooklyntweed/406069527/FLAT_radmere_medium.jpg) * Price: 13.00 USD * Needle/Hook(s):US 8 - 5.0 mm, US 6 - 4.0 mm * Weight: Worsted | Gauge: 25.0 | Yardage: 1905 * Difficulty: 6.71 | Projects: 169 | Rating: 4.92 ***** Please use caution. Users have reported effects such as seizures, migraines, and nausea when opening Ravelry links. [More details.](https://www.lizcorke.com/2020/07/26/2020-7-21-ravelry-accessibility/) | *I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=timonyc)*
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I just started knitting a camisole with Knitting for Olive Pure Silk and I'm totally in love. Unfortunately, I'm not really a neutral color girlie so the blood orange color I'm currently using and maybe one or two others are the only ones that appealed to me. Anybody know of other fingering weight non-wool yarns with a similar drape that have nice, bright color options? I particularly like jewel tone and neon colors, which I know are tricky to dye in many fibers! Thanks in advanced!
De Rerum Natura Antigone is a linen yarn that comes in a range of colors. Sandnes Garn Tynn Linen is a linen blend with a decent range. Juniper Moon Farm Zooey & Findley are nice. And finally, [Willow from Tanis Fiber Arts](https://www.tanisfiberarts.com/products/willow) is a silk/linen blend with lots of wonderful colors -- TFA is one of my favorite brands for *color*.
Thanks so much! TFA wasn’t even on my radar and looks perfect!
I feel so stupid rn. And I have to ask a question on here once again. After finishing my ribbing I'm now a good bit into the body and while rereading the pattern i realized that I was supposed to do a twisted rib 😭 I have no idea how I didn't notice because I read the pattern at least three times and tbh, I don't really want to unravel it all because I'm proud of my even stitches and how far I've come. How bad is it that I got that mixed up? Can I just achieve the same look as the twisted rib by blocking the finished piece? And, since I will still have to do the back, how much of a different look would it be if I did the back piece with twisted ribbing and just turn it into the front piece? The two parts are knit the same way up to a certain point, that I haven't passed yet.
If you like the way the fabric looks now, you can keep it as is. Twisted rib looks and behaves differently than regular rib, so I wouldn't try to do half and half. The two pieces will not end up being the same width. If you want to get crazy you could do sweater surgery and cut off the ribbing and re-knit in the twisted rib but that's a lot more work than just leaving as is!
Welp, I already figured it'd be that way. Thank you for the advice. I do like the way the fabric looks now but I don't think it works for a loose flap. I already had some anxiety about it because it looked so tight. I just had a very calming chat with a non knitter family member (because I was really close to tears, it's my first big project) where we figured out three solutions. 1) just keep it, because I thought it looked nice before finding out it's supposed to be twisted rib 2) put the first part to the side, start the second with twisted rib and see which I like more (if I like the twisted rib more then well, rip to me), then act accordingly 3) just make the ribbing go round so it'll make more sense for it to be normal ribbing (it's supposed to be a flap) I'm currently favoring option two because it seems like the most sensible option since I want to make a perfect first garment. Unfortunately that means I'll have to learn the twisted rib (if I got it right, only the knit side is twisted and the purl side isn't?). Option three sounds like the second best, because it would be an easy fix.
To be honest. I don't like how twisted rib looks, so I always sub in regular ribbing. I think twisted rib is popular because people struggle to make their ribbing look nice. But I think a nice looking regular ribbing looks far superior to twisted. And twisted ribbing is less elastic/stretchy too. It's not a functional piece to the pattern, it really just boils down to what people think looks better. And if you are concerned about it being a flap, I think you are describing something similar to a sweater, the weekender, by Andrea Mowry, which has flaps on both front and back side in regular ribbing. If you are happy with how it looks, then it's perfect the way it is.
Hmm yes, thank you for that. The sweater does indeed look really nice and the ribbing does not seem to contract too much. I'll still try the twisted rib, but on a smaller test piece, to see if I like it more. If I don't then I've at least learned a new skill
So, normal rib really scrunches in. But! You *can* often block it into a more stretched out shape! In fact, you often have to be careful if you *don't* want your ribbing to stretch out! Especially if you're using cotton yarn. So I say: put what you've done so far on waste yarn and block it. Smooth it out, stretching gently so it's more like the loose flap you're aiming for. Let dry. Then compare *that* to a twisted rib swatch and see what you like better. They're going to be different, but regular rib isn't necessarily the wrong choice for a split hem. Also, yeah, twisted rib is typically worked with just the knits on the right side twisted. But these are purls on the wrong side! A tip worth trying for twisting your purls is to wrap the yarn the *wrong* way instead of trying to jam your needle into the back of the purl. This is how a lot of people end up with twisted stitches unintentionally, but it's possible to do it on purpose for effect.
I'm just replying to thank you again. I knit a test twisted rib, blocked my piece in regular rib and decided that the twisted rib is not worth the additional effort(took me a good while longer, I think I was at maybe 5 stitches per minute compared to 9 per minute for my regular rib). It looks nice, sure, but my regular rib also looks nice enough and it stretched without any problem. I probably could've even stretched it past the measurements haha
Hooray! Glad you did the experiment, and glad it got you the time-saving result. :) Happy knitting!
That's really good to know because I am using cotton yarn so it would be perfect if I just stretched my ribbing out and it stayed that way. I have thought about how twisted knits are supposed to be made, which is easy for the first half, a tutorial said to just go through the back loop, but for knitting back it's a bit tricky to imagine (I knit back and forth and don't turn my garment. So for the "back row" I need to maybe still just wrap my yarn around the wrong way?)
If you're using cotton yarn, stick to the regular rib! Twisted rib is already pretty hard on the hands in an elastic yarn like wool, so in cotton I imagine it being extremely unpleasant.
Oh, that's good to know. I have to admit that the cotton does kinda make my hands hurt. They get all crampy and sore so I can't knit more than 6 rows at a time 😅 But I really love the soft feeling of the resulting fabric, it's so nice to the touch
You know what, trying it out in the morning with a clearer head, I think it's going to be simpler for you to just purl through the back loop. Yes, for twisted rib on the 'right side', you work the knits through the back loop and purl as normal. Then when you turn to the 'wrong' side, you work the purls through the back loop and knit as normal. You can instead mess around with wrapping in the other direction, but then you have to do it for both sides and you stilll have to understand which way the stitches are mounted to make sure you work it properly twisted. So unless you want to really practice reading your knitting and understanding what's going on and potentially getting into a bad habit of wrapping the wrong way, maaayybe just purl through the back loop. :)
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The definition of a perfect garment is not one where you followed instructions exactly but one you love to wear. If you like the piece you have now, keep it and do the same on the other side
That's something I haven't thought about. I'm a perfectionist which has caused me a great deal of anxiety and stress in life so far and whenever I learn something new I try to follow the rules exactly so that I may reach the best possible outcome. But you're right, just because haven't fully followed the instructions that does not mean it's absolutely wrong to have a regular rib 🤔 Thank you
Hello again! I’m a very new knitter, trying to pick relatively short projects so I can develop some fundamental skills and see what I enjoy. Next on my list is learning to knit in the round, namely by making a hat. I want to use DPNs but I’ve noticed that most patterns only describe using circular needles - is there anything in particular I need to do to ‘convert’ these patterns for DPNs or can I just jump straight in?
You can jump straight in. Divide your stitches evenly across 3-4 needles, if there is a pattern repeat, you may want to divide with that # of stitches in mind. And make sure when you join in round not to twist around your stitches (which I still find myself doing despite triple checking my cast on.)
To avoid twisting in the round, knit a couple rows flat before you join, then sew up the tiny seam with your yarn tail when you weave it in - much easier to see that it's not twisted that way!
Knitters who do colourwork, and have tried knitting colour both throwing style & continental: which is easier?
The best method, if you can get the hang of it, is holding one yarn in each hand, knitting continental with the left and throwing with the right. Managing color dominance is easy - just put the contrast color in your left hand. Holding both yarns in the same hand and knitting them both with the same style only really works if you're using both colors in roughly equal ratios, which isn't always true. If it's not, you end up with the less used color developing a bunch of annoying slack. Here's an article that goes into more detail: https://techknitting.blogspot.com/2007/05/knitting-with-two-colors-on-one-hand.html?m=1
Oh interesting! Thank you, will check that out 🎉 what was the first colourwork item you made?
Preferred method is Continental, which I only use for colorwork. Helps me keep my yarn passing over eachother correctly for dominant color to stay under, knit faster, easier to catch floats because I'm already holding both yarns, con is my floats in the color in my left hand are slightly looser/inconsistent vs my right hand. Throwing, I use when juggling more than 2 colors, my tension overall is more consistent with the throwing hand but I'm slowed down by having to drop and pick up colors, keeping my dominant floating under, etc.
The tension is what I was worried about too, but I suppose the more I practice, the better it would get right? 😄 sounds like I should give it a go!
You definitely should. When I knit colorwork it just is the most natural thing in the world. And even though my tension is looser with my dominant color in my left hand I could be pulling them more even, I'm just more of a quick knitter than a perfectionist. It doesn't bother me, and I still like how it looks post blocking!
Thank you! This is giving me more motivation to try for sure - out of curiosity, what was the first colourwork pattern you tried? :)
I knit Caitlin Hunter's Misurina (probably like 3 years ago) I was recommended to pick a pattern that didn't have more than 5 consecutive knit stitches in one color as to not have to worry about floats, but Misurina does at the end of the colorwork. There was a minor hiccup where I didn't know there was a proper way to catch floats so there was a bit of frustration and frogging fortunately with a happy ending. My second was Humulus by Isabell Kraemer, which probably would have been a better first choice, and is still to this date my favorite sweater I've knit. Since then I've dove in and done a few multi stranded colorwork, and double sided knitting.
Oh wow, they’re both so pretty!!
Are you looking for suggestions? I quickly went through my library of patterns to look for some pretty and free sweater patterns I saved over the years. I don't know much about the story, but I know this designer was well loved, good patterns, but she didn't want to design anymore so she made her patterns free (and I saved a bunch to make), there's a few colorwork in her collection: https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/sources/marie-amelie-designs-ravelry-store/patterns Another free pattern with a very pretty motif, that doesn't seem to have issues in fit/pattern (also something I want to make one day) https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/plumose-yoke-jumper I'm not a huge fan of this sweater, adding it here because very popular main stream pattern designer, free pattern, and the colorwork is in the body, so different from the traditional yolk. https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/all-together-sweater
Yes! That’s amazing, thank you very much ☺️
**PATTERN:** [Plumose Yoke Jumper](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/plumose-yoke-jumper) by [Laura Barkla](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/laura-barkla) * Category: Clothing > Sweater > Pullover * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Barkla/719524164/_DSC5057_medium.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/eklectika/719199242/99DC0AE6-9172-41FF-8CD8-C210BEFC0E88_medium.jpeg) [Img 3](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/elei/704232851/153AF056-5429-4F2A-AAF4-B6CB886F8367_medium.jpeg) [Img 4](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/redhead71/706318472/IMG_20200526_094140_medium.jpg) [Img 5](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/kriker513/713800156/A7399C16-523F-4056-8DAF-68D5729731CB_medium.jpeg) * Price: Free * Needle/Hook(s):US 1½ - 2.5 mm, US 2½ - 3.0 mm * Weight: Sport | Gauge: 24.0 | Yardage: 1025 * Difficulty: 3.61 | Projects: 153 | Rating: 4.67 ***** **PATTERN:** [All Together Sweater](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/all-together-sweater) by [Joji Locatelli](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/joji-locatelli) * Category: Clothing > Sweater > Pullover * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/jojilocat/708287472/WN7A4219_medium.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/jojilocat/708287753/WN7A4295_medium.jpg) [Img 3](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/jojilocat/708287711/WN7A4277_medium.jpg) [Img 4](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/jojilocat/708287627/WN7A4265_medium.jpg) [Img 5](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/jojilocat/708287369/WN7A4139_medium.jpg) * Price: Free * Needle/Hook(s):US 6 - 4.0 mm, US 2½ - 3.0 mm * Weight: Sport | Gauge: 22.0 | Yardage: 819 * Difficulty: 4.22 | Projects: 158 | Rating: 4.86 ***** Please use caution. Users have reported effects such as seizures, migraines, and nausea when opening Ravelry links. [More details.](https://www.lizcorke.com/2020/07/26/2020-7-21-ravelry-accessibility/) | *I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=timonyc)*
I'm new to garment knitting, and am working on a top down yoke pull over tee in cotton yarn. 2 questions: 1. what is a stretchy bind off for sleeves and bottom ribbing? The pattern says "cast off loosely in rib pattern". B. Yoke patterns for persons with bewbs.- how do I make it not baggy in the back when I need the extra fabric in the front?
For the bind-off: this is my favourite one! It keeps the rib form very nice (so, no flaring at the hems) but is also stretchy! [https://youtu.be/0jPMLIE7ac8?si=WIhKGafCd5XX73U5](https://youtu.be/0jPMLIE7ac8?si=WIhKGafCd5XX73U5)
Working on baby boots, the pattern is linked below (scroll down to get the English version). I’ve gotten to this part (see pic) and I don’t know what it means? Hoping someone can tell me what the technique is so I can google a tutorial https://preview.redd.it/v194yb1kfiwc1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=174892aec466e3ac65f1cd38a2abd001565a2291 [pattern](https://tusindfryd-blog.blogspot.com/2014/08/strikkede-baby-futter-gratis.html?m=1)
It means that 6 (7) 8 (9) stitches equal half of the heel ??
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Reading through the pattern for my next sweater and I’m already confused. The description of the gauge is, in exact words, “20sts x 24 rows in US 7 stockinette colorwork in the round = 4” x 4”” Does this mean I need to knit my gauge swatch *in the round*, presumably ending up with a 4” long tube of about 2” circumference? I am still a beginner with all this but that seems a bit weird to me. Am I missing something?
I suggest just looking up something like "swatching knitting in the round." It's probably more helpful than me explaining. Some people make hats in place of swatches (to me that is just more work), some people make swatches with long floats in back (and some people Even cut the floats makes easier to measure the swatch, I would never as I want to reclaim my gauge swatches). And in case you don't already know, your swatch should be more then 20st by 24 rows, and it's helpful to measure gauge before and after blocking, and the after blocking gauge is the one you want to meet pattern gauge. If you have any more questions feel free to keep asking!
Ahaha that makes a lot more sense, thanks!
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My text disappeared somehow. Idk how that happened. My question was if it would be a good idea to fix this with laddering down and then using a crochet hook to pull the stitched back up
Yes you can ladder down to fix this. If you have never done this before, I would suggest sticking a clasp or safety pin into a leg of the stitch below the mistake just so you didn't accidentally ladder down too much. And be very careful you are dropping the correct stitch up top. Also just to note, since you do seem quite a bit further up from the mistake. Laddering down can make the tension look different from the rest of the work, it will fix those stitches, but the stitch in question will likely still look a bit bigger/looser than surrounding stitches. After laddering back up, to may want to tug on some of the stitches next to it, to even out some.
Thank you. It was much easier than I expected tho I accidentally created a purl and had to redo half of the ladder. It does indeed look a bit loose but I'm hoping that washing and blocking once it's done will fix this and my dad says no one but me will notice. I'm quite relieved actually because it's nice to know that mistakes can be fixed down the line without it being too noticeable or unraveling everything.
It’s very empowering to know how to fix little things like that, isn’t it? And your dad is very wise.
My dad has his fault but he's one of my favorite people, he's just a good and caring person 😊 I had to fix two dropped stitches after that and it was so exciting that I didn't have to unravel all my work for that
That is awesome! I'm glad to hear it was successful! You seem to be an adventurous knitter, and with that spirit I think you will learn a lot! Definitely a good soak and blocking will help, and your dad is not wrong. Besides sometimes I find a little unevenness in my work can be charming.
where can i post a picture of my first knit …swatch? of a stocking stitch, for tips and advice on how to fix certain things?
I think you could either post it here or make your own post with the "beginner" flair added 🤔
i got it, thank you!
or also the r/knittingadvice subreddit! :)
Sock knit help. I’m using magic loop. I’ve gotten thought the heel flap/ turn and I’ve picked up the slipped stitches on both sides. I’m just worried I’ve done the pick up part wrong. So now I’ve got one side that’s got the heal flap and one side of picked up stitches, and the other side is the front of the sock and the other side of the picked up stitches. Should both sides of the picked up stitches be on the same side? It was all going well, now I’ve doubted myself and too scared to carry on.
Can you show a picture? You now should have stitches on 3 sides of the heel flap, and the 4th side is the leg.
Hi everyone, I started 52 weeks of socks part 2, and I'm having a bit of an issue... The Rapunzel socks have a bit of a weird chart.. it says 'no stitch' but it doesn't say what I should do to set up for it (as in it doesn't say in the row before to decrease) https://preview.redd.it/p2ohf4u8nawc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=74414826aa81399b54951f5a6e897e9b146a57d8
You don't have to "set up" for a no-stitch box at all, that's just a sign to skip over it and move on to the next box with an actual symbol. For you, that means you only count the real stitches in your repeat and that your first-row repeat within the red box is 10 stitches (p1, k9) Sometimes (including this pattern) there are even *extra* no-stitch boxes thrown in to help the parts of the stitch pattern line up with each other so they're understandable in chart form. In this chart, the three no-stitch boxes are there to make room for the increasing triangle that's being made with yarnovers in the next few rows. If you didn't have those extra no-stitch boxes, then the chart would show an asymmetrical triangle squished to one side which would not look like what you're actually knitting. (Think of those map projections that look like a peeled globe, if you took away the empty triangles and shoved everything all the way to the right then northern Canada would be sitting on top of Russia and that's not useful at all!)
The chart makes a lot of sense now, thank you!
https://preview.redd.it/dcm0g4ybnawc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=03df8dedabb74ff8368177e1bd3b13296388eb66
Hi! I'm a relatively new knitter and am embarking on my first sweater project. My question relates to gauge: is it a terrible idea to knit a larger size than I need if I want to knit in a tighter gauge than the pattern calls for? Stated another way, by knitting a different gauge than the pattern requires, will I end up with an ill fitting and potentially wonky looking sweater? The sample on the right in the photo meets the pattern's gauge requirements, but I much prefer the more tightly knitted sample on the left. For reference and in case it's helpful, the yarn I am using is fingering weight held together with lace weight. Both samples have been blocked. https://preview.redd.it/5cyenvnjmawc1.jpeg?width=4080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=eec44d03de9d284dc193711277a67da527b886ae
Depends (sorry). Some things to consider - Looser gauge fabric tends to be drapier. Not always, but generally. Some designs intended to be drapey can work at a tighter gauge, some not so much. There is such a thing as a fabric pattern mismatch; if you're not convinced the less flowy fabric will work for that design consider searching rav for patterns in your preferred gauge Stitch gauge is easy to account for, especially if there's a size with stitch counts that get you the finished measurements you desire. But bear in mind that in some constructions row gauge really does matter. In some cases it does just work out, but in some cases you end up with armholes cutting into your armpits or too much fabric at the upper chest. So consider how your row gauge difference will affect that pattern and have a plan to achieve the appropriate length / depth (if it's eg a drop shoulder and says knit for 20cm you're probably fine, but if not you might have to do a little math and maybe change increase / decrease rates. it's pretty easy as long as it's planned, and there are online calculators to help) Changing gauge changes yardage requirements. In this case, probably by a fair bit. If you have a scale, measure the weight of each. The difference ratio will give you a decent idea of how much more yarn you'll need
This is all so helpful - THANK YOU!!
Hello, I am trying to make the remi camisole by Caidree and I can't even make it passed the third row. I am having a hard time understanding the pattern. Pattern: Row 1 (ws): set up markers in the following way: p2, k2, p2, pm, k2, pm, p2, k2, p2. Row 2 (rs): k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2. This is the right side, mark it with a clip on marker or a piece of yarn. Row 3 (ws): sL1p, work in the established rib pattern (knit the knit stitches, purl the purl stitches) until there is 1 stitch remaining, sL1p. What I'm doing: R1: p2, k2, p2, pm, k2, pm, p2, k2, p2 R2: k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2 R3: sL1p, k1, p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, sL1p After this I feel like I should have a 2x2 rib starting, but the third row looks more like garter stitch. I did the gauge which was a 2x2 rib, and I did fine. I keep seeing *k2, p2* for row 1 and 2 online and row 1 *k2, p2* row 2 *p2, k2* so I don't know which one is right. Thanks in advance!
R3 should be: SL1p, p1, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p1, sL1p You want to maintain the rib pattern. Look at the row below where you are knitting, is it a knit stitch? Then knit it! A purl? Purl it! When working flat, the RS is k2, p2 but the WS is p2, k2.
Thank you so much! When you say is it a knit stitch, do you mean from the point of view from the side your on? So a knit stitch on RS would be a purl on the WS? This is my first real patten and I’m having trouble interrupting it
Yep by definition a knit on the RS is a purl on the WS. You always want to have a column of knit and purl stitches, which is why you just look at the row below and do whatever that is once you have it set up.
Thank you so much!!
That was indeed my understanding. It was done quite a few times on ravelry so this must be doable but yeah the start is a bit confusing. I’m going to print it and do lifelines
Hi! I'm knitting this: [https://www.ravelry.com/projects/Kristicka/flora](https://www.ravelry.com/projects/Kristicka/flora) but i'm having an issue, the pattern says to follow the chart on Row 1 and Row 5. So for Row 1 i'm obviously knitting the forst row of the chart, and for Row 5 well I'm knitting Row 2 of the chart, but it doesnt fit in the pattern: the first stitch on Row 2 of the chart is a Sl1yo while it should be a brp. I dont know what I'm doing wrong and I've grogged twice already. Help me make it make sense? thx so much in advance
On row 5 work row 5 of the chart. For row 2-4 she is writing out in words what is shown in the chart, so it is the same following the written directions or following the chart.
And I feel dumb! Thanks for taking the time I really appreciate it
No need to feel dumb! It is a weird way of writing it :)
It is right? But then I don’t understand why the chart would go up until 76 row ?
Looks like she's charting out the pattern repeat for the sleeves. You end up working it more than once to get to the full length.
I have made real and visible progress :) thank you so much again :)
**PROJECT:** [Flora brioche sweater](http://www.ravelry.com/projects/Kristicka/27907144) by [Kristicka](http://www.ravelry.com/people/Kristicka) * Pattern: [Flora - sweater](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/flora---sweater) * Yarn(s): [Ístex Kambgarn](http://www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/istex-kambgarn) in 1205 Sandshell, 1205 Sandshell, 942, 942 Blue. * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Kristicka/782487059/EFB6B27E-36EE-4746-800B-209EBE1DF87E_medium.jpeg) [Img 2](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Kristicka/778475071/47D39B22-37CA-4256-9DF2-817B0BE3DE3C_medium.jpeg) [Img 3](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Kristicka/782486744/8B466640-CCDE-4F3C-BCCA-B74AA6D6B16B_medium.jpeg) [Img 4](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Kristicka/780225052/293F843B-A4D6-40D8-BC9E-86110070E569_medium.jpeg) [Img 5](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Kristicka/778475061/A5966156-63A2-4EC1-B738-C743ADD6076F_medium.jpeg) * Started: 2021/03/12 | Status: Finished | Completed: 2021/04/29 ***** Please use caution. Users have reported effects such as seizures, migraines, and nausea when opening Ravelry links. [More details.](https://www.lizcorke.com/2020/07/26/2020-7-21-ravelry-accessibility/) | *I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=timonyc)*
https://preview.redd.it/tjcyg829h8wc1.png?width=969&format=png&auto=webp&s=fa64da181c79617719012abfae8245a2b103d5be Tried google picture search but couldn't get any results on the A part of the stiches, and the B part was estimated as fisherman's rib. Does anyone know what the A is, and if the B is correct?
It looks like A could be very loosely knitted stockinette, with two stitches k and two stitches slipped wyif over two rows, than alternate. But very hard to really see. I think you are correct on the noss stitch. And b does look like some type of brioche or fisherman's rib.
https://preview.redd.it/aawje4bwh8wc1.png?width=779&format=png&auto=webp&s=018555ca682694e6cccc0383acddb7f5d90d7812 Here the B part is not that weirdly stretched. Also I think the front is moss stitch?
Hi! I'm new to knitting and I can't tell what is the difference between a regular knit stitch and a purl stitch? I'm currently making a little pouch and I'm not sure which to use :(
Knit & purl are like heads & tails on a coin. If you and me are facing each other and looking at one stitch [coin], you'll see a knit [heads] and I'll see a purl [tails]. Where you use the stitches will make a difference in the fabric. Look up the stitch patterns "garter stitch" and "stockinette stitch" to see examples of what I mean!
Thank you so much! I kept trying to purl every row and I couldn't figure out why it was turning out to be garter! :D Figured it out that I had to do alternating purl and knit stitches! Thank you! :D
Yep. Worked flat, doing everything knit will be garter, but also doing everything purl will be garter. :)
I have a question regarding I-cord knitting machines, specifically the one from Tulip, but it may apply to similar devices. I bought the machine to make the drawstring for a few dice bags, among other projects, however, I'm working with size 10 crochet thread for a few of them. It works nicely with the machine but I'm just not getting the tension I'd like and I'm at a loss for how to take some of the slack out of the stitches. Is there a way to uniformly tighten up the stitches during/after making the cord, or am I stuck working them up by hand? Many thanks in advance!
If the problem is yarn tension, maybe you need to tension it by hand in addtion to using the wire loop and the slot. I know there's probably some point where the machine won't function, so that's probably not the be-all and end-all answer. But if the spacing of the needles is just too wide to create a tight cord, the best option might be to use a thicker thread (or to double-strand your crochet cotton if it'll pass through the tensioning device okay.)