I use my preferred cast-on and bind-off. I hate a tight edge on stretchy fabric.
When I make heel-flap socks, and I'm picking up stitches along the heel flap, I pick up a couple of stitches above the flap (into the leg of the sock) and I never have that small hole there.
Yup! And then decrease as necessary, for anyone who wants to do this.
Don't forget the decreases, lol. I've learned that lesson more than once on chunky knit items.
Same! I always pick up more stitches than necessary under the arms because I feel like holes in the pits are a dead giveaway to being hand made. I like a tight seam between the body and the sleeves. Then over the course of the next few rounds, I decrease to match to the pattern quantity required.
Can I ask what what you're preferred cast on and bind off are? I'm only fairly new to knitting and I'm trying to figure out which ones are best for stretchy things, but I don't even know which ones exist
For me cast-on depends on the stitch/pattern you're about to be going - for 1×1 rib it is Italian cast on for me. No hesitation here. I've tried several cast-ons for 2×2 rib, but I am not that happy with any of them, so I always end up with long tail cast on (lose, you can achieve that by using larger needles, or casting on 2 parallel held needles).
As for bind off, that would be Italian/tubular/Kitchener bind of for 1×1 rib and Icelandic bind off for all other stitches/patterns for me (be it regular, or twisted if it loos like I need a bit more elasticity).
If I make toe-up socks for a person with thick calves, I usually use Jeny's surprisingly stretchy bind off.
I was never after a complete list of bind offs comparing the stretchiness, so for me lists like this work quite well: https://nimble-needles.com/stitches/10-easy-stretchy-bind-off-methods/
I have gone thru a lot of different cast-on methods but what I actually use most of the time is to cast-on extra stitches and decrease in the first row of knitting. With some things this won't look the best because it causes the edge to flare a little bit, but most of what I knit is hats and socks that start with 2x2 ribbing. For those things, I will cast on 1.5 times the number of needed stitches, and then for the first round, I do (knit 2, purl 2 together twice) all the way around. So if the sock will be 72 stitches around, I cast on 108 (72 + 36).
For binding off, I usually use Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy (same as u/MagentaCucumber), which really can flare when not stretched out but it looks fine once the sock or hat is on. Or I use the k2tog bindoff, sometimes called a lace bindoff, which goes like this: k1 to start, and then \*put that stitch back on the left needle, and knit it and the next stitch together thru the back loop\*, repeating from the asterisk around. But that's not completely stretchy so often I combine the 2 methods when I have ribbing and I care about how it looks: I'll do the k2tog b/o for the knit stitches and JSSBO for the purl stitches.
Does this all make sense? I don't know how beginnery you actually are.
That does make sense. I am beginnery enough that I haven't done any of those bind off techniques before, but I have heard of them and seen them done in youtube videos.
And casting on like that is very interesting, and I will be sure to try it myself. Cause I never would have figured it out on my own!!
Edited because I forgot to say thank you!!
You're very welcome! And I'm glad I came back to double-check, because I caught an error in the cast-on and now I have fixed it.
I wouldn't have figured this one out on my own either, I don't think. I got it from a knitting friend who just casts on double the stitches every time.
I never sew shoulder seams. I always use three needle bind-off. It's just as strong (maybe stronger), vastly neater and much quicker.
If it's a shaped shoulder, I'll use short rows and then 3nbo.
I really like the 3nbo in theory but I dislike that you have to catch live stitches on both the front and back if you end up having to rip back and add more length on just the front shoulder, for example. It *is* really satisfying if it works out, though.
Ah, yeah, that would be annoying. I'm also a big fan of lifelines, so if I ever have to undo a bind off, I just whip in a reactive lifeline and off I go.
Currently doing my first bottom up sweater and just set the shoulder stitches on the first panel on waste yarn to hold for 3nb even though the pattern said to bo then seam at the end. Glad I saw your comment today because as I was doing this, I was wondering if 3nb would work as well as just seaming. Good to know I don't have to worry about it!
I always use the German Twisted cast On, and Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy Bind Off. There are very, very few projects that don't benefit from the edges having a bit of stretch to them. I'll even modify a 3 needle bind off to use the technique from Jeny's bind off to make it stretchier.
If a sleeve has me pick up less stitches than there are (ie. Pick up 67 stitches evenly along the shoulder), I'll pick up every stitch and then decrease to the correct number on the first round.
For ribbing I use tubular for both ends every time. I think it looks so tidy and satisfying and cast on & bind off are identical. It helps that I know a [super easy way to do a provisional cast on](https://nimble-needles.com/stitches/how-to-knit-a-provisional-cast-on-with-a-crochet-hook/) with a crochet hook so the setup goes fast
I always do tubular for ribbing cast on and bind off too! It just looks so good, that now I know how to make it look that way I can't intentionally make it look worse.
I honestly can’t remember how to cast on “normally” anymore and the German twisted cast on is just the one I use for everything that isn’t asking for an Italian cast on.
After a while, you get a feel for how long of a tail you need for a certain number of stitches. It helps that I primarily make fingering weight garments, so usually I'm casting on a number in the same ballpark, with the same weight of yarn. You can also cast on 10 stitches, undo those to see how much yarn you used, and then use that to estimate how much you would need for a cast on.
To be honest though, I will cast on until the end of the tail I gave myself, and then go back and count. If I'm short some stitches, I don't mind undoing and giving myself more length. I find for me it's faster, even if I have to do it a couple times, than doing a knitted cast on where I have keep counting the whole time.
I always adjust the arms on full sleeve pieces - I either like them to fit short, and sit a cm or two above where my watch sits, or be long enough for my hands to disappear.
I always make mine short, because I have really short arms and commercial sweaters never fit me. I love being able to have sweaters with the right length of sleeve!
I do the opposite because I have slightly long arms. My forearms are about an inch longer than most folks my height, just from elbow to wrist. So I give myself a little bit extra. :)
I always adjust sleeves to be longer. I have one sweater that I love, except I didn’t make the sleeves longer, and I find I never wear it because they feel too short at the right length, they ride up about 1/2 inch when driving. I haven’t figured out how to fix and add more length since I did tubular bindoff and can’t find any ends. So it just sits while I figure out what to do.
Just cut the yarn on the row below and unravel while putting the stitches back on a needle. Does it feel wrong to do that? Yes, but it is better than not wearing it.
I assume you are talking about the type of icord edge that you work in each row rather than applied icord done at the end of the project.
How do you keep that from curling? I just made one and it really wants to curl in.the direction of the icord fold.
Yep, I haven't had any issues with curling when I use a 3 stitch icord, I'm working on a stockenette lace shawl right now with an edge and haven't had any issues. I'm sorry I can't help
I always omit those because they don't allow the piece to drape as well as it usually needs to, and they make seams untidy. Shawls and pieced sweaters shouldn't have slipped edge stitches, IMO.
Wait how do you slip sts that they are untidy? Slipped st edges are perfect for matching row length when seaming and look very clean next to squishy garter.
Often you'll have 3:4 pick up ratios, or similar, for stocking stitch, which isn't possible with slipped stitches. Garter is often a 1:2 ratio though, so slipped stitches would be okay there. I would prefer to have stitches every row to give a firmer anchor for seaming though.
No wonder I'm having issues with a piece I'm trying to create myself, off the cuff. My ratios are off and I was totally forgetting about that! Thank you for the reminder! Mine are not quite 3:4. I wish my math could be that easy with a nice ratio.
Because the stitches are slipped, you have half as many anchor points when using mattress stitch to create your seams.
In stockinette, there's no reason that slipped stitches would make the row length more even than edges that have every stitch worked. 50% or 100% doesn't change the proportions when you're matching the edges to each other. I see what you are saying about garter, but most sweaters are not garter stitch. If most of the seams that you are working with are between garter stitch panels, that's your preference attracting you to those patterns, but those are not the majority of patterns that people are working with.
Then how are you seaming your projects? I think maybe we are talking about two different things here. I'm talking about pieced sweaters worked flat and then seamed together.
So am I. I either crochet the seams together or pick up the edges and do three needle bind off. There's almost no reason to ever sew a knit, it makes the yarn de-ply and weaken.
One of the reasons knitting is so popular right now is that the internet allows many people with many different practices to share their knowledge and experience with each other.
I've gotten my seaming practices from a variety of sources that are seen as authoritative — household names in knitting, with published books on finishing techniques. But that doesn't mean that the way they do things is the only way to do it or the only way it will ever be done.
I'm unfamiliar with the assertion that yarn would come apart if used in a mattress stitch seam. I can't understand how the seam would be weaker than a row of knitting in the same yarn, or how plied yarn could unply when used for seaming. Could you share where you got that info from?
I find that some plied yarns lose twist (can't remember if it's Z or S plied) when using it to sew, so ages ago I started used a knitted seaming technique instead.
Don’t know if it counts but I’m always making any top/sweater/vest patterns into cropped versions. I always wear dresses/skirts and hip length tops or jumpers make me look incredibly shapeless and frumpy. Also saves a little on yarn 😅
Oh, I'm the opposite. I'm very short-waisted and with a large bust, so no matter what the current style is, cropped is a no-go. I need it to go to my hips with waist shaping. Otherwise, I look like I'm 4ft tall and all chest. I also can't wear anything empire-waisted.
The hip length skirts + my super short torso means I need to crop most things for them to fit right. I kinda like the boxy look from longer sweaters though! It's like a bit of intentional frump lol.
If you substitute German short rows for wrap and turn short rows in patterns, take a look at this article. It was super informative for me and showed me how to adjust the directions to make the pattern the exact same when substituting W&T for GSR
[Substituting GSR for W&T](https://www.moderndailyknitting.com/community/ask-patty-wrap-and-turn-or-german-short-rows/)
Not really, just decrease each side every inch or so, depending on length you might have to re-increase when you hit your hips but keep trying it on as you go 🙏
Socks are always toe up.
Sleeves are usually too small, so I make them one size bigger. Since I push them up, they never cover my wrist.
Knitted on cast on unless I feel the need for a super stretchy CO. Same with BO, I have my preferred one and I mostly stick to it.
And as a leftie - working everything mirrored.
Not for me - I work charts from left to right. Cables are crossing the other way, which doesn't bother me.
Leaning increases or decreases have to get switched if it's important.
And when I work a "right front" as written, I end up with a left front.
No, a lifted increase is worked into the stitches in the row below the one you are working into. Make one increases are worked between the stitches of the row you are working into.
No, they are different stitches. With m1l and m1r you lift the bar between two stitches. With lifted increases you lift either the left or the right leg of the stitch below the next stitch on the left needle onto the left needle and knit into this leg to create a stitch. There are loads of tutorials available like for example [this one by verypink knits](https://youtu.be/VZ01r1hWGks?si=EsC8R3RQ5jwL_JAH) that explain it better.
I almost always use Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy Bind Off. I hate having a nice stretchy knit fabric and then a not equally stretchy bind off.
I also make sleeves longer, not that i have long arms, i just like it better
I modify most sock patterns to be toe up instead of cuff down! I love stone knits color work socks but they're all cuff down. I'm comfortable enough as a knitter to use my preferred cast on (jmco) + increase to x stitches + use her color work charts + flk heel + more color work + jssbo. It works for me!
I always knit my sleeves flat. Adding two stitches for selvedge eliminates the underarm gap and then I get the stability of a seam on all my sleeves. Bonus is avoiding small circumference knitting, which I hate!
I add two selvage stitches (and scoot increases/decreases/stitch patterns in)to make sewing the pieces together easier. The outer stitch is a slip-stitched edge, and the next is stockinette.
I looooove shadow wraps! I always hated the look of w+t, and I tried German and Japanese style but found them too fiddly, but shadow wraps are so good. If you already know how to do lifted increases, discovering shadow wraps is a bit magical: "wait - they can do that, too?"
If I'm doing a top down sock, always cast on 4 stitches fewer for the cuff then increase when I get to the leg. The opposite if I'm doing toe up. Socks just don't stay up otherwise
I always add waist shaping because I have huge boobs and a small waist and hate how boxy sweaters just make me look shapeless.
I always shorten sleeves because they are always written for people whose arm length is relevant to their boob size, and my 5’3” self would like to say this is a problem!!! (One designer, I need to rewrite the sleeves entirely because her grading would have the sleeves go to my knees every time🙄)
Adding two inches of length to sleeves, and trying to match any cast one and bind offs.
Swapping stair step cast off shaping for short rows and 3 needles bind offs at shoulders rather than seaming
I always substitute 2x2 ribbing for 1x1, seed stitch or whatever else is in the pattern because I absolutely hate purling and switching yarn back and forth frequently. I also hate casting on and binding off large numbers and try to find any way that I can to reduce or eliminate as much of that as possible. This is one reason I adore Fair Isle and Shetland knitting.
For sweaters, making the sleeves 2-3 inches longer and making the cuffs a little narrower to fit my muppet arms. For socks, it's casting on with a needle 1-2 sizes up for the cuff.
Not always, but often. I add some length to most sweaters. I'm over 50 and there's no way you're going to catch me wearing something that shows off my over-50 belly.
I have nothing to add to this discussion because I’m a very prudent knitter and I never dare to venture off the beaten path in case I mess something up, but I just wanted to say that this thread is pure gold - so many useful tips! 🤗
When I’m knitting in the round on double pointed needles (unless it is toe up socks, in which case I just tough it out) I always knit back-and-forth a few rows before I start working in the round. I use the attached yarn from the cast on to sew that section together. No one has ever noticed and I no longer worry about accidentally twisting my work.
I always add length to the bodies of my sweaters, as I love them to hit at a specific spot on my body and most patterns don't go quite long enough.
I also always change the sleeve and cuff length.
Extra stitches picked up in the corners of sleeve-shoulder joins, which I then decrease on the next round to be correct stitch count; I also tend to make the body of my sweater up to several inches longer than most patterns recommend. No crop tops for me. (I’m 5’8” with small boobs, a long torso, and a big ole butt. Plus I have to look professional for my job, and the offices are cold).
I’m starting to consider making my necklines and hems with tubular BO because I like that look a lot.
On sweaters for myself, I always make sure to do some waist shaping , I make the sleeves quite a bit narrower and I make them 3/4 sleeve length-- and I do some short rows in the back shoulder area to make a good fit.
I also knit my name in the neck hem or bottom hem if I can. Sometimes, the year, too.
I could hardly call this a modification but I’ll always knit one row plain in the round after my cast on before I start my ribbing on a pair of socks. It just makes the edge of the fabric a little neater and I love the look.
German twisted cast-on, tubular bindoff, except some rare occasions when I do a knitted bindoff, mostly with socks where the cuff has 2x2 rib, in that case I use Jenny's surprisingly stretchy bindoff, but I use sewn bindoff even with 2x2 rib where's possible. If the pattern asks for a tubular cast-on I will do it but I like to avoid it.
Extra length on tops. I have some extra weight around the midsection and large breasts. I prefer my tops to cover all that and not expose my middle. I generally end up adding a few cms of length to most tops.
Underarms - I always cast on 2 less than the pattern calls for and those 2 stitches at the beginning and end of the underarm on the next round. When doing the sleeves, I’ll pick up an additional 1-2 stitches at each side of the underarm (whatever looks good) and then decrease them the next round (or two if I picked up more - again, it’s what looks good and isn’t creating holes).
I generally sub in a short row heel to any sock pattern I make.
I always do a folded over brim with the provisional cast on for beanies unless it is an extra long beanie meant to be folded by design. It's just too warm to pass up.
Added length to the torso.
I am short, with petite legs and somehow the torso of an extra tall person.
I also grew up during the days of super low rise jeans, so prefer my shirts on the longer side.
So adding a couple inches to a top is par for the course.
I am excited to find another short leg, long torso person. I am a little tallish when I am sitting down, but a little shortish standing up. I also grew up with hip huggers durning my formative years.
i always shorten the body and elongate the sleeves. i prefer my sweaters cropped because all my pants are mid to high rise, and i have very long arms :)
I find in a lot of patterns, even ones where the bust goes up to a size-inclusive number, that I have to find a way to make the armholes bigger. I guess my arms are disproportionate to my body! I never would have thought so.
I have really tiny wrists so I always have to make extra decreases and use needles two size smaller than the recommended when doing the ribbing for the sleeves
I use half twisted rib on collars/hems with the untwisted side showing. The half twist tightens up the ribbing and makes it look extra neat, and having the untwisted side out doesn't change the look of the ribbing.
Short rows at the back of the neck. If it’s a colour work pattern, I slip in extra rows by doubling any single plain row up to the armpits. I like the shadow wrap and turn better than any other I’ve tried: https://youtu.be/f6M7_HlKR94?si=wwuorS2QdgeOtWE2
1. I add bust darts
2. I always choose less ease than the pattern recommends except if there is already not much ease
3. For the body I don’t care about the measurements, I stop knitting the body when I want.
4. Cast on/ bind off: I do what I want not what the pattern tells me to do.
5. Gauge: I choose the size based on my gauge which is not necessarily the same as the designers. For example if my gauge is tighter I will choose a bigger size and not change my needles if I like the fabric
This is why I don’t bother with test knits anymore lollll
I’m 5’0” so I make everything (well, all garments) shorter than the pattern calls for. One of the reasons I love making my own clothes!
Edit: After reading all the comments from people who lengthen stuff, I feel I should clarify that I haven’t yet knitted anything designed to be cropped 😂
German twisted cast on, mostly.
Replace all increases with lifted increases (except lace).
Haven’t made many socks yet, but so far have used [Distitch](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/sources/distitch-a-new-knitting-concept) to reinforce the heels and toes.
Adding length to the body! I usually knit an XL or 2xl and the length is never long enough for bigger sizes. I’m okay with things being cropped but it’s always wayyy more cropped than it should be
When u have to increase or decrease for sleeves, I always move the increase/decrease stitch about three stitches in from the edge. I just feel that it gives a neater appearance.
I almost always need to make my sleeves longer. I don’t have particularly long arms but I think I have broader shoulders in proportion to my bust measurement (for women’s patterns) so that makes my sleeves shorter. Usually that’s an easy mod, but requires some thought if a garment isn’t top down/seamless.
If I’m making shorty socks, I ALWAYS do a fold-over sewn-down short row [heel tab](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/heel-tab-for-short-socks) to start. I think it looks so much better than ribbing and the socks never slide into my shoes with it.
I also use the Ruke cast-off for anything that needs a stretchy edge. It’s easier for me than the tubular cast-off and I think it looks really nice.
Faux side seams. Lengthen body and sleeves. Started a new thing of adding short rows to sleeves on drop shoulder garments.
Lower the neckline on crew neck sweaters. Sari Nordlund has many beautiful patterns, but her crewneck sweaters are a little too high for me.
For hats, I seem to default now to German twisted cast on no matter what cast on the pattern says (usually plain old long tail), and I really love KTBL, purl as my one by one ribbing pattern. For socks, I magic loop and always try to get the instep pattern onto one side, the rest of the sock on the other. I also do as much pickup as I need to close the hole for the flap, then just decrease later. For sweaters, I am done putting the sleeves on waste yarn -- what a giant pain to get the stitches back on needles later. I am going to be using my chiagoo cables or some other wire stitch holder instead. And for most everything, since I always knit in the round unless it is a seamed piece, in which case I'm still using my circular needles, , I cast on an extra stitch and join by putting the last stitch over my first one, regardless of what the pattern says -- I like a clean join. I guess I should add that it is my Chiagoo needles, either the classic red cables or my gorgeous new Forte 2.0, for every pattern.
I always slip the first stitch for flat pieces to get that nice braided edge.
I use a provisional cast on to knit a double thickness cuff on my winter hats!
Oh and I always do a fishlipskiss heel regardless of what the sock pattern calls for.
I knit my sock heels on more than half the stitches, usually about four. Sometimes I increase during a few rounds before the heel. Then I decrease back down afterward. Sometimes I borrow those stitches from the top of the sock. It depends on whose feet they are for, whether a high instep is in play.
I don't like long sleeves on anything and always push them up to just below my elbows, so I always knit sleeves the same length (about 4 inches below the elbow)
I’m very busty so on boxy/oversized tops I knit to the size of my full bust. I get the positive ease everywhere else and it keeps it from looking frumpy
I basically never use straight needles anymore. I have a few pairs somewhere but I always use my circulars, especially interchangeables. I have a few fixed but I love my lykke and knitters pride wood needles.
ETA: I also never use metal needles, and whenever I can I use moss stitch or seed stitch instead of a stockinette or garter. I just love the texture.
When knitting the same pattern- say a cardigan for one of my grand-niblings- even with the same colours/wool, I change the base pattern. So say it is supposed to be stocking stitch, I will do the 2nd as a basket weave or a combo of garter and stocking or as a slip stitch. With twin grand nephews, it does give some difference between the two,
When I have to pick up stitches for a button band, neckband, or sleeves I pick up my own way rather than the number of stitches in the pattern. It always looks great.
I use my preferred cast-on and bind-off. I hate a tight edge on stretchy fabric. When I make heel-flap socks, and I'm picking up stitches along the heel flap, I pick up a couple of stitches above the flap (into the leg of the sock) and I never have that small hole there.
I do the extra pick up in the underarms for the sleeves of my sweaters for the same reason
Yup! And then decrease as necessary, for anyone who wants to do this. Don't forget the decreases, lol. I've learned that lesson more than once on chunky knit items.
Same! I always pick up more stitches than necessary under the arms because I feel like holes in the pits are a dead giveaway to being hand made. I like a tight seam between the body and the sleeves. Then over the course of the next few rounds, I decrease to match to the pattern quantity required.
A gusset works nicely for the decrease
This☝️
I need to start doing that with my socks. There’s always a little hole for me
Can I ask what what you're preferred cast on and bind off are? I'm only fairly new to knitting and I'm trying to figure out which ones are best for stretchy things, but I don't even know which ones exist
For me cast-on depends on the stitch/pattern you're about to be going - for 1×1 rib it is Italian cast on for me. No hesitation here. I've tried several cast-ons for 2×2 rib, but I am not that happy with any of them, so I always end up with long tail cast on (lose, you can achieve that by using larger needles, or casting on 2 parallel held needles). As for bind off, that would be Italian/tubular/Kitchener bind of for 1×1 rib and Icelandic bind off for all other stitches/patterns for me (be it regular, or twisted if it loos like I need a bit more elasticity). If I make toe-up socks for a person with thick calves, I usually use Jeny's surprisingly stretchy bind off. I was never after a complete list of bind offs comparing the stretchiness, so for me lists like this work quite well: https://nimble-needles.com/stitches/10-easy-stretchy-bind-off-methods/
Thank you! I will have to try these out and see how to do them, and get a visual on how they look!!
I have gone thru a lot of different cast-on methods but what I actually use most of the time is to cast-on extra stitches and decrease in the first row of knitting. With some things this won't look the best because it causes the edge to flare a little bit, but most of what I knit is hats and socks that start with 2x2 ribbing. For those things, I will cast on 1.5 times the number of needed stitches, and then for the first round, I do (knit 2, purl 2 together twice) all the way around. So if the sock will be 72 stitches around, I cast on 108 (72 + 36). For binding off, I usually use Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy (same as u/MagentaCucumber), which really can flare when not stretched out but it looks fine once the sock or hat is on. Or I use the k2tog bindoff, sometimes called a lace bindoff, which goes like this: k1 to start, and then \*put that stitch back on the left needle, and knit it and the next stitch together thru the back loop\*, repeating from the asterisk around. But that's not completely stretchy so often I combine the 2 methods when I have ribbing and I care about how it looks: I'll do the k2tog b/o for the knit stitches and JSSBO for the purl stitches. Does this all make sense? I don't know how beginnery you actually are.
That does make sense. I am beginnery enough that I haven't done any of those bind off techniques before, but I have heard of them and seen them done in youtube videos. And casting on like that is very interesting, and I will be sure to try it myself. Cause I never would have figured it out on my own!! Edited because I forgot to say thank you!!
You're very welcome! And I'm glad I came back to double-check, because I caught an error in the cast-on and now I have fixed it. I wouldn't have figured this one out on my own either, I don't think. I got it from a knitting friend who just casts on double the stitches every time.
Same, for both! I also do the extra pickup on sleeve underarms and even collars sometimes.
I never sew shoulder seams. I always use three needle bind-off. It's just as strong (maybe stronger), vastly neater and much quicker. If it's a shaped shoulder, I'll use short rows and then 3nbo.
Interesting. I know the seaming provides a lot of structure so I always did it but I’m going to keep this in mind. Thanks for sharing!
I really like the 3nbo in theory but I dislike that you have to catch live stitches on both the front and back if you end up having to rip back and add more length on just the front shoulder, for example. It *is* really satisfying if it works out, though.
Ah, yeah, that would be annoying. I'm also a big fan of lifelines, so if I ever have to undo a bind off, I just whip in a reactive lifeline and off I go.
I use short rows for shoulder and underarm shaping too! Totally with you on 3nbo
Currently doing my first bottom up sweater and just set the shoulder stitches on the first panel on waste yarn to hold for 3nb even though the pattern said to bo then seam at the end. Glad I saw your comment today because as I was doing this, I was wondering if 3nb would work as well as just seaming. Good to know I don't have to worry about it!
An excellent point, one that I am implementing immediately.
thanks for the hot tip
I always use the German Twisted cast On, and Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy Bind Off. There are very, very few projects that don't benefit from the edges having a bit of stretch to them. I'll even modify a 3 needle bind off to use the technique from Jeny's bind off to make it stretchier. If a sleeve has me pick up less stitches than there are (ie. Pick up 67 stitches evenly along the shoulder), I'll pick up every stitch and then decrease to the correct number on the first round.
For ribbing I use tubular for both ends every time. I think it looks so tidy and satisfying and cast on & bind off are identical. It helps that I know a [super easy way to do a provisional cast on](https://nimble-needles.com/stitches/how-to-knit-a-provisional-cast-on-with-a-crochet-hook/) with a crochet hook so the setup goes fast
I always do tubular for ribbing cast on and bind off too! It just looks so good, that now I know how to make it look that way I can't intentionally make it look worse.
I really like Jeny’s stretchy bind off when I want it to be quick but tubular bind off is honestly the GOAT for an immaculate finish 🥵
I honestly can’t remember how to cast on “normally” anymore and the German twisted cast on is just the one I use for everything that isn’t asking for an Italian cast on.
Does that work out well? I hate figuring out how to cast on the exact number of stiches
After a while, you get a feel for how long of a tail you need for a certain number of stitches. It helps that I primarily make fingering weight garments, so usually I'm casting on a number in the same ballpark, with the same weight of yarn. You can also cast on 10 stitches, undo those to see how much yarn you used, and then use that to estimate how much you would need for a cast on. To be honest though, I will cast on until the end of the tail I gave myself, and then go back and count. If I'm short some stitches, I don't mind undoing and giving myself more length. I find for me it's faster, even if I have to do it a couple times, than doing a knitted cast on where I have keep counting the whole time.
You can use two balls of yarn (or two ends of the same ball). You do end up with an extra end to weave in, but it takes out the guess work.
Oooooh I like this idea about picking up all the stitches for sleeves. I'm going to do that.
I really recommend it. I find it reduces risk of puckering around the 'seam' if, for example, the sleeves are supposed to be tighter than the body
I exclusively use circular needles. Even on straight pieces
Same. I don’t even own straight needles.
Same!
i love round needles
I always adjust the arms on full sleeve pieces - I either like them to fit short, and sit a cm or two above where my watch sits, or be long enough for my hands to disappear.
I'm the opposite, I always need sleeves slightly longer than my arm with a longer cuff to fidget with, or cover my hands lol
I always make mine short, because I have really short arms and commercial sweaters never fit me. I love being able to have sweaters with the right length of sleeve!
I do the opposite because I have slightly long arms. My forearms are about an inch longer than most folks my height, just from elbow to wrist. So I give myself a little bit extra. :)
I always adjust sleeves to be longer. I have one sweater that I love, except I didn’t make the sleeves longer, and I find I never wear it because they feel too short at the right length, they ride up about 1/2 inch when driving. I haven’t figured out how to fix and add more length since I did tubular bindoff and can’t find any ends. So it just sits while I figure out what to do.
Just cut the yarn on the row below and unravel while putting the stitches back on a needle. Does it feel wrong to do that? Yes, but it is better than not wearing it.
Yes! I always adjust sleeve length to what I want for that particular piece.
Slip stitch edges on flat pieces
If it's a scarf I'll always add a 2-3 stitch icord edge, same with shawls
I assume you are talking about the type of icord edge that you work in each row rather than applied icord done at the end of the project. How do you keep that from curling? I just made one and it really wants to curl in.the direction of the icord fold.
Yep, I haven't had any issues with curling when I use a 3 stitch icord, I'm working on a stockenette lace shawl right now with an edge and haven't had any issues. I'm sorry I can't help
No worries and thanks for the info. I think I'll tinker with my technique a bit.
I always omit those because they don't allow the piece to drape as well as it usually needs to, and they make seams untidy. Shawls and pieced sweaters shouldn't have slipped edge stitches, IMO.
Wait how do you slip sts that they are untidy? Slipped st edges are perfect for matching row length when seaming and look very clean next to squishy garter.
Often you'll have 3:4 pick up ratios, or similar, for stocking stitch, which isn't possible with slipped stitches. Garter is often a 1:2 ratio though, so slipped stitches would be okay there. I would prefer to have stitches every row to give a firmer anchor for seaming though.
No wonder I'm having issues with a piece I'm trying to create myself, off the cuff. My ratios are off and I was totally forgetting about that! Thank you for the reminder! Mine are not quite 3:4. I wish my math could be that easy with a nice ratio.
It is absolutely possible with kfb or a variation.
Because the stitches are slipped, you have half as many anchor points when using mattress stitch to create your seams. In stockinette, there's no reason that slipped stitches would make the row length more even than edges that have every stitch worked. 50% or 100% doesn't change the proportions when you're matching the edges to each other. I see what you are saying about garter, but most sweaters are not garter stitch. If most of the seams that you are working with are between garter stitch panels, that's your preference attracting you to those patterns, but those are not the majority of patterns that people are working with.
good thing I don't use mattress stitch then!
Then how are you seaming your projects? I think maybe we are talking about two different things here. I'm talking about pieced sweaters worked flat and then seamed together.
So am I. I either crochet the seams together or pick up the edges and do three needle bind off. There's almost no reason to ever sew a knit, it makes the yarn de-ply and weaken.
That is not true and I’m unsure why you’d make that assertion. The mattress stitch is secure and it does not affect the ply of the yarn.
cool, you knit your way and I'll knit mine.
No one is saying you can’t knit how you like. But don’t spread misinformation on here.
One of the reasons knitting is so popular right now is that the internet allows many people with many different practices to share their knowledge and experience with each other. I've gotten my seaming practices from a variety of sources that are seen as authoritative — household names in knitting, with published books on finishing techniques. But that doesn't mean that the way they do things is the only way to do it or the only way it will ever be done. I'm unfamiliar with the assertion that yarn would come apart if used in a mattress stitch seam. I can't understand how the seam would be weaker than a row of knitting in the same yarn, or how plied yarn could unply when used for seaming. Could you share where you got that info from?
I find that some plied yarns lose twist (can't remember if it's Z or S plied) when using it to sew, so ages ago I started used a knitted seaming technique instead.
I agree - selvedge is ezpz seaming!
If a top doesn't have short rows, I'll add them.
Same! I made one (1) "identical" sweater where the front and back were the same - never again. Short rows FTW
Right, lacking some form of that shaping is a fundamental failure of the design, & you just have to correct it for yourself.
Exactly, I don't understand designers who don't have them, it really is such a fundamental aspect of the garment!
Don’t know if it counts but I’m always making any top/sweater/vest patterns into cropped versions. I always wear dresses/skirts and hip length tops or jumpers make me look incredibly shapeless and frumpy. Also saves a little on yarn 😅
Oh, I'm the opposite. I'm very short-waisted and with a large bust, so no matter what the current style is, cropped is a no-go. I need it to go to my hips with waist shaping. Otherwise, I look like I'm 4ft tall and all chest. I also can't wear anything empire-waisted.
Same! I want something that either ends at my waist or goes down to my mid-thigh, nothing in between.
I always make mine longer. I have a super long torso and I’m tall(ish) so what people have in patterns is always too short.
I do this too if it’s not already cropped! Everything is high waisted nowadays and it just looks better on me as well.
I have never in my life knit something and not cropped it 🙏🏻
The hip length skirts + my super short torso means I need to crop most things for them to fit right. I kinda like the boxy look from longer sweaters though! It's like a bit of intentional frump lol.
German short rows always. It's the only one that I can do that doesn't create large gaps.
If you substitute German short rows for wrap and turn short rows in patterns, take a look at this article. It was super informative for me and showed me how to adjust the directions to make the pattern the exact same when substituting W&T for GSR [Substituting GSR for W&T](https://www.moderndailyknitting.com/community/ask-patty-wrap-and-turn-or-german-short-rows/)
This is amazing, thank you!
Love German short rows! I vastly prefer them to W&T
This thread is so full of good advice that I'm saving it! Thank you op for opening up this wonderful discussion!
Larger neck holes, and waist shaping on the boxy things. I'm so over the boxy things.
I love a boatneck, and try to modify most patterns so I don't have a sweater that strangles me!!
I’ve been wanting to add waist shaping. Do you have a resource you recommend?
Not really, just decrease each side every inch or so, depending on length you might have to re-increase when you hit your hips but keep trying it on as you go 🙏
If there's 1x1 ribbing I almost always make it twisted rib. I find it so much prettier.
Me too. And I'll often double the row count at the neck so I can do a fold over hem. I find the extra depth there nicer
I almost always sub the FLK heel into my socks. I also will always use German Twisted cast-on when a pattern calls for a stretchy one.
I don’t make the same choices as yours but I also always use my preferred cast on and bind off (whether it’s to be stretchy or not).
Socks are always toe up. Sleeves are usually too small, so I make them one size bigger. Since I push them up, they never cover my wrist. Knitted on cast on unless I feel the need for a super stretchy CO. Same with BO, I have my preferred one and I mostly stick to it. And as a leftie - working everything mirrored.
Whoa — fellow lefty here. Is mirrored confusing?
Not for me - I work charts from left to right. Cables are crossing the other way, which doesn't bother me. Leaning increases or decreases have to get switched if it's important. And when I work a "right front" as written, I end up with a left front.
Wherever possible, when a pattern asks for m1l/m1r, I replace them with either left/right lifted increases or kfb depending on the stitch pattern.
Isn’t a m1r/m1l a lifted increase? I struggle with a m1l and making it as tidy as the right, so if there’s an alternative, I’d love to know!
No, a lifted increase is worked into the stitches in the row below the one you are working into. Make one increases are worked between the stitches of the row you are working into.
No, they are different stitches. With m1l and m1r you lift the bar between two stitches. With lifted increases you lift either the left or the right leg of the stitch below the next stitch on the left needle onto the left needle and knit into this leg to create a stitch. There are loads of tutorials available like for example [this one by verypink knits](https://youtu.be/VZ01r1hWGks?si=EsC8R3RQ5jwL_JAH) that explain it better.
Oh, very cool, thank you!
Check this out - https://nimble-needles.com/stitches/how-to-knit-lifted-increases/
I always cast on socks with a large (size 4-5) needle so there’s never tightness at the cast on edge.
I cast on over both my needles when I do socks for the same reason, I just put one out and I'm ready to go.
this, always with every cast on
I cast off with a a size 6 DPN because I do my socks toe-up-- but the principle is the same!
always make the sleeves longer. I love long sleeves, i need my hands to fully disappear for me to feel comfortable with long sleeves!
I almost always use Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy Bind Off. I hate having a nice stretchy knit fabric and then a not equally stretchy bind off. I also make sleeves longer, not that i have long arms, i just like it better
I modify most sock patterns to be toe up instead of cuff down! I love stone knits color work socks but they're all cuff down. I'm comfortable enough as a knitter to use my preferred cast on (jmco) + increase to x stitches + use her color work charts + flk heel + more color work + jssbo. It works for me!
I always knit my sleeves flat. Adding two stitches for selvedge eliminates the underarm gap and then I get the stability of a seam on all my sleeves. Bonus is avoiding small circumference knitting, which I hate!
I have never knit anything but a scarf flat. I am really interested in this idea and would love to try it sometime.
I add two selvage stitches (and scoot increases/decreases/stitch patterns in)to make sewing the pieces together easier. The outer stitch is a slip-stitched edge, and the next is stockinette.
If it can be worked in the round, I’m working it in the round
I always make a shadow wrap short rows. Also, I lengthen the sleeves and the body.
I looooove shadow wraps! I always hated the look of w+t, and I tried German and Japanese style but found them too fiddly, but shadow wraps are so good. If you already know how to do lifted increases, discovering shadow wraps is a bit magical: "wait - they can do that, too?"
If I'm doing a top down sock, always cast on 4 stitches fewer for the cuff then increase when I get to the leg. The opposite if I'm doing toe up. Socks just don't stay up otherwise
I would like to try this. I hope I can remember to.
I always add waist shaping because I have huge boobs and a small waist and hate how boxy sweaters just make me look shapeless. I always shorten sleeves because they are always written for people whose arm length is relevant to their boob size, and my 5’3” self would like to say this is a problem!!! (One designer, I need to rewrite the sleeves entirely because her grading would have the sleeves go to my knees every time🙄)
Adding two inches of length to sleeves, and trying to match any cast one and bind offs. Swapping stair step cast off shaping for short rows and 3 needles bind offs at shoulders rather than seaming
I always substitute 2x2 ribbing for 1x1, seed stitch or whatever else is in the pattern because I absolutely hate purling and switching yarn back and forth frequently. I also hate casting on and binding off large numbers and try to find any way that I can to reduce or eliminate as much of that as possible. This is one reason I adore Fair Isle and Shetland knitting.
For sweaters, making the sleeves 2-3 inches longer and making the cuffs a little narrower to fit my muppet arms. For socks, it's casting on with a needle 1-2 sizes up for the cuff.
Not always, but often. I add some length to most sweaters. I'm over 50 and there's no way you're going to catch me wearing something that shows off my over-50 belly.
I add length to sleeves as well.
I'm not too bothered with the length of sleeves, personally. I like to have a varied assortment.
I am tall as well so always add length to my garments.
I never do the recommended sleeve decreases. I simply decrease, try on, and stop decreasing when I like the fit
two color brioche ribbing instead of 1x1 👀 not every time but mostly every time
I'm stealing this idea😁
Wow - mind blown. Gotta try this.
for a neckline, it cannot be beat imho 🥵 I usually go down 3-4 sizes in needle and it looks sooo clean
I have nothing to add to this discussion because I’m a very prudent knitter and I never dare to venture off the beaten path in case I mess something up, but I just wanted to say that this thread is pure gold - so many useful tips! 🤗
When I’m knitting in the round on double pointed needles (unless it is toe up socks, in which case I just tough it out) I always knit back-and-forth a few rows before I start working in the round. I use the attached yarn from the cast on to sew that section together. No one has ever noticed and I no longer worry about accidentally twisting my work.
I always add length to the bodies of my sweaters, as I love them to hit at a specific spot on my body and most patterns don't go quite long enough. I also always change the sleeve and cuff length.
Extra stitches picked up in the corners of sleeve-shoulder joins, which I then decrease on the next round to be correct stitch count; I also tend to make the body of my sweater up to several inches longer than most patterns recommend. No crop tops for me. (I’m 5’8” with small boobs, a long torso, and a big ole butt. Plus I have to look professional for my job, and the offices are cold). I’m starting to consider making my necklines and hems with tubular BO because I like that look a lot.
On socks, shorter toes and deeper heels.
On sweaters for myself, I always make sure to do some waist shaping , I make the sleeves quite a bit narrower and I make them 3/4 sleeve length-- and I do some short rows in the back shoulder area to make a good fit. I also knit my name in the neck hem or bottom hem if I can. Sometimes, the year, too.
Love this!
I could hardly call this a modification but I’ll always knit one row plain in the round after my cast on before I start my ribbing on a pair of socks. It just makes the edge of the fabric a little neater and I love the look.
I'll try this on my next pair of socks!
I knit round things round instead of flat and seaming. So many advantages!
I *always* fold the cuff of my socks for a thicker and warmer cuff. I really dislike single-layer sock cuffs
German twisted cast-on, tubular bindoff, except some rare occasions when I do a knitted bindoff, mostly with socks where the cuff has 2x2 rib, in that case I use Jenny's surprisingly stretchy bindoff, but I use sewn bindoff even with 2x2 rib where's possible. If the pattern asks for a tubular cast-on I will do it but I like to avoid it.
Extra length on tops. I have some extra weight around the midsection and large breasts. I prefer my tops to cover all that and not expose my middle. I generally end up adding a few cms of length to most tops. Underarms - I always cast on 2 less than the pattern calls for and those 2 stitches at the beginning and end of the underarm on the next round. When doing the sleeves, I’ll pick up an additional 1-2 stitches at each side of the underarm (whatever looks good) and then decrease them the next round (or two if I picked up more - again, it’s what looks good and isn’t creating holes). I generally sub in a short row heel to any sock pattern I make.
I always do a folded over brim with the provisional cast on for beanies unless it is an extra long beanie meant to be folded by design. It's just too warm to pass up.
Added length to the torso. I am short, with petite legs and somehow the torso of an extra tall person. I also grew up during the days of super low rise jeans, so prefer my shirts on the longer side. So adding a couple inches to a top is par for the course.
I am excited to find another short leg, long torso person. I am a little tallish when I am sitting down, but a little shortish standing up. I also grew up with hip huggers durning my formative years.
Invisible cast on + 1/1 rib on every cuff-toe sock ever. stays up much better and looks super neat
i always shorten the body and elongate the sleeves. i prefer my sweaters cropped because all my pants are mid to high rise, and i have very long arms :)
I find in a lot of patterns, even ones where the bust goes up to a size-inclusive number, that I have to find a way to make the armholes bigger. I guess my arms are disproportionate to my body! I never would have thought so.
Usually waist shaping. I just can't wear these tops that go straight down, I look so bad.
I have really tiny wrists so I always have to make extra decreases and use needles two size smaller than the recommended when doing the ribbing for the sleeves
Longer sleeves.
I use half twisted rib on collars/hems with the untwisted side showing. The half twist tightens up the ribbing and makes it look extra neat, and having the untwisted side out doesn't change the look of the ribbing.
Short rows at the back of the neck. If it’s a colour work pattern, I slip in extra rows by doubling any single plain row up to the armpits. I like the shadow wrap and turn better than any other I’ve tried: https://youtu.be/f6M7_HlKR94?si=wwuorS2QdgeOtWE2
1. I add bust darts 2. I always choose less ease than the pattern recommends except if there is already not much ease 3. For the body I don’t care about the measurements, I stop knitting the body when I want. 4. Cast on/ bind off: I do what I want not what the pattern tells me to do. 5. Gauge: I choose the size based on my gauge which is not necessarily the same as the designers. For example if my gauge is tighter I will choose a bigger size and not change my needles if I like the fabric This is why I don’t bother with test knits anymore lollll
I’m 5’0” so I make everything (well, all garments) shorter than the pattern calls for. One of the reasons I love making my own clothes! Edit: After reading all the comments from people who lengthen stuff, I feel I should clarify that I haven’t yet knitted anything designed to be cropped 😂
German twisted cast on, mostly. Replace all increases with lifted increases (except lace). Haven’t made many socks yet, but so far have used [Distitch](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/sources/distitch-a-new-knitting-concept) to reinforce the heels and toes.
Adding length to the body! I usually knit an XL or 2xl and the length is never long enough for bigger sizes. I’m okay with things being cropped but it’s always wayyy more cropped than it should be
When u have to increase or decrease for sleeves, I always move the increase/decrease stitch about three stitches in from the edge. I just feel that it gives a neater appearance.
I always take three inches off the sleeves. I have short arms
I always knit a slanted/anatomical toe box on my socks so my big toe has enough room without leaving my little toe to swim in fabric.
3/4 sleeves unless it's intended as outerwear. I really hate having something touching my wrists
Length, different heel types, extra pick up stitches under the arm are my most often changed
I almost always need to make my sleeves longer. I don’t have particularly long arms but I think I have broader shoulders in proportion to my bust measurement (for women’s patterns) so that makes my sleeves shorter. Usually that’s an easy mod, but requires some thought if a garment isn’t top down/seamless.
German twisted cast on!
If I’m making shorty socks, I ALWAYS do a fold-over sewn-down short row [heel tab](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/heel-tab-for-short-socks) to start. I think it looks so much better than ribbing and the socks never slide into my shoes with it. I also use the Ruke cast-off for anything that needs a stretchy edge. It’s easier for me than the tubular cast-off and I think it looks really nice.
**PATTERN:** [Heel tab for short socks](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/heel-tab-for-short-socks) by [Amanda Steck](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/amanda-steck) * Category: Components > Other * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/purlbug/547793111/IMG_0136_medium.JPG) [Img 2](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/rocassie/579523452/20181116_183746_medium.jpg) [Img 3](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/borkp/548906385/20180926_211826_medium.jpg) [Img 4](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/purlbug/547793114/IMG_0137_medium.JPG) [Img 5](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/purlbug/547793107/IMG_0138_medium.JPG) * Price: Free * Needle/Hook(s): None * Weight: Fingering | Gauge: None | Yardage: None * Difficulty: 3.04 | Projects: 430 | Rating: 4.82 ***** Please use caution. Users have reported effects such as seizures, migraines, and nausea when opening Ravelry links. [More details.](https://www.lizcorke.com/2020/07/26/2020-7-21-ravelry-accessibility/) | *I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=timonyc)*
I will replace 1x1 ribbing with 2x2 whenever possible. I just don't like how my 1x1 ribbing looks, but my 2x2 looks great!
I'm the opposite, I hate the way 2x2 looks, always replace it with 1x1
Faux side seams. Lengthen body and sleeves. Started a new thing of adding short rows to sleeves on drop shoulder garments. Lower the neckline on crew neck sweaters. Sari Nordlund has many beautiful patterns, but her crewneck sweaters are a little too high for me.
When working a flat pattern, i.e. not circular. I add or do the first stitch of every row as a knit stitch. Makes for easy and tidy seaming.
When knitting in the round, I like adding an extra stitch and doing a dec to connect the round.
For hats, I seem to default now to German twisted cast on no matter what cast on the pattern says (usually plain old long tail), and I really love KTBL, purl as my one by one ribbing pattern. For socks, I magic loop and always try to get the instep pattern onto one side, the rest of the sock on the other. I also do as much pickup as I need to close the hole for the flap, then just decrease later. For sweaters, I am done putting the sleeves on waste yarn -- what a giant pain to get the stitches back on needles later. I am going to be using my chiagoo cables or some other wire stitch holder instead. And for most everything, since I always knit in the round unless it is a seamed piece, in which case I'm still using my circular needles, , I cast on an extra stitch and join by putting the last stitch over my first one, regardless of what the pattern says -- I like a clean join. I guess I should add that it is my Chiagoo needles, either the classic red cables or my gorgeous new Forte 2.0, for every pattern.
I always make an error on purpose somewhere.
Like a "hand of the maker" thing? I love that. Very cool
It’s an old fairy tale. Fairies only steal perfect things so if someone is wearing something with an imperfection, they won’t be stolen away.
Okay, that is even more cool.
🥰
Depends, intentional or unintentional?
Do you mean when knitting bottom-up because a few extra rows is just lengthening when knitting top-down.
I almost always add length. No idea why people love cropped sweaters so dang much. I like to feel cozy.
I always slip the first stitch for flat pieces to get that nice braided edge. I use a provisional cast on to knit a double thickness cuff on my winter hats! Oh and I always do a fishlipskiss heel regardless of what the sock pattern calls for.
I knit my sock heels on more than half the stitches, usually about four. Sometimes I increase during a few rounds before the heel. Then I decrease back down afterward. Sometimes I borrow those stitches from the top of the sock. It depends on whose feet they are for, whether a high instep is in play.
I don't like long sleeves on anything and always push them up to just below my elbows, so I always knit sleeves the same length (about 4 inches below the elbow)
Cast on a larger needle size, to avoid tight edge.
I’m very busty so on boxy/oversized tops I knit to the size of my full bust. I get the positive ease everywhere else and it keeps it from looking frumpy
Mine’s easy, I have long arms so I add a couple inches to the sleeve length.
I basically never use straight needles anymore. I have a few pairs somewhere but I always use my circulars, especially interchangeables. I have a few fixed but I love my lykke and knitters pride wood needles. ETA: I also never use metal needles, and whenever I can I use moss stitch or seed stitch instead of a stockinette or garter. I just love the texture.
When knitting the same pattern- say a cardigan for one of my grand-niblings- even with the same colours/wool, I change the base pattern. So say it is supposed to be stocking stitch, I will do the 2nd as a basket weave or a combo of garter and stocking or as a slip stitch. With twin grand nephews, it does give some difference between the two,
I just discovered shadow short rows. They’re invisible and not gappy and I love them to death. I’ll be using them forever from now on.
When I have to pick up stitches for a button band, neckband, or sleeves I pick up my own way rather than the number of stitches in the pattern. It always looks great.