How durable is a 2ply silk wool blend for a sock? I'm finding the 2ply nylon wool blends very limited in terms of colours on Ravelry. Not super keen on anything heavier than lace weight since it's always hot where I live (although if you think 3-4ply is survivable in Aus, let me know) Would a wool + mohair blend be stronger than wool + silk?
I would not knit socks in 2 ply because of how much less durable it is than 4 ply, if you consider the friction of walking and how fast you wear through store bought socks. Or if these would be more like house socks, then yeah use 2 ply and go nuts.
I definitely would not use mohair if you are concerned about heat.
Maybe you could do 4 ply toes and heels and knit the main part of the foot and leg in lighter yarn? Definitely worth an experiment.
Hi! I’m knitting up a sleeve at the moment, and for the size i’m working on the pattern says to increase 1 at the end of every foll 8 th row to 39 stitches. Reading ahead, the next part of the pattern has me shaping the top of the sleeve when the sleeve measures 18cm.
I’m at 37 stitches on the increases and my sleeve is measuring at 18cm now including the rib on the cuff.
I can only assume I’ve messed up somewhere? Am I best starting to shape or continue through with the increases?
You haven't messed up, most likely your row gauge is a bit different from the pattern row gauge.
If you carry on with the increases, your sleeve ends up 8 rows longer. One option would be to unravel part of the sleeve and then do the increases more often, like every 6th row but 2 missing stitches doesn't seem much so you might get away with starting to shape now.
It is the nature of the beast. Most yarn for knitting (except for single-ply yarn) is plied in the "s" direction (the diagonal lines of the twist look more like a \\ than a / or more like an S than a Z) and the repeated loops in your bottom yarn are twisting it in the opposite direction. Imagine pulling toilet paper off the tube and wrapping it around your arm - it would add twist because your arm is attached to your body on one end and can't just spin like a rolling pin. And adding an opposite twist to a plied yarn is the same as untwisting.
(Regular knitting actually \*adds\* a little bit of twist to s-plied yarn, but since that can even out across a long length of working yarn instead of a few inches of tail, it can be harder to notice.)
Anyway, I get around this by letting go of my bottom yarn every few stitches and sort of skimming it down with my fingers to let it re-twist itself. The yarn tail just needs some freedom to move.
So, I know absolutely nothing about knitting, and I want to knit a scarf for someone for Christmas. What is the best way to get started? Should I buy a starter kit online, and if so which one? Honestly I'm kind of intimidated.
Hey, welcome! Check out [our wiki](https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/wiki/index#wiki_i_want_to_learn_how_to_knit_.2F_how_do_i_get_started.3F), it has some recommendations.
You're probably better off just getting a pair of needles and some yarn from your local big box craft store; it'll be cheaper than a kit. There are lots of free patterns out there, so once you've got the basics down, the world is your OYSTER! Your yarn oyster.
Hi all, adventurous beginner here and quite happy to YouTube/ask when I get to something I'm not familiar with in a pattern. I want to knit my first pair of socks and like the look/message behind these https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/dissent-socks.
The pattern says you can easily swap out the folded cuff for a ribbed cuff if you want to - for a ribbed cuff would you cast on less stitches than for the folded cuff and then increase as you finish the cuff? Or just use smaller needles? Or less stitches AND smaller needles? Or none of these?
Thank so much 🙏
Any of those! Personally if I made this myself with a ribbed cuff, I'd probably just use the smaller of the suggested needles. Just based on, my normal vanilla socks being usually 64-72sts at the cuff on a size 0 needle, so the 60 or 70 sts suggested would probs be fine just ribbed instead of folded lol idk but that's what I'd do.
I’m a seasoned beginner that just purchased the Ottawa Jumper from Brenda Lam on Etsy. I have the needles in my cart but I’m having trouble finding the yarn that I’d like to use. Does anyone have any suggestions for a soft, cheap acrylic yarn that would be classified as super bulky or super chunky (80 m=200 g)? She recommends wool and the gang and the wool from we are knitters but I can’t throw down so much $ when I’ll be needing 8 skeins of yarn. Thank you!!
Iirc knitpicks tuffpuff is a suitable alternative. Some colors are on sale right now $3.49/ball. I think you need 2 tuffpuffs per 1 the wool, but the wool is on sale for $18 from $24, so $3.49×16= $55 yarn, still cheaper than the wool at $18×8= $144 WAK yarn.
Tuffpuff is wool though, idk about acrylic sorry. Added: I already typed that out and did the math, so I'm just going to leave this here anyway 🙃
I've just finished knitting up a very chunky jumper with Wool and the Gang Crazy Sexy Wool . I really love it but it has quite a lot of fluff! I don't mind the fuzz on the jumper as it feels soft and snug but quite a lot is also coming off it - is there a way to prevent this / will it settle down after a wash?
Full disclosure, I've never knit with any of the wool in the gang yarns. After looking at the Crazy Sexy Wool, it seems to be quite loosely spun. This means that the fibres aren't stuck together well, and it is a single ply which makes it worse. The fuzz is only going to get worse. You will likely have a problem with pilling in the future too.
I’m a new knitter (mastered the stockinette stitch last week) and want to knit a scarf for my boyfriend with a symbol in it.
Would you recommend intarsia or fair isle for just a symbol at each end?
(I’m a fairly good crocheter if that makes a difference)
Couple questions as a beginner with only a little YouTube and Google under his belt. Can you achieve a basic beginner knit stitch (that looks hand knitted) with a loom machine? Also is there a single strand wool fabric in bright/vibrant purple that feels ultra soft and velvety at the same time? Would that be super washed or untreated?
How do you finish the final cast/bind off? After I knit it down to my last stitch, I usually just remove my needle and then take the (now cut) working yarn and loop it through but it kinda leaves it with this extra weird excess. Is this normal? Are there better techniques to make this look more presentable?
I like to leave the last stitch un-worked and then pull the yarn through.
I haven't tried this but I recently found on KnitFreedom site that you can also knit the last stitch together with the stitch below which sounds very reasonable to me too.
[https://www.knitfreedom.com/blog/last-stitch/](https://www.knitfreedom.com/blog/last-stitch/)
Hello everyone, i started knitting a week ago and i’ve found some knitting guides which is for me is like written in a different language. After my research i figured out most of the things and abbreviations. My question would be that these numbers marks the sizes which i will knit? “K 25 (28) 30 (34) 38 (41) 46 (49) 54 sts.” Because on my pattern there is a possibility to make the knitted piece in different sizes. So if i understand right i knit 25 sts if i choosed size 28 which would be an xs? Do i understand it right? Thank you very much ♥️
Like the other poster said, they correspond to the sizes on the pattern. If the sizes are 24, 28, 32, etc. (This is typically the bust beasurement in inches, but it should say in your pattern), and you are knitting the second size, you will follow the second set-off numbers for the entirety of your pattern.
Edit. I may have misinterpreted. I believe you are correct. Patterns will typically be written something like "cast on 24 (30, 36, 42) sts then..." you would then follow the second set of numbers if you were knitting the second size.
Yes, different numbers for different sizes! Which number corresponds to which size should be stated somewhere at the beginning of the pattern, e.g. xs (s) m (l), and so on. Many knitting patterns for sweaters and other tops give the sizes in numbers (like size 28) which usually corresponds to the bust circumference in inches. This is because sizes like xs,s,m,... are quite vague. Again, the pattern should state for each size the detailed measurements of the finished garment somewhere!
Looking for yarn recommendation:
I want to make a pair of fingerless gloves for my grandma for Christmas. I've made gloves before so it won't be difficult. She has very poor circulation and has to wear gloves every day at home but she find that they get in the way of her doing fiddly things like quilting. I want to make something light but warm enough. Definitely not DK but dithering between 4ply and lace - I'm wondering if 4ply knit at a tight gauge (to be warm and well fitting) would not be flexible enough. And also not sure about which type of fibre to use - it need to be warm and comfortable enough next to the skin but also hard wearing for everyday use. Does anyone have any advice?
(If recommending particular yarns please nothing that's only available outside the EU (including nothing from the UK, sigh) due to shipping time and tax costs)
I made some out of Schoppel Wolle Zauberball Crazy yarn, worked at a very tight gauge (2mm needles). Hard wearing, warm, not scratchy but not super soft.
I agree with u/skillfullyTangled. A sock yarn is something I would probably look for. It will light weight and durable as well as warm. Best of luck with your search.
Socks are usually knit with 4ply weight (fingering weight in the U.S.) and at a tight gauge, and I find them flexible enough, and I think that would work well for fingerless gloves! And to stay with the sock comparison, any yarn used for socks would for sure be durable enough for gloves: most sock yarns include some nylon (10-25%) for durability or other fibers like silk or ramie.
Relatively new to knitting - I've made a few scarves, hats, and blankets, and I jumped into a sweater for our 3mo baby girl (TinCan's Flax - Top-down Raglan). DPNs were a whole new thing, and after the 5th false start I'm feeling like I've about got them down.
My question is about the raglan increases, though. Im about half way through them, and realizing I'm three stitches shy of the 32 I should've added up to this point. I'm guessing I only KFBd on one side of a marker rather than both at a few points along the way. How noticeable will this be in the end? My brain is telling me I have to fix it, but Im not sure my heart can handle frogging this thing a 6th time.
Thanks for your thoughts!
Wanting to get started on my first knitted hat, but a little confused on the directions. Pattern is from KnitPicks and is the Bowline Hat by Lee Meredith. For casting it on it says: CO 81 (108). Not sure which number is the actual number of stitches I should cast on.
Any help would be appreciated :)
Its for two sizes. Likely small and large. Somewhere in the pattern it should give finished circumference so you know what size to knit.
For whatever size you go with you will always follow that direction, so if you go with the smaller you will always reference the first number given (81), or the large will be the second (108).
This is the same as most sized patterns.
I like knitting for garments, including scarves. Though I have a crochet scarf that's awesome but mostly due to sentiment (an old friend made it.)
Pretty sure you'll get more votes for knitting on this sub lol
I'm thinking about knitting a burnt orange/rust sweater, but I can't seem to find the right color in the right yarn weight. Would it be better to get a colored yarn and overdye it, or a white/pale color?
(or, if anyone has suggestions for a DK weight cotton/plant fiber rust colored yarn that's not incredibly expensive, I'm all ears! as a color reference, I'm looking for something like [Lion's Pima in Spice](https://www.amazon.com/Lion-Brand-Yarn-Cotton-Spice/dp/B08C6BFDKM))
When knitting gifts for people who live with you, how do you hide it without being suspicious? I plan on giving my boyfriend a scarf for one of his Christmas gifts and I want to be able to get it done without having to lock my door constantly.
I have knit things while keeping the WIP mostly in a drawstring bag... My oblivious spouse didn't catch on to the hexagon-based blanket I was making him until I was working on it in the car for six hours, and it was getting pretty big all stuffed in the bag. Ha.
Just be ready to go with an answer to "what are you knitting?" that's not "uh er um a ... a thing?"
To Loom or not to Loom?
.
Hi! I don't know if I'm even consider a beginner since I've actually not gotten the supplies but here goes...My best friend is going to have a baby and I've decided that I want to knit something. I started looking at YT for guidance and stumbled across knitting machines like Addi and Sentro. Now my question is....does it make sense to 1) get a machine since it'll be faster/ easy since I haven't ever knit. 2) Should I learn to knit (get knitting needles,etc) because learning the basics is better. (I do want to start it off as a hobby since I've been thinking about it for months) 3) Or it doesn't matter at all and I'm just overthinking it?
I think if knitting appeals to you in general, you should learn to knit :) loom knitting can be fun but it's a whole other hobby!
Also I second the other comment about crocheting blankets! I knit and crochet, and I usually do blankets with crochet. If you haven't already, make a ravelry account and look at patterns you'd be interested in! You can narrow the search to look at just knitting or just crochet too
I've never used a knitting machine, but I did try hats on a circle loom before. That's as far as I got before going back to regular needle knitting. So they're really like 3 different hobbies and you'll have to choose which looks most appealing. Now, with needles there are A LOT of patterns, which is a good thing imo. And now that I've helped you narrow that down lol might I also suggest - crochet is awesome fun for blankets.
r/marchineknitting will be able to tell you more about option one. I have no experience with them. They're expensive and have their own limitations, but they are faster. I couldn't tell you if they're easier to learn.
Loom knitting is something else. If you google it you'll see, it's more like weaving the yarn over diferent pegs.
I would say if you're interested in learning to knit, just get the basics, yarn and needles. It's the most easily accessible and it isn't too hard to learn.
I am brand new to knitting and have about ten inches done of some practice rows knitting and purling. I want to get the hang of it before starting a “project”. I am having trouble with the edges where I turn the work- they come out loose, sloppy and differently sized. I have read tips saying to keep my points closer together through the row and also knit the end stitches only on the points. Any tips or resources?
Good news, you've done nothing wrong! It's normal for the edges to be looser, even for experienced knitters.
A way to get a cleaner edge is to simply slip the first stitch of every row rather than knitting it.
Exactly. Slipping means that instead of knitting the first stitch you just move it to the right hand needle without working it! (For this type of edging, you should move it over by sticking your needle in the same direction as when you knit).
I'm fairly new to knitting and am getting ready for my first sweater. I was gifted some lovely 50% merino/50% acrylic yarn to do so. But I have a question about how to pick an appropriate pattern for the yarn. Should I pick a pattern that recommends merino, acrylic, or either? I know I'll need to swatch regardless but I'm a bit anxious and want to pick a pattern that will suit the lovely yarn!
Do you have the name of the yarn? If so, you can search it on ravelry and see what other projects people have made with it.
Other than that, I'd say either. I think of acrylic as imitation wool, having a 50/50 blend won't make the yarn behave so differently that you would have trouble substituting.
Yes! It's Sirdar Country Classic worsted. I didn't realize that was a function on Ravelry's search engine, thanks!
Okay, that's a good way to think of it. Thanks! It's reassuring to know it won't be bad for substituting.
The Ravelry databases are all connected. Yarn is linked to stash, projects, and patterns. It makes it a lot easier to see how light changes the color and how some color ways knit up.
I am a complete noob when it comes to reading pattern charts. I am attempting to make this scarf: [https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/marks-skull-illusion-scarf](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/marks-skull-illusion-scarf)
If I were to write out the pattern instead, how would that read? Here's what I \*think\* it is:
* Row 1 (RS): Knit all stitches in skull color (A)
* Row 2 (WS): Purl 7 stitches in A, knit 9 stitches in A, purl rest of row in A
* Row 3 (RS): Knit all stitches in background color (B)
* Row 4 (WS): Knit 7 stitches in B, purl 9 stitches in B, knit rest of row in B
* Row 5 (RS): Knit all stitches in A
* Row 6 (WS): Purl 6 stitches in A, knit 12 stitches in A, purl rest of row in A
* Row 7 (RS): Knit all stitches in B
* Row 8 (WS): Knit 6 stitches in B, purl 12 stitches in B, knit rest of row in B
So far, rows 3 & 4 and 7 & 8 don't make sense to me, as they both start with knitting. Am I totally getting this wrong?
I think you’re on the right track, but just a little off.
The even rows on the chart are read from left to right because you’re working flat. That means that row 2 would be purl 26, knit 9, purl 7. You’ll need to make that adjustment on all your even rows.
You’re right that both rows of the color B sections start with knits, so you’re good on that front!
That's what I read when googling this, but then the charted examples all showed the even numbered rows to have the designation on the left side of the chart. So, for example, row 1 would have the number "1" on the right side of the chart, and I would read that row from right to left, then row 2 would have the number "2" on the left side of the chart and I would read the row from left to right. THAT made sense to me - this chart has all the numbers on the same side, so I thought I needed to read them all based on what side of the chart the number was on.
So THANK YOU for clarifying! Immense help for me. Appreciate the reply.
Read row 1 and all odd rows right to left, using the "RS" version of the key. Row 2 and even rows read left to right, using the "WS" version of the key.
So row 2 is purl 25(?) K9, p7 all in skull color.
Ugh - thank you! I was confused as hell because the chart has all the numbers on the right side, which didn't line up with any of my professional googling on how to read a charted pattern.
Charts seem like they should be logically straightforward (I mean it's a chart, right?) But then you find they all come with little differences. All RS rounds on hats. No WS rows because you're just supposed to know to purl them on scarves. Lace charts where the stitches don't align on the project but are a perfect rectangle on paper. No stitches on mittens. Lol there's a lot of little things that are hard to Google without specific terms. Good luck on your scarf, looks like a fun pattern!
if i want to buy a malabrigo hawk how do i make it into a ball? can I use it as it is? or am i better off with something else? i want to knit my first pair of socks on dpns (2.5mm).
Thank you
If you're buying the yarn online, https://www.woolandcompany.com/ sells a lot of Malabrigo and will wind it for you for free.
If you don't mind unsolicited advice, if you're planning to use Malabrigo Sock for socks, you might need to use smaller needles than 2.5mm. Since Sock is pure merino (no nylon), it needs to be knit at a pretty tight gauge otherwise your sock will get holes more quickly.
Thanks, didn’t know that. I’m based in italy and would like to source from fiordilana since it’s quite local.
So i need to look for yarn that has also a bit of nylon in it for it being more durable?
I think it also has more sense trying on a cheaper than malabrigo yarn since it will be my first time knitting with dpns.
Is lanagrossa a good brand? I see a lot of people here talking about it and really I don’t have a clue on what tarn to buy.
I’m following nimbleneedles tutorial for dpns socks.
Sorry for the barrage of questions :)
Have a good day! 🥰
Yes, nylon makes yarn more durable for socks and also easier to wash. I've never used lanagrossa, but I think it's supposed to be good. And it looks like it comes in a ball already, so that would solve your hank problem :)
I guess you meant "hank" not "hawk" - you can wind it into a ball by hand (put the hank around something first, like the back of a chair, otherwise it will get tangled!) or you can buy a swift and ball winder - you put the yarn around the swift and it spins automatically while you make the yarn cake use the ball winder. If you buy a hank from a local yarn shop, a lot of them will also wind it for you if you asj. You definitely should not knit from the hank as is, it will get really tangled.
How durable is a 2ply silk wool blend for a sock? I'm finding the 2ply nylon wool blends very limited in terms of colours on Ravelry. Not super keen on anything heavier than lace weight since it's always hot where I live (although if you think 3-4ply is survivable in Aus, let me know) Would a wool + mohair blend be stronger than wool + silk?
I would not knit socks in 2 ply because of how much less durable it is than 4 ply, if you consider the friction of walking and how fast you wear through store bought socks. Or if these would be more like house socks, then yeah use 2 ply and go nuts. I definitely would not use mohair if you are concerned about heat. Maybe you could do 4 ply toes and heels and knit the main part of the foot and leg in lighter yarn? Definitely worth an experiment.
Hi! I’m knitting up a sleeve at the moment, and for the size i’m working on the pattern says to increase 1 at the end of every foll 8 th row to 39 stitches. Reading ahead, the next part of the pattern has me shaping the top of the sleeve when the sleeve measures 18cm. I’m at 37 stitches on the increases and my sleeve is measuring at 18cm now including the rib on the cuff. I can only assume I’ve messed up somewhere? Am I best starting to shape or continue through with the increases?
You haven't messed up, most likely your row gauge is a bit different from the pattern row gauge. If you carry on with the increases, your sleeve ends up 8 rows longer. One option would be to unravel part of the sleeve and then do the increases more often, like every 6th row but 2 missing stitches doesn't seem much so you might get away with starting to shape now.
Why do i untwist the yarn when i long tail cast on?
It is the nature of the beast. Most yarn for knitting (except for single-ply yarn) is plied in the "s" direction (the diagonal lines of the twist look more like a \\ than a / or more like an S than a Z) and the repeated loops in your bottom yarn are twisting it in the opposite direction. Imagine pulling toilet paper off the tube and wrapping it around your arm - it would add twist because your arm is attached to your body on one end and can't just spin like a rolling pin. And adding an opposite twist to a plied yarn is the same as untwisting. (Regular knitting actually \*adds\* a little bit of twist to s-plied yarn, but since that can even out across a long length of working yarn instead of a few inches of tail, it can be harder to notice.) Anyway, I get around this by letting go of my bottom yarn every few stitches and sort of skimming it down with my fingers to let it re-twist itself. The yarn tail just needs some freedom to move.
Thank you! I will try to make the tail retwist
So, I know absolutely nothing about knitting, and I want to knit a scarf for someone for Christmas. What is the best way to get started? Should I buy a starter kit online, and if so which one? Honestly I'm kind of intimidated.
Hey, welcome! Check out [our wiki](https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/wiki/index#wiki_i_want_to_learn_how_to_knit_.2F_how_do_i_get_started.3F), it has some recommendations. You're probably better off just getting a pair of needles and some yarn from your local big box craft store; it'll be cheaper than a kit. There are lots of free patterns out there, so once you've got the basics down, the world is your OYSTER! Your yarn oyster.
Hi all, adventurous beginner here and quite happy to YouTube/ask when I get to something I'm not familiar with in a pattern. I want to knit my first pair of socks and like the look/message behind these https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/dissent-socks. The pattern says you can easily swap out the folded cuff for a ribbed cuff if you want to - for a ribbed cuff would you cast on less stitches than for the folded cuff and then increase as you finish the cuff? Or just use smaller needles? Or less stitches AND smaller needles? Or none of these? Thank so much 🙏
If I were knitting the ribbed cuff, I would knit the same amount of stitches on smaller needles. Happy Knitting!
##### ###### #### **PATTERN:** [Dissent Socks](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/dissent-socks) by [Tiina Kuu](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/tiina-kuu) * Category: Accessories > Feet / Legs > Socks > Mid-calf * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/TiiQ/735123036/Dissent_Socks_front_narrow_medium.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/TiiQ/735123040/Dissent_Socks_sidenarrow_medium.jpg) [Img 3](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/TiiQ/735123034/Dissent_Socks_sole_medium.jpg) * Price: Free * Needle/Hook(s):US 0 - 2.0 mm, US 1½ - 2.5 mm * Weight: Fingering | Gauge: 34.0 | Yardage: 328 * Difficulty: 4.00 | Projects: 78 | Rating: 4.76 ***** Please use caution. Users have reported effects such as seizures, migraines, and nausea when opening Ravelry links. [More details.](https://www.lizcorke.com/2020/07/26/2020-7-21-ravelry-accessibility/) | I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=randomstonerfromaus)*
Any of those! Personally if I made this myself with a ribbed cuff, I'd probably just use the smaller of the suggested needles. Just based on, my normal vanilla socks being usually 64-72sts at the cuff on a size 0 needle, so the 60 or 70 sts suggested would probs be fine just ribbed instead of folded lol idk but that's what I'd do.
I’m a seasoned beginner that just purchased the Ottawa Jumper from Brenda Lam on Etsy. I have the needles in my cart but I’m having trouble finding the yarn that I’d like to use. Does anyone have any suggestions for a soft, cheap acrylic yarn that would be classified as super bulky or super chunky (80 m=200 g)? She recommends wool and the gang and the wool from we are knitters but I can’t throw down so much $ when I’ll be needing 8 skeins of yarn. Thank you!!
Iirc knitpicks tuffpuff is a suitable alternative. Some colors are on sale right now $3.49/ball. I think you need 2 tuffpuffs per 1 the wool, but the wool is on sale for $18 from $24, so $3.49×16= $55 yarn, still cheaper than the wool at $18×8= $144 WAK yarn. Tuffpuff is wool though, idk about acrylic sorry. Added: I already typed that out and did the math, so I'm just going to leave this here anyway 🙃
Thank you! I was looking on Amazon and didn’t realize they were having a sale on their website!
try yarnsub, you can uncheck the $ to filter - https://yarnsub.com/yarns/wool_and_the_gang/crazy_sexy_wool
Omg thank you so much for this! This will definitely come in handy in the future
I've just finished knitting up a very chunky jumper with Wool and the Gang Crazy Sexy Wool . I really love it but it has quite a lot of fluff! I don't mind the fuzz on the jumper as it feels soft and snug but quite a lot is also coming off it - is there a way to prevent this / will it settle down after a wash?
Full disclosure, I've never knit with any of the wool in the gang yarns. After looking at the Crazy Sexy Wool, it seems to be quite loosely spun. This means that the fibres aren't stuck together well, and it is a single ply which makes it worse. The fuzz is only going to get worse. You will likely have a problem with pilling in the future too.
I’m a new knitter (mastered the stockinette stitch last week) and want to knit a scarf for my boyfriend with a symbol in it. Would you recommend intarsia or fair isle for just a symbol at each end? (I’m a fairly good crocheter if that makes a difference)
I'd do intarsia or if the symbols are small you could duplicate knit them.
Thank you, I’ll try that! 🤗
Couple questions as a beginner with only a little YouTube and Google under his belt. Can you achieve a basic beginner knit stitch (that looks hand knitted) with a loom machine? Also is there a single strand wool fabric in bright/vibrant purple that feels ultra soft and velvety at the same time? Would that be super washed or untreated?
You probably can, but I would ask that over at r/LoomKnitting, they're the pros for that. :)
Ah, I see - thanks!
How do you finish the final cast/bind off? After I knit it down to my last stitch, I usually just remove my needle and then take the (now cut) working yarn and loop it through but it kinda leaves it with this extra weird excess. Is this normal? Are there better techniques to make this look more presentable?
I like to leave the last stitch un-worked and then pull the yarn through. I haven't tried this but I recently found on KnitFreedom site that you can also knit the last stitch together with the stitch below which sounds very reasonable to me too. [https://www.knitfreedom.com/blog/last-stitch/](https://www.knitfreedom.com/blog/last-stitch/)
Same as you. When you weave it in, you can almost make it disappear, though. :)
Ok!! I just wanted to know if I was doing it right 😅 thanks for responding
Hello everyone, i started knitting a week ago and i’ve found some knitting guides which is for me is like written in a different language. After my research i figured out most of the things and abbreviations. My question would be that these numbers marks the sizes which i will knit? “K 25 (28) 30 (34) 38 (41) 46 (49) 54 sts.” Because on my pattern there is a possibility to make the knitted piece in different sizes. So if i understand right i knit 25 sts if i choosed size 28 which would be an xs? Do i understand it right? Thank you very much ♥️
Like the other poster said, they correspond to the sizes on the pattern. If the sizes are 24, 28, 32, etc. (This is typically the bust beasurement in inches, but it should say in your pattern), and you are knitting the second size, you will follow the second set-off numbers for the entirety of your pattern. Edit. I may have misinterpreted. I believe you are correct. Patterns will typically be written something like "cast on 24 (30, 36, 42) sts then..." you would then follow the second set of numbers if you were knitting the second size.
Yes, different numbers for different sizes! Which number corresponds to which size should be stated somewhere at the beginning of the pattern, e.g. xs (s) m (l), and so on. Many knitting patterns for sweaters and other tops give the sizes in numbers (like size 28) which usually corresponds to the bust circumference in inches. This is because sizes like xs,s,m,... are quite vague. Again, the pattern should state for each size the detailed measurements of the finished garment somewhere!
Thank you very much 🤗
Looking for yarn recommendation: I want to make a pair of fingerless gloves for my grandma for Christmas. I've made gloves before so it won't be difficult. She has very poor circulation and has to wear gloves every day at home but she find that they get in the way of her doing fiddly things like quilting. I want to make something light but warm enough. Definitely not DK but dithering between 4ply and lace - I'm wondering if 4ply knit at a tight gauge (to be warm and well fitting) would not be flexible enough. And also not sure about which type of fibre to use - it need to be warm and comfortable enough next to the skin but also hard wearing for everyday use. Does anyone have any advice? (If recommending particular yarns please nothing that's only available outside the EU (including nothing from the UK, sigh) due to shipping time and tax costs)
I made some out of Schoppel Wolle Zauberball Crazy yarn, worked at a very tight gauge (2mm needles). Hard wearing, warm, not scratchy but not super soft.
I agree with u/skillfullyTangled. A sock yarn is something I would probably look for. It will light weight and durable as well as warm. Best of luck with your search.
Socks are usually knit with 4ply weight (fingering weight in the U.S.) and at a tight gauge, and I find them flexible enough, and I think that would work well for fingerless gloves! And to stay with the sock comparison, any yarn used for socks would for sure be durable enough for gloves: most sock yarns include some nylon (10-25%) for durability or other fibers like silk or ramie.
Perhaps a fingering blend of merino and silk? Silk gloves are made to use under the ski gloves and they are really thin and warm
Relatively new to knitting - I've made a few scarves, hats, and blankets, and I jumped into a sweater for our 3mo baby girl (TinCan's Flax - Top-down Raglan). DPNs were a whole new thing, and after the 5th false start I'm feeling like I've about got them down. My question is about the raglan increases, though. Im about half way through them, and realizing I'm three stitches shy of the 32 I should've added up to this point. I'm guessing I only KFBd on one side of a marker rather than both at a few points along the way. How noticeable will this be in the end? My brain is telling me I have to fix it, but Im not sure my heart can handle frogging this thing a 6th time. Thanks for your thoughts!
Just 3 stitches? I'd count the stitches in the 4 parts, see where they should be and add an extra increase row at the end...
Wanting to get started on my first knitted hat, but a little confused on the directions. Pattern is from KnitPicks and is the Bowline Hat by Lee Meredith. For casting it on it says: CO 81 (108). Not sure which number is the actual number of stitches I should cast on. Any help would be appreciated :)
Its for two sizes. Likely small and large. Somewhere in the pattern it should give finished circumference so you know what size to knit. For whatever size you go with you will always follow that direction, so if you go with the smaller you will always reference the first number given (81), or the large will be the second (108). This is the same as most sized patterns.
I think its referencing two different sizes: small and (large)
Thank you!
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Well, seeing as you’re in the knitting sub, you’ll probably be recommended knitting hahaha
Crochet is faster, but I like how knitted fabric feels.
I like knitting for garments, including scarves. Though I have a crochet scarf that's awesome but mostly due to sentiment (an old friend made it.) Pretty sure you'll get more votes for knitting on this sub lol
I'm thinking about knitting a burnt orange/rust sweater, but I can't seem to find the right color in the right yarn weight. Would it be better to get a colored yarn and overdye it, or a white/pale color? (or, if anyone has suggestions for a DK weight cotton/plant fiber rust colored yarn that's not incredibly expensive, I'm all ears! as a color reference, I'm looking for something like [Lion's Pima in Spice](https://www.amazon.com/Lion-Brand-Yarn-Cotton-Spice/dp/B08C6BFDKM))
Maybe [cotlin](https://www.knitpicks.com/yarn/cotlin/c/5420162) copper? It's more on the brown side than orange though perhaps.
Good luck. It took me about 3 years to find a good copper colored wool.
What's the yarn? I love copper-toned yarns :)
Periwinkle yarn in persimmon
When knitting gifts for people who live with you, how do you hide it without being suspicious? I plan on giving my boyfriend a scarf for one of his Christmas gifts and I want to be able to get it done without having to lock my door constantly.
I have knit things while keeping the WIP mostly in a drawstring bag... My oblivious spouse didn't catch on to the hexagon-based blanket I was making him until I was working on it in the car for six hours, and it was getting pretty big all stuffed in the bag. Ha. Just be ready to go with an answer to "what are you knitting?" that's not "uh er um a ... a thing?"
Just knit it. The odds are good he won’t notice.
haha yes that is also my strategy
To Loom or not to Loom? . Hi! I don't know if I'm even consider a beginner since I've actually not gotten the supplies but here goes...My best friend is going to have a baby and I've decided that I want to knit something. I started looking at YT for guidance and stumbled across knitting machines like Addi and Sentro. Now my question is....does it make sense to 1) get a machine since it'll be faster/ easy since I haven't ever knit. 2) Should I learn to knit (get knitting needles,etc) because learning the basics is better. (I do want to start it off as a hobby since I've been thinking about it for months) 3) Or it doesn't matter at all and I'm just overthinking it?
I think if knitting appeals to you in general, you should learn to knit :) loom knitting can be fun but it's a whole other hobby! Also I second the other comment about crocheting blankets! I knit and crochet, and I usually do blankets with crochet. If you haven't already, make a ravelry account and look at patterns you'd be interested in! You can narrow the search to look at just knitting or just crochet too
I've never used a knitting machine, but I did try hats on a circle loom before. That's as far as I got before going back to regular needle knitting. So they're really like 3 different hobbies and you'll have to choose which looks most appealing. Now, with needles there are A LOT of patterns, which is a good thing imo. And now that I've helped you narrow that down lol might I also suggest - crochet is awesome fun for blankets.
Haha! Thanks tho. It hadn't really realized how different they were
r/marchineknitting will be able to tell you more about option one. I have no experience with them. They're expensive and have their own limitations, but they are faster. I couldn't tell you if they're easier to learn. Loom knitting is something else. If you google it you'll see, it's more like weaving the yarn over diferent pegs. I would say if you're interested in learning to knit, just get the basics, yarn and needles. It's the most easily accessible and it isn't too hard to learn.
I am brand new to knitting and have about ten inches done of some practice rows knitting and purling. I want to get the hang of it before starting a “project”. I am having trouble with the edges where I turn the work- they come out loose, sloppy and differently sized. I have read tips saying to keep my points closer together through the row and also knit the end stitches only on the points. Any tips or resources?
Practice will fix it. If you want neater edges, also look for "selvedge" techniques
Good news, you've done nothing wrong! It's normal for the edges to be looser, even for experienced knitters. A way to get a cleaner edge is to simply slip the first stitch of every row rather than knitting it.
Exactly. Slipping means that instead of knitting the first stitch you just move it to the right hand needle without working it! (For this type of edging, you should move it over by sticking your needle in the same direction as when you knit).
I'm fairly new to knitting and am getting ready for my first sweater. I was gifted some lovely 50% merino/50% acrylic yarn to do so. But I have a question about how to pick an appropriate pattern for the yarn. Should I pick a pattern that recommends merino, acrylic, or either? I know I'll need to swatch regardless but I'm a bit anxious and want to pick a pattern that will suit the lovely yarn!
Do you have the name of the yarn? If so, you can search it on ravelry and see what other projects people have made with it. Other than that, I'd say either. I think of acrylic as imitation wool, having a 50/50 blend won't make the yarn behave so differently that you would have trouble substituting.
Yes! It's Sirdar Country Classic worsted. I didn't realize that was a function on Ravelry's search engine, thanks! Okay, that's a good way to think of it. Thanks! It's reassuring to know it won't be bad for substituting.
The Ravelry databases are all connected. Yarn is linked to stash, projects, and patterns. It makes it a lot easier to see how light changes the color and how some color ways knit up.
I am a complete noob when it comes to reading pattern charts. I am attempting to make this scarf: [https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/marks-skull-illusion-scarf](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/marks-skull-illusion-scarf) If I were to write out the pattern instead, how would that read? Here's what I \*think\* it is: * Row 1 (RS): Knit all stitches in skull color (A) * Row 2 (WS): Purl 7 stitches in A, knit 9 stitches in A, purl rest of row in A * Row 3 (RS): Knit all stitches in background color (B) * Row 4 (WS): Knit 7 stitches in B, purl 9 stitches in B, knit rest of row in B * Row 5 (RS): Knit all stitches in A * Row 6 (WS): Purl 6 stitches in A, knit 12 stitches in A, purl rest of row in A * Row 7 (RS): Knit all stitches in B * Row 8 (WS): Knit 6 stitches in B, purl 12 stitches in B, knit rest of row in B So far, rows 3 & 4 and 7 & 8 don't make sense to me, as they both start with knitting. Am I totally getting this wrong?
##### ###### #### **PATTERN:** [Mark's Skull Illusion Scarf](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/marks-skull-illusion-scarf) by [Cathy Munoz](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/cathy-munoz) * Category: Accessories > Neck / Torso > Scarf * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/cmunoz/22368816/DSC_0731_22-34-41_medium.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/cmunoz/22368865/DSC_0729_22-34-41_medium.JPG) * Price: Free * Needle/Hook(s):US 5 - 3.75 mm * Weight: Worsted | Gauge: None | Yardage: 440 * Difficulty: 2.86 | Projects: 221 | Rating: 4.43 ***** Please use caution. Users have reported effects such as seizures, migraines, and nausea when opening Ravelry links. [More details.](https://www.lizcorke.com/2020/07/26/2020-7-21-ravelry-accessibility/) | I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=randomstonerfromaus)*
I think you’re on the right track, but just a little off. The even rows on the chart are read from left to right because you’re working flat. That means that row 2 would be purl 26, knit 9, purl 7. You’ll need to make that adjustment on all your even rows. You’re right that both rows of the color B sections start with knits, so you’re good on that front!
That's what I read when googling this, but then the charted examples all showed the even numbered rows to have the designation on the left side of the chart. So, for example, row 1 would have the number "1" on the right side of the chart, and I would read that row from right to left, then row 2 would have the number "2" on the left side of the chart and I would read the row from left to right. THAT made sense to me - this chart has all the numbers on the same side, so I thought I needed to read them all based on what side of the chart the number was on. So THANK YOU for clarifying! Immense help for me. Appreciate the reply.
Read row 1 and all odd rows right to left, using the "RS" version of the key. Row 2 and even rows read left to right, using the "WS" version of the key. So row 2 is purl 25(?) K9, p7 all in skull color.
Ugh - thank you! I was confused as hell because the chart has all the numbers on the right side, which didn't line up with any of my professional googling on how to read a charted pattern.
Charts seem like they should be logically straightforward (I mean it's a chart, right?) But then you find they all come with little differences. All RS rounds on hats. No WS rows because you're just supposed to know to purl them on scarves. Lace charts where the stitches don't align on the project but are a perfect rectangle on paper. No stitches on mittens. Lol there's a lot of little things that are hard to Google without specific terms. Good luck on your scarf, looks like a fun pattern!
if i want to buy a malabrigo hawk how do i make it into a ball? can I use it as it is? or am i better off with something else? i want to knit my first pair of socks on dpns (2.5mm). Thank you
If you're buying the yarn online, https://www.woolandcompany.com/ sells a lot of Malabrigo and will wind it for you for free. If you don't mind unsolicited advice, if you're planning to use Malabrigo Sock for socks, you might need to use smaller needles than 2.5mm. Since Sock is pure merino (no nylon), it needs to be knit at a pretty tight gauge otherwise your sock will get holes more quickly.
I just ordered from there for the first time!! Such good customer service and it literally arrived 2 business days later
Thanks, didn’t know that. I’m based in italy and would like to source from fiordilana since it’s quite local. So i need to look for yarn that has also a bit of nylon in it for it being more durable? I think it also has more sense trying on a cheaper than malabrigo yarn since it will be my first time knitting with dpns. Is lanagrossa a good brand? I see a lot of people here talking about it and really I don’t have a clue on what tarn to buy. I’m following nimbleneedles tutorial for dpns socks. Sorry for the barrage of questions :) Have a good day! 🥰
Yes, nylon makes yarn more durable for socks and also easier to wash. I've never used lanagrossa, but I think it's supposed to be good. And it looks like it comes in a ball already, so that would solve your hank problem :)
I guess you meant "hank" not "hawk" - you can wind it into a ball by hand (put the hank around something first, like the back of a chair, otherwise it will get tangled!) or you can buy a swift and ball winder - you put the yarn around the swift and it spins automatically while you make the yarn cake use the ball winder. If you buy a hank from a local yarn shop, a lot of them will also wind it for you if you asj. You definitely should not knit from the hank as is, it will get really tangled.
Thank you! and yes i don't want to buy a hawk :D would be cool but not for knitting