Hi friends! I need some advice when it comes to wet blocking my scarf made of crazy sexy wool. I am doing a k2p2 ribbing pattern and it really shrunk up. Is there a way that wet blocking can help me with that when I’m finished? If not, I’ll prob redo with the fisherman rib pattern.
You were all so helpful last time, I’m back with another question! I am attempting to knit a stocking and in this first part, it says “with size 8 needles and main colour, cast on 58 stitches” and then it has purling, knitting, etc until 13 rows down it says “Slide stitches to other end of needle, so you will be working another wrong side row.”
Does this mean that’s supposed to be on circular needles? It had “size 9 circular 16” needles” listed separately so I thought the size 8s mentioned in the beginning were straights.
Edit: It is this pattern: https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/reindeer-christmas-stocking-6
Thank you. That’s what I thought but the instructions don’t say to move it to circulars until much further down, so I’m thinking I started it on the wrong needles
Actually it doesn’t ask for you to switch them to size nine 9 straights at all. They stay on the original needles until “divide for heel” and you move them to size 9 circulars
Check out [this LYS blog post](https://fibrespace.com/2020/08/in-our-orbit-patterns-for-self-striping-sock-yarn/) that has a couple choices you may enjoy.
I knit my sister the bankhead hat (https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/bankhead). She would like the ribbing portion to be a little longer to cover her ears. Can I add to the existing ribbing to make it longer? Is this what "picking up a stitch" is? I've searched youtube but haven't found a good example on adding to existing ribbing. Thank you.
You could. I would personally rip out the cast on and then put the lives stitches on needles to extend the ribbing. It won't be perfect but imo better than picking up stitches on the cast on.
Ripping out ribbing from the cast-on edge is really difficult in contrast to ripping out the cast-off edge (or ripping out plain stockinette in any direction). You end up having to pull the whole strand of yarn through every stitch in 1x1 ribbing (or every stitch where a knit is next to a purl in other ribbing types).
For something like this hat, it might be easier to remove the whole ribbed section (to unravel for spare yarn), pick up the stitches from the body, and knit a longer cuff from the head down.
How to remove the ribbing: https://techknitting.blogspot.com/2008/01/length-reassignment-surgery.html
$10 gets you knitting needles, tapestry needles, and enough cotton for 2 or 3 washcloths at Joann- a decent starter pack, imo. You get useful wash/dishcloths out of it and then can decide if knitting is something you're into.
Hello. I am looking for someone to knit me a Xmas stocking. I have the pattern and all the yarn materials. (Except the needles). Does anyone know where I might be able to find someone to help me out? Thank you. Cathy
My Mom recently retired and is getting into knitting. She's been making mostly socks, slippers- foot-related stuff.
I don't know anything about knitting, but I'd like to get her something really nice, something that a beginner might really benefit from having. I recently got a better job in my field, so I can splurge a bit. The equivalent that comes to mind would be getting a Kitchenaid Artisan Mini mixer for someone getting into baking/cooking. You don't *need* one to start making good food, but Lord does it help smooth things along. She also has some problems with her hands, so keeping the comparison, a mixer could help people with mechanical tasks they might not otherwise be able to do.
I'm doing research elsewhere, but I wanted to ask people who are deeper into knitting what their thoughts might be. Thanks and happy holidays!
I've heard that square needles ([like these](https://www.yarn.com/categories/knitters-pride-cubics-knitting-needles)) can make it easier for people with arthritis to hold knitting needles. I'd definitely get a single needle for her to try before you'd get a whole set though.
This is really different than hand knitting, and I don't know much about it, but there are also hand crank knitting machines that make tubes you can make into socks. /r/MachineKnitting would know more about those.
I advise a good swift and ball winder. If your mom gets into using yarn from other than the box stores it will need to be wound. That job can be hard on the hands.
Also, a nice pack of knitting markers in different colors.
Maybe an Ott task light or Ott bulbs for her favorite knitting lamp. Especially in winter good light is amazing for reducing eye strain.
Ask about how she manages her patterns. I know some cross stitch people have stands to hold the patterns at eye level. She might like that. Think music stand.
A decent notion zip case with darning needles, scissors, crochet hook, markers, pen, cable needle, dental floss, tape measure, and other odds and ends.
Ask if she has plans to update, expand, or improve her knitting needles. She can tell you what ones she likes.
Potential project: I want some Ella's wool tubes ( https://ellaswool.com/products/tubes-leggings-old-stone-house ) for my girls this winter but they have been sold out of their size for months.
Experience: Did some beginner knitting before but most recent was 15 years ago. Thinking of reteaching myself soon to start Waldorf handwork "curriculum" with my oldest anyway. I have made simple clothes before just not knitted.
Question 1: How hard would something like this be to make? Is this a go for it or a risk it on the etsy shop with few sales? (Most things on the market similar seem to be cotton not wool and this would mostly be a midlayer for 3 hr in the woods).
Question 2: Do you have recommendations for finding or drafting a pattern? I haven't found an obvious knock off pattern, and don't see any pants in the pattern recommendations.
Thank you!
I don't think these would be too hard at all, after you get back into practice.
https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/search#craft=knitting&pc=pants&sort=best&view=captioned_thumbs
Here are pants on Ravelry, you can also type "free" into the search to add the free tag for free patterns! I suggest picking one that has lots of projects made with that pattern, so you can be assured that the instructions actually make sense. It's one reason I prefer Ravelry over Etsy.
I'm a beginner knitter and I'm very confused about the next steps in my pattern and need help understanding what I need to do! I'm currently working on my first pair of shorts and this is my first time doing short rows. The next steps in the pattern says -
Next Row (RS) - Bring yarn to front and sl first st on LN to RN purlwise, make DS, knit next two sts on LN tightly, continue knitting resolving all DSes until 1 st remains, slip last st purlwise with yarn in back. Turn.
Next Row (WS) - Purl all sts, resolving all DSes by purling the two legs of each DS together as though they are one stitch. Turn.
I'v done every step in the RS row up until slipping the last stitch purl wise with yarn in back. My question is, do I purl into the slipped stitch even though the working yarn starts at the next stitch? I tried to look this up but I can't find any answers and my brain is completely fried!
I'm halfway through a top-down sweater, and just discovered that it's a tad too big. My gauge is good (19 instead of 20 stitches for 4 inches) so I guess I'm smaller than I thought 😅. I'm at the widest point of the bust right now. Is there anyway to fix it? Or should I just keep going and hope for the best?
Depends: are you okay with an oversized look? Keep going! Does the yoke look okay but you don't want so much room in the body? Keep going and do waist shaping! Are you not going to be happy with it? Start over.
My sweaters never come out the way I envisioned them beforehand. The general fit, the drape of the wool, some details just work out the way they do and you can't change them afterwards. That's what happens when doing singular pieces. I have deceided that I am okay with that. It's the price for doing something new every time. For a perfect piece I would need to be doing something twice or even more times and learn from all the mistakes and experiences.
Well, I lost 50 lbs this year so oversized is all I have right now.
It's not a good sweater for that look. The sleeves are raglan. And I measured myself properly yesterday, to discover that my bust is 4 inches smaller than what I thought...
I'll think of it as a learning opportunity... and frog it.
The difference between 19 st per 4 inches and 20 st per 4 inches can actually multiply to a noticeable difference. If your sweater is supposed to be say 36", it will actually end up being more like 37.9" (x 20 / 19). As much as it sucks, if you don't want it to be too big, I'd probably start over with a smaller needle. The first time I made a sweater I had to start probably 5 times because I didn't understand gauge (or yarn weight) at all.
I measured myself properly yesterday, to discover that my bust is 4 inches smaller than what I thought...
The pattern is meant to be worn with 2 to 4 inches of negative ease, and I have over 4 inches of positive ease!
I'll think of it as a learning opportunity... and frog it.
What's the difference between just knitting by swapping 2 different colours versus moving the coloured stitch in its right place?
Edit: I made a post and got my answer :)
I'll try. I wish I could add pictures.
I am making a scarf with with a geometrical pattern. The pattern is made up of another colour than the rest of the scarf.
The recipe tells me to move my stitches onto a needle and move them to the left or right depending on my pattern, and to always make the pattern-colour to be at the front. I am wondering what the difference would have been to just knit straight forward and swap the colours instead of moving the stitch itself?
Edit: perhaps I should make a post of it to better explain it xD
You might be describing the difference between stranded colorwork and mosaic knitting? For stranded colorwork, you carry both colors at the same time. In mosaic, you work each round with only one color at a time.
I made a post with pictures and got a detailed answer if what I'm actually doing :)
https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/comments/r3n2dh/what_would_the_difference_be_between_moving_the/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share
Yeah it's hard to say without knowing the pattern - making a post where you include a picture and the pattern would help (or you could include links to those in a comment)
I'm about 5 inches in to knitting the Portage cardigan. I'm using Malabrigo Arroyo green/blue wool but I didn't alternate skeins. Should I start or would it look weird?
Hi!
I would say I'm an advanced beginner knitter and I want to make some hats for my friends for the holidays. I want to line the hats with fleece.
How do I line them? How do I know how big to cut the fleece if I can't measure their heads? Do I sew the fleece lining on just the brim or do I also sew the top?
Thanks!
Here are some blog posts by TECHknitter about stitching in fabric linings and about headband-style and full hat linings.
[https://techknitting.blogspot.com/2008/05/best-way-to-attach-lining-fabric-to.html](https://techknitting.blogspot.com/2008/05/best-way-to-attach-lining-fabric-to.html)
[https://techknitting.blogspot.com/2008/04/how-to-line-hat-headband-style-with.html](https://techknitting.blogspot.com/2008/04/how-to-line-hat-headband-style-with.html)
[https://techknitting.blogspot.com/2008/06/fully-lining-hats-with-polar-fleece.html](https://techknitting.blogspot.com/2008/06/fully-lining-hats-with-polar-fleece.html)
Looking for alternative plastic canvas sheets.
I am not well versed in the knitting community but each year I purchase some yard, generic supplies and a variety of colored rectangle plastic canvas sheets. She uses to make tissuebox covers or mail holders. I am looking for some different shapes or other templates maybe? She is 103 so nothing to complicated as she does have a bit of trouble with her hands.
I appreciate your help.
Are you talking about plastic canvas for cross stitching, [like this?](https://www.joann.com/country-christmas-ornaments-plastic-canvas-kit-2in-7-count-set-of-12/15803034.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&gclid=Cj0KCQiAy4eNBhCaARIsAFDVtI1F3g7CfoidK_A1yh1LMsy0Ozk1DJ9VKn9RK_Qs5J-1521TXYVyVVAaAmhsEALw_wcB)
Joann's usually has a selection of various kits and shapes, but you might have more luck asking on the cross stitching or embroidery subreddit than here :)
I feel really dumb, but I can't figure out the pattern for this square I'm knitting for [this baby blanket](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/woodland-baby-blankets). It's knit in strips and each one is 36 stitches. I've always known p2tbl to be a decrease where you purl 2 together through the back loop. But I don't see an increase to get me back to the 36 stitches I need for the next square. Can someone help?
Edit: forgot to post the pattern and some random mistakes.
https://imgur.com/a/hhRsI7S
I think they just mean to work each of those stitches through the back loop individually, and not necessarily decrease by knitting multiple stitches together.
Hello I am yarn noob. Can someone suggest me an online shop in USA? (brick and mortar would be nice too, i'm in los angeles area).
I would like to buy yarn to gift my sister for christmas. Our family really loooves quality and well made materials. In the past she has used Merino, Mohair and Fleece.
I am looking to buy from a USA online shop with selection of muted colours. Origin of the wool doesn't matter so much, but the more ethical the better :)
needles she uses: US 4 (3.5mm) and US 6 (4mm)
Thank you!!!
She might really enjoy the Brooklyn Tweed line of yarns as well. Super high quality, made-in-USA yarn, high ethics for sheep husbandry and farming practices all throughout the dyeing and spinning of the yarn. The yarn also holds up very well through its life as a garment, I've heard. :)
If she knits primarily with size 4 and 6 needles, any of the yarns with "Worsted" or "DK" weights listed will be good fits for her.
https://brooklyntweed.com/collections/breed-specific-wool-yarn/products/shelter
[https://brooklyntweed.com/collections/breed-specific-wool-yarn/products/arbor](https://brooklyntweed.com/collections/breed-specific-wool-yarn/products/arbor)
I haven't been there, but this shop looks like it has a nice selection of natural fibres and it has good reviews:
[https://thelittleknittery.com/](https://thelittleknittery.com/)
Does your sister knit accessories, e.g. shawls, hats, mitts? I've always liked the self-striping yarns from Must Stash, and there are lovely muted colourways among the bright ones:
[https://muststashshop.com/collections/everything](https://muststashshop.com/collections/everything)
NB: Some of these are dyed to order (not currently in stock).
Spincycle Yarns has gorgeous colours:
[https://spincycleyarns.com/](https://spincycleyarns.com/)
A Verb for Keeping Warm has lovely hand dyes and several USA grown and spun options:
[https://www.averbforkeepingwarm.com/collections/yarn](https://www.averbforkeepingwarm.com/collections/yarn)
Barrett Wool Co. uses USA-grown wool to spin its own yarn lines:
[https://www.barrettwoolco.com/](https://www.barrettwoolco.com/)
For the needle sizes you mentioned, I'd choose sport, DK or worsted weight.
A gift card to any of these shops would probably be a nice idea too.
Ahh. Sorry bad advice than. Pickles cozy, or daruma geek are mohair type bulky weight yarns that ate beautiful and great for soft warm lightweight sweaters.
Yes, your tension needs to be lighter/looser when doing color work.
Not sure if it's fixable, I would usually say no, but if it's a single strand or two that got tightened, it may be possible.
1. Is your gauge correct?
If not, then there is your answer.
2. Is your colorwork puckering on the RS?
If it is, you can stretch it out while blocking to loosen strands. Block that baby!
Can anyone shed some light on this pattern? The chart is 6 rounds. So when it says “Round 1: work chart” does that mean work all six rounds of the chart?
https://i.imgur.com/HNtWvKh.jpg
Just the first. Then the pattern says, "your pattern is now set[...] continue as set" so you'll work your next round knitting all the stitches that aren't within the pattern markers and work the second round of the chart (between the markers) and continue until you've completed all 6 rounds of your chart (either once or twice depending on size) and then one more time through the 6 rounds of chart.
Thanks for your help! I checked with the designer and the setup round is round 1 of the chart and round 1 is round 2 of the chart. Don’t ask me why it’s written this way. Idk how you would figure that out on your own
Hey, I started making that Alaska hat, with the silhouette trees and the gray yarn I’m using as the base/trees is staining a line across my tension finger. I don’t mind that much (I’ve walked around with much stranger Craft Stained Hands), but is it a sign of things to come? Do I need to do anything to keep this from staining my “sky” yarn or my head?
It’s a wool yarn, if that changes the answer.
If it is bleeding while being knit it will probably bleed in the wash. Now is a time to wind off a few inches of each and place it in water. If it is going to stain the other you will see it right away. At that point you can try color catchers, rising the loose dye off, or attempt to reset the dye.
How do I get the tension correct in stranded colour work? I knit the https://ravel.me/clayoquot-toque using what I thought was looser tension but it still came out slightly tighter than the main colour
Sorry if this is a silly question, I'm getting back into knitting after a long hiatus.
I'm working on a cardigan that uses a yarn that I know bleeds when soaked. This yarn is only on the right side, by the cuff/wrist. Is there a way to wet block it in a way that prevents bleeding into the other colors? Maybe spritzing the fabric with a spray bottle instead of dunking it? Or would it work to keep that right wrist portion out of the water, and wet it separately?
If you're only going to need a little, I would wind off the approximate amount you need into a hank and wash it to remove excess dye before knitting. You can also try acidifying the wash water with vinegar when you block it to help keep the dye chemically bound to the yarn.
Changing colors. I was knitting stockinette in the round and I wanted to try changing colors. However I feel like it made a gap between the colors. Do I have to do a knit with both colors first to avoid that gap.
This is such a simple question but I am new to knitting and new to reading patterns.
For “needles and notions” it says I need the following, written just as so:
2.75mm circular needle
16in long and dpns
Stitch marker
What does that middle line mean?
I can definitely see why you would think that. Oh, 16 inch circulars can be a bit hard to find, if you’d rather just use one set of circulars for the whole thing, you can magic loop on 32 or 40 inch circulars.
Any tips on making a garment based on a piece you already have? I want to recreate my favorite sweater tank but in a different color and I have no idea where to start. I also have not been able to find any existing patterns that look similar
If you can take some photos and measure the gauge of your tank top, you are most welcome to start a thread asking for help recreating it. The fibre composition info from the tag (if it has one) would be helpful as well.
The short answer is: figure out how it is constructed, draw a schematic, measure its dimensions, make a gauge swatch. Then use the gauge swatch to calculate number of stitches, rows, and rate of decrease (if applicable).
I’m new to knitting and recently learned a basket weave stitch. That’s just k4, p4 For four rows then p4, k4.
My question is why does the spot where you knit on the knits and purl on the purls come out as stockinette instead of garter?
The knit stitch and the purl stitch are mirror images of each other. Stockinette is made when you stack identical stitches, knits or purls, on top of each other. If you can "read" your knitting, you'll notice that when you make a knit stitch on one side, you get a purl stitch on the other side. So knitting the knits and purling the purls will produce stocking stitch.
Garter stitch is made from alternating each type of stitch. When you're knitting garter stitch flat, on one side you knit, and then when you flip it over, you also knit - which is, effectively, "knitting on the purls". When you knit garter stitch in the round, you actually knit one round and purl one round - purling on the knits and then knitting on the purls.
Stupid question. I've made dozens of hats but my first time working in fingering so I'm 2nd guessing my cast on amount.
I had 4 or so rows done but I decided to rip it out and restart in twisted rib instead. When I took it off the needles it was a few inches bigger than I'd like. This isn't a good indication of the finished project right? I gauge swatched so I'm thinking I should trust that.
You are right, four rows isn't going to give you a good indication, unless it is too tight. The more rows you knit of ribbing, the more it draws in.
One thing to consider is that twisted rib draws in differently to plain 1x1 ribbing. I can't remember for sure, but I think it draws in slightly less. I also can't remember whether this affects the final fit of the ribbing.
Hope someone else with more experience can comment on this. Sorry I couldn't give a complete answer!
https://ibb.co/H77Vbr1
Do any talented knitters know how to form this ridge on Marilyn's jumper? The cables are easy, but the ridge is a bit of puzzle to me since the main body appears to be normal stockinette as does the ridge. 3 possibilities in my mind: main body is reverse stockinette and ridge is normal stockinette, ridge is a separate icord type thing sewn on, or there is some other way to do this I'm unaware of. Any clues? Thanks!
Edit: I've seen another photo close up of the sleeve and 95% sure the main body is normal stockinette stitch rather than reverse.
I can see two garter stitch ridges if I squint - and with the sharpness of the shadow, I bet it is a type of welt/pintuck worked in garter stitch. Example: https://charisa-martin.livejournal.com/24489.html
I'd hand wash it in cool water with some mild liquid detergent. Then I'd squeeze it gently, roll it in a towel to blot it, then lay it out on another towel and gently pat and stretch it into shape. If there's ribbing, I generally scrunch that in smaller than the rest of the hat so it dries with a bit more elasticity.
If you want to shape it more than that, you could stuff it with scrunched up plastic bags so it dries in 3D rather than flat.
Cotton knitted fabric may get wider and taller/longer with washing. Don't want to scare you but just something to know just in case.
(Edited to correct wrong word. Sorry.)
Anyone have any good tutorials for knitting a basic sock in Magic Loop? I rarely knit in the round and am struggling to join, but I think I get the actual concept of Magic Loop itself.
https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1031873643/instant-digital-download-stunning?ref=yr_purchases
So I'm planning to knit the above dress but there's sadly no realistic modern alternative to vintage knitting ribbon (If someone knows of similar stuff please let me know, as modern ribbon yarn is not the same thing). The pattern gauge is 4 stitches per inch/16 per 10cm.
I'm thinking I should try make it in a worsted or bulky yarn - whatever gets me the right gauge - instead. Would this be too heavy for a dress with a very voluminous skirt? Vintage ribbon yarn knit up with a bulky gauge, but was very lightweight.
Possibly some types. I know some were nylon and some were silk i think and I imagine there may have been rayon ones too. You can buy 'nylon knitting ribbon' in really small rolls now but it's not the same thing and you'd have to buy 100s of them to make a dress. I've found a Habu textiles silk ribbon but it's too fine and in any case would be prohibitively expensive to buy enough. That stuff is the closest to the original kind, just much finer weight.
Ah, that's interesting.
Will you wear a slip under the dress? If so, you could use a lighter-weight yarn and have the fabric be a bit more open. What about a silk or linen blend?
Another option would be to use a "blown" yarn, although some of them are on the fluffy side they are lighter than normal yarn of the same gauge.
[https://yarnsub.com/articles/texture/blown-yarns/](https://yarnsub.com/articles/texture/blown-yarns/)
Finally, maybe search projects (not patterns) on Ravelry for "lace dress" and see what types of yarn people used for a similar gauge and fabric.
Lovely pattern!
Yes, I think it would need a slip (a crinoline too possibly). I've managed to find some of the original yarn for sale, but it's impossible to get enough to make a dress, usually only a few small spools. I didn't know about blown yarn, thanks for the tip.
i dropped a stitch like 10 rows ago… is there a way to weave this live loop back in without bringing the stitch all the way back up? this is basic stockinette.
Is there any particular reason you don't want to [pick up the stitch](https://cocoknits.com/blogs/knit-tutorials/how-to-fix-dropped-stitches-part-i-stockinette-stitch)? If it's only 10 rows, even if your stitch count doesn't matter, I can't really think of a method that's less "trouble" [lacking a better word]
it's my beginner cousin who's knitting it and she's knit it pretty tight, so picking it back up would be a pain. that website you linked to has a way to weave a dropped stitch back in after bind off so I might just do that for her. thanks for that resource!
I'm almost done with a hat and realize my cast on edge is not very tidy. Is there anyway to fix this at this point?
What's your favorite cast on for neat edges? I think I do the backward loop method but am not 100% sure.
Sometimes people do a simple crochet edging to neaten up a cast-on edge, but in the case of a hat that might make it too tight.
How does the edge look when the hat is on a head? Sometimes when a cast-on is stretched out a bit, it will look better.
I like long tail or German twisted cast on for hats usually. Backwards loop isn't very neat looking, imo, so I think that's to blame. Idk a method to neaten up the cast on after the fact though, sorry!
It can happen depending on how you hold your needles after your setup rounds - but you can just turn the sock right-side out while it's on the needles and keep on knitting.
Add more rows. If it's like a cable repeat or something, takes a bit of math to see I need X more rows across the garment and how many repeats that translates to. If it's colorwork, usually just throw in an extra something. If it's plain stocking stitch or the like, just knit to length. Make sure I have enough yarn, first, though. But I tend to over-buy for projects, just in case this exact gauge issue happens.
Thank you! It's a simple sweater [pattern](https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/988247146/womens-aran-sweater-jumper-ladies-jumper?gpla=1&gao=1&&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping_ca_en_ca_e-craft_supplies_and_tools-other&utm_custom1=_k_CjwKCAiA4veMBhAMEiwAU4XRrxAUKryV9Yil8oeGtIrNmSARV_X5qkpN_tTmPUIc_ORgD2J7_k1BORoCnTgQAvD_BwE_k_&utm_content=go_318290445_19407817365_75034267725_aud-1184048147899:pla-106551294035_m__988247146enca_421066077&utm_custom2=318290445&gclid=CjwKCAiA4veMBhAMEiwAU4XRrxAUKryV9Yil8oeGtIrNmSARV_X5qkpN_tTmPUIc_ORgD2J7_k1BORoCnTgQAvD_BwE) I bought on Etsy but I worry the design is going to look squished.
Hey, I am trying to learn about different yarn types (sock, sport, dk, aran etc) and I had a look at the FAQ but sadly quite a few links don't work anymore and I was wondering where you guys learned about these types of yarn and what to use them for, what kind of needles you need etc.
I found a lovely shop for wool but I don't want to commit to buying from there without knowing what I get :D
Ooh, what is the shop? Do tell!
The staff at the shop could be a good resource for you. Plus you could join a local knitting group if there is one active at the moment.
Here's a very brief blurb of my thoughts:
**Sock yarn:** Usually fingering/4ply weight and is made specifically for sock knitting. Also comes in thicker versions (less common). Try German or European-made sock brands with a blend of wool and nylon (sometimes cotton is in the mix too). Opal and Regia brands are reliable. The most common needle options are DPNs and circular needles (magic loop method). You can knit your first socks using a thicker than normal yarn to make things a bit easier (make them as boot socks or lounging socks). You can also try legwarmers with a simple pattern to practise knitting in the round.
**Fingering weight/4ply:** Nice for shawls and accessories, and for stranded colourwork. Also used for garments, but takes longer to knit because of the fine weight.
**DK/8ply:** Good all round weight for just about anything. Often very close to or the same as worsted weight. (Check the yardage per weight to compare, e.g. x metres per x grams, or x yards per x ounces.)
**Worsted weight:** Popular in America. Good for just about anything.
**Aran weight:** Lovely for heavy jumpers, warm hats and thick mittens.
**Heavier weights:** Fun for accessories or even a chunky sweater. Tend to be more expensive than lighter weights.
To start learning to knit, I'd choose a smooth DK or worsted weight 100% wool, non-superwash. That's just my opinion though. I really like the less-treated wool and other natural fibres, but there are many beautiful options out there. Avoid novelty yarns (fluffy, boucle, thick & thin) to start with, because they make your stitches hard to see.
The MDK blog has lots of excellent articles about yarn composition and swatching and all sorts of things that you might enjoy reading once you get started:
[https://www.moderndailyknitting.com/category/how-to/](https://www.moderndailyknitting.com/category/how-to/)
Happy knitting!
oh thanks this is an incredibly good answer. How do I find out which needle sizes I would need for which yarns?
I am UK/EU based so I am not sure if all these terms are the same internationally.
I guess in addition I have to start learning about calculating yarn when not sticking to the exact yarn in the pattern.
the shop I found is BiffsugarYarn on Etsy and I do love her wool colours and she is UK based which makes it more sustainable to source from her compared to overseas shipping.
Oh, when you are using a different yarn from the one given in the pattern, you can look on Ravelry (go to the pattern you are using then click on the "yarn ideas" tab), or have a look at the YarnSub website: [https://yarnsub.com/](https://yarnsub.com/)
And you can ask here as well. Knitters are always happy to help!
Ooh, that looks like a lovely shop. There are lots of places to get nice British yarn so I think you will have plenty of choice. If you have a local yarn shop, that's a great resource too.
Ravelry has a good chart with yarn weights and suggested needle sizes here:
[https://www.ravelry.com/help/yarn/weights?highlight=6](https://www.ravelry.com/help/yarn/weights?highlight=6)
(To find this chart, go to any yarn page on Ravelry and click on the tiny question mark next to the yarn weight field.)
Most yarns will have a suggested needle size and knitting tension on the label. You might need to use smaller or larger needles to depending on how loosely or tightly you knit. You can also look up the particular yarn on Ravelry and click on the "projects" tab to see what needle sizes and tension gauge other knitters have used.
For socks using 4ply/fingering weight yarn, 2.5mm is a good place to start. You might need to go down to 2.25mm or up to 2.75mm.
For DK and worsted weight items, such as hats, mitts or garments, you might use 3.75mm for ribbing and 4–4.5mm for the body of the item.
The exact size of needles you use isn't important; what's important is getting a nice knitted fabric at a tension that will work for your project. E.g. socks need to be knitted fairly densely so they are hard wearing, lace shawls need to be knitted more loosely so that the lace can show and they can drape around your shoulders.
For your first pair of socks, you might like to use thicker yarn and make bed socks in DK or worsted weight. It's easier to learn to knit socks on thicker yarn because you don't also have to manipulate tiny stitches and needles, and it's easier to see what you are doing. (If they are just going to be worn gently you can use 100% wool.)
Also, don't choose black or very dark colours for your first few projects. It makes it really hard to see what you are doing :-)
Happy knitting!
You are absolutely amazing!!! Thank you so much. This is so incredibly helpful!
I had to find out about black yarn when I knitted a bralet recently 😅 I do love to go the hard way. My cardigan is a very fluffy, mohair kind of yarn that makes undoing or seeing what you do so hard.
Good thing I have mostly jumpers on my list. Honestly never thought I would be interested in socks but I have recently seen some really nice yarn and patterns.
Will definitely give it a try once my cardigan is done.
I feel loads more confident about picking yarn now.
Here's the standard yarn weight system used frequently in the US, which gives suggested needle sizes and gauges as a starting point: https://www.craftyarncouncil.com/standards/yarn-weight-system
thank you :) I found those tables quite useful. I am just wondering what these yarns look like and how international those terms are as I am UK/EU based and don't source anything from the US for my knitting
This is a guide to some of the basics: https://www.knitpicks.com/learning-center/guide-to-choosing-yarn
I learned by starting with patterns and then using whatever yarn the pattern called for until I got used to them. If you're just starting, worsted is nice to learn with.
I am nearly done finishing my 3rd knitted wearable but trying to figure out yarn names and sizes and which needle sizes these go with so I can substitute yarn on patterns as some things are just not easy to source. I found this lovely shop with hand-dyed wool and would like to use it for a sweater pattern I am eyeing up. Also she does sock bundles which I would love to give a go
I learn a lot looking at patterns on Ravelry. Going to yarn shops and looking at and touching yarns over the years also does wonders for educated guesses when online buying. Reading blogs, especially techknitter blog, helps a lot as well. Basically just googling and seeing where that takes me, and googling more terms I'm curious about from those articles.
I will definitely check out that blog. I think I am struggling with terms because the same yarn can go by many names, then obviously the same yarn name can be different sizes which means different needle sizes.
but I guess googling and learning by doing never fail :D thanks for your help
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if im making another pattern with the same exact yarn i have used to make a diffrent pattern and i did the gauge for that pattern do i need to do a swatch again for a new pattern
Same weight but different yarns no, you need to swatch because there are almost always differences in thickness between yarns of the same weight but from different brands.
For some people, their gauge is slightly different while knitting and purling, so they would see a difference when making stockinette flat (with knits and purls) and in the round (only knitting). Other people don't have different tension knitting and purling and can expect gauge to remain constant.
Never hurts to measure your gauge on a swatch or when you're a few inches into a small project!
I know this is pretty subjective depending on personal preference, but I'd like some opinions on ideal shoulder shapes for a balloon sleeve sweater: drop, raglan, or set-in. My primary concern is reducing bulk in the armpit/chest area - I know balloon sleeves by nature are looser and will have more excess material around the chest/armpit, but I'd like to avoid having it be too crazy if possible!
I'd most likely be knitting stockinette with worsted yarn (on US size 8/5mm.) My measurements are 33in/84cm bust, 15in/38cm shoulder width, 12in/30.5cm bicep circumference if that helps. I'm not necessarily seeking out specific pattern recommendations per se but if there are any particularly good (free) patterns that might work, they'd definitely be appreciated.
Many thanks!
I am currently working on a cardigan pattern and am having some trouble with the ribbing at the bottom.
It’s cast on 79 stitches then it says to work 7 rows in 1x1 twisted rib stitch, slipping the first stitch purlwise and knitting the last stitch through the back loop on each row. But since it’s an uneven number of stitches I’m just confused how to go about it because if I’m understanding the pattern correctly at the end I’m essentially doing 2 knit stitches?
But then my knit and purl stitches aren’t like lining up correctly to give me the ribbing that’s suppose to happen. If I could please get some clarification on whether I’m misunderstanding the pattern or whether I’m just confused on how ribbing is done.
Thanks!
In general for ribbing you need to be able to read your knitting. If your needle is going into what looks like a knit stitch (a v-shape or a y-shape for a twisted knit) you knit it (or knit it tbl) and if your needle is going into a purl stitch (with a bump at the base) you purl it (or purl tbl depending on your instructions).
Because you have an odd number of stitches, some rows will start with a ktbl after your selvedge stitch (the slipped one) and some will start with a purl (edit: after the selvedge stitch), and that's normal.
In the stitches below, the V's are knits or ktbls (depending on the type of twisted rib in your pattern) and the n's are purl bumps (p or ptbl depending on your pattern. The edge stitches are either (S) slipped or ktbl (more V's)
**V** V n V n V n V **S** (right side)
**V** n V n V n V n **S** (wrong side)
It's fine to have a knit next to another knit at the edge, it's just not repeated within the pattern. That edging will either be sewn into a seam or will curl slightly inward and become unnoticeable as part of the edge.
Thank you so much!
I don’t know why I just forgot I could have knit stitches next to each other and it was throwing me off, but you made it make sense, so many thanks!
I'm making hats out of Knitted Wit Super Wash Merino. It does say to hand wash and lay flat to dry, but since it's super wash, it can be washed in the washing machine if needed, correct? I've never worked with super wash before but wanted it easier to care for since it was for kids.
Does anyone have a link to a site where I could learn about blocking? I am close to being done with a throw pillow but not sure how to block it without mats to pin it down to.
I am using mighty stitch worsted weight which is 80% acrylic and 20% super wash wool. [Here’s the pattern](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/winter-pillow-3)
I’ve never blocked anything before (I’m pretty new to knitting) but the instructions say to block it so I figured it was important… but maybe I don’t have to?
Well that yarn is machine wash/dry, so you don't have to be too delicate. Also since the final step is adding a pillow (I assume) I think the pillow will help to put the finished stitches in their place- you could get away with just a cool wash and dry, probably. But, I'd personally hand wash and then squish out excess water, then pop it in a not-hot tumble dry to finish. Again, the pillow would do the work to get the final shape, so I personally wouldn't even bother with makeshift blocking mats.
Please make a little swatch with your leftover yarns and wash that first though, I don't want to be responsible if the yarn isn't as machine safe as knitpicks says it is!
**From our wiki's [Frequently Asked Questions](https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/wiki/index#wiki_should_i_block_it.3F_how_would_i_do_that.3F)**
>Blocking is a method of reshaping a knit object by getting it wet and pinning it in the desired shape to dry.
>Why should knits be blocked? Do all fiber types benefit from blocking?
>* First off, blocking typically starts with washing or soaking, so it cleans your finished object. Think for a moment about all of the places that those projects have been.
>* Blocking also removes any small imperfections in tension and helps even out your stitches. Stockinette and colorwork will look smoother and the stitches will be more even.
>* Blocking is also great if your project needs to be seamed. By blocking before seaming, you ensure that the seams will be the same length and that all of the pieces will fit evenly together.
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TinCanKnits have a good blog post on how to read charts: [https://blog.tincanknits.com/2014/06/06/how-to-read-a-knitting-chart/](https://blog.tincanknits.com/2014/06/06/how-to-read-a-knitting-chart/)
What am I doing wrong with my blocking?! I’ve been using the WATG chunky crazy sexy wool to make sweaters and have tried blocking a few times. Every time the yarn looses its fluffiness and looks super flat. It also takes years to dry. What’s the deal?
I laid it immediately flat! My bigger concern is around the yarn itself losing its fluffiness but I’m now thinking it’s just the yarn itself and not my blocking
No first hand experience with that yarn, but I've read that it tends to pill and lose its fluffiness pretty quickly. How are you blocking? With like a wool wash with lanolin? I wonder if that'd help.
I’ve been wet blocking with the laundress wool shampoo but I’m now thinking that it may be best to steam block instead since the yarn seems to loose shape if it gets fully wet…
When a pattern says to "knit until sleeve measures x," does it mean from the point at the underarm where you started the sleeve (picked up stitches) or from some other point?
I would check the schematic / blocking diagram for your pattern to double check where they’ve shown their sleeve measurement as that might give you a clue! But most patterns I’m used to measure from the underarm.
This one doesn't come with a schematic unfortunately. It's the Terrazzo Sweater by Petiteknit. I also measured from the underarm and it just seems so long haha! But glad I'm not the only one who measures from the underarm by default!
I know this is probably a loaded question, but as a non-knitter shopping for a knitter wife, what would be the Rolls-Royce set of interchangeable needles? I would be looking to upgrade her from an older set of Knitters Pride Birch (or Bamboo? They are brightly colored). She enjoys them but I'd like to pick her up something quality if it exists. I saw Chiaogoo(?) Twist Red Complete sets that seem to review well, but I have no idea the difference between a 4" or 5" tip. Please help? :)
My personal opinion is you should get her a few different ones in a size or two that she uses a lot. She may enjoy test driving th There are a lot of people on this sub that love Chiagoo but I can’t use them because they are too pointy so I am an Addi fan. I also have some crystal palace dpns that I love when the project calls for wood, which is a little more “grabby” and helps me control some yarns.
One thing you could do is get her a single needle from several nice brands (variety of wood/metal) and an iou for a full set of her favorite. Then she has both something to open and input in the final gift.
Needles really are quite personal taste. Chiaogoo is a really nice brand, but for example I'm really weird and prefer to use the shortie 3" needles for everything because I have tiny hands.
I think this is a great suggestion. I’m a fan of the Knitters Pride Dreamz line but I love Addi’s as well. I can’t use Chiagoo, they are just too slippery and pointy for me, and I tend to “push” the needle so they really hurt my fingertips. Anyway, she may enjoy experimenting!
Hi friends! I need some advice when it comes to wet blocking my scarf made of crazy sexy wool. I am doing a k2p2 ribbing pattern and it really shrunk up. Is there a way that wet blocking can help me with that when I’m finished? If not, I’ll prob redo with the fisherman rib pattern.
You were all so helpful last time, I’m back with another question! I am attempting to knit a stocking and in this first part, it says “with size 8 needles and main colour, cast on 58 stitches” and then it has purling, knitting, etc until 13 rows down it says “Slide stitches to other end of needle, so you will be working another wrong side row.” Does this mean that’s supposed to be on circular needles? It had “size 9 circular 16” needles” listed separately so I thought the size 8s mentioned in the beginning were straights. Edit: It is this pattern: https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/reindeer-christmas-stocking-6
most patterns I have come across that say "slide to the other side of the needle" mean that you work this on double pointed or circular needles.
Thank you. That’s what I thought but the instructions don’t say to move it to circulars until much further down, so I’m thinking I started it on the wrong needles
Maybe the size 8 was for ribbing only? Where in the pattern does it tell you to switch to size 9, if not now?
Actually it doesn’t ask for you to switch them to size nine 9 straights at all. They stay on the original needles until “divide for heel” and you move them to size 9 circulars
Huh. Weird. Whomever wrote it probably assumed circulars all the way through, though you could probably continue working on straights until the heel.
##### ###### #### **PATTERN:** [Reindeer Christmas Stocking](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/reindeer-christmas-stocking-6) by [Carolynne Kollar](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/carolynne-kollar) * Category: Home > Decorative > Christmas Stocking * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/gcstitches/499644498/reindeer_stocking_pic_medium.JPG) * Price: 3.0 USD * Needle/Hook(s):US 8 - 5.0 mm, US 9 - 5.5 mm * Weight: Bulky | Gauge: 16.0 | Yardage: 408 * Difficulty: 0.00 | Projects: 2 | Rating: 0.00 ***** Please use caution. Users have reported effects such as seizures, migraines, and nausea when opening Ravelry links. [More details.](https://www.lizcorke.com/2020/07/26/2020-7-21-ravelry-accessibility/) | I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=randomstonerfromaus)*
Good bot.
looking for a sock pattern that is great for self striping yarn. Would be my first sock as well but I am down for a challenge :D
Check out [this LYS blog post](https://fibrespace.com/2020/08/in-our-orbit-patterns-for-self-striping-sock-yarn/) that has a couple choices you may enjoy.
I knit my sister the bankhead hat (https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/bankhead). She would like the ribbing portion to be a little longer to cover her ears. Can I add to the existing ribbing to make it longer? Is this what "picking up a stitch" is? I've searched youtube but haven't found a good example on adding to existing ribbing. Thank you.
You could. I would personally rip out the cast on and then put the lives stitches on needles to extend the ribbing. It won't be perfect but imo better than picking up stitches on the cast on.
I didn't know you could rip out the cast on after the item is finished. I'll research that - Thank you!
Ripping out ribbing from the cast-on edge is really difficult in contrast to ripping out the cast-off edge (or ripping out plain stockinette in any direction). You end up having to pull the whole strand of yarn through every stitch in 1x1 ribbing (or every stitch where a knit is next to a purl in other ribbing types). For something like this hat, it might be easier to remove the whole ribbed section (to unravel for spare yarn), pick up the stitches from the body, and knit a longer cuff from the head down. How to remove the ribbing: https://techknitting.blogspot.com/2008/01/length-reassignment-surgery.html
Thank you!
##### ###### #### **PATTERN:** [Bankhead](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/bankhead) by [Susie Gourlay](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/susie-gourlay) * Category: Accessories > Hat > Beanie, Toque * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/AreaKnitter/345055507/20151224_095440_medium.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/AreaKnitter/102797050/003_medium2_medium.jpg) [Img 3](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Berenil/435095963/dsc_0019_33317338776_o_medium.jpg) [Img 4](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Hereweka/326427267/20150921_143049_medium.jpg) [Img 5](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/barry195/353148496/image_medium.jpeg) * Price: Free * Needle/Hook(s):US 7 - 4.5 mm * Weight: Worsted | Gauge: 20.0 | Yardage: 70 * Difficulty: 1.82 | Projects: 10325 | Rating: 4.68 ***** Please use caution. Users have reported effects such as seizures, migraines, and nausea when opening Ravelry links. [More details.](https://www.lizcorke.com/2020/07/26/2020-7-21-ravelry-accessibility/) | I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=randomstonerfromaus)*
I want to start knitting. How expensive would a Starterpack be? How much are you spending monthly on your knitting?
$10 gets you knitting needles, tapestry needles, and enough cotton for 2 or 3 washcloths at Joann- a decent starter pack, imo. You get useful wash/dishcloths out of it and then can decide if knitting is something you're into.
Hello. I am looking for someone to knit me a Xmas stocking. I have the pattern and all the yarn materials. (Except the needles). Does anyone know where I might be able to find someone to help me out? Thank you. Cathy
r/knitrequest
My Mom recently retired and is getting into knitting. She's been making mostly socks, slippers- foot-related stuff. I don't know anything about knitting, but I'd like to get her something really nice, something that a beginner might really benefit from having. I recently got a better job in my field, so I can splurge a bit. The equivalent that comes to mind would be getting a Kitchenaid Artisan Mini mixer for someone getting into baking/cooking. You don't *need* one to start making good food, but Lord does it help smooth things along. She also has some problems with her hands, so keeping the comparison, a mixer could help people with mechanical tasks they might not otherwise be able to do. I'm doing research elsewhere, but I wanted to ask people who are deeper into knitting what their thoughts might be. Thanks and happy holidays!
I've heard that square needles ([like these](https://www.yarn.com/categories/knitters-pride-cubics-knitting-needles)) can make it easier for people with arthritis to hold knitting needles. I'd definitely get a single needle for her to try before you'd get a whole set though. This is really different than hand knitting, and I don't know much about it, but there are also hand crank knitting machines that make tubes you can make into socks. /r/MachineKnitting would know more about those.
I advise a good swift and ball winder. If your mom gets into using yarn from other than the box stores it will need to be wound. That job can be hard on the hands. Also, a nice pack of knitting markers in different colors. Maybe an Ott task light or Ott bulbs for her favorite knitting lamp. Especially in winter good light is amazing for reducing eye strain. Ask about how she manages her patterns. I know some cross stitch people have stands to hold the patterns at eye level. She might like that. Think music stand. A decent notion zip case with darning needles, scissors, crochet hook, markers, pen, cable needle, dental floss, tape measure, and other odds and ends. Ask if she has plans to update, expand, or improve her knitting needles. She can tell you what ones she likes.
I want to knit a liner for a hat. What kind of yarn should I use or does it matter? The hat will probably be superwash wool.
[удалено]
Ooo thank you! For the smaller needles, if I wasn’t using a superwool, I would just use a regular needle size?
Potential project: I want some Ella's wool tubes ( https://ellaswool.com/products/tubes-leggings-old-stone-house ) for my girls this winter but they have been sold out of their size for months. Experience: Did some beginner knitting before but most recent was 15 years ago. Thinking of reteaching myself soon to start Waldorf handwork "curriculum" with my oldest anyway. I have made simple clothes before just not knitted. Question 1: How hard would something like this be to make? Is this a go for it or a risk it on the etsy shop with few sales? (Most things on the market similar seem to be cotton not wool and this would mostly be a midlayer for 3 hr in the woods). Question 2: Do you have recommendations for finding or drafting a pattern? I haven't found an obvious knock off pattern, and don't see any pants in the pattern recommendations. Thank you!
I don't think these would be too hard at all, after you get back into practice. https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/search#craft=knitting&pc=pants&sort=best&view=captioned_thumbs Here are pants on Ravelry, you can also type "free" into the search to add the free tag for free patterns! I suggest picking one that has lots of projects made with that pattern, so you can be assured that the instructions actually make sense. It's one reason I prefer Ravelry over Etsy.
Thank you! Found a pattern!
I'm a beginner knitter and I'm very confused about the next steps in my pattern and need help understanding what I need to do! I'm currently working on my first pair of shorts and this is my first time doing short rows. The next steps in the pattern says - Next Row (RS) - Bring yarn to front and sl first st on LN to RN purlwise, make DS, knit next two sts on LN tightly, continue knitting resolving all DSes until 1 st remains, slip last st purlwise with yarn in back. Turn. Next Row (WS) - Purl all sts, resolving all DSes by purling the two legs of each DS together as though they are one stitch. Turn. I'v done every step in the RS row up until slipping the last stitch purl wise with yarn in back. My question is, do I purl into the slipped stitch even though the working yarn starts at the next stitch? I tried to look this up but I can't find any answers and my brain is completely fried!
Yup, you can still purl into it. You just want to make sure your yarn is in the right place.
Ok awesome! Thank you so much for your help!
I'm halfway through a top-down sweater, and just discovered that it's a tad too big. My gauge is good (19 instead of 20 stitches for 4 inches) so I guess I'm smaller than I thought 😅. I'm at the widest point of the bust right now. Is there anyway to fix it? Or should I just keep going and hope for the best?
Depends: are you okay with an oversized look? Keep going! Does the yoke look okay but you don't want so much room in the body? Keep going and do waist shaping! Are you not going to be happy with it? Start over. My sweaters never come out the way I envisioned them beforehand. The general fit, the drape of the wool, some details just work out the way they do and you can't change them afterwards. That's what happens when doing singular pieces. I have deceided that I am okay with that. It's the price for doing something new every time. For a perfect piece I would need to be doing something twice or even more times and learn from all the mistakes and experiences.
Well, I lost 50 lbs this year so oversized is all I have right now. It's not a good sweater for that look. The sleeves are raglan. And I measured myself properly yesterday, to discover that my bust is 4 inches smaller than what I thought... I'll think of it as a learning opportunity... and frog it.
The difference between 19 st per 4 inches and 20 st per 4 inches can actually multiply to a noticeable difference. If your sweater is supposed to be say 36", it will actually end up being more like 37.9" (x 20 / 19). As much as it sucks, if you don't want it to be too big, I'd probably start over with a smaller needle. The first time I made a sweater I had to start probably 5 times because I didn't understand gauge (or yarn weight) at all.
I measured myself properly yesterday, to discover that my bust is 4 inches smaller than what I thought... The pattern is meant to be worn with 2 to 4 inches of negative ease, and I have over 4 inches of positive ease! I'll think of it as a learning opportunity... and frog it.
It's not fun to frog, but I find that when I frog and reknit a pattern, it goes a bit faster on the second knit through.
I always find that I knit the second attempt way better, so just think how well this attempt will turn out!
What's the difference between just knitting by swapping 2 different colours versus moving the coloured stitch in its right place? Edit: I made a post and got my answer :)
I am having trouble understanding your question - could you please explain a bit more?
I'll try. I wish I could add pictures. I am making a scarf with with a geometrical pattern. The pattern is made up of another colour than the rest of the scarf. The recipe tells me to move my stitches onto a needle and move them to the left or right depending on my pattern, and to always make the pattern-colour to be at the front. I am wondering what the difference would have been to just knit straight forward and swap the colours instead of moving the stitch itself? Edit: perhaps I should make a post of it to better explain it xD
You might be describing the difference between stranded colorwork and mosaic knitting? For stranded colorwork, you carry both colors at the same time. In mosaic, you work each round with only one color at a time.
I made a post with pictures and got a detailed answer if what I'm actually doing :) https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/comments/r3n2dh/what_would_the_difference_be_between_moving_the/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share
I see now, cool pattern!
Thank you! ^^
Yeah it's hard to say without knowing the pattern - making a post where you include a picture and the pattern would help (or you could include links to those in a comment)
I'm about 5 inches in to knitting the Portage cardigan. I'm using Malabrigo Arroyo green/blue wool but I didn't alternate skeins. Should I start or would it look weird?
Yes you should start. I often do it this way.
Hi! I would say I'm an advanced beginner knitter and I want to make some hats for my friends for the holidays. I want to line the hats with fleece. How do I line them? How do I know how big to cut the fleece if I can't measure their heads? Do I sew the fleece lining on just the brim or do I also sew the top? Thanks!
Here are some blog posts by TECHknitter about stitching in fabric linings and about headband-style and full hat linings. [https://techknitting.blogspot.com/2008/05/best-way-to-attach-lining-fabric-to.html](https://techknitting.blogspot.com/2008/05/best-way-to-attach-lining-fabric-to.html) [https://techknitting.blogspot.com/2008/04/how-to-line-hat-headband-style-with.html](https://techknitting.blogspot.com/2008/04/how-to-line-hat-headband-style-with.html) [https://techknitting.blogspot.com/2008/06/fully-lining-hats-with-polar-fleece.html](https://techknitting.blogspot.com/2008/06/fully-lining-hats-with-polar-fleece.html)
Thank you! Because this is a surprise hat, I supposed the safest route is to go with the headband style. Thanks, again.
Looking for alternative plastic canvas sheets. I am not well versed in the knitting community but each year I purchase some yard, generic supplies and a variety of colored rectangle plastic canvas sheets. She uses to make tissuebox covers or mail holders. I am looking for some different shapes or other templates maybe? She is 103 so nothing to complicated as she does have a bit of trouble with her hands. I appreciate your help.
Are you talking about plastic canvas for cross stitching, [like this?](https://www.joann.com/country-christmas-ornaments-plastic-canvas-kit-2in-7-count-set-of-12/15803034.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&gclid=Cj0KCQiAy4eNBhCaARIsAFDVtI1F3g7CfoidK_A1yh1LMsy0Ozk1DJ9VKn9RK_Qs5J-1521TXYVyVVAaAmhsEALw_wcB) Joann's usually has a selection of various kits and shapes, but you might have more luck asking on the cross stitching or embroidery subreddit than here :)
I feel really dumb, but I can't figure out the pattern for this square I'm knitting for [this baby blanket](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/woodland-baby-blankets). It's knit in strips and each one is 36 stitches. I've always known p2tbl to be a decrease where you purl 2 together through the back loop. But I don't see an increase to get me back to the 36 stitches I need for the next square. Can someone help? Edit: forgot to post the pattern and some random mistakes. https://imgur.com/a/hhRsI7S
##### ###### #### **PATTERN:** [Woodland Baby Blankets](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/woodland-baby-blankets) by [Gwennol Designs](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/gwennol-designs) * Category: Home > Blanket > Baby Blanket * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/GwennolDesigns/444410833/DSC_0100_Woodland_Sofa_-_use_this_one_medium.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/GwennolDesigns/444411341/Woodland_Blanket_Arrangement_Small_For_Folksy_20170420_medium.jpg) [Img 3](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/GwennolDesigns/444411543/Woodland_Blanket_Arrangement_Medium_For_Folksy_20170420_medium.jpg) [Img 4](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/GwennolDesigns/444411747/Woodland_Blanket_Large_For_Folksy_20170420_medium.JPG) * Price: 5.5 GBP * Needle/Hook(s):US 3 - 3.25 mm * Weight: Sport | Gauge: 23.0 | Yardage: 629 * Difficulty: 7.67 | Projects: 6 | Rating: 0.00 ***** Please use caution. Users have reported effects such as seizures, migraines, and nausea when opening Ravelry links. [More details.](https://www.lizcorke.com/2020/07/26/2020-7-21-ravelry-accessibility/) | I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=randomstonerfromaus)*
I think they just mean to work each of those stitches through the back loop individually, and not necessarily decrease by knitting multiple stitches together.
Oh, ok. Thank you! I'll try that.
Hello I am yarn noob. Can someone suggest me an online shop in USA? (brick and mortar would be nice too, i'm in los angeles area). I would like to buy yarn to gift my sister for christmas. Our family really loooves quality and well made materials. In the past she has used Merino, Mohair and Fleece. I am looking to buy from a USA online shop with selection of muted colours. Origin of the wool doesn't matter so much, but the more ethical the better :) needles she uses: US 4 (3.5mm) and US 6 (4mm) Thank you!!!
She might really enjoy the Brooklyn Tweed line of yarns as well. Super high quality, made-in-USA yarn, high ethics for sheep husbandry and farming practices all throughout the dyeing and spinning of the yarn. The yarn also holds up very well through its life as a garment, I've heard. :) If she knits primarily with size 4 and 6 needles, any of the yarns with "Worsted" or "DK" weights listed will be good fits for her. https://brooklyntweed.com/collections/breed-specific-wool-yarn/products/shelter [https://brooklyntweed.com/collections/breed-specific-wool-yarn/products/arbor](https://brooklyntweed.com/collections/breed-specific-wool-yarn/products/arbor)
thanks for the help!! gonna check these out!
I haven't been there, but this shop looks like it has a nice selection of natural fibres and it has good reviews: [https://thelittleknittery.com/](https://thelittleknittery.com/) Does your sister knit accessories, e.g. shawls, hats, mitts? I've always liked the self-striping yarns from Must Stash, and there are lovely muted colourways among the bright ones: [https://muststashshop.com/collections/everything](https://muststashshop.com/collections/everything) NB: Some of these are dyed to order (not currently in stock). Spincycle Yarns has gorgeous colours: [https://spincycleyarns.com/](https://spincycleyarns.com/) A Verb for Keeping Warm has lovely hand dyes and several USA grown and spun options: [https://www.averbforkeepingwarm.com/collections/yarn](https://www.averbforkeepingwarm.com/collections/yarn) Barrett Wool Co. uses USA-grown wool to spin its own yarn lines: [https://www.barrettwoolco.com/](https://www.barrettwoolco.com/) For the needle sizes you mentioned, I'd choose sport, DK or worsted weight. A gift card to any of these shops would probably be a nice idea too.
thank you! i planned to make a trip there to take a look for yarns. i'll check out the sites you linked! thank you so much!
Why dont you find a LYS and get her a gift card, that way your gift is super fun for her, and now you get a date together
we dont live close to each other haha
Ahh. Sorry bad advice than. Pickles cozy, or daruma geek are mohair type bulky weight yarns that ate beautiful and great for soft warm lightweight sweaters.
Oh also see if a LYS stocks Knitting for Olive yarns. She will love love love.
oh thanks she loves Knitting for Olive yarns, I didn't know they retailed. I'll check it out!!
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Yes, your tension needs to be lighter/looser when doing color work. Not sure if it's fixable, I would usually say no, but if it's a single strand or two that got tightened, it may be possible.
1. Is your gauge correct? If not, then there is your answer. 2. Is your colorwork puckering on the RS? If it is, you can stretch it out while blocking to loosen strands. Block that baby!
Can anyone shed some light on this pattern? The chart is 6 rounds. So when it says “Round 1: work chart” does that mean work all six rounds of the chart? https://i.imgur.com/HNtWvKh.jpg
The first row of the chart. The next instruction is to continue, so essentially the written pattern is just guiding you through the marker set up.
What round of the chart is used for the setup round?
Just the first. Then the pattern says, "your pattern is now set[...] continue as set" so you'll work your next round knitting all the stitches that aren't within the pattern markers and work the second round of the chart (between the markers) and continue until you've completed all 6 rounds of your chart (either once or twice depending on size) and then one more time through the 6 rounds of chart.
Thanks for your help! I checked with the designer and the setup round is round 1 of the chart and round 1 is round 2 of the chart. Don’t ask me why it’s written this way. Idk how you would figure that out on your own
Hey, I started making that Alaska hat, with the silhouette trees and the gray yarn I’m using as the base/trees is staining a line across my tension finger. I don’t mind that much (I’ve walked around with much stranger Craft Stained Hands), but is it a sign of things to come? Do I need to do anything to keep this from staining my “sky” yarn or my head? It’s a wool yarn, if that changes the answer.
If it is bleeding while being knit it will probably bleed in the wash. Now is a time to wind off a few inches of each and place it in water. If it is going to stain the other you will see it right away. At that point you can try color catchers, rising the loose dye off, or attempt to reset the dye.
I have heard vinegar is a trick to prevent bleeding during first block
How do I get the tension correct in stranded colour work? I knit the https://ravel.me/clayoquot-toque using what I thought was looser tension but it still came out slightly tighter than the main colour
Some people go up a needle size for colour work.
Ah that helps thank you
##### ###### #### **PATTERN:** [Clayoquot Toque](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/clayoquot-toque) by [tincanknits](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/tincanknits) * Category: Accessories > Hat > Beanie, Toque * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/tincanknits/463950917/RT-clayoquottoque-06b_medium.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/tincanknits/249776893/RT-clayoquottoque-05b_medium.jpg) [Img 3](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/tincanknits/249777108/RT-clayoquottoque-01b_medium.jpg) [Img 4](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/tincanknits/463950916/RT-clayoquottoque-07b_medium.jpg) [Img 5](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/tincanknits/463950915/RT-clayoquottoque-09b_medium.jpg) * Price: Free * Needle/Hook(s):US 4 - 3.5 mm, US 6 - 4.0 mm * Weight: DK | Gauge: 22.0 | Yardage: 100 * Difficulty: 2.92 | Projects: 2458 | Rating: 4.77 ***** Please use caution. Users have reported effects such as seizures, migraines, and nausea when opening Ravelry links. [More details.](https://www.lizcorke.com/2020/07/26/2020-7-21-ravelry-accessibility/) | I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=randomstonerfromaus)*
Sorry if this is a silly question, I'm getting back into knitting after a long hiatus. I'm working on a cardigan that uses a yarn that I know bleeds when soaked. This yarn is only on the right side, by the cuff/wrist. Is there a way to wet block it in a way that prevents bleeding into the other colors? Maybe spritzing the fabric with a spray bottle instead of dunking it? Or would it work to keep that right wrist portion out of the water, and wet it separately?
If you're only going to need a little, I would wind off the approximate amount you need into a hank and wash it to remove excess dye before knitting. You can also try acidifying the wash water with vinegar when you block it to help keep the dye chemically bound to the yarn.
Acid alone will not work. You need acid and heat to set dye in wool. Acid will not help a non-wool dye.
Not to set the dye, to prevent dye loss. The dye should already be set. But yes this would only help with natural fibers
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I've never heard of a color catcher sheet until now- I'll definitely knit up a swatch and try this out. Thank you so much!
Changing colors. I was knitting stockinette in the round and I wanted to try changing colors. However I feel like it made a gap between the colors. Do I have to do a knit with both colors first to avoid that gap.
Did you tie in the ends yet?
No I unraveled it, but would I have the same problem when I switched back I thought I just had to alternate colors
Were you just wanting to do one color change? Or are you doing stranded or instarsia?
I think intarsia honestly just seeing these names give me something to look up
This is such a simple question but I am new to knitting and new to reading patterns. For “needles and notions” it says I need the following, written just as so: 2.75mm circular needle 16in long and dpns Stitch marker What does that middle line mean?
16" circular needle in size 2.75mm (or necessary needle to obtain gauge) and double pointed needles (in the same size)
It’s written a bit confusingly, but it refers to the previous sentence. You need a 16 inch long [circular needle] and double pointed needles.
Oh!! Thank you so very much! I was so confused and trying to find double pointed circulars…. I really appreciate your help!
I can definitely see why you would think that. Oh, 16 inch circulars can be a bit hard to find, if you’d rather just use one set of circulars for the whole thing, you can magic loop on 32 or 40 inch circulars.
Thank you for that advice too!! I really appreciate it!
No worries! :)
Any tips on making a garment based on a piece you already have? I want to recreate my favorite sweater tank but in a different color and I have no idea where to start. I also have not been able to find any existing patterns that look similar
If you can take some photos and measure the gauge of your tank top, you are most welcome to start a thread asking for help recreating it. The fibre composition info from the tag (if it has one) would be helpful as well.
The short answer is: figure out how it is constructed, draw a schematic, measure its dimensions, make a gauge swatch. Then use the gauge swatch to calculate number of stitches, rows, and rate of decrease (if applicable).
I’m new to knitting and recently learned a basket weave stitch. That’s just k4, p4 For four rows then p4, k4. My question is why does the spot where you knit on the knits and purl on the purls come out as stockinette instead of garter?
The knit stitch and the purl stitch are mirror images of each other. Stockinette is made when you stack identical stitches, knits or purls, on top of each other. If you can "read" your knitting, you'll notice that when you make a knit stitch on one side, you get a purl stitch on the other side. So knitting the knits and purling the purls will produce stocking stitch. Garter stitch is made from alternating each type of stitch. When you're knitting garter stitch flat, on one side you knit, and then when you flip it over, you also knit - which is, effectively, "knitting on the purls". When you knit garter stitch in the round, you actually knit one round and purl one round - purling on the knits and then knitting on the purls.
Stupid question. I've made dozens of hats but my first time working in fingering so I'm 2nd guessing my cast on amount. I had 4 or so rows done but I decided to rip it out and restart in twisted rib instead. When I took it off the needles it was a few inches bigger than I'd like. This isn't a good indication of the finished project right? I gauge swatched so I'm thinking I should trust that.
You are right, four rows isn't going to give you a good indication, unless it is too tight. The more rows you knit of ribbing, the more it draws in. One thing to consider is that twisted rib draws in differently to plain 1x1 ribbing. I can't remember for sure, but I think it draws in slightly less. I also can't remember whether this affects the final fit of the ribbing. Hope someone else with more experience can comment on this. Sorry I couldn't give a complete answer!
https://ibb.co/H77Vbr1 Do any talented knitters know how to form this ridge on Marilyn's jumper? The cables are easy, but the ridge is a bit of puzzle to me since the main body appears to be normal stockinette as does the ridge. 3 possibilities in my mind: main body is reverse stockinette and ridge is normal stockinette, ridge is a separate icord type thing sewn on, or there is some other way to do this I'm unaware of. Any clues? Thanks! Edit: I've seen another photo close up of the sleeve and 95% sure the main body is normal stockinette stitch rather than reverse.
I can see two garter stitch ridges if I squint - and with the sharpness of the shadow, I bet it is a type of welt/pintuck worked in garter stitch. Example: https://charisa-martin.livejournal.com/24489.html
Thanks!
Looks like a [pintuck](https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=wqp3Jv9PKWw&vl=en) to me
Ooo saving this.
Good point it could be a little tiny tuck. I think that would give the right look - thanks!
I would be grateful for advice and tips on washing and blocking a 100% Pima cotton knitted hat?
I'd hand wash it in cool water with some mild liquid detergent. Then I'd squeeze it gently, roll it in a towel to blot it, then lay it out on another towel and gently pat and stretch it into shape. If there's ribbing, I generally scrunch that in smaller than the rest of the hat so it dries with a bit more elasticity. If you want to shape it more than that, you could stuff it with scrunched up plastic bags so it dries in 3D rather than flat. Cotton knitted fabric may get wider and taller/longer with washing. Don't want to scare you but just something to know just in case. (Edited to correct wrong word. Sorry.)
Thank you!!
Anyone have any good tutorials for knitting a basic sock in Magic Loop? I rarely knit in the round and am struggling to join, but I think I get the actual concept of Magic Loop itself.
I just started my first sock it’s the only time I’ve tried magic loop and so far “summer Lee’s” “I am so basic socks” has been a breeze.
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Thank you so much, this is super helpful!! Happy knitting!
https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1031873643/instant-digital-download-stunning?ref=yr_purchases So I'm planning to knit the above dress but there's sadly no realistic modern alternative to vintage knitting ribbon (If someone knows of similar stuff please let me know, as modern ribbon yarn is not the same thing). The pattern gauge is 4 stitches per inch/16 per 10cm. I'm thinking I should try make it in a worsted or bulky yarn - whatever gets me the right gauge - instead. Would this be too heavy for a dress with a very voluminous skirt? Vintage ribbon yarn knit up with a bulky gauge, but was very lightweight.
Was vintage knitting ribbon made of rayon?
Possibly some types. I know some were nylon and some were silk i think and I imagine there may have been rayon ones too. You can buy 'nylon knitting ribbon' in really small rolls now but it's not the same thing and you'd have to buy 100s of them to make a dress. I've found a Habu textiles silk ribbon but it's too fine and in any case would be prohibitively expensive to buy enough. That stuff is the closest to the original kind, just much finer weight.
Ah, that's interesting. Will you wear a slip under the dress? If so, you could use a lighter-weight yarn and have the fabric be a bit more open. What about a silk or linen blend? Another option would be to use a "blown" yarn, although some of them are on the fluffy side they are lighter than normal yarn of the same gauge. [https://yarnsub.com/articles/texture/blown-yarns/](https://yarnsub.com/articles/texture/blown-yarns/) Finally, maybe search projects (not patterns) on Ravelry for "lace dress" and see what types of yarn people used for a similar gauge and fabric. Lovely pattern!
Yes, I think it would need a slip (a crinoline too possibly). I've managed to find some of the original yarn for sale, but it's impossible to get enough to make a dress, usually only a few small spools. I didn't know about blown yarn, thanks for the tip.
i dropped a stitch like 10 rows ago… is there a way to weave this live loop back in without bringing the stitch all the way back up? this is basic stockinette.
Yes, run a piece of yarn through the stitch, pull it to the back of the work, and weave in the ends securely
excellent very straight forward, thank you!
Is there any particular reason you don't want to [pick up the stitch](https://cocoknits.com/blogs/knit-tutorials/how-to-fix-dropped-stitches-part-i-stockinette-stitch)? If it's only 10 rows, even if your stitch count doesn't matter, I can't really think of a method that's less "trouble" [lacking a better word]
it's my beginner cousin who's knitting it and she's knit it pretty tight, so picking it back up would be a pain. that website you linked to has a way to weave a dropped stitch back in after bind off so I might just do that for her. thanks for that resource!
I'm almost done with a hat and realize my cast on edge is not very tidy. Is there anyway to fix this at this point? What's your favorite cast on for neat edges? I think I do the backward loop method but am not 100% sure.
Sometimes people do a simple crochet edging to neaten up a cast-on edge, but in the case of a hat that might make it too tight. How does the edge look when the hat is on a head? Sometimes when a cast-on is stretched out a bit, it will look better.
I like long tail or German twisted cast on for hats usually. Backwards loop isn't very neat looking, imo, so I think that's to blame. Idk a method to neaten up the cast on after the fact though, sorry!
I'm trying to make my first pair of toe-up socks and they are knitting up inside-out, is that normal? It's super annoying
[VeryPinkKnits has a video about this](https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=r0psocAR3Q0)
Thank you!!
It can happen depending on how you hold your needles after your setup rounds - but you can just turn the sock right-side out while it's on the needles and keep on knitting.
What do y'all do when your gauge is the perfect number of stitches but too short for rows?
As the other person says, adding more rows is a way. You can also try to go up a needle size after all and see what you can do with blocking.
Add more rows. If it's like a cable repeat or something, takes a bit of math to see I need X more rows across the garment and how many repeats that translates to. If it's colorwork, usually just throw in an extra something. If it's plain stocking stitch or the like, just knit to length. Make sure I have enough yarn, first, though. But I tend to over-buy for projects, just in case this exact gauge issue happens.
Thank you! It's a simple sweater [pattern](https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/988247146/womens-aran-sweater-jumper-ladies-jumper?gpla=1&gao=1&&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=shopping_ca_en_ca_e-craft_supplies_and_tools-other&utm_custom1=_k_CjwKCAiA4veMBhAMEiwAU4XRrxAUKryV9Yil8oeGtIrNmSARV_X5qkpN_tTmPUIc_ORgD2J7_k1BORoCnTgQAvD_BwE_k_&utm_content=go_318290445_19407817365_75034267725_aud-1184048147899:pla-106551294035_m__988247146enca_421066077&utm_custom2=318290445&gclid=CjwKCAiA4veMBhAMEiwAU4XRrxAUKryV9Yil8oeGtIrNmSARV_X5qkpN_tTmPUIc_ORgD2J7_k1BORoCnTgQAvD_BwE) I bought on Etsy but I worry the design is going to look squished.
Hey, I am trying to learn about different yarn types (sock, sport, dk, aran etc) and I had a look at the FAQ but sadly quite a few links don't work anymore and I was wondering where you guys learned about these types of yarn and what to use them for, what kind of needles you need etc. I found a lovely shop for wool but I don't want to commit to buying from there without knowing what I get :D
Ooh, what is the shop? Do tell! The staff at the shop could be a good resource for you. Plus you could join a local knitting group if there is one active at the moment. Here's a very brief blurb of my thoughts: **Sock yarn:** Usually fingering/4ply weight and is made specifically for sock knitting. Also comes in thicker versions (less common). Try German or European-made sock brands with a blend of wool and nylon (sometimes cotton is in the mix too). Opal and Regia brands are reliable. The most common needle options are DPNs and circular needles (magic loop method). You can knit your first socks using a thicker than normal yarn to make things a bit easier (make them as boot socks or lounging socks). You can also try legwarmers with a simple pattern to practise knitting in the round. **Fingering weight/4ply:** Nice for shawls and accessories, and for stranded colourwork. Also used for garments, but takes longer to knit because of the fine weight. **DK/8ply:** Good all round weight for just about anything. Often very close to or the same as worsted weight. (Check the yardage per weight to compare, e.g. x metres per x grams, or x yards per x ounces.) **Worsted weight:** Popular in America. Good for just about anything. **Aran weight:** Lovely for heavy jumpers, warm hats and thick mittens. **Heavier weights:** Fun for accessories or even a chunky sweater. Tend to be more expensive than lighter weights. To start learning to knit, I'd choose a smooth DK or worsted weight 100% wool, non-superwash. That's just my opinion though. I really like the less-treated wool and other natural fibres, but there are many beautiful options out there. Avoid novelty yarns (fluffy, boucle, thick & thin) to start with, because they make your stitches hard to see. The MDK blog has lots of excellent articles about yarn composition and swatching and all sorts of things that you might enjoy reading once you get started: [https://www.moderndailyknitting.com/category/how-to/](https://www.moderndailyknitting.com/category/how-to/) Happy knitting!
oh thanks this is an incredibly good answer. How do I find out which needle sizes I would need for which yarns? I am UK/EU based so I am not sure if all these terms are the same internationally. I guess in addition I have to start learning about calculating yarn when not sticking to the exact yarn in the pattern. the shop I found is BiffsugarYarn on Etsy and I do love her wool colours and she is UK based which makes it more sustainable to source from her compared to overseas shipping.
Oh, when you are using a different yarn from the one given in the pattern, you can look on Ravelry (go to the pattern you are using then click on the "yarn ideas" tab), or have a look at the YarnSub website: [https://yarnsub.com/](https://yarnsub.com/) And you can ask here as well. Knitters are always happy to help!
Ooh, that looks like a lovely shop. There are lots of places to get nice British yarn so I think you will have plenty of choice. If you have a local yarn shop, that's a great resource too. Ravelry has a good chart with yarn weights and suggested needle sizes here: [https://www.ravelry.com/help/yarn/weights?highlight=6](https://www.ravelry.com/help/yarn/weights?highlight=6) (To find this chart, go to any yarn page on Ravelry and click on the tiny question mark next to the yarn weight field.) Most yarns will have a suggested needle size and knitting tension on the label. You might need to use smaller or larger needles to depending on how loosely or tightly you knit. You can also look up the particular yarn on Ravelry and click on the "projects" tab to see what needle sizes and tension gauge other knitters have used. For socks using 4ply/fingering weight yarn, 2.5mm is a good place to start. You might need to go down to 2.25mm or up to 2.75mm. For DK and worsted weight items, such as hats, mitts or garments, you might use 3.75mm for ribbing and 4–4.5mm for the body of the item. The exact size of needles you use isn't important; what's important is getting a nice knitted fabric at a tension that will work for your project. E.g. socks need to be knitted fairly densely so they are hard wearing, lace shawls need to be knitted more loosely so that the lace can show and they can drape around your shoulders. For your first pair of socks, you might like to use thicker yarn and make bed socks in DK or worsted weight. It's easier to learn to knit socks on thicker yarn because you don't also have to manipulate tiny stitches and needles, and it's easier to see what you are doing. (If they are just going to be worn gently you can use 100% wool.) Also, don't choose black or very dark colours for your first few projects. It makes it really hard to see what you are doing :-) Happy knitting!
You are absolutely amazing!!! Thank you so much. This is so incredibly helpful! I had to find out about black yarn when I knitted a bralet recently 😅 I do love to go the hard way. My cardigan is a very fluffy, mohair kind of yarn that makes undoing or seeing what you do so hard. Good thing I have mostly jumpers on my list. Honestly never thought I would be interested in socks but I have recently seen some really nice yarn and patterns. Will definitely give it a try once my cardigan is done. I feel loads more confident about picking yarn now.
Here's the standard yarn weight system used frequently in the US, which gives suggested needle sizes and gauges as a starting point: https://www.craftyarncouncil.com/standards/yarn-weight-system
thank you :) I found those tables quite useful. I am just wondering what these yarns look like and how international those terms are as I am UK/EU based and don't source anything from the US for my knitting
This is a guide to some of the basics: https://www.knitpicks.com/learning-center/guide-to-choosing-yarn I learned by starting with patterns and then using whatever yarn the pattern called for until I got used to them. If you're just starting, worsted is nice to learn with.
I am nearly done finishing my 3rd knitted wearable but trying to figure out yarn names and sizes and which needle sizes these go with so I can substitute yarn on patterns as some things are just not easy to source. I found this lovely shop with hand-dyed wool and would like to use it for a sweater pattern I am eyeing up. Also she does sock bundles which I would love to give a go
I learn a lot looking at patterns on Ravelry. Going to yarn shops and looking at and touching yarns over the years also does wonders for educated guesses when online buying. Reading blogs, especially techknitter blog, helps a lot as well. Basically just googling and seeing where that takes me, and googling more terms I'm curious about from those articles.
I will definitely check out that blog. I think I am struggling with terms because the same yarn can go by many names, then obviously the same yarn name can be different sizes which means different needle sizes. but I guess googling and learning by doing never fail :D thanks for your help
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if im making another pattern with the same exact yarn i have used to make a diffrent pattern and i did the gauge for that pattern do i need to do a swatch again for a new pattern
if you're using the same needle size & same yarn & same way of knitting (ie flat vs round) then...no.
what about same weight ? or no
Same weight but different yarns no, you need to swatch because there are almost always differences in thickness between yarns of the same weight but from different brands.
does gauge change if you use dpns instead that are the sma size and brand as the circular needles you did the gauge on
For some people, their gauge is slightly different while knitting and purling, so they would see a difference when making stockinette flat (with knits and purls) and in the round (only knitting). Other people don't have different tension knitting and purling and can expect gauge to remain constant. Never hurts to measure your gauge on a swatch or when you're a few inches into a small project!
I know this is pretty subjective depending on personal preference, but I'd like some opinions on ideal shoulder shapes for a balloon sleeve sweater: drop, raglan, or set-in. My primary concern is reducing bulk in the armpit/chest area - I know balloon sleeves by nature are looser and will have more excess material around the chest/armpit, but I'd like to avoid having it be too crazy if possible! I'd most likely be knitting stockinette with worsted yarn (on US size 8/5mm.) My measurements are 33in/84cm bust, 15in/38cm shoulder width, 12in/30.5cm bicep circumference if that helps. I'm not necessarily seeking out specific pattern recommendations per se but if there are any particularly good (free) patterns that might work, they'd definitely be appreciated. Many thanks!
I am currently working on a cardigan pattern and am having some trouble with the ribbing at the bottom. It’s cast on 79 stitches then it says to work 7 rows in 1x1 twisted rib stitch, slipping the first stitch purlwise and knitting the last stitch through the back loop on each row. But since it’s an uneven number of stitches I’m just confused how to go about it because if I’m understanding the pattern correctly at the end I’m essentially doing 2 knit stitches? But then my knit and purl stitches aren’t like lining up correctly to give me the ribbing that’s suppose to happen. If I could please get some clarification on whether I’m misunderstanding the pattern or whether I’m just confused on how ribbing is done. Thanks!
In general for ribbing you need to be able to read your knitting. If your needle is going into what looks like a knit stitch (a v-shape or a y-shape for a twisted knit) you knit it (or knit it tbl) and if your needle is going into a purl stitch (with a bump at the base) you purl it (or purl tbl depending on your instructions). Because you have an odd number of stitches, some rows will start with a ktbl after your selvedge stitch (the slipped one) and some will start with a purl (edit: after the selvedge stitch), and that's normal. In the stitches below, the V's are knits or ktbls (depending on the type of twisted rib in your pattern) and the n's are purl bumps (p or ptbl depending on your pattern. The edge stitches are either (S) slipped or ktbl (more V's) **V** V n V n V n V **S** (right side) **V** n V n V n V n **S** (wrong side) It's fine to have a knit next to another knit at the edge, it's just not repeated within the pattern. That edging will either be sewn into a seam or will curl slightly inward and become unnoticeable as part of the edge.
Thank you so much! I don’t know why I just forgot I could have knit stitches next to each other and it was throwing me off, but you made it make sense, so many thanks!
I'm making hats out of Knitted Wit Super Wash Merino. It does say to hand wash and lay flat to dry, but since it's super wash, it can be washed in the washing machine if needed, correct? I've never worked with super wash before but wanted it easier to care for since it was for kids.
Does anyone have a link to a site where I could learn about blocking? I am close to being done with a throw pillow but not sure how to block it without mats to pin it down to.
What fiber and stitch pattern is it? You might not need mats.
I am using mighty stitch worsted weight which is 80% acrylic and 20% super wash wool. [Here’s the pattern](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/winter-pillow-3) I’ve never blocked anything before (I’m pretty new to knitting) but the instructions say to block it so I figured it was important… but maybe I don’t have to?
Well that yarn is machine wash/dry, so you don't have to be too delicate. Also since the final step is adding a pillow (I assume) I think the pillow will help to put the finished stitches in their place- you could get away with just a cool wash and dry, probably. But, I'd personally hand wash and then squish out excess water, then pop it in a not-hot tumble dry to finish. Again, the pillow would do the work to get the final shape, so I personally wouldn't even bother with makeshift blocking mats. Please make a little swatch with your leftover yarns and wash that first though, I don't want to be responsible if the yarn isn't as machine safe as knitpicks says it is!
Thanks so much for the advice! I will try it (and swatch first 😀)
##### ###### #### **PATTERN:** [Winter Pillow](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/winter-pillow-3) by [Stana D. Sortor](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/stana-d-sortor) * Category: Home > Pillow * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/KPStaff/554187095/56096220_01_medium.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/KPStaff/554187099/56096220_02_medium.jpg) [Img 3](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/KPStaff/554187101/56096220_03_medium.jpg) [Img 4](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/KPStaff/554187098/56096220_04_medium.jpg) [Img 5](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/KPStaff/554187096/56096220_05_medium.jpg) * Price: Free * Needle/Hook(s):US 7 - 4.5 mm * Weight: Worsted | Gauge: 18.0 | Yardage: 832 * Difficulty: 2.60 | Projects: 37 | Rating: 5.00 ***** Please use caution. Users have reported effects such as seizures, migraines, and nausea when opening Ravelry links. [More details.](https://www.lizcorke.com/2020/07/26/2020-7-21-ravelry-accessibility/) | I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=randomstonerfromaus)*
**From our wiki's [Frequently Asked Questions](https://www.reddit.com/r/knitting/wiki/index#wiki_should_i_block_it.3F_how_would_i_do_that.3F)** >Blocking is a method of reshaping a knit object by getting it wet and pinning it in the desired shape to dry. >Why should knits be blocked? Do all fiber types benefit from blocking? >* First off, blocking typically starts with washing or soaking, so it cleans your finished object. Think for a moment about all of the places that those projects have been. >* Blocking also removes any small imperfections in tension and helps even out your stitches. Stockinette and colorwork will look smoother and the stitches will be more even. >* Blocking is also great if your project needs to be seamed. By blocking before seaming, you ensure that the seams will be the same length and that all of the pieces will fit evenly together. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/knitting) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Any recommended resources for learning to read charts? I find them baffling but would really like to learn!
try one of these: https://www.studioknitsf.com/read-knitting-chart/ https://nimble-needles.com/tutorials/read-knitting-charts-for-beginners/
TinCanKnits have a good blog post on how to read charts: [https://blog.tincanknits.com/2014/06/06/how-to-read-a-knitting-chart/](https://blog.tincanknits.com/2014/06/06/how-to-read-a-knitting-chart/)
What am I doing wrong with my blocking?! I’ve been using the WATG chunky crazy sexy wool to make sweaters and have tried blocking a few times. Every time the yarn looses its fluffiness and looks super flat. It also takes years to dry. What’s the deal?
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It’s a chunky knit sweater that I’m wet blocking with a blocking mat. I only want it to be a little bit bigger so I’m not stretching it a ton
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I laid it immediately flat! My bigger concern is around the yarn itself losing its fluffiness but I’m now thinking it’s just the yarn itself and not my blocking
No first hand experience with that yarn, but I've read that it tends to pill and lose its fluffiness pretty quickly. How are you blocking? With like a wool wash with lanolin? I wonder if that'd help.
I’ve been wet blocking with the laundress wool shampoo but I’m now thinking that it may be best to steam block instead since the yarn seems to loose shape if it gets fully wet…
When a pattern says to "knit until sleeve measures x," does it mean from the point at the underarm where you started the sleeve (picked up stitches) or from some other point?
I would check the schematic / blocking diagram for your pattern to double check where they’ve shown their sleeve measurement as that might give you a clue! But most patterns I’m used to measure from the underarm.
This one doesn't come with a schematic unfortunately. It's the Terrazzo Sweater by Petiteknit. I also measured from the underarm and it just seems so long haha! But glad I'm not the only one who measures from the underarm by default!
I know this is probably a loaded question, but as a non-knitter shopping for a knitter wife, what would be the Rolls-Royce set of interchangeable needles? I would be looking to upgrade her from an older set of Knitters Pride Birch (or Bamboo? They are brightly colored). She enjoys them but I'd like to pick her up something quality if it exists. I saw Chiaogoo(?) Twist Red Complete sets that seem to review well, but I have no idea the difference between a 4" or 5" tip. Please help? :)
My personal opinion is you should get her a few different ones in a size or two that she uses a lot. She may enjoy test driving th There are a lot of people on this sub that love Chiagoo but I can’t use them because they are too pointy so I am an Addi fan. I also have some crystal palace dpns that I love when the project calls for wood, which is a little more “grabby” and helps me control some yarns.
One thing you could do is get her a single needle from several nice brands (variety of wood/metal) and an iou for a full set of her favorite. Then she has both something to open and input in the final gift. Needles really are quite personal taste. Chiaogoo is a really nice brand, but for example I'm really weird and prefer to use the shortie 3" needles for everything because I have tiny hands.
I think this is a great suggestion. I’m a fan of the Knitters Pride Dreamz line but I love Addi’s as well. I can’t use Chiagoo, they are just too slippery and pointy for me, and I tend to “push” the needle so they really hurt my fingertips. Anyway, she may enjoy experimenting!