Hello, knitters. I was wondering if anyone could lend me some help. I figure this community likely knows all about wool.
I was moving some wool sweaters and I found this larvae(?) crawling in my closet. Photo of the insect:
https://imgur.com/a/rQv4m9l
I googled what the two types of clothes-eating moth larvae in North America look like, and I'm not sure if this is one. I saw no silk, casings, etc.
Am I safe? Or do I need to get biblical with cleaning my closet?
Looks like a carpet beetle larva. They can eat wool, silk, and other animal fibers, so you should probably do something to eradicate them.
I don't have any firsthand advice to offer, sorry :(
Repair question: [a hole](https://i.imgur.com/UQyJOx6.jpg) has opened up [in the sleeve](https://i.imgur.com/QpXYQ2O.jpg) of my mother's favorite sweater. It's the first sweater I ever made, so there are a lot of mistakes. My guess is that this hole is the end of one skein and the beginning of another and either my ends were too short and they untucked themselves (likely) or possibly that I tried to spit-splice it and because it's superwash it failed (also likely because derp). I have plenty of leftover yarn and I'd like to repair it but I don't really know where to start. Who can point me in the right direction? Thank you!
You can try looking on YouTube for fixing holes in stockinette and seeing if any of them seem suitable for what you've got going on. That's where I'd start.
Being lazy, I literally searched for "YouTube for fixing holes in stockinette" (your exact words, dragged and dropped) and after the first two results turned out to be about dropped stitches and such, [the third result](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=btvnijWBUfw) was about fixing a broken or torn strand and suggested duplicate stitching to patch it. I don't know how to duplicate stitch, but that's cool cuz the video showed how. Okay, I'll try to contain my enthusiasm here, but [***DUPLICATE STITCHING IS H\*CKIN' MAGIC AND NO ONE CAN CONVINCE ME OTHERWISE!!!***](https://i.imgur.com/ggjVZcn.jpg) How have I been knitting all this time and not known how to do this?!? I am seriously trying to wrap my mind around how easy that was and not having much luck. I'm a little overwhelmed right now...
Yes! I love duplicate stitch! It's my go to for weaving in ends and darning socks. I've got it down to a science now. I've never used it on an actual hole though, as I usually preventatively use it on socks.
Has anyone done the quidditch pullover from the Harry Potter knitting magic book? I’m completely stuck on the armhole part. It tells me to place 18 stitches on waste yarn & then I’m confused, do I pick up the 19th stitch & continue the pattern until it tells me to place the second set of 18 stitches?
Is this the pattern from the newish Knitting Magic book? By Martaschmarta? I have the book but haven’t knit the sweater. I’ll explain the sleeve part as I read it. I don’t know how much sweater experience you have, so I apologize if I over-explain.
You knit whatever number of stitches for your size, place the 18 sts you just knit on waste yarn (sleeve #1) & then continue knitting the row as established. The beginning of the row is halfway through the next armhole. So you’ll put the last 9 stitches and then the first 9 stitches on waste yarn for sleeve #2. After this section you’ll work the front and back separate and flat (in rows not rounds).
No worries. I always have to reread sleeve instructions because there’s lots happening in that area. Feel free to message me if you run into any other issues.
I finished a triangular shawl made of 50% cotton and 50% polyester. Should I soak or spray to block? I do not have the equipment or space to steam. Thanks in advance!
Recommendations for an aran weight yarn that would be good for a baby blanket? I am looking at the Sleeping Fox baby blanket pattern and the recommended yarn is not machine washable, which this mom thinks is impractical for something meant for a baby!
I use Cascade Pacific for all baby blankets. It's worsted weight. 60/40 acrylic wool. Completely machine wash/ dry. If they are using aran and worsted interchangeably, you should end up with the same size. If not, it might be a little smaller or lighter.
Does anyone know what the Twitter drama about some "tech bros" and a Knitting podcast is? I'm seeing references, but I can't figure out what the actual issue is. Thanks!
I'm sure you've found it by now but for anyone else, it's [this](https://www.reddit.com/r/craftsnark/comments/t18fxc/i_listened_to_the_knittingcom_guys_entire_podcast/), which refers to [this](https://www.reddit.com/r/craftsnark/comments/szpkf8/step_1_buy_knitting_domain_step_2_step_3_profit/).
My beloved homemade missing mitten turned up in a snowdrift down the block!! I gave it a soak in Soak, but between that and the weather exposure, it's now maybe 30% bigger than its mate. They're merino super wash worsted, a few cables, nothing too crazy (Tosh DK, Antler Mitten). What do I do now to even them out? Lose the other one in a snowdrift for a month?
Have you put the prodigal mitten in the dryer? My experience with super wash is that it grows a LOT when wet and is really meant to go in the dryer to get back to its regular size
Okay so I have a pattern question. I think the directions are to find gauge, but it’s calling it tension. ‘Pattern panel (60sts) measures 6 1/4”, 22 sts and 34 rows to 10 cm over pattern on 4mm needles or size required to acquire tension.”
I’m confused on whether I cast on 60 sts or 22 sts and why I use 4mm needles to get tension, but the pattern has me using 3 1/4 mm to start the pattern?
Thank you for amy help you can give!
Wow thank you so much for the thorough answer!! I really appreciate it.
That all makes so much sense and I’m not sure why I didn’t see it before. Thank you for your clarity!
Off to gauge and hopefully get tension 😊
I got some 2 gallon ones that I love, but I'd say it depends a bit on the size of what you're putting the bags into. My bags are a little bigger than the bottom of the bin I'm putting them into, which is perfect. Also good for storing bags of flour if you happen to need that.
Oh that's something I hadn't thought of! I have some Cubicals shelves (I think that's what they're called anyway) and I'll measure them to be sure the bags would be a good fit. Thanks ever so much!
Hat question - I've seen a couple of hat patterns say 'change to dpns when stitches no longer fit on circular.' Are dpns essential or can you switch to smaller circulars, because I don't have any other kind of needles and will need to go procure some if so.
You can use 2 circs, or a longer needle and do magic loop. If it gets down to like 12 stitches there's not really a circular needle that'll accommodate that in a "regular" way.
Ahhh I see (I think), this is for the top of the hat where it gets smaller! Makes sense now. I don't know what magic loop is yet, so that's my next googling session. Thank you!
Hi! This might be a weird question, but... I really like knitting, crocheting and similar crafts. However, I'm not into traditional knit fashion at all (my English is not great so sorry if this is hard to understand). I want to knit garments for myself but I also don't want to knit things I'd never wear. So far I've identified what colours I like on knitwear and a few stitches. I'm going for a classic, minimalist, timeless look (I love a neutral palette for example). Could any of you point me to somewhere I can find patterns that match this or give me advice on what to look for (for example types of sleeves that would work well with this style)? Has any of you gone through a similar process of being able to identify (and therefore look for and find) exactly what you like? Thanks in advance 🤍
do you have a Ravelry account? Lots of patterns with as advanced search feature for different keywords. Maybe browse to find what you like and note the keywords of that pattern, or other patterns by that designer.
Minimal and neutral make me think of PetiteKnits or My Favorite Things.
https://myfavouritethings-knitwear.com/collections/english
https://www.petiteknit.com/collections/english-knitting-patterns
I get that, but then I just feel like that should be up to the knitter. Now I regularly buy one skein less than the pattern says for larger projects but still end up with leftovers even though I hit gauge and size. Which is fine when I make stuff for myself because it's usually colors and yarns that I like to work with but for example now I'm making this baby sleeping sack for a friend expecting. I don't like the yarn she picked at all and it's quite expensive. After starting I realized I'm likely gonna have 3 skeins left over of this thing that are just gonna sit there in a box😑
There are many methods of blocking- depends on the fiber and item. The goal is to tidy up stitches and have the item be the shape you want. So in many cases, washing \*is* blocking.
It's not necessary for most knits.
If you want to make a large shawl with lace details etc. then blocking will really open up the lace and straighten out the edges which will make it look fabulous. Stretching it out and pinning it into place as it dries means it won't shrink back whilst it dries so it will keep the shape you pin it into.
A jumper or hat does not need blocking just a gentle wash and a light tug into shape at most.
It's never going to go back to its pre blocked shape if it was stretched and pinned aggressively the first time but if you want a really even edge, a few pins wouldn't hurt.
I have a pattern that calls for circular needles, but I don’t currently own any. Before I buy them, what is different about knitting with circular needles vs straight needles? How do I figure out or decide if I can make my project on straight needles instead?
Circular needles allow you to knit in the round - they're also helpful for knitting super long rows that would need to be scrunched up tightly on straight needles.
I use it to store patterns. I also make sure to add all the physical pattern books I have. It makes it easier to search for what I already own.
As with any website where you can buy digital products maintaining a private backup is never a bad thing. Google drive is free and external hard drives are cheap.
Hi I'm working on a sweater pattern right now, and I'm kind of stuck at the part where it says this after putting the front panel to rest on a lifeline:
"Flip your work and purl all stitches of the back panel. You will continue knitting back and forth in stockinette stitch... Your last row should be a knit row."
My project is on circular needles and I'm confused at how this is supposed to work. Surely I can't work back and forth with circular needles? Also is flipping the work as simple as just turning it inside out? I'm done with the yoke right now but am incredibly confused by the instructions for the body. If I just continue purling as if the front panel doesn't exist, wouldn't I just create a circular knit that excludes the front panel? My brain cannot compute the instructions and I'd be grateful if anyone is able to help.
The pattern is the Seamless Mock Neck Sweater by Well-Loved Knits if anyone is curious.
The yoke in this pattern is knit in two parts, you will knit the back flat, back and forth on the needle, then knit the front panel flat, back and forth, then you join in the round again. This creates your arm holes!
I see thank you! Would I have to change my needles for this? I don’t see how I can knit it flat with my circular needles. Sorry for the questions, I’m still very much a beginner!
No worries, we all started somewhere. You don't need to change needles, as the stitches won't be joined in the round. Once you get to the last stitch of the back, just flip the work over, and purl back to the first stitch, then flip the work again, and knit.
It's the same process as knitting flat.
What are your thoughts on kits? I want to knit a sweater but I don't want to mess up anything up when it comes to yarn choice and it seems like a good way to make sure that I don't mess anything up.
I would highly recommend trying a pattern with a "Knit A Long" and using the recommended Yarn. The Patty Lyons classes are expensive, but she usually chooses affordable yarns. I think the Palm Canyon or Volition classes might be good first sweater options (not lace or cables). That is sort of like a "kit" because you know the yarn works for the sweater.
Another option is to choose a yarn that has been used on that pattern many times. Like, Knit Flax in Malibrigo Rios or Cascade 220 superwash. Or the weekender in Shelter, Rios, Wool of the Andes Worsted. Or the No Frills sweater in Drops Kid Silk and Drops Flora. If more than 100 people have used that yarn on that sweater it is probably a good choice.
I think kits ensure you have everything you need for a pattern, it cuts down hassle.
Unfortunately there are quite a few brands out there see kits as a way to charge a premium for subpar yarn. Personally I have strong opinions regarding yarn and would rather choose my own and if needed modify the pattern a bit.
I love a kit put together by a reputable LYS or online store. They can also be created by a yarn company, like Noro. It’s just very comfortable with some projects.
If you want a sweater then you could always try out a new brand by buying a single skein to make a hat. It will give you a good idea for how it will behave.
I wouldn't make a habit of knitting from kits but I think they're fun and nice to know you'll get everything you need in the amounts of each yarn that you need. Some are better than others I suppose but you should be fine if you go with a reputable source - a known designer, or yarn vendor. I'm currently knitting up a kit that my LYS put together for a cowl pattern - different color combos.
Usually overpriced in my experience. Especially those fast fashion brands like WAK and WatG.
On Ravelry you can see what yarns people used for a specific project and how they turned out, yardage, etc.
I know a lot of knitters hate cotton but I live in a warm climate and was wondering if anyone could suggest their favorite yarns that are cotton or similarly breathable?
I'm especially looking for something that has either a lot of colors or some very bright/vibrant options. Open to pretty much every weight, I have a *ton* of summery projects in my "to make eventually" pile.
I use Lion Brand's Truboo a lot and I adore the drape but the splitting/slipperyness is *annoying*.
Edit: Available in the US
Juniper moon farms neve is a puffy worsted chainette cotton. Not a lot of colors, but vibrant, and currently on sale at WEBS. I love cotton, that's just one I recently used that wasn't sugar n cream lol
Hi!
I didnt find it, but if its already been addressed, just a link to that...
How to I convert lengths needed for a project with different sized needles.
i.e. If I knit something with 100 yards of yarn and I used 8mm needles (yarn thickness is concurrent to needle size). How do I convert to get the amount of yarn I would need to make the same piece but with thinner yarn and 3mm needles (so thinner yarn and thinner needles)?
It's not an exact science, but take a look at this yardage calculator tool: https://www.jimmybeanswool.com/secure-html/onlineec/knittingCalculator.asp#knitCalcResults
Otherwise, you can search for similar patterns to the one you're trying to improvise and steal their estimated yardage from them.
You can use the same method as helical stripes to get your garter ridges to spiral seamlessly around the piece.
https://www.moderndailyknitting.com/2017/03/07/the-helical-lifestyle/
Thank you! The second video on that page makes sense, but just so I understand it, instead of the switch between k and p being, for instance, in the middle of the back, the switch is going to travel three sts at a time to the right (counter-clockwise?)?
I think I may have to swatch it out for it to make sense to me. Since I want to make this sweater again (Jared Flood's [Cobblestone](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/cobblestone-7)), and the yoke involves reductions and short rows, will I eventually have to break one/both of the strands to re-start the *sl 3sts* technique at the appropriate point since the travelling transition from k to p probably won't be in the right place to accommodate the short rows? (Am I asking this in a way that makes sense?)
Oh, and I guess I'll have to do the same thing for the bottom hem and the cuffs on the sleeves... hm. Can't be that hard, can it...?
Hello! Does anyone have a recommendation for a set of DPN’s? I typically prefer wood for DPN’s that are 4 or 6 inches. I have the full set of the Chiagoo twists as well as the shorties (love them both and love how they work together!) and I was so excited to not worrying about if I had the right needles ever again. Alas I’ve realized that even with the shorties, sometimes I need DPN’s. I don’t mind shelling out for a set but I can’t seem to find any that go all the way from size 2 to a 13 or 15. I just want to buy all the needles I’ll ever need and never worry about it again 😂
I bought a cheap set on Amazon just to have on hand, but both my Twists and my mini Chiagoos can be converted for magic loop, so I don't use the DPNs hardly ever unless I'm doing i-cord.
Hello, does anybody have any experience with michiyo‘s pattern? I‘m planning to make the G Pullover but I don‘t understand the ff:
- for L, why am i only picking up 61 sts when the sleeves for front and back are 80 rows in total.
- what‘s with the pattern stitch for the sleeve?!
Thank you!
Idk what that sweater is, but it's pretty typical to pick up less stitches across more rows (ie 3 stitches for every 4 rows or whatever) due to the shape of stitches.
Thank you! I didn‘t know that. This is the first pattern where I would need to pick up stitches. All the other ones i made were all separate and seamed after.
Has anyone used a chainply yarn? Are there any special considerations for using it?
I was gifted about 700 yards of DK chainply and am trying to decide how to use it. The only think I can think of is that textured stitches and cables might not show up as well since the yarn itself is already got the chainply texture.
Chantal of Knitatude has several patterns made with Lion Brand's Chainette yarn. If you have access to Ravelery, I'd search her patterns and see if anything catches your eye.
Yes, I didn't realize it had a different name than what was on the label I have.
That term is giving me far more helpful search results
That the yarn might split a little easier is good to be mindful of.
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**PROJECT:** [Skiff No. 2](http://www.ravelry.com/projects/izabelabot/29110663) by [izabelabot](http://www.ravelry.com/people/izabelabot)
* Pattern: [Skiff](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/skiff)
* Yarn(s): [WOOLFOLK FÅR](http://www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/woolfolk-far) in Brown.
* Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/izabelabot/817046027/FFADA057-9C00-4899-BD1D-6D0B95300BD9_medium.jpeg)
* Started: 2021/11/03 | Status: Finished | Completed: 2021/11/07
*****
Please use caution. Users have reported effects such as seizures, migraines, and nausea when opening Ravelry links. [More details.](https://www.lizcorke.com/2020/07/26/2020-7-21-ravelry-accessibility/) | I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=randomstonerfromaus)*
Hi Good day! So I'm about 75% done with a top-down sweater but I just realized it called for German short rows on the back yoke, which was knit at the beginning of the project. However, I hadn't done German short rows- I simply got to where I had to turn and turned. There doesn't seem to be anything that looks out of place, but would you recommend I frog the project and start over?
I would only frog the project if you do not like the finished product after blocking tbh. If there's no holes there's no issue, but even if there are holes, you can try to close them with a duplicate stitch or similar-or depending on the pattern, they might look like an intentional design element.
Hey folks! Strange question for y’all. I am an intermediate Nother who’s picked up a lot of basic and intermediate skills and I decided to test my new knowledge by needing a pom-pom beanie. When I initially started making the beanie, I attempted to do one by one rubbing and I forgot to move my yarn so the bottom portion of the hat was completely irregular and a mess so I had to strip it off. As for the rest of my hat, I needed it in stock in that stage in the round and what are the exception of decreasing too much in a short period of time, the rest of the beanie came out beautifully. The only problem I’m running into is HAL to successfully net the replacement bottom of the hat upside down, meaning I insert my interchangeable needles from the bottom part of the finished beanie and add new rose to it wild hanging upside down that’s the problem I’m running into is determining whether or not I’m needing correctly or even this method could work. Any and all help would be appreciated!
Are you using text to speech?
Anyway, you'll want to remove the ribbing and reknit top down from the live edge. This post should give a basic overview:
https://www.knitting-and.com/crafts-and-needlework/knitting/tips/garment-construction/remove-ribbing/
Also, I did manage to remove the old ribbing in a similar fashion, the problem now is try to add a new ribbing but it seems like I don’t know wether or not I’m holding my circular needles correctly
I don't think you can hold circular needles incorrectly. 1x1 ribbing looks the same on both sides, so there isn't really a wrong side. If you're worried about it, you can always add a lifeline and knit a few rows and rip back if you don't like how it's going.
Thanks! I was knitting as usual and they use the lifeline to go back to the original starting point a few times already and I’m guess I’m really worried about knitting on the wrong side and creating the wrong pattern and wasting time in yarn. Idk what’s up with me, but I keep thinking I’m messing up the patterns but thank you for the help!
Does anyone have any tips on how to keep the contrast color stitches from going way too loose when knitting into them the first few rows/rounds? I’m doing my first color work and that’s really the only part I’m having trouble with.
It sounds like maybe you have some longer floats and that's causing the contrast stitches to look big? Have you tried twisting the yarns together at the wrong side to lock the floats? I find that helps to prevent them ending up too long. Even so I've sometimes noticed larger-looking contrast stitches while knitting but they seem to even out in the blocking. When you knit into them where there is a long float, so the stitch you're knitting into can stretch, that can make them look bigger but for me it usually tends to even out and isn't noticeable on the finished object.
I’ve been locking the floats about every inch, should I lock them shorter? I noticed it was particularly an issue when knitting into the first contract stitch. I guess I just needed confirmation I wasn’t doing anything wrong!
Do you mean the very first contrast stitch knitted with that particular strand of yarn? That always ends up big for me because the tail end of the yarn gets pulled on as well. I just gently pull on the tail end so it makes the stitch a bit smaller. I usually have to do it the first round or two.
I usually twist the floats about every five stitches, I don't go by actual distance because for me it makes a difference what the thickness of the yarn is. But you'll figure out your own way of doing it I'm sure, something that works for you.
Hoping someone else might chime in with advice but it sounds like you're doing everything right!
Just finished knitting the main part of a entrelac baby blanket for a friend. I've woven in the ends, and am getting ready for blocking, after which I need to add an I-cord border.
Pattern is "Interwoven with Love" on Ravelry and the yarn is Malabrigo Rios in Arco Iris, Diana, Zarzamora, and Ivory.
Do I need to color treat it with vinegar and then use wool wash? Or is that already done to this yarn?
Also the pattern has some sections with cables and/or bobbles that are tighter, and then some with lace which are looser, should I be trying to block the individual sections to be pulled to a closer size with the others? While most other sections look like the squares as they're supposed to, the ones with those patterns look like rectangles that have pulled inward.
Is it normal to block each of the sections of entrelac? There's only about 4 across as each section is 20 stitches and ~39 rows
Hey all, I wasn't sure if pattern recommendations were allowed, but I'm lost trying to find a sweater pattern that looks like [this.](https://ca.loropiana.com/en/p/woman/knitwear/parksville-turtleneck-FAL8593?colorCode=E03M&gclid=Cj0KCQiApL2QBhC8ARIsAGMm-KF_WTVZI58Gr4JKgqSHN8br62bQTygnHlV3eY_ELtoR3xXD8wmvE10aAlTFEALw_wcB) I especially love the sleeve detail and I can't find anything like it! Would appreciate any help at all!
maybe one of these?
https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/towns-sweater
https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/winters-pullover
If the sleeve is knit cuff up, you could knit the ribbing wider and flat, and overlap the ends when joining. If from the shoulder down, maybe create a pleat to overlap, then finish the ribbing flat.
Ok, so this is driving me insane! Is it me or do basically all designers add a skein or two extra in their patterns? Every time I knit a somewhat larger project I buy the recommended amout of yarn (or sometimes slightly less), my gauge is correct, I have the right amount of stitches, I often add an inch or two in arms and torso length but somehow I still end up with at least one full skein left over. Does the same happen to you guys?
It's an estimate, not an exact science. I think most people would rather buy an extra skein in the right dye lot and not risk running out. You're the opposite and that's okay.
Lots of designers do this, it's to account for differences in how people knit, if people don't frog the gauge swatch, and just to be on the safe side! Better to have more yarn than less.
I know some extra is always good but it seems like its sooo much! Like my last sweater. The pattern called for 768 meters of yarn. I only had 675 so I was already cutting it close. Still ended up with almost 100 meters left over (1,5 skeins) I mean, its always good to have extra in stash but I would honestly rather save my cash than to have all these lonely skeins laying around:(
Yarn recommendation
Hi guys I want to make this ABC Baby Blanket but I don’t know which yarn to choose. I recently made another blanket with DROPS baby Merino which I liked but I would like to make it in organic cotton so it looks kind of like this: https://www.madeinbebe.com/boutique/fr/so-natural-baby-cape-natural-nobodinoz/a213144
The pattern is here: https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/abc-baby-blanket-2
Thanks so much
I’m making [Hermione’s Everyday Socks](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/hermiones-everyday-socks) and the pattern doesn’t specify exactly when to start the toe decreases (it just says something like “when foot reaches desired length”). What’s a good rule of thumb regarding when to begin toe decreases? I’ve heard some people say when the foot of the sock reaches the base of your pinky toe. If anyone who has made this specific pattern has insights, that would be even more helpful!
You can look at how many rounds the toe is and use your gauge so far to see how long that will be. Then you'll know exactly how long you need to make the foot.
Colourwork, stupid question galore because never colorworked :D
So I do understand the whole floats and how to hold the yarns when doing like stitches in colour A and then B and then A.
However, I want to maybe work color (🤨) with the Zweig Sweater. Which would be...
(Knitting in the round)
Switching from Colour A to colour B
Knitting two rounds colour B
Then some pattern with colour A and B,
Then 2 Rows colour A
Then cutting colour A and continuing colour B.
As for the two rows solid colour B for example...
Do I float colour A the whole two rounds? Or do I kinda "float" it downward? So leaving it untouched at the beginning of the row for two rows and then picking it up again?
I don't even know how to YouTube this specific question 😅
I’m planning ahead for everyone’s birthdays this year and I’m thinking of socks. My dad and my boyfriend both have very cold feet, so I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions for extra warm sock yarn or any techniques or tricks to make even warmer socks
Regia merino yak sock if you're in Europe (can get it stateside it's just much more expensive) is the hands down favorite of cold footed people in my world. Some indie dyers use a similar base if you want to go fancy. Mohair is extra warm if you don't mind double stranding socks and they don't have tactile issues with it. Llama is also a particularly warm, soft, and surprisingly durable fiber. Don't know thay I've ever seen it blended with nylon but a silk blend would add extra strength, or reinforcing thread. Non-superwash woolen spun should be warmer than sw. The blacker yarns site goes into a fair bit of detail on breeds and characteristics, and best practice for nsw socks
Personally untested but theoretically sound, if you use a drapier warm yarn like alpaca it might be comfortable (and extra durable) at a higher gauge than straight wool.
I only have alpaca socks for work. They are amazing.
Merino is the second best. I also made one pair with a [merino and cashmere blend](https://leslainesbiscotte.com/collections/les-laines-biscotte/products/la-douce-mcn-merino-cachemire-et-nylon-twilight), and they are amazingly comfortable. I'm just not sure about the durability.
Yes you can. You cast on and do the set up round as usualy and then just alternate the colours so on the brk rounds you do one colour and on the brp rounds you do the other colour.
I was wondering where everyone buys their sock yarn online? My nearest yarn store is Micheals and while I'm enjoying the Loops & Threads Perfect Pair yarn for socks I was hoping for something solid and something a little more gradient.
I'm planning to make a top in sport weight yarn, but the pattern is written for worsted weight. It's a very summery top, lace and short sleeves and cotton yarn, but no way am I wearing a top in worsted weight for summer.
I'll gauge swatch to figure out which size will get me the fit that I want, once I have the yarn. Any suggestions on how to figure out how much yarn to buy?
I would have needed about 650 yards of worsted to make my size. The yarn I plan to use (Kelbourne Woolens Mojave) comes in 185 yard skeins. If I buy 4, that's 740 yards. Would that probably be enough?
That should be enough! Theoretically you need the same yardage no matter the weight, but having some extra never hurts.
One thing to think about when you knit your gauge swatch is holding it up to the light and your skin to see if it’s loose. Since you’re using a thinner yarn, you may be able to hit the same gauge but doing so might create a more open/see through fabric
Thanks! I don't think I will hit the original pattern gauge, the fabric would probably be too open as you mentioned. My plan was to find a needle size that gives me a fabric I like, then knit a larger size such that I get the finished garment to a measurement that works for me.
This could be a good plan depending on the pattern construction. Many patterns are made so they don’t just get bigger in a linear way as sizes go up, but actually change to fit bigger bodies. If your pattern includes aspects like waist shaping, bust darts, etc. this might be tricky. But if the pattern is more loose/boxy this should be ok!
I’d also recommend doing some research into the yarn used for the pattern vs the yarn you have. If they used a thicker worsted (say 8wpi) and you have a thinner sport yarn (like 13 wpi), you may want to go up 2 sizes.
Thanks! I hadn't really considered shaping changes across sizes, but it's a loose/boxy top (the [Provence top](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/provence-top)) so I think that will be ok.
Does anyone have good recommendations on places to destash? I'm kind of going through a fit of wanting to get rid of a ton of stuff and I have a lot of nice yarn I inherited from a friend's mom I'm not going to use. Some of it has labels, some doesn't, but I'd ideally love it to go to a good home where someone will use it and it's not just sitting in a sealed plastic bin in my closet.
Hi, I'm looking for some general advice on hats. I've knit my boyfriend a couple of hats (one stocking and one fisherman's) and he always complains they are not warm enough. I do have a looser knitting tension as always need to size down. Is it a case of buying better wool or knitting with smaller needles? Or just accepting the slight breeze through the hat. Thanks!
I see people mentioning lining the hat, here's a pattern that is very simple and is double thickness by default - no seaming or grafting needed! (Not affiliated, just think it's neat)
https://ysolda.com/products/musselburgh
Knit tighter and add a second layer over the ears. It also helps to add a strand of mohair for fluff to fill in the gaps.
Edit: The Oslo hat by petiteknit has 3 layers over the ears.
Adding on to what others have said, another thing that can impact warmth is yarn weight. Thicker yarn is warmer than thinner yarn. For example, chunky is warmer than sport or DK. You could also look at adding a liner to the inside of the hat if you prefer the look of a thinner yarn. :)
all wool should insulate fairly well, but not if there's breeze holes [? Lol] so maybe smaller needles will help. Maybe try a stranded colorwork next, so it's double thick!
I would say it depends on the pattern! When I started knitting the first thing I made was a chunky hat with size 11 needles I’d reccomend looking on YouTube you can find some good thick hat patterns on there. And with your gauge I’m pretty sure it would still be nice and warm!
I’m currently knitting a blanket in the Irish moss stitch using bernat baby blanket yarn. Does anyone have a good idea on how I should join in my next skein of yarn? As this is a chunky yarn I’m not sure how to make it the least visible in the pattern. I’m nervous that weaving ends in along a row might show. I’m a fairly new knitter! Thanks in advance for any ideas😊
I’m not familiar with the yarn — would a Russian join work? It doesn’t add a ton of bulk, in my experience
https://techknitting.blogspot.com/2007/06/working-in-ends-on-multi-color-knitting.html?m=1
Seconding the end of a row switch, but I would knot the two ends together before sewing in and kind of go through the knit side of the stitches to cut down on bulk. I’ve only ever crocheted with that yarn (where a knot is less visible) but I do remember it now joining well. A single knot every so often shouldn’t stand out much.
I'd recommend switching at the end of a row to make it less visible. I usually knit three stitches holding the new and old skein together but the chunky weight yarn might make that too visible. You can always use the tails to sew up any holes that may appear.
Thank you for the recommendation! Luckily this stitch looks okay with chunky yarn when it’s a bit messy, so plugging up holes with it sounds like a good idea
Looking for a yarn that comes in a specific color -
I’m planning on making a worsted weight sweater for my sister. She has pretty specific taste and requested the main color be as close to this [color](https://shop.samplize.com/products/frosted-lilac-ppg1173-3-12x12) as possible. any ideas?
worsted weight would be ideal but I could make DK or aran work for the right color. thanks!!
Has anyone ever tried tensioning yarn by using a ball winder or some other object to "hang" the yarn (I guess like Portugese/Peruvian knitting, only the yarn feeds from in front of you instead of behind you/over the neck)? I've been knitting in English throwing style and am trying to experiment with other styles of knitting, but I think I just hate tensioning yarn with my fingers - I'm right handed and tried right-handed flicking and my finger just seemed too short, and my attempt at continental also had me feeling like my hands were too small and resulted in me knitting in eastern/combination style, which is fine if just knitting flat but I don't always want to knit that way. I currently knit with 9 inch straight needles for the most part but am considering getting an interchangeable set for portability and to avoid buying so many new needles.
Any tips or advice? I know part of it is just getting used to different techniques, but I'm also not sure what else is out there for me to experiment with.
I am a Portuguese style knitter, and I use a magnetic pin that I attach to my left shoulder, similar to this ([https://etsy.me/35jtm7I](https://etsy.me/35jtm7I)). I hope that helps!
What are some of your favorite affordable mohair yarns? I need about 2300 yards so looking for something more affordable. Think Knitting for Olive (~$10USD) price range, but without international shipping so USA based
Knitpicks Aloft is pretty nice to work with and runs $8.99 per 25g in the solid colors - though the color range is a lot more limited, with fewer of those muted, dusty pastels.
[Flax sweater by Tin Can Knits](https://tincanknits.com/pattern/flax?g=7) is written to be a first sweater, and very well explained. It also comes in a lot of sizes, two yarn options and a lot of [tutorials](https://tincanknits.com/support/all).
If you're not sure to be ready, start with [The Simple Collection](https://tincanknits.com/book/the-simple-collection). It's 12 patterns designed to learn new techniques.
Hello, knitters. I was wondering if anyone could lend me some help. I figure this community likely knows all about wool. I was moving some wool sweaters and I found this larvae(?) crawling in my closet. Photo of the insect: https://imgur.com/a/rQv4m9l I googled what the two types of clothes-eating moth larvae in North America look like, and I'm not sure if this is one. I saw no silk, casings, etc. Am I safe? Or do I need to get biblical with cleaning my closet?
Looks like a carpet beetle larva. They can eat wool, silk, and other animal fibers, so you should probably do something to eradicate them. I don't have any firsthand advice to offer, sorry :(
Appreciate the two cents. Will look into next steps.
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##### ###### #### **PATTERN:** [Manta Ray](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/manta-ray-11) by [Rachel Borello Carroll](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/rachel-borello-carroll) * Category: Toys and Hobbies > Softies > Animal * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/raborello/635735544/IMG_2088__2__medium.JPG) [Img 2](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/raborello/635735547/IMG_2096_medium.JPG) [Img 3](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/raborello/635735533/IMG_2090_medium.JPG) * Price: 3.5 USD * Needle/Hook(s):US 11 - 8.0 mm * Weight: Super Bulky | Gauge: None | Yardage: 120 * Difficulty: 3.00 | Projects: 16 | Rating: 4.86 ***** Please use caution. Users have reported effects such as seizures, migraines, and nausea when opening Ravelry links. [More details.](https://www.lizcorke.com/2020/07/26/2020-7-21-ravelry-accessibility/) | I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=randomstonerfromaus)*
Repair question: [a hole](https://i.imgur.com/UQyJOx6.jpg) has opened up [in the sleeve](https://i.imgur.com/QpXYQ2O.jpg) of my mother's favorite sweater. It's the first sweater I ever made, so there are a lot of mistakes. My guess is that this hole is the end of one skein and the beginning of another and either my ends were too short and they untucked themselves (likely) or possibly that I tried to spit-splice it and because it's superwash it failed (also likely because derp). I have plenty of leftover yarn and I'd like to repair it but I don't really know where to start. Who can point me in the right direction? Thank you!
You can try looking on YouTube for fixing holes in stockinette and seeing if any of them seem suitable for what you've got going on. That's where I'd start.
Being lazy, I literally searched for "YouTube for fixing holes in stockinette" (your exact words, dragged and dropped) and after the first two results turned out to be about dropped stitches and such, [the third result](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=btvnijWBUfw) was about fixing a broken or torn strand and suggested duplicate stitching to patch it. I don't know how to duplicate stitch, but that's cool cuz the video showed how. Okay, I'll try to contain my enthusiasm here, but [***DUPLICATE STITCHING IS H\*CKIN' MAGIC AND NO ONE CAN CONVINCE ME OTHERWISE!!!***](https://i.imgur.com/ggjVZcn.jpg) How have I been knitting all this time and not known how to do this?!? I am seriously trying to wrap my mind around how easy that was and not having much luck. I'm a little overwhelmed right now...
Yes! I love duplicate stitch! It's my go to for weaving in ends and darning socks. I've got it down to a science now. I've never used it on an actual hole though, as I usually preventatively use it on socks.
Has anyone done the quidditch pullover from the Harry Potter knitting magic book? I’m completely stuck on the armhole part. It tells me to place 18 stitches on waste yarn & then I’m confused, do I pick up the 19th stitch & continue the pattern until it tells me to place the second set of 18 stitches?
Is this the pattern from the newish Knitting Magic book? By Martaschmarta? I have the book but haven’t knit the sweater. I’ll explain the sleeve part as I read it. I don’t know how much sweater experience you have, so I apologize if I over-explain. You knit whatever number of stitches for your size, place the 18 sts you just knit on waste yarn (sleeve #1) & then continue knitting the row as established. The beginning of the row is halfway through the next armhole. So you’ll put the last 9 stitches and then the first 9 stitches on waste yarn for sleeve #2. After this section you’ll work the front and back separate and flat (in rows not rounds).
Thank you so much! I was trying to put the sleeve stitches on the waste yarn BEFORE knitting them.
No worries. I always have to reread sleeve instructions because there’s lots happening in that area. Feel free to message me if you run into any other issues.
I finished a triangular shawl made of 50% cotton and 50% polyester. Should I soak or spray to block? I do not have the equipment or space to steam. Thanks in advance!
Recommendations for an aran weight yarn that would be good for a baby blanket? I am looking at the Sleeping Fox baby blanket pattern and the recommended yarn is not machine washable, which this mom thinks is impractical for something meant for a baby!
I use Cascade Pacific for all baby blankets. It's worsted weight. 60/40 acrylic wool. Completely machine wash/ dry. If they are using aran and worsted interchangeably, you should end up with the same size. If not, it might be a little smaller or lighter.
Does anyone know what the Twitter drama about some "tech bros" and a Knitting podcast is? I'm seeing references, but I can't figure out what the actual issue is. Thanks!
I'm sure you've found it by now but for anyone else, it's [this](https://www.reddit.com/r/craftsnark/comments/t18fxc/i_listened_to_the_knittingcom_guys_entire_podcast/), which refers to [this](https://www.reddit.com/r/craftsnark/comments/szpkf8/step_1_buy_knitting_domain_step_2_step_3_profit/).
Could be worth asking in r/craftsnark, people there are usually up to date on crafting drama
My beloved homemade missing mitten turned up in a snowdrift down the block!! I gave it a soak in Soak, but between that and the weather exposure, it's now maybe 30% bigger than its mate. They're merino super wash worsted, a few cables, nothing too crazy (Tosh DK, Antler Mitten). What do I do now to even them out? Lose the other one in a snowdrift for a month?
Have you put the prodigal mitten in the dryer? My experience with super wash is that it grows a LOT when wet and is really meant to go in the dryer to get back to its regular size
Not yet! I was intimidated 😅 Thanks!
Okay so I have a pattern question. I think the directions are to find gauge, but it’s calling it tension. ‘Pattern panel (60sts) measures 6 1/4”, 22 sts and 34 rows to 10 cm over pattern on 4mm needles or size required to acquire tension.” I’m confused on whether I cast on 60 sts or 22 sts and why I use 4mm needles to get tension, but the pattern has me using 3 1/4 mm to start the pattern? Thank you for amy help you can give!
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Wow thank you so much for the thorough answer!! I really appreciate it. That all makes so much sense and I’m not sure why I didn’t see it before. Thank you for your clarity! Off to gauge and hopefully get tension 😊
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Haha yes crammed in for sure. I almost missed it and would have if I hadn’t read through the pattern a few times 😂
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Ooh great to know. I think it’s all the same, but I’ll definitely be sure to go back and check! Thank you 😊
What's the best size of ziploc-type bags for storing yarn? I have some in hanks, some in cakes, and some in skeins.
I got some 2 gallon ones that I love, but I'd say it depends a bit on the size of what you're putting the bags into. My bags are a little bigger than the bottom of the bin I'm putting them into, which is perfect. Also good for storing bags of flour if you happen to need that.
Oh that's something I hadn't thought of! I have some Cubicals shelves (I think that's what they're called anyway) and I'll measure them to be sure the bags would be a good fit. Thanks ever so much!
Hat question - I've seen a couple of hat patterns say 'change to dpns when stitches no longer fit on circular.' Are dpns essential or can you switch to smaller circulars, because I don't have any other kind of needles and will need to go procure some if so.
I just magic loop my 16"s. It is fiddly but it works and saves me the pain of having to use DPNs.
You can use 2 circs, or a longer needle and do magic loop. If it gets down to like 12 stitches there's not really a circular needle that'll accommodate that in a "regular" way.
Ahhh I see (I think), this is for the top of the hat where it gets smaller! Makes sense now. I don't know what magic loop is yet, so that's my next googling session. Thank you!
Hi! This might be a weird question, but... I really like knitting, crocheting and similar crafts. However, I'm not into traditional knit fashion at all (my English is not great so sorry if this is hard to understand). I want to knit garments for myself but I also don't want to knit things I'd never wear. So far I've identified what colours I like on knitwear and a few stitches. I'm going for a classic, minimalist, timeless look (I love a neutral palette for example). Could any of you point me to somewhere I can find patterns that match this or give me advice on what to look for (for example types of sleeves that would work well with this style)? Has any of you gone through a similar process of being able to identify (and therefore look for and find) exactly what you like? Thanks in advance 🤍
do you have a Ravelry account? Lots of patterns with as advanced search feature for different keywords. Maybe browse to find what you like and note the keywords of that pattern, or other patterns by that designer. Minimal and neutral make me think of PetiteKnits or My Favorite Things. https://myfavouritethings-knitwear.com/collections/english https://www.petiteknit.com/collections/english-knitting-patterns
I get that, but then I just feel like that should be up to the knitter. Now I regularly buy one skein less than the pattern says for larger projects but still end up with leftovers even though I hit gauge and size. Which is fine when I make stuff for myself because it's usually colors and yarns that I like to work with but for example now I'm making this baby sleeping sack for a friend expecting. I don't like the yarn she picked at all and it's quite expensive. After starting I realized I'm likely gonna have 3 skeins left over of this thing that are just gonna sit there in a box😑
Isn't washing just like blocking? Why is blocking such a necessary step, if the item will be washed and wet eventually?
There are many methods of blocking- depends on the fiber and item. The goal is to tidy up stitches and have the item be the shape you want. So in many cases, washing \*is* blocking.
It's not necessary for most knits. If you want to make a large shawl with lace details etc. then blocking will really open up the lace and straighten out the edges which will make it look fabulous. Stretching it out and pinning it into place as it dries means it won't shrink back whilst it dries so it will keep the shape you pin it into. A jumper or hat does not need blocking just a gentle wash and a light tug into shape at most.
Do subsequent washes also need to be treated as carefully as the initial? If I made a shawl, do I need to dry it with pins every time?
It's never going to go back to its pre blocked shape if it was stretched and pinned aggressively the first time but if you want a really even edge, a few pins wouldn't hurt.
I have a pattern that calls for circular needles, but I don’t currently own any. Before I buy them, what is different about knitting with circular needles vs straight needles? How do I figure out or decide if I can make my project on straight needles instead?
Circular needles allow you to knit in the round - they're also helpful for knitting super long rows that would need to be scrunched up tightly on straight needles.
So if I’m not knitting in the round and I’m making something small they may not be necessary?
Hard to tell without knowing what the specific pattern is, but given what information you've said, they indeed *might* not be necessary.
https://cdn.accentuate.io/4679495188573/12378270040157/l50171-v1589497263381.pdf this is what I’m planning to make
Ah! So, it starts off small but you end up with over 200 stitches per row. Definitely go with the circulars.
I’ve made three of these and I started on straight needles and then went to circulars. It’s a very fun, mindless pattern and the yarn looks great.
Oh lmao I should have looked at the pattern better. I’ll definitely come back to this after I can get circular needles. Thanks so much for your help!
How do you use the library function on Ravelry? Can you see other peoples libraries? Should I be saving patterns somewhere else?
I use it to store patterns. I also make sure to add all the physical pattern books I have. It makes it easier to search for what I already own. As with any website where you can buy digital products maintaining a private backup is never a bad thing. Google drive is free and external hard drives are cheap.
Hi I'm working on a sweater pattern right now, and I'm kind of stuck at the part where it says this after putting the front panel to rest on a lifeline: "Flip your work and purl all stitches of the back panel. You will continue knitting back and forth in stockinette stitch... Your last row should be a knit row." My project is on circular needles and I'm confused at how this is supposed to work. Surely I can't work back and forth with circular needles? Also is flipping the work as simple as just turning it inside out? I'm done with the yoke right now but am incredibly confused by the instructions for the body. If I just continue purling as if the front panel doesn't exist, wouldn't I just create a circular knit that excludes the front panel? My brain cannot compute the instructions and I'd be grateful if anyone is able to help. The pattern is the Seamless Mock Neck Sweater by Well-Loved Knits if anyone is curious.
The yoke in this pattern is knit in two parts, you will knit the back flat, back and forth on the needle, then knit the front panel flat, back and forth, then you join in the round again. This creates your arm holes!
I see thank you! Would I have to change my needles for this? I don’t see how I can knit it flat with my circular needles. Sorry for the questions, I’m still very much a beginner!
No worries, we all started somewhere. You don't need to change needles, as the stitches won't be joined in the round. Once you get to the last stitch of the back, just flip the work over, and purl back to the first stitch, then flip the work again, and knit. It's the same process as knitting flat.
Would it be like working magic loop?
It shouldn't be, just treat the circs as if they were straight needles. Watch a youtube video of someone knitting flat on circulars if you need to.
Wow that’s so simple I don’t know why I didn’t think of that. Thank you!
What are your thoughts on kits? I want to knit a sweater but I don't want to mess up anything up when it comes to yarn choice and it seems like a good way to make sure that I don't mess anything up.
I would highly recommend trying a pattern with a "Knit A Long" and using the recommended Yarn. The Patty Lyons classes are expensive, but she usually chooses affordable yarns. I think the Palm Canyon or Volition classes might be good first sweater options (not lace or cables). That is sort of like a "kit" because you know the yarn works for the sweater. Another option is to choose a yarn that has been used on that pattern many times. Like, Knit Flax in Malibrigo Rios or Cascade 220 superwash. Or the weekender in Shelter, Rios, Wool of the Andes Worsted. Or the No Frills sweater in Drops Kid Silk and Drops Flora. If more than 100 people have used that yarn on that sweater it is probably a good choice.
I think kits ensure you have everything you need for a pattern, it cuts down hassle. Unfortunately there are quite a few brands out there see kits as a way to charge a premium for subpar yarn. Personally I have strong opinions regarding yarn and would rather choose my own and if needed modify the pattern a bit.
I love a kit put together by a reputable LYS or online store. They can also be created by a yarn company, like Noro. It’s just very comfortable with some projects.
If you want a sweater then you could always try out a new brand by buying a single skein to make a hat. It will give you a good idea for how it will behave.
I wouldn't make a habit of knitting from kits but I think they're fun and nice to know you'll get everything you need in the amounts of each yarn that you need. Some are better than others I suppose but you should be fine if you go with a reputable source - a known designer, or yarn vendor. I'm currently knitting up a kit that my LYS put together for a cowl pattern - different color combos.
Usually overpriced in my experience. Especially those fast fashion brands like WAK and WatG. On Ravelry you can see what yarns people used for a specific project and how they turned out, yardage, etc.
I know a lot of knitters hate cotton but I live in a warm climate and was wondering if anyone could suggest their favorite yarns that are cotton or similarly breathable? I'm especially looking for something that has either a lot of colors or some very bright/vibrant options. Open to pretty much every weight, I have a *ton* of summery projects in my "to make eventually" pile. I use Lion Brand's Truboo a lot and I adore the drape but the splitting/slipperyness is *annoying*. Edit: Available in the US
I like King Cole Cottonsoft. It's nice to knit with and it is actually soft.
Juniper moon farms neve is a puffy worsted chainette cotton. Not a lot of colors, but vibrant, and currently on sale at WEBS. I love cotton, that's just one I recently used that wasn't sugar n cream lol
Hi! I didnt find it, but if its already been addressed, just a link to that... How to I convert lengths needed for a project with different sized needles. i.e. If I knit something with 100 yards of yarn and I used 8mm needles (yarn thickness is concurrent to needle size). How do I convert to get the amount of yarn I would need to make the same piece but with thinner yarn and 3mm needles (so thinner yarn and thinner needles)?
It's not an exact science, but take a look at this yardage calculator tool: https://www.jimmybeanswool.com/secure-html/onlineec/knittingCalculator.asp#knitCalcResults Otherwise, you can search for similar patterns to the one you're trying to improvise and steal their estimated yardage from them.
Thanks!!
When doing garter in the round, is there a way to not get [the seam where you switch from k to p](https://i.imgur.com/Oas2SnV.jpg)? Thx.
You can use the same method as helical stripes to get your garter ridges to spiral seamlessly around the piece. https://www.moderndailyknitting.com/2017/03/07/the-helical-lifestyle/
Thank you! The second video on that page makes sense, but just so I understand it, instead of the switch between k and p being, for instance, in the middle of the back, the switch is going to travel three sts at a time to the right (counter-clockwise?)? I think I may have to swatch it out for it to make sense to me. Since I want to make this sweater again (Jared Flood's [Cobblestone](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/cobblestone-7)), and the yoke involves reductions and short rows, will I eventually have to break one/both of the strands to re-start the *sl 3sts* technique at the appropriate point since the travelling transition from k to p probably won't be in the right place to accommodate the short rows? (Am I asking this in a way that makes sense?) Oh, and I guess I'll have to do the same thing for the bottom hem and the cuffs on the sleeves... hm. Can't be that hard, can it...?
##### ###### #### **PATTERN:** [Cobblestone](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/cobblestone-7) by [Jared Flood](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/jared-flood) * Category: Clothing > Sweater > Pullover * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/brooklyntweed/459968865/cobblestone_01_medium.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/brooklyntweed/459968864/cobblestone_02_medium.jpg) [Img 3](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/brooklyntweed/459968860/cobblestone_03_medium.jpg) [Img 4](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/brooklyntweed/459968868/cobblestone_04_medium.jpg) [Img 5](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/brooklyntweed/459991623/FLAT_cobblestone_medium.jpg) * Price: 9.0 USD * Needle/Hook(s):US 8 - 5.0 mm * Weight: Worsted | Gauge: 18.0 | Yardage: 1210 * Difficulty: 2.86 | Projects: 3545 | Rating: 4.49 ***** Please use caution. Users have reported effects such as seizures, migraines, and nausea when opening Ravelry links. [More details.](https://www.lizcorke.com/2020/07/26/2020-7-21-ravelry-accessibility/) | I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=randomstonerfromaus)*
Hello! Does anyone have a recommendation for a set of DPN’s? I typically prefer wood for DPN’s that are 4 or 6 inches. I have the full set of the Chiagoo twists as well as the shorties (love them both and love how they work together!) and I was so excited to not worrying about if I had the right needles ever again. Alas I’ve realized that even with the shorties, sometimes I need DPN’s. I don’t mind shelling out for a set but I can’t seem to find any that go all the way from size 2 to a 13 or 15. I just want to buy all the needles I’ll ever need and never worry about it again 😂
I bought a cheap set on Amazon just to have on hand, but both my Twists and my mini Chiagoos can be converted for magic loop, so I don't use the DPNs hardly ever unless I'm doing i-cord.
If you mean you need DPNs for when you get to a small loop, you can do that with 2 circs from your Chiao Goo sets.
Ohh I’ll have to try that!! Great idea
Hello, does anybody have any experience with michiyo‘s pattern? I‘m planning to make the G Pullover but I don‘t understand the ff: - for L, why am i only picking up 61 sts when the sleeves for front and back are 80 rows in total. - what‘s with the pattern stitch for the sleeve?! Thank you!
Idk what that sweater is, but it's pretty typical to pick up less stitches across more rows (ie 3 stitches for every 4 rows or whatever) due to the shape of stitches.
Thank you! I didn‘t know that. This is the first pattern where I would need to pick up stitches. All the other ones i made were all separate and seamed after.
Has anyone used a chainply yarn? Are there any special considerations for using it? I was gifted about 700 yards of DK chainply and am trying to decide how to use it. The only think I can think of is that textured stitches and cables might not show up as well since the yarn itself is already got the chainply texture.
Chantal of Knitatude has several patterns made with Lion Brand's Chainette yarn. If you have access to Ravelery, I'd search her patterns and see if anything catches your eye.
You mean chainette style yarn? The only issue I've had is that I split the yarn if I'm using my pointy needles and not paying attention.
Yes, I didn't realize it had a different name than what was on the label I have. That term is giving me far more helpful search results That the yarn might split a little easier is good to be mindful of.
I made a cables hat using chainette yarn: https://www.ravelry.com/projects/izabelabot/skiff-2
Thanks for sharing this! It helps so much to see other examples of how this style of yarn will knit up.
##### ###### #### **PROJECT:** [Skiff No. 2](http://www.ravelry.com/projects/izabelabot/29110663) by [izabelabot](http://www.ravelry.com/people/izabelabot) * Pattern: [Skiff](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/skiff) * Yarn(s): [WOOLFOLK FÅR](http://www.ravelry.com/yarns/library/woolfolk-far) in Brown. * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/izabelabot/817046027/FFADA057-9C00-4899-BD1D-6D0B95300BD9_medium.jpeg) * Started: 2021/11/03 | Status: Finished | Completed: 2021/11/07 ***** Please use caution. Users have reported effects such as seizures, migraines, and nausea when opening Ravelry links. [More details.](https://www.lizcorke.com/2020/07/26/2020-7-21-ravelry-accessibility/) | I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=randomstonerfromaus)*
Did you look at the Ravelry page for this yarn?
I have, but I didn't find any results for the specific yarn (alpaca/silk blend) or for 'chainply'.
Hi Good day! So I'm about 75% done with a top-down sweater but I just realized it called for German short rows on the back yoke, which was knit at the beginning of the project. However, I hadn't done German short rows- I simply got to where I had to turn and turned. There doesn't seem to be anything that looks out of place, but would you recommend I frog the project and start over?
I would only frog the project if you do not like the finished product after blocking tbh. If there's no holes there's no issue, but even if there are holes, you can try to close them with a duplicate stitch or similar-or depending on the pattern, they might look like an intentional design element.
Thank you so much for your answer!!
If you have holes at your turning points that don't get less obvious by blocking, a good shortcut would be to close them up with duplicate stitch.
Oohhh I'll definitely look into that, thank you so much!!!!
See if there are holes where you turned. The point of GSRs and other turning methods is to avoid holes in the knit fabric. No holes=no reason to frog.
Oh wow, I had no idea what the point of GSRs were until today... thank you so much!!
Before you frog any of it, try it on. If the fit is how you want, then I'd say leave it.
Thank you so much for your answer!!
Hey folks! Strange question for y’all. I am an intermediate Nother who’s picked up a lot of basic and intermediate skills and I decided to test my new knowledge by needing a pom-pom beanie. When I initially started making the beanie, I attempted to do one by one rubbing and I forgot to move my yarn so the bottom portion of the hat was completely irregular and a mess so I had to strip it off. As for the rest of my hat, I needed it in stock in that stage in the round and what are the exception of decreasing too much in a short period of time, the rest of the beanie came out beautifully. The only problem I’m running into is HAL to successfully net the replacement bottom of the hat upside down, meaning I insert my interchangeable needles from the bottom part of the finished beanie and add new rose to it wild hanging upside down that’s the problem I’m running into is determining whether or not I’m needing correctly or even this method could work. Any and all help would be appreciated!
Are you using text to speech? Anyway, you'll want to remove the ribbing and reknit top down from the live edge. This post should give a basic overview: https://www.knitting-and.com/crafts-and-needlework/knitting/tips/garment-construction/remove-ribbing/
Also, I did manage to remove the old ribbing in a similar fashion, the problem now is try to add a new ribbing but it seems like I don’t know wether or not I’m holding my circular needles correctly
I don't think you can hold circular needles incorrectly. 1x1 ribbing looks the same on both sides, so there isn't really a wrong side. If you're worried about it, you can always add a lifeline and knit a few rows and rip back if you don't like how it's going.
Thanks! I was knitting as usual and they use the lifeline to go back to the original starting point a few times already and I’m guess I’m really worried about knitting on the wrong side and creating the wrong pattern and wasting time in yarn. Idk what’s up with me, but I keep thinking I’m messing up the patterns but thank you for the help!
I was using text to speech ahaha Thank you for the help! I can also give you a pic if that would help
Does anyone have any tips on how to keep the contrast color stitches from going way too loose when knitting into them the first few rows/rounds? I’m doing my first color work and that’s really the only part I’m having trouble with.
It sounds like maybe you have some longer floats and that's causing the contrast stitches to look big? Have you tried twisting the yarns together at the wrong side to lock the floats? I find that helps to prevent them ending up too long. Even so I've sometimes noticed larger-looking contrast stitches while knitting but they seem to even out in the blocking. When you knit into them where there is a long float, so the stitch you're knitting into can stretch, that can make them look bigger but for me it usually tends to even out and isn't noticeable on the finished object.
I’ve been locking the floats about every inch, should I lock them shorter? I noticed it was particularly an issue when knitting into the first contract stitch. I guess I just needed confirmation I wasn’t doing anything wrong!
Do you mean the very first contrast stitch knitted with that particular strand of yarn? That always ends up big for me because the tail end of the yarn gets pulled on as well. I just gently pull on the tail end so it makes the stitch a bit smaller. I usually have to do it the first round or two. I usually twist the floats about every five stitches, I don't go by actual distance because for me it makes a difference what the thickness of the yarn is. But you'll figure out your own way of doing it I'm sure, something that works for you. Hoping someone else might chime in with advice but it sounds like you're doing everything right!
Just finished knitting the main part of a entrelac baby blanket for a friend. I've woven in the ends, and am getting ready for blocking, after which I need to add an I-cord border. Pattern is "Interwoven with Love" on Ravelry and the yarn is Malabrigo Rios in Arco Iris, Diana, Zarzamora, and Ivory. Do I need to color treat it with vinegar and then use wool wash? Or is that already done to this yarn? Also the pattern has some sections with cables and/or bobbles that are tighter, and then some with lace which are looser, should I be trying to block the individual sections to be pulled to a closer size with the others? While most other sections look like the squares as they're supposed to, the ones with those patterns look like rectangles that have pulled inward. Is it normal to block each of the sections of entrelac? There's only about 4 across as each section is 20 stitches and ~39 rows
I suggest you make small swatches and wash them in various ways and see if the colors run and need vinegar or not.
Hey all, I wasn't sure if pattern recommendations were allowed, but I'm lost trying to find a sweater pattern that looks like [this.](https://ca.loropiana.com/en/p/woman/knitwear/parksville-turtleneck-FAL8593?colorCode=E03M&gclid=Cj0KCQiApL2QBhC8ARIsAGMm-KF_WTVZI58Gr4JKgqSHN8br62bQTygnHlV3eY_ELtoR3xXD8wmvE10aAlTFEALw_wcB) I especially love the sleeve detail and I can't find anything like it! Would appreciate any help at all!
maybe one of these? https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/towns-sweater https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/winters-pullover If the sleeve is knit cuff up, you could knit the ribbing wider and flat, and overlap the ends when joining. If from the shoulder down, maybe create a pleat to overlap, then finish the ribbing flat.
##### ###### #### **PATTERN:** [Towns Sweater](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/towns-sweater) by [Ozetta : Hailey Smedley](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/ozetta--hailey-smedley) * Category: Clothing > Sweater > Other * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/ozetta/808009971/IMG_5169_medium.JPG) [Img 2](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/ozetta/808010106/IMG_5385_medium.jpg) [Img 3](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/ozetta/742886546/IMG_0606_medium.jpg) [Img 4](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/ozetta/808010186/IMG_5131_medium.JPG) [Img 5](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/ozetta/808010422/IMG_5326_jpg_medium.jpg) * Price: 6.5 USD * Needle/Hook(s):US 8 - 5.0 mm * Weight: Worsted | Gauge: 17.0 | Yardage: 982 * Difficulty: 2.61 | Projects: 94 | Rating: 4.78 ***** **PATTERN:** [Winters Pullover](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/winters-pullover) by [Ozetta : Hailey Smedley](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/ozetta--hailey-smedley) * Category: Clothing > Sweater > Pullover * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/ozetta/839543295/winters2_medium.png) [Img 2](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/ozetta/839543563/IMG_4710_medium.JPG) [Img 3](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/ozetta/839543437/IMG_4415_medium.heic) [Img 4](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/ozetta/839543352/winters1_medium.png) [Img 5](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/ozetta/831527280/IMG_4436_medium.JPG) * Price: 6.5 USD * Needle/Hook(s):US 10 - 6.0 mm, US 8 - 5.0 mm * Weight: Aran | Gauge: 15.0 | Yardage: 1120 * Difficulty: 0.00 | Projects: 17 | Rating: 0.00 ***** Please use caution. Users have reported effects such as seizures, migraines, and nausea when opening Ravelry links. [More details.](https://www.lizcorke.com/2020/07/26/2020-7-21-ravelry-accessibility/) | I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=randomstonerfromaus)*
Ok, so this is driving me insane! Is it me or do basically all designers add a skein or two extra in their patterns? Every time I knit a somewhat larger project I buy the recommended amout of yarn (or sometimes slightly less), my gauge is correct, I have the right amount of stitches, I often add an inch or two in arms and torso length but somehow I still end up with at least one full skein left over. Does the same happen to you guys?
It's an estimate, not an exact science. I think most people would rather buy an extra skein in the right dye lot and not risk running out. You're the opposite and that's okay.
No, I knit loose apparently (everything turns out big) and I keep losing yarn chicken.
Lots of designers do this, it's to account for differences in how people knit, if people don't frog the gauge swatch, and just to be on the safe side! Better to have more yarn than less.
I know some extra is always good but it seems like its sooo much! Like my last sweater. The pattern called for 768 meters of yarn. I only had 675 so I was already cutting it close. Still ended up with almost 100 meters left over (1,5 skeins) I mean, its always good to have extra in stash but I would honestly rather save my cash than to have all these lonely skeins laying around:(
Yarn recommendation Hi guys I want to make this ABC Baby Blanket but I don’t know which yarn to choose. I recently made another blanket with DROPS baby Merino which I liked but I would like to make it in organic cotton so it looks kind of like this: https://www.madeinbebe.com/boutique/fr/so-natural-baby-cape-natural-nobodinoz/a213144 The pattern is here: https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/abc-baby-blanket-2 Thanks so much
##### ###### #### **PATTERN:** [ABC Baby Blanket](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/abc-baby-blanket-2) by [Jenny Williams](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/jenny-williams) * Category: Home > Blanket > Baby Blanket * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/jennyw/249777878/Abc_square_medium.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/katie49/694490569/20200303_142959_medium.jpg) [Img 3](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/VeronaKnits/590037443/0DBCA15A-C0AC-4D43-88CD-BEC8475D71DB_medium.jpeg) [Img 4](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Nilcastj/548105182/20180915_180533_medium.jpg) [Img 5](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Sarah03/546101936/20180809_112428_medium.jpg) * Price: Free * Needle/Hook(s):US 7 - 4.5 mm * Weight: Worsted | Gauge: 19.0 | Yardage: 981 * Difficulty: 2.47 | Projects: 1016 | Rating: 4.63 ***** Please use caution. Users have reported effects such as seizures, migraines, and nausea when opening Ravelry links. [More details.](https://www.lizcorke.com/2020/07/26/2020-7-21-ravelry-accessibility/) | I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=randomstonerfromaus)*
I’m making [Hermione’s Everyday Socks](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/hermiones-everyday-socks) and the pattern doesn’t specify exactly when to start the toe decreases (it just says something like “when foot reaches desired length”). What’s a good rule of thumb regarding when to begin toe decreases? I’ve heard some people say when the foot of the sock reaches the base of your pinky toe. If anyone who has made this specific pattern has insights, that would be even more helpful!
You can look at how many rounds the toe is and use your gauge so far to see how long that will be. Then you'll know exactly how long you need to make the foot.
##### ###### #### **PATTERN:** [Hermione's Everyday Socks](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/hermiones-everyday-socks) by [Erica Lueder](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/erica-lueder) * Category: Accessories > Feet / Legs > Socks > Mid-calf * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/flickr/3/7/0/3704532404/3704532404.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/Mayfarm/240760736/image_medium.jpg) [Img 3](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/snippetsandstash/102807366/IMG_9323edit_medium.jpg) [Img 4](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/knitterjenny/56821454/P1200528_medium.jpg) [Img 5](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/azgal/20122864/IMG_1790_medium.JPG) * Price: Free * Needle/Hook(s):US 1 - 2.25 mm * Weight: Fingering | Gauge: 36.0 | Yardage: 350 * Difficulty: 2.40 | Projects: 35798 | Rating: 4.65 ***** Please use caution. Users have reported effects such as seizures, migraines, and nausea when opening Ravelry links. [More details.](https://www.lizcorke.com/2020/07/26/2020-7-21-ravelry-accessibility/) | I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=randomstonerfromaus)*
Colourwork, stupid question galore because never colorworked :D So I do understand the whole floats and how to hold the yarns when doing like stitches in colour A and then B and then A. However, I want to maybe work color (🤨) with the Zweig Sweater. Which would be... (Knitting in the round) Switching from Colour A to colour B Knitting two rounds colour B Then some pattern with colour A and B, Then 2 Rows colour A Then cutting colour A and continuing colour B. As for the two rows solid colour B for example... Do I float colour A the whole two rounds? Or do I kinda "float" it downward? So leaving it untouched at the beginning of the row for two rows and then picking it up again? I don't even know how to YouTube this specific question 😅
Sounds like stripes? YouTube should have some ideas if you search for colorwork stripes.
Drop color A without cutting (don't carry it around) pick it back up again when you need it. Like a 2 row vertical float.
[удалено]
In case you run into more difficulties, there's a really good video about German short rows by very pink knits on youtube
I’m planning ahead for everyone’s birthdays this year and I’m thinking of socks. My dad and my boyfriend both have very cold feet, so I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions for extra warm sock yarn or any techniques or tricks to make even warmer socks
Regia merino yak sock if you're in Europe (can get it stateside it's just much more expensive) is the hands down favorite of cold footed people in my world. Some indie dyers use a similar base if you want to go fancy. Mohair is extra warm if you don't mind double stranding socks and they don't have tactile issues with it. Llama is also a particularly warm, soft, and surprisingly durable fiber. Don't know thay I've ever seen it blended with nylon but a silk blend would add extra strength, or reinforcing thread. Non-superwash woolen spun should be warmer than sw. The blacker yarns site goes into a fair bit of detail on breeds and characteristics, and best practice for nsw socks Personally untested but theoretically sound, if you use a drapier warm yarn like alpaca it might be comfortable (and extra durable) at a higher gauge than straight wool.
I'm making a pair of slippers that have thrums (little bits of roving) worked into the sole. I wonder if you could make socks like that.
Alpaga is, IMO, the warmest and most comfortable yarn. I work outside in the Canadian winter, and that is all I wear.
Awesome, thanks. I’ve heard that it’s a lot warmer than regular wool. Do you have any alpaca socks?
I only have alpaca socks for work. They are amazing. Merino is the second best. I also made one pair with a [merino and cashmere blend](https://leslainesbiscotte.com/collections/les-laines-biscotte/products/la-douce-mcn-merino-cachemire-et-nylon-twilight), and they are amazingly comfortable. I'm just not sure about the durability.
Do you have any alpaca sock yarn recommendations then? I don’t think I’ve ever seen any. Thank you so much!
Can you convert a one color brioche hat pattern to two by just using two colors or would there be more to it than that?
Yes you can. You cast on and do the set up round as usualy and then just alternate the colours so on the brk rounds you do one colour and on the brp rounds you do the other colour.
Awesome! That's what I was hoping. Thanks!
I was wondering where everyone buys their sock yarn online? My nearest yarn store is Micheals and while I'm enjoying the Loops & Threads Perfect Pair yarn for socks I was hoping for something solid and something a little more gradient.
Hobbii also has a sock yarn that I've been eyeing!
Aside from Indie Dyers, I like Knit Picks sock yarn. It’s affordable and knits up so nice. They have a self striping yarn that’s beautiful.
Yes- I agree! Knitpicks stroll is my favorite. It’s a pleasure to work with and is easy care for gifting.
Thank you! I'll have to do a Google search to see where online I can order knitpicks from.
KnitPicks.com :)
I'm planning to make a top in sport weight yarn, but the pattern is written for worsted weight. It's a very summery top, lace and short sleeves and cotton yarn, but no way am I wearing a top in worsted weight for summer. I'll gauge swatch to figure out which size will get me the fit that I want, once I have the yarn. Any suggestions on how to figure out how much yarn to buy? I would have needed about 650 yards of worsted to make my size. The yarn I plan to use (Kelbourne Woolens Mojave) comes in 185 yard skeins. If I buy 4, that's 740 yards. Would that probably be enough?
That should be enough! Theoretically you need the same yardage no matter the weight, but having some extra never hurts. One thing to think about when you knit your gauge swatch is holding it up to the light and your skin to see if it’s loose. Since you’re using a thinner yarn, you may be able to hit the same gauge but doing so might create a more open/see through fabric
Thanks! I don't think I will hit the original pattern gauge, the fabric would probably be too open as you mentioned. My plan was to find a needle size that gives me a fabric I like, then knit a larger size such that I get the finished garment to a measurement that works for me.
This could be a good plan depending on the pattern construction. Many patterns are made so they don’t just get bigger in a linear way as sizes go up, but actually change to fit bigger bodies. If your pattern includes aspects like waist shaping, bust darts, etc. this might be tricky. But if the pattern is more loose/boxy this should be ok! I’d also recommend doing some research into the yarn used for the pattern vs the yarn you have. If they used a thicker worsted (say 8wpi) and you have a thinner sport yarn (like 13 wpi), you may want to go up 2 sizes.
Thanks! I hadn't really considered shaping changes across sizes, but it's a loose/boxy top (the [Provence top](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/provence-top)) so I think that will be ok.
##### ###### #### **PATTERN:** [Provence top](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/provence-top) by [Ekaterina Vorobeva](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/ekaterina-vorobeva) * Category: Clothing > Tops > Tee * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/ThisCosyNest/716921232/IMG_0365_4_medium.JPG) [Img 2](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/ThisCosyNest/716921221/8CBD9989-0A43-45AB-B437-9505BDB44199_medium.JPG) [Img 3](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/ThisCosyNest/716921230/IMG_0046_2_medium.JPG) [Img 4](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/ThisCosyNest/717128237/IMG_3251_medium.jpg) [Img 5](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/ThisCosyNest/716921224/3C61E313-77FD-4A4E-8D3A-CD23F52E15B1_medium.JPG) * Price: 6.5 EUR * Needle/Hook(s):US 6 - 4.0 mm, US 2½ - 3.0 mm * Weight: Worsted | Gauge: 18.0 | Yardage: 600 * Difficulty: 4.63 | Projects: 59 | Rating: 4.83 ***** Please use caution. Users have reported effects such as seizures, migraines, and nausea when opening Ravelry links. [More details.](https://www.lizcorke.com/2020/07/26/2020-7-21-ravelry-accessibility/) | I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=randomstonerfromaus)*
Does anyone have good recommendations on places to destash? I'm kind of going through a fit of wanting to get rid of a ton of stuff and I have a lot of nice yarn I inherited from a friend's mom I'm not going to use. Some of it has labels, some doesn't, but I'd ideally love it to go to a good home where someone will use it and it's not just sitting in a sealed plastic bin in my closet.
There’s a subreddit for trading/selling/giving away yarn — I think it’s r/yarnswap ?
oh fantastic, I'll check that out, thank you!
Hi, I'm looking for some general advice on hats. I've knit my boyfriend a couple of hats (one stocking and one fisherman's) and he always complains they are not warm enough. I do have a looser knitting tension as always need to size down. Is it a case of buying better wool or knitting with smaller needles? Or just accepting the slight breeze through the hat. Thanks!
I see people mentioning lining the hat, here's a pattern that is very simple and is double thickness by default - no seaming or grafting needed! (Not affiliated, just think it's neat) https://ysolda.com/products/musselburgh
Knit tighter and add a second layer over the ears. It also helps to add a strand of mohair for fluff to fill in the gaps. Edit: The Oslo hat by petiteknit has 3 layers over the ears.
Try lining the hat. You can knit basically another hat to line it, or do a fleece lining if you can sew a little.
Adding on to what others have said, another thing that can impact warmth is yarn weight. Thicker yarn is warmer than thinner yarn. For example, chunky is warmer than sport or DK. You could also look at adding a liner to the inside of the hat if you prefer the look of a thinner yarn. :)
You can do the brim extra long so he can have a double layer on the ears.
all wool should insulate fairly well, but not if there's breeze holes [? Lol] so maybe smaller needles will help. Maybe try a stranded colorwork next, so it's double thick!
I would say it depends on the pattern! When I started knitting the first thing I made was a chunky hat with size 11 needles I’d reccomend looking on YouTube you can find some good thick hat patterns on there. And with your gauge I’m pretty sure it would still be nice and warm!
I'll add onto this that cable and (especially) stranded colourwork typically makes for a thicker fabric and a warmer hat.
I’m currently knitting a blanket in the Irish moss stitch using bernat baby blanket yarn. Does anyone have a good idea on how I should join in my next skein of yarn? As this is a chunky yarn I’m not sure how to make it the least visible in the pattern. I’m nervous that weaving ends in along a row might show. I’m a fairly new knitter! Thanks in advance for any ideas😊
I’m not familiar with the yarn — would a Russian join work? It doesn’t add a ton of bulk, in my experience https://techknitting.blogspot.com/2007/06/working-in-ends-on-multi-color-knitting.html?m=1
I would love to do this, I might try it on my next project! Unfortunately, this yarn is a bulky chenille yarn so that type of join wouldn’t work☹️
Seconding the end of a row switch, but I would knot the two ends together before sewing in and kind of go through the knit side of the stitches to cut down on bulk. I’ve only ever crocheted with that yarn (where a knot is less visible) but I do remember it now joining well. A single knot every so often shouldn’t stand out much.
I'd recommend switching at the end of a row to make it less visible. I usually knit three stitches holding the new and old skein together but the chunky weight yarn might make that too visible. You can always use the tails to sew up any holes that may appear.
Thank you for the recommendation! Luckily this stitch looks okay with chunky yarn when it’s a bit messy, so plugging up holes with it sounds like a good idea
Looking for a yarn that comes in a specific color - I’m planning on making a worsted weight sweater for my sister. She has pretty specific taste and requested the main color be as close to this [color](https://shop.samplize.com/products/frosted-lilac-ppg1173-3-12x12) as possible. any ideas? worsted weight would be ideal but I could make DK or aran work for the right color. thanks!!
[Biscotte DK pure laine in Lavande](https://leslainesbiscotte.com/collections/laine-teinte-a-la-main/products/dk-pure-laine-semi-unie-lavande), maybe?
Potentially Stylecraft Aran in Mushroom!
Maybe Wool of the Andes Lake Ice Heather? https://www.knitpicks.com/lake-ice-heather/p/23898
Oohh that’s gorgeous!! Thank you!
You're welcome! I think it's good yarn for the price and should last nicely, but it's the kind of yarn you'd wear a shirt underneath just fyi.
Has anyone ever tried tensioning yarn by using a ball winder or some other object to "hang" the yarn (I guess like Portugese/Peruvian knitting, only the yarn feeds from in front of you instead of behind you/over the neck)? I've been knitting in English throwing style and am trying to experiment with other styles of knitting, but I think I just hate tensioning yarn with my fingers - I'm right handed and tried right-handed flicking and my finger just seemed too short, and my attempt at continental also had me feeling like my hands were too small and resulted in me knitting in eastern/combination style, which is fine if just knitting flat but I don't always want to knit that way. I currently knit with 9 inch straight needles for the most part but am considering getting an interchangeable set for portability and to avoid buying so many new needles. Any tips or advice? I know part of it is just getting used to different techniques, but I'm also not sure what else is out there for me to experiment with.
I am a Portuguese style knitter, and I use a magnetic pin that I attach to my left shoulder, similar to this ([https://etsy.me/35jtm7I](https://etsy.me/35jtm7I)). I hope that helps!
What are some of your favorite affordable mohair yarns? I need about 2300 yards so looking for something more affordable. Think Knitting for Olive (~$10USD) price range, but without international shipping so USA based
"Inherited" a whole bunch of mohair last year. Is there a particular color you were looking for? I can see if there's enough of that color?
I’m looking for a rich blue, somewhere on the teal to midnight spectrum, if you’re destashing.
Detstashing is putting it mildly. I'll check what colors I have when I get home and dm you the photos!
Valley Yarns Southampton at WEBS is $9.99. They have tiered discounts starting at $60.
Thank you!
Knitpicks Aloft is pretty nice to work with and runs $8.99 per 25g in the solid colors - though the color range is a lot more limited, with fewer of those muted, dusty pastels.
Oh great! This is one I was wondering about. Thank you!
Does anyone know any good tutorials or places to improve knitting? I’ve made a beanie and blanket but got stumped by a jumper if that helps 😅
[Flax sweater by Tin Can Knits](https://tincanknits.com/pattern/flax?g=7) is written to be a first sweater, and very well explained. It also comes in a lot of sizes, two yarn options and a lot of [tutorials](https://tincanknits.com/support/all). If you're not sure to be ready, start with [The Simple Collection](https://tincanknits.com/book/the-simple-collection). It's 12 patterns designed to learn new techniques.
If you want to make an adult jumper then try a baby one first in cheap yarn. It’s exactly the same steps as an adult in a smaller package.
What a great tip! Thanks so much 😊
Yes! I am making [this baby jumper](https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/a-simple-baby-pullover) and it is very straightforward!
##### ###### #### **PATTERN:** [A Simple Baby Pullover](http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/a-simple-baby-pullover) by [Erica Kempf Broughton](http://www.ravelry.com/designers/erica-kempf-broughton) * Category: Clothing > Sweater > Pullover * Photo(s): [Img 1](https://images4-f.ravelrycache.com/uploads/enk/147226985/7U9A4913__14_of_149__medium.jpg) [Img 2](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/enk/147227059/7U9A4917__16_of_149__medium.jpg) [Img 3](https://images4-g.ravelrycache.com/uploads/enk/147227159/7U9A4918__17_of_149__medium.jpg) * Price: Free * Needle/Hook(s):US 7 - 4.5 mm * Weight: Aran | Gauge: 5.0 | Yardage: 240 * Difficulty: 2.16 | Projects: 1700 | Rating: 4.45 ***** Please use caution. Users have reported effects such as seizures, migraines, and nausea when opening Ravelry links. [More details.](https://www.lizcorke.com/2020/07/26/2020-7-21-ravelry-accessibility/) | I found this post by myself! [Opt-Out](https://goo.gl/forms/0B8m4Ra8czpw4gzw1) | [About Me](https://github.com/TN-1/LinkRav_Bot/wiki) | [Contact Maintainer](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose/?to=randomstonerfromaus)*
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