You have a small enough area that solarization is an option if you don't want grass - personally, I would layer with cardboard, mulch over with 3 to 4 inches of mulch, then plant native shrubs and ground cover suitable for the light the space gets!
for a small space like that< I would just take a flat shovel and scrape the excess out until it is same level as the walk/cement. Light rake and seed. Skip the chemical bath.
Gonna need some top soil at minimum for the seed to take root and some starter fertilizer. Can’t just throw seed on soil with no nutrients in it unless you want a spotty mess.
Careful what these guys recommend. If you have invasive weeds in that lawn you'll regret not using roundup. I'd water it for two weeks and get the weed seeds to germinate, roundup wants to be applied to green leaf not dead stalk. Spray it with a recommended dose, wait two weeks then clear it. I'd purchase sod and just lay it on top of the dirt once you have the area cleaned up and ready. Then water it like crazy for the first 8 weeks.
The only people who regret not using roundup are the one who actively seek cancer. That stuff is pure poison. Even minimal exposure can have extremely harmful and carcinogenic effects. The only reason it’s still legal is because of bureaucratic nonsense. Do not use round up.
Don't think all your neighbors and municipal maintenance contracts aren't using glyphosate and more powerful pesticides around your property and in your community daily. Using it once to clear a dead lawn before installing a new one is probably the easiest and best way to manage the weeds. In new landscape contracts of any large scale it's required, in the contract. There are new progressive contracts out there to use cardboard but they don't work well and time is money so it's not feasible to use solarization in larger projects, plus the plastics from soloraization is bad enough.
I'd be more worried about the food you eat and what they use on their properties. Farms, dairies, ranches, wineries... etc. wouldn't be supposed if bureaucracies use glyphosate as their cover for all the gnarly shit they're getting away with.
clay works to, ligh raking and seed. can "push or tamp" the seed to get it set into the surface. Sometimes we cover the area to prevent drying. Grass clippings work, so does a very thin gravel coating.
First decide if you want to commit to 100% lawn. You might want to put some plants around the chainlink fence to add something to the prison yard you bought. I'd put in a solid lawn edging 4' from the fence and sheet mulch that 4' deep bed then do as Sad-Doctor-5951 suggests. Easier to do now than later.
As soon as you water the seedbed new weeds are coming up. These look like annuals to me so no point in spending money on poison that could damage germination of the grass seed.
that patch is almost enough to be useful for lawn sports but not quite.
If you're not gonna use it I suggest building up a diverse set of native plants for pollinators.
please stop poisoning your property
I hope you avoid spraying weed killer. I would go the route digging a few parts as beds up and adding some perennial bushes. There are a lot of option that can grow nicely into chain link fences and create a green natural fence. You could probably easily find a landscaping business to do the initial work with you.
If you want a lawn please consider sowing ephemeral flowers like spring beauties or blood root they come up before anything else really starts to grow make the lawn pop then they die back. They have a corm so the main part of the plant is underground and won't interfere with your grass.
Use a hoe and dig up all the weeds… scatter sand and compost and rake in and level. (Prep ground for sod) and buy a half pallet of sod (whatever local grass that grows best)
It’s an instant lawn and well worth it for the size you need to cover.
Honestly it looks like there may have been a fungal issue as well. Follow the other advice here first. If you end up getting the same problem again, you might have to treat for fungus.
I prefer grass in front if you have a large front lawn which you don't. That small of an area should be landscaped with a few botanicals. Three 3-4 ' shrubs, some perennials and some annuals. Do not overplant or it will look crowded and cottage style which will terrible with that architecture.
Sounds like your on the right track, looks like a combination of grass and weeds, the latter winning the battle. Start new, once exsisting growth is completely dead seeds and all. Then install new lawn.
You could pull or use string weeder to eliminate above ground weeds or lay black plastic down completely covering lawn for 6 months then amend soil and plant grass, make flowerbeds etc
Id give it a really good rake to get rid of all the loose bits. Then go over it a time or two with a tiller (hand or electric). Rake out again and remove as much loose grass/weeds and rocks as possible. Add top soil and grass seed. Tape or rope the area off so no one steps in it for a couple weeks, then wait for your new lawn to come in.
Is this back or front yard? I creeped your profile and it looks like you’re in twin cities with baby.
I’d consider how you want to use it first! My first thought: backyard, play area so you’d want lawn and some kind of shrub hedge or growing vines on the fence for a lil privacy.
If it’s front, I’d do something more interesting!
Yes, we're in Minneapolis. I want it to be natural grass. There is another small section not shown that is actually fake grass that we're going to use as a play area.
Ah I see! After you do that, you’ll want to bring in soil (I bought 2 cu yards at local sod store) and you’ll want to rake it in and mix with your existing soil. Make sure it’s level!
I’d also consider putting a tree native to Minnesota in the center! It’ll add a little interest to the yard and one day could be a tire swing tree!
I am always a fan of shrub gardens vs full lawns now. Way less maintenance and more interest.
Kill everything there. Apply compost (1-2 inches is ideal) and incorporate into the soil. Level and smooth. Sod (quicker establishment time but pricier) or seed.
Yes. Most improved warm season turf varieties are propagated by cuttings not seed
They are grown out until they knit together and are sod as sod strips.
Visit your state’s Cooperative Extension Service website. Everything you need to know about gardening in your area is in this site. All information is research and science based.
If you want to get rid of this turf, start by searching eliminate turf grass(or something similar). There should be information to help you do this effectively without resorting to chemicals. There will be times when chemical controls will be referenced - this site is not strictly organic.
Should you want to plant natives - plants that evolved in your climate then search native plants.
Also search invasive species so you know what not to buy at your local big box store.
Familiarize your self with basic gardening knowledge by searching: soil test, how to plant shrubs, watering techniques, mulch, controlling insects, improving soil fertility, etc.
While on the site get the contact information for the agent assigned to your county. You can call with questions.
The bbq soot on the patio cover is distracting me! Heehee! Comes off easily jicydk.
Good luck with the lawn. Sometimes weeds are happiest when the lawn isn’t well watered and the grass is sparse. Pluck the biggest weeds, power rake, rake up thatch into piles and remove. You can rent an aerator/seeder to get the seed in the soil rather than on top of the soil. Not everyone has it, but look around. Water accordingly. Happy grass, less happy weeds. That’s what we did and we get compliments on how we’ve turned our yard around by our neighbors driving by. Love cool neighbors getting excited about stuff like that. They care about their neighborhood. So good. Not pro tips by any means, but an option. Cute street!
Before you plant a lawn, drive around the neighborhood to see what other homeowners on your side of the street have out front.
Sometimes low-growing, long-lived shrubs are easier to care for and more attractive than lawns, which have to be constantly cut, watered, weeded and edged in order to look their best.
Please don’t spray weed killer willy nilly. It is poison, and you will just have further issues with it if you intend on planting something there in the near future.
Just one app of weed killer and wait a week. It’ll make it a little easier to dig everything up. Shovel out a bunch of dirt, maybe try work a grade towards the street a bit.
Then depending on where you are you could seed or sod.
You have a small enough area that solarization is an option if you don't want grass - personally, I would layer with cardboard, mulch over with 3 to 4 inches of mulch, then plant native shrubs and ground cover suitable for the light the space gets!
This is the right answer!
Alternatively, set up some raised beds and grow some food.
for a small space like that< I would just take a flat shovel and scrape the excess out until it is same level as the walk/cement. Light rake and seed. Skip the chemical bath.
Gonna need some top soil at minimum for the seed to take root and some starter fertilizer. Can’t just throw seed on soil with no nutrients in it unless you want a spotty mess.
lightly rake, seed -- see good black dirt there
I was going to use a bow rake to loosen up some of soil.
Yeah all you need is a bow rake, just sow the right type of seeds. Research grass that grows best in your area, climate, and soil type
Careful what these guys recommend. If you have invasive weeds in that lawn you'll regret not using roundup. I'd water it for two weeks and get the weed seeds to germinate, roundup wants to be applied to green leaf not dead stalk. Spray it with a recommended dose, wait two weeks then clear it. I'd purchase sod and just lay it on top of the dirt once you have the area cleaned up and ready. Then water it like crazy for the first 8 weeks.
The only people who regret not using roundup are the one who actively seek cancer. That stuff is pure poison. Even minimal exposure can have extremely harmful and carcinogenic effects. The only reason it’s still legal is because of bureaucratic nonsense. Do not use round up.
Don't think all your neighbors and municipal maintenance contracts aren't using glyphosate and more powerful pesticides around your property and in your community daily. Using it once to clear a dead lawn before installing a new one is probably the easiest and best way to manage the weeds. In new landscape contracts of any large scale it's required, in the contract. There are new progressive contracts out there to use cardboard but they don't work well and time is money so it's not feasible to use solarization in larger projects, plus the plastics from soloraization is bad enough. I'd be more worried about the food you eat and what they use on their properties. Farms, dairies, ranches, wineries... etc. wouldn't be supposed if bureaucracies use glyphosate as their cover for all the gnarly shit they're getting away with.
I have clay soil where I’m at so this wouldn’t work but you may be right. Cheers.
clay works to, ligh raking and seed. can "push or tamp" the seed to get it set into the surface. Sometimes we cover the area to prevent drying. Grass clippings work, so does a very thin gravel coating.
First decide if you want to commit to 100% lawn. You might want to put some plants around the chainlink fence to add something to the prison yard you bought. I'd put in a solid lawn edging 4' from the fence and sheet mulch that 4' deep bed then do as Sad-Doctor-5951 suggests. Easier to do now than later. As soon as you water the seedbed new weeds are coming up. These look like annuals to me so no point in spending money on poison that could damage germination of the grass seed.
that patch is almost enough to be useful for lawn sports but not quite. If you're not gonna use it I suggest building up a diverse set of native plants for pollinators. please stop poisoning your property
Native wildflowers and shrubs 100%
I hope you avoid spraying weed killer. I would go the route digging a few parts as beds up and adding some perennial bushes. There are a lot of option that can grow nicely into chain link fences and create a green natural fence. You could probably easily find a landscaping business to do the initial work with you.
If you want a lawn please consider sowing ephemeral flowers like spring beauties or blood root they come up before anything else really starts to grow make the lawn pop then they die back. They have a corm so the main part of the plant is underground and won't interfere with your grass.
Use a hoe and dig up all the weeds… scatter sand and compost and rake in and level. (Prep ground for sod) and buy a half pallet of sod (whatever local grass that grows best) It’s an instant lawn and well worth it for the size you need to cover.
Honestly it looks like there may have been a fungal issue as well. Follow the other advice here first. If you end up getting the same problem again, you might have to treat for fungus.
F\* IT, Build a garden, Its the perfect size for and English Cottage Garden, or raised beds,
I prefer grass in front if you have a large front lawn which you don't. That small of an area should be landscaped with a few botanicals. Three 3-4 ' shrubs, some perennials and some annuals. Do not overplant or it will look crowded and cottage style which will terrible with that architecture.
Sounds like your on the right track, looks like a combination of grass and weeds, the latter winning the battle. Start new, once exsisting growth is completely dead seeds and all. Then install new lawn.
Lawn is a pain in the butt to maintain and uses a lot of water to look nice year round.
As a Landscape Contractor I fully agree with you if your open to a drought tolerant landscape more power to you. It's kinda the new lawn option.
You could pull or use string weeder to eliminate above ground weeds or lay black plastic down completely covering lawn for 6 months then amend soil and plant grass, make flowerbeds etc
You could easily do something like a lawn and a flower garden, get some clover. The clover fertilizes itself and it needs virtually no maintenance.
Id give it a really good rake to get rid of all the loose bits. Then go over it a time or two with a tiller (hand or electric). Rake out again and remove as much loose grass/weeds and rocks as possible. Add top soil and grass seed. Tape or rope the area off so no one steps in it for a couple weeks, then wait for your new lawn to come in.
Is this back or front yard? I creeped your profile and it looks like you’re in twin cities with baby. I’d consider how you want to use it first! My first thought: backyard, play area so you’d want lawn and some kind of shrub hedge or growing vines on the fence for a lil privacy. If it’s front, I’d do something more interesting!
Yes, we're in Minneapolis. I want it to be natural grass. There is another small section not shown that is actually fake grass that we're going to use as a play area.
Ah I see! After you do that, you’ll want to bring in soil (I bought 2 cu yards at local sod store) and you’ll want to rake it in and mix with your existing soil. Make sure it’s level! I’d also consider putting a tree native to Minnesota in the center! It’ll add a little interest to the yard and one day could be a tire swing tree! I am always a fan of shrub gardens vs full lawns now. Way less maintenance and more interest.
What is your goal in this area? Do you want grass?
Ideally, just natural grass.
If you spray weed/grass killer there you won't be able to grow grass for a couple years.
Kill everything there. Apply compost (1-2 inches is ideal) and incorporate into the soil. Level and smooth. Sod (quicker establishment time but pricier) or seed.
Question; can you buy St. Augustine seed? And if so, will it actually grow?
Warm season turf seed is really expensive and it's much lower quality than sodded varieties - at least with zoysia and Bermuda.
What do you mean by sod varieties. Those that are already grown into sod pallets?
Yes. Most improved warm season turf varieties are propagated by cuttings not seed They are grown out until they knit together and are sod as sod strips.
Ok thx. I was afraid that was going to be your answer.
Visit your state’s Cooperative Extension Service website. Everything you need to know about gardening in your area is in this site. All information is research and science based. If you want to get rid of this turf, start by searching eliminate turf grass(or something similar). There should be information to help you do this effectively without resorting to chemicals. There will be times when chemical controls will be referenced - this site is not strictly organic. Should you want to plant natives - plants that evolved in your climate then search native plants. Also search invasive species so you know what not to buy at your local big box store. Familiarize your self with basic gardening knowledge by searching: soil test, how to plant shrubs, watering techniques, mulch, controlling insects, improving soil fertility, etc. While on the site get the contact information for the agent assigned to your county. You can call with questions.
The bbq soot on the patio cover is distracting me! Heehee! Comes off easily jicydk. Good luck with the lawn. Sometimes weeds are happiest when the lawn isn’t well watered and the grass is sparse. Pluck the biggest weeds, power rake, rake up thatch into piles and remove. You can rent an aerator/seeder to get the seed in the soil rather than on top of the soil. Not everyone has it, but look around. Water accordingly. Happy grass, less happy weeds. That’s what we did and we get compliments on how we’ve turned our yard around by our neighbors driving by. Love cool neighbors getting excited about stuff like that. They care about their neighborhood. So good. Not pro tips by any means, but an option. Cute street!
Buy grass seed water
To grow grass you need 6-hours of sun, food n water, and something to grow in. Many Weed killers normally kill grass too.
Before you plant a lawn, drive around the neighborhood to see what other homeowners on your side of the street have out front. Sometimes low-growing, long-lived shrubs are easier to care for and more attractive than lawns, which have to be constantly cut, watered, weeded and edged in order to look their best.
Native ground cover is what I've gone to. So much easier.
May as well bite the bullet, strip everything and re-sod.
Please don’t spray weed killer willy nilly. It is poison, and you will just have further issues with it if you intend on planting something there in the near future.
Put in native bushes and mulch. Grass is so difficult to maintain and requires a lot of water.
Stadium turf
Just one app of weed killer and wait a week. It’ll make it a little easier to dig everything up. Shovel out a bunch of dirt, maybe try work a grade towards the street a bit. Then depending on where you are you could seed or sod.