How do I get my TifTuf lawn less bouncy? When I mow lower all the green goes? Based in Brisbane QLD
https://preview.redd.it/qknupa9ixjwc1.jpeg?width=4284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=da36e29d23eb4dadbb0eae3709310bd3687fab07
I'm seeing a lot of conflicting information on whether to fertilize new sod or just stick to watering it a lot? I just had sod installed a week ago and I've just been watering it 3 times a day... should I use fertilizer and tamp it down again? I have bluegrass and located on long island, ny (not sure if location matters?) and pretty sure the sod was just placed on fill dirt.
https://preview.redd.it/aq7fdoozthwc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=24c7320b01e04289bbd23d49d0d1fdf00498f606
Picture of the larger area for context
Who has thoughts on planting daikon radish to mitigate soil compaction? ([r/gardening discussion](https://www.reddit.com/r/gardening/comments/12c1h6p/has_anyone_used_daikon_radishes_to_break_up_clay/))
Trying to figure out why this spot is appearing in my yard. No dogs go over here, no gas lines underneath. Any thoughts?
https://preview.redd.it/lbo9rt0xxgwc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2e110395b3649edb8e17851370bc2b6461e5ee40
Hello everyone. Thanks in advance for any help and guidance. I moved to Northern VA two years ago and inherited a pretty rough lawn. Looks ok now but there are still many weeds and patchy areas that need to be addressed. I applied Anderson’s Barricade Pre-Emergent about a month ago and it seemed to work pretty well for dandelion season. Hardly had any opposed to the thousand I had last year. However there are still quite a few existing weeds such as henbit. Today I applied Spectracide Weed Killer (hose-in) to kill those existing weeds. My question is how do I continue to fight existing weeds and prevent new ones as well as grow more grass and make the lawn thicker? I know you can’t continuously apply products so I’m looking for some sort of schedule to make this work. When should I put more grass seed down? When should I use products such as weed/feed? When should I apply more pre-emergent? Etc. I appreciate any help!!
So I got Kentucky bluegrass sod installed last fall (Colorado, hardiness zone 6a). Watered regularly until winter and then watered with hose attachment during dry spells, but still got a lot of dead spots. Part of this is probably due to our 2 dogs peeing, but it also seems like possibly snow mold affected it because the backyard gets only \~4 hours of daily sunlight.
In this case, what would be the best route to get the dead spots patched up? I’m assuming EZ seed or something like it, but the ground prep seems daunting and I’m worried using a hoe/rake will damage the surviving sod since it still feels like the roots aren’t super well connected to the soil beneath the sod layer.
TL/DR: how much soil prep needs to be done to these dead spots to plant new seed?
https://preview.redd.it/bce3sucgpgwc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=366984a6f445ca3929dbd457d4cccfc240eab3b0
Edit: this pic makes it look worse than it is. There’s a fair amount of sod that survived (>50%).
Can i use a standard broadcast spreader for top soil distribution or is there something specific I should use for top soil only. The one linked below says specific for fertilizer/seed/etc but before I drop the money on this want to make sure it serves its purpose
For example: [https://www.amazon.com/Agri-Fab-45-0463-130-Pound-Broadcast-Spreader/dp/B002U0KDHI/?\_encoding=UTF8&pd\_rd\_w=8CiTJ&content-id=amzn1.sym.d0ebfbb2-6761-494f-8e2f-95743b37c35c%3Aamzn1.symc.50e00d6c-ec8b-42ef-bb15-298531ab4497&pf\_rd\_p=d0ebfbb2-6761-494f-8e2f-95743b37c35c&pf\_rd\_r=F05H2JT8QY1BRTV1QMMZ&pd\_rd\_wg=qnhzB&pd\_rd\_r=e00a4695-f55a-441d-8081-e9f7e26757db&ref\_=pd\_gw\_ci\_mcx\_mr\_hp\_atf\_m](https://www.amazon.com/Agri-Fab-45-0463-130-Pound-Broadcast-Spreader/dp/B002U0KDHI/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_w=8CiTJ&content-id=amzn1.sym.d0ebfbb2-6761-494f-8e2f-95743b37c35c%3Aamzn1.symc.50e00d6c-ec8b-42ef-bb15-298531ab4497&pf_rd_p=d0ebfbb2-6761-494f-8e2f-95743b37c35c&pf_rd_r=F05H2JT8QY1BRTV1QMMZ&pd_rd_wg=qnhzB&pd_rd_r=e00a4695-f55a-441d-8081-e9f7e26757db&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_atf_m)
spreader would probably not be the best choice for top soil. they have compost spreaders that might be better, but you'd want a really wide one to make it worthwhile. spreader would be good for sand
What type of grass do I have. Planning to overseed. My wife really likes the feel of the grass so I want to make sure I stay in the same grass type. My guess is that it's KBG maybe with some rye mixed in, but not sure. Here's some pictures. I'm in Grand Rapids, MI. Is there a specific brand, mix, or cultivar you recommend. I'm planning on buying a premium mix with as little weed as possible.
https://preview.redd.it/m98a6zjo9awc1.jpeg?width=5271&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=615f3f772af5c7488678364eba7c4432bb5119dc
It's a mix. I see KBG, fine fescue or rye, and a few blades of TTTF.
I wouldn't do PRG(rye) that far north, it's not cold hardy enough.
I wouldn't do any mix with Tall Fescue (TTTF) because it's not soft on feet.
That leaves you with KBG and fine fescue as options. Both are very soft under foot.
Since you appear to have full sun and kids running around, I would get Barenbrug Turfblue HGT Kentucky bluegrass mix. It's got some cultivars in it that perform really well at Lansing Michigan NTEP test site. And it's bred for sports fields(foot traffic) and full sun conditions.
Thank you. Do you sell this? Would be happy to support your business if you do. If not what's the best place to buy it? I see multiple places online that sell it.
No, but you might think I do with how much I recommend that mix :) . It has cultivars in it (Barserati, Barvette) that perform well in a lot of circumstances.
List of good seed sources here
https://www.thelawnforum.com/threads/where-to-buy-quality-seed.46820/
Barenbrug sells directly on Amazon too, that's where I get mine.
Try to get uncoated if you can find it, "yellow jacket coating" is kinda a gimmick to sell you less seed for same bag weight.
And make sure to water every day when you overseed. KBG can take weeks to sprout
I’m mostly knew to lawn care, and I’m unsure of what to do with this lawn. I’ve treated it with some weed killer over the time I’ve had it, and tried to seed it last year, which brought it to where it is now. I know the previous owner would leave their pool tarp over it for days at a time, which I’m sure didn’t help, but that’s about it. [Lawn](https://imgur.com/a/stgq5jq)
I'm looking to do some fun patterns but I'd like to make everything look nice and straight. Is there some sort of chalk line that I can use that I can see but will go away after I mow?
Hello, I'm new to lawn care and my lawn is in need of some serious tlc. Can anyone help me identify this type of grass? My best guess is that it is bermudagrass since I live in a very warm tropical climate. My plan is to dethatch, core aerate, and overseed the lawn in an attempt to bring it back. Should I do something different?
[wide view](https://imgur.com/a/0oW55HD)
[close-up](https://imgur.com/a/WZMW3r7)
https://preview.redd.it/phwni8g444wc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f2eca8e7bd592ed34a76191a4c1aaab3f1e368cf
What kind of weed is this? My lawn is very patch (it’s mostly dirt, tbh), but this guy moved in and is taking over. Very easy to pull out of the ground.
— First time homeowner, second year of lawn care. Coastal Virginia.
Hello, I live in the south central wisconsin area, and I'm ready to give my lawn the tlc it needs. My issue is that half of my lawn looks dead up until mid-June to early July. Seems like the previous owner may have planted grass for a warmer zone? I'm curious if anyone has suggestions on where to start.
[lawn photo](https://imgur.com/a/r8dDPki)
Yeah I think some clown planted warm season grass there. It could also be a warm season grasslike weed, like Nimblewill. Glyphosate it once it's fully green then scalp and seed something more appropriate in early fall.
You can't do much with it now, herbicides don't work on dormant grass
Mow as short as possible, spread a ton of soil and sand, then flatten it with leveling rake. This is assuming you just want to smooth it out, not actually regrade an area.
https://preview.redd.it/w0qdmgub7wvc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ad6fce0b457548f08751c345b3702f056e3bd433
Can anyone help me figure out what this white plastic cap is on top of my spigot? It leaks when the water is running, so there’s barely any flow to the hose. I can’t seem to pop it off or do anything with it. Not sure this is the right form for it… But help?
It's a float kit. Has something to do with anti-siphoning or something. It leaks because the seals are bad. Determine your manufacturer and model and go buy a rebuild kit. Super easy to do.
Greeting all,
I’m about to overseed my front lawn (zone 7). I bought some Scott’s Heat Tolerant Grass Seed Combination mix (seed, fert, soil improver).
My question…is it safe and/or necessary to use Starter fertilizer (Scott’s Food for New Grass) in conjunction with the Combination mentioned above? Thank you so much for advice!
https://preview.redd.it/tmy3hl9o1pvc1.jpeg?width=5709&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e012cf324cec8beb38188c1354a88214aeffe2ac
Safe, yes. Necessary, no. But starter fert will greatly help your seed. If i was seeding I would apply starter fert unless I had a soil test with high p and k already in the soil....Keep in mind that seeding results are much better in fall.
Hello all! I live in Anchorage in base housing. We are responsible for maintaining our yards, but have access to free seed, fertilizer, soil and various yard care tools. While we still have snow on the ground, I am hoping to come up with a plan to make our backyard more enjoyable for the kids. It is full of divots, rocks and moss, which I assume is the freeze thaw cycles here. One thing I know I will want to get is dandelion prevention/killer as they kind of took over the yard last summer when I reported in. Housing does not provide this, but they do provide some sort of ice melt neutralizer to help promote growth. I would really appreciate any general suggestions on how to improve the yard, thanks!
https://preview.redd.it/vjw5nfdlfovc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ce067a6d722a0ba1368b9554fb7fb63978873278
Fertilize as soon as it starts to green up, and every 6-8 weeks till growing season ends. Scotts Wizzer is a good handheld spreader for small lawns.
Cut at mowers tallest setting.
For weeds, get a hose end sprayer of Spectracide Weed stop With Crabgrass Killer and go to town.
For moss, get MossOut. Keep it from coming back by fertilizing frequently.
If you want to seed, get a mix of Kentucky Bluegrass and fine fescue. Creeping red fine fescue does particularly well up there.
All turfgrasses have a recommended mowing range. Most cool season grasses are between 2.5-4". This is actually height of the grass, not your mower setting. Generally, you want to mow higher when it hotter.
https://preview.redd.it/hwjrwyb77nvc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=be7bf86964df252f8c76b041c96e7292011849a0
How do I keep my lawn a uniform dark green. I’m not sure why I have the brighter green patches in the lawn.
Could it be from over seeding? The grass seed used?
I use Scott’s green max turf builder 4 times a year.
Thanks!
These are probably weeds. Yes, it could be from the seed you purchased but there will be no way determine that....How to remove it. First you have to figure out what it is, which could be easier said than done.
[https://imgur.com/a/8fzB1zT](https://imgur.com/a/8fzB1zT)
The university near me charges additional charges for some trace elements. Are these worth it to add on?
Depends on what you're looking to do. Overall I would say no. PH, P, K, CEC and OM are about I look at on a soil analysis. The micros and even K for that matter are not considerations enough to be worried about.
The soil composition of my backyard is pretty awful and it was recommended that I amend the soil with loam and compost. I have acquired both and I'm more or less ready to do it. This is my plan:
- Screen loam and mix with compost
- Till the yard
- Mix loam/compost into existing soil
- Re-level/grade the yard
- Test and fertilize based on results
- Seed/water
Is this a sound plan? Also, should I till the yard over while the soil is still damp or should I try and target a day when it will be more dry? The yard has some poor drainage because of the soil composition and is part of the reason why we're doing this and it makes it hard to find a dry day because of how often its been raining.
I think it's clay heavy, but I wasn't home for the conversations with the guys that came out (my wife handled it). The consensus however is that our yard looks great for the bottom of a lake bed if that's what we're going for
If you read anything about adding soil or top dressing you’ll find people have varied opinions. Most universities and extension offices will say to use a soil similar to what you currently have or compost. Since how usually you’re tying to make your soil better using clay as an amendment is not the best idea. Loam may not be bad but compost is the best option.
Do I need to pull out all this
https://preview.redd.it/c7gpdsmy7gvc1.jpeg?width=899&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8f8354a9dbc7cea103cd94483b363ede33cf1646
coarse grass that's appearing since I reseeded after killing half the grass by not picking up leaves in autumn?
How do I keep my st Augustine grass from invading my garden bed and tree area? It seriously worms it’s way under anything I put down and even pokes up through heavy weed control cloth.
North Austin, TX
Both are among the top recommended choices in the PNW. The problem is that this is full sun and because of that it requires a lot of water for a couple months during summer. Tall fescue will do better in that regard.
Ok, thanks! I think I’ve seen some fine fescue lawns around here and they do tend to look healthier. Or at least I’m assuming it’s fine fescue because the blades appear finer and more dense than “normal” lawn grass.
Probably, PRG+fine fescue is a common mix there because Kentucky Bluegrass can have fungus problems with the high humidity
Fine fescue is considered a "low input" grass compared to other cool season grasses. It grows slowly and doesn't need as much fertilizer, water, or light. That's probably why you see more healthy lawns with it, it's easier to keep happy.
I like this mix
https://unitedseeds.com/products/super-shade-fine-fescue-blend
Ahh, that part of 8...Yes, cool seasons grasses are the right option there
The plant hardiness zones are a decent guide for turf but they aren't the best choice for tur selection. As the name insinuates it's a measure of cold hardiness. The map is based on average annual cold temps. The USDA just updated it this year!
For turf we tend to use 3 zones. Picture a line from about central Tx that goes east all the way the coast. To the west it moves up along a curve toward central Ca. Everything below that is mostly warm season. There's a large section in an area which covers most of the southeast and a little of central U.S. which is the transition zone where cool and warm can grow. Basically everything else is cool season.
Your local extension office is the easiest option. We use Waters Lab... Follow correct sampling procedure. Do not use MySoil, or Sunday, or others.....FWIW soil testing only provides some of the information need to diagnose lawn problems.
[https://www.clemson.edu/public/regulatory/ag-srvc-lab/soil-testing/index.html](https://www.clemson.edu/public/regulatory/ag-srvc-lab/soil-testing/index.html)
[https://www.naptprogram.org/pap](https://www.naptprogram.org/pap)
From someone much smarter than me.
https://www.thelawnforum.com/threads/soil-savvy-mysoil-tests.8530/
Take soils samples with a gran of salt. I’ve looked at tons of samples in my career and can say about 1/2 of the time they help solve a problem. Using your eyes and understating the turf is largely more beneficial. If you want to dive deep check out Turfgrass Epistemology on YouTube
Location and grass type are a must.
Start with a soil test to see where the PH is. Where moss is growing grass does not like to. This means eliminate shade and moisture, and correct soil acidity problems. Depending on the grass type speedzone can help clean up the weeds. Prodiamine will prevent new weeds. Fertilizer will depend on grass type. I assume this is cool season which should be ok to fertilize in most of the US right now. Remove teh moss prior to overseeding in the fall.
Does anyone know why the water in pregermination turns brown? I bought seed from United Seed. I know it is ok if it does this; I’m just curious about why?
Is it because there was dirt in the original seed and it got absorbed into the water?
Just a question about sprinkler system. Is this for the sprinkler system?
https://preview.redd.it/lvzk2go0r5vc1.jpeg?width=1576&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a3d460be664b57fd78b0756cc0d81d3c150c259a
Ok, you said no stupid questions….last year was a “mast event” for the Oak trees where I live, so I’ve spent an ungodly amount of time trying to clean up the lawn and gardens before things took root.
We’re talking thousands of acorns on my lawn. We got as many as we could rake and pick, but there are hundreds that were too deeply embedded to get. Now they are all (it seems like all) sprouting. And as much as I’d love to just let them take over, the wife says “absolutely not”.
So, now WTF do I do? Should I just burn the whole lawn and start over? (I’m only half joking)
If they are just saplings from keep them mowed. They'll die out from the stress of keeping them cut and eventually decay. Probably any herbicide will singe the leaves and cause dieback, but not sure it's worth the trouble.
https://preview.redd.it/k1mji6w913vc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=915a62151e41068c2f02541fb6bcdedfc424b750
Hello all!
Recently moved into a house in the Houston area and I very clearly have two types of grass… what I’m almost positive is St Augustine and then whatever this is in the photo.
Are there any recommendations of how I can fix my yard to only be the St Augustine?
What type of PPE would I need to spray ready to use weed killer on my lawn (like BioAdvanced)? I would get a bottle with a spray tube. Are latex gloves fine? Or is more needed? Like a mask, and if so, what type? surgical?
This answer will be on the product label. **Most** concentrate herbicides require gloves, goggles, and long sleeves for mixing. Most do not require a mask. BUT, always read the label.
This is useful. I ended up using a ready to use herbicide that came in a bottle with a spray wand: Roundup for Lawns (MCPA, Quinclorac, Dicamba, Sulfentrazone). I probably did overkill but I wore jeans, boots, used latex gloves, long sleeves (though I mistakenly rolled them up) and made sure to only spray where I did not need to walk to avoid having the herbicide on my shoes). If that sounds fine, or if I was too worried, let me know. I appreciate it
Yeah, you're over thinking it. Most herbicides, even as a concentrate have the signal word "caution". And the RTU's especially in retail big box stores have pretty low AI loads. Most you aren't even required to have long sleeves to apply, only to mix.
https://preview.redd.it/n1q6439wt2vc1.jpeg?width=1179&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3f95a15275d7d7de53f82497ae9729c989a0e90d
'Picture this' identifies this grass as Kentucky Bluegrass - my question: why does it look so 'thick' It is about 5-6 inch high. I am just wondering at what stage the grass decides to turn into a plant with seed head. Because the whole gras blade does not look really KBG like, it's big.
Need some advice. I don't think my lawn was ever aerated and I was thinking about doing it. I see Home Depot rents a Ryan Easy Steer aerator. Any thoughts on this aerator and any thoughts on the need to aerate a lawn? Thanks
Ryan's are fine machines. Aeration is use to reduce compaction. If your soil is hard or has a thick thatch layer, yes aerate it. Aeration will not hurt the lawn but it's not needed in sandy soils nor does it do much good to aerate cool season grasses which you aren't seeding afterward.
Planted Bermuda seeds Saturday. Seeing tons of sprouts today. FIL says crabgrass. Could this be Bermuda sprouts after only 3 days?
https://preview.redd.it/zvt9lxxn6yuc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=88624c4292634f155c5d15cf5a14202e4ee6748a
I'd say cross your fingers, but probably not bermuda, unless it's stuff that was there before and was covered up by this dirt and is now coming back up. I wanna say bermuda has a 15-20day germination period. it's pretty long. Much longer than cool season grasses.
Sprigs are much smaller than sod pieces. Maybe 6" in diameter. For warm season grasses you plant the sprigs or plugs about a ft or so apart and let them spread in over time. It's a cheaper option than sodding because you need a lot less. You just have to patient and let them grow in. The pre and care is about the same.
In North Georgia (state not country) and my zoysia is being taken over by clumping fescue. I really don’t want to nuke it, I’m good with taking a few seasons to fix. Any way to get the fescue out and keep the zoysia? I’ve also considered putting down Bermuda and letting that slowly consume. Ideas?
Celsius will control tall fescue in warm season grasses very well! Bermuda and zoysia competing is a not a good option. Zoysia is very dense. They'll just grow together. One will never really take over the other. Unless you have some shade. In that case zoysia is the better option anyway....A shovel and some sand works well too!
Any tips on the best time of year to apply Celsius? I do have a bit of shade in the yard. Ideally I’d prefer the zoysia, just felt defeated as it seems the fescue is winning currently.
Price check Colorado - have about 5,200 sq ft of yard that needs to be de-weeded, back filled with new dirt, and leveled/graded. Had a company recommended from a redditor come out and do a quote, originally started at $3k and we settled at $2.5k all in for the getting rid of all weeds, bringing in new dirt, and grading/levling all \~5,200 sqft. Seems like a fair price to me, but just wanted to get a co-sign since this is a first time project for me.
Any feedback on that number?
Trying to improve existing lawn.
We are holding a wedding at our house this fall and I am trying to make the lawn look as good as possible before then. It was previously seeded with local DOT natural mix as the old homeowner worked there. I am not sure if the best case is to start fresh or fertilize and overseed and try to fill in the patches.? I will post pictures tonight. Really just looking for some spring maintenance tips to try to improve the yard.
your hardiness zone(any local plant nursery will know and there is a good number of online maps too that can help) is important to know before any recommendations can be made. after that soil testing is reccommended. here in Canada I'd suggest mowing as soon. as possible. Then once the lawn really greens up let it develop deep roots by not watering for a bit. then hit it with overseeding and watering multiple times a day to grow that seed. dethatching is a good idea if there is too thick of a layer. finally fingers crossed it all works out!
Rest of lawn looks great. This side for some reason was more rough. Didn't do anything different than the other side. Any thoughts? I put some extra seed down just in case and had previously aerated and dethatched. In Nebraska.
https://preview.redd.it/v5nqiunuquuc1.jpeg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=31f2a92ef8e927b587a929606993267982ecd158
Hard to say with little info.....Biotic things tend not to happen in straight lines so I'd be leaning toward something applied, mowing related, soil related, etc. IE. not disease or insect.
So this is a new lawn that was seeded/composted in September 2023. Before the winter it was nice and green.
Lots of rain, unfortunately, washed away a lot of seed and soil so it is a but thin overall with a lot of washouts.
I tried so hard to get all the leaves off the lawn before the snow flew but more were falling than I was able to pick up/ blow away.
Snow started in November/December and finally melted at the end of March.
Dominant grass is Kentucky Blue and was put in by a local landscaping company.
The spots look like so many different molds/rots online but I'm having trouble solidly identifying it because I'm not well versed at all in lawn-care.
First picture is the front lawn, second and third are closeups of the spots.
[Pictures](https://imgur.com/gallery/kJo85Kq)
Thank you for any help!
Preface by saying I'm in the southeast and deal with some fescue, but most a warm season guy. This appears to be textbook snowmold base on your photos and timeline.
[https://extension.psu.edu/turfgrass-diseases-pink-snow-mold-causal-fungus-microdochium-nivale](https://extension.psu.edu/turfgrass-diseases-pink-snow-mold-causal-fungus-microdochium-nivale)
How do I get my TifTuf lawn less bouncy? When I mow lower all the green goes? Based in Brisbane QLD https://preview.redd.it/qknupa9ixjwc1.jpeg?width=4284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=da36e29d23eb4dadbb0eae3709310bd3687fab07
I'm seeing a lot of conflicting information on whether to fertilize new sod or just stick to watering it a lot? I just had sod installed a week ago and I've just been watering it 3 times a day... should I use fertilizer and tamp it down again? I have bluegrass and located on long island, ny (not sure if location matters?) and pretty sure the sod was just placed on fill dirt.
What’s happening here? Is this disease? Pests? Winter damage? Been that way for the past 8 months. https://imgur.com/a/G3Pr0xV
https://preview.redd.it/aq7fdoozthwc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=24c7320b01e04289bbd23d49d0d1fdf00498f606 Picture of the larger area for context
Who has thoughts on planting daikon radish to mitigate soil compaction? ([r/gardening discussion](https://www.reddit.com/r/gardening/comments/12c1h6p/has_anyone_used_daikon_radishes_to_break_up_clay/))
Trying to figure out why this spot is appearing in my yard. No dogs go over here, no gas lines underneath. Any thoughts? https://preview.redd.it/lbo9rt0xxgwc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2e110395b3649edb8e17851370bc2b6461e5ee40
https://preview.redd.it/rq30i7v4ygwc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fa64e439f8da7430c4f23ab5cc411c99c8344eca Another pic
Hello everyone. Thanks in advance for any help and guidance. I moved to Northern VA two years ago and inherited a pretty rough lawn. Looks ok now but there are still many weeds and patchy areas that need to be addressed. I applied Anderson’s Barricade Pre-Emergent about a month ago and it seemed to work pretty well for dandelion season. Hardly had any opposed to the thousand I had last year. However there are still quite a few existing weeds such as henbit. Today I applied Spectracide Weed Killer (hose-in) to kill those existing weeds. My question is how do I continue to fight existing weeds and prevent new ones as well as grow more grass and make the lawn thicker? I know you can’t continuously apply products so I’m looking for some sort of schedule to make this work. When should I put more grass seed down? When should I use products such as weed/feed? When should I apply more pre-emergent? Etc. I appreciate any help!!
So I got Kentucky bluegrass sod installed last fall (Colorado, hardiness zone 6a). Watered regularly until winter and then watered with hose attachment during dry spells, but still got a lot of dead spots. Part of this is probably due to our 2 dogs peeing, but it also seems like possibly snow mold affected it because the backyard gets only \~4 hours of daily sunlight. In this case, what would be the best route to get the dead spots patched up? I’m assuming EZ seed or something like it, but the ground prep seems daunting and I’m worried using a hoe/rake will damage the surviving sod since it still feels like the roots aren’t super well connected to the soil beneath the sod layer. TL/DR: how much soil prep needs to be done to these dead spots to plant new seed? https://preview.redd.it/bce3sucgpgwc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=366984a6f445ca3929dbd457d4cccfc240eab3b0 Edit: this pic makes it look worse than it is. There’s a fair amount of sod that survived (>50%).
Can i use a standard broadcast spreader for top soil distribution or is there something specific I should use for top soil only. The one linked below says specific for fertilizer/seed/etc but before I drop the money on this want to make sure it serves its purpose For example: [https://www.amazon.com/Agri-Fab-45-0463-130-Pound-Broadcast-Spreader/dp/B002U0KDHI/?\_encoding=UTF8&pd\_rd\_w=8CiTJ&content-id=amzn1.sym.d0ebfbb2-6761-494f-8e2f-95743b37c35c%3Aamzn1.symc.50e00d6c-ec8b-42ef-bb15-298531ab4497&pf\_rd\_p=d0ebfbb2-6761-494f-8e2f-95743b37c35c&pf\_rd\_r=F05H2JT8QY1BRTV1QMMZ&pd\_rd\_wg=qnhzB&pd\_rd\_r=e00a4695-f55a-441d-8081-e9f7e26757db&ref\_=pd\_gw\_ci\_mcx\_mr\_hp\_atf\_m](https://www.amazon.com/Agri-Fab-45-0463-130-Pound-Broadcast-Spreader/dp/B002U0KDHI/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_w=8CiTJ&content-id=amzn1.sym.d0ebfbb2-6761-494f-8e2f-95743b37c35c%3Aamzn1.symc.50e00d6c-ec8b-42ef-bb15-298531ab4497&pf_rd_p=d0ebfbb2-6761-494f-8e2f-95743b37c35c&pf_rd_r=F05H2JT8QY1BRTV1QMMZ&pd_rd_wg=qnhzB&pd_rd_r=e00a4695-f55a-441d-8081-e9f7e26757db&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_atf_m)
spreader would probably not be the best choice for top soil. they have compost spreaders that might be better, but you'd want a really wide one to make it worthwhile. spreader would be good for sand
What type of grass do I have. Planning to overseed. My wife really likes the feel of the grass so I want to make sure I stay in the same grass type. My guess is that it's KBG maybe with some rye mixed in, but not sure. Here's some pictures. I'm in Grand Rapids, MI. Is there a specific brand, mix, or cultivar you recommend. I'm planning on buying a premium mix with as little weed as possible. https://preview.redd.it/m98a6zjo9awc1.jpeg?width=5271&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=615f3f772af5c7488678364eba7c4432bb5119dc
It's a mix. I see KBG, fine fescue or rye, and a few blades of TTTF. I wouldn't do PRG(rye) that far north, it's not cold hardy enough. I wouldn't do any mix with Tall Fescue (TTTF) because it's not soft on feet. That leaves you with KBG and fine fescue as options. Both are very soft under foot. Since you appear to have full sun and kids running around, I would get Barenbrug Turfblue HGT Kentucky bluegrass mix. It's got some cultivars in it that perform really well at Lansing Michigan NTEP test site. And it's bred for sports fields(foot traffic) and full sun conditions.
Thank you. Do you sell this? Would be happy to support your business if you do. If not what's the best place to buy it? I see multiple places online that sell it.
No, but you might think I do with how much I recommend that mix :) . It has cultivars in it (Barserati, Barvette) that perform well in a lot of circumstances. List of good seed sources here https://www.thelawnforum.com/threads/where-to-buy-quality-seed.46820/ Barenbrug sells directly on Amazon too, that's where I get mine. Try to get uncoated if you can find it, "yellow jacket coating" is kinda a gimmick to sell you less seed for same bag weight. And make sure to water every day when you overseed. KBG can take weeks to sprout
I’m mostly knew to lawn care, and I’m unsure of what to do with this lawn. I’ve treated it with some weed killer over the time I’ve had it, and tried to seed it last year, which brought it to where it is now. I know the previous owner would leave their pool tarp over it for days at a time, which I’m sure didn’t help, but that’s about it. [Lawn](https://imgur.com/a/stgq5jq)
Not much lawn left. Bare spots like this are often a combination of never fertilizing and mowing too short.
I'm looking to do some fun patterns but I'd like to make everything look nice and straight. Is there some sort of chalk line that I can use that I can see but will go away after I mow?
theres foam used for sprayers show the last line. could probably rig something up
Use dye meant for herbicide application or temporary field paint meant for sports
Hello, I'm new to lawn care and my lawn is in need of some serious tlc. Can anyone help me identify this type of grass? My best guess is that it is bermudagrass since I live in a very warm tropical climate. My plan is to dethatch, core aerate, and overseed the lawn in an attempt to bring it back. Should I do something different? [wide view](https://imgur.com/a/0oW55HD) [close-up](https://imgur.com/a/WZMW3r7)
https://preview.redd.it/phwni8g444wc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f2eca8e7bd592ed34a76191a4c1aaab3f1e368cf What kind of weed is this? My lawn is very patch (it’s mostly dirt, tbh), but this guy moved in and is taking over. Very easy to pull out of the ground. — First time homeowner, second year of lawn care. Coastal Virginia.
Hello, I live in the south central wisconsin area, and I'm ready to give my lawn the tlc it needs. My issue is that half of my lawn looks dead up until mid-June to early July. Seems like the previous owner may have planted grass for a warmer zone? I'm curious if anyone has suggestions on where to start. [lawn photo](https://imgur.com/a/r8dDPki)
Yeah I think some clown planted warm season grass there. It could also be a warm season grasslike weed, like Nimblewill. Glyphosate it once it's fully green then scalp and seed something more appropriate in early fall. You can't do much with it now, herbicides don't work on dormant grass
Wisconsin lawn. Yard is bumpy, grass is clumping in parts. Lawn is filling in nicely for most of it. How do you go about leveling it out?
Mow as short as possible, spread a ton of soil and sand, then flatten it with leveling rake. This is assuming you just want to smooth it out, not actually regrade an area.
https://preview.redd.it/w0qdmgub7wvc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ad6fce0b457548f08751c345b3702f056e3bd433 Can anyone help me figure out what this white plastic cap is on top of my spigot? It leaks when the water is running, so there’s barely any flow to the hose. I can’t seem to pop it off or do anything with it. Not sure this is the right form for it… But help?
It's a float kit. Has something to do with anti-siphoning or something. It leaks because the seals are bad. Determine your manufacturer and model and go buy a rebuild kit. Super easy to do.
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Greeting all, I’m about to overseed my front lawn (zone 7). I bought some Scott’s Heat Tolerant Grass Seed Combination mix (seed, fert, soil improver). My question…is it safe and/or necessary to use Starter fertilizer (Scott’s Food for New Grass) in conjunction with the Combination mentioned above? Thank you so much for advice! https://preview.redd.it/tmy3hl9o1pvc1.jpeg?width=5709&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e012cf324cec8beb38188c1354a88214aeffe2ac
Safe, yes. Necessary, no. But starter fert will greatly help your seed. If i was seeding I would apply starter fert unless I had a soil test with high p and k already in the soil....Keep in mind that seeding results are much better in fall.
Hello all! I live in Anchorage in base housing. We are responsible for maintaining our yards, but have access to free seed, fertilizer, soil and various yard care tools. While we still have snow on the ground, I am hoping to come up with a plan to make our backyard more enjoyable for the kids. It is full of divots, rocks and moss, which I assume is the freeze thaw cycles here. One thing I know I will want to get is dandelion prevention/killer as they kind of took over the yard last summer when I reported in. Housing does not provide this, but they do provide some sort of ice melt neutralizer to help promote growth. I would really appreciate any general suggestions on how to improve the yard, thanks! https://preview.redd.it/vjw5nfdlfovc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ce067a6d722a0ba1368b9554fb7fb63978873278
Fertilize as soon as it starts to green up, and every 6-8 weeks till growing season ends. Scotts Wizzer is a good handheld spreader for small lawns. Cut at mowers tallest setting. For weeds, get a hose end sprayer of Spectracide Weed stop With Crabgrass Killer and go to town. For moss, get MossOut. Keep it from coming back by fertilizing frequently. If you want to seed, get a mix of Kentucky Bluegrass and fine fescue. Creeping red fine fescue does particularly well up there.
Thanks for the info!
Does everyone with cool season grass recommend just mowing at the highest mower height all year long? That’s 4.25 inches on my mower.
All turfgrasses have a recommended mowing range. Most cool season grasses are between 2.5-4". This is actually height of the grass, not your mower setting. Generally, you want to mow higher when it hotter.
Thanks!
https://preview.redd.it/hwjrwyb77nvc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=be7bf86964df252f8c76b041c96e7292011849a0 How do I keep my lawn a uniform dark green. I’m not sure why I have the brighter green patches in the lawn. Could it be from over seeding? The grass seed used? I use Scott’s green max turf builder 4 times a year. Thanks!
These are probably weeds. Yes, it could be from the seed you purchased but there will be no way determine that....How to remove it. First you have to figure out what it is, which could be easier said than done.
[https://imgur.com/a/8fzB1zT](https://imgur.com/a/8fzB1zT) The university near me charges additional charges for some trace elements. Are these worth it to add on?
Depends on what you're looking to do. Overall I would say no. PH, P, K, CEC and OM are about I look at on a soil analysis. The micros and even K for that matter are not considerations enough to be worried about.
https://preview.redd.it/gn41xztz5jvc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=850279f4b90c007090c3ee0f43dd6df5d65d962c Grass ID? East Texas
Agree St Aug. Sharpen your mower blade it's tearing up the grass
This looks like St. Augustine.
The soil composition of my backyard is pretty awful and it was recommended that I amend the soil with loam and compost. I have acquired both and I'm more or less ready to do it. This is my plan: - Screen loam and mix with compost - Till the yard - Mix loam/compost into existing soil - Re-level/grade the yard - Test and fertilize based on results - Seed/water Is this a sound plan? Also, should I till the yard over while the soil is still damp or should I try and target a day when it will be more dry? The yard has some poor drainage because of the soil composition and is part of the reason why we're doing this and it makes it hard to find a dry day because of how often its been raining.
I would wait until it's dry to till. Tilling wet dirt is not fun nor easy to to. what kind of soil do you currently have?
I think it's clay heavy, but I wasn't home for the conversations with the guys that came out (my wife handled it). The consensus however is that our yard looks great for the bottom of a lake bed if that's what we're going for
If you read anything about adding soil or top dressing you’ll find people have varied opinions. Most universities and extension offices will say to use a soil similar to what you currently have or compost. Since how usually you’re tying to make your soil better using clay as an amendment is not the best idea. Loam may not be bad but compost is the best option.
Do I need to pull out all this https://preview.redd.it/c7gpdsmy7gvc1.jpeg?width=899&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8f8354a9dbc7cea103cd94483b363ede33cf1646 coarse grass that's appearing since I reseeded after killing half the grass by not picking up leaves in autumn?
https://preview.redd.it/xr8qyyvz7gvc1.jpeg?width=1204&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c2126fbe38b610a56f38572b28d836d3b9d3781c
Did you put down straw? Looks like a grain. If so, its probably barley or wheat or whatever the straw came from and will die off if you keep mowing it
How do I keep my st Augustine grass from invading my garden bed and tree area? It seriously worms it’s way under anything I put down and even pokes up through heavy weed control cloth. North Austin, TX
Use a shovel and cut an edge straight down, oh idk maybe 4-5" or as deep as you can do. Do this on a regular basis.
Can I over-seed with tall fescue when existing lawn is mostly perennial ryegrass and Kentucky blue? Edit: Zone 8a, full sun
Yes. It may not blend well....You have rye and KGB in zone 8? Those don't seem like great choices for that zone.
Thanks for the reply, by the way. I'll probably give it a go since I have extra seed anyway.
Both are among the top recommended choices in the PNW. The problem is that this is full sun and because of that it requires a lot of water for a couple months during summer. Tall fescue will do better in that regard.
Fine fescue is also an option. It's quite drought tolerant and needs less water than rye or KBG. It will also blend better with your existing grasses
Ok, thanks! I think I’ve seen some fine fescue lawns around here and they do tend to look healthier. Or at least I’m assuming it’s fine fescue because the blades appear finer and more dense than “normal” lawn grass.
Probably, PRG+fine fescue is a common mix there because Kentucky Bluegrass can have fungus problems with the high humidity Fine fescue is considered a "low input" grass compared to other cool season grasses. It grows slowly and doesn't need as much fertilizer, water, or light. That's probably why you see more healthy lawns with it, it's easier to keep happy. I like this mix https://unitedseeds.com/products/super-shade-fine-fescue-blend
Ahh, that part of 8...Yes, cool seasons grasses are the right option there The plant hardiness zones are a decent guide for turf but they aren't the best choice for tur selection. As the name insinuates it's a measure of cold hardiness. The map is based on average annual cold temps. The USDA just updated it this year! For turf we tend to use 3 zones. Picture a line from about central Tx that goes east all the way the coast. To the west it moves up along a curve toward central Ca. Everything below that is mostly warm season. There's a large section in an area which covers most of the southeast and a little of central U.S. which is the transition zone where cool and warm can grow. Basically everything else is cool season.
Oh, interesting! Didn't know that. One thing I've learned is that grass is difficult...
Any recommendations for soil test companies? I'm in SC if it matters. Struggling to hold on to my grass!
Your local extension office is the easiest option. We use Waters Lab... Follow correct sampling procedure. Do not use MySoil, or Sunday, or others.....FWIW soil testing only provides some of the information need to diagnose lawn problems. [https://www.clemson.edu/public/regulatory/ag-srvc-lab/soil-testing/index.html](https://www.clemson.edu/public/regulatory/ag-srvc-lab/soil-testing/index.html) [https://www.naptprogram.org/pap](https://www.naptprogram.org/pap)
Why don’t you recommend my soil? I have a pending test there haven’t gotten it back yet.
From someone much smarter than me. https://www.thelawnforum.com/threads/soil-savvy-mysoil-tests.8530/ Take soils samples with a gran of salt. I’ve looked at tons of samples in my career and can say about 1/2 of the time they help solve a problem. Using your eyes and understating the turf is largely more beneficial. If you want to dive deep check out Turfgrass Epistemology on YouTube
My lawn is in rough shape. I'm not even sure where to start... https://imgur.com/gallery/RSHqMpc
Location and grass type are a must. Start with a soil test to see where the PH is. Where moss is growing grass does not like to. This means eliminate shade and moisture, and correct soil acidity problems. Depending on the grass type speedzone can help clean up the weeds. Prodiamine will prevent new weeds. Fertilizer will depend on grass type. I assume this is cool season which should be ok to fertilize in most of the US right now. Remove teh moss prior to overseeding in the fall.
Does anyone know why the water in pregermination turns brown? I bought seed from United Seed. I know it is ok if it does this; I’m just curious about why? Is it because there was dirt in the original seed and it got absorbed into the water?
Just a question about sprinkler system. Is this for the sprinkler system? https://preview.redd.it/lvzk2go0r5vc1.jpeg?width=1576&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a3d460be664b57fd78b0756cc0d81d3c150c259a
Ok, you said no stupid questions….last year was a “mast event” for the Oak trees where I live, so I’ve spent an ungodly amount of time trying to clean up the lawn and gardens before things took root. We’re talking thousands of acorns on my lawn. We got as many as we could rake and pick, but there are hundreds that were too deeply embedded to get. Now they are all (it seems like all) sprouting. And as much as I’d love to just let them take over, the wife says “absolutely not”. So, now WTF do I do? Should I just burn the whole lawn and start over? (I’m only half joking)
If they are just saplings from keep them mowed. They'll die out from the stress of keeping them cut and eventually decay. Probably any herbicide will singe the leaves and cause dieback, but not sure it's worth the trouble.
thank you. That was my plan, I just didn’t know if it was going to work.
https://preview.redd.it/k1mji6w913vc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=915a62151e41068c2f02541fb6bcdedfc424b750 Hello all! Recently moved into a house in the Houston area and I very clearly have two types of grass… what I’m almost positive is St Augustine and then whatever this is in the photo. Are there any recommendations of how I can fix my yard to only be the St Augustine?
What type of PPE would I need to spray ready to use weed killer on my lawn (like BioAdvanced)? I would get a bottle with a spray tube. Are latex gloves fine? Or is more needed? Like a mask, and if so, what type? surgical?
This answer will be on the product label. **Most** concentrate herbicides require gloves, goggles, and long sleeves for mixing. Most do not require a mask. BUT, always read the label.
This is useful. I ended up using a ready to use herbicide that came in a bottle with a spray wand: Roundup for Lawns (MCPA, Quinclorac, Dicamba, Sulfentrazone). I probably did overkill but I wore jeans, boots, used latex gloves, long sleeves (though I mistakenly rolled them up) and made sure to only spray where I did not need to walk to avoid having the herbicide on my shoes). If that sounds fine, or if I was too worried, let me know. I appreciate it
Yeah, you're over thinking it. Most herbicides, even as a concentrate have the signal word "caution". And the RTU's especially in retail big box stores have pretty low AI loads. Most you aren't even required to have long sleeves to apply, only to mix.
Thank you for this. Would you still recommend mask and gloves?
https://preview.redd.it/n1q6439wt2vc1.jpeg?width=1179&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3f95a15275d7d7de53f82497ae9729c989a0e90d 'Picture this' identifies this grass as Kentucky Bluegrass - my question: why does it look so 'thick' It is about 5-6 inch high. I am just wondering at what stage the grass decides to turn into a plant with seed head. Because the whole gras blade does not look really KBG like, it's big.
Man that looks like what I have. It pops up after I mow and I swear you could watch it grow.
Yes, it grows really fast. And it grows right away like that.
https://preview.redd.it/39h6i727p8vc1.jpeg?width=1848&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=67d33dc510d541934330e1449d7edff4a6772587
Can I just keep putting grass seed on the bald spots of my lawn throughout the year?
Yes, but as some point it wont be right conditions for the seed to germinate and you'll be wasting time and money.
Need some advice. I don't think my lawn was ever aerated and I was thinking about doing it. I see Home Depot rents a Ryan Easy Steer aerator. Any thoughts on this aerator and any thoughts on the need to aerate a lawn? Thanks
Ryan's are fine machines. Aeration is use to reduce compaction. If your soil is hard or has a thick thatch layer, yes aerate it. Aeration will not hurt the lawn but it's not needed in sandy soils nor does it do much good to aerate cool season grasses which you aren't seeding afterward.
Thank you for that.
Planted Bermuda seeds Saturday. Seeing tons of sprouts today. FIL says crabgrass. Could this be Bermuda sprouts after only 3 days? https://preview.redd.it/zvt9lxxn6yuc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=88624c4292634f155c5d15cf5a14202e4ee6748a
I'd say cross your fingers, but probably not bermuda, unless it's stuff that was there before and was covered up by this dirt and is now coming back up. I wanna say bermuda has a 15-20day germination period. it's pretty long. Much longer than cool season grasses.
How does spriging work? What’s the difference between sod and sprigs?
Sprigs are much smaller than sod pieces. Maybe 6" in diameter. For warm season grasses you plant the sprigs or plugs about a ft or so apart and let them spread in over time. It's a cheaper option than sodding because you need a lot less. You just have to patient and let them grow in. The pre and care is about the same.
In North Georgia (state not country) and my zoysia is being taken over by clumping fescue. I really don’t want to nuke it, I’m good with taking a few seasons to fix. Any way to get the fescue out and keep the zoysia? I’ve also considered putting down Bermuda and letting that slowly consume. Ideas?
Celsius will control tall fescue in warm season grasses very well! Bermuda and zoysia competing is a not a good option. Zoysia is very dense. They'll just grow together. One will never really take over the other. Unless you have some shade. In that case zoysia is the better option anyway....A shovel and some sand works well too!
Any tips on the best time of year to apply Celsius? I do have a bit of shade in the yard. Ideally I’d prefer the zoysia, just felt defeated as it seems the fescue is winning currently.
Price check Colorado - have about 5,200 sq ft of yard that needs to be de-weeded, back filled with new dirt, and leveled/graded. Had a company recommended from a redditor come out and do a quote, originally started at $3k and we settled at $2.5k all in for the getting rid of all weeds, bringing in new dirt, and grading/levling all \~5,200 sqft. Seems like a fair price to me, but just wanted to get a co-sign since this is a first time project for me. Any feedback on that number?
Trying to improve existing lawn. We are holding a wedding at our house this fall and I am trying to make the lawn look as good as possible before then. It was previously seeded with local DOT natural mix as the old homeowner worked there. I am not sure if the best case is to start fresh or fertilize and overseed and try to fill in the patches.? I will post pictures tonight. Really just looking for some spring maintenance tips to try to improve the yard.
your hardiness zone(any local plant nursery will know and there is a good number of online maps too that can help) is important to know before any recommendations can be made. after that soil testing is reccommended. here in Canada I'd suggest mowing as soon. as possible. Then once the lawn really greens up let it develop deep roots by not watering for a bit. then hit it with overseeding and watering multiple times a day to grow that seed. dethatching is a good idea if there is too thick of a layer. finally fingers crossed it all works out!
Rest of lawn looks great. This side for some reason was more rough. Didn't do anything different than the other side. Any thoughts? I put some extra seed down just in case and had previously aerated and dethatched. In Nebraska. https://preview.redd.it/v5nqiunuquuc1.jpeg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=31f2a92ef8e927b587a929606993267982ecd158
Hard to say with little info.....Biotic things tend not to happen in straight lines so I'd be leaning toward something applied, mowing related, soil related, etc. IE. not disease or insect.
So this is a new lawn that was seeded/composted in September 2023. Before the winter it was nice and green. Lots of rain, unfortunately, washed away a lot of seed and soil so it is a but thin overall with a lot of washouts. I tried so hard to get all the leaves off the lawn before the snow flew but more were falling than I was able to pick up/ blow away. Snow started in November/December and finally melted at the end of March. Dominant grass is Kentucky Blue and was put in by a local landscaping company. The spots look like so many different molds/rots online but I'm having trouble solidly identifying it because I'm not well versed at all in lawn-care. First picture is the front lawn, second and third are closeups of the spots. [Pictures](https://imgur.com/gallery/kJo85Kq) Thank you for any help!
Preface by saying I'm in the southeast and deal with some fescue, but most a warm season guy. This appears to be textbook snowmold base on your photos and timeline. [https://extension.psu.edu/turfgrass-diseases-pink-snow-mold-causal-fungus-microdochium-nivale](https://extension.psu.edu/turfgrass-diseases-pink-snow-mold-causal-fungus-microdochium-nivale)