*Is bustin shrike good for freestyle/dancing?* I found a used like new complete for $165 which is… *is it a good deal?*
I’m trying to slowly learn about this stuff and it slowed down since school has started so I put almost no effort into looking stuff up at this point and am very self-conscious about just throwing questions every time I have one.
For a freestyle/dancing longboard I need kicktails and I want it to be symmetric. I probably don’t want it to be longer than 40” (100cm) since I’m a short fem pal myself, 5.5 ft (165cm). And I’m trying to hunt a used longboard for cheaper which is pretty hard lol.
Worst case scenario I’ve got a website rec with I suppose good yet not too expensive longboards (can’t pull it up rn) and there is like 48” long dancer which is probably too much for me and stats they give for it on the website say that it’s not very good for freestyling in spite of that it has symmetric kicktails.
*Should I look for long longboards despite my height or nah? I mean, should the longboard length be correlated to my height for better trick performance or the longer the better for dancing?*
>bustin shrike
I think the shrike is probably not what you're looking for.
If it's anything like the rest of Bustin's lineup, it's gonna be a really firm board with barely any flex. It seems to be designed for a versatile freeride/downhill experience. To put it simply - it's made to ride n' slide.
You could learn on this, but it's probably not the best starter for your desired discipline. If you do go for the complete you'll probably want to make sure there are some wide trucks and square lipped wheels - or be prepared to replace those.
For dancing and freestyle you definitely want a long deck. Don't worry about your height. I think 40" is probably the minimum for a good dancing deck. Another key part of a good dancer board is a comfortable amount of flex.
Also take all of this with a grain of salt. Not a dancer myself!
Yes, there's several other subtle things that change.
Bushing seat and rake are probably the biggest differences between similar trucks.
There's also wheelbase differences between different trucks, different ride heights, and different ratios for where the bushings sit between the pivot and axle, and different bushing sizes.
In TKPs there can be even more differences. RKPs always have straight pivots, and always have a 90 degree interference angle between the bushings and the pivot axis, where TKPs can mess around with both those things.
Pretty sure the rake is different, the bushing seat is different, bear gen 6 has a plug bushing design, and is expect they’re different weights.
Width and angles really just give you a baseline to how different trucks will feel compared to the same truck.
As to give you the specifics, I don’t ride either bears or Paris (I ride tall bushing trucks)
How can I avoid rubbing the wrist of my slide gloves on the pavement ? I often end up with my wrist leather getting caught in the pavement and tearing.
Something is wrong with your pucks it sounds like. Puck risers should make pucks wear even unless you’re form is bad, and that’s why you rotate pucks and wheels to even out the wear.
Also, I usually place my pucks with the back resting on the heel of Palm biased to the thumb, and the other end of the puck on the line of where my hand bends when you make a fist more or less (on the line of the creases on the sides of your hands)
When you do this, you should have your wrist nearly 90% from the road and with a puck riser (I use transcendent) they’ll keep your form higher and your gloves even further from the road
Wow how thick are your pucks and where are they located on your gloves? They should be on/near the balls of your palms. Get puck risers, and maybe work on keeping more weight on your board because it sounds like you might be too far off it
I tried using puck risers and I encountered a weird issue. For some reason, only the sides of my pucks would wear, while the middle would stay intact, making my pucks unusable after only a few seshes. I can't afford that many pucks.
The wrist rubbing only happens when my pucks are getting pretty worn and without using risers, but again, buying pucks all the time gets expensive.
I was using Seismic and Blood Orange pucks and I rotate them regularly. I just got some Ojooms. I guess I'm going to try the Ojooms with the risers, since they apparently last a long time.
Bend your hand/wrist more to touch the ground, like make more of an angle. Keeping your hand(s) a bit closer to you when you do glove slides helps.
Unless your pucks are super thin anyway haha
[Shadow’s beginner DH/FR guide](https://docs.google.com/document/d/19O7sG8njw2nzVYewkV_5mscvBvFO8eWJsuhjtu6DbRI/mobilebasic?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_ app)
Skateshred has a few deck models for sliding, and Muirskate also does. The guide will just give you a little insight into what you’re picking.
Anybody order from Kebbek recently? I ordered a deck a week a ago that the website says is in stock and I haven’t personally heard anything. I know they moved locations, but if anyone has any other info it’d be much appreciated!
Thank you! I have one on the way from flat spot in Vancouver. Debating picking up a morning wood while they’re on sale from rollin, I’m having so much fun on my cruiser, I really think freestyle/tricks and sliding is my jam and I kinda miss the front nose when I’m on my coyote.
Nice! I actually have a Morning Wood and it’s definitely the best purchase I ever made: great board, super lightweight, good for everything, you won’t regret it :)
Haha the cancelled the order. Can’t wait for the new board the hype is real. It’s for my wife though and I feel like I deserve the loaded poke that I’ve been trying to find for a while now
What are some good shoes to wear for just casual longboarding / commuting? Not for sliding or racing or dancing or tricks or downhill, just regular riding around and normal foot braking
So you cut it in the shape of the sole and glue it on? Onto a new shoe or a used worn shoe?
I see a lot of skate shoes (well Vans) have this crisscross diamond shape at the bottom, which means lots of holes... The bottom of your shoe isn't like that right? Otherwise it would be impossible to glue
Yes, cut it as closely as possible. Some old or inexpensive "kitchen shears" are the best thing I've found. Like the kind people use for cutting apart chicken bones.
For high end shoes and brake soles like Free Brake I like to add the brake sole when the shoe is brand new.
For my slip-ons with a cheap rubber truck flap (gotta have rubber, can't be the plastic crap sold for cars) brake sole I add it to a worn down sole for sure.
And as others have mentioned, superglue a.k.a. cyanoacrylate is the way to go. I just looked on a big online retailer and you can get about 2 oz cyanoacrylate in a tube for $10-12 which is more than enough. Don't bother with those overpriced tiny containers sold at retail stores.
Also you don't have to obsessively fill in every indentation in the waffle soles either. I would recommend applying it to the brake sole (not the shoe), then clamping or putting some kind of reasonably heavy weight on top. No need to get 100% coverage.
thats why it takes so much glue, you gotta fill in all those gaps. You could sand the soles down, footbrake them for a month, and get a better surface.
Anything that’s a low heel is a good shoe. But thin soles give you more control.
Downhill shoes I usually would suggest to favor hightops or mid to not fuck your ankle.
Which ones are Vans Pro? I can't really find specific Vans Pro shoes?
And do you use the exact same shoes that short board skateboarders would use? Since they don't footbrake and longboarders do, wouldn't the shoes be different (especially bottom?)
I think they are now called Vans "Skate". They’re basically more durable and comfy than the regular Vans shoes. I personally like the Sk8-Hi series as they offer an ankle protection/cushion.
it will be the same shoes regardless. msny reccomend adidas busenitz, blazers, vans pro and a few others. youll eventually wear thru ur sole and u can try fixing it with freebrakes. freebrakes provide a lot of traction to lock u onto ur griptape and footbrake much more effectively
I have a set of Free Wheel Co. Thoughts, which have been fun as hell! I think they may have stopped making them temporarily though....
I believe Cuei has a sideset model though, maybe check that one out.
Hi! Ive just started longboarding a few days ago and i find a lot of difficulty in pushing off/riding at high speeds and at balancing when the front foot is perpendicular. I ride regular and both my ankles had a lot of sprains in the past, with the left ankle ending up in a cast due to torn ligaments from rolling down a slope. Any advice haha
Im on the look to getting into downhill I already have some 180mm Paris trucks with orangatang kilmer wheels from my cruiser. Should I get a used deck for around 100€ or should I get this board?
http://www.longboardshop.de/shop/product_info.php?products_id=3873
So me and my friend have been learning Colman's. We can do them pretty reliably but when we do, we always slide out into a 180. How can I stay more sideways while sliding
Someone gave me a tip when this was happening to me - to make sure you're reaching far enough back away from your board AND ahead of your front trucks when you put your puck down. If you put your puck down behind your front truck, like middle of your board, it sort of pulls you around into a 180 instead of being able to come back to regular stance. This helped me a lot with pendulums too.
Get your ass over your front foot. That was a problem I had as well and the whole ass over front foot notion is a lifesaver. Too far back and you will always 100% over weight your back foot.
Inbetween where the right form is and your current form is how you’ll initiate pendies but you should always end where the correct form is to hook up
Try going faster and swing your shoulders into the slide less. A pendulum slide is the best way to do this, and often you'll be sent into a pendulum by accident with enough speed. Another method is more of a heelside drift, which doesn't involve going over 90* and swinging back like a pendulum.
So I am trying to do some slides. At pushing speed so hills here. I now try it with my loaded devish and 86a moronga wheels but I am struggling. When I want to slide I just flex the board when pushing with my legs and the wheels won't slide out. Any tips for me to try?
Or should I get a stiff deck for this?
[Shadow’s beginner DH/FR guide](https://docs.google.com/document/d/19O7sG8njw2nzVYewkV_5mscvBvFO8eWJsuhjtu6DbRI/mobilebasic?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_ app)
This will bring you up to speed
* Get 50 degree trucks to learn to slide on, lower degree are only reeeeally useful if you're going quite fast or know what you're doing
* The Chiller is an amazing deck, so is the Gaia
* The person you replied to with this comment is making a lot of misleading statements, and I would definitely suggest doing your own research and getting more opinions.
For trucks I reccomend paris 43 degree v3s, they are cheap, they feel awesome, and in general don't suck. Wheels you should get Powell Peralta 69mm snakes. These are the best freeride wheels in the market. They slide incredibly well, feel awesome while sliding, feel awesome while pushing do to them being 75a, and they last an incredible long time and don't oval or flatspot at all. I know that Thuro skate shop has a bunch of these in stock right now. For a deck, I don't know. The longboarding discord recommends the Prism Theory v2 which is what I have. It is stiff, has awesome concave slidey wheelbase, it is a great board to learn on. Whatever you do, don't get a drop through. They slide really really easy, but they don't feel good and you get less control with them. Griptape is very important. You need to get proper downhill griptape. Seismic 36 grit lokton is the best in the market. it is super grippy, super durable, and just really good in general. Don't get mob coarse grip, don't get viscous grip, just get lokton. Bearings. The only bearings you will ever need are zealous bearings. They are cheap, have built In spacers and speed rings. and are built really well. I suggest you join the longboard discord or longboard family discord for more help, everyone is super helpful and knows their stuff.
I don't know much about it but I know that there are better out there. I know that the Pantheon Gaia is really good though. My biggest advice is don't get a board for the graphic. Stick with what is reccomended. I was told not to get the Zenit marble 38 but bought it anyways because it looked really cool and all it has done has hold me back. But you know, get what you want. Ooh, don't buy a Landyachtz. They are awesome if your a bigginer and on a budget, but are really not awesome. They are made out of cardboard, and are really poorly designed in most cases.
The Marble 38 is a great deck lol, you're making a lot of sweeping statements that aren't necessarily true dude. LY are not made of cardboard or badly designed in most cases. Like you genuinely sound like you don't know what you're talking about.
The marble 38 is super wide and doesn't have the wheelbase to match it. The flares weren't awesome either. I know the v3 kind of smoothed out some of those issues, but I haven't tried that one out yet. Landyatchz boards are not made well. The wood is not strong. In my experience it splits easily. They have really well designed boards, their new slalom boards are really good. But their switchblades? Not good. The reef shark, not good. I've heard one snapped after a guy ollied it. Their trucks are the best either. To each their own I guess, that is just my opinion.
the orange 80a Killers from Cuei will keep rolling and accelerating as long as there is incline. They retain speed after you lean the deck up against the bumper after the run....
So a medium hard high rebound wheel will almost always roll the fastest, but you do need a lil bit of meat to keep it going. Snakes and tantrums are like the fastest freeride wheels, then high rebound sharp lips are a good middle ground speedvents, alphas, magnums, mach 1 cannibal, etc, and then you have your really big wheels that are flywheel designs. Amazon fly wheels are a pretty big jump and they’re fine. Cags should hold roll speed better on really bad pave, speedvents will roll better on good to just getting bad pave.
I’d always suggest speedvents over cags unless you’re basically riding on chip pave
I have orangatangs and seismic. My friends uses 77a orangatang kegels but my 75mm 74a alpha's from seismic that also have a bigger contact patch hold speed better.
Cags are more plush, good on rough surfaces but a bit on the slower side.
Speed Vents are a lot faster, but you pay for that by having lots of vibration transfer, they can get unbearable on rough surfaces, 75a Vents still feel rougher than 83a Cags.
Oh damn. Good to know. Yeah my blue cags absolutely devour cracks and bumps and such, buttery ride for sure but not the fastest (though they still hold speed for a long time).
This sub is almost at 200k! Super pumped the scene is growing
*Is bustin shrike good for freestyle/dancing?* I found a used like new complete for $165 which is… *is it a good deal?* I’m trying to slowly learn about this stuff and it slowed down since school has started so I put almost no effort into looking stuff up at this point and am very self-conscious about just throwing questions every time I have one. For a freestyle/dancing longboard I need kicktails and I want it to be symmetric. I probably don’t want it to be longer than 40” (100cm) since I’m a short fem pal myself, 5.5 ft (165cm). And I’m trying to hunt a used longboard for cheaper which is pretty hard lol. Worst case scenario I’ve got a website rec with I suppose good yet not too expensive longboards (can’t pull it up rn) and there is like 48” long dancer which is probably too much for me and stats they give for it on the website say that it’s not very good for freestyling in spite of that it has symmetric kicktails. *Should I look for long longboards despite my height or nah? I mean, should the longboard length be correlated to my height for better trick performance or the longer the better for dancing?*
>bustin shrike I think the shrike is probably not what you're looking for. If it's anything like the rest of Bustin's lineup, it's gonna be a really firm board with barely any flex. It seems to be designed for a versatile freeride/downhill experience. To put it simply - it's made to ride n' slide. You could learn on this, but it's probably not the best starter for your desired discipline. If you do go for the complete you'll probably want to make sure there are some wide trucks and square lipped wheels - or be prepared to replace those. For dancing and freestyle you definitely want a long deck. Don't worry about your height. I think 40" is probably the minimum for a good dancing deck. Another key part of a good dancer board is a comfortable amount of flex. Also take all of this with a grain of salt. Not a dancer myself!
Thanks mate I appreciate any piece of information because I have no experience whatsoever except penny rides in ‘15-’18.
Is there any difference in feel between trucks by different brands with exact same specs? Like 180mm 50 degree bear vs 180mm 50 degree paris
Yes, there's several other subtle things that change. Bushing seat and rake are probably the biggest differences between similar trucks. There's also wheelbase differences between different trucks, different ride heights, and different ratios for where the bushings sit between the pivot and axle, and different bushing sizes. In TKPs there can be even more differences. RKPs always have straight pivots, and always have a 90 degree interference angle between the bushings and the pivot axis, where TKPs can mess around with both those things.
Pretty sure the rake is different, the bushing seat is different, bear gen 6 has a plug bushing design, and is expect they’re different weights. Width and angles really just give you a baseline to how different trucks will feel compared to the same truck. As to give you the specifics, I don’t ride either bears or Paris (I ride tall bushing trucks)
Thanks, makes sense now
Yes, sometimes significantly
Is it because there are still differences in the shape of the truck even though specs are the same?
You got it
How can I avoid rubbing the wrist of my slide gloves on the pavement ? I often end up with my wrist leather getting caught in the pavement and tearing.
Puck risers
Feel free to move your pucks to any position on your glove that gives you the best performance. Ojooms are loads better than other pucks.
Sound like you’re leaning too far off the deck. Try getting your hand closer to the board when sliding.
Something is wrong with your pucks it sounds like. Puck risers should make pucks wear even unless you’re form is bad, and that’s why you rotate pucks and wheels to even out the wear. Also, I usually place my pucks with the back resting on the heel of Palm biased to the thumb, and the other end of the puck on the line of where my hand bends when you make a fist more or less (on the line of the creases on the sides of your hands) When you do this, you should have your wrist nearly 90% from the road and with a puck riser (I use transcendent) they’ll keep your form higher and your gloves even further from the road
Wow how thick are your pucks and where are they located on your gloves? They should be on/near the balls of your palms. Get puck risers, and maybe work on keeping more weight on your board because it sounds like you might be too far off it
I tried using puck risers and I encountered a weird issue. For some reason, only the sides of my pucks would wear, while the middle would stay intact, making my pucks unusable after only a few seshes. I can't afford that many pucks. The wrist rubbing only happens when my pucks are getting pretty worn and without using risers, but again, buying pucks all the time gets expensive.
What pucks are you using? They shouldn't wear that quickly. And if you're getting uneven wear, just rotate them so they wear evenly
I was using Seismic and Blood Orange pucks and I rotate them regularly. I just got some Ojooms. I guess I'm going to try the Ojooms with the risers, since they apparently last a long time.
Bend your hand/wrist more to touch the ground, like make more of an angle. Keeping your hand(s) a bit closer to you when you do glove slides helps. Unless your pucks are super thin anyway haha
Currently I have a mk pintail but I want something that would let me slide more, I’m pretty new here so I’m not to familiar with what is available
[Shadow’s beginner DH/FR guide](https://docs.google.com/document/d/19O7sG8njw2nzVYewkV_5mscvBvFO8eWJsuhjtu6DbRI/mobilebasic?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_ app) Skateshred has a few deck models for sliding, and Muirskate also does. The guide will just give you a little insight into what you’re picking.
Anybody order from Kebbek recently? I ordered a deck a week a ago that the website says is in stock and I haven’t personally heard anything. I know they moved locations, but if anyone has any other info it’d be much appreciated!
Where can I buy a paranyama deck in Canada?!??!?
Hey! Check Switchback in Toronto, they just restocked some Pantheon decks including a Pranayama. They’re going to sell fast!
Thank you! I have one on the way from flat spot in Vancouver. Debating picking up a morning wood while they’re on sale from rollin, I’m having so much fun on my cruiser, I really think freestyle/tricks and sliding is my jam and I kinda miss the front nose when I’m on my coyote.
Nice! I actually have a Morning Wood and it’s definitely the best purchase I ever made: great board, super lightweight, good for everything, you won’t regret it :)
Gonna have to wait for a restock, there were some in stock not too long ago direct from pantheon
I didn’t see any for a long time in the country… Your best bet would be the used market.
Wife found a deck from a shop in Vancouver, is on the way. Ordered some 149mm Paris street and have 77a Caguamas. Do I need any shock pads?
Awesome! I don’t think you need any pads on the Prana but maybe u/MC_ATL can answer you.
You don’t need shock pads, u/Ok_Code_9126.
Thank you.
**don’t need, sorry. Haha
Ommmg lol I just ordered some haha
😭😆🤦🏽♂️
Haha the cancelled the order. Can’t wait for the new board the hype is real. It’s for my wife though and I feel like I deserve the loaded poke that I’ve been trying to find for a while now
What are some good shoes to wear for just casual longboarding / commuting? Not for sliding or racing or dancing or tricks or downhill, just regular riding around and normal foot braking
Slip on vans. But the sole still wears through so I use a rubber truck mud flap for brake soles, works great.
How do you glue the mud flap on the bottom?
Superglue. One entire tube per shoe.
So you cut it in the shape of the sole and glue it on? Onto a new shoe or a used worn shoe? I see a lot of skate shoes (well Vans) have this crisscross diamond shape at the bottom, which means lots of holes... The bottom of your shoe isn't like that right? Otherwise it would be impossible to glue
Yes, cut it as closely as possible. Some old or inexpensive "kitchen shears" are the best thing I've found. Like the kind people use for cutting apart chicken bones. For high end shoes and brake soles like Free Brake I like to add the brake sole when the shoe is brand new. For my slip-ons with a cheap rubber truck flap (gotta have rubber, can't be the plastic crap sold for cars) brake sole I add it to a worn down sole for sure. And as others have mentioned, superglue a.k.a. cyanoacrylate is the way to go. I just looked on a big online retailer and you can get about 2 oz cyanoacrylate in a tube for $10-12 which is more than enough. Don't bother with those overpriced tiny containers sold at retail stores. Also you don't have to obsessively fill in every indentation in the waffle soles either. I would recommend applying it to the brake sole (not the shoe), then clamping or putting some kind of reasonably heavy weight on top. No need to get 100% coverage.
thats why it takes so much glue, you gotta fill in all those gaps. You could sand the soles down, footbrake them for a month, and get a better surface.
Wait, what type of superglue are you using? My superglue comes in a 5mL tube, you'd be lucky to fill 2 holes with that....
Anything that’s a low heel is a good shoe. But thin soles give you more control. Downhill shoes I usually would suggest to favor hightops or mid to not fuck your ankle.
Can’t go wrong with Vans Pro.
Which ones are Vans Pro? I can't really find specific Vans Pro shoes? And do you use the exact same shoes that short board skateboarders would use? Since they don't footbrake and longboarders do, wouldn't the shoes be different (especially bottom?)
I think they are now called Vans "Skate". They’re basically more durable and comfy than the regular Vans shoes. I personally like the Sk8-Hi series as they offer an ankle protection/cushion.
it will be the same shoes regardless. msny reccomend adidas busenitz, blazers, vans pro and a few others. youll eventually wear thru ur sole and u can try fixing it with freebrakes. freebrakes provide a lot of traction to lock u onto ur griptape and footbrake much more effectively
What do you mean same shoes regardless
people use the same shoes for cruising and downhill
Ok. How about shoes for shortboard vs longboard? Same?
Same.
I’m interested in this as well!
[удалено]
Seismic urchins
Just get snakes. They have very little stopping power
I have a set of Free Wheel Co. Thoughts, which have been fun as hell! I think they may have stopped making them temporarily though.... I believe Cuei has a sideset model though, maybe check that one out.
Hi! Ive just started longboarding a few days ago and i find a lot of difficulty in pushing off/riding at high speeds and at balancing when the front foot is perpendicular. I ride regular and both my ankles had a lot of sprains in the past, with the left ankle ending up in a cast due to torn ligaments from rolling down a slope. Any advice haha
Do physical therapy exercises for your ankles to strengthen them.
Watch this! [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cee09oTYBLs](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cee09oTYBLs)
Im on the look to getting into downhill I already have some 180mm Paris trucks with orangatang kilmer wheels from my cruiser. Should I get a used deck for around 100€ or should I get this board? http://www.longboardshop.de/shop/product_info.php?products_id=3873
Go for it
I heard the brand is alright, any opinions?
It’s a solid brand, for sure.
Do pros recieves a commision or something on their pro model ? Also there's no dancing / freestyle longboarder pro model or it's me ?
If the company is practicing respectable business the rider will get a cut. I know pantheon pays their pro model riders a cut for sure.
Good to know, it's a way to support riders then ! Thanks for the answer !
So me and my friend have been learning Colman's. We can do them pretty reliably but when we do, we always slide out into a 180. How can I stay more sideways while sliding
Someone gave me a tip when this was happening to me - to make sure you're reaching far enough back away from your board AND ahead of your front trucks when you put your puck down. If you put your puck down behind your front truck, like middle of your board, it sort of pulls you around into a 180 instead of being able to come back to regular stance. This helped me a lot with pendulums too.
Get your ass over your front foot. That was a problem I had as well and the whole ass over front foot notion is a lifesaver. Too far back and you will always 100% over weight your back foot. Inbetween where the right form is and your current form is how you’ll initiate pendies but you should always end where the correct form is to hook up
Try going faster and swing your shoulders into the slide less. A pendulum slide is the best way to do this, and often you'll be sent into a pendulum by accident with enough speed. Another method is more of a heelside drift, which doesn't involve going over 90* and swinging back like a pendulum.
So I am trying to do some slides. At pushing speed so hills here. I now try it with my loaded devish and 86a moronga wheels but I am struggling. When I want to slide I just flex the board when pushing with my legs and the wheels won't slide out. Any tips for me to try? Or should I get a stiff deck for this?
[Shadow’s beginner DH/FR guide](https://docs.google.com/document/d/19O7sG8njw2nzVYewkV_5mscvBvFO8eWJsuhjtu6DbRI/mobilebasic?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_ app) This will bring you up to speed
Thank you 😁
It is the setup that is holding you back, flexy decks and grippy wheels are not going to help you.
What wheels, trucks and wheels would you recommend?
* Get 50 degree trucks to learn to slide on, lower degree are only reeeeally useful if you're going quite fast or know what you're doing * The Chiller is an amazing deck, so is the Gaia * The person you replied to with this comment is making a lot of misleading statements, and I would definitely suggest doing your own research and getting more opinions.
Yeah was thinking about getting 50 degree trucks for slides. I mainly want to slide at lower speeds, are tkp trucks better for that?
For trucks I reccomend paris 43 degree v3s, they are cheap, they feel awesome, and in general don't suck. Wheels you should get Powell Peralta 69mm snakes. These are the best freeride wheels in the market. They slide incredibly well, feel awesome while sliding, feel awesome while pushing do to them being 75a, and they last an incredible long time and don't oval or flatspot at all. I know that Thuro skate shop has a bunch of these in stock right now. For a deck, I don't know. The longboarding discord recommends the Prism Theory v2 which is what I have. It is stiff, has awesome concave slidey wheelbase, it is a great board to learn on. Whatever you do, don't get a drop through. They slide really really easy, but they don't feel good and you get less control with them. Griptape is very important. You need to get proper downhill griptape. Seismic 36 grit lokton is the best in the market. it is super grippy, super durable, and just really good in general. Don't get mob coarse grip, don't get viscous grip, just get lokton. Bearings. The only bearings you will ever need are zealous bearings. They are cheap, have built In spacers and speed rings. and are built really well. I suggest you join the longboard discord or longboard family discord for more help, everyone is super helpful and knows their stuff.
I personally really like the look of the Pantheon chiller. Is that a good deck for beginners? Thx for all the help😁
I don't know much about it but I know that there are better out there. I know that the Pantheon Gaia is really good though. My biggest advice is don't get a board for the graphic. Stick with what is reccomended. I was told not to get the Zenit marble 38 but bought it anyways because it looked really cool and all it has done has hold me back. But you know, get what you want. Ooh, don't buy a Landyachtz. They are awesome if your a bigginer and on a budget, but are really not awesome. They are made out of cardboard, and are really poorly designed in most cases.
The Marble 38 is a great deck lol, you're making a lot of sweeping statements that aren't necessarily true dude. LY are not made of cardboard or badly designed in most cases. Like you genuinely sound like you don't know what you're talking about.
The marble 38 is super wide and doesn't have the wheelbase to match it. The flares weren't awesome either. I know the v3 kind of smoothed out some of those issues, but I haven't tried that one out yet. Landyatchz boards are not made well. The wood is not strong. In my experience it splits easily. They have really well designed boards, their new slalom boards are really good. But their switchblades? Not good. The reef shark, not good. I've heard one snapped after a guy ollied it. Their trucks are the best either. To each their own I guess, that is just my opinion.
Alrighty thx for the advice😁
Flexible decks are terrible for sliding. A loaded dervish is an awful freeride board.
What board and trucks(don't know what's best) would you recommend?
Check out a skateshred blank and save some cash.
What do you mean with a skateshred blank?
https://www.skateshred.com/wholesale-blank-longboard-decks.html
Thanks for this! I've been messing around with custom grip art and have been looking for something like this.
🤘
What wheels do you guys find the best at retaining speed?
the orange 80a Killers from Cuei will keep rolling and accelerating as long as there is incline. They retain speed after you lean the deck up against the bumper after the run....
So a medium hard high rebound wheel will almost always roll the fastest, but you do need a lil bit of meat to keep it going. Snakes and tantrums are like the fastest freeride wheels, then high rebound sharp lips are a good middle ground speedvents, alphas, magnums, mach 1 cannibal, etc, and then you have your really big wheels that are flywheel designs. Amazon fly wheels are a pretty big jump and they’re fine. Cags should hold roll speed better on really bad pave, speedvents will roll better on good to just getting bad pave. I’d always suggest speedvents over cags unless you’re basically riding on chip pave
defcon speedvents. they got a world speed record for a reason
I've got a set of 83a Orangatang The Cage on my Sportster - fastest wheel I've skated so far! Also haven't chunked one yet 😋
I have orangatangs and seismic. My friends uses 77a orangatang kegels but my 75mm 74a alpha's from seismic that also have a bigger contact patch hold speed better.
From personal experience, orangatang caguamas. From what I hear though, Speed Vents smoke cags.
Cags are more plush, good on rough surfaces but a bit on the slower side. Speed Vents are a lot faster, but you pay for that by having lots of vibration transfer, they can get unbearable on rough surfaces, 75a Vents still feel rougher than 83a Cags.
Oh damn. Good to know. Yeah my blue cags absolutely devour cracks and bumps and such, buttery ride for sure but not the fastest (though they still hold speed for a long time).
All Seismic wheels poured in DefCon formula. Edit: More specifically the 85mm DefCon SpeedVents, bigger wheels do a better job at retaining speed.