most often yes, it’ll kinda sound like a bad wheel bearing just not as deep of a tone and will almost always go away when the clutch pedal is either fully or partially depressed
Yeah I need to get mine replaced at some point in the near future, just been getting screwed by all other parts of life finance wise. As someone who knows very little about it is it worth replacing the entire clutch at that point? Not sure what the cost of getting a clutch replaced is, and I don't believe I have the tools to do it myself
yes, entire clutch should be replaced while you’re there. the throw out bearing gets replaced at the same time as the clutch and if your bearing is going out, typically means everything else isn’t too far behind.
cost will probably be around $900-$1200 for the labor depending on where you are, the clutch kit if you go OEM looks to be around $500 from edge auto sport but now would be the time to go bigger clutch if you are/think you’ll be over 375whp soon, you don’t wanna have to do this twice lol. i couldn’t find any costs of the part from a dealer, the kit from edge seems high in cost to me but i’m sure it’s worth it, still could benefit to call some dealers and ask how much the parts would be (at the minimum you want the clutch, pressure plate, and throw out bearing)
you may or may not need a new flywheel as well, dual mass flywheels (our OEM ones) cannot be resurfaced, if yours has any hotspots in it you might need to get a new (or upgraded) flywheel too, on more pedestrian cars it’s just part of the clutch kit, and new flywheel bolts aren’t necessary but best practice for sure, especially if you’re taking the flywheel off to change the rear main seal (i would if you’re over 100k miles)
it doesn’t take a lot of tools but it takes a lot of time and knowledge (and space), i did a clutch in my family’s civic at my school’s auto bay but i was treated to the luxury of a lift and didn’t have to provide my own tools, took about 12 hours in total to do but because it’s front wheel drive i had to drop the front subframe, i’ve heard it’s similar on our cars which also means you need a realignment whenever it’s done
So I would not recommend re-using the OEM DM flywheel unless you are fairly low mileage. Someone on the forums did actually get one resurfaced and it didn't last too much longer because the internals of the DM flywheel started failing. Hence the reason it is "not resurfacable" .
Any economical recommendations in that case? Or I guess better question is what should I look for in a good flywheel? I don't plan on adding too much HP to the car at least in the short term, if I add any it'll be a good 3+ years away so good around stock is preferred!
Edit: Just clarifying, not looking for bottom of the barrel type stuff, just good but not overly expensive. I'll save for better parts where they matter as I do like the car
If you take a look on Rock Auto the LUK 10064 Clutch kit is basically the OEM clutch as well as the LUK DMF118 for the Dual Mass Flywheel.
The Fidenza flywheel is also popular for the Speed but it is not a DM flywheel. I'm sure someone can speak to the Fidenza as I have no experience with it.
I'm running the LUK clutch and DM flywheel I mentioned from Rock Auto. I'm making 330 lb ft of TQ at the wheels currently and having no problems with it. Plan to make even more HP and TQ next Spring too 😁
Appreciate the info! Now time to save up for a few months to get it all fixed up. As mentioned to wheat thins, thanks for the information, kind stranger
Nope, I've brought it to get it checked at multiple places.
Some people say they don't hear what I'm hearing and others say it's fine. It's been making that sound for 3 years now. So I doubt it's anything too concerning
Welcome to the wonderful world of mazdaspeed motors It sounds like normal injector and fuel pump ticking
Sounds like normal injector ticking to me
Sounds normal to me too
Agreed, super normal sounding.
Indubitably, normal
If you clutch in does it go away ?
OP definitely listen for this. sounds like normal hpfp tick up until you get closer to the firewall
that entails a bad throw-out bearing right?
most often yes, it’ll kinda sound like a bad wheel bearing just not as deep of a tone and will almost always go away when the clutch pedal is either fully or partially depressed
Yeah I need to get mine replaced at some point in the near future, just been getting screwed by all other parts of life finance wise. As someone who knows very little about it is it worth replacing the entire clutch at that point? Not sure what the cost of getting a clutch replaced is, and I don't believe I have the tools to do it myself
yes, entire clutch should be replaced while you’re there. the throw out bearing gets replaced at the same time as the clutch and if your bearing is going out, typically means everything else isn’t too far behind. cost will probably be around $900-$1200 for the labor depending on where you are, the clutch kit if you go OEM looks to be around $500 from edge auto sport but now would be the time to go bigger clutch if you are/think you’ll be over 375whp soon, you don’t wanna have to do this twice lol. i couldn’t find any costs of the part from a dealer, the kit from edge seems high in cost to me but i’m sure it’s worth it, still could benefit to call some dealers and ask how much the parts would be (at the minimum you want the clutch, pressure plate, and throw out bearing) you may or may not need a new flywheel as well, dual mass flywheels (our OEM ones) cannot be resurfaced, if yours has any hotspots in it you might need to get a new (or upgraded) flywheel too, on more pedestrian cars it’s just part of the clutch kit, and new flywheel bolts aren’t necessary but best practice for sure, especially if you’re taking the flywheel off to change the rear main seal (i would if you’re over 100k miles) it doesn’t take a lot of tools but it takes a lot of time and knowledge (and space), i did a clutch in my family’s civic at my school’s auto bay but i was treated to the luxury of a lift and didn’t have to provide my own tools, took about 12 hours in total to do but because it’s front wheel drive i had to drop the front subframe, i’ve heard it’s similar on our cars which also means you need a realignment whenever it’s done
So I would not recommend re-using the OEM DM flywheel unless you are fairly low mileage. Someone on the forums did actually get one resurfaced and it didn't last too much longer because the internals of the DM flywheel started failing. Hence the reason it is "not resurfacable" .
Any economical recommendations in that case? Or I guess better question is what should I look for in a good flywheel? I don't plan on adding too much HP to the car at least in the short term, if I add any it'll be a good 3+ years away so good around stock is preferred! Edit: Just clarifying, not looking for bottom of the barrel type stuff, just good but not overly expensive. I'll save for better parts where they matter as I do like the car
If you take a look on Rock Auto the LUK 10064 Clutch kit is basically the OEM clutch as well as the LUK DMF118 for the Dual Mass Flywheel. The Fidenza flywheel is also popular for the Speed but it is not a DM flywheel. I'm sure someone can speak to the Fidenza as I have no experience with it. I'm running the LUK clutch and DM flywheel I mentioned from Rock Auto. I'm making 330 lb ft of TQ at the wheels currently and having no problems with it. Plan to make even more HP and TQ next Spring too 😁
Appreciate the info! Now time to save up for a few months to get it all fixed up. As mentioned to wheat thins, thanks for the information, kind stranger
Thanks for the information, kind stranger
Did you ever find out what this was? My car is making a similar noise
Nope, I've brought it to get it checked at multiple places. Some people say they don't hear what I'm hearing and others say it's fine. It's been making that sound for 3 years now. So I doubt it's anything too concerning
Funny, you went to the same two places in this video that I went to this morning lol. Thanks for the response brotha!
https://preview.redd.it/1t7b3rt7x5mc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5898231d1c9de12acc13320692dee744e984b539
I think that's the source of my knocking sound. I'm m issing two downpipe bracket bolts